Prepare to fall hard for this compact city on the coast of the Basque country. Stroll down historical streets lined with belle époque buildings — remnants of its heyday in the 19th century, when it was a favourite destination for British and Spanish royalty — and wander down the promenades of the city’s three urban beaches. But don’t let those sandy stretches distract you from the city’s primary passion: gastronomy. San Sebastian is a mecca for foodies — the city has the second most Michelin stars per capita in the world. And it’s not just the high culinary arts that are celebrated; seemingly every other building in the old town houses a pintxo bar, inside which there are counters heaving with the city’s answer to tapas. These small plates are an obsession and an art form — visitors flock here to indulge in bar crawls, sampling the specialities of each place in a meal that lasts an entire evening.
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What to do
Food will feature high on any itinerary, so you’ll need to work up an appetite. Hike up the winding paths of Monte Urgull, which rise above the old town* at the end of La Concha beach and grant sweeping views over the city from the 12th-century Castillo de la Mota fortress; keep going to the summit to see the Christ statue. Alternatively, book a surf lesson on Zurriola beach, the host of dozens of local, national and international surf competitions. This stretch is surrounded by surf-themed shops, bars and restaurants. Look out too for the Kursaal Convention Centre, a modernist building that resembles two giant sugar cubes and juts out over the beach — it houses a gallery and a concert hall.
Swim in the calmer waters of La Concha, where lifeguards patrol in season, or join the locals in taking an evening stroll along the promenade. At the western end, where the path meets the sea, you’ll find three steel sculptures embedded in the rocks designed by the Basque artist Eduardo Chillida, called Peine del Viento (comb of the wind). If you fancy a fitness challenge, swim to Isla de Santa Clara, the tiny green island in the bay. There are rest platforms on the way to give you a chance to catch your breath — you could also make the crossing with a kayak or stand-up paddleboard.
If an excess of pintxos has left you lethargic, take the funicular railway up to Monte Igueldo. You’ll find an amusement park at the top, replete with fairground attractions.
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Where to stay
San Sebastian has around 30 hotels and 48 guest houses made up of a mix of five-star hotels in palatial 19th-century buildings, country houses declared historical heritage sites, and bijou boutique hotels housing Michelin-starred restaurants.
Only a handful of these properties have beachfront locations, including the grande dame Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra* and the more contemporary Lasala Plaza Hotel* — both of which peer out on to La Concha Bay — and Hotel La Galería* on Ondarreta beach.
Plenty of pads are huddled in and around the old town, presided over by the Hotel María Cristina*, which has been the top choice for royalty and nobility since it first opened in 1912 (it’s worth poking your head into the lobby, even if it’s beyond your budget).
The Gros neighbourhood has a hip, laid-back vibe with a healthy smattering of pintxo bars, craft beer breweries and independent fashion stores. Near here you’ll find the boutique hotel Villa Soro*, which looks more like a country house than an urban hotel. Then there’s the three Michelin-starred Akelarre restaurant*, tucked away in the hillside at Mount Igueldo, which has five boutique rooms; perfect if you don’t want to have to walk far from your table to a bed.
Food and drink
San Sebastian isn’t only the food capital of Spain, it’s now risen in the ranks as a strong contender for the food capital of Europe. High-quality ingredients are a given in most restaurants, and are deftly transformed into culinary creations by chefs at the top of their game. It was here that the Basque culinary revival started with the birth of the “new Basque cuisine”, nueva cocina vasca, in the 1970s. To date the city has a combined 18 Michelin stars, which recognise the work of chefs such Juan Mari Arzak and Andoni Luis Aduriz at their restaurants Arzak and Mugaritz.
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If there’s one fail-safe in this city it’s the pintxo*, and most bars have their own speciality. At Ganbara try the crab tartlets, fried anchovies or the plate of wild mushrooms and foie gras served with runny egg yolk. Book in at the La Cuchara de San Telmo to tear into veal cheeks or foie gras with apple sauce. Your order will come with a zurito (a small glass of beer) or a glass of the local txakoli fizzy wine.
Several craft breweries have sprung up in Gros, the Brooklyn of San Sebastian. Try the microbrewery Mala Gissona’s tap room, or nearby Kañabikaña for a large selection of Spanish and international craft beers. If you have a car it’s also worth exploring the 42 cider houses on the outskirts of the city.
Don’t miss
You’ll hear Basque spoken everywhere and, to find out more about Basque culture, head to the San Telmo museum, the Museum of Basque Society and Citizenship, where you can learn more about historical milestones.
Know before you go
The border of France is only a few miles away, and from there you can drive or get the train to San Sebastian. Or depart from the UK and touch down at Bilbao airport, about an hour’s drive away. The currency is the euro and the main languages are Basque and Spanish. The city gets about 200 days of rain, with most falling in the months of April and November, and the best time to visit is from June to September. Coincide your visit with the San Sebastian film festival in September for a glut of cultural events and celebrity-spotting.
Take me there
Inspired to visit San Sebastian but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui* and Expedia*.
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