In brief
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First impression Cosy and den-like
Staff Flawless, like a creaseless linen shirt
Food & drinks Inevitably expensive
Bed & bath Fun and uplifting
The crowd Dress-down fabulous
In a nutshell A hangout for Hollywood big-hitters
Set the scene
This Art Deco concoction rises above the palm trees of central Hollywood with a rooftop pool with sweeping city views.
What's the story? An independent, owned by Jeff Klein since 2004 (although a sister of the hotel has just opened in LA). He's just finished a big renovation to bring this great example of Art Deco design back to its former glory. Originally designed in 1929 by architect Leland A Bryant as private apartments, it became the place to stay during the golden age of Hollywood with residents such as Truman Capote, Jean Harlow, Clark Gable, Greta Garbo, Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor. John Wayne, whose apartment is now the gym, apparently kept a cow on his balcony so that guests could have fresh milk in their coffee.
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What can we expect from the bedrooms?
Big, big windows for peeking out at the world; elegant but neutral colours. Loved the bathroom, which has wonderful wallpaper designed by illustrator Donald Robertson in metallic gold with black and gold sketches on it inspired by Hollywood.
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How about the food and drink?
A diner for the wealthy is how Jeff Klein described it but the restaurant’s strength is in its dim lighting and discreet service. ‘No photographs,’ it says in big letters at the bottom of the menu. Try the spicy tuna tartare and the fettucine caviar with crème fraîche. Lunch by the pool is all about burgers and salads – breakfast here is a great way to start the day under the Californian blue skies. Mashed avocado with poached eggs is not to be missed.
Anything to say about the service?
Excellent bell boys and reception staff. Maitre d’ Dimitri Dmitrov knows exactly who is who, and who can sit at adjacent tables. Jennifer Aniston comes in four nights out of seven and James Corden and Andrew Lloyd Webber are regulars.
What sort of person stays here?
Hollywood elite who come to gossip and chat and not be bothered by outsiders. The men dress down, the women flash their cash.
What's the neighbourhood scene like?
More built up than Beverly Hills, less sleazy than Hollywood. West Hollywood has some cool concept stores, lots of beauty parlours and teeth-whitening stops. Chateau Marmont is one of the nearest competitors.
Anything else we should know?
There is now a Joanna Vargas spa for red-carpet treatments – her supernova facials leave you glowing. The pool is small but really lovely in a Riviera type of way.
Anything you'd change?
The rooms need a bit more personality.
Worth it – why?
Such a great place to get the vibe of what LA is all about. Watch the celebrity watchers watching the celebrities and you understand why LA is different from any other American city.
By Mary Lussiana
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Address: Sunset Tower Hotel, 8358 Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood, California 90069, USA
Telephone: +1 323 654 7100
Price: Doubles from £331
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This hotel is one of our favourite in the world, and included in our Gold List 2019. Discover more of the best hotels in the world 2019 now.
