19TH IMPRESSION with photos - Architectural Plants
19TH IMPRESSION with photos - Architectural Plants
19TH IMPRESSION with photos - Architectural Plants
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THE NURSERY & THE PLANTS Pages 3 - 16<br />
The original office at Nuthurst<br />
GARDEN DESIGN Pages 17 - 21<br />
Christine Shaw working on garden designs at our Chichester Nursery<br />
PLANTING BY US Page 21p<br />
Instant impact at The Half Moon, Warninglid<br />
CREATIVE MAINTENANCE Pages 22 - 24<br />
Advanced maintenance by Colin, Rob and Noi
A r c h i t e c t u r a l<br />
P L A N T S<br />
1<br />
NUTHURST : HORSHAM : WEST SUSSEX<br />
RH13 : 6LH<br />
Tel : 01403 891772 Fax : 01403 891056<br />
e-mail : enquiries@arc h i t e c t u r a l p l a n t s . c o m<br />
a n d<br />
LIDSEY ROAD NURSERY : WOODGATE CROSSING<br />
CHICHESTER : WEST SUSSEX<br />
PO20 : 3SU<br />
Tel : 01243 545008 Fax : 01243 545009<br />
e - m a i l : chichester@arc h i t e c t u r a l p l a n t s . c o m<br />
w w w.a r c h i t e c t u r a l p l a n t s.c o m<br />
(Not as nice as the catalogue but much more informative)<br />
OPENING HOURS ON BACK COVER AND PAGE 36<br />
Inside Front : A PANORAMA OF THE NUTHURST NURSERY<br />
Cover by Paul Cox<br />
Inside Back : A PANORAMA OF THE CHICHESTER NURSERY<br />
Cover by Paul Cox<br />
Back Cover : MAP : How to find the Nurseries, Opening Hours etc<br />
Page 2 : An Introduction<br />
Page 3 : The <strong>Plants</strong> in Alphabetical Order <strong>with</strong> Brief<br />
Descriptions Designed to Capture the Flavour of the<br />
<strong>Plants</strong><br />
Page 16 : LARGE SPECIMEN PLANTS - CARE NOTES<br />
Page 17 : GARDEN DESIGN<br />
Page 21 : PLANTING BY US<br />
Page 22 : CREATIVE MAINTENANCE<br />
Page 25 : A Bibliography<br />
Page 26 : A Short Course on Microclimatology<br />
Pigeon Holes - what to grow where in 34 categories<br />
Bamboos : Climbers : Ferns : Palms : Yuccas<br />
Page 33 : MISCELLANEOUS<br />
<strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong> Gift Vouchers<br />
The <strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong> Barrow<br />
Japanese Ladders & Shaping Tools<br />
Various Pots<br />
Delivery<br />
Mail Order by City Link Express Ltd<br />
Hire a Van<br />
Care Notes<br />
Garden Design etc.<br />
Nice Cup of Tea / Espresso / Apple<br />
Page 35 : : Where to Lunch / Navigation Notes / How to Find Us<br />
Page 36 : Opening Hours - Both Nurseries / Prices & Pot Sizes<br />
Please plough through as much of this catalogue as you can bear to<br />
before visiting. It's full of well considered information about<br />
<strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong> and will do something to prepare you for the<br />
experience. Consult the map on the back of this catalogue and use<br />
the Navigation Notes on page 35
2<br />
Istarted this business 20 years ago in a fit of pique. I was furious and<br />
perplexed that I couldn’t buy the plants that I’d fallen in love <strong>with</strong> and<br />
was determined to do something about it. To my mind, these plants all<br />
had something in common - they were highly sculptural and tremendously<br />
green. To quote from our first catalogue : “In the jargon of horticulture,<br />
these are known as 'architectural plants'. Not because they belong in buildings<br />
but because the plants themselves have their own 'architecture' - strong,<br />
sometimes spectacular, shapes which bring a distinctive year-round presence<br />
to a garden.”<br />
In the spring of 1990 we launched ourselves onto an unsuspecting and<br />
bemused British public, <strong>with</strong>out the faintest idea as to whether anyone<br />
else shared our passion for these peculiar plants.<br />
Since then we've discovered, to our relief, that we weren't the only<br />
ones. The business has prospered and we've learned an awful lot<br />
about the plants, how to use them, who buys them and why.<br />
WAS OUR REPUTATION A LOTTERY?<br />
Being new to the industry (previously, I designed and made furniture) I<br />
was soon questioning the fundamental premise behind running a<br />
nursery. Does the accepted business model actually work? Not really. I’d<br />
noticed how customers would say - “I bought some plants off you a year<br />
ago and they’ve all done well so I’m coming back to buy more”. Jolly nice<br />
of them but I feared a misunderstanding. They thought the reason the<br />
plants had done well was because we’re a fine nursery selling fine plants.<br />
Yes indeed but the main reason for the plants’ success is the skill of the<br />
gardener. They were the right plants in the right place and they were<br />
treated well . It wasn’t a giant step to realise the reverse was likely.<br />
“None of the plants I bought have done well, I’m not going back there<br />
again”. Wrong conclusion again. Wrong plants in the wrong place, poorly<br />
treated.<br />
So, <strong>with</strong> the traditional business model, one is in danger of not being in<br />
control of one’s reputation and that’s a problem that had to be<br />
addressed. How? We decided to attack on two fronts.<br />
1. INFORM WITH GREATER CONFIDENCE<br />
We became bossy. Nice bossy, entertaining bossy, amusing bossy. Not<br />
bitter, twisted and rancorous bossy. Oh no. Can you force a<br />
customer to listen to your advice when they’re quite obviously determined<br />
not to? We used to think not - but we were wrong. With confidence,<br />
emphasis, humour and intelligence we discovered we could.<br />
Here’s my favourite story on the subject : Five years ago I issued an<br />
edict to all sales staff - “Please be extremely circumspect about<br />
selling Italian Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) - they’re very high<br />
maintenance and have prima donna-ish tendencies and customers must<br />
be warned”. Three years ago a chap came in and was clearly unhappy<br />
about the performance of the two trees that he’d bought since I’d issued<br />
the edict. I launched into my standard rant on the subject, issuing<br />
warnings about all their evil ways and on completion I asked : “But surely<br />
you were told all that when you bought them?” His reply was wonderful,<br />
revealing and incredibly helpful : “Yes. But not like that”. Ah! Be very<br />
confident, be very emphatic, be a little bit mad. It works.<br />
2. DO IT FOR YOU -<br />
GARDEN DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION & MAINTENANCE<br />
We set up a new side of the business where we do it for you - design<br />
your garden, build your garden and, if necessary, maintain your<br />
garden too. In this - the most most heavily revamped catalogue for 20<br />
years - you’ll find an enormous emphasis on this side of our business.<br />
‘Doing it for you’ allows us to create a closer relationship <strong>with</strong> our<br />
customers which is good. The garden will be more successful, the plants<br />
will be happier, we will be happier and most importantly, you the<br />
customer will be happier.<br />
Angus White<br />
January 2011<br />
THAT LAST PARAGRAPH, TO US, IS THE FUTURE.<br />
Information on the procedure begins on page 19...
WE USE 3 DIFFERENT COLOURED LABELS TO GIVE AN<br />
INSTANT INDICATION OF A PLANTS' FROST HARDINESS<br />
(Think of Traffic Lights)<br />
IF IT HAS A GREEN LABEL<br />
Hardy anywhere in Britain below approximately 1,000 ft (300 m)<br />
IF IT HAS AN AMBER LABEL<br />
Hardy in the Home Counties if sensibly sited<br />
(avoiding severe frost pockets, for example).<br />
Many Amber Labelled <strong>Plants</strong> are from cuttings from well established<br />
plants that have survived many harsh winters in the South-East.<br />
IF IT HAS A RED LABEL<br />
Hardy in Atlantic Seaboard gardens, The Channel Islands, gardens<br />
in Central London and other large cities.<br />
In this Catalogue we have listed:<br />
118 plants <strong>with</strong> GREEN labels<br />
83 plants <strong>with</strong> AMBER labels<br />
34 plants <strong>with</strong> RED labels<br />
We're always on hand to give advice about plants and their frost hardiness,<br />
Please remember that these coloured labels are only a rough guide.<br />
(General point about plant hardiness : The commonly held belief that<br />
it's better to 'plant small', is true <strong>with</strong> herbaceous plants, but not necessarily<br />
true <strong>with</strong> woody plants. They need some wood on them to survive<br />
severe cold - so plants of marginal hardiness, in very cold areas, should<br />
really be planted LARGER, rather than SMALLER, whenever possible)<br />
Acacia dealbata red<br />
Mimosa. Ferny leaves and masses of yellow flowers in spring. Red label but<br />
grows fast and survives most winters anywhere. Hardy in London. To 25 ft.<br />
Acacia pravissima amber<br />
Oven's Wattle. Very distinctive small, weeping, evergreen tree (to 20 ft) <strong>with</strong><br />
curious little triangular leaves. Masses of fragrant yellow flowers in spring.<br />
Acanthus mollis green<br />
Bear's Breeches or Big Spinach. With the famous architectural leaf. An<br />
herbaceous plant <strong>with</strong> large very shiny dark green leaves. Up to 4 ft.<br />
Acorus gramineus 'variegata' green<br />
Variegated low growing evergreen grassy thing for growing right at the edge<br />
of (or even in) the pond. Dense, pretty and very hardy.<br />
3<br />
The Garden Design & Construction Office at Nuthurst
4<br />
Aeonium arboreum 'Magnificum' red<br />
Aeoniums are exotic succulents from Africa - hardy west of Penzance. Not<br />
sure we've got the name right but we think it's pretty magnificum. 1 ft x 1 ft.<br />
Aeonium 'Schwarzkopf' red<br />
This is the much sought after one that remains very deep purple, almost<br />
black, all through the year. Slow growing to about 18 in. Very happy in a pot.<br />
Agapanthus africanus red<br />
Piles of evergreen, strap-like leaves and ball-like deep blue or white flowers<br />
on 4 ft stems. Perfect for terracotta pots. Nearly hardy.<br />
Agave americana red<br />
Familiar to all visitors to the Mediterranean - a very spiky statement for<br />
mild seaside gardens. To about 3 ft tall, 3 ft across. Almost hardy when large.<br />
Agave americana medio-picta alba red<br />
As above but much smaller and slower growing, <strong>with</strong> a wide white stripe<br />
down the middle of the leaves. Not very hardy - but who cares?<br />
Agave americana variegata red<br />
Yellow stripes down the sides of the leaf, smaller than the non-variegated<br />
one, bigger than the one <strong>with</strong> the white stripe. Brilliant in a terracotta pot.<br />
Albizia julibrissin rosea green<br />
Pink Sirris or Silk Tree. Like a hardy Mimosa <strong>with</strong> huge bi-pinnate leaves.<br />
Deciduous. Very exotic, needs a hot spot to grow well. To about 15 ft.<br />
Aloe aristata amber<br />
The hardiest of the African Aloes - forms a mat of exotic little fleshy leafed<br />
rosettes. Orangey-red flower spikes that last for weeks and weeks.<br />
Aloe striatula amber<br />
A remarkable discovery. An upright, branching aloe <strong>with</strong> yellow candle-like<br />
flowers that really grows outside in Nuthurst. Grows to about 3ft x 3ft.<br />
Aralia elata green<br />
The Japanese Angelica Tree. Huge bi-pinnate leaves make it extremely<br />
architectural. Terribly hardy but unfortunately deciduous. To about 10 ft.<br />
Araucaria araucana green<br />
Monkey Puzzle Tree. A stunningly different tree - highly effective if well<br />
placed. It'll grow to 60 ft eventually. A grove is what is needed. Very hardy.<br />
Araucaria heterophylla red<br />
Norfolk Island Pine. A stack of inverted triangles of ever decreasing size.<br />
Though tender, a remarkably successful, easy and shapely plant for in-doors.<br />
Arbutus andrachnoides amber<br />
Red Barked Strawberry Tree. Beautiful evergreen (20 ft) <strong>with</strong> everything.<br />
Fast growing, winter flowering and the most remarkable bark. ESSENTIAL<br />
Arbutus glandulosa amber<br />
Mexican Strawberry Tree. Smooth coppery bark, autumn flowering, hardy in<br />
Nuthurst for 10 years (now 12 ft). Beautiful shape. Lime tolerance unknown.<br />
Arundo donax green<br />
Spanish Reed. A vigorous grass to 10 ft or more. Ubiquitous in the South of<br />
France, Spain and Italy. Brown in winter but still ESSENTIAL.<br />
Arundo donax variegata amber<br />
Variegated Spanish Reed. Huge green and white striped leaves on 6 ft stems -<br />
or taller in mild gardens. Hardiest on clay, rather than sandy soil.<br />
Aspidistra elatior red<br />
Cast Iron Plant. Bursting leafy evergreen thing that thrives on neglect. House<br />
plant, shade plant, garden plant in London and other warm regions. 3ft.<br />
Asplenium scolopendrium green<br />
Hart's Tongue Fern. A familiar evergreen British native <strong>with</strong> bright green<br />
entire fronds to 2 ft. OK on acid soil, but loves very alkaline soil (chalk).<br />
Astelia chathamica amber<br />
Soft, silvery blue, sword shaped leaves to 4 ft. Wonderful Phormium<br />
lookalikes, good in shade or sun. Will regrow well if cut back by frost.<br />
Tea, Coffee and Consultation at Nuthurst<br />
Astelia nervosa green<br />
Not as silvery as the one above and not as big either - but much hardier and<br />
proving excellent in dense and dry shade. Astelias grow as epiphytes in N.Z....<br />
Aucuba japonica crassifolia green<br />
Big and very shiny leaves - somewhere between a holly and an oak. Very<br />
successful vigorous evergreen that seems happiest in shade. To 8 ft.<br />
Aucuba japonica crotonifolia green<br />
Spotted Laurel. Deeply unfashionable due to over use in the past, it’s actually<br />
a fine, architectural landscape plant - i.e. good when viewed from afar.
5<br />
Aucuba japonica longifolia green<br />
A useful, hardy, evergreen shrub that tolerates shade, drought and neglect to<br />
a ridiculous extent. To 6 ft.<br />
Azara microphylla orange<br />
Tiny round shiny evergreen leaves and sweet vanilla scented flowers in<br />
February/March. Another lovely little tree from Chile that loves our climate.<br />
Azalea japonica green<br />
A small leafed evergreen - vital in your clipped karikomi Japanese garden. We<br />
sell several forms that flower in a variety of garish hues.<br />
Baccharis patagonica green<br />
Unusual little shrub <strong>with</strong> tiny shiny evergreen leaves, proving itself incredibly<br />
tough. According to Christine, flowers smell like freshly baked fairy cakes(??)<br />
Beschorneria yuccoides amber<br />
A Yucca lookalike <strong>with</strong> outrageous great red flower spikes in early summer.<br />
Not desperately hardy but ESSENTIAL in the milder garden.<br />
Betula jacquemontii green<br />
Very White Barked Himalayan Birch. Mostly multistemmed. At their best<br />
in proximity to dark green clipped foliage for that ‘Holland Park’ look.<br />
Home grown flowering Myrtle Niwaki at Chichester<br />
Blechnum chilense green<br />
Seersucker Fern from South America. By far the most distinctive of our few<br />
reliably hardy evergreen ferns. Looks like seersucker, grows to 3 ft or more.<br />
Blechnum spicant green<br />
The Hard or Deer Fern. A familiar evergreen British native fern <strong>with</strong> pinnate<br />
fronds to 2 ft long. Lime hater.<br />
Butia capitata red<br />
The Jelly Palm. A proper Palm Tree from Argentina - known to be perfectly<br />
hardy west of Torquay. Not known by enough people ! How about Islington?<br />
Buxus sempervirens green<br />
Box Topiary. We do Balls, Cones, Pyramids and Cubes and we do them very<br />
well. Nothing cutting edge here, just good, traditional stuff and lots of it.<br />
Callistemon subulatus amber<br />
Bottle Brush - the hardiest and one of the best. Evergreen shrub <strong>with</strong> highly<br />
distinctive arching branches and masses of crimson 'bottle brush' flowers.<br />
Camellia japonica green<br />
We usually have a stock of bush and half standard Camellias <strong>with</strong> either pure<br />
white or dark red flowers.<br />
Canna indica red<br />
Exotic banana-like herbaceous plant to about 5 ft, bright red and yellow<br />
flowers in late summer, beloved by French roundabout designers. ESSENTIAL.<br />
Canna iridiflora red<br />
A huger version of the above for summer bedding or pot, <strong>with</strong> shocking pink<br />
flowers. 8 ft in a year - hardy in mild areas. Screaming exotica.<br />
Canna coccinea red<br />
Green leaves and orange flowers. Cannas are best dug up in autumn<br />
and bunged under a bench for the winter. Plant out in early April.<br />
Carpobrotus edulis red<br />
Mesembryanthemum, Ice Plant. Fleshy leafed ground cover. For salt<br />
resistance, the next best thing to bladder-wrack. ESSENTIAL by the sea.<br />
Catalpa ‘Bungea’ green<br />
Dwarf Indian Bean Tree. Neat, compact deciduous, rounded shrub, grafted<br />
onto a 6 ft trunk. Very formal. Popular on the continent, not so here. Why?!<br />
Ceanothus arboreus amber<br />
Californian Lilac. Small evergreen tree for a sheltered spot. Covered in huge<br />
quantities of blue flowers in early summer. Spectacularly fast growing. 12 ft.
6<br />
Ceanothus azureus 'Concha' green<br />
Left alone, a bit of a blob - but, judicious pruning can make it into a beautiful<br />
little weeping tree. Some plants have architecture thrust upon them...<br />
Chamaerops humilis amber<br />
Dwarf Palm, surprisingly hardy if well sited. The only native European palm.<br />
Better than Trachycarpus in a windy spot. To about 5ft x 5ft. ESSENTIAL.<br />
Choisya ternata green<br />
Mexican Orange Blossom. Well known evergreen shrub <strong>with</strong> shiny leaves, and<br />
a pedestrian reputation. But have you ever tried clipping it? Unrecognisable.<br />
Cistus lusitanicus 'Decumbens' amber<br />
Essential in your Mediterranean bits <strong>with</strong> its deliciously aromatic leaves.<br />
Masses of white flowers and growing in low spreading Japanesey mounds.<br />
Cistus ladanifer ‘Paladin’ amber<br />
More upright than above <strong>with</strong> masses of white flowers but it’s the exquisite<br />
stickiness and powerful aroma that makes this so special.<br />
Clematis armandii green<br />
The best known evergreen one. Very vigorous climber <strong>with</strong> fragrant white<br />
flowers in the spring. Easy to grow, very exotic.<br />
Clematis cirrhosa green<br />
Less vigorous than above. Delicate cut leaves and whitish bell like flowers<br />
through the winter. All Clematis are busy at the top and thin at the bottom.<br />
Colletia armata green<br />
Small evergreen tree halfway between a Tree Heath and a pile of barbed wire.<br />
Butterflies flock to its sweet almond scented flowers. Can you live <strong>with</strong>out it?<br />
Colocasia ‘Black Magic’ red<br />
Black Leafed Taro. A giant exotic vegetable <strong>with</strong> huge dark purple (rather<br />
than black) leaves for a pot and a greenhouse in the winter.<br />
Cordyline australis red<br />
Cabbage Tree, Torquay Palm... It's not a palm, doesn't look anything like a<br />
cabbage and it comes from New Zealand (not Torquay) anyway. ESSENTIAL.<br />
Cordyline australis 'Albertii' red<br />
A remarkable Cordyline <strong>with</strong> a head of sword shaped green leaves variegated<br />
red and cream. Frost tender, easy in a pot, slow growing and well behaved.<br />
Cordyline indivisa amber<br />
Mountain Cabbage Tree. All exoticists are in love <strong>with</strong> this plant. However,<br />
its voluptuousness is matched only by its temperamentalness. Ask for details!<br />
Corokia X virgata amber<br />
An unusual little wiry evergreen shrub <strong>with</strong> tiny leaves from New Zealand.<br />
Tiny yellow flowers in May followed by bright orange fruits.<br />
Cortaderia richardii green<br />
Toe-Toe (pronounced Toy-Toy) from N.Z. Similar to pampas grass (much<br />
greener in the winter), a little smaller, and summer flowering. Very hardy.<br />
Cortaderia sellowiana 'pumila' green<br />
Dwarf Pampas Grass from the land of the Gauchos. Clumps growing to 4 ft<br />
<strong>with</strong> 6 ft white flower plumes. A little more manageable than real Pampas.<br />
The Jetty at Nuthurst<br />
Crocosmia 'Lucifer' green<br />
Montbretia. To 3 ft <strong>with</strong> strong reddy orange flower spikes in late summer.<br />
For sun or shade, dies down in winter.<br />
Cryptomeria japonica ‘Globosa Nana’ green<br />
Delicious mounds of neat, tight, dark, evergreen foliage from Japan. Slow<br />
growing, best in some shade and slightly temperamental.<br />
Cupressus sempervirens 'Pyramidalis' green<br />
A neat and narrow form of the Italian Cypress. Plant <strong>with</strong> Pinus pinea for an<br />
immediate evocation of the Med. Be warned though - it’s high maintenance.<br />
Cycas revoluta red<br />
Japanese Cycad or Sago Palm. Somewhere between a Tree Fern and a Palm<br />
Tree. Hardy in a few warm spots, especially central London. Good in a pot.<br />
Cynara cardunculus green<br />
Cardoon. Near relative, but larger version of, the artichoke <strong>with</strong> huge silvery<br />
leaves to 4 ft long. Optional 8 ft stalks <strong>with</strong> thistle-like flowers<br />
Cyperus alternifolius amber<br />
Dwarf (3-4 ft) version of Papyrus - like a clump of miniature Palm Trees.<br />
Perfect for the conservatory - it can't be over watered!
Danae racemosa green<br />
Alexandrian Laurel. Very desirable hardy evergreen ground cover for those<br />
dark and difficult bits. Tolerates dry ground, red berries in autumn.<br />
Daphne odora 'Aureomarginata' green<br />
A not-very-architectural shrub <strong>with</strong> variegated evergreen leaves. Deliciously<br />
smelly flowers in late winter make it virtually Essential.<br />
Daphniphyllum macropodum green<br />
Tough as old boots but much more exotic. Small, rare evergreen tree <strong>with</strong><br />
domed head, leaves hanging, purple new growth, red stalks. A favourite.<br />
Dasylirion acrotrichum amber<br />
A great spherical mass of thin green leaves that cleverly bridges the gap<br />
between exotica and topiary. Remarkable, easy and beautiful. 3ft x 3ft.<br />
Dianella tasmanica amber<br />
Bit like a miniature phormium; soft but spiky looking, <strong>with</strong> leaves to 3 ft.<br />
Violet flowers on 2ft stems followed by dark blue berries.<br />
Dicksonia antarctica red<br />
Tasmanian Tree fern. Utter beauty for shady conservatories and mild gardens<br />
(including 0207 Land). Our most universally revered plant. Gosh.<br />
Drimys winteri amber<br />
Winter's Bark. A highly reliable little evergreen tree from South America <strong>with</strong><br />
masses of white flowers and an upright, multi-stemmed habit. To 20 ft.<br />
Dryopteris erythrosora green<br />
Japanese Shield Fern. Deciduous fern <strong>with</strong> coppery new fronds in spring and<br />
early summer - all turning green later. Can grow to 3ft x 3ft.<br />
Echeveria glauca red<br />
Pale blue rosettes of succulent leaves 8 in. across <strong>with</strong> little red and orange<br />
flowers that last for ages. No business surviving in Sussex - but they do!<br />
Echium fastuosum red<br />
A shrubby Echium <strong>with</strong> greyish leaves and deep blue flowers in early summer<br />
for very mild gardens only. Echiums not happy in pots unless dustbin sized.<br />
Echium pininiana red<br />
Grow this and die happy. The Tree Echium from La Palma Island is another<br />
example of screaming exotica. Triennial to 8 ft <strong>with</strong> 12 ft flowers.<br />
Eleagnus ebbingei green<br />
Frost, salt and wind hardy evergreen <strong>with</strong> silver leaves and nice little smelly<br />
white flowers. Often seen as a hedge, we grow it as a small tree.<br />
Embothrium lanceolatum amber<br />
Chilean Fire Bush. Small semi-evergreen tree from South America famous for<br />
its amazing red floral display in May and June. Needs a poor acid soil.<br />
Ephedra green<br />
We're not sure of the species but we know it's hardy and very 'different'<br />
W.J.Bean, he say, quote, "charming evergreen patches", unquote. Rare.<br />
Equisetum camtschatense green<br />
Common Horsetail. Meerkat Tails. Perpendicular marshy stuff that grows to<br />
4ft. Deciduous, needs lots of water and may need controlling...<br />
Eriobotrya deflexa ‘Coppertone’ amber<br />
Bronze Loquat. Half Loquat / half Photinia. Copper coloured young growth.<br />
Big smelly pink flowers in spring. Grow as a bush or a small tree<br />
Eriobotrya japonica amber<br />
Loquat. The best and easiest large leafed evergreen small tree for British<br />
gardens. Pale green shuttlecocks, spring and autumn. To 12 ft. ESSENTIAL.<br />
Eryngium agavifolium green<br />
A yucca-ish herbaceous perennial from Argentina <strong>with</strong> leaves to 2 ft long and<br />
flower heads like 'big green thimbles on short stalks'. Thank you Christine.<br />
Eryngium horridum amber<br />
It's not horrid at all. It's a little known Puya lookalike for your spiky areas.<br />
Easy to grow and more evergreen than most Eryngiums. Clumps 5 ft across.<br />
7<br />
Individual trees in the ground can be viewed in the Stock Field
8<br />
Eryngium pandanifolium amber<br />
Lots of long thin evergreen leaves to 4 ft in upright rosettes. Typical thistly<br />
Eryngium flower spikes to 8 ft. A rare plant from South America.<br />
Escallonia resinosa green<br />
Escallonia vindaloo. Vigorous evergreen shrub or small tree from Chile <strong>with</strong><br />
lots of white flowers. The plant exudes a wonderful curry smell. Very hardy.<br />
Eucalyptus aggregata green<br />
Densest and greenest of all the hardy gum trees. Very desirable yet rare in<br />
cultivation. Seems perfectly hardy. Has grown to 20 ft in six years here.<br />
Eucalyptus debeuzevillei green<br />
The Jounama Snow Gum. Small (to 25 ft), hardy and beautiful <strong>with</strong> a rather<br />
difficult name. Similar to E. niphofila but <strong>with</strong> a whiter bloom to its branches.<br />
Eucalyptus glaucescens green<br />
Tingiringi Gum. Masses of round silvery leaves when young - maintained by<br />
annual stooling. Substantial (40 ft) tree <strong>with</strong> shiny-sickle shaped leaves.<br />
The Greenhouse at Nuthurst<br />
Eucomis bicolor amber<br />
Pineapple Lily. Big green leafy exotic rosette (to 3ft across) <strong>with</strong> a difficult to<br />
describe, greeny-white, 3ft flower spike. Very pineapple-like.<br />
Eucryphia X nymansensis amber<br />
An evergreen columnar tree from Chile. Covered in white flowers in late<br />
summer. Unlike most Eucryphias, happy on limey soil. Grows to about 30 ft.<br />
Eugenia myrtifolia red<br />
Lilly-Pilly. A tender Australian that lasts better in a pot for longer than<br />
anything else. Reddish new leaves, white flowers and magenta fruits. A beaut.<br />
Euonymus fortunei 'Kewensis' green<br />
A mat of tiny evergreen leaves. Normally prostrate, it'll scramble over almost<br />
anything. Best in shade, it's a ground cover, fence cover, shed cover...<br />
Euonymus japonicus amber<br />
A beautiful, dense, glossy evergreen blob that even looks good in windbattered<br />
sea-side gardens. Good for clipping and an early harbinger of spring.<br />
Euphorbia mellifera amber<br />
Honey Spurge for sun or shade, grows to 8 ft. Luminous green leaves, flowers<br />
smell like honey. The best Euphorbia in the world. Evergreen and ESSENTIAL.<br />
Euphorbia wulfenii green<br />
A hardy evergreen (everblueish) shrub to 4 ft. Deservedly well known<br />
and useful. Easy to grow but like all Euphorbias, best in the ground (not a pot)<br />
Fargesia murieliae green<br />
Polite Bamboo. Forms neat, tight clumps and the whole thing takes on a<br />
kind of mushroom shape after a few years. Never spreads, grows to 10 ft.<br />
Fascicularia bicolor amber<br />
The hardiest Bromeliad - related to and looking like a pineapple, it'll grow<br />
anywhere - full sun, dense shade or, best of all, up a tree. Ask for details.<br />
Fascicularia pitcairniifolia red<br />
Another pineapple relative - bigger and better but much less frost hardy.<br />
Brilliant in a pot, extraordinary red and blue flowers like a Mandrill's bottom.<br />
Fatshedera lizei green<br />
Fat-headed Lizzie. An Ivy and Fatsia cross, which is exactly what it looks<br />
like. Splendid jungly climbing scrambling thing for shade. Evergreen and easy.<br />
Fatsia japonica green<br />
Fig-Leafed Palm or False Castor Oil Plant. Graphic descriptions for an old<br />
favourite for dark corners, inside or out. Huge, shiny, lobey leaves. To 8 ft.<br />
Ficus carica green<br />
Common Fig. Hardy, architectural, deciduous and, if in the right spot,<br />
delicious. Enormous lobey leaves that smell as good as the fruit itself.<br />
Fremontodendron 'California Glory' amber<br />
Evergreen wall shrub <strong>with</strong> masses of big yellow buttercup flowers<br />
throughout the summer. Extraordinarily fast growing - 15 ft in 3 years.<br />
Furcraea longaeva red<br />
Huge user-friendly Yucca lookalike for mild gardens or conservatory. Very<br />
important 15 ft flower that does some odd things - ask for riveting details.
Genista aetnensis green<br />
Mount Etna Broom. One of the most distinctive small trees that can be grown<br />
in Britain. Elegant and easy, masses of yellow flowers in July. ESSENTIAL.<br />
Geranium maderense red<br />
Loves being in a pot. Compact, symmetrical shape <strong>with</strong> deeply cut leaves and<br />
loud magenta flowers. Grows to 3 ft across and 2 ft tall. Very seductive.<br />
Grevillea rosmarinifolia amber<br />
For sunny sites on poor acid soil, an exotic shrub (to 5 ft) from Down Under.<br />
Masses of crimson flowers in mid summer. Excellent in the conservatory.<br />
Griselinia littoralis amber<br />
A fleshy, apple-green leafed, evergreen shrub or small tree from N.Z. Very salt<br />
resistant, very distinctive and remarkably hardy. ESSENTIAL.<br />
Gunnera manicata green<br />
Giant Rhubarb (Highly descriptive). Great brute of a thing <strong>with</strong> monster leaves<br />
6 ft across in wet and shady places. ‚÷¡º in winter (total collapse situation)<br />
Hebe parviflora angustifolia (a.k.a. H. stenophylla) green<br />
Simply the most useful and one of the prettiest plants in the nursery. Happy<br />
anywhere - including dry shade where nothing else will grow. To 6ft.<br />
Hebe rakaiensis green<br />
Beautiful little pale green mounds <strong>with</strong> tiny evergreen leaves. An unauthentic<br />
but extremely convincing contribution to any Japanese garden. To 3ft max.<br />
Hedera canariensis green<br />
Canary Island Ivy. A huge shiny-leafed species that's hardy and easy. Splendid<br />
vigorous ground cover or climber. Very jungly.<br />
Hedera helix 'Très Coupé' green<br />
This Ivy's really neat. It grows in a very dense mat, quite slowly and has the<br />
tiniest leaves of any Ivy you've ever seen. Beautiful plant <strong>with</strong> many uses.<br />
Hedychium coccineum 'Tara' amber<br />
The best 'all round' Ginger Lily, we now micropropagate it. Jungly leaves to<br />
5ft <strong>with</strong> strong orange, mildly fragrant, flowers in September. Root hardy.<br />
Hedychium forrestii amber<br />
The biggest, the hardiest and the most vigorous of the Ginger Lilies. Grows<br />
to 6ft <strong>with</strong> white flowers in August and September.<br />
Hedychium gardnerianum red<br />
The most exotic of the Ginger Lilies <strong>with</strong> its broad leaves and deliciously<br />
fragrant yellow flowers. Hardy in mild gardens. Pretty happy in a pot.<br />
Helleborus foetidus green<br />
The charmingly entitled 'Stinking Hellebore'. Lovely small evergreen (to 2ft)<br />
for shady places. Looks good all winter, loves chalk.<br />
Holboellia latifolia amber<br />
A vigorous evergreen climber <strong>with</strong> deliciously fragrant greenish-white flowers<br />
in March. It bears edible fruit resembling well battered testicles.<br />
Hydrangea seemannii amber<br />
Little known evergreen, self clinging climber from Mexico. Similar to<br />
H.serratifolia but more vigorous <strong>with</strong> larger leaves. Ideal for London.<br />
Ilex aquifolium green<br />
English Holly. We have a shifting population of green and variegated holly<br />
topiary - mop-heads, cones and blobs. Fairly tolerant of being containerised.<br />
Ilex crenata green<br />
Japanese Holly. We have imported Japanese Niwaki - which we’re extremely<br />
bossy about - and blobs, perfect for karikomi work to go <strong>with</strong> Azaleas.<br />
Ilex perado platyphylla amber<br />
Huge, shiny, evergreen leaves on this small but vigorous Holly from the<br />
Canaries. More accommodating to growing in a pot than anything else - ever!<br />
Iris confusa amber<br />
The most exotic looking Iris by far. Great sprays of palmy, bambooey leaves<br />
on the end of 2 or 3 ft stems. Small white flowers in midsummer.<br />
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The Jetty from below
10<br />
Iris japonica variegata amber<br />
It sometimes grows on roofs. As this suggests, it's pretty drought tolerant.<br />
Nice little hardy, evergreen, variegated Iris <strong>with</strong> white and lilac flower spikes.<br />
Jovellana violacea amber<br />
A little Chilean shrub <strong>with</strong> pale violet flowers and soft little leaves that does<br />
best in shade. Must be kept moist.<br />
Jubaea chilensis amber<br />
Chilean Wine Palm. A magnificent hardy palm tree from Chile. And the ‘but’?<br />
It’s spectacularly slow growing. So we sell big ones <strong>with</strong> big price tags.<br />
Kniphofia caulescens green<br />
Red Hot Poker. Fleshy bluey leafy rosettes on short fat grey trunks, red and<br />
yellow pokers in autumn. Very easy, very hardy, one of the best for foliage.<br />
Kniphofia northiae green<br />
If it's sunny, damp and rich, you'll be stunned, shocked and astonished by its<br />
6 ft fleshy leaves in gigantic rosettes. Flower spike is dark orange to 3ft.<br />
Kniphofia uvaria nobilis green<br />
Another Poker. Good foliage and big orangey red flower spikes in late<br />
summer. The best flowering Kniphofia for September/October. (We think)<br />
Lampranthus spectabilis amber<br />
The hardiest succulent Mesembryanthemum we can find. Trailing ground<br />
cover <strong>with</strong> loud cerise flowers for your succulent areas. Very Tresco.<br />
Laurus nobilis angustifolia green<br />
The Narrow Leafed Bay Tree. Much prettier and hardier than the common one<br />
you put in stews. Aromatic and salt resistant, a beautiful little tree.<br />
Libertia formosa amber<br />
Like a little Phormium <strong>with</strong> white orchid-like flower spikes. Grows to about<br />
3 ft. Does well in a pot, flowers for weeks and weeks.<br />
Ligustrum delavayi amber<br />
Giant lollipops. Tiny leafed evergreen that we sell as 5 ft standards.<br />
An inexpensive - well, relatively inexpensive - alternative to standard box.<br />
Ligustrum lucidum green<br />
Chinese Cloud Tree. One of our very best landscape trees. Large leafed<br />
evergreen, fast growing, domed head, covered in white flowers. To about 25 ft.<br />
Lithocarpus edulis amber<br />
Large and glossy, evergreen and exotic. Slow growing and excellent in dark<br />
and difficult spots. A rare Japanese evergreen Oak. Easy, but a lime hater.<br />
Lobelia tupa amber<br />
"Magnificent plant..... anything less like the conventional bedding lobelia<br />
could not be imagined". G.S.Thomas. Big and herby, red flowers.<br />
Lomatia ferruginea amber<br />
An utterly beautiful member of the exotic Protea family. Large, evergreen,<br />
ferny leaves. ESSENTIAL if you have poor acid soil and a fairly open site.<br />
Lomatia myricoides amber<br />
Possibly the hardiest and certainly one of the most architectural of the Protea<br />
family. Long thin leaves, white flowers in July. Grows to about 6 ft.<br />
The Office at Chichester<br />
Lonicera nitida ‘Elegans’ green<br />
Common but incredibly useful evergreen <strong>with</strong> tiny leaves for highly reliable<br />
small hedges and clipped work. Fast growing and always attractively priced.<br />
Luzula sylvatica 'Marginata' green<br />
Woodrush. Evergreen, spreading, grassy thing <strong>with</strong> fresh green leaves to 1 ft.<br />
long. Hardy, pretty and very useful. Best in damp, fairly shady places.<br />
Lyonothamnus floribundus aspleniifolius amber<br />
Translated: Santa Cruz Ironwood Tree. Piles of ferny evergreen leaves and<br />
beautiful red stringy bark. Totally fabulous plant. Surprisingly hardy. To 20 ft.
Magnolia delavayi amber<br />
Huge evergreen leaves. Mere words cannot do this wonderful Chinese tree<br />
justice - and a lime lover! Always in short supply.<br />
Magnolia grandiflora green<br />
Another ESSENTIAL evergreen tree. Big glossy leaves, huge smelly white<br />
flowers. Best as a free standing tree, not the traditional wall shrub. To 30 ft.<br />
Magnolia macrophylla green<br />
An awesome thing. Vast leaves over 2 ft long. Deciduous, grows to 30 ft.<br />
Always in short supply. Nature, once again, in absurd mode. Lime hater.<br />
Mahonia lomariifolia amber<br />
The best of the genus by far. Elegant and very architectural, to 8 ft. For full<br />
eulogy, see the writings of Christopher Lloyd. Very un-roundabout-like indeed.<br />
Matteuccia struthiopteris green<br />
The Ostrich Fern. Large (to 4 ft), well known, very upright, fern that dies<br />
down in the winter. A giant shuttlecock yes but an Ostrich? An Ostrich?!<br />
Maytenus boaria amber<br />
Maiten Tree. Elegant, evergreen, willow-like tree for open sites. Salt resistant.<br />
Visit the grove at Portmeirion, and swoon. In the Home Counties, 25 ft.<br />
Melianthus major red<br />
A much loved evergreen (or blue) shrub (6 ft) <strong>with</strong> huge and deeply cut leaves.<br />
Cut back by severe frost, recovers rapidly. Grows like mad in the autumn.<br />
Miscanthus sinensis 'Gracillimus' green<br />
Tall (5 ft - ish), elegant, slender and very upright grass <strong>with</strong> big plumey<br />
flowers in summer. Not an evergreen, but still beautiful.<br />
Mitraria coccinea amber<br />
A lovely little Chilean evergreen <strong>with</strong> bright red tubular flowers. For damp and<br />
fairly shady places. Lime disliker, rather than hater.<br />
Muehlenbeckia complexa amber<br />
A tiny leafed, vigorous, scrambling sort of thing. It's evergreen and looks quite<br />
jungly. Best in shade, very salt tolerant, incredibly useful, incredibly popular.<br />
Musa basjoo amber<br />
Implausible though it sounds - a (root) hardy Banana. To 10 ft every year in<br />
our Exotic Frost Pocket, protected in winter <strong>with</strong> chimney pots. ESSENTIAL.<br />
Myrtus apiculata amber<br />
Orange Bark Myrtle. An outstanding small evergreen tree <strong>with</strong> remarkable<br />
orange and white bark. Also grown by us as a Niwaki (Cloud pruned)<br />
Myrtus lechleriana amber<br />
Very pretty Chilean Myrtle, especially in late spring, covered in copper<br />
coloured new growth then masses of white flowers. Evergreen tree to 12 ft.<br />
Nothofagus dombeyi green<br />
Dombey's Southern Beech. One of the most successful evergreen broadleaf<br />
trees for Britain. To 30 ft or more, very easy to grow and very beautiful.<br />
Nerine bowdenii amber<br />
Guernsey Lily. A splash of autumn colour. Loud pink Agapanthus like flowers<br />
when all else has fallen by the wayside. Hardy if given perfect drainage.<br />
Olea europaea red<br />
Olive Tree. Familiar to all - we grow it as a bush or as a standard. Happy in<br />
many parts of Britain but don't expect too much of the fruit!<br />
Ophiopogon planiscapus 'Nigrescens' green<br />
Clumps of evergreen jet-black grassy stuff (1 ft x 1 ft) for budding Design<br />
Gurus. Lilac flowers in summer, black berries in autumn.<br />
Osmanthus yunnanensis amber<br />
The most architectural of the genus. Large leafed, distinctive, evergreen<br />
little tree (to 20 ft). Unaccountably rare. All Osmanthuses = nice smells.<br />
Osmunda regalis green<br />
Royal Fern. Impressive (to 4 ft or more) deciduous fern for sun or shade.<br />
Very distinctive <strong>with</strong> its brown spore bearing new fronds. Royal? No idea.<br />
11<br />
“The Most Beautiful Lavatory in Europe”. The Loo at Nuthurst
12<br />
Paulownia tomentosa green<br />
Foxglove Tree. Vigorous young trees, cut down in the spring will grow 8 ft<br />
and produce soft leaves 2 ft across, in one season. A Summer Jungle Plant.<br />
Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’ green<br />
Fountain Grass. Small, bright green clump forming grass (3 ft tall, 2 ft wide).<br />
Flower heads to 4 ft <strong>with</strong> a distinctly pink tinge. Brown in the winter.<br />
Phillyrea latifolia green<br />
Green Olive Tree. It's sculptural. To 20 ft <strong>with</strong> domes and bumps of tight<br />
evergreen foliage. Very hardy, very Japanese looking. One of the very best.<br />
Phoenix canariensis red<br />
Canary Island Date Palm. Elegant waving fronds straight from the Riviera.<br />
Hardy in parts of London, Falmouth, Sydney etc. Big plant, Marvellous plant.<br />
Phormium cookianum amber<br />
Mountain Flax. Greener, laxer and more luxuriant looking than the better<br />
known P. tenax. Lush and jungly. Yellow flowers on 5 ft spikes.<br />
Phormium cookianum tricolor amber<br />
As above but <strong>with</strong> leaves striped green and cream <strong>with</strong> red edges.<br />
Extraordinarily hardy - only showing slight damage in very severe winters.<br />
Phormium tenax green<br />
New Zealand Flax. The Explosion. 7 ft greeny-blue swords explode from the<br />
ground. Huge red flower spikes for extra exoticness. ESSENTIAL.<br />
Phormium tenax 'Purpureum' amber<br />
The purple-leaved one. Flowers the same a P. tenax, tends not to grow<br />
quite as big and comes in an alarmingly wide range of shades of purple.<br />
Phormium tenax variegatum amber<br />
Another for the Exploding Garden - <strong>with</strong> cream variegated leaves. Phormiums<br />
do best on heavy clay. Irresistible - even to the true Variegataphobe.<br />
Photinia glabra green<br />
A clever idea from Italy - a bush grafted onto a trunk producing a tidy little<br />
evergreen tree <strong>with</strong> new growth that’s red and frothy white flowers in May.<br />
Photinia serrulata amber<br />
Aristocratic evergreen (15 ft) <strong>with</strong> an exotic habit and new bronzy leaves in<br />
January. Not to be confused <strong>with</strong> the better known Roundabout species.<br />
Phyllostachys aurea green<br />
Grow this Bamboo and discover the meaning of the intriguing expression -<br />
'clustered node bases'. Very well behaved. Grows to 15 ft. One of the best.<br />
Phyllostachys nigra green<br />
The true Black Bamboo <strong>with</strong> canes like ebony and fabulous dark green foliage<br />
- providing it's cultivated correctly (ask for details). Often in short supply.<br />
Phyllostachys aureosulcata 'Aureocaulis' green<br />
Large, upright, yellow canes and tough as old boots. Ask for details of this<br />
and other bamboos <strong>with</strong> coloured canes and ludicrous names.<br />
Phyllostachys pubescens or edulis green<br />
Moso or Edible Bamboo. Huge fat canes covered in soft hair and foliage more<br />
like fronds than a mere grass. The fairest of all bamboos to be grown in Britain.<br />
Pieris japonica 'Forest Flame' green<br />
Neat piles of tiny evergreen leaves, brilliant red new growth, lots of hanging<br />
white bell flowers, flaky reddish bark, to about 6 ft. Very pretty. Lime Hater.<br />
Pieris japonica 'Variegata' green<br />
As above but much more compact and even more shapely. Leaves are green<br />
<strong>with</strong> white variegation.<br />
The New Plant Sales Office at Nuthurst<br />
Pileostegia viburnoides green<br />
Large, long, leathery leaves. Evergreen, self clinging (if conditions are right)<br />
climber for any aspect - especially shade. Given time, will cover your house.<br />
Pinus montezumae amber<br />
Shitzu Tree. To many people, simply the most beautiful thing in the world. Vivid<br />
green, long soft needles. Grows to 30 ft. and like all pines, needs lots of space.<br />
Pinus patula amber<br />
Orang-Utan Pine. Another Mexican beauty <strong>with</strong> long, soft, feathery, hanging<br />
needles - like a great big Orang-Utan. To 30 ft. Easy to grow. Chalk hater.<br />
Pinus pinea green<br />
Umbrella Pine - wonderful, flat topped Pine familiar to all visitors to the Med.<br />
ESSENTIAL in any 'Mediterranean' garden, along <strong>with</strong> the Italian Cypress.
13<br />
Pinus radiata green<br />
Monterey Pine from California. Large, fluffy and remarkable for two things:<br />
its speed of growth and its salt resistance. Could reach 30 ft. in 15 years.<br />
Pittosporum tenuifolium amber<br />
A familiar evergreen shrub or small tree in seaside gardens <strong>with</strong> its luxuriant,<br />
crinkly edged, pale green leaves. Hardy in many inland gardens.<br />
Pittosporum tobira amber<br />
Shiny, tough, evergreen leaves and delicious, powerfully smelly cream<br />
coloured flowers in June. Very Japanese. Excellent by the seaside. To 6 ft.<br />
Pleioblastus variegatus green<br />
The only decent variegated Bamboo. Very similar to P. distichus, but much<br />
less vigorous and invasive. Very useful, especially in winter. Clip it.<br />
Podocarpus macrophyllus green<br />
Maki. Ubiquitous in Japanese gardens. A very architectural little conifer <strong>with</strong><br />
its long thin leaves. To about 15 ft, very hardy, does well in shade.<br />
Podocarpus salignus green<br />
Willow Podocarp from Chile. Piles of luxuriant evergreen foliage - there's<br />
nothing else like it. It grows to about 25 ft eventually and is ESSENTIAL.<br />
Deliveries being prepared<br />
Polystichum munitum green<br />
Evergreen fern forming rosettes of fronds about 3ft across or more, where<br />
plenty of moisture's available.<br />
Polystichum polyblepharum amber<br />
Polly-Polly. Evergreen fern <strong>with</strong> symmetrical rosettes of remarkably shiny,<br />
dark green fronds about 2 ft across or more.<br />
Polystichum setiferum green<br />
A very nice little hardy fern. Very popular and more or less evergreen, it lays<br />
quite flat and forms a rosette of fronds about 3 ft across.<br />
Polystichum setiferum 'Plumosum' green<br />
As above but a slightly smaller version <strong>with</strong> leaves (sorry, fronds) that could<br />
be described as frothy or frilly or flimsy. Well it's different anyway.<br />
Poncirus trifoliata green<br />
Japanese Bitter Orange. Deciduous. Has big white, typically Citrus, fragrant<br />
lowers in Spring, little oranges in Autumn. Makes a great hedge. To 10 ft.<br />
Prunus laurocerasus green<br />
Evergreen Cherry. Well known as a hedge but we grow it as a tree . Fragrant<br />
white flowers in April. Grows to 15 ft. Tough as old boots and very pretty.<br />
Prunus lusitanica ‘Myrtifolia’ green<br />
Small leafed Portuguese Laurel. Well known evergreen <strong>with</strong> many many uses.<br />
We sell it as Mushrooms, Cones, Mop Heads and for Hedging.<br />
Pseudopanax chathamica amber<br />
Long thin leathery leaves organised in an architectural manner on top of a<br />
slender trunk and if you think it sounds odd, it's ordinary compared <strong>with</strong> :<br />
Pseudopanax crassifolius amber<br />
Lancewood Tree from N.Z.. In its juvenile state, 2 ft long leaves, very thin,<br />
hanging at 45° from the trunk. Outrageous. One of our more original designs.<br />
Pseudopanax laetus red<br />
The pretty one. Large glossy evergreen bush. Pseudopanax don't seem to<br />
bother much <strong>with</strong> soppy things like roots - they actually like growing in a pot.<br />
Pseudosasa japonica green<br />
The return of a once much loved Bamboo. It's stopped flowering and so its<br />
safe to plant again. Large leaves, open habit, to 15 ft, one of the very best.<br />
Puya alpestris red<br />
Wonderful Pineapple relatives. Silvery, prickly rosettes <strong>with</strong> extraordinary<br />
metallic blue flower spikes, for mild, windy gardens (or pots). To 2 ft x 2 ft<br />
Quercus ilex green<br />
Holm Oak. Beautiful evergreen tree <strong>with</strong> a reputation for being rather ‘grand’<br />
owing to its long association <strong>with</strong> formal planting in large country houses.<br />
Quercus myrsinifolia green<br />
Bamboo leafed oak. Piles of evergreen bamboo-like foliage (reddish when<br />
young). An utterly beautiful tree to 30 ft after many years.<br />
Quercus suber amber<br />
Cork Tree or Cork Oak. Much more successful in Britain than many people<br />
realise. Evergreen, to 25 ft, dense and round headed, lovely bark (cork).
14<br />
Rhamnus alaternus variegata amber<br />
Like the variegated Pittosporums - but much hardier and faster growing. Very<br />
reliable, variegated evergreen to 10 ft. or more. Lots of orange flowers.<br />
Rhus typhina green<br />
Sumach Tree. Small deciduous tree (12 ft) <strong>with</strong> wonderful huge soft pinnate<br />
leaves. Dead common - but why can't more plants like this be dead common?<br />
Rosmarinus officinalis amber<br />
Common Rosemary. Common maybe, but still an ESSENTIAL part of a<br />
Mediterranean garden, always smelling delicious. Grows to about 3 ft.<br />
Rosmarinus 'Repens' amber<br />
Naturally prostrate, at its most impressive when allowed to pour over<br />
the side of a wall in great curtains. VERY sharp drainage for all Rosemarys.<br />
Ruscus aculeatus green<br />
Butcher’s Broom. Weird. Dark evergreen triangles on 3 ft sticks, bright red<br />
berries. Happy in dry and dense shade where almost nothing else will grow.<br />
Sasa palmata green<br />
Jungly, large leafed, hardy Bamboo. Grows to 8 ft. Thoroughly ill mannered<br />
(rampant) and everyone loves it. Can be confined to pot <strong>with</strong> great success.<br />
Sempervivum green<br />
We've a number of these familiar spiky little rosettes. Grow these in profusion<br />
amongst your yuccas and other succulents.<br />
Sequoia sempervirens green<br />
Coast Redwood. Grow these in groves, close together, to get their full<br />
cathedral-like splendour. 100 ft in 50 years? Possibly for the larger garden.<br />
Stipa gigantea green<br />
Giant Feather Grass. It’s big (to 4 ft) but <strong>with</strong> it’s even bigger oat like flower<br />
heads (to 6 ft) it has something of an airy Pampas Grass about it.<br />
Stipa tenuissima green<br />
Feather Grass. It’s short and green and must be planted in large quantities in<br />
a very light and well ventilated garden so it can be seen waving in the wind.<br />
Tamarix gallica green<br />
Tamarisk. Either as a first line of defence at the seaside or as a beautiful,<br />
feathery little tree, inland. Pink flowers in summer. Standards available.<br />
Taxodium distichum green<br />
Swamp Cypress. Deciduous conifer that loves bogs and thoroughly bad<br />
drainage. Tall and slender, soft, green foliage and a fine show in autumn.<br />
Taxus baccata green<br />
Yew. We can always get you plants for hedging but usually only stock large<br />
Yew topiary : cones. pyramids, balls and blobs.<br />
Tetrapanax papyrifera amber<br />
Rice Paper Plant. A great success, said to have gone berserk in Fulham.<br />
Huge cut grey leaves covered in powdery stuff. 6 ft or more, very jungly.<br />
Trachelospermum asiaticum green<br />
Very fine evergreen climber. Dense mass of small leaves and tiny cream<br />
flowers in June and July <strong>with</strong> the fabulous smell of Gardenia. Slow growing.<br />
Trachelospermum jasminoides amber<br />
Star Jasmine. Compared <strong>with</strong> T. asiaticum : leaves bigger, grows taller and<br />
faster, less hardy, flowers for longer (June to October is possible). Marv!<br />
Trachycarpus fortunei green<br />
Chusan Palm. Ridiculously frost hardy but please don't try to grow it on the<br />
seafront. Many sizes - the big ones <strong>with</strong> stripped trunks. ESSENTIAL.<br />
We pride ourselves in our plant loading skills<br />
Trachycarpus wagnerianus green<br />
The palm that everyone wants. Similar to the one above but <strong>with</strong><br />
smaller, stiffer leaves. Only available as small plants. Unfortunately.<br />
Trochodendron aralioides green<br />
Cartwheel Tree. Primitive, weird and unique from its evergreen Schefflera-like<br />
leaves to its vivid green flowers. Very frost hardy, slow growing to 15 ft.
15<br />
Viburnum cinnamomifolium green<br />
As Viburnums go, an absolute monster. Similar to the well known V. davidii,<br />
but bigger in every respect; leaves almost twice the size, could reach 15ft.<br />
Viburnum tinus green<br />
Laurus tinus. Dead common but not to be under estimated. This has so much<br />
more to offer pruned into a little tree - try it! And it flowers all winter long.<br />
Vitis coignetiae green<br />
Excellent jungly climber <strong>with</strong> very large leaves. Very hardy, happy in sun or<br />
shade. Unfortunately deciduous, but a fine display of colour in the autumn.<br />
Weinmannia trichosperma amber<br />
Fabulous small evergreen tree from Chile <strong>with</strong> fern like leaves. Doing terribly<br />
well in Edgware - 8 ft in 4 years and flowering. Could reach 15 ft.<br />
Wollemia nobilis amber<br />
Wollemi Pine. The mysterious and highly decorative conifer discovered only<br />
20 years ago. So far proving fast, hardy, easy and very pretty too.<br />
‘The Avenue’ at the Chichester Nursery<br />
Woodwardia radicans red<br />
Chain Fern. An irresistible evergreen fern that spreads by producing new<br />
fernettes at the ends of its 6 ft fronds. Tender. An excellent indoor plant.<br />
Woodwardia unigemmata amber<br />
Chinese Chain Fern. Not quite as beautiful as the one above but hardier and<br />
much rarer but <strong>with</strong> similar characteristics. New fronds are distinctly red.<br />
Yucca aloifolia amber<br />
Spanish Bayonet. The most beautiful (yes, beautiful) and the most dangerous<br />
Yucca. Trunk forming (6 ft), pale green. Frost, no problem. Wet, big problem.<br />
Yucca aloifolia variegata red<br />
Very pretty variegated version of above. Slow growing, pricey, rare, desirable<br />
and never available as a small plant.<br />
Yucca x floribunda green<br />
Trunk forming cross between Y. gloriosa and filamentosa. Flowers like mad in<br />
the sun and gets in a right old mess. Brilliant as an accent plant in shade.<br />
Yucca gloriosa green<br />
The best known but hardest-to-get-hold of Yucca. This is the true gloriosa<br />
<strong>with</strong> it's stout trunk and stiff ascending leaves. Impressive, wonderful texture.<br />
Yucca gloriosa variegata green<br />
As above but <strong>with</strong> yellow and green striped leaves. Very frost hardy but much<br />
less bulky. Could reach 4 ft tall by 3 ft across, less likely to form a 'thicket'.<br />
Yucca recurva green<br />
Another classic Victorian favourite. Trunk forming, but <strong>with</strong> graceful recurved<br />
(bending) leaves. Huge white flower spikes, as <strong>with</strong> all the Yuccas.<br />
Zantedeschia aethiopica 'Crowborough' amber<br />
Hardy Arum Lily. Dark green leaves and immaculate white flowers to 2 ft or<br />
more. Just as happy in damp shade as dry sun. Good in a pot too.<br />
The Intrepid Quest for architectural plants continues. If you feel there are any<br />
conspicuous omissions in this list - please let us know. We know we're terribly<br />
opinionated, but we'll try our best to listen.
16<br />
LARGER SPECIMENS<br />
This is a Check List of all the plants we have in larger sizes.<br />
It's a floating population - phone us to find our current stocks.<br />
Spiky :<br />
Agave, Beschorneria, Cordyline australis, Dasylirion, Furcraea,<br />
Phormium tenax + tenax variegatum, Yucca aloifolia, Yucca x floribunda,<br />
Yucca gloriosa variegata, Yucca recurva<br />
Palms / Generally Frondy :<br />
Butia capitata, Chamaerops humilis, Cycas revoluta,<br />
Dicksonia antarctica, Jubea chilensis, Phoenix canariensis,<br />
Trachycarpus fortunei (the big ones we sell <strong>with</strong> stripped trunks - much<br />
prettier. Trachycarpus striptus?)<br />
Outrageous Herbaceous :<br />
Acanthus mollis, Agapanthus, Cannas, Gunnera manicata, Hedychium,<br />
Musa basjoo<br />
Grass / Bamboo :<br />
Arundo donax, Fargesia murieliae, Phyllostachys aurea, P. nigra,<br />
P. aureosulcata,P. vivax ‘Aureocaulis’, Pseudosasa japonica, Sasa<br />
Evergreen Shrubs :<br />
Aucuba ‘Crotonifolia’, Choisya ternata, Eriobotrya deflexa, Euonymus<br />
japonicus, Fatsia japonica, Griselinia littoralis, Magnolia grandiflora,<br />
Pittosporum tobira, Prunus lusitanica, Pseudopanax laetus<br />
Small Deciduous Trees :<br />
Albizia julibrissin rosea, Aralia elata, Ficus carica, Rhus,<br />
Tamarix gallica<br />
Large Deciduous Trees :<br />
Catalpa ‘Bungea’, Paulownia tomentosa, Taxodium<br />
Small Evergreen Trees :<br />
Acacia, Arbutus andrachnoides, A. glandulosa, Eriobotrya japonica,<br />
Genista aetnensis, Laurus nobilis angustifolia, Ligustrum lucidum,<br />
Lyonothamnus, Magnolia grandiflora, Myrtus apiculata, Olea, Phillyrea<br />
latifolia, Photinia, Pinus, Prunus laurocerasus, Podocarpus salignus,<br />
Pseudopanax crassifolius, Quercus myrsinifolia<br />
Larger Evergreen Trees :<br />
Cupressus sempervirens, Eucalyptus, Nothofagus,<br />
Pinus patula, Pinus pinea, Pinus radiata, Quercus ilex, Quercus suber<br />
Niwaki:<br />
Also know as Pom-Poms or Cloud Pruned Trees. Niwaki means, literally,<br />
‘Garden Tree’ because these belong in the ground, not in pots (they’re<br />
called Bonsai).<br />
The most extraordinary, and certainly the most expensive plants on the<br />
nursery, these are grown in Japan and are a species of Holly called<br />
Ilex crenata.<br />
We also grow our own Niwaki at the Chichester nursery, where they and<br />
their maker (Narongphol Rittirat - a.k.a. Noi - from Bangkok) can be<br />
inspected :<br />
Myrtus apiculata (Orange Bark Myrtle) and Phillyrea latifolia (Green<br />
Olive)<br />
Topiary :<br />
We're uncharacteristically refined and restrained in this department.<br />
No Dinosaurs, no Penny Farthing Bicycles, no Tennis Rackets and no<br />
Footballers.<br />
We go for things like Balls, Lollipops, Mop Heads, Pyramids and Cones.<br />
Buxus (Box Balls & Cones), Ilex (various forms of Holly as Lollipops),<br />
Laurus nobilis (Bay Lollipops and Cones), Ligustrum delavayi (Tiny<br />
Leafed Privet as Lollipops), Olea (Olive Lollipops), Pittosporum tobira<br />
(Mop Heads),<br />
Prunus lusitanica (Portuguese Laurel Mop Heads & Cones), Rosmarinus<br />
(Small Rosemary Lollipops), Taxus (Yew Cones & Pyramids), Viburnum<br />
tinus (Laurustinus Lollipops)<br />
(What's the difference between a Mop Head and a Lollipop? Hmmmm...<br />
Lollipop's tidier than a Mop Head)<br />
Most of these plants are individually priced - please ask for a Quotation.
17<br />
GARDEN DESIGN<br />
Much air is consumed on the subject of garden design and the implication<br />
is clear - all you need for a great garden is a great design.<br />
True, you do indeed need a great design in the form of bold ideas,<br />
sound principles and a high degree of coherence but once these factors<br />
The stilted Hornbeam hedges that always get the most comment in this<br />
remarkable garden. An eloquent study in bold design.<br />
An illusion of privacy is created using evergreen exotics in this small<br />
garden. The meandering grass path used to be the lawn.<br />
are in place the difference between a wonderful garden and a calamity<br />
is accomplished by execution and maintenance not just design.<br />
We can design a garden for you that observes all these vital princples.<br />
We can design it <strong>with</strong> you, around you and for you but the<br />
true creativity begins about three years after the planting is complete.<br />
It’s the way you accommodate all these ever expanding and constantly<br />
changing pieces of vegetation that’s the clever bit. We call it Creative<br />
Mediterranean, Japanese, spiky, blobby. It’s all to do <strong>with</strong> shape,<br />
texture, light and sculpture.<br />
Maintenance. What to remove? What to shape? How to shape it? How to<br />
meld your beloved collection of plants into a gigantic piece of delicious<br />
sculpture. Some people seem to be intimidated by this prospect. We say<br />
it’s tremendously good fun and it’s called gardening.
18<br />
The creation of wonderful places using plants is threaded through<br />
everything we do - the choice of plants we grow, the way we present<br />
them on the nursery, the advice we dispense and the ideas we propose.<br />
<strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong> is about shape - an obsession <strong>with</strong> the sculptural<br />
qualities of plants where strong, eye catching outlines, delicious textures<br />
and combined shades of green, rule.<br />
We planted an avenue of large box balls either side of an existing path.<br />
Bold and simple.<br />
Hand in hand <strong>with</strong> this sculptural/textural/verdant thing must come<br />
the question - ‘Yes, but how do I bring it about?’ Put at its very<br />
simplest, take Kenneth Williams’ advice - ‘Be bold!’<br />
There are a number of fundamentals that we use as guides when<br />
helping people design their gardens (e.g. big plants at the back,<br />
small plants at the front)<br />
but none come as high up<br />
the list as Be Bold and Avoid<br />
Being Timid. Avoid it like the<br />
plague. Nobody ever created<br />
an interesting garden by<br />
being timid. In fact, nobody<br />
ever created anything of<br />
interest by being timid.<br />
Being bold - massive<br />
swathes of the same plant,<br />
avenues, rows, stilted<br />
hedges, planting trees that<br />
get ‘too big’ and trees in the<br />
‘wrong’ place - all require, I<br />
admit, a degree of recklessness,<br />
courage and<br />
confidence. If you feel you<br />
may be positively predis-<br />
Never under-estimate the effect of<br />
shapely exotics from upstairs<br />
posed to such a concept, we<br />
can help. Our job is to<br />
encourage people to do<br />
interesting things <strong>with</strong> their garden - if you feel you may be teetering on<br />
the edge of doing something interesting, please allow us to at least talk<br />
to you about giving you a shove over the edge.<br />
Fleshy, spiky, alien and outlandish. Full on, in your face,<br />
screaming exotica. It works every time
19<br />
A GARDEN DESIGNED, BUILT AND MAINTAINED<br />
BY ARCHITECTURAL PLANTS USING<br />
ARCHITECTURAL PLANTS<br />
On page two I’ve written a little on the evolution of this side of the<br />
business. We used to be a nursery selling plants to anyone discerning<br />
enough to buy them.<br />
Now we’re a company that<br />
does your garden from top<br />
to toe that’s fortunate<br />
enough to have its very<br />
own nursery. We design,<br />
we build, we plant and we<br />
creatively maintain.<br />
Thousands of plants to choose from at<br />
either nursery. Lots of topiary<br />
Nearly all the gardens<br />
we’ve designed and<br />
built have been as a result<br />
of a visit to either nursery.<br />
For those taken by the<br />
presentation, flavour and<br />
look of the nursery there’s<br />
a realisation that some of that feeling can be reproduced in their own<br />
garden. That’s what we endeavour to do - give you a piece of<br />
<strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong>.<br />
Because we love plants,<br />
the emphasis in our<br />
gardens is always on ‘creating<br />
an effect using plants’.<br />
An obvious statement perhaps<br />
but some modern garden<br />
designs seem to have a<br />
greater emphasis on the<br />
‘hard landscaping’ (ponds,<br />
paths, patios etc) and less<br />
on the plants. We’ll do the<br />
hard landscaping too and<br />
under the vigilant eye of our Thousands of plants to choose from at<br />
landscape manager Rob either nursery. Lots of spiky plants<br />
Mackinnon, it will always<br />
be beautifully executed but don’t forget - being us - the plants will<br />
always come first.<br />
THE PROCEDURE<br />
1. Triage<br />
If you show an interest in having us design your garden, first phone<br />
01403 891772 and ask for Frances Law, our triage expert. Triage?<br />
We’ve always had a process whereby<br />
we speak to a customer <strong>with</strong> the<br />
intention of considering how and<br />
who (which member of staff) can<br />
serve them best. I’d always been<br />
surprised that <strong>with</strong> the vast array of<br />
loony business jargon floating<br />
around, there didn’t seem to be a<br />
label for this (to us) all important<br />
process. Discussing this <strong>with</strong> a doctor<br />
friend, he pointed out that in his<br />
world of emergency medicine, this<br />
was called ‘triage’ : the decision as<br />
to how best to deal <strong>with</strong> a casualty<br />
Triage. Initial discussions start<br />
at the nursery<br />
that’s just arrived at the hospital.<br />
It’s nowhere near as bloody here but<br />
it’s still a good analogy. A brief discussion<br />
<strong>with</strong> someone skilled at<br />
triage can save a great deal of time and set everyone on the right<br />
course almost immediately.<br />
2. The Right Person<br />
Following this relatively brief discussion, you will be put in touch (as<br />
quickly as possible) <strong>with</strong> The Right Person - your designer. The<br />
meeting that ensues involves looking at <strong>photos</strong>, maybe aerial <strong>photos</strong> on<br />
the internet and discussions about your ambitions for the garden, your<br />
loves and loathings and if possible, your budget. (A good time to<br />
emphasise that great gardens rely on bold ideas well executed not necessarily,<br />
huge sums of money).
Usually a visit to your<br />
garden is then organized<br />
and an idea begins to<br />
take shape.<br />
This is also the point<br />
where things become<br />
idiosyncratic - all our<br />
sales people and garden<br />
designers have their own<br />
way of working but it doesn’t<br />
matter. All the different<br />
methods work.<br />
3. Propositions & Quotations<br />
Next, a proposition will be made in the form of a letter or quotation.<br />
The approach by our different designers may well be idiosyncratic<br />
but we’re all good listeners<br />
and we never forget that it’s<br />
your garden. We want the<br />
process to be cooperative<br />
and enjoyable, never dogmatic<br />
or stressful. (This is<br />
gardening we’re talking<br />
about - one of the most<br />
marvellous pastimes ever<br />
invented by the human<br />
race). The proposition or<br />
quotation could include<br />
information about drawings,<br />
plants, planting, hard landscaping<br />
and if necessary,<br />
creative maintenance. A proposed date of commencement is included in<br />
the quote to get you in the queue and the ball is then in your court.<br />
4. Getting it done. Serious Gardening<br />
Everything may have been preordained in a scale plan or there may<br />
be a degree of ‘composing on site’ but however the work is done,<br />
the designer will either be<br />
present during the laying<br />
out before the planting<br />
begins or the planters will<br />
have precise instructions to<br />
follow. It’s vital that the<br />
customer’s present as well,<br />
to be a part of this all<br />
important process. This is<br />
where it begins to be your<br />
garden, not our garden.<br />
The plants will have been<br />
paid for already but the<br />
work done by us will be<br />
invoiced once the job is finished<br />
and everyone’s happy.<br />
Early discussions about<br />
our further involvement<br />
<strong>with</strong> the garden may start<br />
at this point. Our views on<br />
garden maintenance are<br />
well known : as long as<br />
your garden has been built<br />
using sound design princi-<br />
After<br />
ples, creative and intelligent maintenance is what will create a truly<br />
remarkable garden. We’d love to be able to help.<br />
20<br />
Christine Shaw at Chichester.<br />
Full-time garden designer<br />
Using aerial photographs on google to<br />
assess the lie of the land<br />
Rob and Liam on the final approach to a Japanese Karikomi garden<br />
Before
21<br />
Before After<br />
Planting ornamental hedges, staking trees and installing irrigation.<br />
The first stage<br />
PLANTING BY US<br />
To clarify : this service is separate from our Garden Design service.<br />
Customers often just want some trees planted properly and like the<br />
idea of our conditional guarantee...<br />
Planted high, well staked and no<br />
competition. Perfect<br />
When I started the nursery 20<br />
years ago, I had no idea how<br />
many plants could fail because of<br />
poor planting, incorrect positioning<br />
and poor husbandry.<br />
Our response has been to set up a<br />
new part of the company :<br />
Planting and Creative Maintenance -<br />
the two areas of horticulture that we<br />
feel are so sorely overlooked and<br />
underestimated. We'll guarantee the<br />
plants for their first year (always the<br />
trickiest) and the only thing you'll<br />
have to do is keep them well watered<br />
for their first season. In the majority of cases we will have seen where<br />
the plants are going - the general aspect, the degree of shelter or<br />
exposure and the type of soil. We've grown the plant, we've seen the<br />
site, we've planted the plant - surely we can offer some kind of<br />
guarantee after that? Ask for a quote - distance from either nursery can<br />
obviously be a problem but there's no harm in asking.<br />
A huge curving screen of<br />
Bamboo just after planting<br />
Positioning, planting and clipping<br />
a Japanese garden
22<br />
Some plants are born architectural, some achieve architecture and<br />
some have architecture thrust upon them<br />
CREATIVE MAINTENANCE<br />
What does it mean? I think the best way I can explain it is by<br />
imagining going up to a plant and saying "You're a nice plant but<br />
is there anything I can do to make you look even nicer?"<br />
In most cases the answer is a resounding “Yes”. Raising, thinning and<br />
shaping the crowns of trees and shrubs, removing the tired old leaves<br />
on palms and yuccas. It's all<br />
to do <strong>with</strong> producing a garden<br />
of beautifully sculpted plants<br />
and a look of well groomed<br />
verdancy which is what<br />
<strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong> are all<br />
about anyway. Most of the<br />
techniques that we've developed<br />
over the last 20 years<br />
are borrowed from nature and<br />
if you can look at a garden<br />
that's been Creatively<br />
Creative Maintenance. Phillyrea latifolia<br />
and two very different bamboos<br />
Maintained by us and yet it<br />
still looks completely natural -<br />
then we have succeeded.<br />
On the subject of general garden maintenance (whether creative or<br />
otherwise), it’s said that one of Britain’s foremost landscapers of<br />
the 20th century (who’s<br />
name is a secret) had what<br />
he (or she) called the Four<br />
‘F’s rule when it came to his<br />
(or her) work : “Find it /<br />
Finish it / Fotograph it and<br />
F*** off”. Not Funny. To us<br />
this exemplifies a common<br />
attitude about the creation of<br />
gardens which is plain<br />
wrong. Don't spend time and<br />
money building a new garden<br />
if it’s then going to be largely<br />
neglected. It’s soul destroying<br />
to witness and we’ve seen it<br />
Creative Maintenance. We remove the<br />
unsightly canes and ‘raise’ the head.<br />
so often. Good design is vital but intelligent and creative maintenance is<br />
vital too and it sends us mad that this aspect of gardening is so often<br />
and so sorely overlooked. Once we’ve built a garden we’re only too<br />
pleased to continue to help you <strong>with</strong> it in any way we can for as long as<br />
you like.
23<br />
Creative Maintenance. This ancient Yew Tree in Somerset has been<br />
shaped like this for 40 years, by the same man<br />
Creative Maintenance. Stripping<br />
the hair off the Palm Tree trunks<br />
Creative Maintenance. Removing<br />
old bark from Ironwood Trees<br />
Creative Maintenance. John being intrepid up a Cypress tree.<br />
You can see the bit he’s done and the bit he’s about to do.
Creative Maintenance.<br />
Colin cleaning up a palm<br />
24<br />
Creative Maintenance. Keeping Italian Cypress looking good in England<br />
is a challenge. Here’s living proof that it can be done<br />
Creative Maintenance.<br />
Clipped Lonicera<br />
Remember the Monocots from your Bilge<br />
lessons? Yuccas always need attention<br />
Creative Maintenance. Nice work on this little Strawberry tree - just by<br />
removing some of the lower foliage to reveal the shape <strong>with</strong>in
25<br />
BIBLIOGRAPHY<br />
ow do you educate yourself on these horticultural matters? Try visiting lots of<br />
Hour botanic gardens - most of them seem to be either <strong>with</strong>in 10 miles of<br />
Haywards Heath in Sussex or <strong>with</strong>in 10 miles of Truro in Cornwall. Kew Gardens and<br />
Wakehurst Place are particularly good because they’re so huge and everything is so<br />
well labelled.<br />
FOR REFERENCE<br />
'<strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong>'<br />
by Christine Shaw<br />
Published by Harper Collins in October 2005 to rave reviews.<br />
[This isn’t quite a house publication but considering that Christine’s worked at<br />
<strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong> since 1991, she does know what she’s talking about and the<br />
book does cover virtually every plant that we sell plus much vital stuff on necessary<br />
husbandry. Lots of pictures - mostly taken here. Available from all self respecting<br />
book shops, or either of our nurseries (signed, of course) at £25.00. Alternatively,<br />
phone us <strong>with</strong> credit card details and we’ll send you a copy for £32.50 inc P&P]<br />
'Niwaki'<br />
by Jake Hobson<br />
Published by Timber Press<br />
[From the pen of Sculptor, ex-<strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong> employee, Expert on Japanese<br />
Gardening and General Horticultural Adventurer, Jake Hobson. You’ll learn more<br />
about How They Do It In Japanese Gardens from this book than all the rest put<br />
together and YES, we sell it - exactly the same as above]<br />
'Hillier's Manual of Trees & Shrubs'<br />
by H.G. Hillier<br />
Published by David & Charles<br />
[Incredibly useful little reference book. Comprehensive for virtually everything<br />
except herbaceous and alpine plants. Very affordable]<br />
'Trees & Shrubs Hardy in the British Isles'<br />
by W.J. Bean<br />
Published by John Murray<br />
[The Bible. Extremely authoritative. Lots of entertaining anecdotal information in 5<br />
fat volumes. A great present for all tree lovers. A bit dear, but worth every penny]<br />
'The Trees of San Francisco'<br />
by Mike Sullivan<br />
Published by Pomegranite<br />
[We can’t grow all the trees found in frost-free San Francisco but this book is an<br />
absolute gem and should (and MUST) become the blueprint for a world wide series.<br />
First : ‘The Trees of London’ - someone! please!]<br />
'Perennial Garden <strong>Plants</strong>'<br />
by Graham Stuart Thomas<br />
Published by J.M. Dent & Sons<br />
[Any book by the immensely knowledgeable Mr. Thomas is worth having]<br />
FOR INSPIRATION<br />
'Caribbean Style'<br />
Published by Thames & Hudson<br />
[Full of lovely <strong>photos</strong> of plants and buildings to inspire you]<br />
'The Sub-Tropical Garden'<br />
by Gil Hanly & Jacqueline Walker<br />
Published by Godwit Press<br />
[From New Zealand. There are many valid points in the text about the ideas behind<br />
creating gardens <strong>with</strong> a natural look based on foliage and architectural plants]<br />
'Exceptional Gardens'<br />
Published by Beta Plus<br />
[Many pictures of some grand Belgian gardens reflecting a great European tradition<br />
of well groomed topiary, formality, the power of strong shapes and the colour green.<br />
Important stuff. Full of the usual vacuous and uninformative magazine-like captions<br />
that are probably best ignored]<br />
'The Gardens of California'<br />
by Nancy Goslee Power<br />
Published by Thames and Hudson<br />
[Includes some delicious pictures of spiky plants and beautifully pruned trees -<br />
possibly reflecting some Japanese influence on West Coast American gardens]<br />
FOR INSPIRATION & REFERENCE<br />
'www.treeshapers.com'<br />
[Creative tree surgery taken to its logical conclusion. It’s what we blather on about<br />
all the time but, to be honest, these guys from San Francisco explain it so much better<br />
than we do. Brilliant stuff - essential viewing]<br />
The Bookshop at the R.H.S. Garden at Wisley in Surrey is probably the best<br />
for books, currently in print. Unfortunately many horticultural books don't<br />
seem to stay in print very long so a second-hand specialist can work. Try the<br />
excellent Mike Parks in Sutton, Surrey. Telephone : 0208 641 7796
26<br />
Some long words on why you can't grow everything everywhere<br />
he British climate is described as Cool Temperate Maritime. Heavily influenced<br />
Tby the relatively warm waters of the Atlantic, we experience cooler summers<br />
and milder winters than any other place at an equivalent latitude, either north or<br />
south of the equator. As a general rule, in Britain, the further west one goes, the<br />
greater the influence of the Atlantic, the further east one goes, the greater the<br />
influence of the Continent. So - the further west, the higher the rainfall, the cooler<br />
the summers and the milder the winters. The further east, the lower the rainfall,<br />
the warmer the summers and the colder the winters. The north-south divide is less<br />
well defined; the further south, the warmer the summer, is about the only obvious<br />
characteristic.<br />
This island climate allows us to grow an incredible range of plants from every corner<br />
of the nontropical world; select the ones that look like they come from the tropics,<br />
use them to excess and - Hey Presto! - you have an extraordinary garden.<br />
Below, we describe 5 microclimates to be encountered <strong>with</strong>in the British Isles, followed<br />
by lists of plants for particular positions. You might recognise an exact<br />
description of your garden but it's much more likely that your garden incorporates<br />
aspects of several of these categories.<br />
EXPOSED OR CANOPIED<br />
substantial difference to the microclimate can be made to any of the following<br />
Acategories, according to whether they are 'exposed' or 'canopied'; overhanging<br />
trees will create conditions of dappled shade beloved by so many plants, create<br />
shelter from wind and, particularly in the Frost Pocket, will trap warm air on cold<br />
clear still nights. These canopy trees will create an effective wind shelter, even if<br />
deciduous, but to create effective shelter from frost, tall growing evergreen<br />
broadleafed (as opposed to coniferous) trees are essential. There are not that many<br />
reliably hardy trees that fit this description but some of the Eucalypts and Quercus<br />
ilex, especially when they've had their crowns lifted are absolutely ideal - dense<br />
enough to keep the heat in, sparse enough to let the light in. ('Crowns lifted' is<br />
Tree-Surgeon-Speak for cutting off the lower branches).<br />
1. THE FROST POCKET.<br />
old air is dense and runs downhill. During periods of clear night skies and no<br />
Cwind (high pressure), cold air will be trapped wherever escape is impossible -<br />
most commonly on valley bottoms. Gardens in so-called 'Frost Pockets' are subject<br />
to later frosts in spring, earlier frosts in autumn and even when frost is widespread,<br />
if there's no wind, the frost in these gardens will be more severe than elsewhere; a<br />
difference of 8°c between a valley bottom and a garden at 700ft, is quite possible.<br />
Much misunderstanding surrounds this phenomenon; many people <strong>with</strong> gardens in<br />
such a situation describe them as being 'sheltered', supposing them to be less cold<br />
rather than more cold. This garden can enjoy slightly higher temperatures in the<br />
summer during the day and is sometimes well protected from strong winds. There<br />
might also be a greater amount of moisture present in the soil, if it's in the valley<br />
bottom. <strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong> in Nuthurst is in a classic frost pocket - an idiotic<br />
place for a nursery - but at least we know what we're talking about when it comes<br />
to chilly places. <strong>Plants</strong> in this sort of garden are going to have to survive very low<br />
temperatures and it is therefore this kind of garden that is going to benefit more<br />
than most from being 'canopied' by tall evergreen broadleafed trees.<br />
WARNING TO ALL FROST-POCKET GARDENERS : NEVER KEEP A THERMOMETER<br />
ON YOUR PROPERTY. YOU'LL BECOME NEUROTIC, PARANOID AND DEPRESSED.<br />
AVOID THIS BY STAMPING ON THE STUPID THING - NOW.<br />
RECOMMENDED ESSENTIALS :<br />
Araucaria - Aralia - Arundo - Bamboos* - Blechnum - Cortaderia - Cupressus<br />
sempervirens - Cynara - Eryngium - Eucalyptus - Euphorbia - Fatsia -<br />
Fatshedera - Genista aetnensis - Gunnera - Hebe - Hedera - Magnolia grandiflora<br />
- Magnolia macrophylla - Musa basjoo - Paulownia - Phillyrea latifolia -<br />
Phormium tenax - Pinus pinea - Podocarpus - Prunus laurocerasus - Quercus<br />
ilex - Quercus myrsinifolia - Rhus - Tamarix - Trachycarpus - Yucca<br />
* see BAMBOOS on page 32<br />
2. THE HILL STATION<br />
n many ways, the exact opposite of the Frost Pocket. On cold clear still nights,<br />
Ithe denser cold air is pouring down the hill, constantly being replaced <strong>with</strong> slightly<br />
warmer air - thus, both the frequency and intensity of the frost will be minimised<br />
by the degree of frost drainage - particularly if it's south facing. People will often<br />
equate a high and exposed situation like this as being synonymous <strong>with</strong> a very cold<br />
garden - another common misunderstanding. The benefits of a high position (up to,<br />
say, 1,000ft after which the benefits begin to diminish) cannot be over emphasised;<br />
a garden at 500ft in Surrey could experience less frost than a garden in a bad frost<br />
pocket in south-west Cornwall. Here one is aiming for plants that are wind resistant,<br />
but, at the same time, because of the diminished problem of frost, one has a<br />
greater range of plants to play <strong>with</strong>. Hill Top could also suggest good water<br />
drainage or dry soil - characteristics that could be put to good use.
27<br />
RECOMMENDED ESSENTIALS :<br />
Agave - Albizia julibrissin - Aloe aristata - Aralia - Araucaria - Arbutus - Arundo<br />
- Azara - Callistemon - Ceanothus - Chamaerops - Cordyline - Cupressus sempervirens<br />
- Cistus - Eriobotrya - Eryngium - Eucalyptus - Euphorbia - Genista<br />
aetnensis - Griselinia - Hedychium - Kniphofia - Lomatia - Lyonothamnus -<br />
Magnolia - Melianthus - Myrtus - Paulownia - Phillyrea - Phormium - Pinus -<br />
Pittosporum - Podocarpus - Pseudopanax - Quercus - Rhus - Yucca<br />
3. THE SEASIDE<br />
easide gardens are characterised by mild winters and cool summers, due to the<br />
Stempering effect of the sea which, unlike the land, holds its heat for a relatively<br />
long time. Salt laden gales are likely to be the greatest problem unless massive windbreaks<br />
are planted. Atlantic seaboard gardens will be the mildest in winter, the<br />
coolest in summer and the windiest and wettest all year. North Sea seaboard gardens<br />
will be less mild in winter, warmer in summer and dryer and better protected from<br />
the prevailing southwesterlies all the year round. Those familiar <strong>with</strong> the Isle of Wight<br />
may have witnessed the dramatic difference in coastal vegetation between the very<br />
exposed south west coast west of Blackgang and the protected north east coast<br />
between Ryde and East Cowes. Essentials for such a garden will be characterised by<br />
a resistance to salt and wind - some quite frost tender plants could also be used.<br />
RECOMMENDED ESSENTIALS :<br />
Acacias - Agaves - Aloe - Arbutus - Arundo - Astelia - Baccharis - Beschorneria<br />
- Butia - Carpobrotus - Ceanothus - Chamaerops - Choisya - Colletia - Cordyline<br />
- Corokia - Cupressus - Cistus - Dasylirion - Dicksonia - Drimys - Echeveria -<br />
Echium - Eleagnus - Eriobotrya - Eucalyptus - Euonymus - Euphorbia -<br />
Fascicularia - Fatsia - Furcraea - Genista aetnensis - Griselinia - Hebe -<br />
Hedychium - Kniphofia - Lampranthus - Laurus - Lomatia - Lyonothamnus -<br />
Magnolia delavayi - Melianthus - Muehlenbeckia - Myrtus - Olea - Phillyrea -<br />
Phormium - Pinus radiata - Pinus pinea - Pittosporum - Pseudopanax - Puya -<br />
Quercus ilex - Rhamnus - Rosmarinus - Tamarix - Yucca.<br />
4. THE HEAT ISLAND<br />
ften, the most benign climate of all. Any built up area is going to experience high-<br />
Oer temperatures than the surrounding countryside due to the presence of masonry<br />
that absorbs heat during the day and radiates heat at night plus the concentration<br />
of central heating systems, cars, people and whatever else generates heat. The larger<br />
the built up area, the greater the Heat Island Effect; in a small town, the effect is<br />
measurable, in a huge city like London the effect can be dramatic. In February 1991,<br />
one night we recorded a minimum temperature of -17°c here at the nursery in our<br />
Frost Pocket. The same night in a small back garden of a terraced house in heavily<br />
built up Central London (Notting Hill), we recorded a minimum of a mere -4°c. An<br />
extraordinary difference, the implications of which will not be lost on all ambitious<br />
gardeners. The benefits of this situation don't stop at mere warmth; no salt laden<br />
gales, no rabbits, no deer. With the addition of an automatic irrigation system to<br />
duplicate the benefits of high rainfall areas such as south-west Scotland, perfection<br />
approaches. Having established that severe frost or lack of rainfall is not going to be<br />
the problem, presumably the only restriction would be size - trees <strong>with</strong> an ultimate<br />
height of over 50ft might well be unsuitable.<br />
RECOMMENDED ESSENTIALS :<br />
Acacia - Agave - Albizia julibrissin - Arbutus - Arundo - Aspidistra - Astelia -<br />
Bamboo* - Beschorneria - Blechnum - Butia - Callistemon - Canna - Ceanothus<br />
- Chamaerops - Cordyline - Cycas revoluta - Dasylirion - Dicksonia - Echium -<br />
Eriobotrya - Euphorbia mellifera - Fascicularia - Fatsia - Genista aetnensis -<br />
Griselinia - Gunnera - Hedera - Hedychium - Holboellia latifolia - Hydrangea<br />
seemanii - Iris confusa - Laurus nobilis angustifolia - Libertia - Ligustrum<br />
lucidum - Lithocarpus edulis - Lomatia - Lyonothamnus - Magnolia - Maytenus -<br />
Muehlenbeckia - Musa basjoo - Myrtus apiculata - Olea - Phillyrea latifolia -<br />
Phormium - Pittosporum tobira - Podocarpus - Pseudopanax - Tetrapanax -<br />
Trachycarpus - Weinmannia - Woodwardia - Yucca.<br />
*see BAMBOOS on page 32<br />
5. THE PRAIRIE<br />
here are many areas of the country that are as flat as a pancake, low lying and<br />
Texposed to the wind - The Prairie. Quite difficult to find any particular advantage<br />
to a situation like this. No nasty hills to push the barrow up? It's terribly important to<br />
have some trees for shelter - you'll never have much of a garden <strong>with</strong>out a good windbreak.<br />
This might involve a conflict of interest if there's a chance of obscuring fine<br />
views - an inspection of the flat bit of garden to the east of the car park at<br />
<strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong> might serve as an inspiration as to how to tackle this problem.<br />
This garden is certainly not going to have any cold air drainage but at least there's<br />
not going to be a concentration of cold air as in the Frost Pocket. Building an exciting<br />
garden when the area's as flat as a pancake is certainly more challenging than a 45°<br />
slope.<br />
RECOMMENDED ESSENTIALS :<br />
Same sort of things as in The Frost Pocket, providing there is a good windbreak<br />
using, for example : Eucalyptus - Pinus radiata - Phillyrea latifolia -<br />
Prunus lusitanicus - Quercus ilex.
28<br />
PIGEON HOLES<br />
More Useful Suggestions about What can be grown Where<br />
ategorising plants is a hopelessly imprecise pastime; by a process of elimination<br />
Cand much cross referencing, we hope these fairly random lists help you find the<br />
plants that you really want.<br />
(Remember to check the frost hardiness using the coloured labels)<br />
An Index to the Headings<br />
1. <strong>Architectural</strong> Epiphytes<br />
2. Big Leaves<br />
3. Broadleafed Evergreen Trees over 25ft<br />
4. Broadleafed Evergreen Trees under 25ft<br />
5. Coastal Windbreaks<br />
6. Drought Resistant<br />
7. Essentials<br />
8. Good in Dense Damp Shade<br />
9. Good in Dry Shade<br />
10.Good in Pots<br />
11.Good in Pots when it's like Baffin Island outside<br />
12.Good in wet spots<br />
13.Good on Chalk<br />
14.Ground Cover<br />
15. Hedges<br />
16. Jungly & Tropical<br />
17. Lime Haters<br />
18.Long Lasting Flowers<br />
19.Mediterranean<br />
20.<strong>Plants</strong> for Frost Free Conservatories<br />
21.<strong>Plants</strong> for Masking Hideous Views as quickly as possible<br />
22.<strong>Plants</strong> that can have Architecture thrust upon them<br />
23.<strong>Plants</strong> to Evoke other Places<br />
24.Sea Side <strong>Plants</strong><br />
25.Soft and Fluffy<br />
26. Spectacular Flowers<br />
27.The Yucca Bank<br />
28. Trailers & Hangers<br />
29. Wall Shrubs<br />
30.Windy Places<br />
31.Wonderful Smells<br />
1. ARCHITECTURAL EPIPHYTES<br />
ere's an intriguing idea. The following plants are not usually epiphytic (epiphyt-<br />
Hic means, they grow on trees) but, apart from the Astelias, they are all closely<br />
related, not only to the pineapple (which is completely irrelevant anyway) but to the<br />
epiphytic bromeliads of tropical America. When one of our customers told us how<br />
his clump of Fascicularia had grown up the hairy trunk of his Trachycarpus Palm,<br />
we decided it was time to experiment. Try tying one of these into a crook of your<br />
favourite tree :<br />
Astelia chathamica - Astelia nervosa - Fascicularia bicolor - Fascicularia<br />
pitcairniifolia.<br />
2. BIG LEAVES<br />
ndulge your Big Leafist tendencies. How big is Big? Not quite sure, but here are<br />
Isome suggestions :<br />
Acanthus - Albizia - Aralia - Aspidistra - Blechnum chilense - Butia - Canna -<br />
Catalpa - Chamaerops - Cycas - Dicksonia - Echium pininiana - Eriobotrya -<br />
Fatsia - Ficus - Gunnera - Hedera canariensis - Hedychium - Magnolia delavayi<br />
- Magnolia grandiflora - Magnolia macrophylla - Melianthus - Musa -<br />
Paulownia - Phoenix - Prunus laurocerasus - Rhus - Sasa - Tetrapanax -<br />
Trachycarpus - Vitis coignetiae - Woodwardia - Zantedeschia<br />
3. BROADLEAFED EVERGREEN TREES (over 25 ft)<br />
roadleafed refers to anything other than coniferous. These are the trees, few in<br />
Bnumber, that look somewhat like a deciduous tree - but don't lose their leaves in<br />
winter :<br />
Eucalyptus aggregata - Eucalyptus glaucescens - Nothofagus dombeyi -<br />
Quercus ilex<br />
4. BROADLEAFED EVERGREEN TREES (under 25 ft)<br />
ne of the most impressive and useful of all the groups of plants - for large or<br />
Osmall gardens and many landscaping projects:<br />
Acacia - Arbutus - Azara - Daphniphyllum - Drimys - Eriobotrya - Escallonia -<br />
Eucalyptus debeuzevillei - Genista aetnensis - Griselinia - Ilex perado -<br />
Laurus nobilis 'angustifolia' - Ligustrum lucidum - Lithocarpus - Lomatia ferruginea<br />
- Lyonothamnus - Magnolia - Maytenus - Myrtus apiculata - Myrtus<br />
lechleriana - Osmanthus yunnanensis - Phillyrea latifolia - Prunus laurocerasus<br />
- Pseudopanax - Quercus myrsinifolia - Quercus suber - Trachycarpus -<br />
Trochodendron - Viburnum - Weinmannia<br />
5. COASTAL WINDBREAKS<br />
he first line of defence. Trees and shrubs to protect your garden against salt<br />
Tladen gales.<br />
Big Trees : Pinus radiata - Quercus ilex. The Rest : Baccharis - Eleagnus -<br />
Euonymus - Griselinia - Pittosporum - Tamarix
29<br />
6. DROUGHT RESISTANT<br />
rought resistant once they're established. They’re described thus because they<br />
Dhave the vigour to find water, not because they can survive <strong>with</strong>out it :<br />
Acacia - Agave - Aloe - Arbutus - Aucuba - Carpobrotus - Ceanothus -<br />
Chamaerops - Cordyline australis - Cupressus sempervirens - Cistus -<br />
Dasylirion - Echeveria - Echium fastuosum - Ephedra - Eriobotrya - Eucalyptus<br />
- Fremontodendron - Furcraea - Ficus - Genista - Iris japonica -<br />
Lyonothamnus - Mahonia - Olea - Opuntia - Phillyrea - Pinus pinea -<br />
Pittosporum tobira - Rosmarinus - Sempervivum - Tamarix - Viburnum tinus -<br />
Yucca<br />
7. ESSENTIALS<br />
hese are some of the plants that have that certain 'something' - a distinctive<br />
Tquality all of their own - strong shape, beautiful texture and they're easy to grow.<br />
Sparing you any more pretentious descriptions - they happen to be my favourites :<br />
Agave - Arbutus - Chamaerops - Cordyline - Dicksonia - Echium pininiana -<br />
Eriobotrya - Eucalyptus - Euphorbia mellifera - Genista aetnensis -<br />
Hedychium 'Tara' - Hebe parviflora angustifolia - Lomatia ferruginea -<br />
Lyonothamnus - Musa basjoo - Phillyrea latifolia - Pinus montezumae -<br />
Pinus pinea - Podocarpus salignus - Pseudosasa japonica - Tetrapanax -<br />
Trachycarpus fortunei - Yucca aloifolia - Yucca gloriosa variegata<br />
8. GOOD IN DENSE DAMP SHADE<br />
ear water, under trees, the sort of microclimate <strong>with</strong> high humidity in the air -<br />
Nnot in the ground (i.e. not in a bog) :<br />
Astelia - Crocosmia - Fatsia - Fatshedera - Ferns - Gunnera - Hedera -<br />
Lithocarpus - Luzula - Mitraria - Myrtus apiculata - Muehlenbeckia -<br />
Pileostegia - Podocarpus macrophyllus - Ruscus - Sasa - Trachycarpus - Yucca<br />
floribunda - Zantedeschia<br />
9. GOOD IN DRY SHADE<br />
he most frequent request and the most difficult to answer. These have got to be<br />
Tvery tough indeed. The Hebe deserves a special honourable mention as the most<br />
outstanding performer in this situation - an extraordinary plant :<br />
Astelia - Aucuba - Danae - Ephedra - Hedera - Hebe parviflora angustifolia -<br />
Helleborus - Prunus laurocerasus - Ruscus - Yucca floribunda<br />
10. FAIRLY GOOD IN POTS<br />
f a plant's going to succeed in a pot, it's either got to be slow growing or it's got<br />
Ito be clipped - so there's a constant relationship between the size of the roots and<br />
the amount of foliage. Topiaryis the obvious answer. Fast growing plants that<br />
attempt to grow unchecked will not look good in a pot for more than a few months<br />
and others just hate being in a pot anyway. Try these :<br />
Aeonium - Agapanthus - Agave - Aloe - Astelia - Butia - Buxus (clipped) -<br />
Chamaerops - Cycas - Eucomis - Euonymus (clipped) - Fascicularia - Fatsia -<br />
Geranium maderense - Ilex (clipped) - Ilex perado - Laurus nobilis (clipped) -<br />
Libertia - Ligustrum delavayi (clipped) - Olea (clipped) - Phoenix - Phormium -<br />
Pittosporum tobira (clipped) - Prunus laurocerasus (clipped) - Prunus lusitanica<br />
(clipped) - Pseudopanax (all species) - Puya - Rosmarinus (clipped) -<br />
Viburnum tinus (clipped) - Yucca - Zantedeschia<br />
ust because a plant is 'hardy' in the ground - it doesn't mean it will survive being<br />
J frozen solid in a pot for a month. If plants are moved under cover for the winter,<br />
they'll be fine. 'Cover' means conservatory, greenhouse, garage or shed. If you feel<br />
you’ve detected a certain luke-warmness about the subject of plants in pots, you’d<br />
be right. We’re not keen. <strong>Plants</strong> grow in the ground - not in pots.<br />
11. FAIRLY GOOD IN POTS WHEN IT'S LIKE BAFFIN ISLAND<br />
OUTSIDE<br />
f you live in a cold bit and you're not prepared to move the pots even when the<br />
Icold becomes severe (although, of course, you could so easily <strong>with</strong> one of our<br />
Barrows) you're rather limited to choice, but these do reasonably well :<br />
Aucuba - Buxus sempervirens - Ilex aquifolium - Phillyrea - Prunus laurocerasus<br />
- Prunus lusitanica - Sasa - Trachycarpus - Yucca recurva<br />
12. GOOD IN WET SPOTS<br />
ot quite a bog but getting on that way. This would include the margins of rivers,<br />
Nstreams and ponds. We prefer to call it a ‘high water table’:<br />
Acorus - Arundo - Bamboo - Crocosmia - Cyperus - Drimys -<br />
Eucalyptus aggregata - Gunnera - Luzula - Myrtus apiculata - Phormium -<br />
Taxodium - Trachycarpus - Zantedeschia<br />
13. GOOD ON CHALK<br />
any plants will tolerate a high soil pH (very alkaline), some will do quite well<br />
M<strong>with</strong> a regular dose of sequestered iron, but these are perfectly happy on a thin<br />
soil over pure chalk :<br />
Agapanthus - Agave - Arbutus andrachnoides - Asplenium scolopendrium -<br />
Aucuba - Baccharis - Bamboo - Ceanothus - Clematis - Daphne - Eleagnus -<br />
Euonymus - Euphorbia - Genista - Helleborus - Laurus - Ligustrum - Phillyrea<br />
- Prunus lusitanicus - Rhus - Rosmarinus - Viburnum - Yucca<br />
14. GROUND COVER<br />
lants that can be used to cover the ground to no more than a couple of feet.<br />
PSome will spread naturally, some will need to be planted in quantity. Don’t think<br />
that ground cover plants will suppress weeds. They just make weeding harder :<br />
Acorus - Agapanthus - Aloe aristata - Asplenium - Astelia - Blechnum -<br />
Carpobrotus - Clematis - Crocosmia - Danae - Ephedra - Euonymus 'Kewensis'<br />
- Fascicularia - Fatshedera - Hedera - Holboellia - Hydrangea seemannii -<br />
Lampranthus - Luzula - Mitraria - Muehlenbeckia - Ophiopogon - Pileostegia -<br />
Pteris - Rosmarinus 'Repens' - Ruscus - Sempervivum - Vitis - Woodwardia
30<br />
15. HEDGES<br />
mall leafed plants can be cut <strong>with</strong> a hedge trimmer, large leafed plants will need<br />
Sto be clipped <strong>with</strong> greater care <strong>with</strong> a pair of secateurs :<br />
Choisya - Bamboo - Eleagnus - Euonymus japonicus - Griselinia - Hebe parviflora<br />
- Lonicera - Phillyrea - Pittosporum - Podocarpus salignus - Prunus lusitanicus<br />
- Quercus ilex - Rhamnus - Tamarix - Viburnum<br />
16. JUNGLY & TROPICAL<br />
nfortunately we can't string you a line about how parky it gets in Barbados and<br />
Uhow a number of Caribbean plants will do just fine in Surrey. It never gets even<br />
slightly parky in Barbados and there are absolutely no Caribbean plants that have<br />
the remotest chance of lasting more than a summer in Surrey. These only look like<br />
they come from Barbados :<br />
Agave - Arundo - Aspidistra - Bamboo - Chamaerops - Clematis armandii -<br />
Cordyline - Dicksonia - Echium pininiana - Eriobotrya - Fascicularia - Fatsia -<br />
Fatshedera - Gunnera - Hedera - Hedychium - Holboellia - Magnolia -<br />
Melianthus - Muehlenbeckia - Musa - Paulownia - Phormium - Podocarpus -<br />
Prunus laurocerasus - Pseudopanax - Sasa - Tetrapanax - Trachelospermum -<br />
Vitis - Woodwardia - Yucca - Zantedeschia<br />
17. LIME HATERS<br />
hese won't tolerate any lime in the soil. Some plants are lime dislikers rather<br />
Tthan haters and can grow on slightly alkaline soil if treated <strong>with</strong> sequestered<br />
iron.<br />
Albizzia -Acacia - Azalea - Blechnum spicant - Callistemon - Camelia -<br />
Grevillea - Lithocarpus - Lomatia - Magnolia macrophylla - Mitraria -<br />
Nothofagus - Pieris - Pinus patula - Quercus myrsinifolia - Trachelospermum<br />
18. LONG LASTING FLOWERS<br />
hese have flowers that last weeks and weeks rather than days and days - often<br />
Tflowering more than once a year :<br />
Aloe - Arbutus - Beschorneria - Clematis cirrhosa - Cortaderia - Fatsia -<br />
Echeveria - Eucomis - Fremontodendron - Libertia - Ligustrum - Myrtus<br />
apiculata - Trachelospermum - Trachycarpus - Viburnum<br />
19. MEDITERRANEAN<br />
ost people visit the Mediterranean during the summer and may not be aware<br />
Mhow, apart from the coastal regions, winter temperatures can get as low as in<br />
Britain. Many of the plants we associate <strong>with</strong> the Mediterranean, grow well in this<br />
country and <strong>with</strong> their toughness, a Mediterranean Garden is easy to create :<br />
Acacia - Aeonium - Agapanthus - Agave - Albizia julibrissin - Arbutus - Arundo<br />
- Beschorneria - Butia - Callistemon - Ceanothus - Chamaerops - Cistus -<br />
Citrus - Cordyline - Cupressus sempervirens - Cycas revoluta - Dasylirion -<br />
Echeveria - Echium - Eriobotrya - Eryngium - Eucalyptus - Euphorbia -<br />
Fremontodendron - Genista - Grevillea - Hedera - Hedychium - Kniphofia -<br />
Lyonothamnus - Magnolia - Melianthus - Musa - Myrtus - Olea - Opuntia -<br />
Phillyrea - Phoenix - Pinus pinea - Puya - Quercus ilex - Quercus suber -<br />
Rosmarinus - Strelitzia - Tamarix - Tetrapanax - Trachycarpus - Yucca<br />
20. PLANTS FOR FROST FREE CONSERVATORIES<br />
ur own and our customers' experience of growing things in conservatories don't<br />
O entirely coincide <strong>with</strong> the image often portrayed by conservatory manufacturers<br />
and glossy magazines - that they create an ideal environment in which exotic<br />
plants will thrive. Many conservatories are ill ventilated and over exposed to the<br />
sun, making a hostile, rather than an ideal environment, for plants. The plants dislike<br />
it and the bugs love it - an often disastrous cocktail. Despite this, we feel we<br />
can accommodate these problems by giving sound advice on the best plants, names<br />
of suppliers of Biological Pest Controls and other useful tips :<br />
Acacia - Aeonium - Agapanthus - Butia - Canna - Colocasia - Cordyline - Cycas<br />
- Cyperus - Echeveria - Fascicularia - Furcraea Geranium - Hedychium - Musa<br />
- Olea - Pittosporum tobira - Phoenix - Puya - Trachelospermum<br />
21. PLANTS FOR MASKING HIDEOUS VIEWS AS QUICKLY<br />
AS POSSIBLE<br />
creening plants. Something we get asked for an awful lot. Often asked <strong>with</strong> a<br />
Snote of desperation. For 'Hideous view', more often than not, we regret to report,<br />
read 'Neighbour'. Whither the milk of human kindness and chummy neighbourliness?<br />
Fast growing, fairly tall and evergreen :<br />
Arundo (not evergreen but big and alarmingly fast - for desperados) - Bamboo -<br />
Eucalyptus - Hebe parviflora angustifolia - Ligustrum lucidum - Pinus species<br />
- Sequoia<br />
22. PLANTS THAT CAN HAVE ARCHITECTURE THRUST<br />
UPON THEM<br />
hat can this phrase that sounds so highly suspect mean? Left to their own<br />
Wdevices, some plants will grow into sprawling, shapeless messes. Ruthless<br />
pruning can produce standard, single or multitrunked and extremely architectural<br />
little trees. Not only is this great fun but the difference can be dramatic - rather<br />
pedestrian little shrubs blossom into distinguished and dignified little trees of great<br />
character. The room for experimentation is massive but here are some suggestions<br />
of ones we've tried:<br />
Aralia - Arbutus - Ceanothus - Eriobotrya - Euonymus - Fatsia - Genista aetnensis<br />
- Griselinia - Laurus nobilis 'angustifolia ' - Ligustrum lucidum -<br />
Lithocarpus - Magnolia grandiflora - Myrtus apiculata - Osmanthus yunnanensis<br />
- Phillyrea latifolia - Pinus pinea - Pittosporum - Poncirus - Prunus laurocerasus<br />
- Prunus lusitanica - Rhamnus - Rhus - Tamarix - Viburnum tinus
31<br />
23. PLANTS TO EVOKE OTHER PLACES<br />
ecause of the exotic looking nature of many of our plants, it's easy to use them<br />
Bin the garden to create a feeling of being 'somewhere else'. To help accomplish<br />
this, look under the headings (21) MEDITERRANEAN, (18) JUNGLY & TROPICAL,<br />
(30) THE YUCCA BANK.<br />
24. SEA SIDE PLANTS<br />
ough as old boots, able to <strong>with</strong>stand the ravages of salt laden gales but never<br />
Tsubjected to severe frost. All these plants are stocked at the Horsham nursery<br />
but we specialise in them at the Chichester nursery (see the map on the back for<br />
details):<br />
Agave - Aloe - Araucaria - Arbutus - Arundo - Baccharis - Beschorneria -<br />
Carpobrotus - Chamaerops - Cistus - Cordyline - Corokia - Cortaderia -<br />
Dasylirion - Echeveria - Echium - Eleagnus - Euonymus - Euphorbia -<br />
Eryngium - Fascicularia - Furcraea - Genista - Griselinia - Hebe - Kniphofia -<br />
Lampranthus - Muehlenbeckia - Phillyrea - Phormium - Pinus radiata -<br />
Pittosporum - Puya - Quercus ilex - Rhamnus - Tamarix - Viburnum - Yucca<br />
25. SOFT AND FLUFFY<br />
ight and airy. Feathery leafed and small leafed plants that create the perfect foil<br />
Lfor the very strong shapes of the spiky plants :<br />
Acacia - Albizia - Azara - Bamboo - Cistus - Genista - Geranium maderense -<br />
Grevillea - Hebe parviflora angustifolia - Lomatia - Lyonothamnus - Maytenus -<br />
Pinus - Podocarpus salignus - Tamarix<br />
26. SPECTACULAR FLOWERS<br />
uge flowers, copious quantities of flowers and flowers <strong>with</strong> strong colours -<br />
Hmostly reds, yellows, blues and white :<br />
Acacia - Agapanthus - Beschorneria - Callistemon - Canna - Ceanothus -<br />
Cynara - Echium - Eucomis - Fascicularia - Fremontodendron - Furcraea -<br />
Genista aetnensis - Hedychium - Kniphofia - Lobelia tupa - Magnolia -<br />
Paulownia - Phormium - Puya - Yucca - Zantedeschia<br />
27. THE YUCCA BANK<br />
our own little bit of Tresco. Given a well drained south facing bank, these plants<br />
Ycreate an extraordinarily exotic sight, summer or winter. A large concentration<br />
of strong shapes <strong>with</strong> contrasting textures looks particularly good at night, floodlit :<br />
Aeonium - Agave - Aloe - Astelia - Beschorneria - Carpobrotus - Chamaerops -<br />
Cordyline - Dasylirion - Echeveria - Ephedra - Eryngium horridum - Euphorbia<br />
- Fascicularia - Furcraea - Geranium maderense - Kniphofia - Lampranthus -<br />
Opuntia - Phormium - Puya - Sempervivum - Yucca<br />
28. TRAILERS & HANGERS<br />
preading ground cover, completely prostrate never more than a few inches tall<br />
Sbut capable of cascading down walls or hanging in curtains, if given the opportunity<br />
:<br />
Carpobrotus - Ephedra - Euonymus kewensis - Euphorbia myrsinites - Hedera<br />
- Lampranthus - Muehlenbeckia - Rosmarinus 'Repens'<br />
29. WALL SHRUBS<br />
hat is a wall shrub anyway? This sounds like it must be a man made invention.<br />
WThey're the plants that lend themselves to being trained and tied to a wall,<br />
covering it, <strong>with</strong>out actually attaching itself to it :<br />
Acacia - Albizia julibrissin - Ceanothus - Fatshedera - Fremontodendron -<br />
Magnolia grandiflora<br />
30. WINDY PLACES<br />
his usually applies to gardens on the coast or on hills. <strong>Plants</strong> <strong>with</strong> very large<br />
Tleaves must be avoided as they'll be ripped to pieces, the plants described under<br />
(5) COASTAL WINDBREAKS, (24) SEA SIDE PLANTS and (27) THE YUCCA<br />
BANK are, of course, very wind resistant, but here we list :<br />
1. Some more plants that are pretty good in windy gardens :<br />
Agave - Araucaria - Arbutus andrachnoides - Arundo - Callistemon -<br />
Ceanothus 'Concha' - Colletia - Eleagnus - Eucalyptus - Euonymus - Genista -<br />
Laurus - Magnolia delavayi - Maytenus - Muehlenbeckia - Olea - Phillyrea -<br />
Phormium - Pinus - Quercus - Rhamnus - Tamarisk - Viburnum - Yucca<br />
2. A very short list of hurricane resistant species :<br />
Carpobrotus edulis - Puya alpestris - Tamarisk - Yucca gloriosa<br />
31. WONDERFUL SMELLS<br />
major contribution to any garden are the scents of the flowers and the leaves. In<br />
Athese lists, flowers or leaves that have questionable pongs, have not been<br />
included - Choisya and Viburnum tinus to name but two :<br />
1. Flowers : Acacia - Azara microphylla - Clematis armandii - Colletia -<br />
Cordyline australis - Daphne odora - Eleagnus - Eriobotrya - Euphorbia mellifera<br />
- Hedychium - Holboellia latifolia - Magnolia grandiflora - Myrtus -<br />
Osmanthus - Pittosporum tobira - Trachelospermum<br />
2. Leaves : Cistus - Cupressus - Escallonia resinosa - Eucalyptus - Ficus carica<br />
Laurus - Lyonothamnus - Rosmarinus
32<br />
BAMBOOS : CLIMBERS : FERNS : PALMS : YUCCAS<br />
These lists are designed as a quick reference to 'see what they've got' plus a<br />
few tips on cultivation<br />
BAMBOOS<br />
amboos, like any grass, will grow fast if given lots of moisture during the grow-<br />
Bing season and masses of food, between March and September. In order for it to<br />
become established as fast as possible, it's essential to restrict competition from<br />
other plants - keep young plants clear of anything (grass in particular), 3 ft in every<br />
direction. Treat your lawn like this and you'll never stop mowing it, but treat your<br />
bamboo like this and it'll look beautifully green and lush from one end of the year to<br />
the other.<br />
he Phyllostachys bamboos and the Semiarundinaria are different from the rest.<br />
TThe individual canes are bigger, more spaced out and more obviously branched.<br />
Like the others, they can be well fed and left to their own devices <strong>with</strong> occasional<br />
'Brown Bitting' (removal of old and dead bits). Alternatively, if you enjoy a more<br />
Japanese approach, much fun can be had <strong>with</strong> the creative use of a pair of secateurs.<br />
Each year when the new canes emerge from the ground, leave the biggest and<br />
best and cut off the smaller, unwanted ones. This way the 'mass' of growth is maintained<br />
but it's all concentrated into a smaller number of canes. The result is fewer<br />
but much bigger canes - depending on how ruthless you were to start <strong>with</strong>. Larger<br />
canes will not produce branches for the first few feet, exposing their decorative<br />
bases to view. Try it - it's a wonderful introduction to all sorts of possibilities of 'creative<br />
maintenance' in the garden. Something the Japanese have been doing for centuries<br />
but us Europeans have only ever applied to rose bushes and fruit trees!<br />
Enormous (could reach 25 ft or more) :<br />
Phyllostachys aureosulcata 'Aureocaulis' - Phyllostachys nigra - Phyllostachys<br />
pubescens - Phyllostachys vivax - Semiarundinaria fastuosa<br />
Big (could reach 18 ft) :<br />
Phyllostachys aurea<br />
Medium (could reach 12 ft)<br />
Pseudosasa japonica<br />
Small (10 ft or under)<br />
Fargesia murieliae - Pleioblastus variegatus - Sasa palmata<br />
Well behaved (not too much spread) :<br />
Fargesia murieliae - Phyllostachys aurea - Semiarundinaria fastuosa<br />
Spreading (pretty badly behaved) :<br />
Sasa palmata<br />
CLIMBERS<br />
ost climbers are happy on a wall of any aspect - north, south, east or west, but<br />
Mif you want them to flower, stick them on a warm south or west wall<br />
Clematis armandii - Clematis cirrhosa - Fatshedera - Hedera - Holboellia -<br />
Hydrangea seemannii - Muehlenbeckia - Pileostegia viburnoides -<br />
Trachelospermum - Vitis coignetiae<br />
FERNS<br />
erns like a quiet, fairly shady spot in moist soil containing lots of organic matter.<br />
FTheir liking for very good drainage is demonstrated by the fact that, in nature,<br />
they are nearly always found growing on steep banks:<br />
Asplenium scolopendrium - Blechnum chilense - Blechnum spicant -<br />
Dicksonia antarctica - Dryopteris erythrosora - Matteuccia - Osmunda regalis<br />
- Polystichum munitum - Polystichum setiferum - Polystichum setiferum<br />
‘Plumosum’ - Polystichum polyplepharum - Woodwardia<br />
here seems to be much confusion about the growing of the Tasmanian Tree<br />
TFerns, Dicksonia antarctica, in South-East England. We don't subscribe to the<br />
belief that they're particularly hardy in Britain - personal experience has shown that<br />
a succession of cold winters will polish them off. Understanding that their natural<br />
habitat is in evergreen temperate rain forest, helps. Given a position in shade and<br />
very well protected from the wind, under tall evergreens, is best. It's rarely humid<br />
enough in Britain during the summer, so frequent spraying of the trunks <strong>with</strong> water,<br />
or, rigging up an irrigation system to automatically water the trunk helps. Pouring<br />
extremely dilute sea weed extract into the centre of a tree fern, from time to time,<br />
during the growing season seems to have sensational results. In Central London<br />
winter protection is unnecessary, but in cold rural areas (such as Nuthurst), bales<br />
of straw must be used to protect the plant during the winter - usually, for January<br />
and February only.<br />
PALMS<br />
ur logo's a Palm Tree and we stock quantities of the two hardy palms<br />
O(Trachycarpus and Chamaerops), but here's our entire complement :<br />
Butia capitata - Chamaerops humilis - Jubea chilensis - Phoenix canariensis -<br />
Trachycarpus fortunei (stripped trunk and <strong>with</strong>out) - Trachycarpus wagnerianus<br />
YUCCAS<br />
uccas are divided into two distinct types as described in 1 & 2 below. As well as<br />
Yregular feeding <strong>with</strong> 'Blood, Fish and Bone' (for example) to get lots of lush<br />
growth, by far the most important part of successful Yucca cultivation is the oft<br />
mentioned technique known as BROWN BITTING - removal of the brown bits and<br />
spent flower spikes before they are fully faded (to prevent unsightly build up of rotten<br />
old flowers) and removal (by cutting) of unsightly, dying or dead leaves :<br />
1. Those that form a trunk and branch after flowering :<br />
Yucca aloifolia - Yucca aloifolia variegata - Yucca floribunda - Yucca gloriosa -<br />
Yucca gloriosa variegata - Yucca recurva<br />
2. Those that form a clump of several trunkless plants together. When an individual<br />
<strong>with</strong>in the clump flowers, it dies, to be replaced by a new plant from underneath :<br />
Yucca filamentosa & Yucca flaccida - two rather unexciting plants, neither of<br />
which we sell.
33<br />
GOODS AND SERVICES from<br />
ARCHITECTURAL PLANTS,<br />
OTHER THAN SELLING PLANTS<br />
THE ARCHITECTURAL PLANTS<br />
BARROW<br />
(Heavy Plant Crossing)<br />
idely acclaimed as being the ultimate two<br />
Wwheel barrow for moving any heavy<br />
load, but, specifically designed to move large<br />
plants in large terracotta pots.<br />
The entire frame is galvanised, it has 16" diameter<br />
wheels <strong>with</strong> pneumatic tyres and we make<br />
it in a wide version (33") or a narrow version<br />
(28"). It has a carrying capacity of 10 cwt<br />
(500kgs)<br />
Price : £275 (Inc. VAT).<br />
Delivery (U.K. mainland) : £55 (Inc. VAT)<br />
SHAPING TOOLS<br />
he clipping tools are all beautifully engi-<br />
Tneered and will enhance the quality of your<br />
topiary - whether Japanese or not. Visit<br />
www.niwaki.com for further details of both ladders<br />
and clippers - or phone us on 01403<br />
891772<br />
ARCHITECTURAL PLANTS GIFT<br />
VOUCHERS<br />
e sell a lot of these. If you want to give a<br />
Wplanty sort of present to a friend but<br />
are confused by our peculiar range of plants,<br />
take the sensible way out!<br />
We write and print each Voucher individually.<br />
The essence of it is ",,,this piece of paper entitles<br />
you to go and help yourself to £x worth of<br />
plants at <strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong>...".<br />
You phone us up, we discuss the (brief) wording<br />
and the amount, you give us a Credit Card<br />
number, we send the Voucher and a Catalogue<br />
to the recipient. Easy.<br />
JAPANESE LADDERS<br />
e sell a range of the remarkable Kyatatsu<br />
Waluminium ladders up to 3.6 metres tall.<br />
They’re ridiculously light, strong and easy to<br />
use and we feel that they’ve opened up all<br />
sorts of clipping possibilities that were previously<br />
only open to owners of JCB Teletrucks<br />
and Hydraulic Cherry Pickers.<br />
VARIOUS POTS<br />
e sell a small range of classic English<br />
WTerracotta pots from Whichford in<br />
Warwickshire and a range of faux copper and<br />
iron pots by Bill Harling. Faux because they’re<br />
actually made of fibre glass - clever though -<br />
you wouldn’t know.
34<br />
DELIVERY BY US<br />
e take this subject seriously. Badly organ-<br />
Wised deliveries can spoil our reputation<br />
and ruin your day. We'll discuss <strong>with</strong> you, in the<br />
minutest detail, how to get your plants from us<br />
to you, in safety, using one of our of liveried<br />
vehicles, a variety of ingenious mechanical contraptions<br />
and intelligent, thoughtful drivers who<br />
understand their role in the business. Ask for a<br />
quote. There are alternatives :<br />
MAIL ORDER BY CITY LINK - AN ACT OF FAITH<br />
he plants are beautifully packed in our specially made boxes and kept upright<br />
Tthroughout their journey. The service is<br />
guaranteed next day delivery and on the very<br />
rare occasions a plant is damaged - we replace<br />
it immediately and City Link's Insurers pay! If<br />
you order your plants between Monday and<br />
Wednesday, you'll receive them the following<br />
day. We recognise the faith you're putting in us<br />
(buying plants unseen) and therefore try hard<br />
to choose the best plants we have in stock, to<br />
send you. Proud as we are of this service, we<br />
regret that it’s more prescriptive than it used to<br />
be - plants can only be sent by City Link if they<br />
are less than 4ft. tall, including the pot. You’ll<br />
need to speak to us about sizes. Please note<br />
that orders for dispatch by City Link are taken<br />
at and sent from our Chichester nursery. Tel :<br />
01243 545008 Ask for Rebecca Carter.<br />
The minimum cost for this delivery service is<br />
£30 per box - typically about 6 plants in 3 litre<br />
containers - and £50 for two boxes. These prices only apply to mainland Britain;<br />
please ask us to quote for other places.<br />
D.I.Y. DELIVERY - HIRE A VAN<br />
ot such a silly idea. We boast about the enormous number of plants we can<br />
Npack in the back of an average hatchback, but when did you last hire a van? Not<br />
only do you avoid our delivery charge, you get your plants immediately, you enjoy a<br />
better view than from a car and (providing it's white) all other road users flee from<br />
your path in terror. Good fun. Try Thrifty Car Hire - Tel : 01494 751500 for their<br />
nearest van depot.<br />
CARE NOTES<br />
s far as we know, we're the only nursery that<br />
Aprovides printed information <strong>with</strong><br />
tips and instructions on how to look after the<br />
plant you've just bought and information about<br />
how the plant was propagated. This happens<br />
automatically if plants are ordered and dispatched<br />
- if you buy direct from the nursery, you<br />
can help yourself. Racks of Care Notes on the<br />
nursery are pictured on the left.<br />
GARDEN DESIGN, PLANTING & CREATIVE MAINTENANCE<br />
his is a side of the business that’s beginning to rival the nursery itself in impor-<br />
Ttance and the subject is covered in great detail between pages 17 and 24 of this<br />
catalogue.<br />
NICE CUP OF TEA / ESPRESSO / APPLE<br />
any customers visit us from far afield. We are flattered that they should come<br />
Mso far and do our best to make them<br />
feel welcome. At the Horsham Nursery,<br />
apart from having the use of "...arguably<br />
the most beautiful lavatory in Europe",<br />
there are several pubs and restaurants<br />
offering good lunches <strong>with</strong>in close range<br />
(see Where To Lunch on page 35), there's<br />
always an invitation to make yourself a cup<br />
of tea or coffee or browse through the<br />
books, press cuttings and pictures. At the<br />
Chichester Nursery, there are also good<br />
lunches available from the local pubs, coffee<br />
is always available and a chance to go<br />
through an album of pictures of the plants<br />
that we sell, as well as masses of advice.<br />
And the lavs? Well, they’re MUCH better<br />
than they used to be...
35<br />
WHERE TO LUNCH<br />
Lunching near the Horsham Nursery :<br />
The Black Horse, Nuthurst RH13 6LH : Walking distance. Under new<br />
management. Good.<br />
The White Horse, Maplehurst RH13 6LL : 1 mile away. Friendly pub.<br />
Beth’s chilli is delicious.<br />
The Half Moon, Warninglid RH17 5TR 01444 461227 : 4 miles away.<br />
Busy, friendly pub <strong>with</strong> great food. Can book if required.<br />
Lunching near the Chichester Nursery :<br />
The Old Stables, Fontwell BN18 0SY : 2 miles away on the A29. Pub<br />
<strong>with</strong> restaurant attached.<br />
The Robin Hood, Shripney PO22 9PA : 1 mile away. Pub <strong>with</strong><br />
restaurant attached.<br />
Denmans Garden BN18 0SU : 3 miles away on the A27 at Fontwell.<br />
Restaurant / Cafe at John Brookes’ famous garden.<br />
NAVIGATION NOTES / HOW TO FIND US<br />
ARCHITECTURAL PLANTS, Nuthurst, Horsham, West Sussex<br />
RH13 6LH Tel : 01403 891772<br />
HOW TO GET THERE : In normal traffic, we're 1 hour from Putney<br />
Bridge, Greenwich Park, Heathrow or the Dartford Crossing and 25<br />
minutes from Brighton.<br />
From the North : Use the M23 (Brighton Road), go through Handcross<br />
village (the exit is south of junction 11), follow the signs to Horsham<br />
down the B2110. Turn right on the A281. Second left is signed to<br />
Nuthurst. After 1.2 miles we're on the left just after the Black Horse Pub<br />
in Nuthurst. Look out for the Brown Tourist Signs on the A281.<br />
From the South : The Nuthurst road is north of the A272 some 2 miles<br />
west of Cowfold. You'll find us 2.4 miles from the A272 on the right, just<br />
past the Church.<br />
Look out for the Brown Tourist Signs on the A272<br />
Memo to all navigators : Avoid Horsham at all costs or you may never be<br />
seen again ("I'm just going into Horsham, I may be some time...")<br />
BY TRAIN : An increasingly sensible option. 50 minutes from Victoria to<br />
HORSHAM, usually pretty quiet during the day. Taxis always waiting during<br />
the week (£10 each way).<br />
OPENING HOURS : Every day from 9-5 except Sundays (closed). All<br />
Bank Holidays except December 25/26 and January 1st. Tel : 01403<br />
891772<br />
ARCHITECTURAL PLANTS (CHICHESTER), Lidsey Road Nursery,<br />
Woodgate, Chichester, West Sussex PO20 3SU Tel : 01243 545008<br />
HOW TO GET THERE : On the west side of the A29 at Woodgate, 100<br />
yds south of the level crossing, next to the Prince of Wales Pub. Look out<br />
for the Brown Tourist Signs by the entrance. The long straight drive goes<br />
up to enormous greenhouse, right in front of you. This is 2.2 miles from<br />
the Fontwell Racecourse and the A27.<br />
From the Main Nursery at Nuthurst : South to the A272, turn right. Left<br />
onto the A24. Right at roundabout, down the A283 to Storrington. Left at<br />
garage down the B2139. Over the river, up the hill and join the A29. Stay<br />
on the A29 and use the instructions above. A pleasant 35 minute drive<br />
through The Downs<br />
BY TRAIN : An increasingly sensible option. 1⁄÷ hours on the fast train<br />
from Victoria to BARNHAM JUNCTION. Taxis always available (£10 each<br />
way). We organise the taxi to pick you up from the nursery.<br />
OPENING HOURS : Every day from 10-4 except Saturdays (closed).<br />
Closed on all Bank Holidays except Good Friday. Tel : 01243 545008
36<br />
OPENING HOURS<br />
<strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong> (Horsham) - Closed on Sundays<br />
Open every day from 9 to 5 except Sundays. We open on all Bank<br />
Holidays except December 25th / 26th and January 1st.<br />
01403 891772<br />
<strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong> (Chichester) - Closed on Saturdays<br />
Open every day from 10 to 4 except Saturdays. Closed on all Bank<br />
Holidays except Good Friday. Late opening is possible but by prior<br />
arrangement please.<br />
01243 545008<br />
<strong>Architectural</strong> <strong>Plants</strong><br />
Our attention to detail has taken us where others don’t go.<br />
No garden too small - No garden too big<br />
PRICES<br />
We have a tradition of growing many of our plants in a variety of<br />
different sizes to suit various needs and various pockets.<br />
A visit to either nursery is made simple by the fact that all plants<br />
are named, described and priced in individual batches.<br />
Availability should always be checked prior to a visit but to give you<br />
an idea, below we list the different sized pots we use and the price<br />
range that any of our plants are likely to fall <strong>with</strong>in :<br />
3 Litres : £7.50 to £10.75<br />
7.5 Litres : £16.50 to £24.50<br />
15 Litres : £42.50 to £57.50<br />
30 Litres : £65.00 to £117.50<br />
43 Litres : £141.00 to 235.00<br />
There are many plants we grow to larger sizes than this<br />
(see page 16).<br />
The prices of these larger plants tend to range<br />
from £275 to Four Figure Sums.<br />
Phone or e-mail and we’ll tell you what we have available. Better<br />
still, visit the nursery.<br />
We suspect we have the most beautifully presented nursery in<br />
Britain.<br />
Come and see.<br />
THE NINETEENTH <strong>IMPRESSION</strong> January 2011<br />
The Catalogue was written and typeset by Angus White on 'Quark 4' using an<br />
Apple Macintosh G5. The typeface is Fenice<br />
The cover design was by Jim Kane : The illustrations were by Paul Cox<br />
The <strong>photos</strong> were by Christine Shaw, Angus White & Others<br />
The printing was by Chris Daniels<br />
The Wizard Wheeze program for the nursery was written by<br />
Vuk Milutinovic on 'File Maker'<br />
www.architecturalplants.com