Lush & Efficient PDF Version - Coachella Valley Water District

R e v i s e d E d i t i o n 

Lush & 

Efficient 

Landscape Gardening in the Coachella Valley 

Coachella Valley Water District

L ush & Efficient 

Landscape Gardening in the Coachella Valley 

R e v i s e d E d i t i o n 

Coachella Valley Water District 

I RO N WO O D P R E S S 

T u c s o n , A r i z o n a

Coachella Valley 

Water District 

Coachella Valley Water District, 

CVWD, is a local government 

agency controlled by 

five directors elected by the 

registered voters within its 

1,000 square mile service area. 

That area in the southeastern 

California desert extends from 

west of Palm Springs to the 

communities along the Salton 

Sea. It is located primarily in 

Riverside County but extends 

into Imperial and San Diego 

Counties. 

Peter Nelson, President 

Patricia A. “Corky”Larson, 

Vice President 

Tellis Codekas, Director 

Russell Kitahara, Director 

John W. “Jack” McFadden, 

Director 

Steve Robbins, General Manager- 

Chief Engineer 

Dennis C. Mahr, Director of 

Communications and Legislation 

Dave Koller, Conservation 

Coordinator 

Text Copyright © 1988, 2001, 

2006 


All rights reserved. No part of 

this book may be reproduced 

in any form or by any means, 

electronic or mechanical, 

including photocopy, without 

written permission from 

Coachella Valley Water District. 

Printing 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 

Printed in Korea 

The information in this book is 

true and accurate to the best of 

our knowledge. It is offered 

without guarantees on the part 

of the authors and the publisher, 

who disclaim any liability in 

connection with the use of this 

information. 

Published to promote wise 

water use as a public 

service by Coachella Valley 

Water District. 

Address inquiries to: 



PO Box 1058 

Coachella, CA 92236 

A version of this 

publication appears on 

the internet at http:// 

www.cvwd.org 

Cover photo by 

Scott Millard 

Primary photography by 

Scott Millard: © pages 5, 7, 8, 9, 

10 (right), 11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 

20, 21, 22 (left), 23, 24, 25, 26, 

27, 28, 35, 38, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45 

(top & lower right), 46 (top left, 

bottom center & bottom right), 

47 (bottom left inset, bottom 

right & upper right), 48 (left & 

upper left), 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 

55 (left & center inset & right), 

56 (lower left), 57, 58 (upper 

left & lower right), 59 (upper 

right & lower right), 60 (upper 

left & right), 61, 62, 63 (lower 

left), 64 (lower left & right), 

65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71 (lower 

left & lower right), 72 (upper 

& lower left), 73 (upper left), 

74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79 (upper left, 

upper right & lower right), 80, 

81, 82 (top left & center), 83, 84 

(right), 85, 86 (top left, center 

left & right), 87, 88, 89 (bottom 

left, upper right & lower 

right inset), 90, 91 (lower left 

& right), 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 

98, 99 (upper left, lower left 

& lower right), 100, 101, 102 

(left & center), 103, 104, 105, 

106, 107, 108 (left & upper 

left), 109, 110 (left, upper left 

& right), 111, 112 (upper left & 

right), 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 

118 (lower left & lower right), 

119, 120, 121 (center & upper 

right), 122, 123, 124 (upper & 

lower left, lower center & lower 

right), 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 

130, 131 (upper, lower left & 

right), 132, 133, 134, 135, 136, 

137, 141, 143, 144, 145, 146, 147, 

148, back cover (lower left) 

Additional photography by 

CVWD: © pages 1, 4, 6, 10 

(left), 12, 22 (right), 29, 37, 45 

(left), 46 (bottom left), 47 (bottom 

left), 48 (right), 56 (upper 

left, center & right), 58 (lower 

left), 59 (upper left), 63 (lower 

right), 64 (upper left), 71 (upper 

right), 72 (upper right), 73 

(upper right), 82 (bottom left, 

right), 84 (left), 86 (bottom left), 

89 (bottom right), 91 (upper 

right), 108 (right), 110 (center), 

112 (lower left), 118 (center 

right), 121 (left), 124 (upper 

center & upper right), 131 

(center), 138, 139, 140, 149, 151, 

back cover (top) 

Macore Company: © page 73 

(lower left) 

Janet Rademacher: © pages 60 

(bottom left), 79 (center), 99 

(upper right), 102 (right), 118 

(upper left, upper right) 

Kira Rodriguez: © page 55 

(center) 

Acknowledgements 

Directors and staff of the 


extend their gratitude to Scott 

Millard of Ironwood Press 

in Tucson, Ariz., for bringing 

this revised book to fruition. 

Scott and primary author Eric 

A. Johnson were partners at 

Ironwood Press and published 

several excellent desert landscaping 

books together before 

Eric’s death. In this second 

revised edition, Scott has significantly 

revised the plant 

palette with the guidance of 

CVWD’s water conservation 

staff to add newly introduced 

material and eliminate some 

that weren’t as well adapted to 

the harsh growing conditions 

of the Coachella Valley. 

CVWD directors and staff also 

extend their gratitude to the 

staff of The Living Desert in 

Palm Desert for maintaining 

healthy examples of most of the 

plants found in this book and 

for allowing the water district 

to use Living Desert facilities to 

conduct its annual homeowners' 

landscape workshops. 

Ironwood Press acknowledges 

Jacqueline A. Soule, 

PhD, Tucson, Arizona, for her 

contributions in researching 

and writing descriptions of 

the many new plants in this 

edition, as well as updating 

information on irrigation and 

landscaping. 

A special thank you goes to 

Ann Copeland, now retired 

from CVWD. An educational 

specialist who taught water 

science to the children of 

Coachella Valley, she took on 

the additional responsibility 

of working closely with Eric 

Johnson, reading his text and 

identifying photos to illustrate 

it. She also worked closely 

with contributing author Dave 

Harbison in developing and 

improving the district's landscape 

workshops that supplement 

this publication. 

CVWD staff who contributed to 

the success of this publication 

include Dave Koller, conservation 

coordinator; Jim Weston, 

water management specialist; 

Dennis Mahr, director of communications 

& legislation; Dave 

Anderson, photographer; Bob 

Keeran, multimedia specialist, 

and Kevin Hemp, education 

specialist. 

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data 

Johnson, Eric A. 

Lush & efficient : landscape gardening in the Coachella Valley/ 

Eric A. Johnson, David Harbison, Scott Millard.--Rev. ed. 

p. cm. 

Includes bibliographical references and index. 

ISBN-13: 978-0-9762336-1-9 

ISBN-10: 0-9628236-6-X (first edition of lush & efficient) 

1. Desert gardening--California--Coachella Valley. 2. Desert 

plants--California--Coachella Valley. I. Harbison, David, 1943-II. 

Millard, Scott. III. Title. IV. Title: Lush and efficient. 

SB427.5.J63 2006 

635.9’5250979497--dc22 

2006023701

C o n t e n t s 

The Desert Gardening Difference....................4 

Ingredients of a Desert Garden................07 

Landscaping for Climate Control...........10 

Grouping Plants by Sun & Water Need....12 

Selecting and Buying Plants...................14 

Pruning by the Seasons.........................15 

Planting Step by Step............................16 

Fertilizing.............................................18 

Mulching to Save Water.........................18 

Controlling Insect Pests.........................19 

Preventing and Controlling Diseases......20 

Weed Control........................................21 

Month-by-Month Gardening Calendar 

for the Coachella Valley......................21 

Water-Efficient Irrigation...............................26 

Using Technology to Tell How Much 

and When to Water.............................29 

Designing a Water-Efficient 

Irrigation System....................................30 

Irrigation System Components...............30 

Irrigation Guide for Landscape Plants....32 

Daily Irrigation Schedule for Turfgrass...34 

Installing Your Irrigation System........... 35 

Retrofitting an Irrigation System........... 39 

Maintaining and Troubleshooting 

Your Irrigation System............................39 

Success with Desert Plants............................42 

Introduction.........................................43 

Trees.....................................................44 

Shrubs..................................................68 

Ground Covers.....................................94 

Vines...................................................100 

Cacti and Succulents...........................106 

Ornamental Grasses............................118 

Perennials...........................................120 

Annuals............................................128 

Landscapes & Special Gardens....................136 

Planning Your Landscape....................137 

Landscaping Near Pools and Patios.....140 

Small Lawns for Landscapes................142 

Container Gardening...........................143 

Vegetable Gardens...............................145 

Fruits—Trees and More.......................147 

Citrus.................................................147 

A Dry Creek for Your Landscape..........150 

Creating a Wildlife Habitat..................150 

Glossary.................................................152 

Resources...............................................154 

Public Gardens.......................................155 

Index......................................................157

u 

c h a p t e r o n e 

u 

The Desert Gardening 

Difference 

Desert gardens can be lush and efficient. Contrary to the image of 

a desert landscape consisting only of cacti, boulders and gravel, 

many native and introduced dry-climate trees, shrubs, vines, 

ground covers and perennials have lush foliage, distinctive forms and 

showy flowers. In fact, a great many native Southwest desert plants provide 

even more color and interest over longer periods than their introduced 

tropical or subtropical counterparts. 

About this Book 

This book offers alternatives to high-water, high-maintenance landscapes 

in the Coachella Valley, typified by tall oleanders for screening and wind 

protection, formal trimmed hedges, large, thirsty canopy trees, expansive 

lawns and masses of spring annuals. New plants, new designs and new 

methods abound for area landscapes. Inside this book, you’ll discover ideas 

for gardens that are a harmonious blend of the old and new: subtropical 

plants in a private patio garden, set off by a small lawn for close-up viewing 

and barefoot pleasure. This type of small yet luxurious garden, called a 

mini-oasis, is located where it can be most enjoyed—up close to the house 

and outdoor living areas. 

Those who prefer low-maintenance gardening in tune with the desert 

environment may plant native and introduced, low-water-use trees, shrubs 

and ground covers, with cacti and succulents for accents. Building earthen 

mounds and dry creek beds and adding naturalistic groupings of boulders 

is just one method of creating an appealing focal point that requires little 

water and care. 

The permanent resident can plan and plant for year-round enjoyment, 

while the seasonal visitor can create gardens that bloom for selected months 

during spring. How these gardens are created is up to individual tastes and 

budgets. 

High-water use plants such as hibiscus, azaleas and philodendron typically 

have soft tissues that require regular moisture to survive. Many sub- 

Left: Adapted low-water-use 

plants can thrive in even the 

most rugged locations. These 

brittlebush shrubs are growing 

in their native habitat 

near Palm Desert. 

Above: White primrose 

and purple sand verbena 

announce the arrival of spring 

in the Coachella Valley. 

The Desert Gardening Difference u

tropicals and tropical plants (nurserymen nickname 

them “the green stuff”) are native to regions receiving 

50 to 150 inches of rainfall annually. In the high temperatures 

and often low humidity of Coachella Valley 

summers, few introduced plants of this kind can survive 

without regular applications of water and shelter from 

sun and wind. 

Water-efficient natives and many introduced plants 

indigenous to low rainfall areas of the United States, 

Australia, Africa and the Mediterranean region can be 

grown successfully in the Coachella Valley. Such plants 

have the proven ability to survive on little moisture after 

they have lived a year or two in the garden. Their physical 

makeup allows them to develop leaves, branches 

and roots that conserve what water becomes available. 

Some adjust to dry spells by going dormant until the 

next rain or irrigation. Acacias, mesquites, palo verdes, 

African sumac, sennas, Texas ranger, crape myrtle 

and Mexican bird-of-paradise are part of this group. 

Subtropical bougainvilleas, strangely, flower better 

when plants are stressed for water. 

Overwatering often creates serious problems. A fine 

line exists between the correct amount and excessive 

moisture. Although newly planted plants need regular 

attention to water needs, it is helpful to keep established 

plants on the dry side. Encourage deep and well established 

roots with deep irrigations. Plants are more selfreliant 

when they become conditioned to extreme heat, 

drying winds and cold. 

The Economics of Landscape Water Use 

Most of a homeowner's water use can be traced to use 

outdoors rather than indoor use. In fact, it’s estimated 

that up to 80 percent of urban water consumption in the 

Coachella Valley occurs outside the house. 

To reduce water bills, many have opted for a “minimalist” 

landscape—a few cacti adorning decorative 

gravel. Others, recognizing the physical and psychological 

cooling affects of lush landscaping, plant tropical 

paradises. Unfortunately, these types of landscapes 

require huge volumes of water just to keep plants alive 

through Coachella Valley's scorching summers. 

However, home gardeners can have the best of both 

worlds—lush plantings that thrive with an efficient irrigation 

program. The formula includes selecting waterefficient 

plants, grouping plants of similar water needs, 

and proper installation and maintenance of an irrigation 

system. 

The Coachella Valley is home to a wide range of climate and soil conditions. Selecting adapted plants and 

planting them properly will go a long way toward achieving success with your gardens and landscapes. 

u The Desert Gardening Difference

Ingredients of a Desert Garden 

Heat 

When summer temperatures reach 90°F to 120°F and 

humidity is low, the toll on young plants can be severe 

in a number of ways. 

Temperatures in the upper layer of soil can increase, 

quickly killing new, shallow roots of annuals and perennials. 

Signs are brown leaf edges and wilting of new 

growth. In areas of sandy, rapid-draining soils, plants 

suffer due to rapid drainage of moisture away from the 

root area. 

High heat is most stressful on plants grown in nurseries 

located in more temperate climates along the 

coast, then brought inland to the desert. The sun’s 

intensity due to reflected heat from walls and windows 

adds to the stress, especially June through September 

with a western exposure. Details on how to develop a 

landscape that creates shade to reduce energy costs is 

described on pages 10 to 12. 

Cold Temperatures 

Coachella Valley frost patterns generally occur more 

frequently in lower elevations on clear and windless 

nights. Dry air temperatures drop about one degree for 

every 350 feet decrease in elevation. Cold air draining 

down mountain slopes usually settles in washes and in 

low pockets. 

One sign of a potential for frost is when temperatures 

drop to 50 degrees before 9 p.m. in a clear sky and 

no wind. Average date for the first killing frost in the 

Coachella Valley is November 21, with the last frost 

around March 15. 

During periods of low temperatures, tender plants can 

be protected by covering root areas with 2 to 3 inches 

of an organic mulch such as bark or aged, composted 

manures. Cold-tender plants in containers should be 

moved under the shelter of a wide overhang, patio overhead 

or canopy-shaped tree. 

When selecting plants, be aware of their inherent 

hardiness to frost. (The cold hardiness of each plant 

described in this book is provided in the chapter 

Success with Desert Plants, pages 42 to 135.) One of 

the best methods of learning which plants are cold 

hardy enough to use in any landscape is identifying 

established, healthy plants in older gardens in the surrounding 

area. 

Wind 

The flow of winds and accompanying sand is one of the 

most trying experiences for gardeners in the Coachella 

Valley. Plants can help curtail the bite of wind and sand 

in the form of dense windbreaks (see pages 11 to 12). 

They must be tall enough to reduce the wind’s force. 

Wind patterns coming through San Gorgonio Pass 

fluctuate with westerly storms and coastal fogs. They 

are most prevalent during late winter and spring months. 

Dust and sand begin to move when the wind reaches 15 

miles per hour (mph) or more. Mild dust storms may 

develop at 20 mph. Severe sand storms, which can create 

havoc with windshields, paint, people and plants, 

usually develop at 30 mph or more. 

Local winds contrary to the westerly flow often are 

stirred by the development of low-pressure areas in the 

lower desert or are brought in by tropical chubascos, 

storms originating off the west coast of Mexico or 

southwest of San Diego. 

If winds are common in your area, locate plants in 

the garden with the wind factor in mind. In general, 

windbreaks should be sited perpendicular to prevailing 

winds. Fortunately, the flow of sand decreases with 

each new development, which helps anchor sand dunes. 

Walls, fences, hedges, lawns, gravel and ground covers 

also reduce the problem. 

Coachella Valley Soils 

Experienced dry-climate gardeners realize the impor- 

Cold-tender plants such as citrus are more likely to 

escape frost damage in landscapes located at the valleyÕs 

highest elevations, or on slopes, which allows 

cold air to drain down and away from plantings. 


tance of managing soil, water and plants successfully. 

Fortunately, valley soils can easily be made more productive. 

In upland and eroded areas of the valley, soils 

are shallow and require more work to become acceptable 

for plant growth. 

Caliche, also called hardpan, is a cementlike layer 

of calcium carbonate that accumulates below the soil 

surface. It can be a few inches thick to several feet thick, 

and is often encountered on slopes or flat areas. If a 

gardener's shovel bounces back when it strikes the soil, 

test for caliche. Pour vinegar or acid onto the area. If it 

bubbles, it’s caliche. 

Soils in the Coachella Valley fall into definite categories. 

Areas west of Palm Canyon Drive and south of 

Highway 111 in Palm Desert are sandy to rocky due to 

the area’s alluvial structure. In some coves, wind-blown 

sand covers much of the ground. East of Palm Canyon 

Drive and north of Highway 111, most soils are predominantly 

sandy. In all instances, drainage of moisture 

is usually adequate. 

Slow-draining soils can be found in La Quinta and 

points south. Here, gardeners must break through layers 

of silt or clay before water can drain. Silty sand builds up 

a crust that practically seals itself when water is applied. 

Commercially available soil penetrants made of sulfur 

compounds can be effective in combating this problem. 

Digging extra-wide planting holes and setting plants a 

bit higher when planting allows moisture to drain away 

from the plant’s crown. These methods are necessary in 

La Quinta and some lower elevation regions. 

Organic Materials: Mulches and Additives 

The addition of organic materials such as ground bark, 

composted manures and planter mixes aid desert soils. 

Mixed thoroughly into the soil, these materials retain 

moisture aerate clay soils and provide roots with a better 

growing environment. 

Mulching and additives can: prevent soil crusting, 

curtail weed growth, reduce need for cultivation, reduce 

water use and lower soil temperatures. Materials gener- 

In many parts of the Coachella Valley, soils are almost pure sand. These conditions require that plants be given 

frequent irrigations due to the rapid drainage. 

u The Desert Gardening Difference

ally available include packaged composted ground bark, 

cotton seed hulls and composted sawdust. In extremely 

windy areas, adding a layer of gravel helps to hold the 

mulch in place. 

Working soil additives into planting beds makes sand 

and loam soils better at retaining water. Soil around 

new plants should be blended well with existing soil. 

Be aware that you must add enough material to substantially 

change the soil’s composition. The small chart on 

page 15 will give you a guide as to how much a 2-cubic 

foot bag of soil amendment will cover. Prepare soil a 

few weeks before planting to allow additives to better 

incorporate into existing soils. 

The pH of desert soils is often alkaline, caused by 

an accumulation of sodium and calcium. Due to low 

rainfall, these two elements don't adequately leach, or 

wash away, if soils are heavy. Fertilizer such as ammonium 

sulfate or soil sulfur, worked thoroughly into the 

soil, helps lower the pH, typically to 7.2. Deep watering 

in soil that has good drainage also helps alleviate the 

problem. 

Salinity, or salts, can be a problem in heavy soils if 

there is not enough rainfall to move salts down and 

away from plant roots. Farmers flood fields to leach 

salts into underground drains. Adding iron sulfate or 

soil sulfur to planting areas can help the residential gardener 

combat salt buildup. 

Many desert areas on alluvial slopes, areas of young, 

rocky soils at the base of mountains, have deep strata 

of decomposed granite, commonly referred to “D.G.” 

These soils have been created by extreme water action 

of storms and the resulting runoff. Drainage is rapid. 

Plant roots grow well in such soils if given adequate 

moisture. However, when dry, alluvial soil is difficult to 

work. Mixing in soil additives and adding water to soil 

before digging and planting can help. 

Left: Mixed thoroughly into the soil, organic materials 

retain moisture and provide roots with a better growing 

environment. Plants growing in close proximity to one 

another such as vegetables, annuals and garden perennials 

benefit from amendments. Many soil amendment 

products are available at garden centers or nurseries, or 

you can make your own compost. 

Above: Compost is one of the best mulches and soil 

amendment available. In addition, a compost pile is 

excellent for recycling yard wasteÑgrass clippings, 

leaves, pruned twigsÑthat would ordinarily find its way 

to a landfill. This simple compost pile takes up little 

space and is easy to make with cinder blocks. 


Research shows that trees and shrubs strategically located 

around buildings dramatically reduce cooling costs. 

This tree is Acacia aneura, mulga acacia. 

Landscaping for Climate Control 

When you live in a hot desert climate such as that of 

the Coachella Valley, you probably spend more money 

to cool your home than to heat it. And, as mentioned in 

the introduction, outdoor water use can be as much as 

80 percent of a home’s water consumption. Energy and 

water prices have been increasing and are likely to continue, 

prompting residents throughout the Southwest to 

find ways to conserve them both. There are some simple 

ways to conserve energy by using water-efficient plants 

in combination with appropriate landscape and irrigation 

system design. 

How Plants Modify Climate 

You’ll quickly feel the drop in temperature on a hot day 

when you walk beneath the shade of a dense tree. Trees, 

shrubs and ground covers can greatly reduce cooling 

loads of buildings in hot, arid climates by modifying air 

temperatures and solar heat gain. 

You can design or retrofit a landscape to keep cooling 

costs reasonable. Locating trees, shrubs and vines so 

they will shade homes can effectively lower the energy 

required to cool a home. 

Shading air-conditioning units can reduce their workload, 

making them more energy-efficient. 

Plants also cool air around homes through the process 

of evapotranspiration. The evaporation of moisture at 

the leaf surface cools the air around the leaf. Research 

has shown that trees and shrubs placed in key locations 

around a home can reduce cooling requirements up to 

24 percent. A mature, wide-canopy, shade tree placed to 

shade the south and west walls and roof of a home can 

cut cooling costs up to 42 percent. 

It is necessary to know where the sun is in the sky 

when temperatures are at their hottest. The goal is to 

position plants so they will block the sun’s rays. The 

path of the sun during summer is much higher than it is 

during winter. This means that summer sunshine tends 

to warm the east and west walls, as well as the roof. 

Winter sunlight strikes mostly south-facing walls. 

Trees—Trees provide direct shade for outdoor spaces, 

walls, windows and the roof area of a home. The 

choice of tree types for summer shade could be either 

evergreen, where trees remain in leaf all year, or plants 

that are deciduous, when leaves drop and branches 

are bare in winter. In colder areas, it’s a benefit to use 

deciduous trees. The bare branches during winter allow 

warming sunlight to reach walls and windows. 

Keep in mind that many trees take five years or more 

10 u The Desert Gardening Difference

Oleander is a common windbreak in the Coachella 

Valley, but a recent viral infection has caused many 

stands to decline and die. See page 12 for a list of other 

suitable windbreak plants. 

to provide any measurable shade. Some deciduous trees 

provide a shade canopy cover twice as fast as some 

evergreens. (Note: The relative growth rate of many 

trees are provided in the descriptions on pages 44 to 

67.) 

Ground Covers—Ground covers decrease heat around 

a structure and on walls and windows, thereby reducing 

cooling costs. In place of a sea of gravel, a landscape 

composed of ground covers, a small lawn and shrubs 

will greatly reduce heat gain around a home. The benefits 

of this cooling outweigh the additional cost of 

water to establish and maintain the plants. 

Windbreaks and Hedges Help Control Climate 

Windbreaks have long been a part of the history of the 

Coachella Valley. In the past several decades, thousands 

of acres of orchards, date groves, vineyards, vegetable 

crops and small villages were developed from the 

Salton Sea to Palm Springs. Windbreaks of many kinds 

were planted to reduce the impact of wind and blowing 

sand. For example, without the blow-sand control 

offered by the rows of tamarisk windbreaks planted by 

Southern Pacific, railroad tracks would be quickly covered 

by sand dunes. 

Development in the Coachella Valley continues to 

claim large acreages of sand dunes up to and across 

Interstate 10. The need for controlling blowing sand 

and dust becomes even more important as government 

laws for clean air controls are implemented to reduce 

the impact of blowing sand and dust. 

Windbreaks also help control the burning and desiccating 

effects of the intense summer sun by creating 

cooler, sheltered small climates called microclimates. 

The single, double- or triple-hedge creates a more 

gentle climate around a home that allows more fragile 

plants to grow and thrive. 

Windbreak Basics 

Consider the intensity of the afternoon sun, heat and 

direction of wind when you locate trees and hedges for 

windbreaks, hedges and screens. One clue is to notice 

how plants are shaped (leaning) due to prevailing wind 

patterns. 

Divert wind with height and density. Tall trees—to 40 

feet or more high—can reduce wind velocity as much as 

50 to 200 yards downwind. Study existing windbreaks 

in the region that are effective in helping control and 

divert wind. How are they placed, and which plants are 

being grown What is the spacing between plants 

Multiple-trunk trees generally maintain better verti- 

The photos above are the same windbreak near Indio, taken 7-1/2 years apart. Screening was used the first years 

after planting to protect citrus until trees attained sufficient size. 

The Desert Gardening Difference u 11

It helps to understand how exposureÑnorth, south, east or westÑinfluences plant growth. South and west exposures 

are much warmer, plus reflected sun in these exposures can quickly damage unadapted plants. The ocotillo and 

bougainvillea shown in this home landscape will accept the intense heat of a western exposure. 

cal growth under the stress of wind. Even with dense 

foliage, pines and cypress withstand heavy or constant 

winds with a rugged persistence. 

All windbreak trees must have deep irrigation to survive. 

Drip irrigation has proven to be ideal in helping 

trees develop deep roots. 

A triangulated pattern with 12- to 18-foot spacing of 

Trees and Shrubs for Windbreaks 

Acacia aneura, Mulga Acacia 

Brachychiton populneus, Bottle Tree 

Ceratonia siliqua, Carob 

Cupressus arizonica, Arizona Cypress 

Cupressus glabra 'Gareei', Rough Bark Cypress 

Eucalyptus microtheca, Coolibah Tree 

Eucalyptus spathulata, Swamp Malee 

Pinus eldarica, Afghan Pine 

Pinus pinea, Italian Stone Pine 

Rhus lancea, African Sumac 

trees, with lower ground level 10- to 12-foot shrubs and 

conifers with great density, can create a strong barrier 

against wind. 

Grouping Plants by Sun and Water Need 

Plants that are efficient users of water employ many tricks 

to stay alive. Some go dormant in the summer. Others 

have modified leaves that conserve available moisture. 

Leaves may have a small surface area; be it thick, waxy 

or leathery; or fuzzy or hairy. Other plants have green 

trunks and branches that carry out photosynthesis. Still 

others have well developed, deep root systems designed 

to absorb available moisture. Some have seasonal adaptations. 

For example, deciduous plants may require more 

water in summer, but survive on much less water in 

winter. 

Often, a plant’s water needs change as they begin to 

mature. Many fast-growing young plants require a lot of 

water the first few years, but as growth slows with age 

and a deep root system develops, they may require only 


Microclimates, the small climates around your home, 

can be used to your advantage. This protected spot is 

an ideal location for cold-tender plants. 

occasional deep watering. 

It is important to keep in mind that not all native plants 

use less water than plants introduced from another region. 

Some plants native to riparian (streamside) areas, such as 

cottonwoods, are high water users with aggressive roots. 

Matching the Plant with the Exposure, 

The Exposure with the Plant 

Plants are born with inherent tolerances to light and 

heat. When you have a location at your home in mind 

as to where you want to place plants, understand the 

exposure—north, south, east or west—and select a plant 

that accepts the growing conditions there. This method 

usually works better than buying a plant you like and 

trying to find a proper exposure to match. Here are the 

common exposures, and what plants will have to tolerate 

to survive: 

South and West—The west exposure with its intense 

afternoon sun is by far the most difficult growing location. 

During the summer months the searing heat can overcome 

many plants. A south location has the benefit of being 

warm in winter, receiving sunshine during all seasons. 

Only sun- and heat-loving plants will thrive when planted 

in a south or west exposure. 

East—The east side of a building or wall is probably the 

ideal exposure for most sun-loving plants. Some plants 

Shade cast by trees or buildings create cooler, more 

protected planting sites. Eastern exposures are wellsuited 

for plants that wilt in full sun. 

may be heat-tolerant, yet are easily burned by direct, hot 

afternoon sun. Such plants will thrive along the east side 

of a structure, where forgiving shade is cast during the 

afternoon. Plants that tolerate some shade also belong in 

this exposure. 

North—The north side must be used for shade-loving 

plants, but during midsummer months, it, too, receives 

some sun. Certain plants in this north exposure may need 

protection from the afternoon or morning sun during 

this period. Plants with limited heat tolerance belong on 

the north side of structures or trees. When working with 

this group, be aware of any reflected heat from adjacent 

sidewalks, driveways, streets, masonry walls or water 

features. 

Expand planting areas for the most sensitive plants by 

taking advantage of shade from trees and structures. The 

filtered shade of a canopy-forming tree such as many 

acacias, mesquite or palo verdes becomes an ideal place 

for plants prone to sunburn. This is especially true if they 

are in containers, which eliminates the problem of roots 

competing for water. Extremely sensitive, cold-tender 

plants should be potted so they can be moved to appropriate 

protection as seasons change. These plants must be 

located carefully, considering the variables of their exposure, 

spacing, cold tolerances and water requirements. 

Not all are thirsty! 


Hydrozoning: Grouping Plants by Water Use 

Grouping plants according to their moisture needs is 

called hydrozoning. This helps in the design and application 

of drip-irrigation systems, which are just as valid 

for low-water-use natives and other dry climate plants 

as for subtropicals requiring high water applications. 

Plants with the highest water use should be closest to 

the area where you spend the most time outdoors, such 

as planting areas near patios and at home entrances. 

This high-water zone is the prime location for annuals 

and luxuriant, water-thirsty subtropicals and other highwater-use 

plants. Some people also call this a minioasis, 

creating a cooling, colorful oasis of plants. 

Vigorous, unfussy shrubs and trees, such as the sennas, 

Texas rangers and mesquites, are planted in the 

moderate-water zone. 

In dry climates, the low-water zone is usually farthest 

from the house and water supply. Plants are not usually 

viewed close up. For this reason they can have coarser 

textures, and do not have to be maintained at optimum 

water applications. 

Selecting and Buying Plants 

When buying plants, keep in mind that extremely large 

plants such as boxed trees take much longer to become 

established than a plant set out from a 5-gallon or 15-gallon 

container. Unless extremely slow-growing by nature, 

a smaller plant usually establishes itself faster than a 

larger one, and may even outgrow it. A smaller plant has 

the added advantage of reduced cost, and usually reacts 

more favorably to transplanting than a larger plant of the 

same species. 

Mail-order plants—These are often shipped from suppliers 

in the Midwest or East, and generally arrive too 

late in the growing season for Coachella Valley gardens. 

Order only if the shipper will guarantee delivery for planting 

in January or February. 

Bare-root plants—Roses, grapes, and selected fruit and 

shade trees are generally available “bare root” in nurseries 

from December through February. They are graded 

by trunk diameter and height. Medium-sized plants are 

preferred for planting. 

Flats, pots, packs and quarts—Nurseries usually supply 

annuals, perennials and ground covers in these types 

of containers. Avoid plants that seem overgrown for their 

container, that are heavy with mature flowers, or are too 

succulent. Select plants with fresh growth and are adorned 

with buds ready to bloom. 

Gallon, 5-gallon, 7-gallon and 15-gallon containers—Pass 

on plants that have heavy pruning cuts, or are 

oversized or root bound. If containers are filled with roots, 

When shopping for plants, keep in mind that smaller plants generally establish faster and transplant easier than 

larger plants of the same species. Look for uniform, healthy growth, and avoid plants that are root bound. 


How Many Plants do you Need 

100 plants . . . 

Spaced 4 inches apart will cover 11 square feet. 







How Much Soil Amendment do you Need 

2-cubic foot bags . . . 

1 bag covers 175 square feet 1/6 inch deep. 

1 bag covers 54 square feet 1/2 inch deep. 

1 bag covers 27 square feet 1 inch deep. 

plants are probably stunted and seldom develop normal 

growth. (Trees often become overgrown in containers.) 

Also avoid plants with sunburned trunks, cracked trunks, 

severely trimmed branches or binding tree ties. The best 

and healthiest specimens will have fresh, new, vigorous 

growth. 

24- to 60-inch boxed trees—These are often fieldgrown, 

then transplanted into boxes to establish and 

regrow. 

When shopping for plants, consider the following 

important aspects of knowing and understanding plant 

performance. Get to know: 

o Size and width at 5 years, 10 years, maturity 

o Rate of growth: slow, moderate, rapid 

o Flowering habit, bloom period 

o Foliage type: coarse, medium, fine 

o Water requirement: low, moderate, high 

o Nutrient needs: native plants require minimum 

o Preferred soil type and soil drainage requirement 

o Exposure: reflected sun, sun, filtered shade, shade 

o Hardiness to cold, heat, wind 

o Relationship to other plants: “plant partnerships” 

o Ideal planting season 

Pruning by the Seasons 

When you prune, you are directing plant growth. It is 

important to keep some key rules in mind that will help in 

maintaining or modifying the plant’s structure. 

Through all seasons in Coachella Valley, plants have a 

greater vitality when given reasonable care and supplied 

with adequate moisture. Pruning, shaping, thinning and 

dead-heading flowers become important regular aspects 

of plant maintenance—more important than many gardeners 

realize. 

There is a lack of understanding by many people 

concerning how to maintain water-efficient plants in dry 

climate regions. Proper pruning, thinning and trimming 

promotes healthy, attractive growth, maintains a natural 

form and reduces garden work, as well as debris. 

Some Pruning Basics 

Good pruning and shaping techniques begin with plant 

selection. The gardener must consider rate of growth 

and mature size; plant form and texture; location related 

to sun, shade and soil type; flowering habit and spacing 

for width, height and proximity to structures, walks and 

pedestrian traffic areas. 

Poor pruning practices are often perpetuated by a lack 

of knowledge about plant growing habits and flowering 

periods. Contributing to the problem is the over-planting 

of many new gardens, done to achieve an immediate 

mature effect. 

Follow these guidelines to help gain an understanding 

of this most misunderstood gardening practice. 

o Cold-hardy plants can generally be pruned in late fall 

to early winter. Subtropical and tropical plants respond 

better when pruned in late spring and early summer. 

Prune carefully to direct growth and to control wayward 

branches. Gloves help this gardener protect his hands 

from the sharp thorns of bougainvillea. 


Planting Step by Step 

1. Plant as soon as possible after purchasing to prevent 

drying out of the rootball. Best idea is to dig 

planting holes before buying plants. Prior to planting, 

water the container well to ensure the rootball soil is 

moist. Remove the plant from the container. If plastic, 

turn upside down and knock the edge against a hard 

surface to gently slip the rootball out. Handle plant 

carefully by its rootballÑnot by the stemÑthis helps 

avoid injuring the roots. 

2. Dig holes for plants so they are at least three times 

wider than the rootball. It helps root growth if the 

ground is loosened beyond a plantÕs drip line, the 

area near the perimeter where rainfall will naturally 

drip off the plant to the ground. Fill hole with water to 

moisten the surrounding soil before planting. If water 

does not drain in an hour or two, dig deeper for more 

adequate drainage or select another planting site. 

3. Place rootball in planting hole and add soil mixture, 

firming it around the rootball. Water plant and 

add soil mixture around the sides to eliminate air 

pockets. After soil settles, add more soil so that it 

reaches the top of rootball. 

4. Use soil to build a basin around the perimeter of 

the rootball. It should extend to about three times the 

size of the rootball. Make the height of the basin so it 

will hold at least 3 inches of water. If planting a tree 

that needs support to stand on its own, supply two 

stakes, and tie them loosely to tree as shown above. 


o Remove broken, diseased or dead wood from trees 

and shrubs at any time. 

o Remove crowded stems and weak growth to help 

plants develop balanced structure and form. 

o Naturalistic pruning—light, selective removal of 

branches and limbs, allows plants the opportunity to 

grow as nature intended. Hedge-sheared plants are 

robbed of their individuality, flowers and natural beauty. 

o Cut stem stubs close to a main stem to aid healing. 

o Nip tips of new growth to increase bushiness. 

o Fast-growing trees such as the many acacias, elm, 

eucalyptus, mesquite, palo verde, and bottle brush need 

thinning to reduce chances of wind damage. 

o Remove sucker growth on trees to prevent branch 

growth in the wrong locations. Pull, rather than cut, for 

best results. 

o Pruning citrus trees requires a special approach. For 

detailed information, see page 149. 

o Pruning tools work much better when you keep them 

sharp. Also be sure to use the right size pruning tool for 

the job. 

o Better plant shape and regrowth develops when plants 

are pruned gradually over a period of time in contrast to 

once-a-year heavy pruning. As a rule, remove no more 

than 20 percent of the plant’s foliage at any one time to 

avoid stress and sunburn of trunk and branches. 

It is seldom too late to correct past pruning errors. 

Plants have a great ability to recover from poor pruning. 

You can improve their appearance with time and 

adequate care. 

Topping Trees 

Tree topping, also called heading, refers to the removal 

of major portions of the tree’s crown by cutting branches 

to stubs or to the main trunk. This type of negative 

pruning is most conspicuous on eucalyptus and mulberry 

trees. 

This mutilation results in clusters of stems emerging 

below the stub cuts, creating excessive, small, weak 

branches that later become vulnerable to breakage. The 

new growth can increase wind resistance, as the mass 

of branches become a “sail” in the wind, often causing 

extensive damage or loss of the tree. On a small scale, 

topping creates openings for invasion of rotting organisms. 

Stubbing branches also upsets the entire growth 

pattern of the tree. Over a period of time, the tree will 

generally decline in beauty and effectiveness, with a 

decrease in monetary value by 20 to 50 percent. 

The Irrigation and Pruning Connection 

The relationship of irrigation and pruning is a close one. 

The amount of water applied directly affects the amount 

of pruning needed. Overwater, and growth can be too 

lush and succulent. Underwater, and plants become 

You can improve the appearance of many ground covers by cutting 

them back every few years, preventing dead stems from mounding. 

Baccharis at left was cut back, shows fresh new growth. 

Avoid topping trees. It ruins the treeÕs 

form, shortens its life and may cause it to 

become a hazard. 


stressed, reducing healthy growth and inviting attacks 

from pests and diseases. 

Proper irrigation is one of the most important elements 

of growing healthy trees. Deep watering with 

drip irrigation that places moisture deep in the root 

zone is recommended. It can be provided by an irrigation 

schedule that takes into account the size of a tree 

and its root system. Trees in turf areas without drips or 

bubblers often have problems related to surface roots, 

and lack deep roots to help stability and resistance to 

heavy winds. 

Fertilizing 

In many parts of the Coachella Valley, sandy soils 

and rock-and-sand soil combinations are common. 

They have excellent drainage qualities, but tremendous 

amounts of water must be applied frequently to keep 

plants alive when temperatures are high. Rapid soil 

drainage and frequent irrigation leaches (washes) plant 

nutrients, particularly nitrogen, away from plant roots. 

This results in a need to replenish these nutrients more 

often. 

Because of the rapid leaching of nutrients from the 

root zone, you get better results by applying fertilizers 

more often and in smaller doses. Adding soil amendments 

in the form of organic materials is also useful to 

counter nutrient loss from leaching. Ground bark and 

compost are examples of materials to add to the soil to 

help retain valuable moisture and nutrients. 

The availability of fertilizers packaged for specific 

plant types and uses reduces the need to do your own 

mixing of nutrients. Commercially available citrus 

food, rose food, palm food and lawn fertilizer make 

fertilization programs simple. In all instances, closely 

follow all product label instructions. 

After many years of testing in commercial projects 

and in nursery growing operations, slow-release fertilizers 

have become useful products for the home gardener. 

They can be added safely to the soil mix at planting 

time in close proximity to plants’ roots. They provide 

proper nutrients over many months, reducing time and 

expense while improving plant growth. 

Fertilizing According to Plant Type 

New plantings of shrubs and trees will accept a wellbalanced 

application of organic plant food by the second 

or third month after planting. Azaleas, camellias 

and gardenias generally need acid-type nutrients when 

plants complete their bloom cycle. Continue applications 

monthly through summer. Citrus trees maintain a 

good growth pattern when fertilizers are applied regularly 

from February to the first part of September. Roses 

need a steady diet from early spring into late fall, based 

on their bloom cycle. It is helpful to remember that 

when roses complete a bloom period, it’s time to apply 

a balanced rose food. 

Lawns respond with vigorous growth when given high 

nitrogen fertilizers. For Bermudagrass lawns, provide a 

monthly application through the warm months. For 

ryegrass, fertilize through the cool months. Fertilizing 

properly helps keep a lawn healthy, and helps prevent 

weeds from becoming established. 

Deep-rooted trees often require deep applications of 

nutrients. This can be achieved by placing three or four 

slow-release tablets into 12- to 18-inch-deep holes dug 

into the soil around the dripline. Deep watering is also 

essential. 

Annuals, perennials, and ground covers often have 

shallow roots, so pelletized types of fertilizer are safest 

to apply. Neglecting fertilizer applications can cause 

slow growth to the point where plants become stunted. 

Liquid organic fertilizers are easy to use. The reaction 

period is fast and safe, and they can be applied more 

often. Dichondra lawns, ground cover plantings, and 

newly planted annuals and perennials respond readily 

and favorably to liquid fertilizers. As with all fertilizer 

products, read and follow product labels carefully. 

As mentioned, continuous leaching can cause problems 

in availability of nutrients in the soil. Plants show 

a need by a yellowing of leaves, called chlorosis. It can 

be caused by the lack of available iron or other elements 

in the soil. In such cases it can easily be identified: Leaf 

veins remain green while the rest of the leaf turns yellow. 

Apply iron chelates as soon as it is noticed. 

Fertilizers continue to be improved by manufacturers. 

They are becoming more specialized for various kinds 

of plants. Seek advice from your nursery on the current 

fertilizers that may be best suited for the plants you are 

growing. 

Mulching to Save Water (and More) 

Covering the soil with a layer of organic material prevents 

soil from crusting, which reduces the need to cultivate. 

Mulching also improves soil structure and lowers 

soil temperatures. 

A layer of mulch should be about 3 inches thick. In 

large open areas, mulches can help reduce weed populations 

and add a decorative covering. 

Mulches cool the upper layers of soil. The sun can 

bake the top inches of soil, damaging fragile roots that 

grow near the surface. Soil temperatures in mulched 

areas can be 8 to 10 degrees cooler compared to soils 

without mulch. 

Mulches maintain uniformity of soil moisture more 


contact with stems and trunks of plants, or fungus and 

disease problems may occur. 

Controlling Insect Pests 

In many cases you can identify insect culprits by the 

damage they inflict on leaves and other plant parts. 

Fortunately, the number of pests in the Coachella Valley 

are seasonal and the majority of native shrubs, trees 

and ground covers are bothered by few, if any, insect 

invaders. 

A simple layer of mulch over the root area of plants 

helps in many ways. It conserves moisture by reducing 

evaporation, insulates the upper layer of soil, and cuts 

down on weed growth. Over time, an organic mulch 

will decompose, helping improve the soil. 

readily. In areas where a silty layer of soil affects the 

flow of water into lower layers of soil, a mulch reduces 

the air-tight silt layering, allowing moisture to penetrate 

to lower layers. 

Materials that are generally available as mulches 

include organic matter such as ground bark, composted 

redwood sawdust and compost. Gravel or rock are 

coverings and do not improve soil structure. Bark chips 

and bark chunks can be used, but when kept moist, they 

turn an unattractive gray color in just one season. Strong 

winds, common in the Coachella Valley, can also blow 

them away from plantings. Animal manures are not 

satisfactory as a mulch due to problems with salt accumulation. 

They should also be well-composted before 

applying around plants. 

As mulches decompose and combine with the soil, 

it is necessary to replenish them. Mulches that tend to 

remain soggy should not be allowed to come in constant 

Sucking Types of Pests 

Aphids leave their mark with curled leaves, distorted 

new growth and damaged flower buds. Their first arrival 

coincides with the burst of new growth in the spring, their 

most vigorous period of activity. Aphids come in many colors—black, 

green and yellow—and can literally cover lush 

tips of new leaves and stems. 

Because injury is caused by their sucking of vital juices, 

you can control them with sprays. Sprays can be systemic, 

which means that they are absorbed by the plant and kill the 

pests when they tap into the sap of the plant. Other sprays 

kill insects by contact. 

To avoid killing natural predators such as ladybird beetles 

(ladybugs) with an insecticide meant for aphids, you can 

wash off the pests with a blast of water from a garden hose. 

Spray as soon as you see evidence of their activity and 

repeat twice weekly while pests are active 

Aphids prefer roses, some annuals, new growth on 

pyracanthas, oleander and even citrus. Vigorous-growing 

plants such as oleanders usually have no problem outgrowing 

their damage. 

Spider mites cause leaves to be mottled, stippled and 

sometimes turn yellow. Most damage occurs with arrival 

of hot weather. Shaking suspect leaves over a clean sheet 

of white paper will show spider mites if they are present. 

They are so tiny that a magnifying glass must be used to 

see them in detail. 

Mites attack citrus, and are common pests on conifers 

such as Italian cypress and prostrate junipers. Follow the 

same controls as with aphids. If infestations are severe, 

treat with a miticide. However, the best defense is a good 

offense. Keep plants watered properly, not too much or not 

too little, and they will be more healthy and resistant to pest 

attacks. 

Chewing Types of Pests 

Thrips are practically invisible, but leave behind their 

marks on the surface of leaves and fruit, causing them to 

form streaky, distorted scar tissue. Their most active period 

begins during the warming trend in early summer and again 

in early fall. Controls are the same as with aphids and spider 


Be on the lookout for aphids in early spring. They love 

to attack tender new growth. 

Ladybird beetles (ladybugs) are beneficial insects, preying 

on insect pests such as aphids (left). 

mites. 

Beetles, caterpillars and grasshoppers leave behind ragged 

chewed-out spots on leaves and flower buds. Some critters 

even roll up leaves; others cut off stems of succulent annuals 

below the soil line. 

Many systemic controls are available. Other controls are 

sprayed on leaves and stems to kill on contact. 

Lawn moths and their caterpillars are only evident when 

you see the moths flying around at dusk over the grass, 

preparing to lay eggs. The caterpillars that hatch from these 

eggs do the actual damage. Apply controls to the grass. In 

severe or questionable situations, contact a local nursery for 

the most current controls available. Improvements of sprays 

and dusts are being made continually. 

Caution: The incorrect use of pest control chemicals 

can be extremely dangerous and hazardous to plants, pets 

and people. Read all product labels and follow instructions 

carefully. 

Preventing and Controlling Diseases 

A preventive control program is probably the best method 

to reduce fungi or other plant diseases on susceptible plants. 

Major plant diseases in the Coachella Valley often involve 

citrus, oleander, roses and annuals such as petunias, vincas, 

and zinnias. 

Poor soil drainage—made worse when excessive soil is 

piled high on the crown at the base of a tree—as well as 

sunburn damage to stems, can bring on gummosis disease 

on citrus. Indications of this disease are the formation of 

lesions in the bark near the bases of stems. Discolored sap 

may flow from the infected area. For controls, see Citrus, 

page 150. 

Overhead watering of roses in the evening hours during 

periods of high humidity can bring on mildew. You’ll see 

it as a gray, powdery covering on new foliage and buds. 

Apply sprays or powders to treat at first sight. Avoid by 

watering at ground level and during early morning. Zinnias 

and grapes are also susceptible to mildew. It may be helpful 

to grow plants or varieties that are less susceptible. Contact 

your nursery or cooperative extension office for recommendations. 

Oleander leaf scorch deserves special mention. It’s a 

bacterial disease believed to be spread by the glass- winged 

sharpshooter, a native leafhopper insect. Symptoms are 

brown leaf tips, with dieback first spreading to branches, 

then to the entire plant. The bacteria shuts down the 


plant’s water-conducting system, eventually killing the 

plant. Currently, plants 20 to 30 years old are most affected. 

In addition to oleanders, other plants may be susceptible. 

At this time there is no cure. Contact your local cooperative 

extension service for help in identifying this disease. 

Weed Control 

When you engage in a constant struggle to control weeds, 

you need to evaluate the costs, methods and effectiveness of 

using chemicals and their impact on the environment—both 

local and the entire world. 

It’s important to control weeds in gardens and landscapes 

to reduce aggressive competition for water, garden space 

and nutrients. A weed-free garden is more attractive and 

more healthy. 

Several options are available to control weeds. They 

include hoeing, cultivating, mulching to reduce their numbers 

(and make them easier to remove), pulling by hand, 

applying chemicals and using the solarization method, 

described below. 

Above all, try to keep weeds in check by controlling them 

on a regular basis. If you see them, pull them. One of the 

best times to engage in a weeding session is right after 

a decent rain. Then, when the soil is moist, weeds can be 

pulled fairly easily, roots and all. Don’t leave weeds on the 

ground where their seeds can continue the cycle. Toss them 

in the trash. 

Using the Sun for Weed Control 

Solarization uses the sun to kill weed seeds. It is a simple 

but effective weed control method that is even used by 

commercial vegetable growers in the Southwest. A similar 

process applies to the home garden as well. 

The process begins after the weather heats up—late 

spring to early fall. Soak the area to be treated so moisture 

reaches 6 to 12 inches deep. Cultivate soil 4 to 6 inches 

deep. Lay clear plastic over the area. Shovel soil over edges 

of the plastic covering to seal in heat and to hold the plastic 

in place. Allow seeds time to germinate, which will take 2 to 

4 weeks. The build up of heat under the plastic quickly kills 

weed seedlings. After seedlings have been killed, remove 

the plastic and dead growth. Work the soil well before planting 

your wildflowers, vegetables, annuals and perennials. 

For weed control methods that require chemicals, seek 

advice at your nursery for recommendations on products and 

application methods. Grassy weeds such as Bermudagrass, 

nutgrass or Delhigrass require a material that is absorbed 

into the root zone. Broadleaf weeds such as Russian thistle, 

spurge and others have spray materials formulated specifically 

for their control. In all cases, apply chemical applications 

carefully on windless days to prevent harming humans 

and pets. Follow all directions on the product label. 

Month-by-Month Gardening Calendar 

for the Coachella Valley 

January 

January is usually our coldest month, with pleasant days 

and cool nights. There’s even a chance for frost. 

Lawns overseeded with ryegrass need regular moisture 

and weekly mowing. If yellowing occurs, apply 

high nitrogen fertilizer. 

This is the last opportunity to plant bare-root roses, 

grapes and deciduous fruit trees. Prune your roses and 

deciduous fruit trees 

this month. By now, 

red bird of paradise 

have gone dormant. 

Cut back stems to 

about 18 inches above 

ground level. 

Plant cool-season 

vegetables and herbs. 

January is the ideal 

month to make additions 

or changes in the 

garden while temperatures 

are kind. It is a 

good month to retrofit 

January: protect citrus fruit. your garden. (See also 

December.) 

Now’s the time to transplant cold-hardy plants, 

including perennials. 

Check tree stakes and ties for support against strong 

winds common in the spring months. 

February 

Warming trends this month set the stage to fertilize 

citrus trees. Water 

annuals and perennials 

diligently. Control 

winter weeds. 

Complete pruning 

of roses and deciduous 

fruit trees. 

February is an 

excellent time to plant 

shallow-rooted ground 

covers, native plants 

and other low-water 

use plants. Hold off 

planting frost-tender 

plants such as citrus 

January: prune when plants 

and bougainvillaea 

are reaching dormancy. 

until next month, to 


avoid a possible late frost. 

Continue to plant winter vegetables. (See page 145.) 

Check plants for aphids or other pests and control as 

soon as you notice them. 

Begin deep root watering of trees in anticipation of 

spring growth surge. 

March: Add mulch to conserve soil moisture. 

March 

The warm, mild weather of March prompts rapid and 

excessive growth of plants as well as insect pests. Roses, 

citrus and hibiscus are most susceptible. For aphids, wash 

them off with a strong jet of water. If this does not work, 

check with your nursery for a safe product. When thrips 

attacks citrus, they cause leaves to curl and scar fruit 

rind. Control is difficult. Take some comfort in the fact 

they will be gone soon. White flies are attracted to bright 

yellow. Place a sheet of yellow cardboard covered with 

petroleum jelly near susceptible plants to capture them. 

To reduce fruit set, spray olive trees with a flower control 

spray while trees are in bud. Spray again when twothirds 

of blossoms are open. 

Fall-planted annuals reach peak bloom in March. Thin 

any crowded plants. Pinch back stems of snapdragons to 

cause new flowering stems to develop. 

Apply crabgrass control to lawns. 

Water needs increase for all plants as temperatures 

rise. Reset irrigation system amounts to provide more 

moisture. Consider purchasing a weather-based irrigation 

controller. It adjusts to conditions automatically. 

Fertilize citrus, lawns, perennials and vegetables. 

As flowering bulbs complete their bloom, remove old 

Animal pests will want their share of spring flowers. 

flower stems. 

Plant landscape plants as soon as possible this month 

if you missed the fall planting season to help them to 

become established before summer heat arrives. Most 

Southwest desert native trees and shrubs do better without 

fertilization. 

April 

This is a great garden month and a time when the color 

season reaches its peak. April is also the ideal planting 

month for tropicals that are sensitive to cold such as 

bougainvillaea, hibiscus, lantana, cape honeysuckle and 

citrus. 

Begin preparing soil in sunny beds to plant warm-season 

annuals such as marigolds, periwinkle and zinnias. 

If periwinkle plants wilt and die, they likely have periwinkle 

wilt. Remove and discard plants. 

Bermudagrass should be “encouraged” this month. If 

lawn was overseeded with winter ryegrass, cut rye low, 

which slows its growth, giving the dormant Bermuda the 

opportunity to regrow. Apply high-nitrogen fertilizer and 

water it in thoroughly. 

As temperatures increase in the latter part of April, winter 

annuals will begin to lose their vigor. Remove plants as 

they fade or begin to die out. 

Prune and thin sennas and Texas rangers into a natural 

form after flowering ceases. Your goals are to control 

growth, yet increase spread of plants and create additional 

wood for the following flowering season. 

If you didn’t do so in March, review irrigation schedules 

(both mechanical and hand watering) and increase 

water to accommodate the increase in temperatures. 

Deadhead (remove) spent flowers and fertilize roses 

after each bloom period for a final crop before hot 

weather. 

Control weeds and Bermudagrass in flowerbeds. Don’t 

put this off; regular weeding prevents disaster. 


May 

May brings the first touch of summer, which begins to 

affect plants in many ways. The heat also slows human 

activity in the garden this month. 

Review drip irrigation systems and flush out lines to 

eliminate dirt and debris that could clog lines or emitters. 

Increase watering amounts to about twice the amount you 

May: Extend watering basins for summer irrigations. 

were watering last winter. For more specific amounts, see 

the chart on page 32. 

Apply organic mulches beneath the root areas of citrus, 

roses and perennials while temperatures are moderate 

enough to allow work in the garden. 

Winter and spring annuals have faded, while many 

perennials such as coreopsis, gaillardia and rudbeckia 

are developing vigorously and just beginning their color 

season. 

Clean up dead leaves and faded flower stalks on daylilies. 

You can remove spent yucca and aloe flower stalks 

once they are past bloom, but some gardeners leave them 

for the interest they provide when dried. 

Apply acid fertilizer to azaleas, camellias and gardenias. 

With watering schedules increasing, observe plants for 

chlorosis—yellowing of leaves. This probably indicates 

lack of iron. Acidify the soil so plants can absorb iron. 

If cold-tender plants were damaged by frost last winter, 

recovery should be well underway. Now, new growth on 

live stems should tell you which stems and branches are 

dead. Prune them to live tissue. 

June 

Summer has arrived with a vengeance. It is important to 

maintain a regular irrigation schedule. 

Prune to control rampant growth of oleanders, citrus, 

lantana, bougainvillaea and hibiscus. Thin excess interior 

growth of mesquites. Remove crossing branches of palo 

verde trees. 

Remove Bermudagrass that has invaded planting beds. 

Pull it by hand, or spray with a product containing glyphosate. 

Take action as soon as you notice it; wait too long 

and it can become difficult to eradicate. 

Roses, shrubs and 

young trees benefit from 

the addition of a 3-inchthick 

layer of mulch. It 

helps keep roots cool 

and slows evaporation of 

moisture from the soil. 

Palms and cacti transplant 

most readily in hot 

weather. When moved 

early in the warm season, 

plants recover with 

good growth, responding 

to heat and deep irrigations 

in well-drained 

June: water regularly, particularly 

plants in containers. 

soil. 

Provide shade to protect 

sago palms from 

direct sun. 

July 

With highs ranging from 105°F to 120°F, it should be 

no surprise that gardening practically comes to a standstill 

this month. Any gardening task seems to become 

a gigantic obstacle 

during a Coachella 

Valley summer. Early 

risers find ways to 

take care of necessary 

jobs despite the 

heat, which is often 

accompanied by high 

humidity. 

Weeds grow rapidly; 

regular control 

is important. 

Trim off spent rose 

blooms that keep trying 

to flower despite 

July: Check plant ties often. 

the heat. Provide 

mulches to help plants survive high temperatures. 

Monitor all irrigation systems closely. Failure now 

without early detection can be a disaster. 

Be sure to water trees deeply. Palms, especially, respond 

to slow, deep irrigation. Soaker hoses are inexpensive and 

easy to use. Summer heat is also a good time to plant or 

transplant palms and cacti. 

When chlorosis shows on eucalyptus and other trees, 

treat with soil acidifiers. Ask your nursery for advice on 

current products. 


Indoors, with air conditioning, begin planning for 

the fall, or plan a retrofit to make the garden more 

water efficient. And there’s hope: After July, it is only 

two months until the 

fall planting season, 

and the onset of cooler 

temperatures! 

August 

August is a near-repeat 

of July, only high 

temperatures seem to 

extend longer and higher 

humidity plays more 

of a role. Rains may or 

may not appear. 

Remove dead basal 

foliage of perennials. 

Deadhead (trim or July: Vines need support. 

pinch off) spent flowers 

of coreopsis and rudbeckia. 

Trim away dead flowering stems of Salvia greggii, 

autumn sage. This stimulates creation of new flowering 

stems for the fall and winter season. Likewise, lightly 

cut back old, tired stems of Salvia farinacea, blue salvia, 

to encourage new basal growth. 

Time to make plans for fall planting of annuals and 

perennials. Order seeds of adapted wildflowers for 

planting in September and October. If weather is not 

too hot, prepare fall planting beds by digging organic 

materials into the top 8 to 10 inches of soil. 

Rebuild basins on plants, especially on slopes, to hold 

in irrigation water. Check drip irrigation systems to see 

that they are operating correctly. 

Continue to control unwanted Bermudagrass. If 

overseeding your Bermudagrass lawn, hold off on fertilizing—renovation 

and reseeding is just two months 

ahead. If not overseeding, then fertilize. 

Green algae on the soil surface in the garden indicates 

August: Trim Salvia greggii for more flowers in fall. 

excessive moisture. Check irrigation lines and hose bibs 

for leaks. 

Hold off extensive shearing or pruning for another 

month. Pruning now may expose formerly shaded stems 

and foliage to sunburn. 

September 

The 15th of this month launches the most important 

planting season of the year. Planting reaches its peak 

by October 15, when winter and spring annuals such as 

petunias, snapdragons and pansies are placed in their 

beds. This narrow window of time allows new plants to 

develop roots when the soil is warm before the cooler 

late fall and winter air temperatures slow plant growth. 

Sow seeds of wildflowers, set out trees, shrubs and 

perennials from containers. Plant bulbs and bulb cover 

such as sweet alyssum. 

If renovating and reseeding lawn with annual or 

perennial ryegrass, slow down Bermudagrass growth by 

reducing irrigation and cease applications of fertilizer. 

As part of soil preparation in flower and vegetable 

beds, add organic mulches and slow-release fertilizers. 

If petunias, snapdragons and pansies have been planted 

continuously in the same soil for a number of years, 

September: ItÕs prime time to plant. 

apply a fungicide to prevent die-off problems with new 

plantings. Or plant these annuals in a new location, giving 

the old bed a rest. 

Later in the month, as the path of the sun drops lower 

to the south, gradually taper off irrigation. However, 

continue to deep-water trees and shrubs. (See Irrigation 

Guide, page 32.) 

October 

This is a month of sunny days, yet it’s usually comfortable 

to work in the garden. Plants are thriving, 

and planting of most everything continues through the 

month. However, hold off planting cold-tender tropical 

and subtropical plants such as citrus until spring, unless 

you have a microclimate at your home where plants are 


protected from wind and cold. 

This is the month to turn your home landscape into 

a showplace. Everything is in your favor. The weather 

is mild and nurseries are loaded with fresh plants in 

containers, flats and pots. Well-rooted seedlings adjust 

readily to transplanting during this season. Moisten 

soil prior to planting. Water plants in gently after planting 

and continue to water regularly as they begin to 

become established. 

Avoid excessive 

moisture. Dig down 

into the soil with a 

trowel to a depth of 6 

inches to make sure 

moisture penetration 

is adequate. 

Continue to overseed 

Bermudagrass 

lawns until mid- 

October. 

October is the best 

time to sow wildflower 

seeds, but you 

can continue up until 

October: Sow wildflower seed mid-November. How 

for flowers in spring. 

to establish wildflowers 

is given on page 

129. Water planting beds well before sowing seeds. 

November 

Continue fall planting if you missed the October period. 

Plants will establish slower with cooler temperatures. 

Apply high-nitrogen fertilizer to ryegrass-seeded 

lawns to spur health and green color as days shorten and 

colder nights slow growth. 

Bring cold-tender plants in containers under shelter to 

protect from freezing temperatures. 

By November, many perennials such as rudbeckia 

and gaillardia that flower from summer into fall have 

completed their bloom cycle. Cut back to basal growth 

and clean up leaf debris. 

Chrysanthemums are in their prime. Cut flowers to 

use for bouquets. This also helps flowering branches 

from drooping excessively. 

During October, November and into December, 

Texas rangers are in bloom. This makes it a good time 

to select plants by flower color by visiting your nursery. 

More than a dozen selections are now available. 

Roses usually enter winter dormancy, although they 

may continue to bloom until severe frost. Keep soil 

moist. Wait to prune in late January or early February. 

Hold off pruning or thinning citrus until after flowering 

ceases in spring. 

December 

This is a great month to take advantage of the delightfully 

mild winter weather, and tackle those major 

garden projects. Here’s a list of ten things to do in the 

December garden: 

1. Install a drip irrigation system complete with 

weather-based irrigation controller. It will save water 

throughout the coming year. 

2. Plant perennial and bulb gardens to replace beds 

of annuals—saving water, money and time spent on 

maintenance. 

3. Develop a wildlife garden in a corner of the yard to 

attract birds, bees, butterflies and small critters. 

4. Grow plants in colorful pots you decorate yourself 

to give as holiday gifts. 

5. If your landscape has drainage problems, create 

a drainage swale, and if possible, include a retention 

basin. Or build a simulated creek bed with rocks and 

boulders to channel and disperse runoff. See page 150. 

6. Make a 

rock garden 

on a naturalshaped, 

flowing 

mound 

to serve as 

a landscape 

feature. Plant 

nooks and 

crannies with 

f l o w e r i n g 

p e r e n n i a l s , 

ground covers, 

ornamental 

grasses and 

accent plants. 

7. Reduce 

December: Time to do the heavy work, 

such as installing a dry creek bed for 

landscape interest and drainage. 

the size of large lawns, especially in front yards. Give 

the space to water-efficient ground covers. 

8. Build a raised bed garden to grow a vegetable or 

color garden. Incorporate ample amounts of organic 

matter into the soil to provide your plants with optimum 

growing conditions. 

9. If you have an old garden with woody hedges and 

overgrown plants, consider giving it a face lift. Remove 

tired plants and bring new ideas into play with colorful, 

water-efficient, low-maintenance plants. 

10. If there is a large expanse of gravel or other inert 

ground cover surrounding your home, replace some 

areas with low-water-use ground covers and shrubs. 

Plants located at the base of structures cut down on 

reflected heat and light on the outside of buildings to 

help reduce cooling costs inside. 


u 

c h a p t e r t w o 

u 

Water-Efficient 

Irrigation 

How much and how often do you need to water landscape plants in 

the Coachella Valley This is a common question asked by many 

desert gardeners, particularly by newcomers. Answering this twopart 

question is complex: Drying winds, soils that drain fast, soils that drain 

slow, and the wide range of water requirements of the many plants that grow 

here impact how much and when to water. For example, established natives 

and desert-adapted plants need much less water than tropical or subtropical 

shrubs and trees, shallow-rooted annuals, non-native perennials, ground covers 

and lawns. Other factors play important roles, such as competition for 

water from the roots of nearby shrubs and trees, age of plants, time of year, 

and exposure to the sun, including reflected heat from buildings and streets. 

Lush tropical plants may require daily watering during the summer and 

twice weekly during the winter. Even low to moderate water users may need 

irrigation every other day during the summer, depending on the water-holding 

capacity of the soil. 

Succulent plants, including cacti, do well without regular watering. 

Established cactus gardens can survive with hand watering from a garden 

hose two to four times a year, depending on rainfall. Speaking of rainfall, 

some years no measurable rain falls in the Coachella Valley! Generally, 

monthly or bimonthly watering through the summer is appreciated by even 

the most drought-tolerant plants. 

The water needs of plants are also dependent on the cultivar of a species, 

where it was originally native to, and the genetics of the individual plant. 

Even with these many variables, there are good general guidelines to follow. 

Plants and Their Day-to-Day Water Needs 

Soil type has a great impact on how much and how often to water plants. 

And one of the toughest aspects of watering plants properly in the Coachella 

Valley is that the soils can be extremely variable, even within a single home 

lot. All cove and dune areas in the valley have soils that are well drained and 

retain little water. The best water-holding soils exist along the Whitewater 

Stormwater Channel from Rancho Mirage to Indio, in the lower cove of La 

Left: An automatic, 

programmable irrigation 

system will save you water, 

money and time, and can provide 

plants with the proper 

amounts of moisture for health 

and growth. 

Above: A drip irrigation system 

applies water slowly where it 

is needed most: at the plantÕs 

root zone. 

Water-Efficient Irrigation u 27

Watering Basics 

A few practical guidelines will help make watering 

plants more efficient, while helping them grow successfully. 

o Create furrows or wide basins around plants so 

water will soak into the root zone. 

o Control weeds frequently. They steal valuable 

moisture and nutrients that should go to your plants. 

o Use organic mulches to increase retention of 

moisture in the soil and to keep roots cooler during hot 

weather. (See Mulching to Save Water, page 18.) 

o Apply water in early morning or evening hours 

during summer for highest water pressure and to minimize 

loss through evaporation. 

o Install automatic watering systems where possible 

for regulated applications by drip emitters, bubblers or 

pop-up sprinklers. 

o Make it a habit to adjust automatic irrigation 

clocks monthly. Increase or decrease the amount of 

water applied as water needs change with the seasons. 

o Don’t operate sprinklers during windy periods 

(winds tend to be more prevalent in the afternoon). 

Winds blow water away from the plants you want to 

irrigate and cause it to evaporate more rapidly. 

o Light hand sprinkling from a hose on shrubs, trees 

and vines does little good. Soak the soil deeply at the 

drip line. 

o The appearance of green algae on the soil surface 

indicates too much water is being applied. This often 

occurs in late summer or fall as temperatures cool. 

Reduce water applied, and check for leaks in irrigation 

system. 

Suggestions for watering different kinds of plants 

and gardens can be found in the chapter, Landscapes & 

Special Gardens, pages 137 to 151. These include containers, 

page 143; citrus and other fruits, page 147; and 

vegetable gardens, page 145. 

Quinta, in the Indio and Coachella areas and most of the 

lower valley. In some areas, soils may actually be poorly 

drained, and certain plants will not thrive there. 

Plant roots absorb water from the soil. Water is carried 

up to the leaves, drawn as water moves out into the drier 

outer air through microscopic pores in the leaves. Plants 

can lose massive amounts of water through their leaves 

(transpiration). In one study, an 8 foot-high corn plant 

transpired 150 gallons of water in a single day. 

Plants lose most of their water between noon and 4 in 

the afternoon. Roots absorb water day and night but, on 

a hot day, transpiration through the leaves may exceed 

absorption through the roots. If the loss is great, plants 

show their distress by wilting, but they often recover. If 

Plants will ÒtellÓ you when they need water by lackluster 

color, and drooping, curling leaves. It is better to 

water before they reach this stage to avoid major stress. 

enough moisture exists in the soil, moisture content in the 

leaves will return to normal at night. If water loss is too 

great, it can cause the plant to suffer damage or even cause 

its death. 

Plants start photosynthesis even before the sun breaks 

over the horizon, so early morning is the best time of day 

to water them. Watering early or late at night also gets 

water into the soil without undue loss through evaporation 

due to higher, midday temperatures. 

Watering in early morning or late evening also has 

the added benefit of higher water pressure. The greatest 

demand on public water systems is between 8 a.m. and 

8 p.m. Sprinklers work at peak efficiency when water 

demand is at its lowest—later in the evening or early 

morning. For plants susceptible to mildew, such as roses 

and lawns, morning watering is best: Leaves become dry 

before nightfall. 

Deep soaking trees, shrubs, palms and vines, young or 

old, helps them develop deep root systems. Deeper, wider, 

more extensive roots will have access to reservoirs of 

moisture in the soil. Access to this moisture is important 

during extended hot or dry conditions, which place extra 

demand on the plants. 

Water should be applied at the plant’s drip line. This 

is an imaginary area located at the outer perimeter of 

the plant. Picture where rain would naturally drip off of 

28 u Water-Efficient Irrigation

the leaves to the ground. It is here that the plant has its 

water-absorbing roots, or feeder roots. Near the trunk, 

you want to encourage development of strong anchoring 

roots. Watering deep and wide has an added benefit. Trees 

and shrubs with an extensive root system are not as easily 

blown over by strong, gusty winds. 

To meet the needs of the plants and to save on water 

bills, water should be applied to the soil slowly so that it 

can soak in deeply. As mentioned, this encourages deep 

rooting, with roots well below the hot surface soil. A drip 

irrigation system on an automatic timer becomes a valuable 

tool to making this irrigation program come to life. 

Using Technology to Tell How Much and 

When to Water 

Computer technology applied to current local weather 

conditions is available to help the home gardener irrigate 

precisely, replacing plant moisture loss. 

Developed and operated by the California Department 

of Water Resources primarily for agricultural irrigation, 

the California Irrigation Management Information System 

(CIMIS) is especially helpful to provide information 

on lawn irrigation. A home computer is not necessary, 

although it could make the information more useful. 

Evapotranspiration (ET) 

A computer in Sacramento regularly polls more than 100 

automatic weather stations throughout the state, including 

the Coachella Valley. It records local weather data such 

as temperature, relative humidity, dew point, wind speed, 

soil temperature, rainfall and net radiation. The computer 

stores the accumulated data and calculates hourly a reference 

figure for the total amount of water a plant needs to 

maintain itself. This evapotranspiration (ET) rate varies by 

plant type. 

A quick definition: Evapotranspiration is a process 

where plants open their pores and thus transpire water. The 

transpired water evaporates, which helps cool the plant. 

The evaporation action also physically helps pull more 

water into the leaves. The plant must open its pores to get 

the carbon dioxide it needs to make its food. 

Precise figures for many landscape plants have not yet 

been calculated, but the reference ET, or ET°, provides a 

good starting point. 

If the daily reference ET is known, calculate the daily 

irrigation need. You can then program irrigation system 

automatic controllers to deliver that amount. 

Moisture stress—replacing less moisture than ET losses—can 

cause plants to temporarily stop growing. By 

irrigating established plants at 80 percent of ET, the 

homeowner can mow and prune less frequently without 

injuring plants. They will grow about 50 percent less 

rapidly. Irrigating at less than 80 percent will cause plants 

described in this book as high-water users to weaken and 

decline, becoming more susceptible to disease and pests. 

Fruit trees and vegetable gardens should always be irrigated 

at 100 percent of the ET rate. Less than 100 percent 

and the quality and quantity of vegetables and fruit harvested 

will be greatly diminished. 

CIMIS Computer 

CIMIS information can be accessed on to the Coachella 

Valley Water District website at www.cvwd.org. Even 

without computer access, the National Weather Service 

makes the information accessible by announcing local ET 

information every day on KIG 78, the Coachella Valley 

weather radio station (162.4 MHz). Inexpensive radios 

that receive only the weather station are also available in 

electronics stores. If you do not have a weather radio or 

internet access, you can call to hear the CVWD’s taped 

weather forecast at (760) 398-7211, or (760) 345-3711. 

Designing a Water-Efficient 

Irrigation System 

A CIMIS station gathers local weather information and 

sends it to Sacramento for analysis. This information is 

then distributed to local irrigators. 


Irrigation systems are available for every type of landscape. 

A drip irrigation system is best for areas that contain 

shrubs and trees. An automatic pop-up sprinkler system is 

a must for efficient lawn watering. Extensive beds of flowers 

or ground covers as well as vegetable gardens can be 

watered by drip emitters or bubblers. An automatic timer 

regulating the irrigation system(s) is optimal for savings 

and convenience. Gardeners and plants greatly benefit 

from automated irrigation systems. 

Overall, drip irrigation is considered the best system 

for most sections of the landscape. It slowly and precisely 

places water in the root zone on a regular basis to encourage 

proper growth and healthy plants. Only the root zone is 

irrigated, and little water is wasted on open spaces between 

plants. This reduces water loss to evaporation by as much 

as 60 percent. As an added bonus, the home gardener's 

maintenance workload is reduced simply because there is 

less moist soil surface to sprout weeds. 

Get in the Zone 

The first step in designing your own irrigation system is to 

evaluate your landscape. Draw a map of your lot, including 

existing plants. Graph paper, with one square equaling 

a unit of measurement, works well. Make several copies of 

this master layout. On one copy, draw in plants you want 

to add to the landscape. If you have an existing irrigation 

system, draw that on your map as well. 

Next, define separate watering zones. Each zone should 

consist of plants with similar water requirements, from low 

to very high. Irrigation zones are based on how often the 

plants need to be watered, as well as typical soil depth for 

their roots. Actual gallon amounts applied is not a concern 

at this stage. 

The average automatic irrigation control “timer” has 

space for six zones, which is usually more than enough for 

the average home landscape. 

Typically, Zone One includes trees and large shrubs 

that need infrequent, yet slow, deep irrigation. Zone Two 

usually includes small shrubs, perennials, vines and other 

plants that need regular irrigation. Zone Three and Zone 

Four could be for a vegetable garden or lawn—areas 

watered every day in summer. Zone Five could be for 

plants in containers on the patio, which require irrigation 

every day via a drip system. Zone Six may be ground cover 

or flowerbeds, irrigated with bubblers or multihead “spider 

head” drip irrigation. 

Irrigation System Components 

As you begin to plan (and then install) an irrigation system, 

it’s helpful to learn some terminology. Next, you 

will need to walk through the steps required to install the 

components to see how they fit together. Last, you will 

have to go back to the zoned lot plan you created to figure 

out which and how many water delivery devices you will 

need to install for the different plant zones or gardens you 

have on site. 

Before you start installing your irrigation system, it’s a 

good idea to become familiar with irrigation terms. This 

is true even if you will have an irrigation professional do 

the installation for you. This knowledge will help insure 

that the work performed meets your needs and is installed 

properly. 

Stores that specialize in irrigation supplies can offer 

valuable assistance to the do-it-yourselfer. Most are willing 

to provide expert advice, and they carry a wide range of 

the specialty parts you’ll require. Because they are in business 

for professionals, they carry quality equipment that is 

standardized and interchangeable. 

Home-improvement and hardware stores usually do 

not offer the same quality of service or variety of parts 

as specialty stores. They sell prepackaged systems with 

detailed written instructions. It is wise to purchase wellknown 

brands. Often the equipment of unknown brands 

is substandard. Additionally, components of an economy 

brand often cannot be interchanged with those of other 

manufacturers. Once a system is installed, it is important 

to have a dependable source of parts for replacement and 

expansion. 

Even professionals have to visit the irrigation supply 

store more than once during the installation of a major 

project. They often run out of this or that fitting. Do not 

be embarrassed by multiple trips to the store. Ideally, if 

you plan properly you’ll have more than enough of all you 

need. Likewise, don’t be shy about overbuying and then 

returning excess. Keep in mind, too, that it’s helpful to 

have a few extras of everything on hand for future maintenance 

and repairs. 

Components and Terms 

The following terms are loosely grouped by the type of 

service they perform. As mentioned, become familiar with 

as many of these terms as possible. 

Zone—Group of sprinklers that operate together and are 

controlled by the same control valve. Also called a station. 

Pipe—Polyethylene tubing and PVC (polyvinyl chloride) 

are the two most commonly used types of irrigation pipe. 

Both types include UV resistant compounds, and both can 

last up to 20 years. 

Pipe comes in various diameters. As a general rule, 

homeowners should install irrigation lines that are 1/2-inch 

diameter. Hose bibs are generally made of 1/2-inch pipe, 

although water typically comes into the home in 3/4-inch 

pipe. 

PVC is a rigid pipe generally used for commercial appli- 


Overhead view of an efficient, zoned irrigation system layout. For more information, see Get in the Zone, left. 

cations and lawn systems. Pipes are cut with a saw and 

linked using fittings and a special glue. 

Polyethylene is a soft, flexible pipe or tubing, most commonly 

used for drip systems. Once only available in black, 

it is now available in a variety of colors, which makes is 

easy to identify which tubing is delivering water to different 

zones. 

Polyethylene can be cut with pruning shears or a polyethylene 

cutting tool. Sections are then linked with compression 

fittings or compression couplings that are simple 

to press into place. 

Fittings—Pieces of pipe are connected with various fittings. 

Common fittings include 45- and 90-degree elbows, 

“T” connectors and straight connectors (to connect two 

pieces of pipe). Special adapters are available that link different 

types of pipe, such as PVC pipe with polyethylene 

pipe, which happens on occasion. 

Microtubing—Used in drip irrigation, this narrow diameter 

tubing delivers water from polyethylene pipe to the 

drip emitters. It is attached to polyethylene pipe with 

barbed connectors. 

Holes for the microtube connectors are punched using 

a specialized punch tool that is purchased when you buy 

your other supplies. Purchase a number of “goof-plugs” at 

the same time. Use them to close any holes made in the 

wrong spot on the polyethylene pipe, or to plug microtubes 

that are no longer in use. 

Water Delivery Devices—Lawns are irrigated with sprinklers. 

Trees, shrubs and other plants can be irrigated with 

drip emitters or bubblers. Sprayers and misters can also be 

part of an irrigation system in special situations. 

Drip Emitter—In a drip irrigation system, an emitter, 

also called a dripper, slowly releases the water. Available 

in button or flag devices, some of the newer, self-cleaning 


Irrigation Guide for Trees, Shrubs and Ground Covers in the Coachella Valley 

Trees & Shrubs Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. 

*High 45 56 53 59 60 59 59 57 63 52 44 42 

*Med. 31 35 33 38 39 38 38 37 41 33 28 28 

*Low 14 21 16 17 18 18 18 17 18 16 14 14 

Gallons per day for established trees and large shrubs (15 to 20 feet high and as wide) 

Ground covers Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. 

*High 2.4 2.8 2.8 3.1 3.0 3.1 3.1 3.0 3.2 2.8 2.3 2.1 

*Med. 1.8 1.9 1.8 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.1 1 1.8 1.6 1.4 

*Low .7 .9 .9 1.0 .9 .9 .9 .9 1.0 .9 .7 .7 

Irrigation Days per Week 

Gallons per day for small shrubs and ground covers 

2 3 4 5 6 7 7 6 5 4 3 2 

*Plants are categorized as high, medium or low water use in Success with Desert Plants. See pages 42 to 135. 

To calculate how long to water with a drip system, divide the gallonage ratings of your emitters into the gallons per irrigation 

day times 60 minutes. For example, a 1-gallon emitter on a plant requiring 8 gallons per cycle: multiply 8x60 divided by 1 

for a required irrigation time of 480 minutes, or 8 hours. Large trees naturally require more and larger emitters. Four 2-gallon 

emitters would apply the same amount of water in one hour as a single 1-gallon emitter in 8 hours. 

flags are a worthwhile option in areas with hard water 

(See Maintaining and Troubleshooting your Irrigation 

System, page 38.) 

Emitters are rated by the gallons per hour (GPH) of 

water that they deliver. Select emitters that deliver an 

appropriate GPH depending on your plant needs and 

soil type. (See chart above.) In sandy soil, it’s helpful to 

release water for shorter but more frequent periods. Clay 

soils do not drain rapidly so can accept lower GPH emitters 

but with longer running times. Note: It is possible to 

mix emitters with different GPH on a single zone line. 

Non-Compensating Emitters—These emitters have a 

set flow rate at a given pressure and are used on level 

ground. 

Compensating Emitters—Use where there are elevation 

extremes of more than 10 feet. They produce a 

nearly constant flow rate regardless of changes in water 

line pressure. 

In-Line Drippers—A type of drip emitter that is placed 

in a long continuous line of microtube. Useful in vegetable 

gardens, flowerbeds or for ground covers. These 

slowly emit water to soil around plant roots, and use less 

water than bubblers or sprinklers. 

Multi-Head—Part of a drip system that allows 6, 8 or 

12 lines of microtubing to come out of a single, central 

location. Used in planting beds or with ground covers. 

Also called an octopus or spider-head. 

Bubblers—Water bubbles downward, rather than sprinkling. 

Use to water planter beds by slowly flooding the 

bed, or place them near individual plants according to 

the plant’s gallons-per-minute requirement. Often used 

to water trees that prefer flood irrigation, such as citrus. 

Also rated in gallons per hour, and available as adjustable 

or non-adjustable. 

Adjustable Bubbler—Higher quality devices require a 

tool to set or adjust the flow (generally a Phillips head 

screwdriver). Check for a wide range of flow adjustments, 

debris filters and set flow adjustments that hold. 

Nonadjustable Bubbler—More tamper resistant than 

adjustable types. Check for availability of several flow 

models, pressure compensation and debris screens. 

Microspray Head—Emits water in a spray diameter 

around the head. These were once popular for ground 

cover beds. However, they have proven to be inefficient, 

with a large percentage of water applied lost to evaporation. 

For a more modern irrigation system that is more 

efficient, replace microsprayers with multi-heads and 

drip emitters or bubblers. 


Mister—A type of emitter that sends out a mist of water. 

Used especially in greenhouses that need to maintain high 

humidity, or occasionally on patios for plants that require 

high humidity. 

Porous Hose—Also called soaker hose. These hoses can 

be attached to irrigation pipe via a fitting called a hose 

adapter. Porous hose allows water to ooze through a series 

of minute channels in the hose along its entire surface. 

The soil is thus watered the entire length of the hose and 

to a width that depends on soil type and amount of time 

irrigated. It is a good option for vegetable gardens and 

flowerbeds. 

Irrigation Tape—Used in commercial agriculture, and 

can be used in home vegetable gardens. It is a specially 

constructed, thin-walled drip pipe that has holes placed 

every few inches to discharge water. Lay down an irrigation 

tape for each row of planting. Install on the soil surface 

or bury one or two inches deep. 

Sprinklers—A wide range of types are available, with a 

variety of techniques used to disperse water through the air 

to the targeted garden location. A great percentage of water 

applied can be lost to evaporation by using sprinklers. 

Pop-Up Sprinkler—Irrigation device that will pop up out 

of an underground housing to water an area, then descend 

into the housing once watering is over. Sprinkler heads 

with plastic components and with pop-down springs are 

currently popular but have a shorter life expectancy than 

the older style constructed of brass or other metal. 

A pop-up height of 3 to 4 inches is ideal for lawn. Check 

for debris screens to reduce clogging. Heads are available 

in several nozzle patterns and radii (color-coded ones 

are preferred). These provide coverage to small irregular 

areas. Low-angle nozzles are recommended for windy 

locations. 

Pop-Up Rotor—A form of pop-up sprinkler that will cast 

the water in a rotating circle. It can be set to sprinkle in a 

360- degree circle, or as little as a 90-degree arc. 

End Cap—Every irrigation zone (line) requires an individual 

end cap. By removing this cap, you can clean the 

line out after installing the system—before first use. Clean 

out all the dirt, sand and debris in the line that can clog 

emitters or sprinklers. End caps should also be opened 

periodically so lines can be flushed clean. 

Backflow Preventer—A device that prevents the water 

in the irrigation system from siphoning back into drinking 

water. In some regions, ordinances require installation of 

backflow preventers. Also called anti-siphon valve. 

Filter—All irrigation systems need some type of filter 

to keep dirt and debris from clogging the emitters. Look 

for one that comes apart easily for its quarterly cleaning. 

Some stores sell fertilizer tablets that can be placed inside 

the filter. Do not use these because they lead to salt buildup 

and clog the drip emitters. 

Emergency Shut Off—Necessary to allow you to shut 

off water to the irrigation system in case of an emergency. 

It is recommended the irrigation system be installed on a 

separate water line stubbed off of the main water line that 

goes into your home. 

Pop-Up Spray Head Design 

1. Pop-up Spray Head 

2. Walk or Curb 

3. PVC Schedule 80 Nipple 

(4Ó minimum length) 

4. PVC TxT 90 Degree Ell 

5. Lateral Line Pipe & Fitting 

6. Marlex 90 Degree Street Ell 

7. PVC Schedule 80 Nipple 

(6Ó long) 

8. Finish Grade 


Daily Irrigation Schedule for Turfgrass 

in Minutes per Day 

This chart shows the average number of minutes a grass 

lawn typically needs water each day. Watering times 

can vary significantly based on sprinkler efficiency and 

soil conditions. Reduce watering times gradually to 

determine the proper amount needed for your lawn. 

Month Spray Heads Rotary Heads 

January 4 9 

February 6 15 

March 9 21 

April 12 27 

May 15 33 

June 17 38 

July 16 38 

August 15 33 

September 12 28 

October 9 19 

November 5 13 

December 4 7 

air vent 

Shut-Off Valves—These can be either a gate valve, which 

functions like a water faucet, or a ball valve, which rotates 

90 degrees to close a ball inside the pipe. Ball valves are 

preferred, and are less likely to break down or freeze up 

over time. 

Pressure Regulator—A device that maintains steady 

water pressure within your lines. One must be installed in 

each zone. Pressure regulators insure that surges in water 

pressure do not rupture lines or blow emitters off the tubing. 

Pressure regulators are rated by the pounds per square 

inch (PSI) of water pressure they permit. Generally a 20 

PSI regulator is ideal for a home landscape. Depending on 

the type of lawn sprinklers you use, you may need a higher 

PSI. Also if you need to apply water up a slope from where 

your valves are located, you may need a higher PSI, as well 

as pressure-compensating emitters. 

Pressure Gauge—Used in commercial applications, and 

not generally required by the homeowner. Water in desert 

regions often contains minerals or salts that can build up 

over time. A pressure gauge, installed downstream from 

both the filter and pressure regulator, lets you know when 

it’s time to clean the filter. Regular quarterly (every three 

months) cleaning of the filter and flushing lines eliminates 

the need for this device. 

Automatic Controller—Functions to control the watering 

cycle by sending a signal to the control valve(s) to open or 

close on the days and times you pre-select. You program 

the controller and direct it when, how long and how often 

to water plants. For outdoor installation, check for a gasket-sealed 

door and a sturdy case that can be locked. Also 

called a timer. 

Weather-based controllers adjust automatically according 

to weather conditions, eliminating the need for the 

homeowner to adjust water output each month. 

Features to check for: A battery or other backup to retain 

the irrigation program during power failure; two to three 

start times per program per day; up to 6 hours run time 

per zone; 21-day calendar or programmable day intervals 

and rainy day shutoff. Another desirable feature is remote 

access by modem or radio, programmable to use ET data 

from CIMIS. See page 29. 

Electro-mechanical Controller—An older style controller 

that runs only one zone (valve). Generally uses “pins” 

to trigger start and stop times. Irrigation supply stores usually 

have pins available. 

Features to check for: Minimum 3-minute cycle for spray 

heads; maximum 6-hour cycle for drip; 21-day calendar. 

Valves—Valves can be automatic or manual. One option is 

to have manually operated valves for each zone. You simply 

turn the valve on when plants in that zone need water. 

Also called control valve. If you convert to low-water-use 

plants throughout your landscape, a manual valve is an 

inexpensive option. This is because many desert-adapted 

plants need only a periodic deep soak once every three 

weeks or so in summer. Many require no water once (they 

are established) in winter. 

Valves are generally made of durable plastic. For com- 

antisiphon 

valve 

PVC schedule 40 ell 

Remote Control Valve 

ID tag 

waterproof connection 

30 inches wire, coiled 

remote control valve 

Install 6Ó minimum above 

highest point of discharge. 

UV radiation-resistant PVC 

schedule 40 male adapter 

(1 of 2) 

UV radiation-resistant PVC 

schedule 40 pipe (1 of 2) 

finish grade 

PVC irrigation 

water line (1 of 2) 


mercial applications, brass is more expensive but recommended. 

Also, brass is preferred if valves will not be 

sheltered in a housing. (See below.) 

Automatic Valves—These are electrically operated by 

the controller. The low-voltage electricity comes from the 

controller into a solenoid on the valve that “tells” the valve 

to open or close. Purchase valves with a back-up manual 

option. This allows you to operate the valve even if the 

controller or solenoid are not functioning. 

Features to check for: Emergency shut-off; manual override; 

replaceable solenoid assembly. 

Valve Housing—Valves are generally placed in protective 

housings, which can be either above or below ground. It is 

best to decide which works best for you and your landscape 

before you visit the store. Underground housings have a 

much nicer appearance and are much less obtrusive, yet 

access to valves makes it more difficult to work on them 

in case of malfunction. Valve housings were once available 

only in green. They come in other colors that blend better 

in the landscape, including a desert tan. 

Atmospheric Breaker Valve—A type of valve required 

in landscapes that include lawn. Allows the water to bleed 

back out of the line and allows the pop-up sprinklers used 

to irrigate the lawn to drop back down into their housings. 

Once these were the only type of valves available, and 

depending on the store, may still be the only type. The 

atmospheric breaker capability is not required for drip 

lines. 

Manifold—Term used to cover a number of valves placed 

near one another, possibly because the entire apparatus 

appears similar to the exhaust manifold of an automobile 

engine. Also called valve manifold. 

Mainline—Water line from water source to the valve 

assembly. A mainline is usually PVC pipe. 

Zoneline—Water line from the valve assembly and extending 

around a particular zone. Generally, PVC pipe is used 

for lawn zones and polyethylene pipe is used for all other 

irrigation zones. 

Installing Your Irrigation System 

At last, you have decided on your irrigation zones. Now 

you need to decide where you (or your contractor) will 

install the controllers and valves. If you are interviewing 

contractors and they do not fully understand the following 

questions, consider finding another contractor who does 

understand. 

q Where is the water source most easily accessible, 

yet the irrigation system will be unobtrusive 

q What is the pipe size at that point 

q Where is the electric power source for any automatic 

controller 

q Where is the most easily accessible yet unobtrusive 

site 

for automatic controller and the control valves 

Before going to purchase your equipment, make a list 

Installed and operated correctly, an automatic sprinkler system is the ideal way to irrigate lawns. 


of the required supplies. If your irrigation plan is neatly 

drawn to scale, the irrigation equipment supplier should 

be willing to help compile a list of what you’ll need, along 

with an estimated price. 

The hardest part of installing an irrigation system is the 

physical digging of holes where all the pipes and valves 

will go. Start with the mainline. The mainline leads from 

the water source to a location where you will be placing 

your valves. As mentioned, the mainline is generally 

constructed of PVC pipe rather than polyethylene because 

it is more resistant to pressure changes. As you leave the 

water source and begin the mainline, install the emergency 

shut-off and the backflow preventer. You can also install a 

single filter for the whole system at this point. 

Depending on your design, you may have a short or 

long mainline. You may even have several mainlines to 

different zones. Keep in mind that if you use an automatic 

controller, you will also need to run the control wires to the 

automatic valves. 

Once your mainline trench is dug to where your zone 

control valves will be located, lay in the mainline. Next, 

install the valves and all the associated devices you will 

need for each zone line. This is occasionally referred to as 

the valve assembly. 

Each zone will need a filter if you have not already 

installed one. Next step is to install the control valve. The 

control valve can be automatic or manual. If automatic, it 

is linked by a low voltage wire to the automatic controller. 

Immediately after the control valve, install a pressure 

regulator. As an option, you can install a pressure gauge 

after the regulator. 

If your zonelines are constructed of polyethylene, you 

must install an adapter that links the pressure regulator to 

the zoneline. This device permits easy disconnect for any 

necessary repairs. 

Now that your valve assembly is complete, you can 

begin to run the zone lines to where they are needed. 

Microirrigation (Drip) Systems 

Professional-quality landscape microirrigation equipment 

was developed initially for agricultural use. Coachella 

Valley farmers have been among the world leaders in developing 

and using microirrigation techniques. Homeowners 

in the Coachella Valley benefit by having easy access to 

several irrigation speciality stores. These stores are excellent 

sources for equipment, as well as advice. Irrigation 

professionals are available to suggest problem-solving 

Drip Emitter Assembly 

1. Drip Emitter 

2. Poly Flex Rise 

3. Finish Grade 

4. PVC Fitting 

(SxS x 1/2Ó FIPT) 

5. PVC Pipe 


steps and provide expert guidance. 

For commercial applications, irrigation systems must 

be strongly constructed, resistant to vandals, hidden from 

view, locked, and must operate with a minimum of supervision. 

Home systems need not be so heavily constructed. 

For optimal, long-term survival of any irrigation system, 

quarterly maintenance is necessary. This maintenance 

schedule is easy to remember. Often, it is performed at 

the same time when automatic timers are adjusted for the 

change in water need as the seasons and temperatures 

change. 

Installation Tips 

Polyethylene pipe will have compression fittings that grip 

the pipe from the outside. They can be admittedly difficult 

to compress into place. Never use lubricant to install the 

compression fittings! If necessary, you may warm the 

polyethylene pipe in hot sun or with a heat gun or hair 

dryer to make the fittings easier to install. 

The older style “insert fittings” should not be used. They 

grip the hose on the inside and can come loose and leak 

with fluctuating pressure or summer heat. 

Zone line should be run around the outside perimeter of 

all the plants served by that zone. From the polyethylene 

pipe to the plants, you will then install microtube(s). A drip 

emitter is placed at the end of each piece of microtube. 

The microtube is connected to the polyethylene pipe with 

a barbed connector. 

Make a hole in the zone line for this connection using 

a punch, a special tool available where you purchased the 

irrigation supplies. You can cut a hole with a knife or icepick, 

but if the hole is too large it will leak. If you have a 

leak, your only option is to cut out that section of hose and 

replace it with another section, connecting the replacement 

pipe with compression fittings. 

Standard installation will have at least one emitter at 

each plant. Trees will have three or more emitters, depending 

on size and water requirements. The goal should be to 

moisten at least 50 percent of the soil volume within the 

plant’s drip line. 

A plant’s drip line is not the same as an irrigation drip 

line. The plant drip line marks an imaginary area around 

the outer perimeter of the plant where rain would drip off 

of the leaves. It is here that the plant’s feeder roots, which 

absorb water and nutrients, are located. 

For healthy trees and shrubs that will resist being blown 

over by the wind, encourage wide rooting by placing emitters 

at the plant’s drip line. Because plants are continuously 

ItÕs best to Irrigate plants such as ground covers so that water is applied above the foliage, allowing coverage to be 

more uniform over the planting area. This microbubbler is elevated to provide an even application of water. 


growing and increasing in size, you will need to periodically 

adjust the location of the drip emitters, as well as add 

more emitters. 

With a zone line well away from the base of your large 

plants and with long microtubes, it is simple to move 

emitters as plants grow. Planning for future growth is 

important. 

Luckily, you can connect microtubing to the polyethylene 

pipe as many times as you want. Because drip emitters 

release water slowly, decreased water flow is not an issue. 

The only issue is that the length of each microtube should 

be less than 10 to 12 feet. 

Frequency of watering will depend on soil type and 

weather conditions. See Plants and Their Day-to-Day 

Water Needs, pages 27 to 29. 

Drip emitters usually come in 0.5, 1 or 2 gallons or more 

per hour (GPH) sizes. The variety of plant sizes, water 

needs, soil types and growing conditions can make selecting 

emitter sizes confusing. Plants growing beneath trees 

or in the shade of a structure will need less water than for 

the same plant species in an exposed location. However, 

many plants that prefer shade are actually very high water 

users, and may even require more water than the trees providing 

the shade. 

Because of the big difference in the comparative water 

requirements of small shrubs and large trees, they should 

be placed on separate zones (valve circuits). Mid-sized 

plants generally can share any zone available, by adjusting 

the number and size in GPH of the emitters that provide 

their water. 

Emitter size and placement also depends on soil type. 

Sandy soils drain so rapidly that water moves very little 

horizontally (from side to side) in the soil. Emitters must 

be spaced closer together in sandy soils to provide sufficient 

coverage of the root zone. If the area isn't windy, 

microspray heads may be more efficient than drip heads 

in such soils. 

Fine-textured (clay) soils allow drip emitters to soak 

wider areas, reducing the number of emitters needed. 

However, water spreads slowly downward through clay 

soils, so delivery time should be increased. 

On slopes, place emitters uphill 12 to 18 inches from the 

drip line of the plant. This way water flows down toward 

the plant to provide more adequate coverage. 

Often, many different plant types are planted close 

together in a home landscape. Some need more moisture 

than their neighbors. Drip emitters with different flow 

rates can be used at the same operating pressure to meet 

individual plant needs. Multiple outlet emitters also can be 

installed to apply more water to large trees or shrubs. 

When including lawn in your landscape, try to keep the design simple. This will make it easier to water, mow and trim 

edges efficiently. 


Emitter example: Two shrubs of similar size are planted 

on the same zone. Shrub A is a high-water user. It gets 5 

emitters that flow 1 GPH. Shrub B is a low-water user. It 

gets 3 emitters that flow at 1/2 GPH. The system operates 

for 6 hours once a week. Shrub A (high water) has 30 gallons 

to sustain it for the coming week. Shrub B (low water) 

has 9 gallons to sustain it. 

Keep in mind that this example is for established plants, 

not newly planted ones. Also note that all plants in the 

same zone (the same station) will be irrigated for the same 

amount of time. 

Specialized Irrigation Systems 

Vegetable Gardens—A vegetable garden should be on its 

own irrigation zone. Drip irrigation is an option, but speciality 

devices such as in-line drippers, multi-heads, porous 

hose or irrigation tape can also be used. Check your garden 

daily when the system is first installed to be certain plants 

are receiving adequate moisture. Once the summer garden 

is established, watering may be required only two to three 

times per week, depending on soil type and the garden’s 

exposure. 

Flowerbeds—Drip irrigation for special situations such 

as flowerbeds can be challenging. This is where specialty 

drip devices are of value, much the same as with vegetable 

gardens. Look to in-line drippers, multi-heads, porous 

hose, irrigation tape or bubblers to supply the varied water 

application needs of these plants. 

Ground Covers—If a desert-adapted ground cover is 

used, irrigation is simple. Due to low water needs, well 

spaced drip emitters will be ample as long as the run time 

evenly moistens the soil covered by the ground cover. 

If high-water use plants are installed, the homeowner 

may opt to use specialty devices such as in-line drippers, 

multi-heads, porous hose, irrigation tape or bubblers. 

Irrigating a Grass Lawn—A grass lawn should be on 

its own zone. The control valve must be an atmospheric 

breaker valve. The pipe for the entire zone should be rigid 

PVC pipe. 

An irrigation system that sprinkles water from overhead 

is usually the right choice for lawn irrigation. Depending 

on the size and shape of the lawn, install either pop-up 

sprinklers or pop-up rotors. 

Plan your system so the entire surface of the lawn is 

watered without overspraying any areas, or leaving areas 

dry. Avoid overspray on buildings or fences, which can 

cause extensive damage over time. Also avoid spraying 

surrounding landscape plants where fungal diseases or 

water spotting will become a problem. 

When the weather turns cool, homeowners often neglect 

watering Bermudagrass lawns. Never allow them to become 

bone dry, even if they are not overseeded. If winter rains 

are absent, irrigate at least once or twice a month. Doing so 

will allow the lawn to recover more promptly in spring. 

Retrofitting an Irrigation System 

Retrofitting an irrigation system usually occurs when homeowners 

move from lawn sprinklers or bubblers to drip 

irrigation. Most of the time, existing PVC piping can be 

utilized for the new system. 

Check operation of existing valves. These valves may 

need to be replaced with smaller valves designed for 

reduced flows. 

Drippers may be installed on existing PVC piping and 

irrigation-head risers by using a multi-head fitting. This 

allows you to connect 6, 8, or 12 lines of microtubing (with 

drip emitters on each microtube) from a single location cut 

into the PVC. If connecting multiheads to existing PVC is 

not an option in your landscape, you’ll have to install new 

polyethylene zone lines. 

Polyethylene pipe can be attached to PVC pipe with a 

special compression adapter. Polyethylene can be run from 

existing valves and placed where necessary to water plants 

in each zone. For best landscape appearance and longevity 

of the polyethylene pipe, bury it a few inches below the 

soil surface. 

A drip-irrigation controller must be capable of long cycle 

watering—from 1 to 6 hours. If it is electronic, it is probably 

adequate for the new system. Electro-mechanical controllers 

usually have 30- to 60-minute maximum run times 

per zone. If drip irrigation will be installed on an existing 

electro-mechanical station, it is best to replace it with an 

electronic weather-based controller. 

Maintaining and Troubleshooting Your 

Irrigation System 

When plants wilt or die, the cause may be a malfunction of 

the irrigation system. Regular maintenance of the system 

can usually prevent this. When problems occur, rational, 

systematic troubleshooting techniques can identify problems 

so you can make repairs. 

Maintenance and repairs are easier if you’ve planned 

the initial installation carefully. Controller wiring should 

be arranged so all valves operate in sequence as you walk 

around the house. Some controllers have an optional test 

cycle schedule built in, which is typically two to five minute 

per zone. 

Electrical problems can prove to be troublesome. Again, 

preventing problems with a quality installation is the 

best policy. Wire connectors at automatic control valves 

must be properly waterproofed or, better yet, use all UL 

approved connectors made for direct burial. 

Controllers should be on their own circuit breaker to 


prevent loss of power if another appliance malfunctions. 

Heat causes a lot of controller failure. To reduce controller 

failure caused by heat, position them out of direct sun— 

especially afternoon sun. Install away from air conditioning 

units, which produce heat. Replace backup batteries in 

time clocks at the beginning of each summer. 

Checking a Lawn Irrigation System 

To find out if water is being applied evenly throughout the 

lawn area, perform this simple test. First, set several empty 

coffee cans, tuna cans or other straight-sided containers on 

the lawn. Place in a grid pattern between sprinklers. Run 

spray head sprinklers for 15 minutes; run rotor head sprinklers 

for 30 minutes. After this allotted time, use a ruler to 

measure and record the depth of water collected in each 

container. By using containers that are all the same size 

(with identical surface areas), water volume for separate 

areas around the lawn can be compared by pouring them 

into a kitchen measuring cup. If there is a difference of 

more than 20 percent between maximum and minimum, 

identify problem spots and adjust sprinkler head flow 

rates. 

Most spray head irrigation systems spaced 12 to 15 feet 

apart should accumulate about 1/2 inch of water in 15 

minutes of operation. Most irrigation systems using larger 

rotor sprinklers spaced 25 to 40 feet apart will accumulate 

about 1/4-inch of water in 30 minutes. 

The lawn irrigation chart on page 34 is for established 

Bermudagrass lawns, watered during the cooler hours 

of the day. If you overseed with winter ryegrass in fall, 

increase water to meet the germination needs of the rye. 

The irrigation chart assumes normal weather conditions 

and sprinkler uniformity. Irrigation time should be 

increased when temperatures are above normal or conditions 

are windy, and decreased during rainy periods. 

Preventative Maintenance of Lawn Systems 

Operate the test cycle manually from the controller after 

each mowing to check for damaged or malfunctioning 

sprinkler heads. 

Heads must pop up to clear grass and pop down at the 

end of the cycle. If they do not, debris is clogging them or 

there is another problem. Clean and flush the heads. 

Look for clogs, rotors not turning, heads tilted out of 

alignment, or part-circle heads twisted out of horizontal 

alignment. Also check for head-to-head sprinkler coverage. 

Each sprinkler should throw water to just reach the 

area covered by the adjoining sprinkler. If it is coming up 

short, it could be caused by a major loss of pressure due 

to a broken head or pipe. This will need immediate repair. 

A broken sprinkler head can waste at least 500 gallons of 

water a week and continue to cause other sprinklers on the 

system to malfunction. 

A "double swing" joint installed on sprinkler heads usually 

prevents major damage to the installation. The best 

time to include the joint is when the system is installed. To 

make a double swing joint, lateral tees and ells are installed 

at 90 degrees to vertical and two-threaded street ells are 

installed before installing the sprinkler riser. Flexible risers 

can be installed on existing systems. 

Homeowner Alert—Be aware of possible liability problems 

caused by injuries from improperly placed sprinkler 

heads. Be sure all heads are below grade of adjacent walkways, 

but only slightly so. 

If lawns slope toward a structure or sprinklers throw 

water onto a structure, moisture can enter the wall, causing 

severe damage. Regrade planted areas so water drains away 

from structures. Replace or redirect errant sprinklers. 

Preventative Maintenance of Irrigation Systems 

Once per quarter, when you change the controller program 

to reflect the seasonal change, operate the test cycle. It 

allows you to see if each valve is coming on and shutting 

off properly. Run the system long enough to check all 

water delivery devices. 

Start at the beginning of the system with a check of each 

of the following: 

Water Meter—Check the flow routinely when the irrigation 

system is running. Changes in flow rate will warn of 

problems. Unusually fast flow is indicative of a leak. An 

abnormally slow flow indicates clogged filters or emitters. 

Some high-tech systems use electronic flow meters connected 

to controllers to automatically shut off a system or 

valve when the flow rate goes outside preset limits. When 

this happens, an error message is left for the user. 

Emergency Shut-off—Operate this valve to be sure it still 

works properly. By testing it once per quarter chances are 

it will not be frozen open when you need it to close. 

Filters—Although quarterly cleaning is a must, clean 

them more often if it is necessary to keep the system flowing 

without pressure loss. 

Controller—Check regularly that the correct time and day 

of week are displayed. 

Controller Program—Check and adjust every couple of 

weeks during spring and fall and every month or two during 

summer as needed. Keep pace with changing weather 

conditions unless a soil-moisture sensor override system or 

weather-based controller is used. 

If the controller is electronic, determine if it is running 

the personalized program you set it to run, instead of the 

default program. If the default program is running, check 

the battery backup system and replace batteries as needed. 

You will then have to reprogram the controller as well. 

Irrigation Schedule—For heavy water users, determine 


if at least 80 percent of daily evapotranspiration (ET) 

requirements are being met. Low-water use plants may 

require only 40 to 60 percent of daily ET, while lawns in 

late spring or early summer may be much higher. See irrigation 

guide for landscape plants, page 31, and irrigation 

guide for lawns, page 34. 

Irrigation Timing—Operate irrigation systems during the 

coolest time of the day in summer and early enough in the 

day in winter so plant leaves dry before dark. 

Valves—Check for flow. Be sure the optional manual 

override on automatic valves is not frozen open or shut. 

Pressure Gauge or Schrader Test Valve—This optional 

piece of equipment is set at the end of a micro-irrigation 

system to diagnose leak or pressure regulator problems. 

Drip System Lines—Flush lines quarterly by removing 

all of the end caps and running the system for about two 

minutes. Put the end caps in your pocket when you remove 

them so they won’t be washed away by the flow. Likewise, 

flush lines after breaks are repaired. 

Emitters—Check for clogs or lost emitters. Look for any 

leaks caused by damaged pipe or microtubing. 

Bubblers—Check for proper flow and any leaks. 

Runoff—During a normal irrigation cycle, check for water 

runoff. If water is running off, divide application into two 

or more cycles during the day separated by an hour of 

“soak-in time.” 

Diagnosing Irrigation Problems 

Valves fail to operate. This may happen after you tested 

the system and you forgot to return the automatic controller 

function switch to the “run” position. Professionals and 

amateurs alike make this error surprisingly often. 

In electronic systems, the second-most common reason 

the valves do not operate is a program set incorrectly. 

Examples include when the day is set to “off,” the “skip 

days” is incorrectly set or the “start time” is set to off. 

Valve failure can be caused by loose wires on the valve 

or controller. Check wire connections and tighten them. 

Sometimes the solenoid in the valve becomes defective. 

Test with a multimeter or volt meter. If it is bad, you may 

be able to replace the solenoid, or replace the entire valve. 

Valves open at the wrong times. This is due to incorrect 

programming of the automatic controller. It may be as 

simple as resetting the a.m. and p.m. setting of the clock. 

No display on the electronic controller. Power to the 

controller has been lost. Check the breaker. If it is OK, turn 

the breaker off and check controller wiring to the house 

current. 

Dry spots between sprinkler heads. Usually the result 

of a clogged or broken spray head. A broken riser or pipe 

below the riser can also be the problem, but not as often. 

Unclog the sprinkler head or repair the break. 

Occasionally, dry spots are the result of low water pressure. 

Dry spots a few feet from rotor heads with green 

interlinking rings farther out between heads or, in the case 

of spray heads, green around the head and dry in between, 

is typical of low pressure. Clean the filter to fix. 

Dry spots can be caused by misaligned spray heads. 

Check to see if they are perpendicular to the surface they 

are watering. 

A single dry spot that suddenly appears in the lawn is probably the result of one sprinkler failing. For example, one 

rotor head is not turning or there is a clogged nozzle. 


u 

c h a p t e r t h r e e 

Success with Desert 

Plants 

u 

Selecting plants for valley gardens can be a difficult task, because we 

have so many different species to choose from. Our sunny climate, 

mild winters and long growing season allow an extremely wide 

range of landscape plants to grow and thrive. 

Gardeners have among their choices “traditional” landscape plants— 

those that have been grown in the Coachella Valley for decades. Expanses 

of lawn bordered by hedges and bracketed by skyline palms, brought to 

life with colorful beds of annuals in the foreground, come to mind. This 

type of landscape may be visually appealing to many, but they require a 

tremendous amount of water to establish and maintain. 

After years of testing and research by pioneering landscape professionals, 

nurserymen and growers, a wide selection of new plants that are 

attractive and colorful, yet use much less water, are now available. Many 

are native to our region; others come from arid climates around the world. 

With a thoughtful eye toward design, these plants are gradually changing 

the face of our region. At the same time, they are greatly reducing the 

amount of water it takes to keep our landscapes attractive and thriving. 

As you look through the following pages, consider these new plants as 

candidates for your own landscape. In the long term, it is wise for all of 

us to select plants that are lush as well as water efficient. 

The colorful icons shown below help explain at a glance what each 

plant needs to grow successfully: preferred exposure to the sun, water 

requirements, plus each plant’s inherent ability to withstand cold. Because 

conditions are so variable from garden to garden, use these recommendations 

as a general guide. Note too, that the water recommendations are for 

established plants, which means plants have lived through two summers 

in our desert climate. 

Reflected Sun 

High Water. Water every day in summer. 

Full Sun 

Partial Sun 

Shade 

28° 

Moderate Water. Water every other day 

in summer. 

Low Water. Water two to three times per 

week in summer. 

Cold Hardiness in degrees Fahrenheit 

Left: California poppies partner 

with an agave for a colorful, 

low-water combination. 

Above: The lush, colorful 

flowers of Leucophyllum 

ÔGreen CloudÕ. 

Success with Desert Plants u 43

T R E E S 

l u s h & e f f i - 

Trees are extremely versatile plants, 

serving many different landscape functions. 

They can frame a desirable view, 

screen unsightly elements, help create 

privacy and provide a backdrop for a 

home or other plants. 

Trees provide permanent structure 

to a design, establish the scale of the 

landscape, give visual proportion to 

open space, and define the “ceiling” of 

the space. Several large trees can 

provide a landscape’s framework, with 

smaller trees, shrubs, vines and other 

plants playing supporting roles. 

44 u Success with Desert Plants

Acacia species 

Acacia 

Acacias are native to regions all around 

the globe. With almost 1,000 species, a 

wide variety of forms, textures and colors 

are available, including both evergreen 

and deciduous plants. Acacias are tolerant 

of heat and are generally low to moderate 

water users. Provide trees with deep, 

infrequent irrigations to help establish root 

systems. Flowers are individually tiny but 

are clustered into puffballs or long drooping 

flowerheads called catkins. 

Acacia aneura 

15° 

mulga 

Evergreen and thornless, mulga grows 

slowly to 20 feet high and 15 to 20 feet 

wide. Small, narrow, silvery gray leaves are 

leathery, similar to those of an olive tree, 

and are dense along the branches. Makes a 

fine windbreak and screen. Yellow catkins, 

the flowers, are heaviest during late spring 

into summer. Native to Australia. 

Acacia berlandieri 

15° 

guajillo 

Like many native American acacias, light 

green leaves are delicate and almost fernlike. 

Trees grow at a moderate rate from 10 

to 15 feet high and 12 feet wide. Fragrant, 

cream-colored, puffball flowers bloom in 

tune with spring weather. Plant in welldrained 

soil. Smallish thorns are usually 

not a serious hazard. Gradually prune 

lower branches to develop small tree form. 

Native to southern Texas and Mexico. 

Acacia craspedocarpa 

20° 

leatherleaf acacia 

Grows slowly from 10 to 15 feet high and 8 

feet wide with a rounded crown. Evergreen 

with rounded, upright gray-green leaves. 

Yellow puffball flowers bloom spring to 

summer. Prune into a tree or leave shrubby 

as an alternative to oleander, effective as a 

screen. Native to Australia. 

Below: Acacia 

craspedocarpa, leatherleaf 

acacia. 

Below left: Acacia aneura, 

mulga. 

Below right: Acacia berlandieri, 

guajillo. 

Trees u 45

Below: Acacia rigidula, 

blackbrush acacia. 

Below left: Acacia saligna, 

blue leaf wattle. 

Below center: Acacia 

salicina, willow acacia. 

Below right: Acacia willardiana, 

palo blanco. 

Acacia farnesiana 

10° 

sweet acacia 

(A. smallii, A. minuta). This is a medium, 

open, multi-trunk tree with vaselike form, 

fernlike leaves, small thorns, and fragrant 

flowers. Deciduous to semi-deciduous, 

grows at a moderate rate from 20 to 25 

feet high and as wide. Yellow puffball 

flowers are profuse in spring and produce 

a wonderful sweet fragrance. Avoid heavy 

pruning as it leads to problematic suckers. 

Native to Mexico. 

Acacia rigidula 

15° 

blackbrush acacia 

A slow-growing small tree or large shrub 

reaches 15 feet high and as wide. Tolerates 

heat and drought, but will also accept 

moist conditions, such as near lawns. The 

smooth, gray bark contrasts nicely against 

glossy green leaves that are cold deciduous. 

Long catkins of cream-colored flowers 

bloom in spring. Some plants have 

thorns. Native to Chihuahuan Desert. 

Acacia salicina 

20° 

willow acacia 

A low-water and enduring alternative to 

weeping willow, which is short-lived in 

desert regions. Graceful, pendulous evergreen 

leaves on trees that grow rapidly 

from 20 to 40 feet high, spreading 10 to 

20 feet wide. Creamy white puffball flowers 

bloom late summer into winter. Water 

deeply and well away from the trunk 

to avoid blow over during windstorms. 

Native to Australia. 

Acacia saligna 

blue leaf wattle, 

20° 

weeping wattle 

Rapid, aggressive, vertical growth with a 

dense canopy to 20 feet high with an equal 

spread. Evergreen leaves drape gracefully 

toward the ground. Yellow puffballs 

are mildly fragrant, appearing in spring. 



Acacia stenophylla 

15° 

shoestring acacia 

Strong, vertical and graceful, rapidly reaching 

25 to 30 feet high yet spreading only 

15 to 20 feet wide. This is an ideal tree for 

narrow spaces. Long, stringlike, soft graygreen, 

evergreen leaves up to 4 inches 

long hang from its branches. A clean tree 

that does not produce much litter—useful 

around pool and patio areas. Do not plant 

in lawns. Native to Australia. 

Acacia willardiana 

24° 

palo blanco 

With delicate, papery white bark, weeping 

branches, fine leaves and airy form, this 

small acacia provides an elegant touch to 

the landscape. Grows at a moderate rate, 

reaching 20 feet high and spreading to 15 

feet wide. Its open form allows planting 

of sun-loving perennials below it. Accepts 

heat, even reflected heat of south-facing 

walls. Native to subtropical Sonora, 

Mexico. 

Albizia julibrissin 

10° 

silk tree, 

mimosa tree 

A deciduous tree that grows rapidly from 

25 to 35 feet high and as wide. Develops 

a wide canopy with graceful, light green, 

feathery foliage. Best to stake young trees 

to develop form. Produces an abundance 

of rich pink, silky flowers in summer and 

sporadically at other times of the year. As 

flowers and pods drop, they create litter. A 

nice tree to view from above. Occasional 

deep watering is essential, otherwise, the 

tree is typically short-lived. Native to Asia. 

Arecastrum 

25° 

romanzoffianum 

queen palm 

(Syagrus romanzoffianum). Grows with a 

straight trunk 25 to 40 feet high with graceful, 

arching, feathery leaves. It responds 

to regular moisture and fertilizer during 

warm periods, but encouraging too-rapid 

growth can cause fronds to break. Locate 

Below left: Acacia 

stenophylla, shoestring 

acacia. 

Below right: Acacia 

farnesiana, sweet acacia. 

Below: Albizia 

julibrissin, silk tree. 

Trees u 47

Top left: Brahea armata, 

Mexican blue palm. 

Above: Bauhinia 

lunarioides, white 

orchid tree. 

Above right: Bauhinia 

variegata, purple 

orchid tree. 

48 u Success with Desert Plants 

in areas protected from strong winds. 

Protect young trees when temperatures 

drop below 30°F. Water deeply when sustained 

high temperatures reach 110°F to 

120°F. A clean plant to have around pools. 

Native to Brazil. 

Bauhinia species 

Orchid Tree 

Depending on the species, Bauhinia are 

native to the Chihuahuan Desert or to Asia. 

The Asian species are very frost tender, 

but the Chihuahuan natives are rough, 

and tough, and can take heat and cold. 

Bauhinia leaves are butterfly-shaped, but 

you’ll want to grow them for their gorgeous, 

orchidlike flowers. 

Bauhinia blakeana 

32° 

hong kong orchid tree 

Grows at a moderate rate from 15 to 20 

feet high and wide. Abundant maroon to 

pink flowers bloom from December to 

April, and are quite dramatic in size and 

color. Deep water at drip line of tree about 

once each week in summer. Plant in welldrained 

soil. Native to China. 

Bauhinia lunarioides 

15° 

white orchid tree 

(B. congesta). Another common name for 

this plant is Chihuahuan orchid shrub. It 

can be pruned into a small tree but usually 

is more shrublike, growing slowly to 

15 feet high. Produces large clusters of 

fragrant, white or pink flowers in spring. 

Water deeply every three weeks during 

summer. Native to Chihuahuan Desert. 

Bauhinia purpurea 

25° 

purple orchid tree 

Grows at a moderate rate to 30 feet high 

with umbrella-shaped canopy and graygreen 

leaves. Water deeply about once 

every week during summer. Native to 

India. 

Bauhinia variegata 

25° 

purple orchid tree 

Like Bauhinia purpurea, also called the 

purple orchid tree. It forms a dense, 

medium green crown at a moderate to 

rapid rate up to 25 feet high with an

equal spread. Profuse magenta to purple 

flowers cover the branches in late winter. 

White-flowered forms are available. 

Mature trees can be seen throughout the 

Coachella Valley. Native to India and 

China. 

Brachychiton 

populneus 

18° 

bottle tree 

Adapted to hot, dry and windy conditions. 

Evergreen, shiny, dark green leaves cover 

a pyramidal form that grows at a moderate 

rate from 30 to 50 feet high, spreading to 

20 feet wide. Water at the tree’s drip line 

(see page 29) to encourage a deep, widespreading 

root system. Prune in winter to 

remove dead wood and control wayward 

branches. Leaf drop occurs in early spring 

as new leaves crowd out the old ones. Seed 

pods drop in late summer. Acidify soil to 

avoid chlorosis. Native to Australia. 

Brahea armata 

18° 

mexican blue palm 

(Erythea armata). Slowly grows from 20 to 

30 feet high, spreading only 10 feet wide, 

making it well-suited to small gardens. 

Icy blue fan-shaped fronds are an attractive 

feature. Use as an accent or blend 

with other silvery-leaved plants. Low litter 

plant, good near pools. Mature plants 

feature creamy flower clusters 6 to 10 feet 

long in summer. Native to Baja California. 

Brahea edulis 

24° 

guadalupe island palm 

Featuring light green fan-shaped fronds, 

this fan palm grows slowly to 30 feet 

high, and spreads to about 10 feet at 

maturity. An ideal palm accent in small 

areas or around pools—it can take extreme 

heat and reflected light. Provide monthly 

deep waterings in summer heat. Native to 

Guadalupe Islands in Baja California. 

Butia capitata 

15° 

pindo palm 

(Cocos australis). Accepts frost and 

extreme heat and sun—hardships of every 

kind. Grows slowly 10 to 20 feet high 

with an equal spread. Gray-green, feathery 

leaves are long and graceful. Uniquely 

rugged trunk shows off the former leaf 

Above left: Bauhinia 

blakeana, Hong Kong 

orchid tree. 

Above: Brachychiton 

populneus, bottle tree. 

Trees u 49

Top left: Ceratonia 

siliqua, carob. 

Above: Caesalpinia 

cacalaco, cascalote. 

Above right: 

Callistemon viminalis, 

weeping 

bottlebrush. 

bases, helping making this palm an ideal 

accent plant. Apply fertilizer to the soil if 

leaves yellow. Native to Brazil, Uruguay 

and Argentina. 

Caesalpinia cacalaco 

20° 

cascalote 

An attractive, vase-shaped small tree, 

growing at a moderate rate to 15 feet high 

and almost as wide. Spikes of clear yellow 

flowers bloom at the branch tips late winter 

into early spring. Flowers can be damaged 

by late frosts. Avoid by planting in a protected 

location. Luxuriant foliage is armed 

with rose-sized thorns, so place away from 

pedestrian traffic. Plant in well-drained 

soil. Prune after the flowering season ends 

to control ungainly growth. Native to Vera 

Cruz, Mexico. 

Callistemon viminalis 

22° 

weeping bottlebrush 

An exceptional small tree that grows at 

a moderate rate from 20 to 30 feet high 

with a 15-foot spread. This freely branching 

evergreen has pendulous branches that 

become covered with magnificent, red, 

bottlebrush flowers midspring and summer. 

Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. 

Do not plant in lawns—the roots do 

not like to be that moist. Also avoid windy 

locations. Native to Australia. 

Callistemon citrinus is similar but has a 

less weeping form. 

Ceratonia siliqua 

carob, 

20° 

st. john’s bread 

This is a large, wide-spreading evergreen 

tree growing from 20 to 40 feet high and 

as wide. Moderate rate of growth. Carob’s 

round-headed form is densely branched 

and provides deep, cooling, welcoming 

shade. Compound leaves are a lush, shiny 

deep green. Female plants develop long, 

brown seed pods that can be messy. Male 

plants do not produce pods. Water deeply 

and infrequently to encourage deep rooting. 

Young trees need cold protection 

below 25°F. Native to the Mediterranean. 


Cercidium species were recently 

reclassified as Parkinsonia. 

See page 58. 

Chamaerops humilis 

18° 

mediterranean fan palm 

This is a slow-growing, multitrunked fan 

palm. Dwarfish in habit, it’s a fine palm 

for a small yard. Attains height of 10 to 

12 feet at maturity. Faster growth with 

regular water and fertilizer during warm 

season. Leaves are small and abundant, the 

petioles (see page 153) armed with sharp 

spines. Plants may sucker freely, spreading 

to form a dense clump. A handsome tub 

plant or a featured plant near pools. Native 

to the Mediterranean and north Africa. 

Chilopsis linearis 

desert willow 

This light, airy, 25- to 30-foot deciduous 

tree is perfect for locations where you need 

summer shade but want winter sun, such as 

on the south side of the house. Graceful, 

light-green leaves provide a splendid backdrop 

to clusters of large, orchid-like flowers 

that come in a wide variety of pinks, 

reds and purples. Many horticultural varieties 

of this lovely tree are now available, 

including some which flower spring 

and summer. Do any heavy pruning during 

the deciduous period—December into 

February. Prune to control growth, create 

new flowering wood and to display the 

handsome, smooth gray trunks. Native to 

Sonoran and Chihuahuan desert arroyos, it 

does best in soil with good drainage. 

Chitalpa X 

tashkentensis 

0° 

chitalpa 

This tree is a hybrid from Russia that is a 

cross of two genera, Chilopsis linearis and 

Catalpa bignonioides. Chitalpa combines 

some of the best characteristics of both 

plants. It is more evergreen and has larger, 

more vivid, white or pink flower clusters 

compared to its parents. Mature size of 20 

to 30 feet high and as wide works well in 

most small gardens. Accepts partial shade. 

Availability at nurseries may be limited, 

but worth the search. 

Top left: Chilopsis 

linearis, desert willow. 

Left: Chamaerops humilis, 

Mediterranean fan palm. 

Above: Chitalpa X tashkentensis, 

chitalpa. 

Trees u 51

Below: Dalbergia sissoo, 

Indian rosewood. 

Below center: Cupressus 

arizonica, Arizona cypress. 

Below right: Cupressus 

sempervirens, Italian 

cypress. 

Chorisia speciosa 

silk floss tree, 

26° 

kapok 

Also called the drunkard’s tree, because 

the mature trees look like a giant, lime 

green Chianti bottle topped with spreading 

boughs. Trunk has distinctive thorns. (See 

photo page 53.) In fall, profuse numbers of 

large, rose to wine-colored flowers appear, 

followed by seed pods filled with white 

cottony kapok, once used to fill life vests. 

Trees can reach 30 to 50 feet high and 

spread 25 to 40 feet, so they’re not a good 

choice for a small garden. Occasionally 

deciduous prior to bloom period. Avoid 

windy locations. Water deeply. Native to 

Brazil and Argentina. 

Cupressus arizonica 

arizona cypress 

This is a superior, medium-sized evergreen 

for use as a windbreak or tall screen 

in low-maintenance situations. Grows at 

a moderate rate from 30 to 40 feet high 

and 30 feet wide with a pyramidal form. 

Gray-green, scalelike foliage varies from 

plant to plant. Branches have a distinct 

whipcord texture. Thrives in low-rainfall 

areas when established. Resistant to 

cypress canker. 

‘Gareei’ is a grafted selection, which 

means plants will consistently have rich, 

silvery, blue-green foliage. ‘Blue Ice’ features 

silvery-blue foliage. ‘Compacta’ has 

a more compact growth form. 

Note: Cupressus arizonica is often called 

rough-barked Arizona cypress, and C. glabra 

as smooth-barked Arizona cypress. 

Rough-barked Arizona cypress is known 

to perform better in the Coachella Valley. 

Cupressus 

sempervirens 

10° 

italian cypress 

This tall, vertical accent tree is often used 

in formal landscapes. It is propagated by 

cuttings rather than grown from seed to 

reproduce its desired qualities. The distinctive, 

narrow and dense columnar form 

reaches 20 to 60 feet high. 

Red spider mites can appear in summer 

and kill drought-stressed trees. Water 

deeply every three weeks to avoid this 

problem. Treat mites when they appear. 

Native to the Mediterranean. 

‘Glauca’ has attractive, bluish green, 

juniperlike foliage. ‘Stricta’ is similar in 

form and size with dark green foliage. 


Dalbergia sissoo 

30° 

indian rosewood 

This is a moderately fast growing shade tree 

that generally reaches 40 feet high and 30 

wide with a rounded crown. Evergreen to 

cold-deciduous with below-freezing temperatures, 

but recovers quickly in spring. 

Bright glossy, lush green leaves make 

this a pleasant shade tree. Wide spreading 

roots are useful to stabilize erosion-prone 

banks and slopes. This is not commercial 

rosewood, but is used in its native India as 

a timber tree. 

Dalea spinosa 

22° 

desert smoke tree 

(Recently reclassified as Psorothamnus spinosus.) 

This native of the Mojave and 

Sonoran Desert is often overlooked when 

planning a landscape, and that is a shame. 

Native to the Coachella Valley region, it 

survives wonderfully without much care 

other than shaping young trees into tree 

form (if desired). Grows better with some 

extra water; its natural habitat is along 

desert washes. Does best in sandy to rocky 

soils. 

This small tree is well-suited to today’s 

smaller lots. Unlike many other desert 

trees, it fills in densely to provide an effective 

screen. Grows at a slow to moderate 

rate from 15 feet high and as wide. In 

late spring the silvery gray, smoky-looking 

branches are virtually obscured by 

the striking, fragrant, deep purple-blue 

blooms. 

Eriobotrya japonica 

15° 

loquat, japanese plum 

Lush, tropical-looking fruit tree that grows 

at a moderate rate to 15 feet high and as 

wide with a rounded crown. Plant in a location 

protected from high winds, and where 

it will receive afternoon shade. Woolly, 

cream-colored flowers in fall produce 

delicious, pear-shaped clusters of fruit in 

spring. Trees will recover from hard freezes, 

but fruit are damaged at about 28°F. 

For highest quality fruit, select a named 

grafted cultivar such as ‘Champagne’, or 

‘Thales’. Native to Japan and China. 

Eucalyptus species 

Eucalyptus 

All of the readily available species of 

eucalyptus are evergreen and grow rap- 

Below left: Chorisia 

speciosa, silk floss tree. 

Below: Eriobotrya 

japonica, loquat. 

Trees u 53

Below: Eucalyptus cinerea, 

silver dollar tree. 

Below right: Eucalyptus 

spathulata, swamp malee. 

idly when young. The trees are evergreen, 

but individual leaves are constantly being 

shed with new leaves replacing them. 

This makes them poor choices near pools. 

Twigs and bark of some species also create 

litter. Most species produce flowers that 

are generally inconspicuous cream-colored 

puffs followed by small seed pods. 

Natives of Australia, many species of 

eucalyptus have been imported to the West, 

where they are used in home and commercial 

landscapes. Initially, they served to 

drain swampy areas, and planted as windbreaks 

to protect orchards and homesites. 

They continue these utilitarian roles today. 

A serious pest, eucalyptus thrips, can kill 

trees if not controlled. Treat for thrips 

when you first discover them. 

Selecting eucalyptus for a home landscape 

requires careful planning, because 

many species grow to 60 feet or even higher—much 

too large for most residences. 

Smaller species are better suited to the size 

and scale of most home lots. Be particularly 

careful when selecting trees if power 

lines are part of your landscape. Encourage 

deep, wide-spreading roots with deep and 

wide watering, ideally with drip irrigation. 

Eucalyptus cinerea 

15° 

silver dollar tree 

Medium-sized tree from 20 to 50 feet 

high. It has a tendency to form multiple 

trunks, which make it attractive when 

viewed as a silhouette. Gray-green, rounded 

leaves grow as opposites along the 

stems. Juvenile leaves are excellent for cut 

foliage in flower arrangements. Tolerates 

wind, and can be planted 10 to 15 feet apart 

as a windbreak. Accepts lawn conditions. 

Eucalyptus microtheca 

10° 

coolibah 

Graceful tree from 20 to 40 feet high, but 

tends to take on a leaning posture unless 

staked when young. Best results when 

trained as a single trunk. Trunks of older 

trees eventually become brown and corky. 

Can be used as a windbreak, with less fragile 

branches than other species. 

Eucalyptus papuana 

20° 

ghost gum 

Grow this stately eucalyptus for its notable, 

smooth, snowy white trunk. Grows at 

a moderate rate, reaching from 20 to 60 

feet high and 15 to 30 feet wide, often with 


multiple trunks. Leaves are leathery, gray 

to medium green, and pendulous, making 

it a good specimen tree for the landscape. 

Eucalyptus spathulata 

18° 

swamp malee 

Evergreen, compact and handsome, with 

multiple trunks. Smooth, reddish to tan, 

peeling bark adds a sculptural effect. 

Grows at a moderate rate 15 to 30 feet high 

with an equal spread. Graceful, ribbonlike 

leaves 2 to 3 inches long are grayish green. 

Makes an excellent screen or windbreak. 

Its size, color and texture allows swamp 

malee to blend better with desert vegetation 

than most other eucalyptus. Tolerates 

salty, poor soil, and can be planted near 

lawns. 

Eysenhardtia 

orthocarpa 

15° 

kidneywood 

(E. polystachya). A small, thornless tree to 15 

feet high, sometimes more, spreading to 10 

feet wide. It tends to be multitrunked, and 

can be kept as a shrub. Grows at a moderate 

rate with an open and airy form. Light 

green, compound leaves allow for excellent 

filtered light for plants such as perennials 

or small shrubs underneath. Accepts 

some shade. Fragrant white flower spikes 

are pollinated by butterflies, and bloom 

through summer. Native to Arizona. 

Fraxinus uhdei 

‘Majestic Beauty’ 

majestic beauty, 

22° 

evergreen ash 

Vigorous growth, reaching 50 to 60 feet 

high with 50-foot spread. Strong branching 

habit. Exceptionally large, compound, 

glossy, dark green leaves add splendor 

to this medium-sized, round-headed tree. 

Cold-deciduous below 30°F. More uniform 

growth than other ashes and more 

cold tolerant, but leaves may burn if subjected 

to hot winds. Deep irrigation helps 

reduce surface rooting. Parent stock native 

to streamsides in Mexico. 

Geijera parviflora 

30° 

australian willow 

This evergreen, graceful, fine-textured tree 

grows at a moderate rate, reaching 15 to 25 

feet high and 15 to 20 feet wide. Rounded 

to pyramidal in form, it remains small 

Below left: Eysenhardtia 

orthocarpa, kidneywood. 

Below center: Eucalyptus 

microtheca, coolibah. 

Below: Geijera parviflora, 

Australian willow. 

Trees u 55

Above top: Lagerstroemia 

indica, crape myrtle. 

Above and above center: 

Lysiloma watsonii var. 

thornberi, feather tree. 

Above right: Jacaranda 

mimosifolia, jacaranda. 

enough for patios. Plant it for the weeping 

willow appearance created by the medium 

green, strap-shaped leaves. Uniform 

growth at a moderate rate can be accelerated 

with additional water. Good soil 

drainage is essential. Native to Australia. 

Jacaranda mimosifolia 

20° 

jacaranda 

(J. acutifolia). This is a large, round-headed, 

semievergreen tree that grows at a moderate 

to rapid rate 30 to 50 feet high and 15 

to 30 feet wide. Best for parks, commercial 

use or large residences due to its size. Lacy, 

fernlike, green leaves and large clusters of 

attractive, lavender-blue flowers bloom 

profusely May and June, producing an 

appealing tropical effect. As flowers drop, 

they produce a fair amount of litter, so 

avoid locating trees near swimming pools. 

Plant in soil with good drainage. Water 

deeply to reduce development of surface 

roots but do not overwater. Water weekly 

in growing season, but only once or twice 

during dormant winter period. Suckers if 

pruned too drastically. Native to Brazil. 

Koelreuteria bipinnata 

28° 

chinese flame tree 

(K. integrifolia). Grown in part for its 

small, yellow, summer flowers. These 

become inflated papery pods that resemble 

miniature Chinese lanterns. As the season 

progresses, the pods change from a creamy 

white to orange-red and brown. Makes a 

nice shade tree from 20 to 35 feet high 

with an equal spread. Trees develop sturdy 

trunks that are often irregular, but light 

pruning of young trees can direct growth. 

Plant in well-drained soil. Deciduous, with 

variable fall color. Native to China. 

Lagerstroemia indica 

15° 

crape myrtle 

Vigorous deciduous tree or shrub that 

offers year-round interest. Can be trained 

to become a quality tree to 25 feet, admired 

for its striking clusters of flowers that 

bloom summer into fall. Foliage turns 

bright shades of orange, yellow or red in 

fall. After leaves drop, the satiny, pale, 

sculptural bark adds close-up interest. 

Avoid planting in lawn areas, which can 

cause plants to develop mildew problems, 

as will excessive humidity. Can be grown 

in containers. Many hybrids and cultivars 

are available in a range of flower colors, 

including white, pink, red, magenta, lavender 

and purple. Native to China. 


Lysiloma watsonii 

var. thornberi 

28° 

feather tree 

(L. microphylla var. thornberi). Finely divided, 

fernlike foliage provides a lush, tropical 

effect. Creates dappled shade that can 

accommodate underplantings of perennials 

and small shrubs—highly effective in a 

mini-oasis setting. By the time plants are 

6 to 10 years old, the multitrunk growth 

can reach 15 to 20 feet. It also can be 

grown as a shrub. After a spring show 

of creamy white, puffball flowers, seed 

pods are numerous enough to create litter 

in early summer, but are easy to remove. 

Avoid pruning large branches in summer. 

Plant in full sun in soil with good drainage. 

Overwatering during summer can 

create chlorotic conditions. Although it 

can freeze to the ground, it will regrow as a 

large shrub. Native to Sonora, Mexico. 

Melaleuca 

quinquenervia 

28° 

cajeput tree 

Slender, vertical, evergreen tree from 20 to 

35 feet high, spreading 10 to 20 feet wide. 

Bark is white to light brown, thick, corky 

and peels off the trunk in sheets. Rich 

green foliage is graceful, thickly covering 

the branches. Thin branches as necessary 

as tree ages, but do not top. Stands up to 

strong winds. Slender spikes of creamy 

white flowers adorn branches in summer. 

Water deeply to encourage deep rooting. 

Accepts some shade. Native to Australia. 

A related species, Melaleuca alternifolia, 

is the source of “tea tree oil.” 

Olea europaea 

15° 

fruitless olive 

Olive is a time-honored, quality, evergreen 

tree with an informal, picturesque growth 

habit. Grows at slow to moderate rate 20 

to 30 feet high and as wide, as a standard 

form, or with multiple trunks. With time, 

trunks become gnarled, adding to the tree’s 

character. Distinctive, narrow, gray-green 

leaves reach up to 3 inches long. Olive 

fruit can become a problem, littering and 

staining pavement. Pollen production also 

affects many people with allergies. ‘Swan 

Hill’ is a fruitless selection. 

Accepts low water applications, but 

additional moisture produces a more handsome 

tree. Avoid heavy pruning, especially 

late spring through summer, which can 

allow sun to damage trunk. Keep lower 

trunks shaded. If trees are pruned up, 

they will sucker profusely to shade them- 

Above left: The distinctive 

bark of Melaleuca 

quinquenervia, cajeput tree. 

Above: Olea europaea, 

olive. 

Trees u 57

Below: Parkinsonia 

hybrid ÔDesert 

MuseumÕ, Desert 

Museum palo verde. 

Below left: Parkinsonia 

floridum, blue 

palo verde. 

Below right: Olneya 

tesota, desert ironwood. 

selves. (Pull off suckers rather than pruning 

them.) Olives accept almost any soil, 

endure heat, cold and wind. Native to the 

Mediterranean. 

Olneya tesota 

20° 

desert ironwood 

Just as olive trees create a focal point in 

the landscape, desert ironwood possesses 

a similar presence, with gray-green foliage 

and gray trunks with real character. 

Lavender, pealike flowers give trees 

an otherworldly glow in April and May, 

attracting bees in abundance. Slow growing 

from 25 to 30 feet high and as wide. It 

requires some patience but the reward of a 

quality, long-lived tree is worth the wait. 

Sharp thorns on branches can be a safety 

hazard near walkways as well as when 

pruning trees. Requires well-drained soil. 

Native to the Sonoran Desert. 

Parkinsonia species 

Palo Verde 

(Cercidium species). These American desert 

natives provide a definite personality to 

the landscape. They are easily recognized 

due to their blue-green to green bark, naturally 

occurring multiple trunks and graceful 

elegance. Most are wide spreading from 

25 to 35 feet with a similar height, which 

varies according to the species, moisture, 

and soil type. Masses of yellow flowers 

cover the trees in April and early May. All 

tolerate extremes of heat, sun, and soils, 

although they do best well-drained soils. 

Parkinsonia floridum 

10° 

blue palo verde 

Blue palo verde is one of the most colorful 

desert trees. The strong, multitrunk 

form grows rapidly, developing a spreading 

canopy to 35 feet high and 30 feet 

wide, producing filtered shade. Luxuriant, 

golden yellow flowers appear in profusion 

March into April. Bark is a striking bluish 

green. With age, main trunk darkens 

to brown. Encourage its natural, angular 

form and avoid pruning heavily at any one 

time, which can interrupt growth patterns. 


Parkinsonia 

microphylla 

little leaf palo verde, 

10° 

foothills palo verde 

Bark is lime-green. It grows slowly to 20 

feet high, with a smaller, stiffer appear- 


ance than Parkinsonia floridum. Tree is 

semideciduous—leaflets drop in cold or 

drought. Yellow flowers appear April into 

May. Slow growth rate can be accelerated 

by supplying additional moisture. Twiggy 

growth and low canopy provide shelter 

for wildlife. Ideal background tree or for 

screening. After young trees are established, 

electively thin branches to show 

off interesting trunk structure. Makes an 

excellent small patio tree with character. 

Native to Arizona and Baja California. 

Parkinsonia hybrid 

‘Desert Museum’ 

desert museum 

15° 

palo verde 

This superior Parkinsonia is a result of 

hybridizing work involving P. floridum, 

P microphyllum and P. aculeata, Mexican 

palo verde. This work was performed 

at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum 

in Tucson. Growth pattern of thornless 

ascending branches produces a sturdy 

structure and strong vertical form. Mature 

height is 25 feet to 30 feet with 20-foot 

spread. Flowers are rich yellow. The main 

bloom occurs during spring, although it 

flowers sporadically during summer with 

supplemental irrigation. Plant in deep soil. 

Parkinsonia praecox 

palo brea, 

25° 

sonoran palo verde 

Grows slowly into a 15- to 25-foot tree. 

Vivid yellow flower clusters bloom in 

April into May. Palo brea has a more 

upright structure and thornier branches 

than other Parkinsonia species, with distinctive, 

sculptural, angular branches. Bark 

on trunks and branches remains green, 

even as tree ages. Occasional deep watering 

improves appearance. Native to southern 

Sonora, Mexico. 

Phoenix dactilyfera 

20° 

date palm 

These trees are large and picturesque, 

plus they produce tasty fruit, but they are 

not the right choice for a small garden 

or home. Plants grow slowly but when 

mature, they reach up to 60 feet high with 

a trunk 2 to 3 feet in diameter. Young 

trees need space, the fronds spreading 

to 25 feet across. Near the trunk, the 

bases of the feather-shaped leaves have 

stout thorns. Requires moderate watering 

throughout summer for trees to look 

their best. Be aware that fruit drop can 

be messy, especially around pools and 

patios. Native to northern Africa. 

Above left: Parkinsonia 

floridum, blue palo 

verde. 

Above right: Parkinsonia 

praecox, palo brea. 

Above: Phoenix 

dactilyfera, date palm. 

Trees u 59

Above top: Pinus 

eldarica, Afghan pine. 

Above right: Pinus 

pinea, Italian stone 

pine. 

Above: Pistacia chinensis, 

Chinese pistachio. 


Pinus species 

Pine 

Pines can be grown successfully in the 

Coachella Valley, as long as adapted species 

are selected. Some pines can become 

quite large, so exercise caution when 

choosing trees for residential-scale landscapes. 

Pines evoke a feeling of the mountains 

and create a cooling mood, but it is 

challenging to blend them with other arid 

land plants. 

Pinus eldarica 

afghan pine, 

10° 

mondale pine 

(P. brutia). Rapid pyramidal growth from 

30 to 40 feet high and to 25 feet wide. 

Accepts heat, severe wind, cold and a variety 

of soils. In well drained soil, roots are 

better able to penetrate, allowing for deep 

rooting and more prolific growth. Use as 

an attractive, dense windscreen or featured 

landscape tree. Tolerates windy conditions. 

Native to Afghanistan. 

Similar in appearance is P. halepensis, 

Aleppo pine. Native to the hills of 

Lebanon, Aleppo pine often suffers from 

spider mites, and generally does not tolerate 

Coachella Valley conditions long term 

as well as the Afghan pine. 

Pinus pinea 

5° 

italian stone pine 

This pine is broadly conical when young, 

then becomes spreading and flat-topped 

(shaped like an umbrella) as it ages. Mature 

size is 25 to 40 feet high, spreading to 25 

feet wide. Grows at a slow to moderate 

rate. Picturesque trunk and branch structure 

develop over time. Needles are bright 

green. This tree produces the edible pignolia 

nut. Native to southern Europe. 

Pistacia chinensis 

chinese pistachio 

Moderate growing, long-lived tree from 

30 to 40 feet high with a broad-spreading 

canopy that produces dense shade. 

Deciduous, with bright green, compound 

leaves that turn intense crimson colors 

in fall months. Accepts a wide variety of

adverse conditions. Does best with periodic 

deep soaking of soil around the root 

zone. Native to China. 

Pistacia lentiscus 

15° 

evergreen pistachio 

A slow growing, wide-spreading, evergreen 

tree, reaching 15 to 20 feet high 

with a spread to 30 feet wide. The dense, 

attractive, bluish green foliage makes this 

a highly useful background tree or screen. 

Flowers are inconspicuous. Tolerates 

drought, heat and salty soils. Native to the 


Pithecellobium 

flexicaule 

10° 

texas ebony 

(Newly reclassified as Ebanopsis ebano.) 

The dense, dark green leaves and spiny 

twigs of Texas ebony can develop into 

a great security barrier. Even without a 

utilitarian use in mind, its picturesque 

form makes this a desirable tree for a small 

garden. Avoid planting near walkways or 

other pedestrian traffic areas due to its 

small, sharp thorns. A slow grower, the 

mature height is 20 to 30 feet with a spread 

of 15 to 20 feet, but this will take many 

years. Fragrant, cream-colored flowers add 

color in late spring, they are followed by 

large, decorative, woody, brown seed pods. 

Grows in almost any well-drained soil. 

Native to Texas and New Mexico. 


mexicanum 

15° 

mexican ebony 

(Newly reclassified as Havardia mexicana.) 

Lovely, smooth, gray bark and a 

naturally rounded form make this a great 

addition to the landscape. A moderately 

fast grower, reaching around 30 feet high 

and as wide but usually less in a low desert 

climate. Its fine-textured, gray-green 

foliage is cold deciduous. Creamy yellow 

puffball flowers appear in spring, followed 

by ornate woody brown pods. Best when 

planted in well drained soil. Native to 

Sonora and Baja California. 

Pittosporum 

Top left: Pistacia 

lentiscus, evergreen 

pistachio. 

Above left: 


flexicaule, Texas ebony. 

Above: Pithecellobium 

mexicanum, Mexican 

ebony. 

Trees u 61

Below and below center 

(top): Prosopis glandulosa 

var. glandulosa, honey 

mesquite. 

Below center (bottom): 

Prunus cerasifera ÔKrauter 

VesuviusÕ, purple plum. 

Below right: Pittosporum 

phillyraeoides, 

willow pittosporum. 

phillyraeoides 

Prosopis chilensis 

20° 15° 

willow pittosporum 

chilean mesquite 

This is a handsome, evergreen tree, reaching 

15 to 20 feet high, spreading 10 to 15 ity to provide fast shade and screening. 

This mesquite is admired for its abil- 

feet wide. Moderate growth rate. Light, Young trees need staking and adequate 

gray-green, ribbony leaves to 4 inches ties to help support heavy top growth. 

long “weep” downward. Makes a fine vertical 

accent. Stake young trees to provide growth at any one time to prevent sunburn 

Thin no more than 20 percent of interior 

a straight start. Small, fragrant, yellow damage. Do not plant within 15 feet of 

flowers bloom late winter to early spring. walls because roots tend to be shallow. 


Water deep and wide to encourage deep, 

extensive root system that will help trees 

stand up to strong winds. Moderate thorns. 

Prosopis species 

Avoid planting near pools because litter 

can be a problem throughout the year. 

Mesquite 

Native to Chile. 

Mesquites offer quite a lot to Coachella 

Valley gardeners. Their size, form, color 

and texture are in tune with the desert, 

helping provide a suitable sense of place. 

In fact, native mesquites are excellent for 

residential landscapes. Their quick rate 

of growth, cooling, sheltering shade and 

low maintenance make mesquites natural 

choices. In recent years, the number of 

selections available to home gardeners has 

increased. Each has special merit. 

Prosopis glandulosa 

var. glandulosa 

0° 

honey mesquite 

Less rigid in growth form than other mesquites, 

honey mesquite has a graceful, 

slightly weeping form that closely resembles 

Schinus molle, California pepper. (See 

page 66.) It grows at a moderate rate from 

15 to 30 feet high with an equal spread. 

Young branches are thorny. Small, bright 

green leaves are deciduous (leaves drop 

in winter). Naturally deep-rooted. Native 


to Chihuahuan Desert, and as far north as 

Oklahoma. 

Prosopis 

hybrid ‘Phoenix’ 

15° 

‘phoenix’ mesquite 

A hybrid with a number of parents, this 

new cultivar grows quickly but not excessively 

so, reaching 30 feet high and as 

wide. Features the dense green foliage of 

Argentine mesquite, but without thorns, 

and with the deep-rooting characteristic of 

honey mesquite. 

Prosopis velutina 

15° 

velvet mesquite 

This native mesquite grows to 30 feet 

high with an equal spread. Foliage is a 

velvety gray-green, and semideciduous. 

Seed pods are edible and were a staple 

food of natives. Young branches have 

small thorns that become less abundant 

with maturity. With age, trunks take on a 

gnarled and shaggy appearance, resulting 

in trees of great character. Young trees 

are slow growing and character is more 

shrublike. Additional water will increase 

size and growth rate. Native to southeastern 

Arizona into Texas. 

Prunus caroliniana 

‘Bright ‘n Tight’ 

20° 

cherry laurel 

This is a specially selected strain of 

Carolina laurel cherry, with tight, compact 

growth 8 to 20 feet high. Glossy, deep 

green, evergreen leaves on an upright plant 

that can be either a small multi-trunked 

tree or large shrub. Small creamy white 

flowers in March are followed by blackish 

red berries that birds enjoy. Pick a location 

with afternoon shade in the Coachella 

Valley, and don’t plant in saline or alkaline 

soils. Hybrid of parents native to southern 

Appalachia. 

Prunus cerasifera 

‘Krauter Vesuvius’ 

0° 

purple plum 

Open, rounded, tree 10 to 15 feet high, 

with a rounded crown spreading to 10 

feet wide. Admired for its striking, dark 

purple, almost black foliage. Deciduous. 

Pink flowers bloom in spring. May bear 

fruit in summer. Avoid planting in windy 

locations. Best where it will receive afternoon 

shade. Hybrid of parents native to the 


Below left: Prosopis velutina, 

velvet mesquite. 

Below: Prosopis chilensis, 

Chilean mesquite. 

Trees u 63

Below: Quercus 

virginiana, southern 

live oak. 

Bottom left: Punica granatum, 

pomegranate. 

Bottom right: Quercus 

ilex, holly oak. 

Punica granatum 

10° 

pomegranate 

This is a deciduous small tree or shrub 

12 to 20 feet high and to 15 feet wide. 

Well-adapted to the Coachella Valley. 

Pomegranate has much to recommend it: 

bright green leaves, large, ruby flowers, 

healthy fruit, plus golden yellow fall foliage. 

With time, becomes a great hedge and 

security barrier plant. Prune when dormant 

in winter. High-water use in summer if 

fruit is the goal (See page 147). Otherwise, 

supply moderate water. Does well in alkaline 

soils. Accepts some shade. Native to 

southern Asia. 

Many cultivars are available: ‘Chico’, 

dwarf carnation-flowered pomegranate, 

grows to 8 feet high. ‘Legrellei’ grows 6 

feet to 8 feet high, and has double creamy 

flowers with coral-red stripes. ‘Nana’, 

dwarf pomegranate, is more evergreen 

with dense growth to 3 feet high. It’s 

a dependable performer with orange-red, 

single flowers and small, dry, red fruit. 

‘Wonderful’ grows to 10 feet high, has 

orange-red, 4-inch flowers and sweet fruit. 

Quercus species 

Oak 

Oaks are not the trees that spring to mind 

when one thinks of a landscape for the 

desert, but these rough and tough trees 

will accept the heat, drought, winds and 

occasional cold. They take what the desert 

dishes out, and with a deep soak once a 

month in summer, provide the homeowner 

with a large, stately tree. 

Quercus agrifolia 

california coastal 

10° 

live oak 

Large, round-headed, evergreen tree 30 

to 50 feet high. Fire-resistant rough, dark 

brown bark on broadly spreading, picturesque 

branches that may spread wider 

than the tree is tall. Dark green, hollylike 

leaves. Best adapted to Palm Springs 

area near foothills and canyons. Native to 

coastal southern California. 


Quercus ilex 

10° 

holly oak 

Excellent, medium-sized evergreen tree 

from 20 to 30 feet high with equal spread. 

A multitude of small, medium green, finely 

toothed, hollylike leaves provide dense 

shade. Planted in a row, holly oak makes a 

good hedge. Planted singly, it is a refined 

and elegant specimen. Tolerates lawn 

planting. Native to the Mediterranean. 

Quercus suber 

10° 

cork oak 

An evergreen tree with broad, rounded 

crown that produces deep shade. Moderate 

growth from 25 to 40 feet high with a short 

trunk. Leaves are lustrous, dark green 

above, grayish beneath. Pale, thick and 

deeply furrowed, corky bark adds close-up 

interest. In certain regions of the world, it 

is harvested as cork for commercial use. 


Quercus virginiana 

0° 

southern live oak 

A quality evergreen tree that grows 50 to 

60 feet high with an equal spread. Best performance 

in well-drained soil. Thrives on 

deep irrigation. ‘Heritage’ is an improved 

selection, proven to be adapted to desert 

heat and wind. Grows rapidly, producing 

impressive branches and trunk. Native to 

southeastern U.S. 

Q. fusiformis, escarpment live oak, is 

also recommended. It is very similar to 

southern live oak. 

Rhapis excelsa 

20° 

slender lady palm 

An exceptionally decorative and rare palm, 

lady palm forms dense clumps of many 

individual stems 6 to 8 feet high. Fronds 

are palmate. Best growth in bright, indirect 

light and nutrient-rich soil; it responds to 

applications of fertilizer. Good specimen 

plant in filtered shade near a pool, or in 

tubs or planters indoors. Native to Japan. 

Rhus lancea 

10° 

african sumac 

A dense, wide-spreading, evergreen tree 

with a slight, weeping or drooping growth 

Bottom left: Quercus 

suber, cork oak. 

Bottom right: Rhus lancea, 

African sumac. 

Trees u 65

Above: Sophora 

secundiflora, Texas 

mountain laurel. 

Above right: Trachycarpus 

fortunii, windmill palm. 


habit. Mature trees 20 to 25 feet high may 

spread to 40 feet or more. A workable tree 

for a small garden but it produces a great 

deal of litter throughout the year. Reddish 

stems and shiny, medium green leaves are 

borne in three slender leaflets. Female 

plants produce tan to reddish berries in 

clusters. Avoid heavy pruning at a single 

session. Some people are allergic to all 

parts of the tree. Native to South Africa. 

Schinus molle 

20° 

california pepper 

A fast-growing, medium-sized evergreen 

tree from 30 to 40 feet high. It has a 

round-headed form with graceful, weeping 

branches and feathery, bright green foliage. 

Small, rose-colored berries hang in 

clusters on branches in fall. Low to moderate 

water use, depending on soil type. 

Branches of older trees are prone to breakage 

in strong winds. Originally native to 

Peruvian Andes, trees were brought to 

the early California missions by Spanish 

monks. 

10° 

Sophora secundiflora 

texas mountain laurel 

Small tree or large shrub from 10 to 15 

feet high and as wide, with glossy green, 

evergreen leaves. Clusters of purple, wisteria-like 

flowers bloom in spring and 

perfume the air with a delightful fragrance. 

Attractive, grayish white seed pods contain 

red seeds that are poisonous. Plants 

have overall great tolerance for desert 

climates. Accepts almost any well-drained 

soil. Restrained, compact growth requires 

minimal pruning. Native to Texas. 

Trachycarpus fortunii 

10° 

windmill palm 

A superior, middle-sized palm with fanshaped 

leaves that radiate like a windmill 

from its compact crown. The trunk is 

naturally shaggy with hairy black fibers 

and old leaf bases. Do not remove these 

as it harms the plant. Grows slowly 15 to 

25 feet high, spreading 6 to 8 feet wide. 

Trunks can be 1 foot in diameter. This 

palm does best with afternoon shade, and 

does not tolerate reflected sun such as near 

a pool. Give regular applications of water 

and fertilizer during the warm months. 

Due to its smaller stature, can be planted 

in atriums, entryways and even in large 

containers. Native to China.

Ulmus parvifolia 

evergreen elm, 

20° 

little leaf elm 

This broad, umbrella-shaped tree quickly 

reaches to 35 feet high and as wide. Plant 

is semi-evergreen, dropping its small, 

dark green leaves and regrowing them 

over several months from winter to early 

spring. Bark is attractive mottled tan and 

brown. Water deeply to avoid shallow 

roots, which can become unsightly (even 

hazardous) on the soil surface. Native to 

China. 

Vitex agnus-castus 

10° 

chaste tree 

Long-lived and slow growing, this small 

deciduous tree can take the heat. Narrow 

leaves produce a spicy fragrance when 

crunched underfoot after they drop from 

branches in fall. Grow as a large shrub or 

small tree 15 to 25 feet high and as wide. 

Many cultivars are available. Depending 

on the selection, lavender, blue or white 

spikes of flowers bloom in summer. They 

attract butterflies. Cold hardiness also 

depends on cultivar seed source. Native to 

southern Europe. 

Washingtonia filifera 

15° 

california fan palm 

This is the only palm native to California, 

growing naturally in Palm Canyon and 

other canyons in the Coachella Valley. 

Trunks can become massive, often reaching 

3-1/2 feet in diameter. Large fronds are 

borne on long leaf stems; the leaves are 

fringed with coarse white hairs. Accepts the 

desert heat but younger plants prefer some 

shade. Slower growing than Washingtonia 

robusta (see below), reaching a mature 

height of 35 to 40 feet. Provide occasional 

deep watering. 

Washingtonia robusta 

20° 

mexican fan palm 

(Washingtonia gracilis). This native of Baja 

California is similar to California fan 

palm, but its trunk is more slender, usually 

15 to 18 inches in diameter. It has a faster 

growth rate compared to W. filifera. Fronds 

are smaller with shorter stems and fewer 

filaments. Mexican fan palm becomes a 

skyline tree, reaching 50 to 75 feet high. 

Group only with own species in clumps 

of plants that are of staggered heights. 

Provide occasional deep watering. 

Above left: Vitex agnuscastus, 

chaste tree. 

Above center: Washingtonia 

filifera, California fan palm. 

Above: Washingtonia 

robusta, Mexican fan palm. 

Trees u 67

S H R U B S 


Shrubs are similar to trees in that 

they serve many landscape functions. 

Use them as specimens, accent plants, 

group plantings, borders, hedges, 

screens, barriers, backdrops and 

foundation plantings. Shrubs provide 

shade, fruit, habitat and food for wildlife. 

People enjoy their fragrance and 

culinary use, as well as their 

seasonal color and interest. 

Shrubs are smaller and lower growing 

compared to trees, so we see them 

in greater detail. Shrubs help bring the 

landscape scale down to human scale. 

Although many shrubs have beautiful 

flowers, some last for just a short 

while. Select shrubs for their shape, 

form, texture, foliage, branching habits 

and the substance and utility they add 

to your landscape. 


Abutilon palmerii 

desert abutilon, 

25° 

indian mallow 

Grows up to 5 feet high and as wide with 

an upright and open form. Velvety heartshaped 

leaves and flowers like hollyhocks 

lend an almost tropical quality. Plants 

tolerate hot, dry conditions but soak the 

root zone every week or so in summer to 

maintain appearance. Appreciates afternoon 

shade. Much less water is needed 

in the cool seasons of the year. Native to 

Sonoran Desert. 

Alyogyne huegelii 

25° 

blue hibiscus 

An attractive member of the mallow family, 

this plant grows to 5 feet high and 

spreads to 4 feet wide. It can also be 

pruned to become a small tree. Blue-purple 

flowers bloom from spring into fall, the 

individual blooms lasting two to three 

days. Does best in afternoon shade or on 

the north side of a building. Pinching back 

branches can increase flowering, but avoid 

shearing or topiary pruning. If damaged by 

frost, wait until spring to prune damaged 

branches. Accepts container culture, and 

must have well drained soils. Keep in mind 

that the dark green leaves are covered with 

tiny hairs that can irritate sensitive skin. 

‘Santa Cruz’ produces an attractive, deep 

blue flower. Native to coastal southwestern 

Australia. 

Ambrosia deltoidea 

20° 

triangle leaf bursage 

This small evergreen shrub is primarily 

used for revegetation and erosion control. 

It reaches 1 to 2 feet high and as wide, with 

a naturally rounded form, featuring silvery 

gray foliage. Moderately rapid growth. 

Once established it can survive with only 

an occasional watering, but better appearance 

with summer waterings. Flowers are 

small and insignificant. A relative of ragweed, 

some people are allergic to its pollen. 

Native to southern Arizona. 

Anisacanthus species 

0° 

desert honeysuckle 

Two Anisacanthus species share the 

common name of desert honeysuckle. 

Hummingbirds and butterflies flock to the 

Below left: Abutilon 

palmerii, desert abutilon, 

indian mallow. 

Below center: 

Anisacanthus species, 

desert honeysuckle. 

Below right: Ambrosia 

deltoidea, triangle leaf 

bursage. 

Below: Alyogyne 

huegelii, blue hibiscus. 

Shrubs u 69

Above left: Caesalpinia mexicana, 

Mexican bird 

of paradise. 

Above right: Atriplex canescens, 

fourwing 

saltbush. 

Above: Buddleia 

marrubifolia, woolly 

butterfly bush. 

tubular, nectar-filled flowers of both species. 

Plants are semideciduous and excellent 

for wildlife habitats. Plants grow 3 

to 5 feet high and as wide with a natural, 

open form. Cut plants back to 12 inches in 

late winter for renewed growth in spring. 

Well-drained soil is necessary. 

Anisacanthus quadrifidus var. brevifolius 

‘Mexican Fire’ and A. quadrifidus var. 

wrightii ‘Mexican Flame’ are grown 

for their abundant orange flower clusters. 

Most flowering occurs midsummer until 

frost. Both are hardy to 10°F. Parents are 

native to Chihuahuan Desert. 

A. thurberi produces orange or yellow 

tubular flowers that bloom in spring and 

summer. Hardy to 20°F. Native to Arizona 

and New Mexico. 

Atriplex canescens 

0° 

fourwing saltbush 

This plant is a “must” for the wildlife garden. 

Birds, especially native quail, appreciate 

the dense cover and edible seeds it 

provides. Silvery blue-green, evergreen 

leaves are actually covered with microscopic 

plates of white wax, which helps 

the plant conserve water. Plants reach 4 to 

8 feet high and as wide. Clusters of inconspicuous 

yellow flowers bloom in summer, 

and are followed by golden fruit pods with 

four wings on them. Well adapted to salty 

conditions, and effective for erosion control. 

Native to western North America. 

Buddleia marrubifolia 

-0° 

woolly butterfly bush 

Useful as a backdrop to perennial beds, 

the small, ball-shaped, yellow and orange 

flowers attract butterflies in summer. 

Grows to 5 feet high and as wide. The 

toothed, silvery gray, woolly leaves blend 

and contrast well with silver or green 

leaved plants such as brittlebush, lavender, 

red salvia and bougainvillea. Plant in soil 

with good drainage. Prune in late winter 

to control or renew plants. Native to the 

Chihuahuan Desert in Mexico. 

Buxus microphylla 

var. japonica 

0° 

japanese boxwood 

Boxwood grows to 6 feet high and as wide 

with a rounded form. It accepts shearing 

and is a favorite hedge or topiary plant. 

Leaves are small, round-tipped, bright 

green and have a musky odor. Accepts sun 

to partial shade. Native to Japan. 

‘Nana’ is evergreen and compact 2 to 4 

feet high. 


Caesalpinia species 

Bird of Paradise 

These are tropical plants with bright green, 

feathery foliage. Leaves and branches can 

suffer frost damage below 30°F. The roots 

can tolerate temperatures into at least the 

upper teens. If healthy before a freeze, 

plants recover rapidly in spring, growing 

back bushier than ever. Wait until danger 

of frost has past in spring before pruning 

damaged branches. 

Caesalpinia gilliesii 

yellow bird 

5° 

of paradise 

Grows 6 feet high, with an equal spread. 

Foliage is sparse and feathery, with a 

growth habit that can become top heavy. 

Spikes of large, brilliant yellow flowers 

with showy red stamens are the payoff for 

growing this plant. Best used as a background 

behind smaller, fuller plants to hide 

the bare lower stems. Provides color late 

spring to fall. Accepts shade. Tolerant of 

almost any soil. Native to Argentina. 

Caesalpinia mexicana 

mexican bird 

18° 

of paradise 

This yellow-flowering species has recently 

become available. It grows rapidly to 10 

feet high and as wide. The bloom season 

comes on slightly later than red bird of 

paradise, and lasts later in the year. Foliage 

freezes at 28°F to 30°F, but healthy plants 

recover from the roots. Accepts some 

shade. Native to Mexico. 

Caesalpinia 

pulcherrima 

18° 

red bird of paradise 

Brilliant red and yellow flowers bloom 

from early summer to fall. A splendid 

workhorse plant for the Coachella Valley. 

Typically grows 5 to 8 feet high, with finetextured, 

almost luxuriant leaves, but can 

get much larger in mild climates. Due to 

its stature and deciduous nature, use as a 

background plant. Accepts almost any soil 

but full sun is required. Cut stems back 

to about 18 inches after winter dormancy, 

prior to new spring growth. Native to the 

West Indies. 

Calliandra californica 

20° 

baja fairy duster 

The refined, dark green foliage of Baja 

fairy duster is attractive when combined 

with other natives or subtropical plants. It 

grows to 6 feet high and 4 to 5 feet wide 

with an open form. Red puffball flowers 

with long stamens bloom spring into fall; 

attracting hummingbirds. Prune lightly in 

Below left: Caesalpinia 

pulcherrima, red bird of 

paradise. 

Below right: Calliandra 

californica, Baja fairy duster. 

Below: Caesalpinia gilliesii, 

yellow bird of paradise. 

Shrubs u 71

Above left: Calliandra eriophylla, 

fairy duster. 

Above right: Callistemon 

viminalis ÔLittle JohnÕ, 

little John bottlebrush. 

Above: Calliandra haematocephala, 

pink powder 

puff. 

late spring to encourage a fuller plant from 

the ground up. If growth becomes excessive, 

decrease water. Plant in soil with 

good drainage. Native to Baja California. 

Calliandra eriophylla 

10° 

fairy duster 

Produces pinkish red flower clusters in 

the spring, complemented nicely by its 

refined foliage. Mature height and spread 

is 2 to 3 feet. Similar to Calliandra californica, 

but its growth habit is typically more 

controlled. Graceful and airy, it is ideal 

in a natural garden design. Pruning back 

branches slightly may help create more 

fullness. Allow plants to grow naturally 

and they will produce more flowers. A low 

water-use plant that prefers full sun and 

well drained soil. Native to Sonoran and 

Chihuahuan Deserts. 

Calliandra 

haematocephala 

30° 

pink powder puff 

A desirable, hospitable evergreen for an 

unusual accent planting or trained along 

a wall. Accepts some shade. Grows in 

a sprawling form to 10 feet high and as 

wide. In winter, a profusion of bright, 

red-pink stamens shaped like huge powder 

puffs contrast with rich green, compound 

leaves. Attracts hummingbirds. Plant in 

well-drained soil. Native to Bolivia. 

Callistemon viminalis 

‘Little John’ 

little john 

20° 

bottlebrush 

The species Callistemon viminalis, 

described on page 50, is a commonly 

grown tree. ‘Little John’ is an attractive 

shrub to 3 feet high and as wide. The narrow, 

light green leaves grow up to 6 inches 

long. Profuse numbers of red bottlebrush 

flowers bloom fall into spring. They attract 

butterflies and hummingbirds. Acidify the 

soil on a quarterly schedule to prevent 

chlorosis and to encourage more flowers. 

A hybrid of Australian parents. 

Carissa grandiflora 

26° 

natal plum 

(C. macrocarpa). This commonly grown 

shrub reaches up to 7 feet high and as wide. 

Leaves are an intense deep green, densely 

arranged on unique, tight, short branches. 


Makes a suitable hedge but spines can be a 

hazard. Protect from frost by locating in a 

warm microclimate such as the south side 

of a building under a wide overhang. It 

accepts some shade. Fragrant white flowers 

are followed by red or purple fruit—as 

long as plants are not pruned excessively. 

Native to South Africa. 

‘Boxwood Beauty’ has a compact, shrubby 

form, growing to 2 feet high. ‘Fancy’ 

has outstanding fruiting qualities and boldly 

branching, upright growth to 6 feet 

high. ‘Green Carpet’ has dense growth to 

1-1/2 feet high. Its spreading habit makes 

it exceptionally good as a ground cover. 

Foliage is lush and resembles a carpet of 

green. ‘Tuttlei’ has a more upright form to 

2 to 3 feet high. It has a spreading, tightbranching 

growth habit enhanced by its 

rich green foliage. 

Celtis pallida 

18° 

desert hackberry 

From a distance, the overall impact of this 

shrub is a dense, medium green, rounded 

form to 8 feet high and 10 feet wide. 

Up close, the spines reveal themselves. 

Fragrant yellow flowers bloom in spring, 

followed by orange berries in fall. The 

dense growth and spines, combined with 

highly edible berries, make this a favorite 

nesting place for many desert birds. In 

the landscape, desert hackberry makes a 

wonderful informal hedge, screen or ideal 

backdrop for showier plants. It can also 

be used for erosion control. Extra water in 

spring and summer promotes more flowers 

and fall fruit. Native to sandy soil locations 

from west Texas into Arizona. 

Cleome isomeris 

25° 

bladderbush 

(Isomeris arborea). This 4- to 6-foot shrub 

has light green foliage and bright yellow, 

snapdragonlike flowers borne in clusters 

at the tips of branches. Flowers are a 

great source of nectar for bees and hummingbirds. 

After flowers complete bloom, 

inflated green capsules develop with seeds 

inside. Plants blend well with Encelia farinosa, 

Aniscanthus species and Salvia greggii. 

Easy to grow from seed sown directly 

in place. Well-drained soil is important. 

Avoid overwatering during its summer 

dormancy. Native to the western Mojave 

Desert. 

Above left: Celtis pallida, 

desert hackberry. 

Below left: Carissa 

grandiflora ÕTutteliÕ, 

natal plum. 

Above: Cleome isomeris, 

bladderbush. 

Shrubs u 73

Below left: Cordia boissieri, 

Texas olive. 

Below right: Cordia parvifolia, 

little-leaf 

cordia. 

Below: Cuphea llavea, 

bat-faced cuphea. 

Cocculus laurifolius 

26° 

laurel-leaf cocculus 

Glistening leathery leaves to 6 inches long 

on graceful, arching branches make this 

upright, evergreen shrub a desirable addition 

to the landscape. Develops slowly to 

25 feet high. Accepts pruning well. Good 

cut foliage for arrangements. Accepts some 

sun but better with eastern exposure (afternoon 

shade) or in partial shade beneath 

canopy trees. Native to Himalayas. 

Cordia boissieri 

20° 

texas olive 

This superior shrub has blue-green, leathery 

leaves and clusters of white flowers 

to 2-1/2 inches wide. Grows 10 to 

12 feet high and spreads to 10 feet 

wide. Generally a warm-season bloomer, 

however, flowering extends into winter 

in the mild climate of the Coachella 

Valley. Accepts partial shade. Prefers 

well-drained soil. Remove dead interior 

branches and lower branches for a small 

tree form. Native to Mexico and the Rio 

Grande Valley in Texas. 

Cordia parvifolia, little leaf cordia, is 

similar to C. boissieri but smaller in stature 

and texture with smaller leaves and 

white flowers 1 to 1-1/2 inches across. 

Plants grow 4 to 6 feet high with a similar 

spread. Form is more open and airy. They 

can become cold-deciduous below 20°F. 

Cuphea hyssopifolia 

false heather, 

28° 

mexican heather 

A compact shrub to 2 feet high and as 

wide. The tiny, bright green, needlelike 

leaves look similar to true heather. Small, 

starlike flowers in pink, purple or white 

appear for most of the warm season. Often 

grown as a seasonal hanging basket, it 

does better planted in the ground where 

roots appreciate the cooler temperatures. 

Plant in well-drained soil. Native to southern 

Mexico and Guatemala. 

Cuphea llavea 

20° 

bat-faced cuphea 

Small shrub to 2 feet high and 3 feet wide 

with crisp, dark green foliage. Blooms 

spring, summer and fall. Unusual red flowers 

with purple centers remind one of a 

bat’s face. Provide ample water during 

warm months, particularly if plants are 

located in full sun. Best with afternoon 

shade in the Coachella Valley. A longerlived 

alternative to annuals in flowerbeds. 



Cycas revoluta 

15° 

sago palm 

(Cycas ehrenbergia). A dwarf and compact, 

palmlike plant, with many, long, shining, 

dark green leaves. The leaves appear as if 

they’ve been waxed, growing as a crown 

on top of the short trunk. The thick, heavy 

stem in small plants resembles a pineapple. 

Makes a splendid specimen container plant 

or include in a grouping of similarly sized 

palms. Reaches choice height of 6 to 10 

feet high and 6 feet wide, but grows very 

slowly. Locate where plants receive partial 

filtered shade; protect first year with shade 

cloth to keep direct sun off plant. Native 

to Japan. 

Dalea frutescens 

0° 

black dalea 

One of the many valuable Dalea species. 

Compact to 3 feet high and 4 feet 

wide. Expect partial leaf drop in extreme 

cold or during drought. Rose-purple flowers 

put on a show in fall and winter 

when most plants have ceased blooming. 

Lightly prune, maintaining natural form, in 

spring. Plant in well-drained soil. ‘Sierra 

Negra’ has more prolific blooms. Native to 

Chihuahuan Desert. 

Dalea pulchra 

indigo bush, 

5° 

bush dalea 

This shrub has contrasting, intertwining, 

silvery gray leaves with violet-blue flowers 

from late winter into spring. Grows 3 

to 5 feet high and up to 4 feet wide. Adds 

great interest when combined with other 

native desert plants. Best in full sun and 

in well-drained soil. Native to Arizona and 

northern Sonora, Mexico. 

Dodonaea viscosa 

10° 

hop bush 

A ruggedly handsome substitute for oleander, 

or wherever you need a vigorous, 

fast-growing shrub or screen. Reaches 10 

to 12 feet high and almost as wide, with 

bright green, evergreen leaves. Suitable 

as low windbreak or for screening. Space 

4 to 5 feet apart. Will accept some shade, 

and stands up to wind, heat and cold. 

Flowers are inconspicuous but are followed 

by showy, pale yellow seed pods 

that split and blow away—low litter. 

Lightly shape plants (avoid shearing), or 

allow them to develop their natural form. 

Native to Arizona. 

‘Purpurea’, purple hop bush, has bronzy 

purple leaves and is less hardy—to 20°F. 

Below left: Dodonaea 

viscosa, hop bush. 

Below center: Dalea 

pulchra, indigo bush. 

Below right: Dalea 

frutescens, black dalea. 

Below: Cycas revoluta, 

sago palm. 

Shrubs u 75

Below left: Eremophila 

maculata v. brevifolia, 

red eremophila. 

Below right: Ericameria 

laricifolia, turpentine bush. 

Below: Encelia farinosa, 

brittlebush. 

Encelia farinosa 

15° 

brittlebush, incienso 

Brittlebush is an abundant shrub in natural 

desert areas throughout the Sonoran 

and Mojave Deserts. It plays a versatile 

role in home gardens, particularly in 

natural designs with other native plants. 

Evergreen gray to light green leaves are 

soft and velvety to the touch, covering 

the 2- to 3-foot plants. Bright, yellow, 

daisylike flowers are borne on tall 

stems in profuse numbers well above the 

foliage in spring. After flowering has 

passed, cut plant back by one-third and 

water thoroughly for a repeat bloom. 

Little is required to grow them successfully: 

well-drained soil, low water and 

full sun. Does not need fertilizer. May 

die back to the ground during periods of 

drought, but generally comes back with 

moisture. 

Eremophila maculata 

v. brevifolia 

20° 

red eremophila 

An excellent choice for bright winter 

color. The dark gray leaves are virtually 

hidden by the brilliant red flowers January 

into March. The rest of the year, the symmetrical, 

4- by 4-foot, dark gray shrub 

blends with other silvery foliaged plants. 

Grows moderately fast and prefers well 

drained soils. Shear plants in April after 

blooming, but then not again if you want 

ideal bloom display. 

Also try Eremophila ‘Summertime Blue’ 

for its lilac-blue flowers during summer. 

It also has an ability to grow in clay soils. 

Both are native to Australia. 

Ericameria laricifolia 

0° 

turpentine bush 

In the fall, the dense, fine-textured, dark 

green leaves of turpentine bush become 


lanketed with bright yellow, daisylike 

flowers. The refined growth can develop 

into a shrub 2 to 3 feet high and as 

wide. Best used in masses or groups in 

out-of-the-way places, on slopes or in 

combination with other low-water use 

plants. Give the foliage a rub between 

your hands and you will smell the turpentine 

scent. Native to west Texas, New 

Mexico, Arizona and Mexico. 

Eriogonum fasciculatum 

v. poliofolium 

15° 

flattop buckwheat 

A low, rounded, evergreen shrub to 1 

1/2 feet high, spreading to 2 feet wide. 

Leaves are extremely fine textured—dark 

gray-green above, white and woolly 

below. This delicate foliage is virtually 

hidden in spring by 2-inch clusters of tiny 

white to pale pink flowers. Flowering 

begins in March and can continue into 

November if plants receive regular water. 

Seeds are loved by the lesser goldfinch 

and other birds. Pruning generally isn’t 

necessary. Does best in well drained 

soils—it is native to dry rocky slopes of 

southeastern California, and into Arizona 

and Nevada. 

Euonymus japonicus 

10° 

euonymus 

Fast-growing, upright shrub from 8 to 12 

feet high with large, shiny, deep green 

leaves. Needs regular moisture to maintain 

healthy, overall lush and vigorous appearance. 

Compact branching habit accepts 

shearing well. Native to Japan. 

‘Aureo-variegata’, gold spot euonymus, 

grows to 10 feet high and 6 feet wide. 

It has leaves blotched with yellow and 

well-defined, dark green margins. Best in 

partial shade. ‘Microphyllus Improved’, 

boxleaf euonymus, is a dwarf selection 

1 to 2 feet high. It is erect but compact 

with small, closely arranged, dark green 

leaves. Formal appearance that does not 

require pruning. Locate in full sun or partial 

shade. 

Fallugia paradoxa 

apache plume 

Apache plume grows 3 to 6 feet high and 

as wide. Admired for its graceful, airy, 

upright, angular branches covered with 

dark green leaves, as well as its flowers 

and seed heads. Flowers are 1 inch across 

and look similar to single rose blossoms. 

Seed heads that are silky pink plumes 

adorn plants from May to December. Adds 

Below left: Eriogonum 

fasciculatum 

v. poliofolium, flattop 

buckwheat. 

Below: Fallugia 

paradoxa, Apache 

plume. 

Shrubs u 77

Above: Fraxinus greggii, 

little leaf ash. 

Above right: Guaiacum 

coulteri, guayacan. 

long-term interest throughout the landscape. 

Deciduous in cold winters. Locate 

in full sun to partial shade. Well-drained 

soil essential. Native range extends from 

Utah to Texas south to Mexico. 

Feijoa sellowiana 

15° 

pineapple guava 

This is a fast growing, evergreen shrub, 

reaching 10 to 18 feet high. Gray-green 

leaves are attractive, as are the waxy white 

flowers with red stamens. Flower petals are 

edible and can be used in salads. Flowers 

bloom May through June and are followed 

by tasty fruit. Fruit quality and quantity is 

better in cooler climates, and when fruitproducing 

cultivars are grown. Accepts 

some shade. Native to South America. 

Fraxinus greggii 

10° 

little leaf ash 

Grows at a moderate rate to 10 feet high 

and up to 8 feet wide. Leaves are light 

green to gray-green; bark is gray. Can 

be trained to become a small tree with 

rounded head. Tolerates heat, alkaline 

soils and lawn situations. Native to canyon 

bottoms and steam sides, so does best 

with regular water. Inconspicuous spring 

flowers are pollinated by the wind. Ash 

are in the same family as olives, and their 

pollen is troublesome for some. Native 

from Arizona to Texas. 

Gardenia jasminoides 

20° 

gardenia 

(Gardenia angusta). Evergreen shrub 3 to 4 

feet high and as wide, grown for its famous, 

large, creamy white and extremely fragrant 

flowers. The flowers, framed by glossy 

green leaves, bloom April to October. 

Apply acidifying fertilizer monthly from 

March to September for best results. Good 

soil drainage is required. Prefers partial 

shade. Suited to containers. Native to 

China, Taiwan and Japan. 

‘Mystery’ is bushy and compact to 5 feet 

high. ‘Veitchi’, everblooming gardenia, is 

free-flowering, compact and upright to 3 

feet high. 

Grewia occidentalis 

26° 

lavender star flower 

Fast-growing, evergreen shrub to 6 feet 

high, spreading 4 to 5 feet wide. Dark 

green, 3-inch-long leaves serve as an 

excellent backdrop to the lavender, starshaped 

flowers that bloom late spring into 

fall. Tolerates wind. Do any major pruning 

in fall after bloom ceases. Accepts training 

as an espalier. Native to southern Africa. 

Guaiacum coulteri 

25° 

guayacan 

Intense, blue-purple flowers offer a startling 

splash of color against the rich, dark 

green foliage. Flowers appear in spring 


and can last into midsummer if plants are 

given a little extra water. The leaves are 

composed of 6 to 10 tiny leaflets and are 

borne on twisted, crooked branches covered 

with smooth, pale gray bark. Prefers 

well drained soil. Accepts some shade. 

Susceptible to hard frosts, growing at a 

moderate rate to 6 feet high and as wide. 

In frost-free areas it can reach up to 10 feet 

high. Native to tropical deciduous thorn 

scrub of western Mexico. 

Hamelia patens 

scarlet bush, 

25° 

fire bush 

This fast growing shrub has fuzzy, 6-inch, 

gray-green leaves. In areas with frost, 

plants reach 5 feet high and as wide, but 

often remain smaller. In frost-free areas in 

the tropics they can reach an incredible 25 

feet. Clusters of orange-red, 3/4-inch tubular 

flowers bloom through summer with 

regular moisture. Flowers are followed by 

small dark fruit that are relished by birds. 

Needs good soil drainage, but tolerant of 

saline soils. Accepts some shade, but protect 

from wind and frost. Prune in fall after 

flowering has ceased. Native to southern 

Florida and Central America. 

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 

40° 

hibiscus 

These subtropical flowering shrubs grow 

6 to 10 feet high, and bloom continuously 

during the warm season. Foliage varies 

but most have attractive, glossy, deep 

green leaves. Flowers come in a wide 

range of colors; many are multicolored 

with contrasting throats. Well-drained soils 

are a must. Locate plants where they’ll 

receive afternoon shade and wind protection. 

Prune in early spring, and pinch spent 

flowers through the flowering season to 

encourage more blooms. Hardy to 28°F 

to 40°F, depending on variety. Native to 

tropical areas around the world. 

Some common cultivars include: 

‘Agnes Gault’—large, single, bright, 

rose-pink flowers that are heavily veined 

with a pink and cranberry throat. Fastgrowing, 

vigorous plant. Prune to prevent 

legginess. ‘Butterfly’—vibrant, bright yellow, 

single flowers are produced in profusion 

on slow-growing, upright plants. 

‘Crown of Bohemia’—very full double 

flowers are magnificent golden yellow with 

deep orange-red throats, on upright plants 

to 5 feet high. ‘High Voltage’—large white 

flowers with contrasting magenta throats. 

‘Ross Estey’—extremely large single 

flowers with orange edges shading to 

glowing rose center. The ruffled and tufted 

flowers last about three days on plants. 

Vigorous growth to 8 feet high. ‘San Diego 

Red’—vivid, bright red single flowers in 

profuse numbers most of the year. ‘White 

Above left: Feijoa 

sellowiana, pineapple 

guava. 

Above center: Hamelia 

patens, scarlet bush. 

Above right: Hibiscus 

‘High Voltage’. 

Above: Hibiscus ‘Agnes 

Gault’. 

Shrubs u 79

Below right: Justicia 

spicigera, Mexican 

honeysuckle. 

Below center: Juniperus 

chinensis ÔTorulosaÕ, 

Hollywood juniper. 

Below: Hyptis emoryi, 

desert lavender. 

Wings’—heavy crop of attractive single 

flowers. White petals have a ruby eye in 

the center accented with a faint red vein 

in each petal. A vigorous plant, prune to 

control legginess. 

Hyptis emoryi 

15° 

desert lavender 

The wonderful lavender fragrance of all 

parts of this shrub make it an excellent 

addition to any garden. The powder gray 

foliage contrasts well with clusters of 

small violet-purple flowers that grace the 

bushes from spring through fall. They 

cling, dried on the stems, through the 

winter. Becomes an open, upright, vaseshaped, 

evergreen shrub, reaching 5 to 8 

feet high, eventually spreading as wide. 

Plants are winter dormant, and require no 

water during this season. Plant in the background 

for an excellent backdrop to perennials, 

wildflowers or other color plants. 

Does best in well drained soil. Native to 


Ilex vomitoria 

‘Stokes Dwarf’ 

10° 

dwarf yaupon 

Tiny, rich, dark green leaves are closely 

held on a dwarf plant from 2 to 3 feet 

high. Tolerates alkaline soils better than 

other hollies. Use as a border or low hedge. 

Accepts some shade. Native to southeastern 

United States. 

Juniperus chinensis 

0° 

juniper 

Junipers are available in many different 

sizes, forms, growth habits and foliage 

colors. Research carefully to get the plants 

you want to fit your use and site. Some 

will accept partial shade. 

‘Armstrongii’, Armstrong juniper, is a 

showy, compact, semi-erect conifer from 

4 to 5 feet high. Symmetrical with a closeknit 

growth habit. Attractive, medium 

green, lacy-textured foliage. 

‘Hetzii Columnaris’, a columnar juniper, 

is an attractive, bright green shrub, growing 

as a dense, 12- to 15-foot column. 

Sharp-pointed, needlelike leaves accept 

trimming well. 

‘Pfitzeriana’, Pfitzer juniper, has handsome, 

gray-green foliage. Sharp-needled 

leaves cover arching branches as plant 

develops into a showy, spreading shrub 6 

to 10 feet high and as wide. Its form creates 

a natural security barrier that is difficult 

to penetrate. 

‘San Jose’ is one of the best prostrate 


(low-growing) junipers. Dark sage green 

foliage with a compact growth habit to 

2 feet high, spreading to 6 feet wide. it 

becomes a husky presence with many 

branches. Locate in partial shade. Excellent 

specimen for tub or bonsai. 

‘Torulosa’, also known as ‘Kaizuka’, 

Hollywood juniper, has rich green foliage. 

Form is upright from 10 to 15 feet 

high. Erect branches take on a picturesque, 

wind-blown appearance. Best in partial 

shade. Handsome shrub for use along 

fences or as an accent. 

Justicia brandegeana 

8° 

shrimp plant 

(Beloperone guttata). Masses of pinkish 

copper, shrimp-shaped bracts, modified 

leaves, surround small white flowers set 

off by evergreen, apple green leaves. Plants 

grow 2 to 3 feet high and as wide, blooming 

during the warm season. Best in partial 

shade. Good for a tropical effect. Can be 

planted in containers. Cut cold-damaged 

plants back in early spring to rejuvenate 

them. Native to Mexico, it has escaped and 

naturalized in southern Florida. 

Justicia californica 

25° 

chuparosa 

Showy, red, tubular flowers are most profuse 

in the spring, with sporadic flowers 

in summer and fall. Sprawling, informal 

growth to 4 feet high, spreading to 6 feet 

wide, with small, pale green leaves. Ideal 

for a hummingbird garden or a natural 

garden design. Cut plants back severely 

in early spring every two or three years 

to reinvigorate growth. A yellow-flowering 

form is also available. Native to the 


Justicia spicigera 

15° 

mexican honeysuckle 

Vivid, orange, tubular flowers combine 

with soft, fuzzy, pale green leaves, creating 

a luxuriant effect. Hummingbirds flock 

to plants when in bloom in mid- to late 

spring, and into fall with regular water. 

Growth is rounded to upright to 4 feet 

high. Usually no insect or disease problems. 

Tolerates some sun, but grows best 

in filtered shade, such as beneath highcanopied 

trees. Native to southern Mexico 

and into Central America. 

Lantana camara 

25° 

lantana 

Evergreen shrub or ground cover. Produces 

masses of color during the warm season, 

blending with native or introduced dryclimate 

plants. Rich green leaves cover the 

thickly branched plants. Cut plants back 

severely in early spring every two or three 

years to renew growth. Native to tropical 

America. 

Above left: Justicia 

brandegeana, shrimp plant. 

Above: Justicia californica, 

chuparosa. 

Shrubs u 81

Below right: Lantana 

camara, lantana. 

Below center: Lantana 

camara ÔNew GoldÕ. 

Below left and below: 

Larrea tridentata, 

creosote bush. 

Many outstanding selections are available: 

‘Christine’, striking cerise-pink 

flowers; ‘Cream Carpet’, cream-colored 

flowers; ‘Dwarf White’, velvety white 

flowers; ‘Dwarf Yellow’, bright yellow 

flowers; ‘New Gold’, golden yellow flowers; 

Radiation’, rich, orange-red flowers; 

‘Spreading Sunset’ with vivid, orange-red 

flowers; ‘Spreading Sunshine’, abundant, 

bright yellow flowers create a blanket of 

color on low, spreading compact plants; 

‘Tangerine’, produces blooms that have a 

true, solid tangerine color. 

Larrea tridentata 

0° 

creosote bush 

(L. divaricata). This characteristic shrub 

of the desert can be seen in abundance 

throughout low- and high-elevation regions 

of the desert Southwest. The fresh, clean 

scent this plant produces after a rain is 

unique, and treasured by desert dwellers. 

It is one of the most versatile shrubs for a 

natural garden design, accepting the toughest 

conditions of intense heat, sun, wind, 

cold and drought. The olive green, glossy, 

evergreen foliage can be most useful as a 

hedge or screen or individual specimen. 

Creosote is truly maintenance-free. Bees 

are attracted to small yellow flowers that 

cover the 5- to 12-foot plants in spring. 

To help plants develop deep tap roots, 

provide new plantings with deep irrigation, 

but allow the soil to dry between 

applications. If you have inherited creosote 

bush on your property, an occasional deep 

irrigation will cause plants to produce 

more luxuriant growth. Light pruning may 

be necessary if plants become scraggly. 

Leucophyllum species 

Texas Ranger 

This genus of flowering shrubs have 

become star performers in Southwest landscapes. 

More than a dozen species and 

selections are available and adapted to a 

large region, from Texas to California. 

Plants come in a range of sizes and have 

evergreen, silvery gray to green foliage 

and dense, well-rounded growth. Low 

water use, acceptance of full sun and long 

flowering seasons are more than enough 

attributes to use them in abundance in 

most any garden situation. Each species 

has a unique value that makes it worthy of 

consideration. Native to the Chihuahuan 

Desert, most selections are generally cold 

hardy to 10°F and have few problems 

caused by insects or diseases. Good soil 

drainage is important; avoid overwatering. 


Allowed to grow naturally, plants take 

on an informal appearance. Controlling 

growth by trimming creates a more dense, 

hedgelike appearance, but usually results 

in fewer flowers and higher water use. 

Avoid pruning in globes or squares. Prune 

lightly in fall after the flowering season has 

finished to maintain the plant’s form and 

for a more natural but controlled effect. 

Leucophyllum 

candidum 

15° 

violet silverleaf 

Plants found in Texas were brought to the 

nursery trade due to the gorgeous silvery 

foliage and smaller stature (3 feet high and 

wide) compared to other Leucophyllum 

species. Flowers are deep violet, striking 

in contrast against the silver leaves. Most 

prolific bloom comes in late summer. 

‘Silver Cloud’ has striking, dark violet 

flowers, excellent in contrast to its silvery, 

almost white foliage. It is larger than 

‘Thunder Cloud’ but produces fewer flowers. 

‘Thunder Cloud’ grows to 2 feet high 

with indigo flowers. 

Leucophyllum 

frutescens 

10° 

texas ranger 

This is the species that was the first 

Leucophyllum to be brought into cultivation. 

It grows 6 to 8 feet high and as wide 

with a slightly rangy, open growth habit. 

Becomes an excellent screening hedge, 

and an alternative to oleander. Rose-purple 

flowers bloom most profusely in midsummer 

against a backdrop of blue-gray leaves. 

Native to Texas into Mexico. 

‘Compacta’ develops into a dwarf shrub 

3 to 4 feet high. ‘Green Cloud’ has light 

green foliage; ‘White Cloud’ produces gray 

foliage and white flowers. ‘Rain Cloud’ is 

a cross between L. frutescens and L. minus. 

Foliage is similar to L. frutescens but flowers 

are a brilliant shade of violet-blue. 

Leucophyllum 

laevigatum 

chihuahuan 

15° 

rain sage 

Grows to 4 feet high and as wide or wider 

with light violet flowers that bloom during 

summer, especially with humidity. Small, 

wavy, medium green leaves cover the 

branches, which turn up at the ends. Native 

to canyon bottoms in the Chihuahuan 

Desert. 

Leucophyllum 

langmaniae 

15° 

cinnamon sage 

Grows to 5 feet high and as wide with 

leaves that are similar to Chihuahuan 

Below left: 

Leucophyllum frutescens, 

Texas ranger. 

Below center: 

Leucophyllum candidum 

ÔWhite CloudÕ. 

Below right: 

Leucophyllum frutescens 

ÔGreen CloudÕ. 

Below: Leucophyllum 

candidum ÔSilver 

CloudÕ. 

Shrubs u 83

Above right: 

Leucophyllum laevigatum, 

Chihuahuan rain sage. 

Above: Leucophyllum 

langmaniae ÔRio 

BravoÕ. 

rain sage but plants have a denser form. 

Flowers are violet and appear through the 

summer. ‘Rio Bravo’ has improved flowering 

performance. Native to Chihuahuan 

Desert. 

Leucophyllum 

pruinosum 

10° 

sierra ranger 

A charming plant with silvery white leaves 

and deep purple flowers that are the most 

fragrant of the Texas rangers. Grows to 6 

feet high with an equal spread, making it 

an excellent background plant or screening 

hedge. 

‘Sierra Bouquet’ is an especially striking 

and fragrant plant—its flowers smell 

like grape bubblegum. Native to the 


Leucophyllum 

zygophyllum 

10° 

blue ranger 

Grows slowly to 4 feet high and as wide 

with a naturally rounded form. Leaves are 

a silvery blue-green and are distinctive in 

that they cup upward. Light blue-violet 

flowers are attractive and appear intermittently 

through the warm season. 

‘Blue Ranger’ features flowers that are a 

darker, blue-violet hue. ‘Cimmaron’ , with 

light blue flowers, becomes a compact 

shrub 3 to 4 feet high and as wide. Native 

to southwest U.S. into Mexico. 

Ligustrum japonicum 

japanese privet, 

25° 

waxleaf privet 

(L. texanum). Fast growing, evergreen 

shrub or small tree 8 to 12 feet high and 

as wide. Dark green, lustrous leaves on 

heavily branched, upright habit. Clusters 

of white flowers bloom in spring. Can be 

sheared into topiary forms, also makes a 

wonderful hedge or screen. Avoid full sun 

situations because leaves are subject to 

sunburn. Native to Japan and Korea. 

Maytenus 

phyllanthoides 

15° 

mangle dulce 

This large evergreen shrub forms a dense, 

lush screen with minimal care or effort. 

Grows at a slow to moderate rate to 10 feet 

high with an equal spread. Bright green, 

leathery leaves are rounded and fleshy, and 


are attractive all year long. Inconspicuous 

spring flowers are followed by small red 

fruit that add a dash of color, and are 

enjoyed by birds. Accepts some shade. 

Plants are native to salty soil regions of 

coastal Texas and Baja. 

Murraya paniculata 

27° 

orange jessamine 

Luxuriant, bright, glossy green leaves and 

waxy, pure white flowers bloom April 

to July. They perfume the air with an 

intense, orange blossom fragrance. Makes 

an attractive evergreen hedge or screen 6 

to 12 feet high. May take on a tree form 

ranging to 20 to 25 feet with time, if not 

pruned. Best appearance if given some 

shade but tolerates full sun with ample 

water. Native to southeast Asia. 

Myrtus communis 

10° 

true myrtle 

Grown for its aromatic, dark green, glossy 

leaves, this shrub has white flowers in the 

spring and summer, followed by dark blue 

berries. Ideal hedging plant and natural 

foundation plant to 10 feet high, it also 

accepts shaping well. Accepts some shade. 

Native to the eastern Mediterranean. 

‘Compacta’, dwarf myrtle, has smaller 

leaves and a more compact growth habit to 

3 to 4 feet high—ideal for low hedging or 

foreground planting. 

Nandina domestica 

10° 

heavenly bamboo 

This compact, evergreen shrub grows 5 to 

8 feet high. It is a highly versatile plant 

for small areas. Appearance is bamboolike, 

with many vertical stems that display 

distinctive, lacy green leaves. Foliage may 

turn brilliant shades of red and orange in 

fall, depending on extent of exposure to 

sun and cold. Red berries in winter are 

also an attraction. Great decorative value 

in containers. Best with eastern or northern 

exposure; don’t plant on the sunny west 

side. As plants age, remove old stems to 

renew growth, otherwise little maintenance 

required. Dwarf selections are available. 

Native to India and east Asia. 

Nerium oleander 

20° 

oleander 

Oleander has long been a workhorse plant 

in the Coachella Valley, useful as wind- 

Top left: Myrtus 

communis, true myrtle. 

Left: Maytenus 

phyllanthoides, 

mangle dulce. 

Above: Nandina 

domestica, heavenly 

bamboo. 

Shrubs u 85

Above right: Perovskia 

atriplicifolia, Russian sage. 

Above left: Nerium 

oleander, oleander. 

Above center: Phlomis 

fruticosa, Jerusalem sage. 

Above: Plumbago scandens, 

white desert plumbago. 

breaks and screens. But oleander leaf 

scorch—a bacterial disease—and canker— 

a bacterial infection—are destroying 

mature plantings throughout California 

and the Southwest. Currently, older plants, 

20 to 30 years old, are most affected. There 

is no known cure. At this time it is recommended 

that other plants be grown. 

If you have healthy, existing plantings, 

continue to maintain them as usual. Prune 

during warm weather, dipping clippers into 

a 10 percent bleach solution between cuts. 

Pruning exposes the interior of the plant to 

sunlight, stimulating new flowering wood. 

Do not prune into globes or squares. Avoid 

shearing, which reduces flowering wood. 

Note that all plant parts are poisonous so 

do not burn wood—the resulting smoke 

may cause irritation. 

Perovskia 

atriplicifolia 

russian sage 

This is an underused plant that blends 

well with Rosmarinus, Salvia, Encelia 

and Ericameria species. It grows 3 to 4 

feet high and as wide. Stems with small, 

toothed, gray-green leaves are topped with 

showy spikes of diminutive lavender flowers 

in the summer. Selections that produce 

flowers in different colors are available. 

Well-drained soil and moderate applications 

of water help ensure vigorous, healthy 

growth. Space at least 4 feet apart so they 

have ample room to reach mature height 

and spread. Cutting plants back severely 

in early spring renews growth. Native to 

eastern Iran and northwest India. 

Phlomis fruticosa 

25° 

jerusalem sage 

Evergreen perennial subshrub from 2 to 

3 feet high and as wide. In spring, clear 

yellow flowers develop atop stems with 

whorls of gray, velvety, aromatic leaves. 

This is a great plant on slopes or combine 

with other dry-climate plants. Deadhead 

old flowers for rebloom. Provide good soil 

drainage and moderate but deep watering. 

Accepts full sun but prefers afternoon 

shade. Native to the Mediterranean. 

Photinia X fraseri 

5° 

photinia 

Evergreen shrub or screen to 6 to 10 

feet high. A special attraction is the new 

leaf growth in spring that is a glistening, 

coppery red on bright red stems. Foliage 

eventually turns a medium green. Clusters 

of white blossoms also put on a spring 


show. More mildew resistant than other 

photinias. Native to eastern Asia. 

Pittosporum tobira 

5° 

mock orange, tobira 

This evergreen shrub grows 6 to 10 feet 

high, with glossy green leaves to 4 inches 

long. Fragrant, white flower clusters 

bloom in spring. Gradually becomes a 

vigorous, sturdy, heavily branching foundation 

shrub. Prefers partial shade location 

with filtered sunlight, such as beneath a 

canopy tree. Native to Japan. 

‘Wheeler’s Dwarf’ is much more compact 

to 2 feet high. Dense growth makes 

it a good choice as a foreground shrub. 

‘Variegata’, variegated mock orange, is a 

combination of light green and white variegated 

foliage. It features low, compactbranching 

growth from 4 to 8 feet high. 

Plumbago scandens 

15° 

white desert plumbago 

Grows to 3 feet high and as wide, becoming 

a rambling, vining shrub. Glossy 

green, evergreen leaves turn red to purple 

with cold weather. Produces white, tubular 

flowers from spring into fall, attracting 

butterflies. Better appearance when 

provided with afternoon shade, such as in 

an eastern exposure. Native to southern 

Arizona and Mexico. 

‘Summer Snow’ is an improved selection. 

Prunus caroliniana 

‘Compacta’ 

10° 

dwarf cherry laurel 

Specially selected strain of Carolina laurel 

cherry, grown for its tight, compact growth 

habit. An evergreen, it grows to 4 feet high 

and as wide with glossy, deep green leaves. 

Small, creamy white flowers in March 

are followed by blackish red berries that 

attract birds. Best with afternoon shade 

in the Coachella Valley. Does not accept 

saline or alkaline soils. Hybrid of parents 

native to southern Appalachia. 

Pyracantha 

crenatoserrata 

10° 

pyracantha, firethorn 

(P. fortuneana). A vigorous, thorny, upright 

shrub to 8 to 12 feet high with dark green 

leaves. Outstanding landscape interest 

throughout the year due to its clusters of 

white spring flowers and large, long-lasting, 

red berries in winter. Accepts espalier 

training. Native to China. 

Many selections are available. ‘Graberi’ 

is more erect, with huge clusters of flowers 

and berries. 

Pyracantha X 

‘Santa Cruz Prostrata’ 

10° 

prostrate pyracantha 

Unique prostrate growth habit allows this 

pyracantha to be used for ground cover, 

bank planting or as a low shrub. Grows 

Below left: Photinia X fraseri, 

photinia. 

Below right: Pittosporum 

tobira ÔWheelerÕs 

DwarfÕ. 

Below: Pyracantha species, 

pyracantha. 

Shrubs u 87

Below right: Raphiolepis 

indica, indian hawthorn. 

Below left: Salvia 

clevelandii, chaparral sage. 

Below: Ruellia 

peninsularis, Baja ruellia. 

from 2 to 4 feet high and up to 8 feet wide. 

Evergreen, with attractive, glossy, deep 

green foliage. Covers itself with masses 

of white flowers in spring followed by red 

berries in fall. Prune upright branches to 

maintain low-growing form. 

Raphiolepis indica 

10° 

indian hawthorn 

(Rhaphiolepis indica). Evergreen shrub 3 

to 4 feet high and 5 to 6 feet wide, with 

a dense, rounded form. From January to 

April, the dark green leaves are blanketed 

by magnificent clusters of flowers. Well 

drained soil is required. Accepts partial 

shade. Avoid overhead watering in sunny 

locations. Native to southern China. 

Many cultivars are available: ‘Ballerina’, 

rosy pink; ‘Clara’, white; ‘Jack Evans’, 

bright pink; Spring RApture, rose-red 

flowers;‘Springtime’, deep pink. 

Ruellia brittoniana 

18° 

ruellia 

Although dwarf forms are available, the 

full-size plant is a pleasure to grow, reaching 

3 to 4 feet high and spreading at least 

as wide. Given the room and provided regular 

water, it can spread to fill a planting 

bed. The long, bronzy green leaves make 

a nice backdrop to the purple, trumpetshaped 

flowers. Each bloom lasts a single 

day, but the shrub blooms throughout the 

warm season. For best appearance, plant 

where it will receive afternoon shade. 

Does best in well drained soil, but accepts 

clay soils. Native to Mexico. 

Ruellia peninsularis 

25° 

baja ruellia 

This is an evergreen shrub growing to 

3 feet high, putting out a profusion of 

purple flowers in late spring and summer. 

Combine with yellow-flowering Encelia 

farinosa and red-flowering Salvia greggii 

for striking color combinations. Adapts 

well to heat, wind and reflected sun, which 

makes it a good poolside plant. Plants 

seldom need pruning except to thin old 

growth for renewal. 


Salvia species 

Salvia 

Salvia is a large genus, with over 900 species 

world wide. For best results in the 

Valley, plant species that are adapted to our 

desert climate. 

Hummingbirds love salvias, so desert 

gardeners are wise to include them in their 

gardens to attract these fascinating birds. 

Salvias come in a range of sizes. Some 

grow as low as 1 foot high, others up to 8 

feet. Leaf color varies greatly as well, from 

silvery white, to olive, to lush deep green. 

All grow rapidly, and benefit from pruning 

(cutting back) after flowering has ceased. 

Select species carefully to suit the space 

you have available. Here are just a few 

salvias known to do well in the Valley. 

Salvia clevelandii 

chaparral sage, 

10° 

cleveland sage 

This sage is native to California’s rugged 

coastal chaparral, and is surprisingly well 

adapted to the tougher climates of desert 

areas. Most plants reach 4 feet high and 

5 feet or more wide. Fragrant blue flowers 

develop in whorls on stems in spring. 

Deadhead old flower stems in summer 

after bloom period has passed to renew 

growth. Well-drained soil recommended. 

Accepts some shade. Gray-green foliage 

blends well with many desert natives, 

and produces a pleasant, musky fragrance 

when brushed. Plants sometimes scent the 

air after a vigorous rain. Recently introduced 

cultivars featuring different shades 

of purple flowers are available. 

Salvia greggii 

0° 

autumn sage 

This evergreen subshrub grows 2 to 3 

feet high and as wide. Effective when 

planted in masses, the flower spikes in 

shades of scarlet-red and magenta attract 

hummingbirds. Finches enjoy the seeds. 

Afternoon shade is appreciated in low-elevation 

deserts. Prune old flowering wood 

after blooms cease to create new flush of 

growth. Native to Texas and Mexico. 

Many cultivars are available, including 

‘White’, with elongated white flowers; and 

‘Sierra Linda’ (red flowers), which is heat 

tolerant. 

Below left: Salvia 

greggii, autumn sage 

(white and red selections). 

Below right: Salvia 

greggii, autumn sage. 

Below: Ruellia 

brittoniana, ruellia. 

Shrubs u 89

Below right: Salvia 

leucantha, Mexican 

bush sage. 

Below center: Senna 

artemisioides, 

feathery senna. 

Below: Senna species, 

senna. 

Salvia leucantha 

20° 

mexican bush sage 

This evergreen shrub grows from 2 to 4 

feet high with an often greater spread. 

Casual, graceful mounding growth habit 

is well-suited to a natural garden design. 

Plant in masses for a striking flower displays. 

Long, slender, velvety purple spikes 

bloom late summer well into fall, sometimes 

into winter. Cut back plants after 

flowering in late winter for fresh growth 

in spring. Best if given afternoon shade. 


Senna species 

Senna 

(Cassia). This group of shrubs are star 

performers for the arid West, producing 

yellow fragrant flowers in abundance from 

late winter into the spring months. They are 

low water users once they’re established, 

and thrive in full sun. Depending on species, 

plants grow from 5 to 6 feet high or 

more, with an equal spread. Foliage color 

and type varies with each species. 

All Senna species can be controlled by 

natural thinning and topping. Remove 

seed pods after flowering for a neater 

appearance. Pods have been used medicinally 

for eons, but some species are toxic. 

Plant in well-drained soil. Prune sennas 

after flowering has passed. This helps 

remove seed pods and keeps plants in 

proportion. 

Note: Many species within this genus 

were formerly named Cassia. Nurseries 

may carry these plants labeled as Cassia. 

Senna artemisioides 

22° 

feathery senna 

(Cassia artemisioides). Grows rapidly 

from 4 to 6 feet high and as wide with an 

upright, rounded form. Makes a fine background 

for tall perennials or dwarf shrubs. 

The evergreen, gray-green, feathery leaves 

blend perfectly with the yellow flowers 

that appear late winter and spring. Prune 

in fall or in cool weather following flowering. 



filifolia 

15° 

desert senna 

(Cassia nemophila). This variety has 

greener silvery foliage and is larger than 

Senna artemisioides. Yellow flowers that 

bloom in late winter and spring are followed 

by brown seed pods. Grows 4 to 


8 feet high with an equal spread. Space 8 

to 10 feet apart to allow the plant to grow 

naturally, which will also yield the most 

profuse flowers. Remove seed pods with 

a light natural pruning or knock them off. 

More hardy to cold than S. artemisioides. 



petiolaris 

22° 

silver senna 

(Cassia phyllodinea). Gray-green, sickleshaped 

leaves shimmer in the wind. One 

of the most early flowering sennas, it 

sometimes begins blooming in December, 

and often continuing into April. Evergreen, 

with mature size of 6 feet high with 

equal spread. Growth is more compact so 

heavy shearing or pruning is not usually 

required. Prune when flowering has ceased 

and while weather is still cool. Native to 

Australia. 

Senna wislizenii 

10° 

shrubby senna 

(Cassia wislizenii). Stiff, gray-green, 1- 

inch leaves are winter deciduous. Spring 

growth has tinge of bronze that creates a 

striking effect. Grows 6 feet high and 8 

feet wide. Bright yellow flower clusters 

bloom June to September, rather than winter 

months, as other Senna described here. 

This is a tough plant that tolerates salinity, 

alkalinity, some flooding and even neglect. 

Plant in background where loss of leaves 

in winter is not notable. Early growth 

is slow, but after a season or two plants 

develop more vigor. Native to Sonoran and 

Chihuahuan Deserts. 

Simmondsia chinensis 

15° 

jojoba 

This distinctive shrub is native to the 

Sonoran Desert, growing 4 to 8 feet high 

with an equal spread. Gray-green, leathery, 

evergreen leaves are dense, producing 

mounding growth adapted to informal and 

formal designs. Use as a foundation plant, 

hedge (accepts some shearing) , screen or 

background shrub. Male and female flowers 

are borne on different plants, so both 

must be present for the female to produce 

the seeds, which have many commercial 

uses. Little or no pruning required. Plant 

in well-drained soil. 

Tagetes lemmonii 

5° 

mountain marigold 

This mounding shrub from 3 to 4 feet high 

can be recognized by its golden yellow, 

Below left: Simmondsia 

chinensis, jojoba. 

Below right: Tagetes 

lemmonii, mountain 

marigold. 

Below: Senna wislizenii, 

shrubby senna. 

Shrubs u 91

Above right: Tecoma 

ÔOrange JubileeÕ. 

Above left: Tecoma stans, 

yellow trumpet flower. 

Above: Tecomaria capensis, 

cape honeysuckle. 

daisylike flowers that develop in late fall. 

If not damaged by frost, flowering continues 

into spring. Finely divided, light green 

foliage is strongly aromatic. Cut foliage 

back by half in early summer to develop 

sturdy growth to support flowers. Native 

to southeastern Arizona. 

Tecoma stans 

yellow trumpet 

28° 

flower 

(Stenolobium stans). Large, vigorous plant 

useful as shrub, espalier or background. In 

warm microclimates with time and training, 

it can become a small tree with a potential 

to reach 15 to 20 feet high. Yellow clusters 

of trumpet-shaped flowers adorn the 

plant from June to February. Provide full 

sun and heat, with moderate water. Prune 

to control the vigorous growth. Native to 

Mexico and West Indies. 

Tecoma ‘Orange Jubilee’ is similar in 

size and form but produces an abundance 

of bright orange, tubular flowers. 

Tecomaria capensis 

28° 

cape honeysuckle 

Large, upright, evergreen shrub 6 to 10 

feet high, or a spreading, non-climbing 

vine to 20 feet. Grown for its glossy green 

leaves and brilliant clusters of orange-red, 

trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom in winter 

and spring. This is a tough plant that 

adapts to a range of growing conditions. 

Rapid growth rate requires pruning to 

control during the warm season, which the 

plant accepts without problems. Recovers 

rapidly in spring if damaged by frost. 

Native to South Africa. 

Thevetia peruviana 

28° 

lucky nut 

In warm microclimates, this shrub can be 

pruned to become a small umbrella-shaped 

tree from 15 to 20 feet high. Typically, however, 

it is a large shrub to 8 feet high and 

as wide. Strap-shaped leaves 3 to 6 inches 

long and 1/2 inch wide are a rich yellowish 

green. Foliage is dense and provides an 

excellent backdrop to the mildly fragrant 

flowers. Yellow or peach-colored, trumpet-shaped 

flowers to 3 inches in diameter 

adorn the plant spring into fall, and year- 

-round in mild years. Soak the root zone 

deeply every week or two in summer for 

best performance. Young plants are hardy 


to 25°F. Prune to remove frost-damaged 

stems in early spring. Native to tropical 

America. 

Vauquelinia californica 

arizona rosewood 

Large evergreen shrub to small tree with 

one to several trunks. Grows at a moderate 

rate 10 to 15 feet high, spreading from 5 

to 15 feet. Linear, leathery leaves up to 4 

inches long are dark green above and velvety 

gray beneath. Large clusters of small 

white flowers appear on branch tips in late 

spring. A rugged and enduring plant with 

rich textured foliage and an ornamental 

character. An excellent alternative to oleander. 

Native to Baja California and, what 

was once Alta California, now Arizona. 

Viburnum tinus 

15° 

laurustinus 

A dense, evergreen shrub from 6 to 12 

feet high and half as wide. Luxuriant 

deep green foliage is the background for 

large quantities of striking white flowers 

blushed with pink during fall and winter. 

Tends to develop mildew in heavy shade; 

locate in partial shade and out of afternoon 

sun. Native to the Mediterranean. 

‘Robustum,’ roundleaf laurustinus, is 

more mildew resistant, has coarser leaves 

and whiter flowers. Often used as a narrow 

patio tree. 

Viguiera deltoidea 

20° 

golden eye 

Outstanding small flowering shrub to 3 feet 

high and as wide. The grayish green leaves 

are covered with dense hairs, giving them 

an interesting texture. Conspicuous yellow 

daisy flowers offer bright splashes of 

color from spring into summer. Seeds are 

enjoyed by birds. Native to the Sonoran 

Desert. 

Xylosma congestum 

10° 

xylosma 

(X. senticosum). Versatile, medium-sized 

evergreen shrub 6 to 10 feet high. Also 

can be grown as a multiple-trunked tree, 

espalier, screen or clipped hedge. Arching 

branches are attractive on upright growth 

habit. New foliage has reddish tint, which 

then matures into glossy light green. 

Flowers are insignificant. Easy to control 

and accepts trimming well. Accepts some 

shade. Native to China. 

Above left: Vauquelinia 

californica, Arizona 

rosewood. 

Above: Viguiera deltoidea, 

golden eye. 

Shrubs u 93

G R O U N D C O V E R S 


Ground covers spread over the ground, 

covering the soil surface with a carpet of 

foliage and flowers. They retain moisture 

in the soil, saving water. Planted on slopes 

and banks, they help reduce soil erosion. As 

a landscape element, ground covers can be 

a bold statement on their own, or a unifying 

element with other plant forms. 

Ground covers are available in different 

growth habits. They clump, mound, creep 

or trail. Clumping ground covers form 

upward-reaching clumps. Mounding forms 

create downward-reaching clumps. The 

foliage of creeping forms stiffly hug the 

ground, while trailing forms are relaxed. 

Trailing ground covers are adapted to grow 

in planters where they add interest by draping 

over the edges. 

Grass lawns are also a form of ground 

cover. For more on lawns, see page 142. 


Acacia redolens 

‘Prostrata’ 

15° 

prostrate acacia 

Generally reaches 1-1/2 to 2 feet high 

and can spread 8 to 10 feet wide. Some 

mounding occurs at crown. Remove vertical 

growth shoots as they occur. Yellow 

puffball flowers bloom in spring. Rapid 

coverage on slopes and for erosion control. 


‘Desert Carpet’ is a selection with a more 

prostrate growth habit. 

Baccharis X 

‘Centennial’ 

prostrate desert 

10° 

broom 

A low-growing, wide-spreading hybrid 

between Baccharis sarothroides and B. 

pilularis. Grows well under both dry and 

moist conditions, roots deeply to prevent 

erosion and presents a good-looking, yearround 

appearance. Grows 1 to 2 feet high, 

spreading 3 to 6 feet wide. Plant 2 to 3 

feet apart for ground cover. After plants 

are established, cut them back in winter to 

early spring to control and renew growth. 

Native to southwest U.S. Baccharis X 

‘Starn’ is a more uniform and compact 

selection. 

Calylophus hartwegii 

5° 

calylophus 

A clumping ground cover with masses 

of large yellow flowers to 2 inches wide. 

Blooms in spring, summer and into fall. 

Grows 1 to 1-1/2 feet high and spreads to 

2 feet wide. Leaves are narrow and bright 

green. Attractive when tucked in among 

boulders or massed in clusters. Plant in 

soil that has good drainage. Cut back to 8 

inches high in fall after blooming ceases to 

reshape and renew plant for spring growth. 

Plants are dormant in winter. Native to 

southeastern Arizona. 

Chrysactinia mexicana 

0° 

damianita 

This is a low, clumping, evergreen ground 

cover with a slow growth rate. Damianita 

bears solid yellow, daisylike flowers from 

April to September, and are more prolific 

with weekly watering. Plants grow 1 to 2 

feet high with an equal spread. After a long 

Below left: Chrysactinia 

mexicana, damianita. 

Below right (bottom): 

Calylophus hartwegii, 

calylophus. 

Below center: Baccharis 

X ÔStarnÕ desert broom. 

Below right (top) 

Baccharis X 

ÔCentennialÕ, prostrate 

desert broom. 

Below: Acacia redolens 

ÔProstrataÕ, prostrate 

Ground Covers u 95

Below right: Dalea 

capitata, golden dalea. 

Below: Dalea greggii, 

trailing indigo bush. 

flowering season, lightly prune spent flowers 

to improve appearance. Plant in soil 

with good drainage. Native to west Texas 

into New Mexico. 

Convolvulus cneorum 

silver bush morning 

10° 

glory 

Dwarf, compact, evergreen shrub 2 to 3 

feet high and 3 feet wide, with soft silvery 

foliage. Masses of 1-inch, round, white to 

pink flowers bloom late spring and summer. 

Plants located in full sun have fuller, 

more dense growth; in partial shade form 

is more open. Plant in well-drained soil. 

Native to southern Europe. 

Convolvulus 

mauritanicus 

ground morning 

22° 

glory 

Fast-growing, trailing evergreen perennial 

1 to 1-1/2 feet high, spreading 2 feet 

wide. Small, round, gray-green leaves are 

covered with 1-inch-wide, lavender-blue 

flowers all summer. Plant in full sun only. 

Requires good soil drainage. Trim plants 

back in winter to renew. Native to Africa. 

Dalea capitata 

0° 

golden dalea 

Creeping ground cover with small, fine 

textured bright green leaves. Can grow 

to around 1 foot high, spreading to 3 feet 

wide. Excellent in small planters or in a 

rock garden. Golden blooms cover plants 

in spring and again in fall. It can look 

unappealing when dormant in winter. Cut 

back in late winter to rejuvenate. Native 

to the Chihuahuan Desert. ‘Sierra Gold’ 

tends to be a more prolific bloomer. 

Dalea greggii 

15° 

trailing indigo bush 

This Chihuahuan Desert native is admired 

by gardeners seeking a low-water use 

ground cover. Plants grow from 1 to 1- 

1/2 feet high with foliage that remains a 

handsome gray to gray-green all year long. 

Dainty purple flowers bloom in spring. A 

single plant can spread an incredible 10 

to 15 feet in diameter. Little pruning is 

required unless plants are located in small 

spaces or along curbs or walks. Once 


established, water need is low. Growth is 

more vigorous with moderate water. An 

ideal ground cover for erosion control. 

Install drip head or bubbler 1-1/2 to 2 feet 

from plant crown. 

Gazania rigens 

leucolaena 

26° 

trailing gazania 

(G. leucolaena). Clean, silvery green foliage 

spreads rapidly, forming an attractive, 

clumping cover. Grows 6 to 10 inches 

high spreading up to 2 feet wide. Daisylike 

flowers in a selection of yellows and 

oranges are borne in profusion practically 

every month of the year. Useful on banks 

for erosion control. Acceptable growth in 

relatively poor soil. Space 1-1/2 to 2 feet 

apart. Not for extremely hot or sunny locations, 

such as western exposure. Accepts 

some shade. Native to South Africa. 

Lantana 

montevidensis 

28° 

trailing lantana 

Clumping, rapid-growing and free-blooming 

ground cover from 1-1/2 to 2 feet 

high spreading to 3 feet wide. Plants are 

blanketed with lavender flowers during the 

warmer seasons. If damaged by frost, prune 

in late winter and plants come back fast 

in the spring. Ideal bank cover, especially 

on sunny slopes, good for erosion control. 

Space plants 1-1/2 to 2 feet apart for ground 

cover. Native to South America. 

‘Gold Mound’, a hybrid introduction 

from Texas A&M University, has rich gold 

flowers and does not produce seeds. Many 

other hybrids are available. 

Myoporum 

parvifolium 

24° 

myoporum 

A good ground-hugging cover for the 

Coachella Valley, myoporum is tough, 

hardy and fast-growing. It grows 3 to 

4 inches high spreading wide to 6 to 9 

feet. Bright green, 1-inch leaves with 

white flowers in summer produce a cooling 

effect. Branches root as they spread. 

Best with morning sun, which is an eastern 

exposure. Needs well-drained soil. 

Below left (bottom): 

Convolvulus 

mauritanicus, ground 

morning glory. 

Below left (top): 

Convolvulus cneorum, 

silver bush morning 

glory. 

Below center: Myoporum 

parvifolium, myoporum. 

Below: Lantana 

montevidensis, trailing 

lantana. 

Ground Covers u 97

Above right: Ruellia 

brittoniana ÔKatieÕ, 

dwarf ruellia. 

Above left: Oenothera 

berlandieri, Mexican 

evening primrose. 

Above: Rosmarinus 

officinalis ÔProstratusÕ, 

prostrate rosemary. 

Works well as cover on slopes and banks, 

but does not tolerate traffic. Native to 

Australia. 

Oenothera berlandieri 

mexican evening 

15° 

primrose 

This plant makes a colorful, upright ground 

cover for small areas. Grows to 12 inches 

high with 1-1/2-inch, rose-pink blossoms 

that bloom late spring into summer. Cut 

back prior to bloom in late winter, then 

again after flowering ceases for best performance. 

Be aware that this plant can be 

invasive, and spreads by underground runners 

to invade nearby plantings, particularly 

in regularly irrigated areas. Native to 

the Chihuahuan Desert. 

Oenothera stubbei 

chihuahuan primrose, 

10° 

saltillo primrose 

In past years, this plant was incorrectly 

labeled Oenothera drummondii, and sold 

as Baja primrose. It is an evergreen ground 

cover that reaches 6 inches high and spreads 

to around 3 feet wide when given regular 

moisture. Buttery yellow flowers to 3 

inches across open in evening and fade the 

next morning. Blooms throughout the year, 

but heaviest in spring. Spreads by underground 

runners, making it good for erosion 

control. Best in partial shade to half-day of 

full sun. Native to the Chihuahuan Desert 

of northeastern Mexico. 

Rosmarinus officinalis 

‘Prostratus’ 

0° 

prostrate rosemary 

Prostrate rosemary can be clumping, 

mounding, creeping or trailing, depending 

on the cultivar. Upright cultivars grow into 

shrub forms to 6 feet tall. Select cultivars 

carefully to fit garden space. All forms 

of rosemary can be used as the culinary 

herb. 

Native to the Mediterranean. ‘Prostratus’ 

spreads 4 to 8 feet and remains less than 

2 feet high. Small, light blue to violet 

flowers are profuse in early spring. Many 

new varieties are becoming available. 

Some have broader leaves, such as ‘Miss 

Jessup’, and others have brighter colored 

flowers such as ‘Collingwood Ingram’. 

‘Huntington Carpet’ is a particularly lowgrowing 

selection that retains foliage in 

the center of the plant better than other 

creeping forms. 


Ruellia brittoniana 

‘Katie’ 

18° 

dwarf ruellia 

This dwarf herbaceous plant grows to just 

12 inches high, spreading in a mounding 

form by underground runners. Blue, bellshaped 

flowers to 2 inches across bloom 

summer into fall, set off by medium green 

leaves 4 to 6 inches long. Can be used in 

containers, as a small-area ground cover 

or as a filler beneath taller plants. Native 

to Mexico. 

Teucrium chamaedrys 

‘Prostratum’ 

creeping germander 

Like rosemary, this herb can be bushy or 

creeping, be sure to purchase the creeping 

form if you want a ground cover. Unlike 

rosemary, the leaves are bright glossy 

green and rounded, and not at all needlelike. 

Creeping germander spreads rapidly, 

forming a thick cover 8 to 10 inches high. 

Plants root deeply and make an excellent 

soil binder. Plant 12 to 15 inches apart. 

Spikes of attractive, rosy lavender flowers 

bloom in spring and summer. Native to the 


Vinca major 

15° 

periwinkle 

This mounding ground cover grows rapidly 

to 1-1/2 feet high, spreading by runners 

that root as they spread to several feet 

wide. It’s an aggressive grower and can be 

invasive. Vigorous, glossy green foliage 

makes a wonderful background for starshaped, 

lavender-blue flowers that bloom 

spring and summer. Plant 1-1/2 to 2 feet 

apart for ground cover. Native to Africa. 

Wedelia trilobata 

30° 

yellow dot 

A rapid growing, trailing ground cover to 

1-1/2 feet high and 6 feet wide. Glossy, 

dark green leaves make an excellent backdrop 

to the small, golden yellow, daisylike 

flowers that cover the plant during the 

warm season. Locate carefully—this plant 

can be an aggressive grower if overwatered. 

Once established, water deeply only 

once a month in summer. Although it can 

grow in full shade, plants produce more 

flowers in full sun. Finches like the seeds. 

Native to Central and South America. 

Above left (top): 

Teucrium chamaedrys 

ÔProstratumÕ, creeping 

germander. 

Above left (bottom): 

Vinca major, periwinkle. 

Above right: Wedelia trilobata, 

yellow dot. 

Above: Oenothera stubbei, 

Chihuahuan primrose. 

Ground Covers u 99

V I N E S 


Vines are valuable, versatile plants. 

Plant them for restful green leaves, 

shade, screening, overhead protection, 

or for the pure beauty of their flowers. 

Because they need little root space and 

take advantage of the vertical dimension, 

they are ideal for small yards. 

Many species are fast growing, and if 

provided a proper structure to climb 

on, a single vine can provide as much 

shade as a large tree—within a few 

years. 

When considering vines, be aware 

of the different methods in which they 

climb. Some do not climb at all, and 

must be tied in place. Others are selfclimbing, 

with tendrils, twining stems, 

grasping rootlets or a combination of 

methods. If you have stucco walls, avoid 

plants that climb with rootlets. They 

may cause serious damage. 


Antigonon leptopus 

queen’s wreath, 

25° 

coral vine 

In its native habitat, this Sonoran Desert 

native is usually found growing in canyons. 

It is a rapid-growing, twining climber, 

the stems up to 40 feet long providing 

quick, attractive cover. Leaves are bright 

green, large and heart-shaped. Queen’s 

wreath blooms profusely with large clusters 

of bright pink flowers with deeper 

pink centers. (See photo, opposite page, 

top.) Flowers attract bees. Plant goes dormant 

and freezes to ground when temperatures 

drop below 32°F. It regrows from 

roots when warm temperatures return in 

spring. If low temperatures are expected, 

cover roots with a deep layer of mulch. 

‘Baja Red’ produces bright red flowers. 

Bougainvillea species 

28° 

bougainvillea 

Bougainvillea species are popular “workhorse” 

plants in the Coachella Valley. 

Shrub and vining forms produce volumes 

of color from their bracts—the modified 

leaves that surround the actual, tiny white 

flowers. Select a warm microclimate for 

a planting site because bougainvillea is 

relatively frost-tender. If nipped by frost, 

wait until spring to remove frost damage. 

Plants produce a lot of litter, so avoid 

planting near pools. After young plants are 

established, keep bougainvillea on the dry 

side, which surprisingly encourages plants 

to produce more flowers. Originally native 

to South America. Numerous cultivars are 

available in a wide range of colors. A few 

favorites are listed here. 

‘Barbara Karst’ produces cascading 

masses of large, brilliant red to magenta 

bracts that are borne almost continually. 

One of the earliest to bloom each year. 

Can take lower temperatures than the other 

cultivars. ‘California Gold’ has rich golden 

orange bracts that bloom profusely in vivid 

contrast to its deep green leaves. ‘Jamaica 

White’ has masses of frothy, sea foam 

white bracts that cascade from branch tips. 

Blooms occasionally take on a slight pink 

tinge with cooler weather. ‘Orange King’ 

is covered with bronzy orange-gold flower 

bracts in graceful sprays. ‘Texas Dawn’ 

produces rosy pink bracts suspended from 

long arching sprays. ‘Temple Fire’ is a 

newer cultivar that is partially cold-deciduous 

with bronze-red bracts. 

These two are more shrublike in their 

growth habit: ‘Crimson Jewel’ has luxurious, 

dark foliage, which make an ideal 

background for hundreds of brilliant, 

glowing, red bracts. Plant grows vigorously 

from 3 to 5 feet high. ‘La Jolla’, with 

red bracts, is similar but more compact. It 

is good in containers. 

Campsis radicans 

20° 

trumpet vine 

This southeastern United States native 

is tolerant of the harsh summer growing 

Below left: Bougainvillea 

species, bougainvillea. 

Below: Campsis 

radicans, trumpet vine. 

Vines u 101

Below right: Mascagnia 

macroptera, yellow 

orchid vine. 

Below center: 

Macfadyena unguiscati, 

catclaw. 

Below: Gelsemium 

sempervirens, Carolina 

jessamine. 

conditions in the Coachella Valley. It is 

vigorous and self-climbing to 20 feet or 

more high and wide. The dark green leaves 

are deciduous in winter. Clusters of 3-inch, 

orange or red flowers bloom summer and 

fall and are pollinated by hummingbirds. 

Rapid growth rate. Use as a color accent, 

shade or screening. Grows best in partial 

shade. Provide regular water to maintain 

flowers and dense foliage. 

Clytostoma 

callistegioides 

lavender 

20° 

trumpet vine 

(Bignonia violacea, B. speciosa). This 

evergreen vine accepts sun or shade. Pale 

lavender to violet, trumpet-shaped flowers 

3 inches long bloom in spring and summer, 

set off by glossy green leaves. It climbs 

by tendrils, then terminal shoots cascade 

downward for a curtainlike effect. Prune in 

late winter to control and to renew plants. 

Native to Brazil. 

Gelsemium 

sempervirens 

10° 

carolina jessamine 

An evergreen, twining vine with rich green 

leaves. Climbs to about 20 feet, but does 

require support. Profusion of trumpetshaped, 

bright yellow, fragrant flowers 

bloom in late winter to early spring. Does 

best in partial shade in the Coachella 

Valley. Cut back severely if it becomes too 

heavy. Note that all plant parts are poisonous. 

Native to southeastern U.S. 

Hardenbergia violacea 

20° 

lilac vine 

An evergreen vine with long, rich green 

leaves. Bark is a rich cinnamon brown. 

Climbs by twining to 10 feet in just one 

year, but requires support. Dense clusters 

of sweet pealike, bright lilac-purple flowers 

bloom in late winter to early spring. 

Wonderful evergreen cover on arbors, 

especially as it ages and the richly colored 

bark gets to show off. Accepts some shade. 

Cultivars are available in shades of white, 

pink and blue. Native to Australia. 

Jasminum mesnyi 

15° 

primrose jasmine 

(Jasminum primulinum). Fast growing, 

reaching to 10 feet in the first year, with 

medium green leaves and large yellow 

flowers bloom in late winter. A sprawling 

vine, it can be tied onto trellises. Controls 

erosion on banks, cascading down them. 

Left alone, it develops into a large, fountain-shaped 

shrub. Accepts some shade. 

Native to western China. 


Lonicera japonica 

‘Halliana’ 

20° 

hall’s honeysuckle 

Vigorous, twining, evergreen vine that is 

occasionally grown as a rampant ground 

cover. Fast cover on fences and trellises. 

Renew growth by cutting plants back 

severely in late winter every year or two. 

Highly fragrant flowers are pure white 

then quickly turn golden yellow. They are 

most profuse in spring, blooming sporadically 

in summer. Medium green foliage. 

Accepts full sun to partial shade. 

Macfadyena 

unguis-cati 

15° 

catclaw 

Dense green foliage shows off bright yellow 

flowers that cover the plant in spring, 

although flowering is profuse, the season 

is short lived. Rapid, vigorous growth with 

clinging rootlets, it can spread 30 to 40 feet 

vertically or horizontally. Best on chain 

link fence or brick—it has been known to 

pull stucco off walls. Native to Central and 

South America. 

Mascagnia macroptera 

22° 

yellow orchid vine 

(Callaeum macropterum). Twining vine 

with small, interesting, medium green 

leaves. Use on a trellis, chain-link fence 

or any upright support. Accepts some 

shade. Dense clusters of showy, yellow, 

orchid-shaped flowers appear in spring (if 

plants did not freeze the previous winter), 

and in fall. Remove frost-damaged leaves 

and stems in late winter or early spring. 

Moderately fast grower, reaching 15 feet 

in a year. Native to Mexico. 

A similar plant is Mascagnia lilacina, 

purple orchid vine. It is about the same 

size and habit as yellow orchid vine, but is 

more cold hardy and flowers are purple. 

Merremia aurea 

25° 

merremia 

This vine can grow to 25 feet or more with 

support. Bright yellow, 2-inch, morning 

glory-type flowers bloom summer and fall, 

accompanied by dense, bright green leaves 

divided into five leaflets. Requires full 

sun for good growth and flowers. Regular 

water during growing season is necessary 

for flower production. Plant near a wall, 

fence or other structure on which to climb. 

Fast growth allows its use as wind or 

sun screen. Control rampant growth with 

pruning. Remove frost-killed vegetation in 

spring after danger of frost has passed— 

plants recover quickly. Native of southern 

half of Baja California. 

Also consider Merremia dissecta, milea-minute 

vine, with white flowers. 

Below left (bottom): 

Hardenbergia violacea, 

lilac vine. 

Below left (top): Lonicera 

japonica ÔHallianaÕ, 

HallÕs honeysuckle. 

Below center: Jasminum 

mesnyi, primrose 

jasmine. 

Below: Merremia aurea, 

merremia. 

Vines u 103

Above right: Rosa banksiae, 

Lady BanksÕ rose. 

Above left: Passiflora X 

alatocaerulea, passion 

flower vine. 

Above: Podranea 

ricasoliana, pink 

trumpet vine. 

Parthenocissus 

tricuspidata 

‘Hacienda Creeper’ 

25° 

hacienda creeper 

This cultivar of Boston ivy is semievergreen. 

A vigorous, clinging vine that will 

attach itself to masonry walls and stonework. 

Bright green, compound leaves turn 

to vivid shades of red and orange in fall. 

Locate where plants will receive some 

shade, preferably in the afternoon. Hybrid 

of parents native to China. 

Passiflora X 

alatocaerulea 

25° 

passion flower vine 

(Passiflora pfordtii). Twining evergreen vine 

rapidly growing to 30 feet in a single year. 

Foliage has a tropical look with three 

parted, bright green leaves. Masses of 4- 

inch, spectacular flowers bloom in summer 

and are used to make perfume. Flowers are 

pink tinged white, with a crown of purple. 

Accepts some shade. Protect from wind. 

Hybrid of P. alata of Peru and P. caerulea 

of Brazil. 

Passiflora foetida 

longipedunculata 

25° 

baja passion vine 

This evergreen twining vine can grow to 

10 feet in a year. The gray-green leaves 

are velvety and provide a nice backdrop 

to the white with lavender blooms that last 

through the warm season. It can freeze 

to the ground, but will rapidly recover 

in spring. Accepts some shade. Native to 

Baja California. 

Podranea ricasoliana 

25° 

pink trumpet vine 

Twining vine with stems up to 20 feet 

long. Rich green leaves are divided into 

9 to 11 leaflets. Clusters of pink flowers 

to 2 inches long bloom summer and fall. 

Stems damaged by frost recover rapidly in 

spring. Use on a trellis or chainlink fence, 

tying stems in place. Ideal plant for highwater, 

mini-oasis garden location. Native 

to southern Africa. 

Rosa banksiae 

lady banks’ rose, 

10° 

tombstone rose 

Provide this popular evergreen to semideciduous 

vine with sturdy supports as it 

grows vigorously to 10 to 25 feet. Lady 

Banks’ rose is suited to large-scale landscapes, 

where it can spread out or climb an 

arbor. This rose produces no thorns, so it is 

fine to use near pedestrian traffic areas or 

by pools. Native to China. 

‘Lutea’ blankets plants with double pale 

yellow flowers in spring. ‘Alba Plena’ has 

double white flowers. Native to China. 

Trachelospermum 

jasminoides 

25° 

star jasmine 

(Rhynchospermum jasminoides). Lustrous, 


deep green, leathery foliage, this plant is 

most admired for its masses of white, highly 

perfumed, star-shaped flowers, which 

bloom most heavily in spring. Versatile 

uses include espalier, pillar support vine or 

ground cover. Needs support such as a trellis 

on which to climb. Best on east or north 

exposures. Native to China. 

Vigna caracalla 

20° 

snail vine 

(Phaseolus caracalla). Snail vine is a vigorous, 

twining plant, reaching 30 feet in a 

year. With a foliage effect similar to the 

vegetable pole bean, it makes an excellent 

screen. Masses of slightly fragrant, showy, 

lavender flowers bloom throughout the 

year. Excellent trained on wire fences or on 

banks. Remains evergreen in mild winters. 

If frost kills top growth, cut back in early 

spring to rejuvenate growth. Occasionally 

mislabeled as Phaseolus gigantea. Native 

to tropical South America. 

Vitis californica 

20° 

california wild grape 

Climbing by tendrils, wild grape can reach 

30 feet in a summer. Grow it for the foliage, 

not the tiny, tart fruit. Leaves emerge 

gray and brighten to green, then turn red in 

fall and drop. Vines regrow the following 

spring. ‘Rogers Red’ holds its gray-green 

leaf color all summer, then turns brilliant 

red and orange in fall. Native to California 

and Oregon. 

Vitis vinifera 

20° 

grape 

This deciduous vine is grown for its fruit, as 

well as for the lush, heart-shaped medium 

green leaves. It clings by tendrils, growing 

vigorously to 10 to 20 feet, supplying 

cooling summer shade. Provide vines with 

a sturdy support structure. Prune canes 

in winter. Grape leaf skeletonizers arrive 

in waves during summer to quickly strip 

leaves. Watch for the small, blue-black, 

slow-moving moths that lay the eggs. 


Wisteria floribunda 

20° 

japanese wisteria 

The bright green foliage of Japanese 

wisteria is deciduous. Twining, woody 

growth reaches to 25 feet. Native to Japan. 

‘Longissima Alba’ is impressive with its 

pure white flowers that cascade in spikes 

to 4 feet long. ‘Royal Purple’ attracts attention 

with long, violet-purple flowers in 

spring. Often sold as W. multijuga. 

Wisteria sinensis 

25° 

chinese wisteria 

This is the more commonly grown wisteria 

in the West. It has a twining and deciduous 

form with medium green foliage. Needs 

support to grow; such as on top of an arbor. 

It reaches up to 30 feet long. In spring, 

puts on a show of purple or white flowers, 

depending on cultivar. Native to China. 

Above left: 

Parthenocissus 

tricuspidata 

ÔHacienda CreeperÕ. 

Above center: Vigna 

caracalla, snail vine. 

Above right: Passiflora 

foetida longipedunculata, 

baja passion vine. 

Above: Wisteria 

floribunda, 

Japanese wisteria. 

Vines u 105

C A C T I & S U C C U L E N T S 


Cacti and other succulents are excellent 

choices for a low-water, lowmaintenance 

landscape. In fact, their 

low-water rating is actually lower 

than other plants. Water most cacti, 

for example, about every two weeks in 

summer. From a design standpoint, 

most are bold accents; others are 

almost shrublike. Some are attractive 

clustered together in groups or even 

as a mass planting; others are more 

effective planted as single specimens. 

Resist the temptation to get one of each 

and drop them here and there about the 

yard. The result becomes an unnatural 

and unappealing hodge podge. Use 

cacti and succulents as exclamation 

points in the landscape, or partner with 

flowering perennials and shrubs. 


Agave species 

Agave 

Agaves are also known as century plants. 

Although most live far less than a century, 

they do endure for many years, slowly storing 

energy and getting larger. They finally 

spend their energy in one massive flowering 

event. Depending on the species, they 

grow a single large flower stalk up to 15 

to 30 feet high, offering flowers for pollination 

by hummingbirds, other birds, and 

bats. After flowering, the plant dies. 

Some agaves like to hedge their bets 

when it comes to reproduction. Before 

they flower they also produce a number of 

small offsets called pups around their base. 

If you prefer, you can select a species that 

is “solitary” and does not produce pups as 

readily. 

Most agaves have sharp spines on the tips 

of their leaves. Many also have teeth along 

the leaf margin. This can make them beautiful 

to behold but dangerous to be near. 

Locate them well away from walkways or 

gathering areas, and allow for their mature 

size. Unlike a shrub or ground cover, you 

cannot trim or prune agaves back to suit a 

small space. You must learn to live with it, 

or remove it. 

Agave americana 

15° 

century plant 

Grayish blue-green leaf blades with spines 

on tips and margins. With time, grows to 10 

feet high and spreads to 15 feet wide—too 

large for many gardens. Average life span 

is 20 years. A number of slightly smaller, 

variegated varieties of A. americana are 

available. Native to Mexico, but naturalized 

in mild-winter climates worldwide. 


marginata 

variegated 

15° 

century plant 

Grayish blue-green leaf blades feature a 

stripe of yellow down both sides of every 

leaf. Plant reaches to 10 feet high and 13 

feet wide. Because of its large size, locate 

it carefully. Accepts some shade. 


mediopicta 

mediopicta variegated 

15° 

century plant 

Grayish, blue-green leaf blades feature a 

stripe of yellow down the middle of every 

leaf, as compared to the leaf margins of 

A. americana marginata. Plant reaches 4 

feet high and 4 feet wide. Accepts some 

shade. 

Below left: Agave 

americana mediopicta, 

mediopicta variegated 

century plant. 

Below: Agave 

americana marginata, 

variegated century plant. 

Cacti & Succulents u 107

Below right: Agave 

vilmoriniana, octopus 

agave. 


colorata, mescal ceniza. 

Below: Agave murpheyi, 

MurpheyÕs 

agave. 

Agave colorata 

15° 

mescal ceniza 

Broad, blue-gray leaf blades are edged 

with intricate dark brown teeth that leave 

embossed patterns on the leaf they were 

pressed against in the bud. Solitary plants 

form an angular yet compact rosette 4 feet 

high and 4 feet wide. Slow to moderate 

growth rate. Native to Sonora, Mexico. 

Agave geminiflora 

20° 

twin-flowered agave 

Narrow, medium green leaves have sharp 

tips but toothless edges. Occasionally, the 

leaves are graced with fine white marginal 

fibers. Solitary plants reach 3 feet high 

and 3 feet wide with a moderate to rapid 

growth rate. Tolerates a range of exposures. 

In full or reflected sun, the rosettes 

are tight and compact. Plants in full shade 

have a more open and relaxed growth 

habit. Can be grown as a container plant. 

Native to west-central Mexico. 

Agave murpheyi 

10° 

murphey’s agave 

Medium wide leaves are bluish to yellow 

green with spines on the tip and many fine 

teeth along the edges. Slow to moderate 

growers, plants reach 3 feet high and 3 feet 

wide. Pups form readily from the base, but 

also can be found on the flowering stalk. 

Accepts some shade. These were once 

cultivated by native indians in Arizona. 

Native to Arizona and Sonora, Mexico. 

Agave parryi 

parry’s agave 

Broad, gray-green leaves are edged with 

brown teeth that leave embossed patterns 

on the leaf they were pressed against in 

the bud. Forming compact, nearly round 

rosettes, individual plants reach 3 feet high 

and as wide, and can pup readily into large 

colonies. Native from central Arizona into 

New Mexico. 

Agave victoria-reginae 

10° 

queen victoria agave 

A compact, symmetrical little agave that 

does fine in containers or in the ground, 

and takes on quite a regal appearance. It is 

excellent for smaller spaces, and in filtered 

light under trees. The short, thick leaves 

have distinctive white markings and a 

single spine on the tips. The solitary plants 

reach 1 to 1 1/2 feet high and as wide. 


Agave vilmoriniana 

20° 

octopus agave 

Light green, fleshy, and unarmed, the 

leaves of the octopus agave elongate and 

curve back, arching with age, until the 

plant does look remarkably like a large 

green octopus. The solitary plants reach 4 


feet high and spread to 6 feet wide with a 

slow to moderate growth rate. They flower 

when they are around a decade old. They 

do not pup from the base, but can easily be 

grown from pups called bulbils that appear 

on the flowering stalk. Native to west-central 

Mexico. 

Agave weberi 

20° 

weber’s agave 

One of the largest agaves, it makes a dramatic 

accent with broad, blue-green leaves 

that form a neater rosette than Agave 

americana. Leaf edges have many fine teeth. 

Individual plants reach 5 feet high and 5 feet 

wide with a slow to moderate growth rate. 

Needs occasional watering to look its best. 

Accepts some shade. Occasionally produces 

pups. Native to east central Mexico. 

Aloe species 

Aloe 

Aloes are highly variable in form, size, color 

and texture. Some species make dramatic 

accents, such as Aloe ferox, while others, 

including Aloe vera and Aloe variegata, 

look their best massed in large beds. Many 

do well in containers. Once they are mature, 

they flower every year with long stalks of 

flowers pollinated by hummingbirds. Not 

all aloes are medicinal such as Aloe vera— 

some are used to make poison darts! Aloe 

mite can be a problem with some species. 

All aloes are native to Africa. 

Aloe arborescens 

30° 

tree aloe 

Thick, fleshy leaves are usually gray-green 

although they can vary with subspecies; 

some are sea green to lime green. Leaves 

are 2 inches wide and 2 feet long with regular 

gray teeth along the margins. Growth 

is upright and bases become woody. In 

their native South Africa, ancient plants 

reach 3 to 14 feet high, topped in winter 

with tall spikes of red flowers. 

Aloe dawei 

25° 

dawe’s aloe 

This is a dramatic aloe for winter color, 

with tall, branched spikes of fiery, orangered 

tubular flowers December through 

February. Hummingbirds adore the flowers 

rich in nectar. Long, narrow, bright 

green leaves are edged with small teeth, 

forming an almost shrublike cluster to 3 

feet high and as wide. Does best with afternoon 

shade and water every two to three 

weeks in summer. Native to Uganda. 

Aloe ferox 

25° 

cape aloe 

A slow-growing, solitary aloe that eventu- 


parryi, ParryÕs agave. 

Below center: (bottom): 

Agave weberi, WeberÕs 

agave. 

Below center: (top): 

Agave geminiflora, 

twin-flowered agave. 

Below right: Aloe ferox, 

cape aloe. 


Above right: Carnegiea 

gigantea, saguaro cactus 

(ocotillo at right). 

Above center: Aloe vera, 

aloe vera. 

Above left (top): Asclepias 

subulata, desert milkweed. 

Above: Aloe variegata, 

partridge breast aloe. 

ally becomes treelike to 12 feet high and 

5 feet wide. Thick, wide, bluish green 

leaves are edged with russet-colored teeth. 

Hummingbirds love the flaming orangered 

flowers that appear clustered on a tall 

stalk from late winter into spring. Locate 

where plants will receive afternoon shade 

and water once a month in summer for best 

appearance. Native to the South African 

Cape. 

Aloe variegata 

20° 

partridge breast aloe 

This small aloe likes the protected understory 

environment beneath canopy trees or 

shrubs. It reaches 1 foot high and as wide 

with gray-green, triangular leaves decorated 

with white markings. Plants slowly form 

clumping colonies that produce spikes of 

coral-pink flowers in spring and again in 

fall, attracting hummingbirds. Provide protection 

from the afternoon sun. Excellent 

in a rock garden or mixed in with spring 

wildflowers. Native to South Africa. 

Aloe vera 

25° 

aloe vera, true aloe 

(A. barbadensis). Long, slender, graygreen 

leaves unmarked by any spots combined 

with yellow flowers lets you know 

this is the true medicinal aloe. Grows 

to 3 feet high, spreading to 3 feet wide. 

Flowers bloom late winter and into spring, 

appearing on spikes up to 2 feet high above 

the plant. Accepts full sun to part shade; 

provide supplemental water in summer 

to those plants located in full sun. Native 

to Mesopotamia, and traded throughout 

Africa, Asia and Europe. 

Asclepias linearis 

20° 

threadleaf milkweed 

A bright green, fine-textured plant that 

can be used as an accent or backdrop 

in a water-efficient landscape. Soft, fine, 

threadlike leaves are held rigidly out from 

the multiple stems that form a shrublike 

clump to 3 feet high and as wide. Clusters 

of small white flowers appear on branch 

ends from spring into fall, and are a favorite 

of both queen and monarch butterflies. 

Native to southern Arizona. 

Asclepias subulata 

25° 

desert milkweed 

Grows to 4 feet high with slender, graygreen 

stems. Pale yellow, flat-topped flowers 

bloom in clusters from spring into 

fall. Seed pods to 3 inches long split and 

send out silvery seed fluffs. Great accent 

around rock-studded drainage swales or 

courtyards. Good soil drainage required. 

Attracts queen and monarch butterflies, 

especially if they are planted in a mass. 



Bulbine frutescens 

10° 

bulbine 

Long stalks of delicate yellow or orange 

flowers appear in spring, forming clumps 

to 18 inches high. Leaves of orange-flowering 

forms are more gray-green and are 

more tolerant of full sun. Leaves of yellow-flowering 

forms are brighter green 

and do better with some shade. Both grow 

best in well-drained soil. Can be grown in 

containers. Native to South Africa. 

Carnegiea gigantea 

15° 

saguaro cactus 

This columnar cactus is a well-known 

symbol of the Southwest. Extremely slow 

growing 50 to 60 feet high, it towers over 

the desert landscape. A saguaro may take 

30 years to reach 10 feet high and be 

mature enough to flower. Large, white, 

bat-pollinated flowers appear wreathlike 

atop arms in May, followed by edible red 

fruit. Avoid winter irrigation, but supply 

monthly water in summer. Requires good 

soil drainage. Young plants can freeze at 

30°F. In nature, they survive freezes and 

intense summer heat by growing under a 

“nurse tree.” Native to Sonoran Desert. 

Cereus 

hildmannianus 

25° 

hildmann’s cereus 

A fast-growing, columnar, clumping cactus. 

Each column is up to 10 feet tall and 

6 to 8 inches around. However, the entire 

plant can spread to 10 feet wide. During 

summer, large, showy white flowers open 

at night and fade by the next morning. A 

large, luscious, watermelon-flavored fruit 

follows the flowers, if they have been 

pollinated. Accepts some shade. Native to 

eastern South America. 

Dasylirion 

longissimum 

15° 

grass tree 

(Dasylirion quadrangulatum). Dramatic, 

tropical-looking accent plant that eventually 

can reach over 10 feet high, topped 

with a whorl of long, slender, dark green, 

grasslike leaves. Although it only needs 

8 to 10 inches of rainfall per year, it will 

tolerate more water, so it can be combined 

with other, more lush, tropical plants for 

great effect. Also accepts shade to part 

shade exposures. Native to Mexico. 

Dasylirion species 

desert spoon, 

0° 

sotol 

Both of the following species are quite 

similar in appearance. They grow slowly, 

eventually developing a trunk. Mature size 

is 4 to 6 feet high, spreading to 5 feet wide. 

Once mature, flower spikes to 12 feet high 

appear in late fall, but age at which plants 

actually begin to bloom is unpredictable. 

Dasylirion acrotriche, green desert 

spoon, is almost identical to desert spoon: 

Its leaves are bright green rather than 

gray-green. Select this one if you seek a 

subtropical landscape effect. 

Dasylirion wheeleri, desert spoon, has 

narrow, gray-green leaves that are sharply 

Below left: Bulbine frutescens, 

bulbine. 

Below center: Cereus 

hildmannianus, HildmannÕs 

cereus. 

Below right: Dasylirion 

wheeleri, desert spoon. 

Below: Dasylirion 

longissimum, grass tree. 


Below right: Euphorbia 

rigida, gopher plant. 

Below left: Echinocactus 

grusonii, golden barrel 

cactus. 

Below: Ferocactus 

wislizenii, fish-hook 

barrel cactus. 

toothed along the edges. It is highly attractive 

in a desert setting. Both are native to 

southern Arizona. 

Echinocactus grusonii 

18° 

golden barrel cactus 

One of the best cactus for a bold accent 

in the landscape due to its symmetrical, 

globular shape and brilliant, golden spines 

that light up in the sun. Grows slowly to 3 

feet high or more, but remains a manageable 

size in most gardens for many years. 

Small yellow flowers appear in spring on 

the fuzzy crown of mature plants. Plant 

in sandy, well-drained soil. Water infrequently, 

perhaps once a month, slightly 

more often during summer. Native to 


Echinocereus 

englemannii 

10° 

engelmann’s hedgehog 

A short, clumping cactus that stops traffic 

when its large, brilliant, magenta flowers 

appear in May. A plant may reach 1 foot 

high to 8 inches across, but clumps can 

eventually spread several feet wide. Long, 

gray, downward-pointing spines show 

bands of red after a rain. Accepts some 

shade. Native to Sonoran Desert. 

Euphorbia rigida 

0° 

gopher plant 

(E. biglandulosa). Unique spring-flowering 

perennial with blue-gray, textured 

vertical and spreading branches that grow 

2 feet high by 4 feet wide. Flowers on 

tips of branches are brilliant chrome 

yellow. Most effective in a sunny spot. 

Mass in small areas in well-drained soil 

or plant in containers. After flowers complete 

bloom cycle, cut back branches 

to encourage new growth. Native to the 


Ferocactus 

cylindraceus 

10° 

compass barrel 

(F. acanthodes). At home in natural desert 

landscapes, this stout, barrel-shaped cactus 

is a subtle accent in a water-efficient 

garden. Slow growing to 4 feet high by 

1-1/2 feet wide. Plants tend to lean southward 

with time, giving them their common 

name. Spines are straight and reddish yellow. 

Yellow to orange flowers appear in 

May, followed by fruits with many, tiny, 

edible seeds inside. Natives would roast 

and eat the seeds. Avoid overwatering. 

Native to Sonoran and Mohave Deserts. 

Ferocactus wislizenii 

fish-hook 

0° 

barrel cactus 

This cactus looks much like the compass 

barrel, except the spines are curved in 

a fish hook shape. And, with time (several 

decades), it eventually reaches 10 

feet high. Spring flowers are yellow to 

orange, followed by yellow, tart, edible 


fruit filled with thousands of tiny black 

seeds. Avoid overwatering or plants may 

rot and die. Plant in sandy, well-drained 

soil. Native from Arizona into west Texas 

and Mexico. 

Fouquieria splendens 

10° 

ocotillo 

Ocotillo is one of the most distinctive 

plants of the desert Southwest, and helps 

provide the Coachella Valley with a definite 

sense of place. A few to many, unbranched 

thorny canes, 10 to 15 feet long, arch up 

out and away from the plant’s base, creating 

a strong, vase shape. Small, bright 

green leaves cover the canes during periods 

of rain and humidity. Leaves drop 

during dry conditions as plants become 

dormant. Spikes of flame orange flowers 

that attract hummingbirds bloom at branch 

tips during spring. An excellent accent 

plant, especially when backlit by the sun. 

Prefers rocky limestone soils. Canes can 

be cut and used to create living fences. 

Note that plants grown in containers establish 

better than bare root plants. Native to 

southwestern U.S. 

Hesperaloe parviflora 

15° 

red yucca 

This succulent is not a yucca, but in the 

agave family. It is a workhorse accent 

plant, flowering tirelessly. Long, slender, 

swordlike leaves are edged with loose, 

curling white threads. Plants form clumps 

to 3 feet high and spread slowly to 5 feet 

or more. Red yucca is a long-term color 

provider with tall spikes of coral-pink 

flowers from late spring into late summer. 

The bell-shaped flowers are loved by 

hummingbirds. A variety with pale yellow 

flowers is also available. Native to Texas. 

Hesperaloe funifera, giant hesperaloe, is 

similar but larger, reaching to 6 feet high 

and as wide. Leaves are upright, thicker 

and swordlike. Wide-spreading flower 

stalks to 10 feet high are topped with 

greenish white blooms late spring to summer. 

Native to the Chihuahuan Desert. 

Nolina microcarpa 

bear grass 

Narrow, grasslike leaves to 3 feet long form 

a fountain-shaped mound 3 to 6 feet high, 

spreading 5 to 8 feet wide. Leaf margins 

are covered with microscopic teeth. Stems 

rise 4 to 5 feet above the dense rosette 

clumps of small, creamy yellow flowers, 

which are striking in form, not in color. 

Plants thrive in gravelly, sandy, well-draining 

soil. Native to southwest U.S. 

Opuntia species 

Prickly Pear 

There are well over 200 varieties of prickly 

pear. Some have blue-gray pads, some 

Below left: Hesperaloe 

parviflora, red yucca. 

Below center: Nolina 

microcarpa, bear grass. 

Bottom right: Fouquieria 

splendens, ocotillo. 

Below: Echinocereus 

engelmannii, 

EngelmannÕs hedgehog. 


Below right: Opuntia 

species, opuntia. 

Below center (bottom): 

Portulacaria afra, 

elephantÕs food. 

Below center (top): 

Opuntia ficus-indica, 

indian fig. 

Below left: Opuntia 

basilaris, beavertail 

prickly pear. 

are bright green and others are tinged with 

violet. Cup-shaped flowers appear in May 

and bloom in shades of yellow, orange or 

magenta. All cactus family spines grow 

out of a cluster called an aureole. Some 

species lack long spines but have glochids 

instead. These are like porcupine quills, in 

that they are barbed to go further in, not 

out. If you are unfortunate enough to come 

in contact with these tiny spines, removing 

them from your skin is difficult. One method 

seems to work: Coat the area with white 

glue, let it dry, then peel them away. 

Opuntia basilaris 

10° 

beavertail prickly pear 

Typically blue-gray or deep green pads 

with aureoles of glochids. (See above.) 

Brilliant magenta flowers appear in May. 

Grows to 1 foot high and spreads to 4 feet 

wide, taking the form and space of a small 

shrub in the landscape. Native to southwest 

U.S. 

Opuntia engelmannii 

engelmann’s 

10° 

prickly pear 

Classic green pads with widely spaced, 

gray-white thorns. Pads are crowned in 

spring with yellow flowers followed by 

magenta fruit. Desert tortoises adore the 

sweet fruit, and people use the fruit to 

make jelly and candy. Reaches 4 feet 

high and spreads to 8 feet wide. Takes 

the form and space of a medium-sized 

shrub in the landscape. Native to southwest 

U.S. 

Opuntia ficus-indica 

22° 

indian fig 

The name refers to the edible fruit called 

“tuna,” which were relished by the ancient 

Aztecs. This tall, almost tree-like prickly 

pear reaches up to 15 feet high and as wide. 

This species is thornless. Cup-shaped yellow 

to orange flowers are followed by fruit 

that slowly turn from green to yellow to 

a purplish red. It is uncertain where this 

plant originated. It is a horticultural selection 

discovered and cultivated in tropical 

and subtropical America. 

Pachycereus 

marginatus 

20° 

mexican fencepost 

This is a fast growing, handsome, dark 

green, columnar cactus. It can reach 10 

feet high and branching from the base 

can spread to 6 feet wide, although each 

column is about 6 inches in diameter. The 

4 to 6 ribs of each column are decorated 

with small white spines. Pink flowers 


appear in spring. Use as a bold, dramatic 

accent in the ground or in a container. 

Plant along a wall for spectacular shadows. 

Extra arms are easy to remove with 

a pruning saw, and can then be planted 

directly in a new site. Native to southern 

Mexico. 

Pachypodium lamerei 

35° 

madagascar palm 

This distinctive member of the oleander 

family has gray bark and a swollen trunk 

where it stores water. The crown of large 

leaves on top and paired spines along the 

stem give it its unique appearance. Slow 

growing from 10 to 15 feet high, the diameter 

remains about 2 feet wide. Protect 

from cold when temperatures drop near 

freezing. Or, if grown in a container, move 

to a warmer location when frost threatens. 

Plant in well-drained soil. Accepts some 

shade. Native to southern Africa. 

Pedilanthus 

macrocarpus 

25° 

slipper flower 

A striking succulent that forms a clump 

of mostly leafless, upright, silvery green 

stems about the diameter of your index finger. 

Stems reach 2 to 3 feet high with the 

clump spreading slowly to 2 feet wide. The 

striking red “slippers” contain several tiny 

flowers, plus nectar that hummingbirds 

seek. They appear in late spring and occasionally 

summer into fall. Makes a fine 

container plant. Accepts some shade. Like 

most succulents, provide good drainage to 

avoid rot. Native to Baja California. 

Portulacaria afra 

28° 

elephant’s food 

This succulent is well adapted to the 

Coachella Valley. It’s an excellent container 

plant with an interesting, flowing growth 

habit that is at home among boulders and 

native plants. It is often confused with jade 

plant, Crassula argentea, which it resembles. 

Elephant’s food grows more rapidly, 

has more open growth, with limber, tapering 

branches. Stems are brownish, covered 

with 1/2-inch, glossy green, succulent 

leaves. Best with afternoon shade, but too 

much shade can cause plants to become 

straggly. Can suffer damage with exposure 

to intense sun. Native to South Africa. 

Stenocereus thurberi 

22° 

organ pipe cactus 

A slow-growing golden-green columnar 

cactus with narrow ribs and aureoles of 

Below left: Pachycereus 

marginatus, Mexican fencepost. 

Below center: Opuntia 

engelmannii, 

EngelmannÕs prickly 

pear. 

Below right: Pedilanthus 

macrocarpus, slipper 

flower. 


Below right: 

Trichocereus huascha, 

Argentine hedgehog. 

Below center: 

Stenocereus thurberi, 

organ pipe cactus. 

Below left: Yucca 

baccata, banana yucca. 

small reddish brown spines. Individual 

columns are about 8 inches in diameter, 

and grow to 10 feet high. Clumps can 

spread to 10 feet wide with time. Pale pink 

flowers open at night in late spring. Native 

to Sonoran Desert. 

Trichocereus huascha 

10° 

argentine hedgehog 

(Echinopsis huascha). A clumping hedgehog 

cactus with golden spines covering an 

olive green body. They glow beautifully 

when backlit by the sun and can be quite 

dramatic. Huge glowing red to orange 

flowers appear in spring, each one lasting 

only a single day. Accepts some shade. 

Native to Argentina. 

Yucca species 

Yucca 

Yuccas are generally more cold tolerant 

than agaves. Indeed, some survive as far 

north as North Dakota. Yuccas may have 

spines on leaf tips, but never along the 

edges, as agaves often do. Yuccas can be 

solitary or form clumps from the base. 

Once mature, yuccas bloom every year 

with tall stalks of creamy white flowers. 

Leave the dried stalks on the plant for the 

favorite nesting place of native bumblebees, 

or use in dried arrangements. All 

yuccas are native to the Americas. 

Yucca aloifolia 

0° 

spanish bayonet 

Stiff, sharp-tipped, 2-inch leaves are bright 

green to blue green, and grow 1-1/2 to 2- 

1/2 feet long. This is a clumping yucca— 

individual plants reach to 10 feet high and 

4 feet across. Clumps may spread to cover 

20 feet. An ideal accent for large spaces, 

but best located well away from pedestrians 

due to their sharp spines. 

Variegated (striped) cultivars are available. 

Native to southwest U.S. 

Yucca baccata 

banana yucca 

(Y. arizonica). Stiff, erect, bluish green 

leaves are 1 inch wide and 2 feet long. 

Single plants grow to 3 feet high and to 5 

feet across. Forms stemless clumps with 2 

to 6 rosettes. The fleshy green to purple, 

bananalike fruits 4 to 6 inches long are 

edible. Prefers well-drained soil. Native to 

southwest U.S. 

Yucca elata 

soaptree yucca 

Refined, deep green leaves are almost 

grasslike. They are 1/2-inch wide but grow 

to 4 feet long, with threadlike fibers on the 

margins. As leaves grow in dense clusters 

at the tops of the trunk, the dead, golden 

to brown leaves cling tightly to the trunk, 

shading the plant. It is slow growing and 

rarely branches, reaching 6 to 20 feet high 

and 8 feet wide. Roots contain saponins 


that can gently clean fine textiles. Native 

to Arizona and New Mexico. 

Yucca gloriosa 

20° 

spanish dagger 

Rosettes of bluish green, stiffly upright 

leaves are fleshy and grow to 2 feet long 

and 2 inches wide. This is a clumping 

yucca that grows at a moderate rate to 10 

feet high. Plant base becomes woody with 

age. Leave the tidy dead leaves in place— 

they help keep the plant cool. Native to 

southeastern U.S. from North Carolina 

into Florida. 

Yucca pallida 

0° 

pale-leaf yucca 

Pale blue-green leaves are flexible, and 

measure 1 inch wide by 1 foot long. This 

unusual yucca has finely serrated leaf margins 

that can be marked with light yellow 

to white. A clumping yucca, individuals 

reach 1 to 2 feet high and spread from 1 to 

3 feet wide. With ample water, clumps can 

get large, with up to 30 rosettes. Native to 

north central Texas. 

Yucca recurvifolia 

10° 

pendulous yucca 

(Y. pendula). Plants grow rapidly to 6 feet 

high. Dark, gray-green leaves with a bluish 

cast are 3 feet long and 2 to 3 inches wide. 

They have soft tips and a relaxed, pendulous 

nature. Solitary plants grow to 6 feet 

high and as wide. Trim off dead leaves for 

best appearance. Accepts shade. Native to 

southeast U.S. 

Yucca rigida 

0° 

blue yucca 

Powder blue leaves are stiff and sharp 

tipped, to 2 feet long and 2 inches wide. 

The solitary plants reach 12 feet high and 

spread to 5 feet wide. Older leaves dry and 

press against the trunk to help conserve 

water. This thatch should be left in place. 

Striking coloration and bold form make 

the blue yucca an outstanding accent plant. 

Native to northern central highlands of 

Mexico. 

Yucca whipplei 

10° 

our lord’s candle 

Slender, bluish gray-green leaves are 1 1/2 

feet long and 3/4 inch wide. They radiate 

from the base to form an attractive rosette 

2 feet high and 3 feet across. Like agaves, 

this yucca flowers once and dies, but generally 

a few pups (small plants) around the 

base insure the plant’s long-term survival 

in the landscape. Native to California, 

Arizona and Baja California. 

Above left (top): Yucca 

recurvifolia, pendulous 

yucca. 

Above left (bottom): 

Yucca pallida, pale-leaf 

yucca. 

Above center: Yucca 

rigida, blue yucca. 

Above: Yucca 

elata, soaptree yucca. 


O R N A M E N T A L G R A S S E S 


Ornamental grasses are often overlooked 

elements in a lush, water-efficient landscape. 

This is a shame, because grasses add such 

diversity and texture. They can soften the 

rigid outlines of cacti and succulents, and 

reinforce the arching, fountainlike theme 

offered by ocotillo or vase-shaped trees. 

Grasses also add color, depending on the species 

and season. Some have striking fall foliage, 

while others have persistent seed heads 

that dangle like golden ornaments for several 

months. 

Ornamental grasses need only two things 

from the homeowner: regular water to help 

keep them looking good, and a “haircut” once 

each year in late winter. 


Festuca glauca 

0° 

blue fescue 

(F. cinerea). A blue-gray, ornamental grass, 

growing in roundish tufts to 1 foot high, 

spreading to less than 1 foot wide (photo 

opposite, bottom left). Plants create an 

interesting pattern in borders or in the 

foreground of taller perennials and shrubs. 

Seedheads rise above clumps in the fall, 

creating a shaggy effect. Will not tolerate 

wet, poorly drained soil. Native to Europe. 

Imperata cylindrica 

‘Rubra’ 

0° 

japanese blood grass 

Forms upright clumps 1 to 2 feet high, 

spreading to 1 foot wide. Leaves emerge 

green in spring and redden as the weather 

warms. Best color occurs in a sunny exposure. 

This cultivar rarely flowers. Spreads 

by underground runners. Native to Japan. 

Muhlenbergia 

capillaris 

0° 

pink muhley 

Plant this traffic stopper for its graceful, 

fluffy, purple to pink plumes. They put on 

a show of color in late summer and fall. 

Locate plants where the sun will backlight 

the flower heads. Grows 3 to 4 feet high 

and as wide. This large size makes it excellent 

for large home landscapes and public 

areas such as golf courses.Native to Texas 

and northern Mexico. ‘Regal Mist’ is a 

popular cultivar (photo opposite, top left). 

Muhlenbergia 

emersleyi 

0° 

bull grass 

Graceful, evergreen leaves clump to 4 feet 

high or more with equal spread. Delicate, 

loose, reddish flower plumes reach a foot 

or two above the leaves in the fall. As they 

age they turn a cream color. Ideal among 

boulders (photo opposite, top right). 

Prefers afternoon shade in the Coachella 

Valley. Native to Texas. 

Muhlenbergia 

lindheimeri 

0° 

lindheimer muhley 

Strong vertical form with slender leaves. 

Large clumps reach 5 feet high and as 

wide. Dense, fluffy, golden plumes evoke a 

dwarfish version of pampas grass. Accepts 

some shade. Native to Texas. An improved 

cultivar is ‘Autumn Glow’. 

Muhlenbergia rigens 

0° 

deer grass 

This workhorse grass becomes a graceful, 

fountain-shaped mound 3 to 4 feet high, 

spreading 4 to 5 feet wide. Lush, rich 

green foliage is a softening element in the 

landscape. Slender, upright flower spikes 1 

foot above the foliage in fall make a striking 

contrast to the curving mound (photo 

below). Accepts some shade. Native to 

southwestern U.S. 

Nassella tennuissima 

mexican thread grass 

(Stipa tenuissima). A fine-textured, billowy 

grass that forms upright clumps 2 feet high 

and as wide (photo below). Even a mild 

breeze will stir the leaves and delicate seed 

heads, adding motion to the landscape. 

Outstanding in a mass planting. Accepts 

some shade. Native to New Mexico. 

Pennisetum 

setaceum ‘Rubrum’ 

20° 

red fountain grass 

Forms a large, dense clump 5 feet high 

and as wide with medium-textured foliage 

and coppery seed heads. The species has 

become a rampant pest in parts of the U.S. 

Before seeds mature, cut off flower heads, 

place them in a plastic bag and throw 

them away to prevent reseeding. However, 

‘Rubrum’ only occasionally sets seeds 

(photo opposite, bottom right). Native to 

tropical Africa. 

Below left: Nassella 

tennuissima, Mexican 

thread grass. 

Below right: 

Muhlenbergia rigens, 

deer grass. 

Ornamental Grasses u 119

P E R E N N I A L S 


Perennials are plants that live for more 

than one year, although many thrive for 

decades. They are primarily grown for 

their flowers, but some do double duty as 

ground covers or even shrubs. Most are 

easy to grow in containers—just provide 

them with a well-drained soil. For a new 

landscape or a major renovation, perennials 

are excellent choices for the color and 

interest they add in a short time. 

Gardeners living in the Coachella Valley 

have a wide selection of perennials to 

chose from—both cultivated varieties as 

well as native wildflowers. Selections of 

each are described here. 


desert marigold 

asparagus fern ‘Myers’ 

lily-of-the-nile 

columbine 

Grows 1 to 2 feet high with gray-green leaves. Large delicate flowers on long stems may be salmon, 

10 o 

yellow, lavender or white. Locate where plants will receive afternoon shade in a rich, organic soil. Cut back 

Opposite page: Acacia 

winter-dormant plants for regrowth the following spring. 

aneura, mulga, is an ever- 

Produces large clusters of blue flowers on 2-foot stems surrounded by dark green, and straplike, thornless evergreen leaves. 

15 o Fleshy roots store moisture. Effective in containers as well as in a natural garden acacia design. growing Locate to where 20 feet plants 

will receive afternoon shade; they burn in summer sun in low desert. high and 15 to 20 feet 

Produces large clusters of blue flowers on 2-foot stems surrounded by dark wide. green, straplike, evergreen leaves. 

0 o Fleshy roots store moisture. Effective in containers as well as in a natural garden design. Locate where plants 

will receive afternoon shade. Attracts hummingbirds. 

Opposite page: Bauhinia 

blakeana produces abundant 

‘Silver Mound’ is low growing to 1 foot high with interesting, silvery gray, fernlike evergreen leaves. Excellent 

20 o for rock garden or borders, especially in contrast with brightly colored flowers. Prefers 

maroon 

a sunny 

to 

exposure. 

pink 

flowers from December 

to April. 

‘Sprengeri’ has small leaves on arching branches, forming a rich, fluffy, bright green mound. Use as ground 

24 o 

cover, border, filler or in containers. Accepts exposure ranging from shade to full sun. ’Myers’ is similar but 


more refined with dense, clean, plumelike stems. 

blue leaf wattle, becomes 

(A. myriocladus, A. retrofractus). Tufts of rich, green, threadlike foliage resembles covered billows with of green large, smoke. yellow Many 

25 o long, slender stems 1-1/2 to 2 feet long rise in clumps that form tuberous roots. puffball Plant flowers in shade in only. spring. Makes a 

nice backdrop to colorful annuals. 

(A. plumosus). A vigorous plant with small, dainty, lacy, fernlike leaves that are deep green. Good cut foliage for 

25 o 

indoor arrangements. Climbing, vining growth or use as ground cover. Plant in shade only. 

Below: Yellow flowers of 

Grows 1 to 1-1/2 feet high, with bright yellow, daisylike flowers that bloom Acacia almost continuously farnesiana, from sweet spring 

10 o to fall on tall stems. Woolly gray leaves form a clump to 6 inches high. Cut acacia, back in are winter profuse to stimulate in new 

growth and flowers in spring. Reseeds readily. Seeds attract birds. spring and produce a wonderful 

Forms clumps to 1-1/2 feet high and 2 feet wide. The large, round leaves have wavy edges. Rose, lilac or purple 

flower spikes to 18 inches high bloom in January and February. Use as edging or ground cover in shade. 

10 o fragrance. 

Botanical Name How to Grow Description 

Common Name Water, Sun, Temp. Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season 

Achillea tomentosa 

woolly yarrow 

Agapanthus orientalis 

lily-of-the-nile 

Aquilegia hybrids 

columbine 

Artemisia schmidtiana 

angel’s hair 

Asparagus densiflorus 

asparagus fern 

Asparagus macowanii 

Macowan asparagus 

FERN 

Asparagus setaceus 

fern asparagus 

Baileya multiradiata 

desert marigold 

Bergenia crassifolia 

siberian tea 

woolly yarrow 

Perennials u 121

chocolate flower 

marguerite 


Common Name Water, Sun Temp. Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season 

Berlandiera lyrata 

chocolate flower 


aneura, mulga, is an evergreen 

cineraria and thornless 

Centaurea 

dusty acacia miller growing to 20 feet 

high and 15 to 20 feet 

Cerastium wide. tomentosum 

snow-in-summer 


Chrysanthemum blakeana frutescens produces abundant 

maroon to pink 

marguerite 


to April. 

Chrysanthemum X superbum 

shasta daisy 



Clivia covered miniata with large, yellow 

kaffir puffball lily flowers in spring. 

Coreopsis lanceolata 

lance-leaf coreopsis 


Coreopsis Acacia verticillata farnesiana, sweet 

‘Zagreb’ acacia, are Coreopsis profuse in 

spring and produce a wonderful 

Dicliptera resupinata 

dicliptera 

fragrance. 

shasta daisy 

lance-leaf Coreopsis 

‘Zagreb’ coreopsis 

To 1-1/2 feet high with 2-foot spread. Sprays of flowers in shades of yellow bloom spring to early summer and 

10 o 

produce a fragrance similar to chocolate. Flower heads expand in morning, drooping in afternoon. Leaves are 

green above, whitish underneath—combine with other gray-leaved plants. 

Compact growth to 2 feet high. Velvety white leaves have broad, roundish lobes. Solitary flower heads are 

10 o purple or yellow. Plant in full sun. Good soil drainage important. Be aware there are several different plants 

known by the common name dusty miller. 

Grows to just 4 to 6 inches high with soft, whitish gray leaves. Small white flowers to 3/4-inch across bloom 

0 o late spring into summer. For good contrast combine with green-foliaged plants. Trim spent flowers and tired 

stems at least once each year after flowering. 

A perennial but typically grown as an annual in the Coachella Valley. It reaches 2 to 3 feet high and as wide, 

20 o becoming almost shrublike. Available in white, yellow or pink flowering forms, each offset by bright green 

divided leaves. Plant from October through February for spring flowers into April. 

(C. maximum). White ray flowers surround yellow disks. The stem is straight or slightly branched and the basal 

-20 o 

leaves are deeply toothed. Plant from containers in spring or fall. Attractive in borders and as cut flowers. 

Divide plants every two years to develop more vigorous growth. 

Orange flowers bloom in clusters on stout stems to 2 feet high in early spring. Leaves of Belgian hybrids are 

25 o wider, dark green. For best flowers, let them grow undisturbed, forming large clumps. Great container specimen. 

Plants grow to 2 feet high with yellow daisylike flowers on long stems that bloom spring into early summer. 

10 o 

‘Early Sunrise’ grows to 1-1/2 feet high with double golden yellow flowers. Coreopsis are great border plants or 

cut flowers. Plant in full sun in regular garden soil. 

Grows to 1 foot high and about 2 feet wide. Golden yellow flowers bloom on tall stems, contrasting nicely with 

10 o 

bright green leaves. Flowering season is long—late spring to fall. Birds, including goldfinches, are attracted to 

the seeds. 

Grows to 2 feet high and as wide. Rose-purple flowers bloom from May through October. Use in small garden 

22 o areas such as patio or courtyard. Trim back after cold weather just prior to spring to renew growth. Dark green 

heart-shaped leaves are 1 inch long. Plant in well-drained soil. 


utterfly iris 

purple coneflower 

green gold 

golden dyssodia 

Plants grow from rhizomes to 2-1/2 feet high with stiff, upright leaves. Lemon yellow flowers with maroon spots 

25 o bloom for several months during the warm season. Moderate water use, but Opposite more flowers page: with more Acacia moisture. 


rhizomes and to thornless 2 feet high with stiff 

(Moraea vegeta, M. iridoides). Similar to Dietes bicolor. Evergreen perennial from 

25 o upright leaves. Small, white, irislike flowers bloom spring to fall. Accepts full acacia sun to partial growing shade. to 20 feet 


Small-scale perennial, growing to just 6 inches high and 1 foot wide. Medium wide. green, needlelike leaves are the 

perfect backdrop to profuse, bright yellow, daisylike flowers that bloom spring into fall. Not fussy about soil. 

10 o 

Combines well with cacti and succulents, or tucked into rock gardens. Opposite page: Bauhinia 

Purple cone-shaped flowers are long lasting and a favorite in a natural garden blakeana design. Grows produces 2 to 4 abundant 

from maroon seed and competes to pink well with 

feet high 

and 2-1/2 feet wide. Accepts most soils but does need full sun. Grows easily 

15 o 

grasses. Native to prairies in midwestern U.S. 


to April. 

Perennial that doubles as an accent. This relative of poinsettia is shrublike with thorny stems. Clusters of red 

35 o flowers bloom most of the year. Accepts heat. Drought tolerant, but better appearance Below left: with Acacia regular saligna, summer 

irrigation. Great in containers. 


Leafless plant grown for its unusual, pencil-thick branches with see-through covered patterns. Sap with is irritating large, yellow to people 

35 o 

and animals. Many gardeners grow them in containers so plants can be moved puffball to a frost-free flowers location in spring. during 

cold weather. 

Forgiving evergreen perennial that is often used a small shrub. ‘Viridis’ is an improved selection. Grows 3 to 4 

27 o 

feet high with fine-textured, deep green leaves. Yellow daisylike flowers to 2 inches across bloom fall into early 

winter. Good container plant. Tolerates a‐wide range of climates. Below: Yellow flowers of 

Acacia farnesiana, sweet 

Grows to 2 feet high or more. Bright blue, daisylike flowers with yellow centers bloom for several months during 

the warm season. Use in containers, borders or as a color accent. Accepts full sun, even in the Coachella 

20 o 

acacia, are profuse in 


Valley. 

This plant is a hybrid of G. aristata and G. pulchella. It flowers continuously from spring to frost. Striking red 

15 o and yellow flowers are set off by glossy green leaves. Plants range in size from less than 1 foot to 4 feet high, 

fragrance. 

depending on the selection. Many easy-to-grow varieties are available. 



Dietes bicolor 

peacock flower 

Dietes vegeta 

butterfly iris 

Dyssodia pentachaeta 

Golden dyssodia 

(Thymophylla pentachaeta) 

Echinacea purpurea 

purple coneflower 

Euphorbia milii 

crown of thorns 

Euphorbia tirucalli 

pencil bush 

Euryops pectinatus ‘Viridis’ 

green gold 

Evolvulus ruttalianus 

Hawaiian blue eyes 

Gaillardia X grandiflora 

blanket flower 

Perennials u 123

Blackfoot Daisy 

gazania 

daylily 

Angelita Daisy 

coral bells 

Gaura 



Gaura lindheimeri 

Gaura 



hybrids and thornless 

Gazania 

gazania acacia growing to 20 feet 


Gypsophila wide. paniculata 

baby’s breath 


blakeana produces abundant 


Hemerocallis hybrids 

daylily 


to April. 

Hesperis matronalis 

dame’s 

Below 

rocket 

left: Acacia saligna, 


Heuchera covered sanguinea with large, yellow 

coral puffball bells flowers in spring. 

Hymenoxys acaulis 

Angelita Daisy 


Acacia farnesiana, sweet 

Lavandula stoechas 

Spanish 

acacia, are 

lavender 

profuse in 


Melampodium leucanthum 

Blackfoot 

fragrance. 

Daisy 

10 o 

15 o 

0 o 

0 o 

0 o 

0 o 

10 o 

15 o 

0 o 

Grows 1 foot high, spreading up to 1-1/2 feet wide. Frilly white to pink flowers bloom on tall spikes summer 

into fall. Cut plants back in winter to encourage new, healthy growth. May be sold in nurseries as butterfly 

flower. 

Grows 1 to 3 feet high with gray-green leaves. Large delicate flowers on long stems may be salmon, orange, 

yellow, lavender or white. Locate plants where they will receive afternoon shade. Plant in a rich, organic soil. 

Cut back winter-dormant plants for regrowth the following spring. 

‘Bristol Fairy’ is an improved selection, growing to 3 feet high. Large loose clusters of tiny, double white flowers 

bloom profusely through summer on bluish green stems. Heat tolerant. 

Both evergreen and deciduous hybrids are available. Plants form a clump of slender arching leaves. Flowers 

in clusters bloom at the ends of tall stems midspring to early fall. They resemble lilies and come in many colors, 

including yellow, orange, red and many pastel shades. 

Produces purple and white flowers similar to those of phlox, borne in loose heads at ends of the stems. 

Flowers are fragrant, especially at night. Plants grow 2 to 3 feet high. Locate in full sun or partial shade in 

moist, well-drained soil. Easy to grow from seed. 

Grows 6 to 12 inches high with rounded leaves. Flowers are borne in clusters in coral, reddish pink, white or 

crimson and bloom on top of 1- to 2-foot stems. Locate in partial shade in fertile, well-drained soil. 

Grows 1 foot high and as wide in a rounded clumping form. Profuse numbers of golden yellow, 

daisylike flowers on stems above medium green leaves bloom throughout the year. Tuck into small spaces 

among boulders, or combine with cacti and succulents. Best with afternoon shade. 

The most heat-tolerant lavender, growing 3 to 4 feet high with an equal spread. Mounding plants have bluegreen 

foliage, complementing lavender-blue flower spikes that bloom in late spring and summer. Flowers and 

foliage are fragrant. Plants accept some shade, prefer it in the afternoon. 

Spreading, mounding, ground cover perennial grows 1 foot high and up to 2 feet wide. White daisylike flowers 

with yellow centers bloom throughout the year. Does best in well-drained soil and with afternoon shade. Great 

choice to include in a natural garden. 


parry’s penstemon 

paperflower 

white evening primrose 

texas paperflower 

Low-growing, reaching 8 to 10 inches high. Flowers are 1 inch long, bell-shaped, in rich blue to violet or white. 

30 o Plant in fall or winter for flowers in summer. Best with afternoon shade or in partial shade in well-prepared soil. 


Remove spent blooms, which encourages more flowers. 


flowers. and Blooms thornless on and off 

Evergreen with large, gray-green leaves and masses of large, 4-inch white 

5 o throughout the year but most prolific in spring. Plants form rounded clumps acacia 1 to 1-1/2 growing feet high, to spreading 20 feet 3 

feet wide. May die out in summer if overwatered. Reseeds readily. high and 15 to 20 feet 

Growth is different than most penstemons in that it is more shrublike to 2 feet wide. high. ‘Del Rio’ is an improved 

5 o selection, with cherry colored flowers blooming spring through fall. Loved by hummingbirds. Provide good soil 

drainage to prevent root diseases. 


This plant is among the first to bloom in early spring. Tubular scarlet flowers 

blakeana 

appear on 

produces 

3- to 4-foot stems 

abundant 


0 o above basal growth to 2 feet high and as wide. Plant in full sun—a shady location can cause plants to sprawl. 

Best in well-drained soils. Reseeds readily. Attracts hummingbirds. flowers from December 

to April. 

Tall, strongly vertical, 3- to 5-foot stems show off flowers in shades of pink. Widely adapted to desert regions. 

18 o Accepts full sun but better with filtered or afternoon shade in low desert. Plant in soil with good drainage. After 


flowers set seed, cut back to top of leaf rosette. 


Grows 1-1/2 to 2 feet high with typical penstemon rosette form. In spring, tubular covered flowers with in shades large, of yellow purple 

0 o appear above the basal growth on stems to 2 feet high. Plant in full sun—a puffball shady location flowers can in cause spring. plants 

to sprawl. Best in well-drained soils. Reseeds readily. Attracts hummingbirds. 

One of the largest penstemons, growing to 2 feet high and up to 3 feet wide. Brilliant, coral colored, tubular 

15 o flowers bloom on tall stems in late spring. Best in well-drained soils. Accepts some shade. Reseeds readily. 

Attracts hummingbirds. 


Plants grow 1 foot high, spreading to 2 feet wide. Evergreen foliage is gray-green. 

Acacia 

Yellow, 

farnesiana, 

daisylike 

sweet 

flowers 

10 o about 1 inch in diameter cover plants for long periods spring through fall. Will acacia, accept are partial profuse shade. in Don’t overwater; 

combines well with cacti. 


Shrubby evergreen that covers itself with bright yellow flowers from spring through summer and late fall. 

-20 o Growth is mounding to 1-1/2 feet high, spreading to 3 feet wide. After the blossoms dry and turn papery, they 

fragrance. 

maintain their yellow color. Locate in full sun to partial shade. 



Nierembergia caerulea 

dwarf cup flower 

Oenothera caespitosa 

white evening 

primrose 

Penstemon baccharifolius 

rock penstemon 

Penstemon eatonii 

firecracker penstemon 

Penstemon parryi 

parry’s penstemon 

Penstemon pseudospectabilis 

canyon penstemon 

Penstemon superbus 

superb Penstemon 

Psilostrophe cooperi 

paperflower 

Psilostrophe tagetina 

texas paperflower 

firecracker penstemon 

Perennials u 125

lack-eyed susan 

Mealy cup sage 



Ratibida columnaris 

Mexican Hat 

Rudbeckia hirta 

black-eyed susan 

Salvia farinacea 

mealy cup sage 

Salvia X superba 

blue queen sage 

Sphaeralcea ambigua 

Globe Mallow 

Tagetes lucida 

licorice marigold 

Tulbaghia violacea 

society garlic 


licorice marigold 

Globe Mallow 

society garlic 

Mexican Hat 

Wildflower perennial, growing to 2 feet high and as wide. Plant in masses for best effect and to enjoy the interesting 

yellow or maroon flowers. They bloom at tips of long stems, the petals draping downward, surrounding 

10 o 

dark cones in the flower’s center. Blooms spring to fall. 

Plants grow to 3 feet or more high. Large, showy, yellow-orange flowers are excellent for cutting and bloom all 

-10 o 

summer and into fall. Plant in full sun in almost any soil, spring to late fall. Cut back after bloom period. Can 

be grown as an annual with a fall sowing. 

Grows 1-1/2 to 2 feet high with an equal spread. Violet-blue flower spikes bloom for a long period through 

-10 o 

summer. Effective planted in masses. Best in full sun. Native to New Mexico and Texas. Attracts hummingbirds. 

Compact plant to 12 inches high produces deep blue flower spikes from early summer until frost. Attractive 

10 o 

when planted in masses. Best in full sun location with regular summer irrigation. Deadhead spent flowers frequently 

to increase flower production. 

Shrubby wildflower perennial that grows to 3 feet high and as wide. Coarse-textured leaves are gray-green. 

5 o 

Small, cup-shaped flowers bloom in spring. They come in many colors; the species is orange. Be careful while 

handling plants—they can irritate eyes and skin of some individuals. 

A fall bloomer with flowers that are similar to mountain marigold, Tagetes lemmonii, but growth habit is more 

20 o 

compact at 3 to 4 feet high. Leaves emit a scent of anise. Midsummer pruning controls growth and helps produce 

stronger stems to support flowers. May go dormant in winter. 

Rosy lavender flowers bloom in large clusters in spring and summer; their long-term beauty help make up 

0 o for the plant’s garlic scent. Flowers bloom on tall stems well above leaves, and foliage develops into large 

clumps. Grow in well-drained soil. Cut back in early spring to renew growth.

Moss verbena 

Desert Zinnia 

verbena species 

prairie zinnia 

california fuschia 

Forms a low, dense, evergreen mat of dark green foliage 4 to 16 inches high. Plant in full sun, 18 inches apart 

0 o for ground cover. Puts on spectacular displays of brilliant, crimson-red or pink flowers spring through fall. Look 

for ‘Lipstick’, purple flowers; ‘Red’, red flowers; ‘St. Paul’, pink flowers. 

(Verbena tenuisecta). Low-growing ground cover verbena to 1 foot high, spreading to 3 feet wide. Fine-textured 

20 o dark green leaves serve as background to purple flowers in clusters. They bloom spring to fall. Attracts butterflies. 

0 o 

Upright stems 8 to 12 inches high form a mat composed of small gray to green leaves. Bright orange-red or 

10 o white tubular flowers are borne in clusters at ends of stems early summer through winter, which are loved by 

hummingbirds. Can become invasive if regular moisture is available. 

Grows 1 foot high and as wide in a clumping form with thin, upright leaves. White star-shaped 

20 o flowers typically bloom following summer rains. 

Also consider Zephranthes grandiflora, a similar species with pink flowers. 

Grows less than 1 foot high, spreading to 1 foot wide. White daisylike flowers are small but bloom for a long 

10 o period—spring into fall. Excellent mounding plant to spread amongst rocks and boulders. Accepts tough conditions 

and low water. 

0 o 



Verbena peruviana 

peruvian verbena 

Verbena pulchella 

moss verbena 

Verbena rigida 

sandpaper verbena 

Zauschneria californica 

california fuschia 

Zephyranthes candida 

Rain Lily 

Zinnia acerosa 

Desert Zinnia 

Zinnia grandiflora 

prairie zinnia 

(Verbena venosa). A vigorous grower from 12 to 20 inches high with dark green, rough-toothed leaves. Stems 

support lilac to purple-blue flowers in clusters summer and fall. Like most verbenas, plants perform better if their 

leaves remain dry. Irrigate with drip system rather than overhead sprinklers. 

Grows 1 foot high and as wide. Spreads to fill in nooks among rocks and boulders. Flowers are 

yellow to orange, similar in appearance to desert zinnia, with a bloom period from summer to fall. Flowers 

attract butterflies. Accepts some shade. 

Perennials u 127

A N N U A L S 



Gardening with Annuals 

The vibrant colors of flowering annuals, lined up in 

containers, pots and packs at the nursery, tempt us 

each spring and fall. Each variety of these bedding 

plants, as they are called, looks appealing and we want to 

take all of them home to add to our gardens. But it’s a good 

idea to design and prepare planting beds before purchasing 

plants. Keep in mind that most annuals are high-water-use 

plants. For this reason, it’s a good idea to use 

them in up-close areas near patios or entries. 

Annuals are also excellent in containers. 

Getting Ready to Plant 

Planting at the right season can be the difference 

between success or failure. Ideal 

times to plant winter- and spring-blooming 

annuals are when night air temperatures 

range between 40°F to 60°F, and daytime 

air temperatures are 60°F to 80°F. Daytime 

soil temperatures should be about 75°F. 

These conditions generally occur from mid- 

October through November. 

Add organic soil additives to planting beds 

and mix thoroughly to 6 inches deep. Do this several weeks 

before planting. Bypass this step for desert natives. Moisten 

beds to 12 inches deep. 

New plantings can quickly become stressed if winds 

are strong or temperatures rise suddenly. Be aware of the 

weather and water new plants carefully. In fast-draining, 

sandy soil, moisture must be supplied regularly for plants to 

grow and remain healthy. Neglect will cause hardening of 

tissues and loss of plant health or life. Check the soil often 

to determine if plants need water. 

Soil-borne organisms have plagued new plantings of 

petunias and vincas when they have been planted in the 

same location, year after year. Prevent by removing leaf 

debris from planting beds, discard dead or dying plants and 

keep plants growing vigorously at all times. Rotate plantings—don’t 

always grow the same kind of plant in the same 

bed. Try something new each planting season. Contact your 

nursery for current disease controls. 

Planting Wildflowers 

Many wildflowers are included in the Annuals charts on 

pages 130 to 135. Including wildflowers in your landscape 

takes a little planning, but is worth the effort. Follow these 

few simple guidelines for preparation and planting. 

In order of preference, fall, winter and early spring are 

suitable for sowing seed of spring-blooming species. Plant 

summer-flowering varieties during the spring. 

Almost any sunny location (at least six hours of sun each 

day) is a candidate for wildflowers. Wildflowers native to 

the desert are, by their nature, better equipped to cope with 

our climate and soil conditions than water-demanding species 

introduced from other regions. However, like other 

plants, even tough desert natives require regular moisture to 

germinate seeds and establish seedlings. 

Wildflower mixes adapted to grow in the low desert are 

available for Coachella Valley gardeners. Individual species 

also work well. It is a matter of preference as to what effect 

you are looking for. If you create your own 

combination, select wildflowers that bloom 

at the same time. Consider planting them in 

separate beds to create distinct bands of colors. 

Over time, wildflower plantings take on 

their own character as plants reseed, spread 

and reseed some more. 

Sow seeds for spring-blooming annuals in 

the fall. Seed mixtures typically contain six 

or more species to ensure a long season and 

a variety of color. A 1-ounce seed packet 

will cover approximately 500 square feet. 

Prepare the planting area by removing 

weeds and debris prior to cultivation. Rake 

lightly to create a seed bed. Soak the soil 

slowly to moisten 8 to 12 inches deep. 

Broadcast seeds with a hand-held fertilizer spreader or by 

hand. Most wildflower seeds are very small. Mixing with 

fine dry sand provides more even distribution, and allows 

you to see where seeds are being applied. Don’t plant seeds 

too deep. Most wildflowers do best with 1/8-inch coverage 

of soil, but read the seed package to be sure. 

After seeding, rake soil lightly in a criss-cross pattern to 

cover seeds. Water lightly with a fine mist attachment on the 

hose. Avoid washing soil or applying so much water at one 

time that it creates gullies and runoff. Water seeded areas 

regularly until seedlings appear. After seeds sprout, apply 

water a couple of times each week, depending on moisture 

content of soil. Pull weeds as they appear. 

Adding fertilizer is seldom necessary. Most desert wildflowers 

do well in soils having low fertility. 

Germination periods vary considerably for different wildflowers, 

and are affected by soil and air temperatures. Some 

may sprout in two weeks, others take four to six weeks. 

Adequate deep moisture is essential. 

After plants complete their flowering cycle and go to seed, 

cut them back to about 6 inches high. With some wildflower 

species, you can collect seeds for next year’s planting. Some 

seeds will have been eaten by birds or otherwise lost. To 

ensure another season of color, reseed with about half as 

much as the original planting in the fall. Note that spring 

seeding for summer annuals will require more moisture 

compared to fall-seeded plants. Perennial species will usually 

continue into the following year. 

Annuals u 129

snapdragon 

calendula 

bachelor’s button 

periwinkle 


Common Name Water, Sun, Plants/Seeds Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season 

Ammi majus 

bishop’s flowers 

Antirrhinum majus 

snapdragon 

Calendula officinalis 

calendula 

Catharanthus roseus 

periwinkle 

vinca 

Centaurea cyanus 

bachelor’s button 

Cheiranthus cheiri 

wallflower 

Chrysanthemum X morifolium 

chrysanthemum 

Seeds 

Fall 

Plants 

Fall 

Plants 

Spring 

Plants 

Spring 

Seeds 

Fall 

Seeds 

Fall 

Plants 

Fall 


This plant is similar in appearance to Queen Anne’s lace, growing to 3 feet high. White flowers bloom in 

summer, set off by finely dissected leaves that have toothed margins. Excellent cut flower. Plant in full sun 

in almost any soil. Easy to start from seed. 

Tall, 1- to 1-1/2-foot “tetra” forms do best when staked early in their life to support stems. Dwarf types 6 to 

18 inches high are ideal for massing and in borders. Colorful cut flowers. Plant mid-October to February. 

Plants bloom well into spring with regular water and monthly fertilizer. 

Flower colors range from bright yellows to deep orange, with best appearance in late winter and early 

spring. Growth is vigorous to 18 inches high. Long-lasting cut flowers. Plants tend to sprawl. Space 15 to 18 

inches apart. 

(Vinca rosea). Profuse flowers from spring into summer, and often into fall. Many flower colors, including 

white, red, pink and magenta. Most selections grow 12 to 15 inches high but smaller forms are available. 

Plant in late spring. Feed with diluted liquid fertilizer monthly. 

Grows to 2 feet high and almost as wide. Blooms from late spring to fall. The foliage is gray-green with blue, 

wine, rose, pink or white flowers at the end of the stems. Accepts full sun to partial shade. Reseeds easily. 

Grows in almost any soil. 

Grows to 2 feet high. Fragrant flowers bloom in shades of yellow and red. Plant in full sun and in soil with 

good drainage. Easy to grow from seed. Wallflower is rarely considered a wildflower but is added to wildflower 

mixes because it does well in meadows, favored for its bright colors. 

This is the garden-variety chrysanthemum, also known as florist’s chrysanthemum. Plants may survive 

for years. They are available in a wide range of flower colors, growing 1 to 1-1/2 feet high. Accepts some 

shade.

indian blanket 

dianthus 

Cosmos 

california poppy 



Clarkia amoena 

farewell-to-spring 

Collinsia heterophylla 

chinese houses 

Cosmos bipinnatus 

cosmos 

Delphinium species 

larkspur 

Dianthus species 

dianthus 

Eschscholzia californica 

california poppy 

Gaillardia pulchella 

indian blanket 

Seeds 

Fall 

Seeds 

Fall 

Seeds 

Fall 

Plants 

Fall 

Plants 

Fall 

Seeds 

Fall 

Seeds 

Spring 

This annual wildflower grows to 2 feet high with slender stems that support cup-shaped flowers in shades 

of pink, lavender or red. Several flowers often bloom on a single flowering stalk. Easy to grow from seed, 

but does not do well in humid climates when temperatures climb above 80°F. 

The name Chinese houses comes from the arrangement of the plant’s flowers, which look like miniature 

pagodas. Violet or white flowers bloom spring to early summer. Will grow to 2 feet high in full sun or partial 

shade. Tolerates most soil conditions. 

Open and airy color plant, with soft fernlike leaves and daisylike flowers in pink, red or white. Plant form is 

informal to 3 to 5 feet high so locate in the back of a natural border. Easy to grow from seed. Plant in moderately 

rich soil in full sun location in fall or early spring. 

A perennial that is treated as annual in the Coachella Valley. Blend one cup of bone meal into planting soil 

before planting. Position plant crown slightly above ground level so it will remain dry. Protect from heavy 

winds and add 4-foot stakes early on to support tall flower stems. 

Treat as an annual in the Coachella Valley. Colors range from white, pink, red, purple and shades between. 

Flowers have a delightful, spicy fragrance; enjoy in bouquets. Best in enriched, well-drained soil. Stake 

early to support tall flower stems. Accepts full sun to partial shade. 

California poppy is the state flower of California. Orange to yellow, cup-shaped flowers bloom on 12- to 18- 

inch stems from spring into early summer. Plants reseed readily. Sow seed where you want plants to grow. 

Does not like soil that is continuously moist or overly rich. 

Often used in western region wildflower seed mixes for its aggressive growth. Plants grow to 1-1/2 to 2 

feet high. Long slender stems are topped with 2-inch red, yellow and gold flowers. Easy to grow from seed. 

Plant in soil with good drainage. Blooms from midsummer to frost. 

Annuals u 131

tidy tips 

Geranium 

sweet pea 

Maximilian Sunflower 



Geranium species 

geranium 

Gilia capitata 

blue thimble flower 

Helianthus maximilianii 

Maximilian Sunflower 

Lasthenia glabrata 

goldfields 

Lathyrus odoratus 

sweet pea 

Layia platyglossa 

tidy tips 

Linaria maroccana 

toadflax 

Plants 

Spring 

Seeds 

Spring 

Seeds 

Spring 

Seeds 

Fall 

Plants 

Fall 

Seeds 

Fall 

Seeds 

Fall 


Geraniums are treated as annuals in low-elevation desert regions and are ideal container color plants. 

Accepts full sun or partial shade but requires well-drained soil. Enjoy the spring flowers then move containers 

into shade as the warm season comes on in late April and May. 

Plants grow to 2 feet high with tall, slender stems. Blue pin-cushion flowers bloom from summer to fall. 

Leaves to 4 inches long are finely dissected, adding a light airy feeling to plants. Accepts full sun to partial 

shade. Easy to grow from seed. Sow in place in early spring. 

A perennial grown as an annual in the Coachella Valley. Tall flower stalks to 6 feet high or more are topped 

with familiar sunflower flowers in fall. Place at back of border due to plant height. Accepts some shade and 

most soil conditions. Birds love the seeds. 

An annual wildflower that grows 6 to 24 inches high. Slender stems are topped with small yellow flowers 

from spring into summer. Excellent for fast temporary cover and color. Often included in western wildflower 

mixes; competes well with grasses. Use for revegetation and stabilization. 

Sweet peas are available in a wide range of colors. Blooms late winter through spring. Dwarf types excel in 

flower borders or in planters. If you start with seeds, soak them in water for several hours before planting. 

Plant in well-prepared soil, and provide supports for plants to climb. 

Wildflower annual with yellow daisylike flowers tipped with white. They are 1 to 2 inches across and showy, 

blooming on plants to 1 foot high. Flowering begins in early spring and can last for several months. Grows 

best in well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. 

An annual wildflower growing 1 to 2 feet high. Flowers in mixed colors look like snapdragons. Blooms 

spring to summer. Grows easily from seed. Prefers light shade. For best show of color, sow seed in large 

quantities. Reseeds to come back the following spring.

texas bluebonnet 

lobelia 

sweet alyssum 

scarlet flax 



Linum grandiflorum 

‘Rubrum’ 

scarlet flax 

Linum perenne 

subsp. lewisii 

blue flax 

Lobelia erinus 

lobelia 

Lobularia maritima 

sweet alyssum 

Lupinus densiflorus 

var. aureus 

golden lupine 

Lupinus texensis 

texas bluebonnet 

Matthiola incana 

stock 

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This annual wildflower grows rapidly 1 to 1-1/2 feet high, producing brilliant, scarlet flowers at ends of tall 

stems. Plant in well-drained soil in fall; it will not tolerate soggy soil during the cool season. Accepts full sun 

to partial shade. Blooms from spring into midsummer. Reseeds readily. 

This annual wildflower produces a breathtaking bouquet of dazzling, sky-blue flowers that have a satiny 

sheen. They open every morning then fade in the afternoon heat. Plants grow to 2 feet high with a light, 

airy, vase shape that allows them to blend well with other wildflowers. 

Popular and dependable border plant or cover for bulbs, grown for late winter and spring bloom. Flowers 

are usually light blue to violet with contrasting throats in white or yellow. Grows 6 to 8 inches high. Plant in 

rich, improved soil. Can reseed with good growing conditions. 

An easy-care annual that is an excellent companion to bright-colored annuals or perennials. Grows 6 to 

8 inches high in white, rose or purple. Easy to grow from seed or set out plants from packs fall to early 

spring. Locate in sun to partial shade. Cold hardy. 

An annual wildflower native to California. Showy, spiked, pealike, golden flowers stand high above the 

leaves, blooming early spring to early summer. Plants grow to 2 feet high. Sow seed in full sun in fall for 

flowers the following spring. Prefers well-drained soil. 

This annual wildflower is the state flower of Texas, and announces spring with sweeping masses of blueplumed 

flowers along roadsides and in meadows. Plants grow 1 to 2 feet high. Germination can be sporadic 

but may be increased by purchasing scarified (scratched) seed. 

A dependable garden annual featuring fragrant flowers in a range of colors. Grows 1-1/2 to 2 feet high with 

an equal spread late winter to early spring. Makes a fine background for smaller 

annuals. Plant in well-drained soil improved with amendments in full sun to partial shade. 

Annuals u 133

owl’s clover 

petunia 

forget-me-not 

california bluebell 



Myosotis sylvatica 

forget-me-not 

Nemophila maculata 

five spot 

Nemophila menziesii 

baby blue eyes 

Orthocarpus purpurascens 

owl’s clover 

Papaver rhoeas 

flanders field poppy 

Petunia hybrids 

petunia 

Phacelia campanularia 

california bluebell 

Phlox drummondii 

Annual phlox 

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This annual produces numerous, small, blue or sometimes pink flowers that bloom in spring. Plants grow 

6 to 15 inches high. Prefers regular moisture and slightly acid to neutral soil. Accepts full sun to light 

shade. Easy to grow from seed. 

Flowers of this wildflower are the same as baby blue eyes, below, but are white with vivid purple spots at 

the tip of each petal. Grows to just 6 inches high, spreading 12 inches or more wide. Accepts most soils, 

including heavy clay or sand. Attractive when planted in drifts. 

This wildflower grows 6 to 10 inches high with delicate, sky blue flowers marked with white spots. Best 

with moderate water in shaded areas. Avoid planting in hot or humid conditions. Start from seed either in 

spring or fall. A prolific bloomer that will reseed itself. 

Reliable wildflower for fast cover and color from early spring into summer. Suited to a natural border or in 

a wildflower mix. Grows to 8 inches high with rose-pink to purple, plumelike flowers that resemble clover. 

Sow seed in early fall in full sun to partial shade location. Reseeds well. 

Large, showy flowers in many bright colors on plants 2 to 4 feet high. Provide light, well-drained soil, 

moderate water in a full sun to partial shade location. Prefers open areas and competes well with grasses. 

Sow seeds in fall or early spring. 

Petunias are the most colorful of all annuals in desert gardens, and are available in a wide range of forms 

and flower colors. Prefers sun but accepts partial shade. Mix pellet-type fertilizer into soil when planting. 

Check soil moisture often; overwatering can lead to disease problems. 

Prolific-blooming wildflower with rich blue, bell-shaped flowers in early spring to early summer. Plants grow 

6 to 18 inches high with lush-looking, dark green, fragrant, heart-shaped leaves. Accepts most soils but 

performs best in rocky soils with good drainage. Reseeds itself. 

Low growing, to 6 to 12 inches. Best planted in a mass or in a color border. Soft flower colors come in 

mostly shades of salmon, pink, yellow and white. Accepts full sun to partial shade. Plants and flowers hold 

up well to late spring and early summer heat. Reseeds well.

zinnia 

Mexican Sunflower 

viola 

marigold 



Primula malacoides 

fairy primrose 

Silene armeria 

catchfly 

Tagetes erecta 

marigold 

Tithonia rotundifolia 

Mexican Sunflower 

Verbena hybrids 

verbena 

Viola cornuta 

viola 

Viola X wittrockiana 

pansy 

Zinnia elegans 

zinnia 

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Spring 

Adds splashes of color in shaded or partially shaded locations. Delicate-textured leaves are pale green, 

oval, to 3 inches long. They grow in rosettes close to ground. Vertical flower stems 8 to 10 inches high 

bloom in spring in shades of white, pink, red and mauve. Best in improved soil. 

Summer-blooming wildflower, when most annual wildflowers are well past their peak. Pink to lavender flowers 

are borne in tight clusters on small bushy plants to 2 feet high. The individual flower petals are deeply 

notched. Accepts full sun to partial shade in almost any soil. 

Valuable summer color plants. Select from a wide range of flower forms in yellows and oranges. Dwarf, 8- 

to 12-inch types are ideal in borders; taller 18-inch varieties look best behind low 

border shrubs. Keep plants growing continuously with regular water and fertilizer. 

Grows up to 6 feet high and to 3 feet wide. Large, orange or yellow sunflower blooms put on a show from 

midsummer until frost. Like Maximillian sunflower, use in back of the border. Attracts hummingbirds and 

swallowtail butterflies. 

Colorful annual border plants, growing from 8 to 12 inches high. Available in a range of flower colors, 

including white, red, pink, blue and purple. After flowering, trim spent blooms for regrowth. Plant in fall to 

enjoy late winter-spring flowers. 

At home as a low, 6- to 9-inch border along walks, in front of mixed plantings and in containers. Flowers 

come in white, blue, yellow and apricot. Does well in sunny to partially shaded locations. Flowers profusely 

until heat arrives in late spring. Accepts temperatures as low as 28°F. 

Reliable annual for winter and spring color. Many selections are available in a wide range of 

flower colors. Grows 6 to 8 inches high. Best in a warm microclimate. Enrich soil with blood 

meal before planting and feed monthly. Cut back plants lightly March to April to renew growth. 

One of the best annuals for summer color. Flowers come in a range of bright colors, and are large—up to 6 

inches across. Dwarf types grow as low as 6 inches; taller types can be as much as 3 feet high. ‘Profusion’ 

series grow 1-1/2 to 2 feet high. Flood-irrigate or use drip irrigation. 

Annuals u 135

u 

c h a p t e r f o u r 

u 

Landscapes & Special 

Gardens 

Mild winters and ample sunshine are trademarks of the Coachella 

Valley, allowing a wide range of plants to be grown successfully. 

In this chapter, you’ll find detailed information on many types 

of gardens and plants, including roses, citrus, fruits, vegetables and lawns. 

You’ll learn how to handle specific kinds of garden situations, such as landscaping 

around pools and patios, creating a wildlife habitat, and how to grow 

plants in containers. In addition, you’ll find a detailed guide to help you give 

your garden an extreme makeover—creating a lush, attractive, water-efficient 

landscape. 

Planning Your Landscape 

It is difficult for the majority of first-time desert residents to develop a plan 

of action for their new landscape. When you consider that they are working 

with unfamiliar plants in growing conditions that seem downright hostile, 

this makes perfect sense! But that is the reason for this book. With careful 

understanding of each plant’s character and mature size, and with some 

thoughtful planning, a pleasing landscape will emerge. No matter what size 

your yard, following some basic guidelines can show you how to plan and 

install a water-conserving landscape you’ll be sure to enjoy. 

First, draw a base plan of your lot that shows the location of home, walks, 

patios and driveway slabs—all areas of hardscape that exist on your lot. 

(These hardscape areas should be in place before beginning any landscaping.) 

In addition to walks and patios, there may be a need to construct walls 

for privacy or as a windbreak. Note these as well. 

On your plan, note items such as utilities and access for trash receptacles. 

Include any landscape plants or existing features that you want to keep. 

Making a scale drawing on graph paper is ideal, but even a sketch of available 

space provides a snapshot of what exists, and a starting point. 

Make several copies of this base plan. Now is the time to try out your ideas. 

Draw in all the different plants and gardens you might like, such as a vegetable 

garden, herb garden, shade trees, fruit trees, vines or even a fountain. 

Above: Consider creating 

a wildlife garden that will 

attract butterflies. This butterfly 

is gulf fritillary. 

Left: Creating a low-water 

landscape that is lush and 

colorful begins with a good 

design, followed by selecting 

adapted plants. 

Landscapes & Special Gardens u 137

Consider functional spaces within your yard as well, 

such as an area for a barbeque grill, seating for entertaining, 

or space for a pool or spa. 

If you are interested in growing vegetables or flowers, 

consider constructing narrow raised beds. Make 

them wide enough to provide a seating ledge—useful 

when planting, weeding and harvesting. 

Consider adding a change of elevation for interest, 

such as natural-shaped earth mounds, a raised planter 

against the back wall, or a dry creek bed to follow a 

slope. All will help set the stage for wildflowers, ground 

covers and accent plants. 

Visit retail nurseries and botanical gardens for ideas 

on the plants you want to include. Choose plants 

for their seasonal color, beauty, hardiness to cold, 

ultimate height and spread and water requirements. 

Research trees carefully, and know how much space 

you have available for their mature height and spread. 

Maintenance requirements, including the amount of litter 

they typically create, are other important aspects. 

Before you even think about digging planting holes, 

mark the locations of major plants with stakes. A garden 

hose or heavy string can be used to outline proposed 

planting beds. Spend some time in the yard to be sure 

that the proposed layout works for you. Go inside and 

look out your windows to imagine how the plants will 

look from that important viewpoint. 

Adequate soil drainage is necessary to avoid areas 

of standing water in the landscape. Make the soil level 

next to hardscape areas 2 inches below grade. 

Plan an irrigation system and layout after you determine 

plant locations. Drip irrigation with automatic 

valves will water plants where and when they need it, 

reducing your water bill. (See pages 26 to 41.) 

Plant properly. See page 16 for step-by-step guidelines. 

Allow correct amount of space between plants 

and hardscapes. Take into account their full mature 

growth even if plantings appear sparse at first. You can 

always add annuals and perennials as temporary filler 

for a year or two until trees and shrubs begin to assert 

themselves. 

Making a Small Landscape 

Less can be more. Even if you live on a small lot with 

limited garden space, it can still be as beautiful and 

enjoyable as a garden in a large lot, with less maintenance 

chores. Many of the same trees, shrubs, vines, 

ground covers, annuals and perennials that grow successfully 

in large-scale gardens are compatible in smaller 

planting locations. Just be sure you take into account 

mature plant sizes as you do your planning. 

Due to the smaller area, gardening solutions must 

This inviting home entry is composed of an attractive combination of water-efficient plants. 

138 u Landscapes & Special Gardens

e more creative. Trees or shrubs that you can espalier—train 

against a wall or fence—provide one option. 

Especially consider the use of vines for getting the most 

out of garden space. They can be trained up fences and 

walls to surround your home with color and cooling 

greenery, taking up little ground area. 

Giving Your Old Landscape a Makeover 

Even if it has only been five years since your landscape 

was installed, many new, beautiful, water-efficient 

shrubs, trees, accent plants, ground covers and bright 

flowering perennials are available in a wide range of 

colors and growth habits. Ornamental grasses, as well, 

are becoming more popular. They, too, are available in 

a range of sizes and colors, their leaves and seedheads 

creating interesting flowing patterns. (See pages 118- 

119.) Vertical accent plants, many of which are succulents, 

add their own brand of new visual impact. See 

Cacti and Succulents, pages 106 to 117, for an array of 

choices. 

If you have a front lawn, consider replacing it with 

interesting, natural-shaped contours and mounds planted 

with water-efficient flowering shrubs, perennials 

and ground covers. Add some boulders, a few accent 

plants, and some low-water flowering perennials. Now 

your once-common, monochromatic green grass yard is 

a visual feast for the eye. And it will use about half the 

water as the lawn. 

You can also choose to retain some lawn, but reduce 

its size. This will cut back on water outlay, as well as 

time spent fertilizing, mowing and otherwise maintaining 

it. 

Bordering lawn with a clean edge can enhance the 

overall appearance of your landscape and give it a 

finished appearance. The contrast of rich green grass 

against light-colored mulch such as decomposed granite 

or soil can be highly attractive. 

Follow the steps outlined in Planning Your Landscape, 

page 137. Doing a makeover of an established landscape 

requires a thorough review of the site. This includes 

noting existing problems, then developing a theme or 

plan—including a budget—before beginning work. 

Include in your calculations how much longer you 

intend to live in your home. If you plan on staying three 

years or more, be more expansive with your makeover. 

If you will be selling your home in less than three years, 

it’s probably more economical to tidy up the landscape, 

get rid of clutter, eliminate glaring problems and maintain 

it to its potential. 

To develop a complete review for a potential makeover, 

it may be worth the services of an experienced 

landscape designer or landscape architect. A profes- 

Low-water and low care: Bright green myoporum ground cover combines with magenta bougainvillea in the background. 


sional can define the scope of work, develop a time 

frame and prepare a budget. 

As part of the makeover, evaluate the worthiness of 

all plants that are on site. Trees especially should be 

carefully reviewed. Are they healthy Is their height and 

spread in proportion to the available space Are limbs 

rubbing against structures, or are roots uplifting walks 

or walls Are they well-adapted to the desert environment 

Consider other plants as well. Have shrubs and 

ground covers become woody Has continual pruning 

all but eliminated flowering Are there any plants on 

site that you simply do not like 

Some Makeover Solutions 

o It is not always wrong to remove a tree, especially if 

it is causing problems. Trees in poor condition, problem 

trees, trees planted in the wrong place, or trees at the 

end of their life span should be removed. 

o Remove worn out evergreen shrubs and replant with 

desert-adapted flowering shrubs and perennials. 

o Upgrade flower beds with small shrubs, also called 

subshrubs, which generally produce more flowers over 

a longer period. Perennials can also take the place of 

annual flowers. They produce colorful flowers and are 

less costly than planting and replanting large beds of 

annuals several times a year. 

o Add in accent plants and low-profile ground covers 

to create a new, fresh look that also reduces water use. 

o Replace or reduce the size of large lawns with graceful, 

flowing plantings of perennials, ornamental grasses 

and accent plants. 

o A well-constructed lawn edging contains the lawn 

and gives definition to lawn and planting beds. Use 

pressure-treated wood or other landscaping timbers for 

edging, or durable edges such as metal, brick or concrete. 

Limiting the lawn perimeter and avoiding small, 

narrow or oddly shaped sections will make it easier to 

irrigate and maintain. 

o Artificial turf has improved in appearance and longevity 

in recent years. It can be an option to provide a 

splash of green color to a back yard. 

o Give your irrigation system a makeover. Replace 

old irrigation watering heads with more water-conserving 

equipment. Most PVC pipe irrigations systems 

can easily be converted to water-saving drip systems. 

Irrigation, including how to upgrade and maintain an 

existing system, is discussed on pages 30 to 41. 

Landscaping Near Pools and Patios 

The areas around pools and patios are some of the 

most difficult places to landscape attractively and for 

low maintenance. From a plant’s point of view, such 

locations can be less than ideal for growth. Pools add 

reflected light and hot concrete decking to the already 

high heat. Chlorine in pool water may splash on plants, 

Boulders combine with brightly colored bougainvillea (center), MurphyÕs agave (left), and yellow-flowering aloe 


Palms are ideal plants near pools. They create a tropical 

mood and are generally litter-free. 

injuring or killing them. 

Patios are difficult because a portion of the earth for 

plant roots is covered by a large, non-porous surface. 

But there are still ample plants available for these sites, 

especially if you follow a few guidelines. 

To avoid constant problems with sweeping, raking 

and cleaning, select and plant low-litter plants. All 

plants will produce some amount of litter, but some 

plants are messier than others. The descriptions in 

Plants for Desert Success often lists whether a plant is 

high or low on the litter scale. 

Swimming Pools 

The landscape around a pool becomes more appealing 

when you use plants that are dramatic in form, texture 

or color. Avoid using plants with thorns, as well as 

those that produce high litter. 

Palms are among the most favored trees for around 

pools. Consider trying some newer selections, such as 

Brahea armata, Mexican blue palm, or Brahea edulis, 

Guadalupe Island palm. Both are slow growing and 

typically remain under 20 feet high. 

Tried and true is Washingtonia filifera, California 

fan palm. It grows slowly to 35 to 40 feet, with a massive 

trunk up to 3-1/2 feet in diameter. Washingtonia 

robusta, Mexican fan palm, has a slender, 18-inch trunk 

that can reach 50 to 75 feet high. This height makes it 

a skyline tree and should only be used in large-scale 

gardens. 

For smaller gardens and for close-up viewing, consider 

Chamaerops humilis, Mediterranean fan palm. 

It is typically multi-trunked growing 8 to 12 feet high. 

Growth is slow. Welcome the pups, offshoot plants, 

that fill in around the base. Leave them on the palm to 

encourage growth to develop more vertically. This palm 

A poolside planter features colorful annuals with upright 

rosemary as a living centerpiece. 

is also excellent when grown in containers. 

Although palms are popular, there are a number 

of other evergreen trees and shrubs that are attractive 

around pools. Consider Acacia aneura or Acacia 

craspedocarpa, two low-litter species from Australia. 

Acacia willardiana, palo blanco, is native to Mexico. 

It will accept reflected sunlight and heat near pools 

and adds a graceful, weeping-willow-like feel, as does 

Callistemon viminalis, weeping bottle-brush. Olneya 

tesota, desert ironwood, Sophora secundiflora, Texas 

mountain laurel, and Pistacia lentiscus, evergreen 

pistachio, are additional trees to consider for poolside 

plantings. 

In planting areas near a pool, it becomes both functional 

and visually appealing to use creeping ground 

covers. Select species that root along the branches, 

which helps stabilize the soil to keep it from blowing 

into the pool. Include some taller accent plants to partner 

with the ground cover to create more interest. Add a 

few boulders or statuary to complete the scene. 

Especially attractive ground covers for poolside 

landscapes include Chrysactinia mexicana, damianita, 

Convolvulus cneorum, silver bush morning glory, 

Oenothera stubbeii, Saltillo primrose, Ruellia brittoniana 

‘Katie,’ dwarf ruellia, and the creeping evergreen 

herbs, Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’, prostrate 

rosemary, and Teucrium chamaedrys ‘Prostratum’, 

prostrate germander. 

Many lush, flowing ornamental grasses are at home 

around pools, especially as a backdrop. Consider 

Muhlenbergia species, which are attractive almost yearround, 

and are low-litter plants. 

High-litter plants to avoid include oleander, bougainvillea, 

pyracantha, eucalyptus, ash, pines, privet, 

mesquite and palo verde. If you want to include these 


plants for shade, screening, or other functions, try to 

place them 25 to 35 feet away, ideally on the downwind 

side of the pool. 

For a final touch, install night lighting on palms and 

bold accent plants to enhance the pool landscape. The 

play of light reflections on plants and water add to the 

beauty of the scene. 

Patios 

A patio can be a wonderful place to sit and enjoy your 

yard. There is nothing comparable to relaxing on your 

own patio with a morning beverage and the paper, with 

birds singing in the colorful shrubs around you. Come 

back to the patio in the evening and enjoy the company 

of friends as you grill some steaks for dinner. The patio 

should be designed so that it is another room of your 

home. 

Creating intimacy in a large or small patio merits 

close attention to detail when selecting and placing 

plants. A patio area provides an opportunity to become 

your private mini-oasis. In general, you want to select 

plants that have colors and textures that are appealing 

when viewed up close. 

Flowering vines, espaliered plants and fragrant color 

plants in containers add special interest at the edges of 

the patio area. If the rest of your garden is low maintenance, 

these are prime locations to showcase plants that 

you enjoy the most: a small herb garden, vegetables in 

containers, or special tropical or subtropical plants. 

Beds at the edges of the patio can be filled with flowering 

perennials or annuals to add their bright, gem-like 

effects. Also consider bonsai plants for their up-close 

appeal. While you want planting beds near the patio, 

where you can most enjoy them, you also want sufficient 

space for walkways and paths to reach other parts 

of the yard. Also factor in easy access to other features, 

such as table and chairs, grill, pool or spa. 

Water Features—Pools and Fountains 

The cooling sight and relaxing sound of water simply 

can not be surpassed as a finishing touch to a landscape. 

This is especially true in a desert climate, where water 

is precious. And if you enjoy statuary, you can include 

some in even the smallest garden as part of a water 

feature. 

Water features can be formal, such as a Spanish-style 

fountain, or informal, like a natural-appearing waterfall 

and pool. Select the style that blends the best with the 

rest of your landscape. 

The style of water feature (formal or informal) dictates 

the type of plants placed around it. A formal feature 

should be landscaped with plants that remain tidy 

with little care, such as junipers or myoporum. 

For an informal water feature, surround with freeform 

plants. Vertical forms can provide accents among 

rock groupings near your water feature. Larger plants 

include Muhlenbergia lindheimeri, Lindheimer muhley; 

Hesperaloe parviflora, red hesperaloe; Dietes vegeta, 

butterfly iris; and Dasylirion longissimum, toothless 

sotol. Smaller plants include Nassella tenuissima, 

Mexican thread grass; Zephyranthes species, rain lilies; 

and Bulbine frutescens, bulbine. 

For fillers in the background, try the fascinating gray 

foliage of Buddleia marrubifolia, woolly butterfly bush, 

combined with the silvery gray foliage of Encelia farinosa, 

brittlebush. Offset these with the brilliant green 

foliage and bright flowers of Salvia greggii, autumn 

sage. All are sun-loving and water-efficient, and blend 

well with other desert plants. 

Not to be forgotten are cacti and other succulents. 

They can be tucked in many places in the landscape. 

Smaller species can be used among rocks and boulders 

to provide miniature desert scenes for close-up viewing. 

Larger ones can be placed farther away for charming 

accents. 

Small Lawns for Landscapes 

Reducing an existing lawn area or making new lawns 

smaller than typical in the past helps curtail water use. 

Yet even a small lawn provides an important surface for 

play and visual relief from the earth tones of the desert. 

If you do have a lawn or are planning one for a new 

landscape, ask your nursery or sod grower about the 

current crop of water-conserving lawngrasses and how 

to water and maintain them. 

In the Coachella Valley, the most easily grown grasses 

are the permanent, warm-season Bermudagrasses. 

They are seeded—common Bermuda only, or sodded— 

hybrids, such as the ‘Tif’ series. Hybrid Bermudagrass 

provides a close-knit carpet that wears well. Its seed is 

sterile, so it must be planted from sod or stolons. Some 

hybrid varieties are slow growing so less frequent mowing 

is required. 

Hybrids are fast becoming the favorites, due to their 

finer texture and richer color. Indeed, some communities 

do not permit common Bermudagrass plantings due 

to its multiple problems. Common Bermudagrass readily 

goes to flower, producing highly allergenic pollen. It 

also reseeds, and is an aggressive spreader, becoming a 

weedy, invasive nuisance in other plantings. Color and 

texture are not as attractive. Hybrid Bermudagrass is 

highly preferable. 

Many types of grasses have been tested, but, to date, 

few show much promise. Buffalograss from Texas and 

northern Mexico may have the potential to be a high- 


quality, warm-season turf with better winter color than 

Bermudagrass, eliminating the need for overseeding in 

winter. However, it is not yet commonly available. 

Overseeding a Winter-Dormant Lawn 

Bermudagrass is a warm-season grass that becomes 

dormant with cold temperatures. It turns a straw 

color, but most folks prefer a green lawn. Our choices 

for green lawn in winter then become cool-season 

grasses. Sowing cool-season grass seed over a dormant 

Bermudagrass lawn, called overseeding, allows the gardener 

to have a green, thriving lawn all year-round. 

One of the main gardening chores in the low desert is 

the annual exercise of overseeding Bermuda lawns with 

ryegrass. Thousands of acres of lawns in parks, on golf 

courses and around homes go through this ritual each 

fall—when soil temperatures are 72°F to 78°F. This 

usually occurs October 1 to October 15. During this 

time annuals, perennials and bulbs are also planted for 

winter and spring color. 

Annual ryegrass and perennial ryegrass are the most 

common cool-season grasses used for overseeding. 

Annual rye grows rapidly, however, its ample growth 

demands more frequent mowing. Annual ryegrass 

leaves tend to be weaker and a lighter green color. It is 

less expensive than perennial rye. Perennial rye grass 

has greater vigor and develops more sturdy, spreading 

growth. Germination period for both types is generally 

3 to 10 days, depending on moisture coverage. 

Other grasses such as rough-stalked bluegrass and 

bentgrass are used on golf greens for putting surfaces. 

These fine-bladed grasses require much more maintenance 

than the rye grasses. Ask your cooperative extension 

or local nursery about the finer points of selecting a 

grass that will work best for your lawn situation. 

Container Gardening 

Container plants on your desert patio, at the entrance 

to your home or around the pool can play a personal or 

even sentimental role. In these areas you can showcase 

your favorite plants, and enjoy them at close range. 

These include plants that offer interesting structure such 

as bonsai plants, as well as colorful annuals, bulbs and 

fragrant flowering perennials or even shrubs. 

The portable container garden can move with you 

from one home to another, and, if placed on casters, 

containers can be moved according to the weather or the 

season. Move them out of the range of extremes in cold 

weather in winter, or to a shaded location as the heat and 

sun intensity increases in the summer. 

Containers are a wonderful way to enjoy a diversity 

of plants even if you live in a small lot. Large containers 

Bordering a lawn with a clean edge can enhance your landscape, giving it a finished appearance. This lawn is small 

and requires much less water and care than a traditional wall-to-wall lawn, yet it still provides cool, green relief. 


can function as a screen or as a way to divide a garden 

or outdoor area. Containers are also a good way to raise 

plants to a height that is easier to work with, especially 

helpful for folks that have trouble bending and crouching. 

When it comes to vegetable gardening in containers, 

the dreaded chore of weeding is dramatically 

reduced. Plus many vegetable plants have an attractive, 

ornamental quality that you can be showcased in a 

container. 

Where you place your containers is entirely dependent 

on the need of sun or shade for each plant. If 

containers are mobile, you can move them as needed 

to protect plants from frost, wind, reflected heat and 

intense sunlight. 

Container Choices 

Select containers that are best adapted to deal with 

problems associated with our desert heat. 

Containers can be porous, which allows evaporation 

of moisture through the sides. Porous materials include 

unglazed clay, terra cotta or wood. Care must be taken 

that these types do not lose moisture too rapidly during 

warm periods of the year. However, if you water plants 

regularly, porous containers are more forgiving than 

non-porous ones. 

Non-porous containers include those made of porcelain, 

glazed ceramic and plastic. They allow less 

evaporation through the sides. It is easier to overwater 

these types of containers because evaporation of water 

is reduced. All containers must have a drainage hole 

or you run the risk of killing the plant with constantly 

saturated soil, which greatly reduces oxygen. 

Soil for Containers 

Most container plants are generally forgiving when it 

comes to soils. A quality, general-purpose soil mix is 

one-third ground bark, peat moss, or composted planter 

mix, one-third coarse sand, and one-third garden soil. 

Blend all three into a loose, friable mixture and moisten 

before you plant. Many brands of packaged mixes are 

available at nurseries and garden centers. 

Succulents, particularly cacti, need good drainage 

and generally less acidic soil. Use a mixture of one-third 

garden soil, one-third porous matter such as perlite or 

vermiculite, and one-third sand. 

Despite what many of us were taught years ago, new 

research shows that it is detrimental to plants to put anything 

other than soil into pots. Do not put stones, gravel, 

pots shards or anything in the bottom—it actually harms 

drainage. If you feel you must cover the drainage hole, 

use a piece of old window screen or nylon stocking. 

Leave space at the top of the container—one to three 

inches—depending on the size of the container and 

plant type. This allows room for each watering. With 

The portable container garden can move with you from one home to another. These containers are filled with 

colorful annuals and perennials, including white sweet alyssum, pansies and foxtail fern, Asparagus ÔMyersÕ. 


This demonstration garden shows a simple, yet effective method of using 

drip irrigation to water container plants. 

Red yucca, Hesperaloe parvifolia, 

makes a dramatic, container speci- 

each irrigation, water should flow through the soil mix 

on new plants as well as saturating the root ball of 

established plants. 

If water is flowing out of the container bottom too 

rapidly, there may be soil shrinkage due to excessive 

root growth. Water is not penetrating the rootball, but 

merely moving around and down the sides of the container, 

doing the plant little good. When this occurs, it’s 

time to replant with fresh soil in a larger container. 

Top-dressing the container soil is an option. Topdressing 

is any inert material in a 1- to 2-inch layer over 

the soil in pots. Pea gravel, small lava rock or smooth 

stones are topdressing materials. It reduces evaporation, 

prevents crusting of the soil, reduces water splash and 

improves appearance. 

Fertilizer must be furnished more frequently for plants 

in containers than for those in the ground. Measure and 

apply carefully according to label directions. Liquid 

types of organic fertilizers work best. Moisten soil prior 

to application and water it in. Don’t overdo fertilizer 

thinking “a little more” will help. Overfertilizing kills 

plants. For cacti and succulents, use fertilizer at half 

strength. 

Container Plants 

Containers can be used to house a single plant, or 

become a miniature garden with a number of different 

plants. Ideally you should match colors and shapes of 

pots to the plants you place in the container. 

For a pleasing blend of plants, the adage is “accent, 

filler, and spiller.” There should be an upright accent 

plant in the center, filler around it, and a spiller cascading 

over the edge. This can be done with any plants 

that share the same water requirements. Use succulents, 

perennials, annuals, bulbs or an enticing blend of vegetables 

and herbs. 

Containers are the most effective way to enjoy certain 

plants that are otherwise not candidates for growing in 

the desert. For example, some plants require acid soils 

and do not adapt well to treated soils. These include 

camellias, gardenias and azaleas. They generally do better 

in porous pots that evaporate through the sides. 

Containers are also ideal for some species of bulbs 

that are unable to survive hot soils, including Dutch 

tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths. Note that the Turkish 

tulips do fine in the desert garden. 

Succulents, including cacti, are a special part of 

the desert landscape. The majority are highly adapted 

to container culture. Most have fascinating shapes, 

textures and colors, making them ideal to collect and 

showcase in containers. 

Vegetable Gardens 

The Coachella Valley offers a wonderful climate for 

growing vegetables and fruits. Indeed, fruits and vegetables 

are grown commercially in the valley and 

shipped throughout the world. Growing conditions for 

vegetables are most favorable during fall, winter and 

into spring. Summer vegetables are more difficult to 

grow, but with the right heat-loving varieties and proper 

cultural practices, gardeners can be successful. 

If you are a new gardener or new to the desert, it is 

best to begin with a fall garden. Gardening in fall is 

more forgiving without the extreme summer heat, and 

you’re more likely to enjoy harvests that will be tasty 

and abundant. Keep in mind that even winter-grown 

gardens need irrigation on a regular basis. 

Ideally, plan on succession planting your garden 


Winter vegetable gardensÑcool-season cropsÑare usually more successful than summer gardens because plants 

avoid intense heat. This planting of assorted lettuce varieties is not only bountiful but highly attractive. 

vegetables. This means sowing new seeds or setting out 

young plants every three weeks or so, not all at once. 

This will stagger and extend harvest times and avoid 

having an overabundance of produce all at one time. 

It is possible to grow many vegetables in a small plot, 

in containers, in borders or along a wall or fence. Select 

an exposure where vegetables will receive at least six 

hours of sun every day. 

Prepare soil well in advance of planting. Remove 

rocks, weeds and debris, then grade to create a smooth, 

level, ready-to-plant bed. Moisten soil to about 2 feet 

deep. Add ample organic material such as compost or 

forest mulch and mix thoroughly. Or, consider a raised 

bed garden surrounded by a low wall. You can sit and 

work in the garden, making it easier to plant, irrigate, 

thin seedlings, remove weeds and harvest crops. 

When sowing seeds directly into the garden, be aware 

that each seed has a preferred planting depth. You’ll find 

directions on seed packets. Don’t plant too deep. 

After planting seeds, tamp the soil firmly. Water seeds 

to remove air spaces in the soil. Use a fine-mist sprinkler 

or hose attachment to avoid disturbing or washing out 

seeds. Continue to sprinkle soil lightly on a regular basis 

until seeds germinate and seedlings produce three or four 

leaves. Now begin watering with a soaker hose or irrigation 

system. Check the soil for moisture several times a 

week. Dig down at least 6 inches deep and feel if the soil 

is moist. Be consistent with watering. A dry period can 

slow down or interrupt the growth process, which will 

likely reduce the amount and quality of harvests. 

Planting a Winter Garden 

The time to begin planting a winter garden is mid- 

September. The soil is warm and cooler temperatures 

that are soon to come are ideal for growing green leafy 

vegetables and root crops such as beets, carrots, endive, 

leeks, lettuce, green onions, radishes, spinach, turnips, 

broccoli, bok choy, pak choy, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, 

chard, mustard and peas. This is also the time to grow 

cool-season garden herbs such as cilantro, chives, parsley, 

dill and fennel. 

Planting a Summer Garden 

Beginning in early February, you can plant many of the 

warm-season crops—onions, garlic, potatoes, tomatoes, 

sweet corn, squash, gourds, eggplant, sweet or bell peppers, 

chili peppers and melons. The prime summer herb 

is basil. Many summer vegetables are handsome plants, 

and can be mixed into flowerbeds. 

Plant seeds or set out young tomato, pepper and 


eggplants after all danger of frost has passed. In the 

Coachella Valley the average dates for the last frost can 

range from late January to early March, but the official 

date is March 1. Seedlings and plants in 4-inch pots 

are usually available at local nurseries during this time, 

ready to plant. A word of caution: don’t set out a large 

number of plants. Just a few plants of most vegetables 

will produce enough harvests for the average home. 

Because intense heat is coming all too soon, plant 

varieties that are early maturing and heat tolerant. Native 

varieties of crops, rather than hybrids, often do better. 

A number of seed companies are now providing desertadapted 

varieties of common vegetables. 

Fruits—Trees and More 

A wide variety of fruit- and nut-producing plants grow 

well in our desert, and can be done without an extensive 

orchard. Many landscape trees, shrubs or vines will 

also provide you with delicious harvests. Select from 

apricot, citrus, date, elderberry, fig, grape, olive, peach, 

pear, pecan, persimmon, pistachio, plum, pomegranate 

and exotic tropicals such as guava, pineapple guava, 

natal plum, loquat (Japanese medlar), and jaboticaba. 

(Avocado is tropical as well but may not survive our 

periodic freezes.) A number of native plants provide 

edible fruit, including prickly pear, cholla, squawberry, 

wolfberry, saguaro and velvet mesquite, the pods which 

can be ground into a sweet flour. 

Deciduous Fruit Trees 

Deciduous trees, those in which leaves drop from 

branches in winter, are often placed in the background of 

the landscape. Although it is an excellent energy-saving 

practice to locate deciduous trees along a south-facing 

wall for summer cooling of the home, only do so with 

figs and pomegranate from the list following. 

Figs—Silvery gray bark and lush green leaves place 

figs at the top of the list for an oasis landscape. If your 

landscape space is limited, figs can be espaliered. There 

are ten commonly grown varieties of figs, and all do 

well in the Coachella Valley. Selection then becomes a 

matter of taste. 

‘Mission’ is the most dependable, all-around fig, 

typically producing two crops per year. Fruit has black 

skin. Use fresh, dried or preserved. ‘Kadota’ has yellow 

skin and amber pulp. Fruit is good when dried. ‘Brown 

Turkey’ is best eaten fresh. 

Peaches and Nectarines—Select from low-chill varieties 

of peaches such as ‘Blazing Gold’, ‘Gold Dust’, 

‘Desert Gold’ and ‘Babcock.’ They ripen early and produce 

reasonable crops. Also consider ‘Party News Four 

Stars,’ which produces in mid-season. Dwarf ‘Bonanza 

Peach’ eventually reaches 6 feet high. Its mature size is 

suited to border areas, or even grow it in a large container. 

Old favorites such as ‘Elberta’, or ‘J. H. Hale’ are 

not adapted to our low desert climate. 

Nectarine varieties with low-chilling requirements 

include early fruiting ‘Desert Dawn’, ‘Gold Mine’ and 

‘Sunred’. 

For all peaches and nectarines, prune to remove two 

out of every three branches formed the previous year to 

create new fruiting wood and improved harvests. 

Pomegranates—A succulent fruit from ancient times, 

pomegranates have been grown in low-elevation deserts 

for many millennia. They tolerate alkaline soils well, 

and add year-round interest to the landscape. (See page 

64.) Spring brings large, vivid red flowers, followed by 

ruby red fruit against brilliant green foliage. Fall foliage 

is golden yellow, and in winter, the bare branches and 

trunks show off their smooth, silver-gray bark. 

Full sun is important. Bare-root trees can be planted 

in December, January and February. Container-grown 

plants can be set out any time, with fall the best period. 

Regular deep irrigation is required for crop production. 

Selectively prune one-third of the previous year’s 

growth each winter or trees become too twiggy. 

‘Wonderful’ is an improved selection generally grown 

as a large shrub to 10 feet high and as wide. 

Citrus 

Citrus trees are abundant in their offerings to desert 

gardeners, with lush evergreen foliage, fragrant flowers 

Pomegranate is a Òtriple-treatÓ plant. It is attractive in 

the landscape, and produces striking, bright red flowers 

that are followed by its tasty fruit. 


and decorative, tasty fruit. High heat required by most 

citrus is easily met in the Coachella Valley. Full flavor 

and juiciness develop better here than almost anywhere. 

Planting New Trees 

Citrus plants need deep, well-drained soil. In frost-free 

areas they can be planted any time. In colder parts of the 

valley, wait to plant in spring after danger of frost has 

passed (March 15). 

When planting more than one tree in an average-sized 

garden, space grapefruit 20 feet apart; most other citrus 

15 feet apart. Plant in the warmest location available—in 

full sun or with some afternoon shade. 

Irrigating Newly Planted Citrus—Build a basin around 

newly planted plants at least 4 feet in diameter with sides 

about 6 inches high. For March-planted trees, fill basin 

and soak soil to 2 feet deep at least twice a week from 

March to May. Soak to 3 feet deep about twice a week 

June through September. Extend watering frequency to 

every 10 to 12 days during winter months. By March the 

tree can be considered established and can be irrigated 

as a mature tree. 

Irrigating Mature Citrus—After trees are established, 

maintain a dry area about 12 inches in diameter area 

around the base of the trunk. Slightly raise the soil level 

so that the basin tapers down and away from the trunk, 

preventing water from coming in regular contact with 

the trunk. This reduces the chance of gummosis, a disease 

that can kill plants. Continue to extend the edges of 

the basin as the tree grows. As a guide, make the basin 

slightly wider than the spread of branches. 

Irrigation depth for citrus is ideally 3 to 4 feet, allowing 

the soil to become mostly dry prior to watering 

again. In sandy soils, water trees every 10 to 14 days 

from March through May. Water once a week from June 

through September. Water every two to three weeks from 

October through February. Water less often in heavier 

clay soils. 

If in doubt about how much and when to water, check 

the soil for moisture. It is simple to check irrigation 

depth with a soil probe. This is a long, metal rod (purchased 

or handmade) that can be pushed into the soil. It 

penetrates as deeply as the moisture, stopping when it 

reaches dry soil. 

Mulch materials—bark, planter mix, even rocks and 

gravel, to name a few, should be applied over the basin 

area to keep roots cool, reduce water loss through evaporation 

and to suppress weed growth. A 3-inch layer of 

mulch will keep roots 8°F to 10°F cooler. This also helps 

reduce digging or cultivating, which will disturb surface 

roots. Keep mulch away from trunk to reduce chance of 

gummosis disease. 

If citrus are growing in a lawn, keep grass from growing 

beneath the tree’s canopy. Create a basin, cover with 

mulch and water deeply, as recommended above. Try to 

avoid having spray from lawn sprinklers hitting trees. 

ÔValenciaÕ orange is one of the easiest citrus to grow. 

It is primarily used as a juice orange. 

Grapefruit are good citrus choices for the Coachella 

Valley. This is ÔRio RedÕ. 


Fertilizing Citrus 

Make the first application of a complete citrus fertilizer 

in February to help set blossoms. Follow with one application 

per month until September. At the least, remember 

to fertilize on these holidays: Easter, Memorial Day, 

and Labor Day. Apply fertilizer according to product 

label directions. Dissolve in water or spread dry fertilizer 

evenly across the watering basin, and water thoroughly 

after applying. 

Pruning Citrus 

Remove all dead wood, crossed limbs and control haphazard 

growth. Pull off suckers rather than pruning them 

to reduce the chance that they’ll regrow. Low-hanging 

branches around the perimeter of the tree should not be 

removed. They help the tree shade itself, preventing sunburn 

of the bark. If the tree is pruned so that the trunk is 

exposed, whitewash or wrap the trunk to protect it. 

Lemons often require more pruning than other citrus 

due to their rapid and sometimes rampant growth. Heavy 

pruning may reduce the number of lemons produced, but 

it may improve the size and quality of fruit. Lemon trees 

may be pruned to fit the available garden space or kept at 

8 to 12 feet high to make it easier to harvest the fruit. 

Sun Protection 

This is only necessary if trees are pruned too much. To 

avoid sunburned trunks, wrap with tree wraps or paint 

trunk with white latex paint diluted with water (50:50 

solution). 

Fruit Drop 

Some immature fruit can be expected to drop after blossoms 

fall and until fruit becomes 1/2-inch in diameter. 

Excess fruit drop can be caused by lack of moisture or 

fertilizer, overfertilization, excessive pruning, sudden 

change in temperature, freezing, poor soil drainage and 

insect pests. Avoid these by careful irrigation, prune 

carefully, control pests and fertilize on schedule. (See 

Month-by-Month Gardening in the Coachella Valley, 

pages 21 to 25.) 

Frost Damage 

Prune a frost-damaged tree only after new growth 

develops. Following a severe freeze, die-back may continue 

into late spring and summer. If the tree is heavily 

damaged, remove the fruit. Water only enough to meet 

the needs of the tree. Fertilize frost-damaged trees less 

heavily than healthy trees. 

Harvesting Citrus Fruit 

Fully ripe citrus will drop into your hand when the stem 

A dry creek bed can be used to reduce turf areas, provide an avenue for drainage and create a setting for a natural 


is twisted lightly. If you have to tug, the fruit is not yet 

ripe. If you must, remove fruit by cutting the stem. 

Most citrus fruit can be left on the tree for long periods—some 

for several months. The rind must not be cut 

or split if the fruit is to be stored. Harvested fruit keeps 

best at 60°F, or at room temperature out of direct light. If 

stored in a frost-free refrigerator, plastic reduces withering. 

Frost-damaged fruit feels hard to the touch and the 

segments inside are often dry and mealy. 

Pest and Disease Control 

The average homeowner, even with several citrus trees, 

will not be much bothered by pests. Encourage insect-eating 

birds (see Creating a Wildlife Habitat, following) and 

you may never see a pest outbreak. 

Monitor trees for severe infestations of aphids, thrips, 

scale and whiteflies. If seen in high numbers, you can treat 

with insecticides. If ripe fruit is on the tree, harvest enough 

for eating to last at least three weeks before applying any 

insecticide. A second application may be necessary three 

weeks later. Most important, use only products labeled for 

use on citrus, and follow all product label directions. 

Gummosis is a bark disease, evidenced by scaly bark 

and sap flow, most often seen at the base of the tree. 

It develops after bark is sunburned, in poorly drained 

soils, or when wet soil remains in contact with the bark. 

Treat affected trunks by removing scaly bark and rinsing 

the area with one teaspoon of potassium permanganate 

diluted in one pint of water. Keep soil and moisture away 

from the wound. 

Chlorosis can be seen when leaf veins remain a dark 

green and the rest of the leaf turns a pale yellow. It is a 

good indication the plant is not able to absorb the iron it 

needs. This can be treated by acidifying the soil beneath 

the tree with used coffee grounds, or 1 cup vinegar to 

5 gallons water. Ideally, address the problem by adding 

organic mulch. You can also add compost to the soil, but 

dig up only one sixth of the root zone at a time. In sandy 

soils, iron may actually be lacking, in which case add 

iron chelate. A chlorotic condition also can be caused by 

excessive irrigation, which leaches away fertilizer and 

other nutrients. 

Adding a Dry Creek to your Landscape 

Many landscapes, large or small, benefit from the visual 

interest of a unique landscape feature—a dry creek bed. A 

dry creek bed identifies the landscape as truly southwest, 

simulating the arroyos of our local foothills. 

This feature has the added benefit of reducing or eliminating 

lawn areas, provides a means for drainage and creates 

the backbone and setting of a natural habitat. Properly 

placed flowering accent plants, small shrubs, ground 

covers and wildflowers complement natural placement of 

pebbles, rocks and boulders. 

Begin by creating a meandering swale 1-1/2 to 2 feet 

deep and 3 to 5 feet wide. Line the bottom and sides with 

3- to 6-inch stones bolstered with clusters of 2- to 3-foot 

diameter boulders along edges. Bury rocks and boulders 

one-quarter to one-third of their depth for a more natural 

effect. 

Natural areas such as this, with perennials and wildflowers, 

complement other plantings, and provide color 

for long periods. Native plants to enhance the feature 

could include ground covers such as Calylophus hartwegii, 

calylophus; Dalea greggii, trailing indigo bush; or 

Wedelia trilobata, yellow dot. 

Add some color and varying height with flowers such 

as Penstemon species, penstemon; Baileya multiradiata, 

desert marigold; Hymenoxys acaulis, angelita daisy; 

Sphaeralcea ambigua, globe mallow; and Rudbeckia 

columnaris, Mexican hat. 

Small shrubs such as Calliandra eriophylla, fairy 

duster; Cleome isomeris, bladderpod; Hyptis emoryi, desert 

lavender, and Ericameria laricifolia, turpentine bush; 

work well together, for both their foliage and seasonal 

flower color. 

An added bonus is that many of these plants re-seed 

readily, reinforcing the natural appearance. The boulders 

and stones provide plenty of nooks and crannies to 

encourage seeds to germinate. 

In a mature garden, a dry creek bed can help the landscape 

“flow together,” stimulating and creating a new, 

exciting look. 

Creating a Wildlife Habitat 

Every living thing needs water, food and shelter. If you 

provide these in your landscape, wildlife are sure to come. 

No matter how distant our urban areas are removed from 

nature, a surprising selection of creatures will discover 

your wildlife habitat. It is then that you will discover the 

magic and mysteries of nature so rich in our desert land. 

Your entire landscape can become a welcoming place for 

birds, butterflies and native animals. With proper selection 

of plants you can enjoy a lush, low-water oasis, wildlife 

and year-round color. 

If you are unsure of how to begin, start small in a corner 

of your landscape, then expand as you begin to see what 

works and doesn’t work. Include as many plants as possible 

that are native to the desert. Locate habitat in a quiet 

part of the garden where trees and plants can grow as they 

will. Unpruned or lightly pruned forms will provide the 

food and shelter wildlife seek. Plants that grow naturally, 

with branches reaching to the ground, are preferred. Their 

density creates safe places for hiding, resting and nesting. 


Water is a necessary element in a wildlife habitat. A 

water source can be as simple as a dripping faucet, a small, 

shallow fountain or a shallow water dish, such as a large 

decorative plant saucer. 

Plants can provide food for wildlife without our even 

noticing it. Nectar, seeds, fruits, and larval food for butterflies 

are all important in the wildlife garden. Plants also 

nurture numerous different species of insects that are not 

pests, yet are important food sources for many species of 

birds. For example, hummingbirds require insect protein 

to lay eggs and raise their young. Also their tiny nests will 

fall apart without ample spider webbing in the construction. 

Wildflowers and perennials with deep-throated, brightly 

colored flowers full of nectar are essential to attract hummingbirds 

and butterflies. Ground covers such as lantana 

and verbena are loved by butterflies. Flowers and grasses 

that produce seeds become dependable food sources for 

seed-eating birds such as quail, dove and lesser goldfinch. 

A bird feeder or two may be fine to interest small birds, 

but avoid broadcasting great quantities of seed or grain 

on the ground. This often merely attracts larger birds and 

pigeons, which can stress the habitat and bird population. 

It may also attract undesirable rodents and the snakes that 

prey on them. 

As the garden ages, the gradually enriching soil becomes 

an ideal home for earthworms, lizards and other soilrelated 

animals and insects. They help develop a balanced 

food cycle for all the residents. And when you create the 

right environment, roadrunners, quail, thrashers, and other 

native birds help keep snails, slugs and other pests under 

control. 

The list on this page provides just a sampling of arid 

land plants to help create your wildlife habitat. Also note 

plants as you read through Success with Desert Plants, 

pages 43 to 135. 

Plants for Wildlife Habitats 

in the Coachella Valley 

trees for shade and resting 

Acacia berlandieri, Guajillo 

Cercidium floridum, Blue Palo Verde 

Chilopsis linearis, Desert Willow 

Lysiloma watsonii var. thornberi, Feather Tree 

Olneya tesota, Desert Ironwood 

Prosopis velutina, Velvet Mesquite 

Vitex agnus-castus, Chaste Tree 

shrubs for nectar, seed and shelter 

Anisacanthus species, Desert Honeysuckle 

Atriplex canescens, Fourwing Saltbush 

Buddleia marrubifolia, Woolly Butterfly Bush 

Cleome isomeris, Bladderpod 

Calliandra species, Fairy Duster 

Encelia farinosa, Brittle Bush 

Justicia species, Chuparosa and Shrimp Plant 

Punica granatum, Pomegranate 

flowers for seed, nectar 

Aquilegia species, Columbine 

Baileya multiradiata, Desert Marigold 

Dalea species, Dalea (ground cover forms) 

Lantana species, Lantana (ground cover forms) 

Penstemon species, Penstemon, Bearded Tongue 

Salvia species, Sage 

Zauschneria californica, Hummingbird Trumpet 

Zinnia acerosa, Desert Zinnia 

vines for food and nectar 

Campsis radicans, Trumpet flower 

Passiflora species, Passionflower 

Rosa banksiae, Lady Banks Rose 

Tecomaria capensis, Cape Honeysuckle 

cacti and succulents for nectar and seed 

Aloe species, Aloes 

Asclepias linaria, Threadleaf Milkweed 

Asclepias subulata, Desert Milkweed 

Carnegia gigantia, Saguaro 

Ferocactus species, Barrel Cactus 

Fouquieria splendens, Ocotillo 

Hesperaloe parviflora, Red Yucca 

Opuntia species, Prickly Pear 

Plant flowering perennials to attract hummingbirds to 

your garden. 

...and don't forget ornamental grasses 

for nesting material. 


Glossary 

Acid, Acidic 

[soil]ÑHaving a pH value 

below 7. See pH. 

Alkaline [soil]ÑA pH 

value above 7. See pH. 

Alluvial [soil, 

slopes]ÑAreas of 

Òyoung,Ó rocky soils, 

typically at the bases of 

mountains. 

Alternate [leaves]ÑBorne 

singly at each node, in a 

spiral up a stem. 

AngiospermÑPlant that 

has its seeds enclosed in 

an ovary. 

AnnualÑPlant that completes 

its life cycle in one 

season or one year. 

AntherÑPart of a stamen 

that produces pollen, usually 

borne on a filament. 

ApexÑTip or growing 

point of an organ such as 

a shoot or branch tip. 

AquaticÑPlant that grows 

in water. 

ArchitecturalÑPlants that 

have strong and often 

spectacular shapes. 

BackfillÑSoil that is 

returned to planting hole 

to fill in around rootball of 

plant. 

Bare RootÑPlants that are 

sold without soil around 

their roots, which occurs 

when they are dormant. 

Roses and certain deciduous 

fruit trees are examples. 

Beneficial InsectsÑInsects 

that prey and feed on 

insect pests that attack 

garden plants. 

BiennialÑPlant that completes 

its life cycle in two 

years, usually flowering 

and fruiting the second 

year. 

Blow SandÑSand that is 

blown into an area, propelled 

by strong winds. 

Can damage plants and 

property if wind velocity is 

too high. 

BoltÑTo produce flowers 

and seed, sometimes prematurely, 

such as Òbolt to 

seed.Ó 

BractÑModified leaves 

that may take on the 

appearance of flower 

petals. Bracts are usually 

green but can be conspicuous 

and colorful such as 

those of bougainvillea. 

BudÑRudimentary or condensed 

shoot containing 

embryonic leaves and or 

flowers. 

CalicheÑSoil condition 

created when a deposit 

of calcium carbonate is 

located beneath the soil 

surface. Found throughout 

the Southwest. 

ChlorosisÑNutrient deficiency 

in plants. Indicated 

by leaves that have a 

yellowish cast. Iron chlorosis 

is common in the 

Southwest U.S. 

CIMISÑCalifornia 

Irrigation Management 

Information System. 

Computer-generated 

information from weather 

stations across the state 

record and disseminate 

data to help determine a 

plantÕs water need. 

CompostÑMixture of 

decomposed vegetative 

matter, useful for amending 

soil, mulching and 

fertilizing. 

Controller (irrigation 

system)ÑRegulates when 

and how much water is 

applied via an irrigation 

system. Also known as a 

timer. 

CrownÑPlace on a plant 

where roots and stems 

join. Important to position 

most plants with the 

crown just slightly above 

soil level when planting to 

prevent rot. 

CultivarÑCultivated variety 

of a plant, rather than 

a variety that occurs naturally 

in the wild. Properly 

designated with single 

quotation marks around 

the name, or with the 

abbreviation Òcv.Ó 

CuttingsÑSometimes 

called "slips." Portions of 

stem or root that can be 

induced to form roots and 

develop into new plants. 

DeadheadÑRemoving 

flower heads after they 

are past prime, which can 

encourage more flowers. 

DeciduousÑLosing leaves 

or other plant parts during 

dormant season of year. 

Plant almost appears to 

die but regrows the next 

season. 

DivisionÑPropagation 

by dividing a clump into 

several parts, often done 

while plant is dormant. 

Dormant, 

DormancyÑPlant that is 

alive but is not actively 

growing. 

Drainage (soil)ÑWater 

movement through the 

soil, in regard to plant 

roots. Sandy soils are fastdraining; 

clay soils drain 

slowly. 

Drip IrrigationÑSystem 

where water is delivered 

(dripped) to plants at their 

root zones by emitters. 

Drip LineÑImaginary area 

around a tree or shrub that 

marks its widest growth. 

So called because rain 

tends to drip from plant 

leaves to the ground at its 

drip line. 

Drought 

TolerantÑInherent ability 

of a plant to survive without 

water for long periods 

of time. 

EmitterÑIrrigation equipment 

that allows water to 

be applied slowly to plant 

roots in controlled increments, 

such as 1-gallon, 

2-gallon or 5-gallon. Also 

called drip emitter. 

EspalierÑA tree, shrub or 

vine trained (pruned) to 

grow flat against a wall or 

trellis. 

EstablishÑTime it requires 

a plant to adjust to its life 

in the ground after planting 

and produce good 

root and top growth. Most 

plants are considered 

ÒestablishedÓ after living 

and growing through two 

summer seasons. 

Evapotranspiration 

(ET)ÑEvaporation of moisture 

from a leafÕs surface. 

The ET rate for a given 

plant is the amount of 

moisture it needs to sustain 

itself. 

EvergreenÑPlant that has 

green leaves throughout 

the year. 

FamilyÑA biological classification. 

All members of 

a plant family share certain 

characteristics that are 

not found in other families. 

See Genus. 

Feeder RootsÑRoots that 

absorb moisture and nutrients 

for a plant, typically 

located at the perimeter 

of a plant beyond its drip 

line. 

FloretÑSmall, individual 

flower in the flowerheads 

of such plants as broccoli 

or sunflower. 

FlowerÑReproductive unit 

of an angiosperm. The 

basic flower forms are 

single, with one row of 

usually 3 to 6 petals; semidouble, 

with more pet- 

152 u Glossary

als, usually in two rows; 

double, with many petals 

in several rows and few 

or no stamens; and fully 

double, usually rounded 

in shape, with densely 

packed petals and with 

stamens obscured. 

FoliageÑA plantÕs leaves. 

GenusÑMost important 

subdivision of a plant or 

animal family, designated 

by the first word in the 

botanical name. In Salvia 

elegans, (pineapple sage), 

Salvia is the genus, elegans 

is the species. Also 

see Species. 

Growing SeasonÑDays 

between last frost and first 

frost. In the Coachella 

Valley it is approximately 

330 days. 

Habit (growth, 

flowering)ÑThe natural 

form or tendencies of a 

plant. For example, typical 

growth habits are compact, 

upright or spreading. 

Harden OffÑTo gradually 

adjust (harden) plants 

to colder temperatures. 

Common when plants 

from a nursery greenhouse 

are brought home. 

HardpanÑSee Caliche. 

HardscapeÑPart of the 

landscape that cannot 

absorb water, such as 

sidewalks, patios, rooftops 

and driveways. 

Hardy, Cold 

HardyÑDescribes a 

plant's resistance to, 

or tolerance of, frost or 

freezing temperatures 

(as in "hardy to 20FÓ). 

The word does not mean 

tough, pest resistant or disease 

resistant. See Tender. 

HeadingÑalso called 

Topping. Removing limbs 

and branches at arbitrary 

height, which ruins the 

treeÕs form. 

HerbaceousÑIn a general 

sense, plants having nonwoody 

tissues. 

HybridÑOffspring of 

genetically different parents, 

usually produced 

accidentally or artificially 

in cultivation. Rarely 

occurs in the wild. See 

Cultivar. 

HydrozoningÑGrouping 

and placing plants in 

a landscape according 

to water requirement. 

Typical zones are high, 

moderate and low. 

Leach, LeachingÑThe 

washing action of rainfall 

or irrigation water to move 

nutrients or salts from the 

upper layers of soil where 

plant roots are located. 

LeaderÑIn a single-trunk 

shrub or tree, the central, 

upward-growing stem. 

Loam (soil)ÑWell-structured, 

fertile soil that is 

moisture retentive and 

well drained. 

MicroclimateÑA small 

climate that differs from a 

surrounding large climate 

zone. Can be as small as a 

cooler location beneath a 

canopy tree compared to 

a warm exposure against a 

south-facing wall. 

MulchÑA layer of matter 

applied to the soil, often 

over a plantÕs root zone 

to conserve moisture, 

protect the roots from temperature 

extremes, reduce 

weed growth and enrich 

the soil. 

Native PlantÑA plant that 

grows in the wild in a 

given region. 

NaturalizeÑPlants that 

spread on their own to 

grow in an area. For 

example, wildflowers can 

reseed to naturalize in a 

given location. 

Organic MatterÑMaterials 

blended into soil to 

improve plant growth. 

Compost, peat moss and 

bark products are examples. 

Overseed (lawn)ÑAs 

warm-season grasses such 

as Bermuda go dormant 

and turn brown in winter, 

cool-season grasses such 

as annual or perennial rye 

are seeded over the lawn. 

PerennialÑPlant that lives 

for at least three seasons, 

normally flowering every 

year. Usually herbaceous 

(nonwoody). 

PetioleÑThe stalk to 

which a leaf is attached. 

pH, pH ScaleÑA measure 

of soil acidity or alkalinity. 

0-6.9 is acid; 

7 is neutral, 7.1-14 is 

alkaline. 

RhizomeÑUnderground 

stem that lives for more 

than one season. Iris have 

rhizomes. 

RunnerÑHorizontally 

spreading stem that forms 

roots at nodes. Often confused 

with stolon. 

RunoffÑWhen rainfall 

or irrigation is too great 

for the soil to absorb and 

water is wasted as it 

Òruns off.Ó 

Self-Seed, Self- 

SowÑDropping or freely 

distributing its seed, from 

which new plants grow 

the following season. 

Soil ProbeÑA device, 

usually a metal rod, that 

is pushed into moistened 

soil to gauge how deeply 

moisture has reached into 

the soil. 

SpeciesÑPlants having 

certain differences from 

other plants within the 

same genus. See Genus. 

StolonÑStem that grows 

horizontally along the 

ground, taking root at 

intervals, often forming 

new plants where it roots. 

SuckerÑPlant growth that 

appears different from 

other stems and branches 

on a grafted plant. 

Sucker growth should be 

removed, especially if 

below the graft union of 

roses and fruit trees. 

Tender, Cold 

TenderÑSusceptible to 

cold temperature damage, 

as 

contrasted to Hardy. 

TopiaryÑTechnique of 

shaping shrubs and trees 

into formalized shapes, 

often in geometric or 

animal forms. 

Transitional 

GardenÑPlants with low 

to moderate water needs 

that blend with and make 

the transition between a 

high-water oasis garden 

and low-water plants on 

the landscape perimeter. 

UmbelÑClusters of florets 

resembling an umbrella 

supported by small stems 

that seem to rise from the 

same point. 

VariegatedÑMarked with 

patches or streaks of 

different colors. 

VarietyÑNaturally occurring 

variation of a species. 

Abbreviated as var. or v. 

WindbreakÑPlanting of 

trees and shrubs to block, 

filter or deflect the wind. 

WindthrowÑPlant, usually 

a tree, uprooted by strong 

winds. 

XeriscapeÑA method 

of landscaping that uses 

common-sense plant 

selection and maintenance 

principles to save 

water while enhancing 

our surroundings. 

Glossary u 153

Resources 

In addition to this book, 

many other valuable 

resources and reference 

materials are available, 

several are listed here. 

Videotapes and CD- 

ROMs add visual elements 

to the educational 

process. In fact, Coachella 

Valley Water District supplements 

this publication 

with a CD-ROM version, 

available directly from the 

Coachella Valley Water 

District. 

This publication can 

also be viewed on-line at 


District's internet site: 

www.cvwd.org. Searches 

for Òdesert landscapingÓ 

and Òwater conservationÓ 

will lead you to 

new web sites for more 

information. 

Books 

California Native Trees 

and Shrubs, Lee W. 

Lentz and John Dourley, 

Rancho Santa Ana 

Botanical Garden, 

Claremont, Calif. 

Citrus, Lance Walheim, 

Ironwood Press, Tucson, 

Ariz. 

Coping with Soil 

Salinity, Sam Aslan, U.S. 

Department of Agriculture 

Consolidated Farm 

Service Agency, Indio, 

Calif., field office 

Desert Accent Plants; 

Desert Bird Gardening; 

Desert Butterfly 

Gardening; Desert 

Grasses; Desert Ground 

Covers & Vines; Desert 

Shrubs; Native Trees; and 

Desert Wildflowers are 

booklets available from 

Arizona Native Plant 

Society, Tucson, Ariz. 

Desert GardenerÕs 

154 u Resources 

Calendar, George 

Brookbank, University of 

Arizona Press, Tucson, Ariz. 

Desert Landscape 

Architecture, John Krieg, 

CRC Press, Tampa, Fla. 

Desert Landscaping, 

George Brookbank, 

University of Arizona 

Press, Tucson, Ariz. 

Earth-Friendly Desert 

Gardening, Cathy 

Cromell, Arizona 

Master Gardener Press, 


Maricopa County 

Cooperative Extension, 

Phoenix, Ariz. 

Gardening in the Desert, 

Mary Irish, University of 

Arizona Press, Tucson, Ariz. 

Gardening in the 

Southwest, Sunset 

Publishing, Menlo Park, 

Calif. 

How to Grow The 

Wildflowers, Eric A. 

Johnson and Scott 

Millard, Ironwood Press, 

Tucson, Ariz. 

Landscape Plants for Dry 

Regions, Warren Jones 

and Charles Sacamano, 

Perseus Publishing, 

Cambridge, Mass. 

Landscape Plants for 

Western Regions, Bob 

Perry, Land Design 

Publishing, San Dimas, 

Calif. 

The Low-Water Flower 

Gardener, Eric A. Johnson 

and Scott Millard, 

Ironwood Press, Tucson, 

Ariz. 

Low-Water Use Plants, 

Carol Schuler, Fisher 

Books, Tucson, Ariz. 

Native Plants for 

Southwestern Landscapes, 

Judy Mielke, University of 

Texas Press, Austin, Texas 

Native Texas Plants, 

Sally Wasowski and 

Andy Wasowski, Gulf 

Publishing, Houston, 

Texas 

Natural by Design, Judith 

Phillips, Museum of New 

Mexico Press, Santa Fe, 

New Mexico 

Natural History of the 

Sonoran Desert, Steve 

Phillips, editor, Arizona- 

Sonora Desert Museum 

Press, Tucson, Ariz. 

Plants for Dry Climates, 

Revised Edition, Mary 

Rose Duffield and 

Warren D. Jones, Perseus 

Publishing, Cambridge, 

Mass. 

Plants for Natural 

Gardens, Judith Phillips, 

Museum of New Mexico 

Press, Santa Fe, New 

Mexico 

Pruning, Planting & 

Care: Johnson's Guide 

to Gardening, Eric A. 

Johnson, Ironwood Press, 

Tucson, Ariz. 

Saline and Alkali Soils, 

Agriculture Handbook 60, 

U.S. Department of Agriculture, 

Washington D.C. 

Southwestern 

Landscaping with Native 

Plants, Judith Phillips, 

Museum of New Mexico 

Press, Santa Fe, New 

Mexico 

Sunset Western Garden 

Book, Sunset Publishing, 

Menlo Park, Calif. 

Taylor's Guide to 

Gardening in the 

Southwest, Houghton 

Mifflin Co., Boston, Mass. 

Turfgrass Water 

Conservation, Victor A. 

Gibeault and Stephen T. 

Cockerham, University 

of California, Division of 

Agricultural and Natural 

Resources, Berkeley, Calif. 

Waterwise Gardening, 

Sunset Publishing, Menlo 

Park, Calif. 

Videos and 

CD ROMs 

Desert Landscaping: 

Plants for a Water-Scarce 

Environment, CD- 

ROM, Water Resources 

Research Center, 

University of Arizona, 

Tucson, Ariz. 

Drought Survival Guide: 

video, Sunset Publishing, 

Menlo Park, Calif. 

Efficient Water 

Management in the 

Landscape: video, San 

Luis Video Publishing, 

San Luis Obispo, Calif. 

Landscape Irrigation 

Maintenance and 

Troubleshooting: 

video, San Luis Video 

Publishing, San Luis 

Obispo, Calif. 

Micro Irrigation 

Management: video, 

Richard J. Soltys 

Productions, Coachella 

Valley Resource 

Conservation District, 

Indio, Calif. 

Micro Irrigation 

Uniformity and Efficiency: 

video, Richard J. Soltys 

Productions, Coachella 

Valley Resource 

Conservation District, 

Indio, Calif.

Public 

Gardens 

Arboretums and botanic 

gardens offer valuable 

information and ideas 

on plant selection, landscaping 

and water conservation. 

Note that the 

information regarding 

these gardens is subject to 

change. Phone ahead for 

up-to-date information. 


Gardens 



Avenue 52 at Hwy 111 

Coachella, Calif. 92236 

(760) 398-2651 

Demonstration gardens 

are available for public 

viewing at headquarters 

(address above) and 75- 

525 Hovley Lane East in 

Palm Desert, CA 92211. 

Desert Water Agency 

1200 S. Gene Autry Trail 

Palm Springs, Calif. 

92264 

(760) 323-4971 

Serving Palm Springs 

proper, DWA houses 

water-efficient demonstration 

gardens at its 

headquarters and nearby 

water-recycling facility. 

College of the Desert 

Arboretum 

43-500 Monterey Avenue 

Palm Desert, Calif. 92260 

(760) 773-2561 

The landscaping on this 

160-acre campus is being 

redesigned over the next 

decade to suggest appropriate 

plants for the public 

and landscape industry. 

Desert RancherÕs 

Park is separately maintained 

as a test garden for 

new plant introductions. 

Student employees assist 

with propagation and culture 

of nursery stock. 

The Living Desert 

47-900 Portola Avenue 

Palm Desert, Calif. 92260 

(760) 346-5694 

Coachella Valley gardeners 

have easy access to 

The Living Desert where 

new horticultural and 

landscape plant displays 

are created regularly to 

offer a variety of ideas for 

home use. Local Sonoran 

Desert plants can be 

viewed with species 

from Australia, Africa, 

South America and Asia. 

Educational programs 

and tours supplement the 

exhibits. Located 1-1/2 

miles south of Highway 

111. Open 9 a.m. to 5 

p.m. daily Sept. 1 to June 

15. Entrance fee. 

www.livingdesert.org. 

Arizona Gardens 

Arizona-Sonora 

Desert Museum 

2021 North Kinney Road 

Tucson, Ariz. 85743 

(520) 883-2702 for 

recorded information 

(520) 883-1380 

Located 14 miles west 

of downtown Tucson. 

Head west from I-10 

on Speedway through 

Gates Pass, then north 

on Kinney Road to the 

Museum entrance. 

Over 31 developed acres 

on a total of 186 acres, 

including natural habitat 

zoo, walk-in aviary, 

demonstration gardens, 

earth science exhibits and 

more. Over 1,000 plant 

species and 300 live animal 

species. 

Open daily 8:30 a.m. to 5 

p.m. from mid-September 

to mid-March. Open 7:30 

a.m. to 5 p.m. from mid- 

March to mid-September. 

No tickets sold one hour 

before closing. 

Entrance fee; children 

under 6 free with adult. 

Desert Botanical Garden 

1201 North Galvin 

Parkway 

Phoenix, Ariz. 85008 

(480) 941-1225 

Located 8 miles east of 

the center of metropolitan 

Phoenix. Cross streets to 

the south are Van Buren 

and Galvin Parkway. 

Cross streets to the north 

are 64th Street and 

McDowell Road. 

145 acres of landscaped 

grounds include diverse 

collections of succulent 

plants. More than 50,000 

plants on display. Gift 

shop and restaurant on 

site. 

Open daily 8 a.m. to 

8 p.m. Closed July 

4th, Thanksgiving, and 

Christmas Day. Entrance 

fee. www.dbg.org. 

Boyce Thompson 

Southwestern Arboretum 

37615 Highway 60 

Superior, Ariz. 85273 

(520) 689-2811 for 


(520) 689-2723 


Phoenix on Highway 60, 

3 miles west of Superior. 

Over 35 acres and two 

miles of nature trails that 

represent plants and 

gardens in the Sonoran 

Desert of Arizona. 

Open daily 8 to 5 p.m. 

Closed Christmas Day. 

Entrance fee. 

Tohono Chul Park 

7366 North Paseo 

del Norte 


(520) 575-8468 for 


(520) 742-6455 

From I-10, take Ina Road 

exit east to North Paseo 

del Norte. Go north (left) 

a short distance and turn 

east (right) to the garden 

entrance. 

Over 500 plant species 

on 49 acres of demonstration 

gardens and nature 

trails, including several 

patios, ramadas and special 

gardens. Features 

three museum shops. 

Park open daily all year 

8 a.m. to sunset. (Gates 

close at 5 p.m.) 

Entrance fee. 

www.tohonochulpark. 

org. 

Tucson Botanical 

Gardens 

2150 North 

Alvernon Way 


(520) 326-9686 

Located in central 

Tucson, on North 

Alvernon Way just south 

of Grant Road. Take I-10 

exit east on Grant, travel 

to Alvernon, then head 

south a short distance to 

garden entrance. 

More than 5 acres of gardens 

and displays, with 

over 4,000 plant species. 

Many specialty gardens, 

including Xeriscape. 

Open daily 8:30 a.m. to 

4:30 p.m. Closed July 4, 

Thanksgiving, Christmas 

Day, New Year's Day. 

Entrance fee required. 

Children 5 and under free. 


Campus Arboretum 

Herring Hall, University 

of Arizona 


The University of Arizona 

Campus Arboretum is 

the oldest continually 

maintain public garden 

space in Arizona. As a 

result, over 400 tree species, 

as well as impressive 

cacti and succulents 

from desert lands around 

the world are on displayÑright 

in the center 

of Tucson. Campus is 

Public Gardens u 155

open every day to all. 

During the week, visitors 

can get brochures and 

information in Herring 

Hall, located south of 

Old Main. On-line tours 

and plant identification 

information is available 

at www.arboretum.arizona. 

edu. 

California Gardens 

Landscapes Southern 

California Style 

Western Municipal 


450 East Alessandro Blvd. 

Riverside, Calif. 92508 

(951) 789-5087 

A 1-acre, water-wise 

demonstration garden 

designed for self-guided 

tours. Shows how to save 

water, time and money in 

the landscape. 

Open daily (except holidays) 

10 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

No entrance fee. 

Los Angeles State & 

County Arboretum 

301 North Baldwin Ave. 

Arcadia, Calif. 91007 


downtown Los Angeles. 

From the 210 Freeway, 

take the Baldwin Avenue 

exit south about 1 mile to 

entrance. 

Over 127 acres of landscaped 

grounds demonstration 

gardens, plant 

collections and historic 

buildings. 

Open daily 9 a.m. 

to 4:30 p.m. Closed 

Christmas Day. 

Entrance fee required. 

Rancho Santa Ana 

Botanic Garden 

1500 North College Ave. 

Claremont, Calif. 91711 

(714) 625-8767 


Los Angeles. From I-10 

take Indian Hill Boulevard 

exit north to Foothill 

Boulevard. Travel east to 

College Avenue. Go north 

on North College Avenue 

to the garden entrance. 

86 acres of native 

California plants, including 

more than 2,800 species. 

Open daily 8 a.m. to 5 

p.m. Closed July 4th, 


and New Year's Day. 


Santa Barbara 

Botanic Garden 

1212 Mission Canyon Rd. 

Santa Barbara, Calif. 

93105 

(805) 563-2521 for 

recorded information. 

(805) 682-4726 

Over 78 acres of display 

gardens and preserve of 

California native plants, 

grouped by geographical 

region. Although 

Santa Barbara is a coastal 

region, the limited availability 

of water makes it 

a fine resource to learn 

about water conservation. 

Open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

March-Oct; 9 a.m. to 5 

p.m. Nov.-Feb. Entrance 

fee required. 

Theodore Payne 

Foundation for Wild 

Flowers and Native 

Plants 

10459 Tuxford Street, 

Sun Valley, Calif. 91352 

(818) 768-1802 

(818) 768-3533 Wildflower 

Hotline March to May. 

Northwest of Glendale 

off I-5. Take the Sunland 

Boulevard exit north to 

Tuxford Street. Turn right 

on Tuxford to entrance, 

which is marked with a 

small sign. 

The Theodore Payne 

Foundation is a learning 

and information center 

and nursery for 800 plant 

species, including rare 

and endangered plants. 

Open 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 

p.m. Tuesday to Saturday. 

Summer hours vary: Call 

ahead. No entrance fee. 

www.theodorepayne.org 

UCR Botanic Gardens 

University of California, 

Riverside Campus 

Riverside, Calif. 92521 

(951) 784-6962 

From I-215/State Highway 

60, exit Martin Luther 

King Blvd. and head west. 

Turn north on Canyon 

Crest Ave. to enter the 

University. At Campus 

Drive turn east and follow 

the signs to the gardens. 

Open daily 8 to 5 

p.m. Closed July 4th, 


and New Year's Day. 

No entrance fee but small 

donation requested. 

www.gardens.ucr.edu 

Nevada Gardens 

Desert Demonstration 

Garden 

3701 Alta Drive 

Las Vegas, Nev. 89153 

(702) 258-3205 

From I-15 take the West 

Charleston Boulevard off 

ramp. Proceed west on 

Charleston then right on 

Valley View, and right 

again on Alta Drive to 

entrance. 

A garden dedicated to 

water conservation. 

Founded by the Las Vegas 

Kiwanis Club, rededicated 

by Las Vegas Water 

District and University 

of Nevada Cooperative 

Extension Service. 

Open Monday to Friday 

8 to 6 p.m. Open 

Saturdays 8 to 12 p.m. 

Closed New Year's Day, 

Washington's Birthday, 

Memorial Day, July 4th, 

Labor Day, Nevada Day 

(October 31st), Veteran's 

Day, Thanksgiving 

(Thursday and Friday), 

and Christmas Day. 


Ethel M¨ Chocolates 

Botanical Cactus Garden 

2 Cactus Garden Drive 

Henderson, Nev. 89014 

(702) 458-8864 

Located 5 miles from I-15 

and Las Vegas Boulevard. 

Take Tropicana Boulevard 

east to Mountain Vista, 

go south to Sunset Way 

(adjacent to the Ethel M 

Chocolate Factory on 

Cactus Garden Drive in 

the Green Valley Business 

Park). Follow signs to garden 

entrance. 

A beautiful, 3-acre display 

of colorful desert 

shrubs, trees and exotic 

cacti and succulents. 

Open daily 8:30 a.m. to 

7:00 p.m. 


University of Nevada Las 

Vegas Arboretum 

4505 Maryland Parkway 

Las Vegas, Nev. 89154 

(702) 739-3392 

Travel two miles east of 

I-15 and Las Vegas 

Boulevard on Tropicana 

Avenue to Swenson 

Avenue, turn north to 

Harmon Avenue, then 

turn east. Entrance to 

garden is off Harmon 

Avenue. Parking areas 

located north of Barrick 

Museum of Natural 

History at the end of 

Harmon. 

A unique, on-campus 

arboretum and Xeriscape 

demonstration garden. 

Museum hours are 

Monday to Friday 9 a.m. 

to 4:45 p.m.; Saturday 10 

a.m. to 4:45 p.m. 

Open dailyÑdoes not 

close. No entrance fee. 

156 u Public Gardens

Index 

Gardening 

A 

Acid, Acidic (soil), 152 

Alkaline (soil), 9, 152 

Alluvial soil, 9, 152 

Alternate (leaves), 152 

Angiosperm, 152 

Annual, 152 

Anther, 152 

Apex, 152 

Aphids, 19, 20 

Aquatic, 152 

Architectural (plants), 152 

B 

Backfill, 152 

Bare-root plants, 14, 21, 152 

Beneficial insects, 20, 152 

Biennial, 152 

Blow sand, 7, 152 

Bolt to seed, 152 

Botanic gardens, public, 

155-156 

Bract, 152 

Bubblers, 32 

Bud, 152 

Buying plants, 14 

C 

Calendar, gardening, 21-25 

Caliche, 8, 152 

California Irrigation 

Management System 

(CIMIS), 29, 152 

Chlorosis, 150, 152 

Climate control, 

landscaping, 10 

Climate, Coachella Valley, 7 


District (CVWD), 2, 155 


month by month 

gardening, 21-25 

water use, 6 

Cold hardy, 153 

Cold temperatures, 7 

Compost, 9, 152 

Container gardening, 143-145 

plants, selecting, 145 

Controller (irrigation system), 

40, 152 

Crown, plant, 152 

Cultivar, 152 

Cuttings, 152 

D 

Deadheading, 24, 152 

Deciduous, 10, 152 

Desert climates, 7 

Diseases, controls and 

prevention, 20-21 

Division, 152 

Dormant, Dormancy, 152 

Drainage (soil), 152 

Drip emitters, assembly, 36 

Drip emitters, output, 38 

Drip irrigation, 27, 30, 36 

defined, 152 

emitters, 31 

Drip line, 16, 29, 37, 152 

Drought tolerant, 152 

E 

Emitter, 152 

Espalier, 152 

Establishing, plants, 152 

Evapotranspiration (ET), 10, 

29, 152 

Evergreen, 10, 152 

Exposure, 13 

F 

Fall planting, 24 

Family, 152 

Feeder roots, 37, 152 

Fertilizing, 18 

by plant type, 18, 22 

Floret, 152 

Flower, 152 

Foliage, 153 

Fountains, 142 

Freezing temperatures, 13, 

149 

Fruit gardening, 147-148 

G 

Genus, 153 

Ground covers, as climate 

control, 11 

irrigation, 37, 39 

spacing for coverage, 15 

Growing season, 153 

Gummosis, on citrus, 20, 150 

H 

Habit (growth), 153 

Harden off, 153 

Hardpan, 8, 153 

Hardy, cold hardy, 153 

Heading, 153 

Herbaceous, 153 

High temperatures, affect 

on plants, 7 

High-water use plants, 5 

Hybrid, 153 

Hydrozoning plants, 14, 153 

I 

Insect pests, controls, 19, 

22, 150 

Irrigation, 27-41 

chart, for landscape 

plants, 32 

chart, for lawns, 34 

pruning and, 17 

Irrigation system 

components, 30 

fittings, 31 

sprinkler heads, 33 

diagnosing problems, 41 

installation tips, 37 

installing yourself, 35-39 

lawns, 34, 39 

layout, 31 

maintaining, 39, 40 

retrofitting, 39 

shrubs, 32, 39 

L 

Ladybugs, 19, 20 

Landscape water use, 

household, 6 

Landscaping 

dry creek bed, 25, 149, 150 

near pools, 140-142 

planning, 137-138 

rocks, boulders, 149, 150 

small space design, 138 

updating old, 139, 140 

wildlife habitat, 150-151 

Lawn care, 142-143 

fertilizing, 18, 25 

Lawn, edging, 38 

Lawn, in landscape design, 

38, 139, 142-143 

Lawn irrigation chart, 34 

irrigation system, 

installing, 40 

testing coverage, 40 

Lawn, overseeding, 143 

Leaching (soil), 9, 153 

Leader, 153 

Loam (soil), 153 

M 

Mail-order plants, 14 

Microclimate, 13, 153 

Microirrigation system, 36-39 

Mites, 19 

Mulch, 8, 9, 18, 19, 148, 153 

N 

Native plants, 6, 153 

Naturalize, 153 

Nursery shopping, 14-15 

Nutrients, plants, 18 

O 

Organic matter, as soil 

additive, 8, 153 

Overseeding (lawn), 153 

Overwatering, 17 

P 

Patios, landscaping, 140-142 

Perennials, 24, 153 

Pests and diseases, 19-21 

citrus pests, 150 

Petiole, 153 

pH, pH scale, 9, 153 

Planting step by step, 16 

Planting, timing of, 24 

Plants and spacing, 15 

Plants, day-to-day water 

needs, 27-28 

Plants, modifying climate, 10 

water efficient, 12 

Pools, landscaping near, 

140-142 

Pop-up sprayhead, 33 

Pruning basics, 15 

timing of, 15-18 

R 

Rhizome, 153 

Runner, 153 

Runoff, 153 

S 

Salton Sea, 11 

Sand dunes, 11 

Sand storms, 11 

Sandy soils, 8 

Selecting plants, 14-15 

Self-Seed, self-sow, 153 

Shade, benefits of, 13 

Shrubs, irrigation, 32 

Slope irrigation, 38 

Soil pH, 9 

Soil probe, 153 

Soils, Coachella Valley, 7, 8 

Solarization, to kill weeds, 21 

Species, 153 

Spider mites, 19 

Sprinkler types, 33 

Stolon, 153 

Succession planting, 145 

Sucker, 153 

Sun exposure and plants, 10 

Systemic controls, 19 

T 

Tender, cold tender, 7, 153 

Thrips, 19, 22 

Topiary, 153 

Topping trees, 17 

Transitional garden, 153 

Trees for windbreaks, 12 

Trees, irrigation of, 32 

U 

Umbel, 153 

Underwatering, 17, 28 

V 

Valves, irrigation, 35 

Variegated, 153 

Variety, 153 

Vegetable gardens, 39, 

145-147 

W 

Watering, 27-41 

basins, 16 

basics, 28 

irrigation systems, 30-41 

plant needs, 12, 27 

soil type, 27-28 

technology, 29 

timing of, 32, 34 

Weeds, control, 21 

Wildflowers, planting, 25, 129 

Windbreaks, 153 

chart, trees for, 12 

Winds, 7, 11-12 

Windthrow, 153 

Wildflowers, growing, 129 

Wildlife, attracting, 150-151 

X 

Xeriscape, 153 

Index u 157

Index 

Plants 

A 

Abutilon palmeri, 69 

Acacia species, 45-47 

A. aneura, 10, 12, 45 

A. berlandieri, 45 

A. craspedocarpa, 45 

A. farnesiana, 46 

A. redolens ÔProstrataÕ, 

45 

A. rigidula, 46 

A. salicina, 46 

A. saligna, 46 

A. smallii, 46 

A. stenophylla, 47 

A. willardiana, 47 

Achillea tomentosa, 112 

Afgan pine, 12, 60 

African sumac, 12, 65 

Agapanthus orientalis, 121 

Agave americana, 107 

A. americana 

ÔMarginataÕ, 

107 

A. americana 

ÔMediopictaÕ, 

107 

A. colorata, 108 

A. parryi, 108 

A. victoria-reginae, 108 

A. vilmoriniana, 107 

A. weberi, 109 

Albizia julibrissin, 47 

Aleppo pine, 60 

Aloe arborescens, 109 

A. dawei, 109 

A. ferox, 109 

A. variegata, 110 

A. vera, 110 

Alyogyne huegelli, 69 

Ambrosia deltoidea, 69 

Ammi majus, 130 

AngelÕs hair, 121 

Anisacanthus quadrifidus 

var. brevifolius, 70 

A. quadrifidus var. 

wrightii, 70 

A. thurberi, 70 

Annual ryegrass, 24, 143 

Antigonon leptopus, 101 

Antirrhinum majus, 130 

Apache plume, 77 

Aquilegia hybrids, 121 

Arecastrum romanzoffianum, 

47 

Argentine hedgehog, 116 

Arizona cypress, 12, 52 

Arizona rosewood, 93 

Artemisia schmidtiana, 121 

Asclepias linearis, 110 

A. subulata, 110 

Ash, 55 

Asparagus densiflorus, 121 

Atriplex canescens, 70 

Australian willow, 55 

Autumn sage, 89 

B 

Baby blue eyes, 134 

BabyÕs breath, 124 

Baccharis X ÔCentennialÕ, 

95 

B. hybrid ÔStarnÕ 

Thompson, 95 

BachelorÕs button, 130 

Baileya multiradiata, 121 

Baja fairy duster, 71 

Baja passion vine, 104 

Baja ruellia, 88 

Banana yucca, 116 

Barrel cactus, 112 

Bat-faced cuphea, 74 

Bauhinia blakeana, 48, 49 

B. lunarioides, 48 

B. purpurea, 48 

B. variegata, 48 

Bear grass, 113 

Bergenia crassifolia, 121 

Berlandiera lyrata, 122 

Bermudagrass, 18, 142-143 

BishopÕs flower, 130 

Bird of paradise, 71 

Black brush acacia, 46 

Black dalea, 75 

Black-eyed Susan, 126 

Blackfoot daisy, 124 

Bladder bush, 73 

Blanket flower, 123 

Blue fescue, 119 

Blue flax, 133 

Blue hibiscus, 69 

Blue leaf wattle, 46 

Blue palo verde, 58 

Blue queen sage, 126 

Blue thimble flower, 132 

Blue yucca, 117 

Bottlebrush, 50 

Bottle tree, 12, 49 

Bougainvillea species, 15, 101 

Brachychiton populneus, 

12, 49 

Brahea armata, 48, 49 

B. edulis, 49 

Brittlebush, 4, 76 

Buddleia marrubifolia, 70 

Bulbine frutescens, 111 

Bull grass, 119 

Bush dalea, 75 

Butia capitata, 49 

Butterfly iris, 123 

Buxus microphylla var. 

japonica, 70 

C 

Caesalpinia cacalaco, 50 

C. gilliesii, 71 

C. mexicana, 71 

C. pulcherrima, 71 

Cajeput tree, 57 

Calendula officinalis, 130 

California bluebell, 134 

California fan palm, 67 

California fuchsia, 127 

California live oak, 64 

California pepper, 66 

Calliandra californica, 71 

C. eriophylla, 72 

C. haematocephala, 72 

Callistemon citrinus, 60 

C. viminalis ÔLittle JohnÕ, 

72 

Calylophus hartweggii, 95 

Campsis radicans, 101 

Cape honeysuckle, 92 

Carissa grandiflora, 72, 73 

Carnation, 131 

Carnegiea gigantea, 111 

Carob, 12, 50 

Carolina cherry, 63 

Carolina jessamine, 102 

Cascalote, 50 

Cassia species, see Senna, 

90-91 

Catchfly, 127 

Catclaw, 103 

Catharanthus roseus, 130 

Celtis pallida, 73 

Centaurea cineraria, 122 

C. cyanus, 130 

Century plant, 107 

Cerastium tomentosum, 122 

Ceratonia siliqua, 12, 50 

Cercidium species, see 

Parkinsonia, 58-59 

Cereus hildmannianus, 111 

Chamaerops humilis, 51 

Chaparral sage, 89 

Chaste tree, 67 

Cheiranthus cheiri, 130 

Cherry laurel, 63 

Chihuahuan primrose, 98 

Chihuahuan rain sage, 83 

Chilean mesquite, 63 

Chilopsis linearis, 51 

Chinese flame tree, 56 

Chinese houses, 131 

Chinese pistachio, 60 

Chinese wisteria, 105 

Catalpa bignonioides, 51 

Chitalpa X tashkentensis, 51 

Chocolate flower, 122 

Chorisia speciosa, 52, 53 

Chrysactinia mexicana, 95 

Chrysanthemum frutescens, 

122 

C. X morifolium, 130 

C. X superbum, 122 

Chuperosa, 81 

Citrus, 7, 22, 147-150 

Clarkia amoena, 131 

Cleome isomeris, 73 

Cliva minuta, 122 

Clytostoma callistegioides, 102 

Cocculus laurifolius, 74 

Collinsia heterophylla, 131 

Columbine, 121 

Compass barrel, 112 

Convolvulus cneorum, 96, 97 

C. mauritanicus, 96, 97 

Coolibah tree, 12, 54, 55 

Coral bells, 124 

Coral vine, 101 

Cordia boissieri, 74 

C. parvifolia, 74 

Coreopsis lanceolata, 122 

C. verticillata, 122 

Cork oak, 65 

Cosmos bipinnatus, 131 

Crape myrtle, 56 

Creosote, 82 

Crown of thorns, 123 

Cuphea hyssopifolia, 74 

C. llavea, 74 

Cupressus arizonica, 12, 52 

C. glabra, 12, 52 

C. sempervirens, 52 

Cycas revoluta, 75 

D 

Dalbergia sisso, 52, 53 

Dalea capitata, 96 

D. frutescens, 75 

D. greggii, 96 

D. pulchra, 75 

D. spinosa, 53 

DameÕs rocket, 124 

Damianita, 95 

Dasylirion acrotriche, 111 

D. longissimum, 111 

D. wheeleri, 111 

Date palm, 59 

Daylily, 124 

Deer grass, 119 

Delphinium species, 131 

Desert hackberry, 73 

Desert honeysuckle, 69 

Desert ironwood, 58 

Desert lavender, 80 

Desert marigold, 52 

Desert milkweed, 110 

Desert palo verde, 58, 59 

Desert senna, 90 

Desert smoke tree, 53 

Desert spoon, 111 

Desert willow, 51 

Desert zinnia, 127 

Dianthus species, 131 

Dicliptera resupinata, 122 

Dietes bicolor, 123 

D. vegeta, 123 

Dodonaea viscosa, 75 

Dusty miller, 122 

Dwarf cup flower, 125 

E 

Echinacea purpurea, 123 

158 u Index

Echinocactus grusonii, 112 

Echinocereus engelmannii, 112 

ElephantÕs food, 115 

Encelia farinosa, 4, 76 

EngelmannÕs hedgehog, 

112, 

113 

EngelmannÕs prickly pear, 

114 

Eremophila maculata v. 

brevifolia, 76 

Ericameria laricifolia, 76 

Eriobotrya japonica, 53 

Eriogonum fasciculatum v. 

poliofolium, 77 

Eschscholzia californica, 131 

Eucalyptus cinerea, 54 

E. microtheca, 12, 54, 55 

E. spathulata, 12, 54, 55 

Euonymus japonicus, 77 

Euphorbia milii, 123 

E. rigida, 112 

E. tirucalli, 123 

Euryops pectinalis 

ÔViridisÕ, 

123 

Evergreen elm, 67 

Evergreen pistachio, 61 

Evolvulus ruttalianus, 123 

Eysenhardtia orthocarpa, 55 

F 

Fairy duster, 72 

Fairy primrose, 135 

Fallugia paradoxa, 77 

Farewell-to-spring, 131 

Feathery senna, 90 

Feijoa sellowiana, 78 

Ferocactus cylindraceus, 112 

F. wislizenii, 112 

Festuca glauca, 119 

Fig, 147 

Firecracker penstemon, 125 

Fishhook barrel cactus, 112 

Fivespot, 134 

Flanders field poppy, 134 

Flax, blue, 133 

Flax, scarlet, 133 

Forget-me-not, 134 

Fouquieria splendens, 113 

Fourwing saltbush, 70 

Fraxinus greggii, 78 

F. uhdei, 55 

G 

Gaillardia X grandiflora, 123 

G. pulchella, 131 

Gardenia jasminoides, 78 

Gaura lindheimeri, 124 

Gazania, 97, 124 

Geijera parviflora, 55 

Gelsemium sempervirens, 102 

Geranium, 132 

Germander, 99 

Gilia capitata, 132 

Globe mallow, 126 

Golden barrel, 112 

Golden dalea, 96 

Golden dyssodia, 112 

Golden eye, 93 

Goldfields, 132 

Gopher plant, 112 

Grapes, 105 

Grapefruit, 148 

Grass lawns, 142-143 

Green gold, 123 

Grewia occidentalis, 78 

Ground morning glory, 96 

Guajillo, 45 

Guadalupe palm, 49 

Guaiacum coulteri, 78 

Guayacan, 78 

Gypsophila paniculata, 124 

H 

Hamelia patens, 79 

HallÕs honeysuckle, 103 

Hardenbergia violacea, 102 

Hawaiian blue eyes, 123 

Heavenly bamboo, 85 

Helianthus maximilianii, 132 

Hemerocallis species, 124 

Hesperaloe funifera, 113 

H. parviflora, 113, 145 

Hesperis matronalis, 124 

Heuchera sanguinea, 124 

Hibiscus, 79 

Holly oak, 65 

Honey mesquite, 63 

Hong Kong orchid tree, 48, 49 

Hop bush, 75 

Hymenoxis acaulis, 124 

Hyptis emoryi, 80 

I 

Imperata cylindrica, 119 

Indian blanket, 131 

Indian fig, 114 

Indian hawthorne, 88 

Indian mallow, 69 

Indian rosewood, 52, 53 

Indigo bush, 75 

Italian cypress, 52 

Italian stone pine, 12, 60 

J 

Jacaranda mimosifolia, 56 

Japanese blood grass, 119 

Japanese boxwood, 70 

Japanese plum, 53 

Japanese privet, 84 

Japanese wisteria, 105 

Jasminum mesnyi, 102 

Jerusalem sage, 86 

Jojoba, 91 

Juniperus chinensis, 80, 81 

Justicia brandegeana, 81 

J. californica, 81 

J. spicigera, 81 

K 

Kaffir lily, 122 

Kapok, 52 

Kidneywood, 55 

Koelreuteria bipinnata, 56 

L 

Lady BanksÕ rose, 104 

Lagerstroemia indica, 56 

Lanceleaf coreopsis, 122 

Lantana montevidensis, 97 

L. camara, 81 

Larkspur, 131 

Larrea tridentata, 82 

Lasthenia glabrata, 132 

Lathyrus odoratus, 132 

Laurustinus, 93 

Lavandula stoechas, 124 

Lavender star-flower, 78 

Lavender trumpet vine, 102 

Lawns, 39, 142-143 

Layia platyglossa, 132 

Leatherleaf acacia, 45 

Lemon bottlebush, 50 

Leucophyllum candidum, 83 

L. frutescens, 83 

L. laevigatum, 83 

L. langmaniae, 83 

L. pruinosum, 84 

L. zygophyllum, 84 

Licorice marigold, 126 

Ligustrum japonicum, 84 

Lilac vine, 102 

Lily-of-the-Nile, 121 

Linaria maroccana, 132 

Lindheimer muhly, 119 

Linum grandiflorum 

ÔRubrumÕ, 133 

Linum perenne subsp. 

lewisii, 133 

ÔLittle JohnÕ bottlebrush, 

72 

Little leaf ash, 78 

Little leaf cordia, 74 

Little leaf elm, 67 

Little leaf palo verde, 58 

Lobelia erinus, 132 

Lobularia maritima, 132 

Lonicera japonica 

ÔHallianaÕ, 

103 

Loquat, 53 

Lupinus densiflorus var. 

aureus, 132 

L. texensis, 132 

Lysiloma watsonii var. 

thornberi, 57 

M 

Macfadyena unguis-cati, 102 

Majestic beauty ash, 55 

Mangle dulce, 84 

Marigold, 135 

Mascagnia macroptera, 102 

Matthiola incana, 132 

Maytenus phyllanthoides, 84 

Mealy cup sage, 126 

Mediterranean fan palm, 51 

Melaleuca quinquenervia, 57 

Merremia aurea, 103 

Mescal ceniza, 108 

Mesquite, 62, 63 

Mexican bird of paradise, 71 

Mexican blue palm, 49 

Mexican bush sage, 90 

Mexican ebony, 61 

Mexican evening primrose, 98 

Mexican fan palm, 67 

Mexican fencepost, 114 

Mexican hat, 126 

Mexican heather, 74 

Mexican honeysuckle, 81 

Mexican sunflower, 135 

Mexican threadgrass, 119 

Mock orange, 87 

Mondale pine, 60 

Moss verbena, 127 

Mountain marigold, 91 

Muhlenbergia capillaris, 119 

M. emersleyi, 119 

M. lindheimeri, 119 

M. rigens, 119 

Mulga acacia, 12, 45 

MurpheyÕs agave, 108 

Murraya paniculata, 85 

Myoporum parvifolium, 97 

Myosotis sylvatica, 134 

Myrtle, 85 

Myrtus communis, 85 

N 

Nandina domestica, 85 

Narrow-leafed gimlet, 12, 54 

Nassella tennuissima, 119 

Natal plum, 72 

Nectarine, 147 

Nemophylla maculata, 134 

N. menziesii, 134 

Nerium oleander, 11, 85, 86 

Nierembergia hippomanica, 

125 

Nolina microcarpa, 113 

O 

Oak, 64, 65 

Ocotillo, 113 

Octopus agave, 108 

Oenothera berlandieri, 98 

O. caespitosa, 125 

O. stubbei, 98 

Olea europaea, 57 

Oleander, 11, 85, 86 

Olive, 22, 57 

Olneya tesota, 58 

Opuntia basilaris, 114 

O. engelmannii, 114 

O. ficus-indica, 114 

Orange jessamine, 85 

Organ pipe cactus, 115 

Orthocarpus purpurascens, 

134 

Our lordÕs candle, 135 

OwlÕs clover, 134 

Index u 159

P 

Pachycereus marginatus, 

114 

Pachypodium lamerei, 115 

Pale leaf yucca, 117 

Palm, California fan, 67 

Palm, Mexican fan, 67 

Palo blanco, 47 

Palo brea, 59 

Palo verde, blue, 58 

littleleaf, 58 

Sonoran, 59 

Pansy, 135 

Papaver rhoeas, 134 

Paperflower, 125 

Parkinsonia ÔDesert 

MuseumÕ, 58, 59 

P. floridum, 58 

P. microphylla, 58 

P. praecox, 59 

ParryÕs agave, 108 

ParryÕs penstemon, 125 

Parthenocissus tricuspidata, 

104 

Partridge breast aloe, 110 

Passiflora alato-caerulea, 104 

P. foetida longipedunculata, 

104 

Passion flower vine, 104 

Peach, 147 

Peacock flower, 123 

Pedilanthus macrocarpus, 115 

Pencil bush, 123 

Pendulous yucca, 117 

Pennisetum setaceum, 119 

Penstemon baccharifolius, 125 

P. eatonii, 125 

P. parryi, 125 

P. pseudospectabilis, 125 

P. superbus, 125 

Perennial ryegrass, 143 

Periwinkle, 99, 130 

Perovskia atriplicifolia, 86 

Peruvian verbena, 127 

Petunia, 134 

Phacelia campanularia, 134 

Phlomis fruticosa, 86 

Phlox drummondii, 134 

Phoenix dactylifera, 59 

Photinia X fraseri, 86 

Pindo palm, 49 

Pineapple guava, 78 

Pine, 60 

Pink muhley, 119 

Pink powder puff, 72 

Pink trumpet vine, 104 

Pinus eldarica, 60 

P. halepensis, 60 

P. pinea, 60 

Pistacia chinensis, 60 

P. lenticus, 61 

Pithecellobium flexicaule, 61 

P. mexicanum, 61 

Pittosporum phillyraeoides, 62 

P. tobira, 87 

Plumbago scandens, 87 

Podranea ricasoliana, 115 

Pomegranate, 64, 147 

Portulacaria afra, 116 

Potentilla tabernaemontani, 

116 

Prairie zinnia, 127 

Prickly pear cactus, 113, 114 

Primrose jasmine, 102 

Primula malacoides, 135 

Prosopis chilensis, 62 

P. glandulosa glandulosa, 

62 

P. velutina, 63 

Prostrate acacia, 45 

Prostrate desert broom, 95 

Prostrate rosemary, 98 

Prunus caroliniana, 63, 87 

P. cerasifera, 63 

Psilostrophe cooperi, 125 

P. tagetina, 125 

Psorothamnus spinosus, 53 

Punica granatum, 64, 147 

Purple coneflower, 123 

Purple orchid tree, 48 

Purple plum, 63 

Pyracantha crenatoserrata 

fortuneana, 87 

P. X ÔSanta Cruz ProstrataÕ, 

87 

Q 

Queen palm, 47 

Queen Victoria agave, 108 

QueenÕs wreath, 101 

Quercus agrifolia, 64 

Q. ilex, 65 

Q. suber, 65 

Q. virginiana, 65 

R 

Rain lily, 127 

Raphiolepis indica, 88 

Ratibida columnaris, 126 

Red bird of paradise, 71 

Red eremophila, 76 

Red fountaingrass, 119 

Red yucca, 113 

Rhapis excelsa, 65 

Rhus lancea, 12, 65 

Rock penstemon, 125 

Rosa banksiae, 104 

Rosmarinus officinalis, 98 

Rough-bark cypress, 12, 52 

Rudbeckia hirta, 126 

Ruellia brittoniana, 88, 89 

R. brittoniana ÕKatieÕ, 

98 

R. peninsularis, 88 

Russian sage, 86 

Ryegrass, 24, 143 

S 

Sago palm, 75 

Saguaro cactus, 111 

Salvia clevelandii, 88, 89 

S. farinacea, 126 

S. greggii, 89 

S. leucantha, 90 

S. X superba, 126 

Sandpaper verbena, 127 

Scarlet bush, 179 

Scarlet flax, 133 

Schinus molle, 66 

Senna artemisioides X 

artemisioides, 90 

S. artemisioides subsp. 

filifolia, 90 

S. artemisioides subsp. 

petiolaris, 91 

S. wislizenii, 91 

Shasta daisy, 122 

Shoestring acacia, 47 

Shrimp plant, 81 

Shrubby senna, 91 

Siberian tea, 121 

Silene armeria, 134 

Silk floss tree, 52 

Silver bush morning glory, 96 

Silver dollar tree, 54 

Silver senna, 91 

Simmondsia chinensis, 91 

Slender lady palm, 65 

Slipperflower, 115 

Snapdragon, 130 

Snow-in-summer, 122 

Soaptree yucca, 116 

Society garlic, 130 

Sophora secundiflora, 66 

Southern live oak, 65 

Spanish bayonet, 116 

St. JohnÕs bread, 50 

Star jasmine, 104 

Stenocereus thurberi, 115 

Stock, 133 

Swamp mallee, 54, 55 

Sweet acacia, 46 

Sweet alyssum, 133 

Sweet pea, 132 

T 

Tagetes erecta, 135 

T. lemmonii, 91 

T. lucida, 126 

Tecoma stans, 92 

T. ÔOrange JubileeÕ, 92 

Tecomaria capensis, 92 

Teucrium chamaedrys, 99 

Texas bluebonnet, 133 

Texas ebony, 61 

Texas honey mesquite, 62 

Texas mountain laurel, 66 

Texas olive, 74 

Texas paperflower, 125 

Texas ranger, 82-83 

Thevetia peruviana, 92 

Tidy tips, 132 

ÔTifÕ hybrid bermudagrass, 

142 

Tithonia rotundifolia, 135 

Toadflax, 132 

Trachelospermum 

jasminoides, 104 

Trachycarpus fortunei, 66 

Trailing indigo bush, 96 

Triangle leaf bursage, 69 

Trichocereus huascha, 116 

Trumpet vine, 101 

Tulbaghia violacea, 126 

Turpentine bush, 76 

Twin-flowered agave, 108 

U 

Ulmus parvifolia, 67 

V 

Vauquelinia californica, 93 

Velvet mesquite, 63 

Verbena hybrids, 135 

V. peruviana, 127 

V. pulchella, 127 

V. rigida, 127 

Viburnum tinus, 93 

Vigna caracalla, 105 

Viguiera deltoidea, 93 

Vinca (annual), 130 

Vinca major, 99 

Viola cornuta, 135 

V. X wittrockiana, 135 

Violet silverleaf, 83 

Vitex agnus-castus, 67 

Vitis californica, 105 

V. vinifera, 105 

W 

Wallflower, 130 

Washingtonia filifera, 67 

W. robusta, 67 

Wedelia trilobata, 99 

Weeping bottlebrush, 50 

Weeping acacia, 46 

Weeping fig, 83 

White desert plumbago, 87 

White evening primrose, 125 

White orchid tree, 48 

Wildflowers, 128-135 

Willow acacia, 46 

Willow pittosporum, 62 

Wisteria floribunda, 105 

W. sinensis, 105 

Woolly butterfly bush, 70 

Woolly yarrow, 121 

X 

Xylosma congestum, 93 

Y 

Yaupon, 80 

Yellow dot, 99 

Yellow orchid vine, 103 

Yellow trumpet flower, 92 

Yucca aloifolia, 116 

Y. baccata, 116 

Y. elata, 116 

Y. gloriosa, 117 

Y. elata, 116 

Y. pallida, 117 

Y. rigida, 117 

Y. whipplei, 117 

Z 

ÔZagrebÕ coreopsis, 122 

Zauschneria californica, 135 

Zinna elegans, 135 

Z. grandiflora, 127 

Zephranthes candida, 127 

160 u Index

Desert Gardens can be Lush and Efficient 

The image of a desert garden consisting only of cacti, boulders and gravel is a common one, but 

this perception is no longer accurate. Many new native and adapted plants are now available that 

are lush in appearance yet are efficient users of water. They are proven to provide as much or more 

interest over long periods than their water-thirsty counterparts. 

This book tells how to select and grow more than 300 plants—trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, cacti, 

ornamental grasses and flowering annuals and perennials—adapted to California’s Coachella Valley. It also 

explains how to design a water-efficient landscape for any size lot. An extensive chapter tells how to install 

an irrigation system that is right for your home, and shows how to water plants easily and efficiently. The 

result becomes a landscape that you’ll enjoy, while conserving the desert’s most precious resource—water. 

Published to promote wise water use 

as a public service by 


Coachella, California 

EAN

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