Bougainvillea - College of Tropical Agriculture and Human ...

Bougainvillea 

Kent D. Kobayashi, James McConnell l , and John Griffis 

Department of Tropical Plant and Soil Sciences, 1 University of Guam 

Bougainvillea species 

The genus Bougainvillea, in the 

Nyctinaginacea (Four-o’clock) 

family of plants, has 14 species, 

with three that are horticulturally 

important: B. spectabilis Willdenow, 

B. glabra Choisy, and B. 

peruviana Humboldt and Bonpland. 

Many crosses among the 

various species have produced 

new hybrid species and important 

horticultural cultivars. Bougainvillea 

is native to South America. 

The name comes from Louis 

Antoine de Bougainville, a French 

navigator and military commander 

who was the first European 

to take note of the plant, in Brazil, in 1768. 

B. spectabilis 

This was the first member of the genus to be identified 

from Brazil in 1798. German botanist Carl Ludwig 

Willdenow is credited with this identification. This species 

is noted for its hairy leaves and stems. The leaves 

are large and ovate, with rippling along the edges and 

hairs on the underside. The bracts are red, dark pink, or 

purple, while the small flowers are cream colored. Its 

thorns are large and may be curved. The growth habit is 

dense, and the colorful bracts appear up and down the 

branches. The bloom cycle is seasonal, with plants 

blooming after the dry season or after a cool spell, which 

may trigger plants to bloom. B. spectabilis is Guam’s 

territorial flower. 

Bougainvillea, paper flower; 

pukanawila, kepalö, kiapolö, pua kepalö 

(Hawaiian); 

puti tai nobiu (Chamorro) 

Ornamentals and Flowers 

Oct. 2007 

OF-38 

B. glabra 

This climbing, evergreen member 

of the genus, also from Brazil, was 

first identified by Swiss botanist 

Jacques Denys Choisy in 1850. 

The elliptical leaves are green or 

variegated, with a glossy sheen. 

They are glabrous (smooth, hairless), 

but you may find some 

puberulence (presence of small 

hairs). Its bracts come in many 

sizes and shapes. Typically they are 

triangular and purple or mauve, 

although white bracts are also 

common. The bracts tend to appear 

along the branches and at the tips. 

The flowers are white to cream 

colored. The thorns are small and curved at the tips. The 

growth habit is spreading, and the green-leaf types are 

fast growing. This species blooms several times a year. B. 

glabra and B. spectabilis are alike in general appearance, 

the main differences being the bloom cycle, and B. glabra 

being hairless whereas B. spectabilis is hairy. 

B. glabra’s score under the Hawai‘i-Pacific Weed Risk 

Assessment program is –1, not likely to be a pest, and 

its designation is L, meaning that it is “not currently 

recognized as invasive in Hawai‘i, and not likely to have 

major ecological or economic impacts on other Pacific 

Islands based on the HP-WRA screening process.” 

B. peruviana 

It is thought that this climbing, evergreen member from 

Peru was first identified by German naturalist and ex- 

Published by the College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources (CTAHR) and issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation 

with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Andrew G. Hashimoto, Director/Dean, Cooperative Extension Service/CTAHR, University of Hawai‘i at Mänoa, Honolulu, Hawai‘i 96822. 

An equal opportunity/affirmative action institution providing programs and services to the people of Hawai‘i without regard to race, sex, age, religion, color, national origin, ancestry, disability, 

marital status, arrest and court record, sexual orientation, or status as a covered veteran. CTAHR publications can be found on the Web site .

UH–CTAHR Bougainvillea OF-38 — Oct. 2007 

plorer Alexander von Humboldt in 1810. This species is 

noted for its green bark. The long, thin leaves are strongly 

ovate and glabrous. The rounded bracts are magenta to 

pink and may have some distortion or wrinkling, and 

the flowers are yellow. The thorns are short and straight. 

The growth habit is lanky. This species is not as vigorous 

as some of the hybrids and often requires pruning to 

promote substantial branching. The plants may bloom 

several times a year if subjected to dry periods between 

flushes. B. peruviana is the most stable species of the 

three described here, as there is very little variation in 

the general shape of bracts and leaves. 

Bougainvillea hybrids 

Among bougainvillea’s horticultural hybrids, B. glabra 

x B. peruviana is by far the most common. This cross 

has its own hybrid name: Bougainvillea x buttiana. The 

original discovery of this hybrid was made by Mrs. R. 

Butt in a garden in Trinidad, hence the name. The leaves 

are large and ovate or heart-shaped with slight hairiness 

on both the upper and lower sides. The bracts are usually 

rounded, red or dark pink, and the thorns are straight 

and short. The small flowers are cream colored with pink 

tones, although the floral tube may be the same color as 

the bract. The growth habit is open and requires pruning 

to promote a bushy appearance. B. x buttiana hybrids 

generally bloom several times a year. 

Bougainvillea x spectoperuviana is another common 

hybrid. The leaves are large, dark green, and ovate, and 

these hybrids are usually hairless. The bracts are coppery 

red in the juvenile stage, turning to various shades 

of magenta or pink as they age. The thorns are straight, 

and the flowers are cream colored. The growth habit is 

large and spreading, and they generally bloom several 

times a year. 

Bougainvillea x spectoglabra is the last of the common 

hybrid bougainvilleas. The leaves are small and 

dark green, with mauve or purple bracts. The thorns are 

numerous and curved, and the small flowers are almost 

white. The growth habit is well branched and thick, and 

blooming is generally several times a year. 

Characteristics 

Bougainvillea is a tropical and subtropical woody, evergreen, 

shrubby vine. Typically multi-trunked or with 

clumping stems, it has a spreading, round plant habit 

with a height and spread of up to 20 feet. It climbs by 

sending out slender arching canes armed with stiff curved 

2 

The true, perfect flower is small, tubular, commonly white 

or yellow, and surrounded by showy, vibrantly colorful 

petaloid bracts. 

thorns. As they age, the stems turn from mid-green to 

dull green-brown. Bougainvillea is deciduous when 

grown in areas with a long dry season. 

Numerous cultivars are available, with a striking array 

of colors. Their colorful “flowers” are really bracts, 

or modified leaves, 1 ⁄2–2-inch long structures to which 

the true flowers are attached at the mid-rib. New growth 

is required for inflorescence production, which occurs 

on short stem axes borne laterally in the axils of leaves. 

From their initial emergence to full maturity, the bracts 

of many cultivars change color. Bracts may retain their 

color for several months after the flowers have finished, 

gradually fading to resemble the color and texture of 

paper. 

Leaves are simple and alternate, with an undulate leaf 

margin. The leaf blade is 2–4 inches long, with much 

variation in shape: globular, elliptical, obivate, ovate, 

or cordate. Leaves are mid- to deep green, although some 

cultivars have variegated foliage. 

The true, perfect flowers are small, tubular, and surrounded 

by showy, colorful petaloid bracts. The vibrant 

colors of bougainvillea are not from the inconspicuous, 

commonly white or yellow, flowers but from the bracts 

that surround each flower. 

The fruit is an elongated achene less than 1 ⁄2 inch long. 

It is rather inconspicuous, not showy, and has a dry, hard 

fruit cover.


Bougainvillea in an urban landscape Trained as a “standard” 

Location and landscape uses 

Location 

Bouganvilleas grow best in full sun. High light intensity 

is required for good flowering. Low light and shady 

areas are not suitable, as the plants will drop their bracts. 

Bougainvillea does best at elevations from 10 to 2500 

feet. 

Bougainvillea can tolerate hot dry locations, with temperatures 

over 100°F. It does well in locations with a 

minimum of 65°F at night and 75–95°F during the day. 

B. glabra can tolerate slightly cooler conditions (58– 

64°F) than B. spectabilis (64–68°F). Bougainvillea does 

best with at least 25 inches of rainfall per year. 

Bougainvillea grows well in rich, well drained, acidic 

(pH 5.5–6.0) soil. It does not thrive in soil that is constantly 

wet. Proper soil pH is essential because it affects 

the availability of mineral elements. A soil pH above 

6.0 increases the possibility of micronutrient deficiencies, 

particularly iron. Bougainvillea is drought tolerant, 

salt tolerant, and wind resistant. 

Bougainvillea is very susceptible to girdling during a 

storm. The bark will rub off at ground level when stems 

whip in high-speed winds. The plant is slow to recover 

from this, compared to other shrubs. If girdling is severe, 

the entire plant will wilt a few days after a storm. 

It should not be planted in extremely windy, unprotected 

areas. 

Landscape uses 

Bougainvillea’s growth habit and beautiful showy bracts 

make it a popular plant for landscapes. It is used in mass 

plantings, as shrubs or bushes, and as ground cover on 

banks. Bougainvillea provides hedges, barriers, and 

slope coverings. For large, difficult-to-maintain areas, 

bougainvillea is an excellent ground cover. It can cover 

a whole hillside and will choke out weed growth. Dwarf 

cultivars make colorful ground covers. 

Bougainvillea can be trained as a “standard,” a small 

flowering tree with a single trunk (photo above), over 

arbors, into espaliers, onto walls, or to cascade down a 

slope. Bougainvillea is used as an accent plant, a specimen 

plant, in hanging baskets, in containers, and for 

bonsai. 

Give plants enough room to grow to maturity without 

being crowded. Most cultivars do well 6–9 feet apart. 

Smaller cultivars can be planted closer together, at 3–5foot 

spacing. Bouganvillea should not be planted within 

4 feet of walkways, as the thorns could catch unsuspecting 

passersby. 

In Hawai‘i, flowering is heaviest from September to 

April. Flowering is promoted by short daylengths. In 

addition, cultural practices are important to ensure satisfactory 

floweringæavoid overwatering, overfertilizing 

with nitrogen, putting plants in heavy shade, and pruning 

too frequently. The flowering peak in Guam occurs 

during the dry months, March through May. 

3


Culture 

Watering 

Bougainvillea tolerates drying and if possible irrigation 

should be adjusted to be a little on the dry side. They are 

sensitive to overwatering but should not be allowed to 

completely dry out. 

Fertilizer 

For best results, use organic fertilizer amendments or 

controlled-release fertilizers to moderate nitrogen release. 

At planting, amend the soil with a fertilizer high 

in phosphate. For long-term culture, topdressing with a 

controlled-release fertilizer is needed. Do not overfertilize. 

Too much fertilizer will promote vegetative growth 

and inhibit blooming. 

Bougainvillea needs regular fertilizing with formulations 

having NPK ratios of 1:1:1 or 2:1:2. Applications 

of soluble minor elements help prevent leaf chlorosis. 

Micronutrient applications can be half the recommended 

rate, twice a year. 

Pruning 

Bougainvillea responds well to pruning. Unless they are 

pruned regularly, bougainvillea grows into a tangled 

mass of old and new growth, and overcrowding often 

leads to pests and diseases. To prevent overcrowding, 

cut out any unneeded shoots. Cut all lateral shoots back 

to within two or three buds of the main stems. These 

will bear the new flowers and bracts. 

Regular pruning is necessary to shape the plant and 

direct its growth because the shoots often grow vigorously. 

Flowers are borne on new growth, so pinching 

back and pruning is necessary to induce new growth. 

Pruning should be done after flowering has finished, as 

this encourages the new growth on which the next flush 

of flowers will occur. 

To reduce the size of plants, cut them back by about a 

third, removing all spindly and twiggy growth. Prune 

suckers from the plant’s base to encourage topgrowth. 

Dead wood should be removed as it appears. The long 

shoots can be trained in various shapes and heights— 

espalliers, arbors, twisted or braided trunks, or even 

large, fanciful animals. 

4 

Controlling timing of flowering 

Environment 

Bougainvillea will flower sooner and more profusely 

with high light intensities, moderate temperatures, and 

longer nights. Short daylengths enhance flowering: 8– 

11-hour daylengths with high light intensity and temperatures 

above 58–64°F. Heavy shade inhibits flowering. 

Drought stress can stimulate flowering even under 

long daylengths. Growers frequently allow plants to dry 

just to the point of wilting to induce flowering. Use care, 

because excessive drying can cause leaf drop and dormancy. 

Cultural practices 

Pruning plants too frequently will inhibit flowering. Too 

much fertilizer will add growth but inhibit blooming. 

Nitrogen and phosphate are critical to flowering, but do 

not overfertilize. Keep soil moisture on the dry side. 

Pot culture 

Light 

Plants should be placed in bright light or near a window 

with at least 4000 foot-candles of light. In low-light interior 

environments, their high light requirement leads 

to leaf drop. Bracts will be a lighter color than those 

grown in full sunshine. 

As a point of reference, the amount of light at noon 

on a clear summer day is approximately 10,000 footcandles. 

On an overcast winter day, it may be as low as 

500 foot-candles. Indoors, on a clear summer afternoon, 

the direct sun entering a window may be 4000–8000 

foot-candles, but the level will be only about 600 footcandles 

in the shade to the sides of the window. The 

natural light indoors on the shady side of a house may 

be 150–250 foot-candles, depending on the amount of 

window area and the presence of eaves, window blinds, 

or curtains. 

Media 

Any well drained potting medium is suitable for growing 

bougainvillea. A 1:1 (by volume) peat:perlite medium 

is suitable. If more weight is needed to stabilize 

the pot, man-made sand or soil may be added. The medium 

needs to be well drained to prevent a poor root 

system and reduced flowering. Avoid media with high 

peat content and water-retention levels. These types of


media retain too much water and will contribute to root 

rot. Media pH should be 5.5–6.0. 

Watering 

Plants should be watered when the medium surface becomes 

dry. Close attention is needed because it is easy 

for plants to use up the available moisture in the pots. 

The amount of water needed depends on the medium 

type, environmental conditions, size of the plant, and 

pot size. Watering well but less frequently is better than 

frequent, light waterings. 

Fertilizing 

In pot cultivation, an evenly balanced controlled-release 

fertilizer (e.g., 8-8-8 or 10-10-10) can be applied every 

three months. Water-soluble fertilizer formulations can 

be applied weekly or bi-weekly at half-strength to provide 

a low nutrient concentration. 

Pruning 

Frequent pruning helps maintain the desired plant size 

and shape and keeps new growth soft and thorns to a 

minimum. Frequent cutting back promotes constant 

flushing of new growth and flowers. 

Prune young plants to encourage a framework of 

strong shoots emerging from the base of the plant. Prune 

and shape plants after they flower, keeping them about 

3 feet high and removing all spindly and twiggy growth. 

Cut out any weak or damaged growth. 

Growth regulators 

To induce lateral branching, applications of BA 

(benzyladenine) at 50–100 ppm can be made when the 

plant tips are pinched back. Apply one spray 24 hours 

after the first pinch and another 24 hours after the second 

pinch. Dikegulac sodium at 2 ounces/gallon can be 

used in lieu of the second pinch-plus-BA application to 

improve branching. Atrimmec ® , a commercial formulation 

of dikegulac sodium (18.5% active ingredient), has 

been used at 1 ounce/gallon. Sprays should be applied 

to unpinched shoots when they reach 3 inches or to 

pruned plants three days after pruning. Avoid treating 

plants that are under stress. 

To retard growth, Cycocel ® (chlormequat) has been 

used on potted bougainvillea as a soil drench at 0.01– 

0.02 ounce per pot when the axillary buds swell following 

the first pinch. A-Rest (ancymidol) and Bonzi ® 

(paclobutrazol) are also effective. Use paclobutrazol at 

20–40 ppm when plants are near salable size. 

To prevent bract abscission, use the sodium salt of 

NAA (naphthaleneacetic acid) as a spray or dip at 10– 

30 ppm. At the higher rate, NAA may promote abscission 

of immature bracts. 

It is recommended that you test plant growth regulators 

on just a few plants before extensive use. Always follow 

label instructions. If label application rates or methods 

differ from those given above, follow the label. 

Propagation 

Cuttings 

Softwood terminals, maturing green wood, and matured 

intermediate wood stem pieces can be used for propagation. 

Stem cuttings should be 1 ⁄8 inch or more thick 

and should have at least three to five nodes. Leaves may 

be left on the cuttings during rooting, but remove leaves 

from portions of the stem that are under the surface of 

the rooting medium. 

Use a well drained rooting medium such as a 1:1 (by 

volume) peat:perlite mixture. Other rooting media such 

as man-made sand and peat or coir (coconut fiber) work 

well. Insert cuttings 1–2 inches into the medium and 

water thoroughly. Cuttings may be rooted directly in 

small pots or Jiffy-7s. Several cuttings may be rooted 

together in larger pots 5–6 inches in diameter. Foam 

propagation blocks may also be used. 

Softwood terminals of easy-to-root cultivars do not 

require a rooting hormone. With more mature wood, a 

rooting hormone such as IBA (3-indolebutryic acid) at 

2000–6000 ppm is commonly used. Higher concentrations 

may be needed with more difficult-to-root cultivars. 

Intermittent misting is commonly used to prevent 

desiccation during rooting. Cuttings should not be allowed 

to wilt. 

Time to rooting is about 4–12 weeks, depending on 

the cultivar and the use of a rooting hormone. Transplant 

young plants with caution to avoid damaging their 

brittle roots. A broad-spectrum fungicide drench applied 

when planting cuttings and again after transplanting 

helps prevent root rot. 

Leaf-bud cuttings 

Leaf-bud cuttings can be used when source material is 

limited. Each node can be used as a cutting. The cutting, 

taken from shoots that are partially matured, consists 

of a leaf blade and a short piece of the stem (1–1 1 ⁄2 

5


inches) with the attached axillary bud. Cut the stem section 

about 1 ⁄2–1 inch above and below the point of leaf 

attachment. Place the bud vertically in a rooting medium 

and lightly cover it ( 1 ⁄4 inch) so that only the leaf 

blade can be seen. 

Grafting 

Some cultivars that have little or no chlorophyll in their 

leaves are difficult to grow from cuttings and need to be 

grafted onto a vigorous rootstock to be propagated. Grafting 

is useful with delicate cultivars that have fragile root 

systems. It is also used when it is desired to have multiple 

cultivars on one plant. 

The scion should be free of disease. The rootstock 

could be a seedling or a rooted cutting of an existing, 

established plant. All cut surfaces should be covered with 

grafting wax once the join is made to prevent moisture 

loss. Remove shoots from the rootstock. Put the grafted 

plant in a humid environment so the scion does not dry 

out. 

Various kinds of grafts may be used, including wedge, 

whip or tongue, or approach graft. 

Seeds 

Seeds germinate readily and require no treatments to 

break dormancy. 

Pests and diseases 

Contact the nearest Cooperative Extension Service office 

for assistance in identifying and recommendations 

for control of the various pests and diseases listed in the 

table on p. 8–9. 

Use in adornment 

Bougainvillea bracts are commonly used in lei making. 

Clip clusters of bracts, preferably in the early morning, 

and transport them in a paper or cloth bag. Wash with a 

cold-water soak. Bracts can be wrapped in damp newspaper, 

placed in a plastic container or paper box, and 

stored in a refrigerator at 40°F for up to 14 days. 

Bougainvillea bracts are also used in haku (in Guam, 

mwar mwar), traditional, lei-like headbands made of 

leaves and flowers. 

6 

Acknowledgement 

Thanks go to Scot Nelson and Edwin Mersino for reviewing 

the manuscript. 

References 

Bradley, S. 2005. The pruner’s bible: A step-by-step 

guide to pruning every plant in your garden. Rodale, 

Inc., Emmaus, PA. 

Criley, R.A. 1997. Bougainvillea. In: M.L. Gaston, S.A. 

Carver, C.A. Irwin, and R.A. Larson (eds.), Tips on 

growing specialty potted crops. Ohio Florists’ Association, 

Columbus, OH. 

Gilman, E.F. 1999. Bougainvillea spp. Cooperative Extension 

Service, University of Florida, Fact Sheet 

FPS-70. 

Growing plants for Hawaiian lei: 85 plants for gardens, 

conservation, and business. 2002. University of 

Hawai‘i at Mänoa, College of Tropical Agriculture 

and Human Resources (CTAHR). 

Hackett, W.P., R.M. Sachs, and J. DeBie. 1972. Growing 

bougainvillea as a flowering pot plant. California 

Agriculture 26(8):12–13. 

Hamilton, D.F., and J.T. Midcap. 2003. Propagation of 

woody ornamentals by cuttings. Cooperative Extension 

Service, University of Florida. 

Iredell, J. 1994. Growing bougainvilleas. Simon & 

Schuster Australia. East Roseville, NSW, Australia. 

Neal, M.C. 1965. In gardens of Hawaii. Bishop Museum 

Press, Honolulu. 

Pertuit, A. 1999. Bougainvilleas. Cooperative Extension 

Service, Clemson University, Home & Garden Information 

Center HGIC 1553. 

Schoellhorn, R., and E. Alvarez. 2002. Warm climate 

production guidelines for bougainvillea. Cooperative 

Extension Service, University of Florida, ENH 874. 

Tavares, J., D. Hensley, J. Deputy, D. Tsuda, and A. Hara. 

1998. Bougainvillea looper. CTAHR publication IP-2. 

Teho, F. 1971. Plants of Hawaii: How to grow them. 

The Petroglyph Press, Hilo, HI. 

Watson, D.P., and R.A. Criley. 1973. Bougainvilleas. 

CTAHR Circular 469.


Internode length and landscape characteristics 

Internode length has a strong influence on bougainvillea 

growth habit and characteristics in the landscape. Compare 

the distance between bract nodes on the upper two 

stems, from the same plant, with the stem from a different 

plant, below. (The tiles are 10 inches square.) 

Here is the plant with the shorter internodes, compact and 

easily shaped and maintained in the landscape. 

Here is the plant with the longer internodes; note its exuberant 

growth habit. Highly colorful at some times of year, 

it is capable of climbing 30–40 feet into the Norfolk Island 

Pine behind it. Maintanence can be laborious. 

7


Pests, diseases, and physiological problems 

Problem Description Symptoms Control 

aphids Small, rounded or pear- Aphids suck the sap, causing Insecticidal soap is the safest and most effective 

shaped, soft bodied speckles on the foliage, control strategy. Controlling the ants will go a long 

insects. Clustered on reduced color, stunting, way in helping to control aphids, as well as 

stems, leaves, buds, and wilting, and deformed leaves. scales and mealybugs. Ants move these insects 

flowers. Usually found on In severe cases, leaf loss around and harvest the honeydew they exude. 

new growth. Most aphids occurs. Ants also protect these insects from predators 

have a pair of tube-like and parasites. 

cornicles on the posterior 

of the abdomen. 

bougainvillea Green or brown smooth Leaves are eaten. Severe Bacillus thuringiensis (BT) insecticide. Neemloopers 

skin caterpillar, one inch scalloping of leaves. As the based biological insecticide products. Most 

(Disclisioprocta long. Feeds primarily at population multiplies, plants synthetic insecticides with labels permitting use 

stellata) night. can be defoliated. against caterpillars on land-scape ornamentals. 

Organic insecticide Spinosad. Spraying late in 

the evening, when caterpillars and adult moths 

are active, is recommended. 

grasshoppers Grasshoppers are easy to These insects occasionally Spray plants with an insecticide registered for 

see and should be consume large quantities of ornamental plants. 

controlled before they foliage. Their feeding leaves 

become numerous. an irregular appearance. 

mealybugs White, cottony masses Mealybugs suck plant Systemic insecticides are preferred. Horticultural 

found in leaf axils, on juices. Infested plants oil can be used, but the label should be followed 

underside of leaves, on become stunted, and plant to avoid burning the leaves and flowers. Burning 

roots, and other protected parts may die. Honey-dew may occur if the concentra-tion is too high or if 

areas. and sooty mold are often the plants are sprayed in the heat of the day. 

present. HDOA is releasing predator insects that should 

help control mealybugs in the future. 

mites These small pests feed on Feeding causes curling, Minimize the possibility of introducing mites into 

young new growth. Most puckering, deformity, the growing area on infested plant material. 

mites are very small and distortion, and bronzing. Eliminate weeds that are alternate hosts. Ultra 

difficult to see even with a Wilting may occur. fine oil, insecticidal soap, or neem may also be 

hand lens. used. Wash foliage with a strong spray of cold 

water. Wash the plants with soapy water and a 

soft brush or cloth to remove insects. 

reniform Microscopic parasitic Poor growth, stunted, The goal is to manage their population, reducing 

nematodes roundworms that live in chlorotic (yellow) foliage; their numbers below damaging levels. 

and feed on roots, premature wilting, low vigor, Incorporate good compost or organic materials, 

damaging roots and thin canopy, and leaf and/or such as manure or wood shavings, into the soil 

preventing normal uptake bloom loss under relatively as a preplant amendment to encourage microbial 

of water and nutrients. mild stress; swollen, activity to depress nematode populations. Grow 

knotted, gnarled areas on French marigolds, tilling it in as green mulch. 

the roots. Solarization, the heating of soil by using clear 

plastic tarps to increase and trap the sun’s heat, 

can be an effective means of controlling 

nematodes in the soil. 

8


Problem 

scales 

(Coccus 

hesperidium) 

whiteflies 

leaf spots* 

root rots 

(Rhizoctonia, 

Pythium, and 

Phytophthora) 

chlorosis 

Description 

Scales are sedentary 

insects that are covered by 

a hard protective covering 

(shell) or waxy secretion. 

Appear on leaves, petioles, 

or stems. 

Sap-feeding insects that 

feed on undersides of 

leaves. Whiteflies are tiny; 

the adults resemble white 

moths. The immature 

stages look like scale 

insects. 

Bacteria and fungi cause 

leaf spots. Can be a 

problem in prolonged wet 

conditions. 

Fungal diseases of 

bougainvillea roots, 

resulting in their 

malfunction and decay. 

May attack cuttings during 

propagation. Pythium and 

Phytophthora are classified 

as fungus-like organisms. 

A lack of normal green 

pigmentation in the foliage 

generally due to deficiency 

of one or more micronutrients 

(usually magnesium 

or iron) or root rot. 

Chlorosis could indicate a 

pathogenic attack of the 

roots or foliage, which can 

mimic a nutritional 

deficiency such as nitrogen. 

Symptoms 

Scales suck plant juices. 

They appear as raised or 

brown bumps (scales) which 

give stems or leaves a lumpy 

appearance. Feeding causes 

a characteristic yellow or 

chlorotic streak that radiates 

from point of attachment. 

Infested leaves often have 

small yellow spots where 

adults or immature whiteflies 

have fed. When populations 

become dense, the leaves 

become yellow and lower 

leaves are covered with 

black sooty mold. 

Small, reddish, round spots 

on the leaves. Spots are 

usually surrounded by a 

“halo” of pale green and 

rapidly expand to become 

irregular dark patches. 

Defoliation may occur. 

Wilting, dieback, stunting, 

chlorosis of foliage. 

Pale green leaves with dark 

green veins; yellowing of the 

foliage. 

Control 

Horticultural oils work well. A systemic insecticide 

may have to be used against scales. Control the 

ants that move the scales around and farm them. 

Wash the plants with soapy water and a soft 

brush or cloth to remove insects. Thoroughly 

wash undersides of leaves where pests may also 

reside. Remove with alcohol-saturated cotton 

swab. 

Many insecticides are registered for and effective 

at controlling whiteflies. Undersides of leaves 

must be covered thoroughly to achieve 

satisfactory control. Successive sprays of 

insecticidal soaps, oils, or synthetic pyrethrum. 

Various broad-spectrum fungicides may be used. 

Remove all dead leaves and reduce crowding 

between plants. Discard infected plants. Try to 

avoid overhead sprinkling and late afternoon 

watering. 

Remove and destroy symptomatic plants as soon 

as they are found. For Rhizoctonia, apply a 

broad-spectrum fungicide drench during 

transplanting or planting in the landscape. Use a 

metalaxyl or phosphorus acid-based product for 

Pythium or Phytophthora. Avoid overwatering. 

Avoid planting in heavy soils. 

Acidify the soil with aluminum sulfate, iron 

sulfate, or wettable sulfur. An acidulating 

houseplant fertilizer can be used to lower the soil 

pH. An application of a complete micronutrient 

blend or chelated spray should help. Allow the 

soil to remain evenly moist but not saturated. 

Remove excess plants in a hedge. 

*(Pseudomonas stizilobii, Burkholderia andropogonis, Cercosporidium bougainvilleae, Colletotrichum dematium forma bougainvillae, 

Gladosporum arthrinoides) 

Note: Read and follow manufacturers’ directions on labels. The pesticides mentioned are possible options for control, but mention of them 

should not be considered a recommendation. Licensing for sale and use of pesticide formulations varies from state to state and country to 

country. The pesticide label is the law. Read it before purchasing a pesticide to ensure that the product is registered for your intended use. 

Read the label entirely before use and follow its instructions. Mention in this publication to a company or product name does not imply 

recommendation of the product or company to the exclusion of others that may also be suitable. 

9


Cultivars (varieties) 

Cultivar Bract color Comments 

Afterglow Yellow-orange Sparse foliage. Bracts turn a dusty rose color when old. Heavy bloomer. 

Barbara Karst Bright red A popular cultivar that performs well. Moderate to vigorous growth. 

Leaves dull, dark green, broadly ovate with pointed tips, slightly wavy 

margins. A constant bloomer. Flowers white and conspicuous. Thorns 

medium and straight. 

Bois-de-Rose Dusty pink Vigorous growth. Dark green furry leaves. Thorns large, slightly recurved. 

California Gold Gold, yellow Nice vining habit. Large long-lasting rich gold bracts; can appear yellow 

in some environments. 

Crimson Jewel Crimson, pink, orange Dwarf. Good container plant and ground cover. 

Double Pink Pink Huge clusters of bright pink double bracts. Repeat bloomer. 

Double Red Deep red Clusters of fluffy double bracts over nice green leaves. 

Dr. David Barry Lavender-pink Round shrubby vigorous cultivar with long elliptic leaves tapering to a 

(Singapore Pink, pointed tip. Very large elliptic reflex bracts. Flowers prominent, cream. 

Singapore Beauty) Thorns short, not prominent. Fine for containers. 

Elizabeth Angus Purple Vigorous growing. Leaves dark green, glossy, and tapering. Young 

stems puberulent. Bracts large. Flowers yellowish, large, and 

conspicuous. Thorns stout, long, recurved. 

Golden Glow Bright gold, pinkish-gold Vigorous and erect. Leaves rounded and large. Bracts broadly ovate. 

(Millarii, Gold Queen, 

Hawaiian Gold) 

Thorns medium and straight. 

Golden Summers White Variegated yellow-gold and green foliage. Large bracts. Repeat 

(Miss Oneuse) bloomer. Thorns medium and slightly curved. 

Helen Johnson Reddish-purple, A dwarf compact bushy grower about three feet tall and wide. Branches 

(Temple Fire) opening slightly coppery freely. Leaves are small, broadly ovate, sharply pointed at apex; margins 

slightly wavy. Bracts sparse, broadly ovate, pointed apex. Thorns small, 

short, slender. Good for hanging baskets and as a ground cover. 

Jamaica White White with flush of pink Medium grower. Leaves large, rounded, dark green, and smooth. Bracts 

(Apple Blossom, 

Audrey Grey) 

medium size. Very pretty but rather shy flowering. Thorns medium. 

Jane Snook Pink Compact, dense. Tends to be pendulous with some vigorous canes. 

(Durban, President) Leaves long and light green with long petioles. Bracts large with ruffled 

edges. Flowers large and greenish-cream. Thorns medium and fine. 

John Lattin Iridescent pale lavender Erect leggy grower. Leaves long, ovate, medium green, glossy, and 

pointed at tips. Bracts taper to a long point at apex. Flowers moderate in 

size, greenish-cream. Thorns long and curved. 

Juanita Hatten Bright red, dark pink Moderate growth habit; branches freely. Foliage may be slightly 

variegated in shades of green. Attractive mid-green, ovate leaves with 

slightly wavy margins. Bracts ovate, medium to large. Tends to be everblooming. 

Flowers prominent and creamy-white. Thorns moderate and 

only slightly recurved. Good for hanging baskets. 

Killie Campbell Copper, red, magenta Large-growing, pendulous. Leaves dark green, long, ovate, margins 

wavy, tapering to long-pointed apex. Petiole long. Bracts large, thintextured, 

and ruffled. Flowers large, conspicuous. Thorns long, straight. 

Lady Hudson Pale pink Long canes often bear of leaves especially when young. Leaves broadly 

(Princess Margaret Rose) ovate with long petioles, light green, and glabrous. Bracts small, ruffled. 

10



Lateritia Brick-red Dense, shrubby, slow growing. Leaves medium size, furry. Bracts 

(Dar-es-Salaam) medium size. Flowers conspicuous, creamy-white. Thorns medium, curved. 

Lady Mary Baring Bright yellow Growth erect and open. Leaves large, rounded, dark green. Bracts 

(Yellow Glory, medium size, rounded. Flowers not conspicuous. Thorns medium, stout, 

Hawaiian Yellow) and straight. 

Meriol Fitzpatrick Pale, shimmering Bushy. Leaves dark green and elliptic. Bracts thin, ovate, tapering, with 

(Dream) lavender slightly ruffled margins. Flowers medium in size, creamy-white. 

Thorns medium and recurved. 

Miami Pink Dark pink Does best in landscapes. 

Miss Manila Golden-orange, Vigorous, cascading, dense habit. New growth coppery. Leaves ovate, 

(Tango) apricot, light pink light to medium green. Bracts large, whorled, rounded at apex, slightly 

ruffled. Flowers large and prominent, cream. Thorns medium to strong, 

straight. 

Mrs. Butt Red to peach Habit loose and upright, vigorous. Leaves large and rounded with a 

(Dame Clara Butt, short sharp point at apex. Bracts medium size, broadly ovate. Repeat 

Crimson Lake) bloomer. Flowers prominent, white with a tinge of pink or red. Thorns 

medium, stout, and straight. 

Mrs. McClean Bright orange Erect growth. Leaves large, rounded. Bracts medium size. Flowers not 

(Hawaiian Orange, 

Orange Glory) 

conspicuous, cream. Thorns medium, stout, and straight. 

Oo-La-La Purple Compact, small to moderate growth, bushy. Canes short. New growth 

(Poultoni) copper-red. Leaves broadly ovate, pointed apex, slightly wavy margins. 

Bracts moderately large with acute apex. Bracts open copper-red, 

become magenta-red, and finally have a bluish appearance. Cream 

flowers are conspicuous. Thorns few, small, slightly curved. 

Orange Fiesta Pumpkin Luminous bracts have hints of pink and salmon. Allowing plants to wilt 

slightly encourages more blossoms. 

Pink Pixie Pink, magenta-red True miniature. Small leathery leaves, internodes very short, and leaves 

(Hawaiian Torch, crowded. Bracts small and densely packed. Flowers prominent, small, 

Smartipants) and white. Thorns short, stubby, and blunt. Good for small pots. 

Raspberry Ice Red Compact, bushy grower. New shoots reddish. Leaves small to medium, 

(Hawaii, ovate, tapered to a pointed apex, margins wavy. Variegated foliage with 

Tropical Rainbow) cream to golden yellow margins, dark grayish-green center. Bracts 

medium, ovate. Repeat bloomer. Thorns short, thin, and straight. 

Rosa Catalina Rosy pink Dense, busy, and vigorous. Leaves ovate, furry, tapering to a point. 

Bracts medium, ovate with pointed apex. Flowers prominent. 

Thorns medium, stout. 

Royal Purple Dark purple Good replacement for Elizabeth Angus in humid areas. 

Scarlet O’Hara Orange, dark red Loose, upright, vigorous with strong canes. New growth dark red, 

(San Diego Red, slightly puberulent. Leaves very large, rounded, dark green, thick- 

Hawaiian Scarlet) textured. Bracts nearly round and very large. Flowers conspicuous, 

cream, large. Many thorns, medium, recurved. 

Summer Snow White Large bracts. Excellent for weddings. Does well in hanging baskets. 

Sundown Apricot Vigorous. Good bloomer. Heavy feeder. 

Surprise (Mary Palmer) Pink and white Grows large. Leaves large and mid-green. 

Sweet Dream Pale lavender Leaves completely gold. Thornless. 

11



Texas Dawn Light purple-pink Loose, open habit. Leaves large and rounded. Bracts rounded, medium 

(Purple King, size. Flowers not conspicuous, creamy-white. Thorns medium to long, 

Robyn’s Glory) stout, and slight recurved. 

Tropical Bouquet Orange, pink Compact and bushy. Bracts orange but quickly become pink. 

Variegata Variegated foliage. 

Vickie Pink, white Leaves have a large splash of gold or creamy yellow in the center. 

(Vicky, Vicki, Thimma) Some white bracts may be sported. 

Other cultivars include Carmencita, Betty Hendry, Bridal Bouquet, Buttiana, Carmencita, Closeburn, Convent, Doubloon, Dream, 

Dulci Dayborn, Easter Parade, Fascelles Purple, Gillian Greensmith, Gopal, Harrissi, Hugh Evans, India, Indica, Indian Flame, 

Jubilee, Lacquer Red, Lemner’s Special, Lilac Queen, Lyamunga No. 2, New River, Orange King, Pink Champagne, Purple 

Prince, Rao, Red Glory, Rhodomine, Rose Pink, San Diego Red, William Paulton, and Yellow Glory. 

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