Part I
My progress on cleaning, fixing and rebuilding the Sega Rally 3 I picked up from Williams amusements...
I'd got an ID project cab but I've always fancied an LCD driver - then "Breakfastclub68" put a partially stripped one up on ebay for £275 BIN or offers.
I asked if they could confirm if the screen worked or if any of the pcb's were still in the base - All I got back was "Dunno - that's how it arrived to us" so I made an offer of £150, it was declined....
The auction looped round a few times with no bids and then it was listed with a £95 start price but still no extra pictures to show what was inside.
So I went over the pictures with a fine tooth-comb looking at was obviously missing and having to deduce what might have been removed.
1) Top right indicator panel.
2) Marquee (not bothered too much about that).
3) button on dash - alarm bells ring at this point, they've had the dash off is the force-feedback still there.
4) Bolts holding the dash in place.
5) Game PCB & PSU
What i did spot is the number of loose wires in the base roughly matched what would plug into the game PCB and PSU so hopefully the 8 pcb's that are under the foot plate were still there.
So worst case I could transplant the looms and dash from the ID cab into this one and I would be buying a monitor stand & seat.
I left it until the last couple of minutes and dropped a bid of £125 on it and won for the opening bid of £95 - then I found out it was to be collected from the Williams unit
(it's going to be a shed), made a quick call to Martin and result he was in the area so he picked it up and dropped it off a few days later while the wife was away on business.
So here's were the real work begins...
Measured it and it was 4" too wide to fit through the door into my games room - so job number one, remove the monitor and marquee so it'll fit through the door.
after a bit of head scratching as when I removed the nuts holding the LCD panel case in place it wouldn't come off I resorted to undoing the bolts that connected the marquee to the rear red poles and undid the four bolts that held the top of the dash on - result the whole top bit comes off!
After a bit of cab Tetris to get it into the workshop/games side of the garage I'm ready to check what's there give it a quick clean and re-assemble what I can.
I'm basically going to check what's there give it a quick clean and re-assemble what I can.
First up the PCB tray under the pedals.
Looks promising - no loose wires and everything seems to be there, I'll need to get a brush & hoover on it.
1) Feedback motor controller - looks like a standard Happ 270 FFB PCB
2) Stereo amp - standard Sega 2-channel amp, no sub-woofer output
3) Sega i/o board - Hmmm that's not JVS, on closer inspection its a USB i/o PCB (Sega version of an A-Pac)
4) Power supplies - All present and correct, Amp, FFB & I/O PSU's
5) Cables to Europa-R PC - USB for pedals/wheel/handbrake/buttons, VGA for screen, 2.5mm jackplug for audio & Printer port lead for FFB
So Everything's there apart from the Europa-R PC, PSU & rear cooling fan.
Turing my attention to the outside of the cab there's some obvious bits missing, and the rear door on the screen mount was bent & hanging off so that set alarm bells ringing.
After a good 3-4 hours cleaning the crap out of the cab and checking there were no loose nuts/bolts/washers inside and that it was earthed, correct voltage, fused & electrically safe I reassembled the main body of the cab (minus some trim - see later).
Missing bits so far:-
Lets fix the easiest bit (and more importantly find out if the screen works).
According to the manual the missing PSU is a 400-150-024-01 which is a "SW regu LPP-150-24" and is 24VDC output. I assume the 150 is 150W so it's a 24V @ 6.25A PSU.
I purchased a MW T-180-24 from eBay and made an adapter so it'd fit the existing loom.
Fired the screen up and fed it a test signal and it worked first time.
Not the best of tests - but it works, downside is when I used my laptop the panel only goes up to 720P.
Current shopping list.
To do list:-
As you can't do much without a VTS PCB (even the speakers don't work) the next Job is to wire one up. This is where I struck it lucky - I had a single VTS PCB, I don't even know where I got it from but I had one in the bits box, then...Bummer
The VTS PCB wiring looms were missing, and nothing I had would fit the plugs in the cab. So delve into the bits box for some connectors that would fit and a bit of googlefoo.....
I downloaded the Sega Rally 3 manual and skipped to the schematic at the end.
Which I've compared to the pin out from AO (Initial D VTS PCB).
So my adapter needs to be wired:-
Plug it all together and hopefully it'll work.
So what happens when I power it up?
Not a lot... Which is good, the power in the garage stayed on (always a good sign) and there was no puff of smoke, smell of burning or any other signs of woe. As I didn't have anything to drive the screen plugged in it remained blank, the FL tube in the marquee flickered but wouldn't light, tried another tube & starter - still nothing so it's probably dead, I can replace it with an LED one later....
So out came the trust old iPod mini, plugged the 2.5mm stereo plug in and pressed play - very quite music started playing, turned the pot on the VTS PCB for volume #1 and it got louder - Yes, my loom works and the amp does too. Just the i/o & FFB to test.
Gave the dash a good clean and refitted it (the Credit button was missing so I took the dremmel to an old starpoint button and trimmed the lugs so they would fit the small spade terminals on the loom.
So this is as far as I'd got on J+
---------
Europa-R PC Specs.
penrhos2018-06-05 18:40:41
My progress on cleaning, fixing and rebuilding the Sega Rally 3 I picked up from Williams amusements...
I'd got an ID project cab but I've always fancied an LCD driver - then "Breakfastclub68" put a partially stripped one up on ebay for £275 BIN or offers.
I asked if they could confirm if the screen worked or if any of the pcb's were still in the base - All I got back was "Dunno - that's how it arrived to us" so I made an offer of £150, it was declined....
The auction looped round a few times with no bids and then it was listed with a £95 start price but still no extra pictures to show what was inside.
So I went over the pictures with a fine tooth-comb looking at was obviously missing and having to deduce what might have been removed.
1) Top right indicator panel.
2) Marquee (not bothered too much about that).
3) button on dash - alarm bells ring at this point, they've had the dash off is the force-feedback still there.
4) Bolts holding the dash in place.
5) Game PCB & PSU
What i did spot is the number of loose wires in the base roughly matched what would plug into the game PCB and PSU so hopefully the 8 pcb's that are under the foot plate were still there.
So worst case I could transplant the looms and dash from the ID cab into this one and I would be buying a monitor stand & seat.
I left it until the last couple of minutes and dropped a bid of £125 on it and won for the opening bid of £95 - then I found out it was to be collected from the Williams unit
So here's were the real work begins...
Measured it and it was 4" too wide to fit through the door into my games room - so job number one, remove the monitor and marquee so it'll fit through the door.
after a bit of head scratching as when I removed the nuts holding the LCD panel case in place it wouldn't come off I resorted to undoing the bolts that connected the marquee to the rear red poles and undid the four bolts that held the top of the dash on - result the whole top bit comes off!
After a bit of cab Tetris to get it into the workshop/games side of the garage I'm ready to check what's there give it a quick clean and re-assemble what I can.
I'm basically going to check what's there give it a quick clean and re-assemble what I can.
First up the PCB tray under the pedals.
Looks promising - no loose wires and everything seems to be there, I'll need to get a brush & hoover on it.
1) Feedback motor controller - looks like a standard Happ 270 FFB PCB
2) Stereo amp - standard Sega 2-channel amp, no sub-woofer output
3) Sega i/o board - Hmmm that's not JVS, on closer inspection its a USB i/o PCB (Sega version of an A-Pac)
4) Power supplies - All present and correct, Amp, FFB & I/O PSU's
5) Cables to Europa-R PC - USB for pedals/wheel/handbrake/buttons, VGA for screen, 2.5mm jackplug for audio & Printer port lead for FFB
So Everything's there apart from the Europa-R PC, PSU & rear cooling fan.
Turing my attention to the outside of the cab there's some obvious bits missing, and the rear door on the screen mount was bent & hanging off so that set alarm bells ringing.
After a good 3-4 hours cleaning the crap out of the cab and checking there were no loose nuts/bolts/washers inside and that it was earthed, correct voltage, fused & electrically safe I reassembled the main body of the cab (minus some trim - see later).
Missing bits so far:-
Lets fix the easiest bit (and more importantly find out if the screen works).
According to the manual the missing PSU is a 400-150-024-01 which is a "SW regu LPP-150-24" and is 24VDC output. I assume the 150 is 150W so it's a 24V @ 6.25A PSU.
I purchased a MW T-180-24 from eBay and made an adapter so it'd fit the existing loom.
Fired the screen up and fed it a test signal and it worked first time.
Not the best of tests - but it works, downside is when I used my laptop the panel only goes up to 720P.
Current shopping list.
To do list:-
As you can't do much without a VTS PCB (even the speakers don't work) the next Job is to wire one up. This is where I struck it lucky - I had a single VTS PCB, I don't even know where I got it from but I had one in the bits box, then...Bummer
The VTS PCB wiring looms were missing, and nothing I had would fit the plugs in the cab. So delve into the bits box for some connectors that would fit and a bit of googlefoo.....
I downloaded the Sega Rally 3 manual and skipped to the schematic at the end.
Which I've compared to the pin out from AO (Initial D VTS PCB).
So my adapter needs to be wired:-
Plug it all together and hopefully it'll work.
So what happens when I power it up?
Not a lot... Which is good, the power in the garage stayed on (always a good sign) and there was no puff of smoke, smell of burning or any other signs of woe. As I didn't have anything to drive the screen plugged in it remained blank, the FL tube in the marquee flickered but wouldn't light, tried another tube & starter - still nothing so it's probably dead, I can replace it with an LED one later....
So out came the trust old iPod mini, plugged the 2.5mm stereo plug in and pressed play - very quite music started playing, turned the pot on the VTS PCB for volume #1 and it got louder - Yes, my loom works and the amp does too. Just the i/o & FFB to test.
Gave the dash a good clean and refitted it (the Credit button was missing so I took the dremmel to an old starpoint button and trimmed the lugs so they would fit the small spade terminals on the loom.
So this is as far as I'd got on J+
---------
Europa-R PC Specs.
penrhos2018-06-05 18:40:41
