Sitting at the heart of Turkey’s turquoise coast, Fethiye offers up stunning landscapes, adrenaline-filled adventure and a well-developed tourism infrastructure catering to every type of traveller. Its main town has escaped the overdevelopment that has sadly blighted many of Turkey’s other holiday hotspots, and has retained its traditional charm while still being packed with places to eat, drink and shop. Further afield you’ll find plenty of all-inclusive resorts as well as smaller boutique hotels, and a large population of expats means that there is a good selection of international cuisine — although Turkey’s Mediterranean cuisine is so good that you’re unlikely to crave anything else. This is the perfect place to try paragliding, hike part of the Lycian Way, or simply lie on a beach and soak up the sun and glorious surrounds.
Main photo: paragliders at Oludeniz beach (Getty Images)
1. Chill with the turtles on Iztuzu beach
This spit of sand is one of the rare parts of the Turkish coast that has escaped over-development, thanks to it being an important and protected nesting site for loggerhead turtles. There’s just one restaurant, toilets and sun loungers — but with sea and sand this pristine, you won’t want or need anything more for a day of summer escapism. There’s a turtle sanctuary at the eastern end of the beach where you can learn about the latest protection efforts, and the beach is closed every day from 8pm to 8am in order not to disturb the turtles as they nest and hatch.
2. Check out the day’s catch in Fethiye fish market
The hub of the bustling old town in Fethiye is the fish market, where you can purchase net-fresh fish caught and arranged by local fishermen. Local specialities are mullet and octopus, but there are dozens of others to pick from — sea bass, swordfish and everything in between. Head to the surrounding restaurants and choose which fish you’d like cooked up for you, and tuck into it with salad and wine — or raki, a punchy aniseed spirit, if you want to do it like the locals. The fish market is open every day and there’s also a weekly farmers’ market on Tuesdays too.
3. Step back in time at the Fethiye museum
Almost every town in Turkey has an impressive archaeological museum, and from the outside this one doesn’t look like anything special. But don’t judge a museum by its exterior: the collection here is fascinating and the exhibits give real insight into the area’s history. Don’t miss the Lycian-era grave stelae — the plaques on which the deceased’s epitaphs were written in three languages — and the remarkably well-preserved Roman statues. Its compact size — just two rooms, one focused on archaeology and the other on ethnography — makes it a quick trip for easily bored kids.
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4. Haggle for a Turkish carpet
It’s tricky to find a rug bargain when you come to Turkey as a tourist — every smart salesman is on the lookout for foreigners who could be charmed into parting with their lira. Fethiye is one of the few holiday towns where you can find a genuinely nice place to shop for a rug. The owner of the Old Orient Carpet and Kilim Bazaar, based in a quaint building in the old city, also offers classes on rug making and restoration, and is a fountain of knowledge on this very Turkish tradition. Remember that if you buy an antique rug you may need documents to take it through customs.
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5. Get scrubbed clean in a Turkish bath
You’ve never known truly, squeaky clean until you’ve been steamed, scrubbed and pummelled in a traditional Turkish bathhouse, known as a hammam. This is a several-hour affair, starting with a long sweat in the steam room, followed by a full-body scrub from one of the attendants and finished off with an invigorating cold shower. The more touristy places will offer spa-style indulgence, but for the authentic experience head to one of the ones that serve locals, where the service will be far more gruff but no less effective.
6. Roam around the ancient city of Telmessos
In the 5th century BC Telmessos was the largest city in the Lycian Union, the area that now stretches between Antalya and Fethiye. Over the centuries it’s changed hands and names multiple times, eventually becoming a Greek city known as Makri. Much of the ancient town has been lost underneath Fethiye, but there are still some impressive sights: make time for its huge amphitheatre, and the Lycian rock tombs built into the cliffs above town. It’s well worth the slog up there to see them — and you’ll be rewarded with one of the best views over the local area.
7. Wander around an abandoned Greek village
It’s a century since most Greeks fled what is now known as Turkey, but for centuries, before the population exchange that came with the collapse of the Ottoman Empire, they had lived alongside Muslim neighbours in Fethiye. Kayakoy, a ghost village once home to 2,000 people, is an eerie reminder of all that was lost so relatively recently — many locals in this region have close ancestors who were transferred to Anatolia from the Balkans at the same time as the Greeks moved west. There’s also a small museum where you can bone up on the history of the village.
8. Sail around pristine bays on a gulet
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The elegant wooden sailing boats that you’ll see serenely drifting around the coast are part of a culture that traces back to antiquity. Gulets have at various times been used for trade and, particularly during the later Ottoman empire, war. However, these days they are devoted to the sublime Turkish concept of keyif — the pursuit of unbridled pleasure. There is no better way to experience the gorgeous stretch of coast around Fethiye. For the most authentic experience find one that is still a true sailing boat — many of the ones built for tourists have motors and the sails are just for show.
9. Bathe in the Blue Lagoon
Fethiye’s most famous landmark is a brilliant blue inlet of still waters surrounded by sandy and pebble beaches. Sadly it’s lost some of its charm in recent years thanks to rapid over-development and the boom of package tourism, but it’s still worth a visit. The nearby town of Oludeniz, which is also the Turkish name for the Blue Lagoon, is filled with rowdy bars and cheap souvenir shops, and is best avoided unless that is your thing. But do spend a day on the beach itself — it’s a protected nature reserve and one of the best and safest places in Turkey to go swimming.
10. Sunbathe among swarms of butterflies
The aptly named Butterfly Valley is home to dozens of colour-popping species that flutter around your head as you sunbathe on this picture-perfect beach. There’s a real lost-Eden vibe here: the stretch of sand is only easily accessible by boat, so you’ll either have to come on one of the regular water taxis or join a day trip that stops off here. It’s also possible to hike down from the cliff above, but it is a difficult climb that will take several hours — definitely not one for novices.
11. Explore the old town
Paspatur is the official name for Fethiye’s old town, which lies within striking distance of the marina and several of the region’s top ancient sites. The area has suffered repeated devastating earthquakes over the millennia, which means that the whole town is made up of only low-rise buildings, something that adds to Paspatur’s charm. This is the place to find authentic food markets, old stone buildings, cute pavement cafés, and the photogenic “Umbrella Street”, which is hung with colourful umbrellas that keep the scorching sun at bay.
12. Paraglide off Babadag
Looming in the background of the Blue Lagoon, Babadag — or “Father Mountain” — is the prime place to launch yourself into the sky and admire the dramatic landscape below. You’ll see an endless stream of paragliders from Oludeniz beach, and if you’re inspired to give it a go yourself you’ll find plenty of places offering packages. For tandem dives you don’t need any experience, but if you’re here for a longer stay there are also schools where you can take courses, as well as places offering skydiving and even fighter jet flying.
13. Walk through the Saklikent gorge
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This 300m deep, 11-mile long limestone gorge is one of the biggest in the world. It’s carved out by water that rushes down from the Taurus Mountains when the snow melts in spring, and from April to November the water levels are low enough that you can walk through. There are still places where you’ll have to cross through the water, so wear sensible shoes and clothes you don’t mind getting wet. The very end is accessible only by professionals with equipment, but there is plenty to wander on a day trip, including a myriad of caves and waterfalls.
14. Hike some of the Lycian Way
Turkey’s most famous hiking trail runs for 300 miles between Fethiye and Antalya, following the coastline that was home to the Lycian league of city states in the 5th century BC. There are lots of scenic short stretches you can complete in a day. If you want to stretch it out into a holiday-within-a-holiday, you’ll find lots of family-run B&Bs along the route. Want to do the whole thing? Come in winter when the temperatures are more clement.
15. Splash around in one of Fethiye’s aquaparks
If your little ones get bored of the beach you can swap the waves for aquaparks — there are three in and around Fethiye where you can spend a high-octane day in the water. In the town itself you’ll find Sultans Aqua City, which also has a pool and offers swimming courses. Outside town, there is the Grand Ucel Aquapark, part of a hotel of the same name but open to the public, and Water World in Ovacik. The biggest of the three, it also has a wave pool and a children’s pool. All three have a restaurant on site.
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16. Visit the ancient city of Tlos
Tlos was the ancient Lycian city that lasted the longest — it was still inhabited until the 19th century, and even today there is a village almost adjoined to it. Its ruins are remarkably intact and you’ll get a real feeling of the place it used to be as you wander and peer at the tombs carved into the rock face. An added bonus is its high location on a bluff overlooking a plain — bring your camera to capture the panoramic views.
17. Watch the sunset from Calis beach
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This is the closest stretch to a city beach — a sandy 2.5 mile affair to the west of town. Here, you can try your hand at water sports, see turtles, or people-watch as you stroll along the long promenade. Pull up a chair at one of several bars and restaurants along the seafront — they really come into their own as the sun goes down directly behind the island just across the bay, turning what was already a stirring vista into something magical. Stay here after dark and you’ll find some of the best nightlife in the area too.
18. Have a gozleme breakfast
Greasy, gooey and deeply satisfying, gozleme (cheese, vegetable or meat filling between layers of crispy flatbread) is a speciality of this region. You’ll see adverts on all the roads around Fethiye, and it has a place on almost every café’s menu. It’s a dream breakfast when served with tea next to the beach or in a cool garden, and makes the perfect snack while you’re sunbathing or hiking. Pide and borek are similarly popular (and filling) snacks, and the best way to fuel up if you don’t want to spend hours tucking into a full Turkish breakfast.
19. Go island-hopping
There’s a cluster of beautiful, quirky interesting islands scattered off the coast of Fethiye, which are inhabited yet completely unspoilt. Sovalye, within sight of the main town, is reached in a 15-minute trip on the shuttle boat from Calis beach, and you’ll find cafés, beaches and some lovely villas here. Meanwhile, Gemiler island is scattered with the ruins of ancient churches, while the more isolated Gocek islands are the top choice for nature lovers. There are plenty of boat trips to choose from; charter your own if you want more freedom to explore.
20. Watch an oil wrestling show
You might think this traditional form of wrestling, in which burly men in buffalo hide shorts oil themselves up before they grapple, is a show put on for tourists, but it’s actually taken very seriously in Turkey. Professional wrestlers train all year for the big events and the more important competitions are broadcast on television. The centre of the sport is the Thracian city of Edirne, where the top ranks compete for the national prize, but most regions have their own events. There’s an annual festival in early September in the lovely, cool mountain village of Seki, two hours from Fethiye.
21. Work up a sweat at Sehit Fethi Bey park
This seafront park in the city centre is a Pandora’s box for bored little ones: expect skate parks, zip lines, adventure playgrounds and trampolines. And, if that all sounds too hectic, there’s calming greenery and fountains to walk around, as well as lots of shaded places to sit and chill while the kids burn off energy. Its ribbon was cut in 2018 so facilities are modern, and it’s open all year round. The nearby Calis beach bird sanctuary is another handy option to take kids to when they’ve had enough of the beach.
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