Contents

Cover
About the Book
About the Author
Title Page
Introduction

INTRODUCING GARDEN DESIGN

Why design matters

Design principles
The site – what have you got?
focus on Levels
Your garden on paper
focus on Your garden from the window
Garden shapes
focus on Front gardens
Contemporary gardens
Cottage gardens
Wildlife gardens
Family gardens
Formal gardens
focus on Planning for low maintenance

HARD LANDSCAPING
Purpose and uses
Hard landscaping materials
Hands on: Paving
Hands on: Brickwork
Hands on: Posts and panel fencing
Hands on: Decking
Hands on: Timber pergolas
Hands on: Gravel and chippings
Hands on: Wall fixings
Hands on: Lawns
Hands on: Water features
focus on Small spaces

PLANTING BY DESIGN

Using plants
focus on Mood
Trees
Shrubs
Climbers
Herbaceous perennials
Annuals and biennials
Bulbs
focus on Screening
Hedges
focus on Creating height
Vegetables by design
focus on The sensory garden
The finishing touches
focus on The garden at night

SEASON BY SEASON

Planning for all-year interest

Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter

PLANTING SOLUTIONS

Problem gardens
New-build gardens
Shady gardens
Windy gardens
Dry gardens
Damp gardens
focus on Planning for a green garden

Index
Acknowledgements
Picture Credits
Copyright
 About the Book

Alan Titchmarsh imparts a lifetime of expertise in these definitive

practical guides for beginners and experienced gardeners. Step-by-
step illustrations and easy-to-follow instructions guide you through
the basic skills and on to the advanced techniques, providing
everything you need to create and maintain your dream garden.

How to assess your site, create a style and source materials

Advice on planting schemes and achieving year-round interest
Tips on working with design principles such as scale, proportion
and balance
Simple instructions for hard landscaping
Step-by-step guides to essential techniques
 About the Author

Originally trained at Hertfordshire College of Horticulture and Royal

Botanic Gardens, Kew, Alan Titchmarsh is the author of over 40
books about gardening, including How to be a Gardener Book 1:
Back to Basics, the fastest-selling of all time in the genre, and the
bestselling The Kitchen Gardener: How to Grow Your Own Fruit and
Veg. He writes for BBC Gardeners‘ World Magazine, and is
gardening correspondent for the Daily Express and Sunday Express.
He has presented Gardeners’ World, the annual coverage of The
Chelsea Flower Show and Nature of Britain, and has his own daily
chatshow.
Introduction
Gardening is one of the best and most fulfilling activities on earth,
but it can sometimes seem complicated and confusing. The answers
to problems can usually be found in books, but big fat gardening
books can be rather daunting. Where do you start? How can you find
just the information you want without wading through lots of stuff that
is not appropriate to your particular problem? Well, a good index is
helpful, but sometimes a smaller book devoted to one particular
subject fits the bill better – especially if it is reasonably priced and if
you have a small garden where you might not be able to fit in
everything suggested in a larger volume.

The How to Garden books aim to fill that gap – even if sometimes it
may be only a small one. They are clearly set out and written, I hope,
in a straightforward, easy-to-understand style. I don’t see any point
in making gardening complicated, when much of it is based on
common sense and observation. (All the key techniques are
explained and illustrated, and I’ve included plenty of tips and tricks of
the trade.)

There are suggestions on the best plants and the best varieties to
grow in particular situations and for a particular effect. I’ve tried to
keep the information crisp and to the point so that you can find what
you need quickly and easily and then put your new-found knowledge
into practice. Don’t worry if you’re not familiar with the Latin names of
plants. They are there to make sure you can find the plant as it will
be labelled in the nursery or garden centre, but where appropriate I
have included common names, too. Forgetting a plant’s name need
not stand in your way when it comes to being able to grow it.
Above all, the How to Garden books are designed to fill you with
passion and enthusiasm for your garden and all that its creation and
care entails, from designing and planting it to maintaining it and
enjoying it. For more than fifty years gardening has been my
passion, and that initial enthusiasm for watching plants grow, for
trying something new and for just being outside pottering has never
faded. If anything I am keener on gardening now than I ever was and
get more satisfaction from my plants every day. It’s not that I am
simply a romantic, but rather that I have learned to look for the good
in gardens and in plants, and there is lots to be found. Oh, there are
times when I fail – when my plants don’t grow as well as they should
and I need to try harder. But where would I rather be on a sunny
day? Nowhere!

The How to Garden handbooks will, I hope, allow some of that

enthusiasm – childish though it may be – to rub off on you, and the
information they contain will, I hope, make you a better gardener, as
well as opening your eyes to the magic of plants and flowers.
Introducing garden design
Do you ever look at a garden and wonder what it
is that makes it successful? It’s easy to think it
just evolved, as if by magic – the owner has
‘green fingers’, the site is idyllic, the birds sing
there … That may be partly true, but for a
garden to work as a whole, there has to be more
to it. Every site has its limitations – awkward
shape, poor soil, shady aspect – but a good
garden will have disguised or overcome these.
The plants will be well suited to the situation and
someone will have thought about how they
would change with time, and how to get the best
from them. In short, the garden will have been
designed. If it doesn’t appear that way, then it’s
a real success.
Why design matters

Garden design has long been considered a luxury. The grand

gardens of the past had designers: if you asked a dozen
people to name one famous garden designer, the name
Capability Brown would be sure to come up. He has a lot to
answer for. Garden design was for the wealthy, with rolling
acres to transform, not for the ordinary gardener.

We’ve come a long way since then, but even now there’s a feeling
that garden design is some kind of extravagance, an optional extra.
Most people have relatively small gardens, and plots are getting
smaller. So why, and how, is design relevant or necessary?
Design is about making the best use of the space you have; it’s
about practicalities and problem-solving. Of course, it’s also about
producing something that looks pleasing, but, like a building, a
successful garden must suit its site and work well for the people who
use it. Even the most basic garden will benefit from these design
considerations – particularly smaller gardens, where every inch
counts. Then there’s the question of the garden feeling comfortable
and right for you.
When you’re planning your new garden, you may find it helps to keep a sketchbook for
jotting down ideas and plans. Include photos, magazine cuttings – anything that inspires
you. It can be very therapeutic!

Creating a place
Designing a garden involves creating a place. It should be an
agreeable place to be, and an interesting space to explore. This will
mean different things to different people, but whatever your
preferences and tastes, the first step in making a satisfying garden is
to create good lines and proportions when you plan it. Understanding
how to use shapes, lines and proportions effectively is a fundamental
design skill. Another important piece of equipment in the designer’s
toolbox is an awareness of colour, light and shade – how they work,
and how to manipulate them to get the effects you want. A
knowledge of plants, their preferences, their behaviour and how to
combine them to best effect, is hugely valuable when it comes to
finding the right ones for your particular site and situation. So,
whether your garden is dry, shady, damp, windy or just plain difficult,
don’t try to fight it. Keep it simple, work with nature, trust your
instincts and begin to transform your space.
Never forget that many an excellent garden began with a difficult site. You’ll be amazed how
a plot can be transformed by re-thinking the space and choosing appropriate plants.
Design principles

The last thing anyone wants when they’re full of enthusiasm

for making a new garden is to be bombarded with a lot of
rules. But garden design is about planning spaces, and it has
long been accepted that certain basic principles apply to the
spaces we find workable, satisfying and ‘right’. If you can
keep these ideas in your mind (and to many people with
design flair they will be second nature), then you’re more
likely to end up with a garden you like and enjoy living with.

An open, sunnier area beyond a patch of cool, green shade provides contrast and an
invitation to move on and explore. Bold foliage shapes and pools of bright colour give
balance and seasonal interest.

These tried and tested principles of design relate to proportion,

scale, movement and flow, unity, rhythm and balance. They aren’t
clear-cut, and often overlap. Perhaps the best way to use them is as
a check-list when you are evaluating layout possibilities in the early
stages. Obviously, they will have to work alongside many other
considerations such as practical constraints and your personal
tastes, preferences and budget.

Proportion
Echoing the proportions of your house in the garden’s layout often
works very well, giving house and garden a sense of belonging to
each other. For example, you might use the width of a gable or the
footprint of a hexagonal conservatory as a guide to the size and
shape of an adjacent terrace or lawn.
Think, too, about the proportions of the different areas and the
various features in your garden in relation to each other. A simplified
version of the well-known ‘golden ratio’ – a mathematical and artistic
theory used since classical times – can be a useful rule of thumb.
Two lines in a certain proportion to each other – roughly speaking,
one-third to two-thirds – will tend to give a pleasing effect. Try this
‘rule of thirds’ when deciding how to divide a space or position an
entrance, and keep it in mind when planning the ratio of planting to
open space – 1:2, or half as much planted area as open space, will
often work out well.
You may be stuck with a plot whose proportions instinctively feel
all wrong, but there’s no need to despair – there are all sorts of
design tricks you can use to help correct this (see here).

Scale
People are probably the most important element in the scale
equation: a garden feels better as a space if it is on a human scale.
Big, open exterior spaces don’t feel comfortable or secure to sit in,
so smaller areas must be defined within them. Paths and steps need
to be a good width – more roomy than their indoor equivalents.
Pergolas and arches must be high and spacious enough not to feel
oppressive.
Choose plants that are in scale with the spaces they are growing
in. A tree at the top of a slope will tend to dwarf everything. Tall
perennials won’t work in a narrow border, nor tiny plants at the foot
of a high wall.

Movement and flow

This is all about giving an incentive to explore. Particular paving
patterns, such as brick paving laid lengthways along a path, seem to
propel you along to the next part of the garden. Carefully chosen
focal points invite you to walk a bit further. A pool of sunlight beyond
a patch of shade is always enticing, while a path disappearing round
a bend makes you want to know what lies beyond. A shady pergola
can create a sense of mystery, arousing curiosity. Avoid ‘dead ends’,
which discourage any sense of movement.

Unity
A sense of unity helps prevent your garden from being a haphazard
jumble of the things you happen to want or need in it. Elements that
give unity to a design include a theme or a style: if the house is
contemporary, with clean lines and strong shapes, then carrying this
style consistently through into the garden will make it all hang
together. As a rule of thumb, formal areas tend to work best nearer
the house, informal areas farther away from it. Restraint in your use
of materials, shapes and colours can also help to unify a space.
Using too many different materials, or a random mix of colours, will
have the opposite effect.
Movement and flow have clearly been thought about in this garden. A series of eye-catching
specimen plants and a sculpture provide focal points to lead the eye through the garden,
and there is a choice of walking routes to give variety.

Rhythm
Rhythm in garden design, just as in music, usually entails repetition
of a pattern or motif. Repeating a particular plant grouping, or having
two or more similar arches, steps, planted pots or other such
features at intervals along a path, gives coherence and leads the eye
on through the garden.
Balance
Try to avoid a lopsided effect – the feeling that one side of the
garden is dominant as you walk through it. Tall plants, major groups
of plants, and focal points should be evenly distributed to right and
left so that both sides look equally important. When planning your
planting, take care not to have all the evergreens on one side, or the
garden will look unbalanced in winter.
The site – what have you got?

A garden is rarely an entirely blank canvas. There are usually

existing features, and attributes such as climate, aspect,
topography and soil need to be considered at the planning
stage. However beautiful your design may be in your mind’s
eye, the reality will be a disappointment if you ignore these
‘givens’. Remember – creating a successful garden is as
much about problem solving as it is about artistic vision.

Don’t underestimate the advantages of a compact, partly shaded urban plot. Shelter can be
a real bonus in this kind of garden, creating an ideal microclimate for exotic plants and a
jungle effect.

A professional garden designer would carry out a thorough site

analysis to investigate and record all the factors above. You may not
want to consult a professional, but you should take the time to stand
and stare, so you are fully aware of what your garden does. Do
overhanging trees cut out light and rainfall? Does the soil become
bone dry the moment the sun warms it up in spring? Are there any
persistent damp spots? Where are the sunny places, at different
times of day – in winter as well as in summer? The answers to
questions like these are often your most useful guide in planning a
workable layout. They are also invaluable in helping you achieve one
of the most important goals in gardening: choosing the right plants
for the right places.

Plot size
The design of your garden will be dictated by the size of the plot, so
make a record of its dimensions at an early stage. An empty plot
always appears bigger than it really is, and it’s easy to think you can
fit in more than it will easily accommodate, resulting in a garden that
seems overcrowded. With a few rough measurements in front of you
it’s much easier to be realistic from the outset about what you can
include.

Setting
The best gardens are those that sit well in their surroundings. This
applies not only to big plots in the country, with a backdrop of
woodland or rolling hills, but also to smaller, urban gardens, which
might take their cue from the Victorian terraced house or
contemporary studio to which they belong. Make notes and take
photographs of the views from your garden – the aspects that will
need screening, as well as those that could be adopted into your
scheme. Also note the style of adjacent buildings, their materials,
and details, which could perhaps be echoed in your design.

Shape
The shape of a plot can be deceptive. Unless your garden is a
simple rectangle it may be worth doing a bit of basic surveying (see
here) to get a reasonably accurate idea on paper of the shape you
are dealing with. In the case of bigger plots, large-scale Ordnance
Survey maps may help. These are available online, for a fee, or you
can consult them in some public libraries (scales 1:1250 or 1:2500
are the best). Remember, though, that these larger-scale maps are
not always up to date, so boundaries may have changed. Aerial
photographs can be useful, too. Again, your local library or public
record office may be able to help. Some parts of the country are also
covered by large-scale satellite photography, accessible online via
Google Earth.
As well as recording the actual shape of the plot, note down and
perhaps photograph any areas that feel awkward, cramped,
inaccessible or generally difficult. They will need special treatment in
your planning.

Topography
A flat, level site is a mixed blessing – it is easier to survey, but harder
to make into an interesting three-dimensional garden. A sloping site
entails more work if you need to make terraces or steps (see here),
but it can lend character to a garden, offering effortless changes of
eye-level as well as contrasting views of the immediate landscape
when going along the same path in different directions.
Dappled shade around deciduous trees (here a tulip tree, Liriodendron tulipifera) can be a
lovely effect to create. The space will be sunny in winter and inviting in a different way in
summer, when the leafy canopy tempers the sun’s heat and glare.

Aspect and orientation

These will be key factors in your design. Use a compass to find
north, and record where the sun falls at different times of day, ideally
in both summer and in winter. This will help you plan seating areas,
and it will be a valuable guide for siting new trees and other tall
features where they won’t cast unwanted shade. Equally important,
knowing which areas are sunny or shady is essential when it comes
to choosing plants. Note the different types of shade, such as
gloomy areas beneath deciduous trees where there will be more light
in winter when the trees are bare, but where the soil is also likely to
be dry and poor. On the north side of a building, or beneath
evergreens, there may well be year-round shade. Earmark any
protected, ‘sun-trap’ areas as possible locations for plants (and
people!) that love to bask. Wind direction will also be a factor,
determining whether you will need to create shelter in certain areas
(see also here).

Climate and microclimate

Different gardens – or even parts of the same garden – have their
own climatic conditions, a fact that is largely the result of aspect and
orientation. Other factors, such as the surrounding topography, play
their part too. For example, ‘frost pockets’ are particular areas that
seem especially prone to frost, possibly due to some obstruction that
prevents cold air from draining away down a slope. It may not be
possible to ‘cure’ a frost pocket, but if you have identified it at least
you’ll know not to put vulnerable plants there. The same applies to
damp spots, or places where buildings cause wind turbulence. The
most successful planning and planting will take factors like these into
account at an early stage.
Shingle and dense, drought-tolerant planting – a classic, practical solution that has made a
success of many a sun-baked garden with poor, dry soil.

Drainage
You’ll probably be only too familiar with how your garden behaves in
very wet weather. If drainage is poor, note where the worst places
are, and consider installing land drains if the problem is really severe
(see here). Terracing slopes to make level, absorbent surfaces will
help solve any problems there may be with excessive water run-off
(see here).

Soil
The type of soil you have is critical in choosing the right plants. The
most important thing to find out is whether your soil drains freely
(more likely on sand or chalk) or retains moisture (probably on clay).
Whether the soil is acid or alkaline makes a big difference to certain
plants. Many rhododendrons and camellias, and some heathers,
magnolias and other popular shrubs and trees, dislike alkaline soil.
Other plants – clematis, pinks and many shrubby herbs – just love it.
Improving the soil in a general way is always worthwhile, but with
extreme soil types it is usually best to choose plants that suit the soil
you have, rather than trying to change the character of your soil
radically to suit the plants.
Observation is a good rough guide to basic soil type. Notice how
the soil behaves, whether existing plants (including weeds) grow well
in it, and what it looks and feels like in different weather conditions.
Can you dig after heavy rain without soil sticking to everything? Do
puddles hang around for days? Do you tend to lose plants through
summer drought or winter waterlogging? Which plants appear to
grow well in neighbouring gardens?
Greater precision than this may not be necessary, and more
scientific soil testing is often less helpful than you might think
because soil can vary quite a lot in different parts of a garden. For
example, chalky soils sometimes have a ‘clay cap’ which makes the
ground heavy and sticky in places, while acid soil can become more
alkaline near buildings and paving, where there may be old mortar
rubble. However, if you want to know the precise pH of your soil,
testing kits are widely available.

Existing plants
When taking over an existing garden, it is certainly worth saving any
decent plants, especially mature trees and shrubs, that are already
growing and can be renovated. Even if they would not be your first
choice, they will prevent a feeling of bareness in the new garden and
give it a sense of maturity from the outset. Make a list of the trees
and shrubs you think may be worth preserving. This will also help
you to reduce your plant bill.

Existing buildings and hard landscaping

Think about what you could do with existing garden buildings,
fencing and other hard landscape structures: could they be restored,
or just given a coat of paint, to make them useful in a new scheme?
You may be able to save on costs by reusing existing paving, either
in situ – perhaps with a new edging, different detailing or a change of
emphasis – or elsewhere in the garden. Recycled paving slabs or
shingle can be useful for making hard paths in a kitchen garden, or
around a greenhouse, shed or compost area. Consider all the
possibilities before you decide to scrap any of the structures or
materials you have on the site.
Make a note of any eyesores that need to be disguised or
concealed, such as an oil tank or a neighbour’s shed. There are
ways to screen them. (See here for ideas.)

Underground services
It is vital to establish the location and depth of any pipework or
cabling that crosses the site so that you can work round it, if
possible. Relocating services can be a costly operation, and with
careful planning you can usually avoid it. Recently installed electricity
cables, water mains and other services should have been laid to a
statutory safe depth and be suitably protected, so they may not
cause problems, but it’s a good idea to find out where you may need
to take special care when digging – inadvertent damage could have
expensive consequences. With newer properties, you may be able to
get hold of the architect’s plan of the site showing the routes of
services. Otherwise, the location of inspection covers and visible
pipes and cables may offer clues.
Beth Chatto’s wonderful garden sits on an unpromising combination of wet clay and dry
gravel. Her secret? Choose plants to suit the conditions.

Don’t forget

You will probably have to work round existing access points to and
from the house and the road, so doors and gates must be factored
into your layout at an early stage. People tend to take the shortest
route from A to B, even if it means cutting corners, so position
paths on, or very close to, these routes.
FOCUS ON Levels

On a sloping site you’ll need at least some areas

of level ground. Creating these is likely to
involve an expensive upheaval, but take heart.
Imaginatively planned changes of level will not
only make your garden more practical, but will
give you a much more interesting space. You
can turn the slope to advantage and use
terraces, banks and steps to divide the space in
ways that will be useful, pleasing to look at and
tailor-made to your own needs.
 Planting to overhang walls
Plants that loll comfortably over the top of a wall from the bed above give a
relaxed effect and help soften the hard line of the wall. Where possible, leave
plenty of space for plants to overhang without getting in the way. Fragrant
plants work well, being within easy reach for brushing against and sniffing. A
bed at the top of a sunny wall is likely to be very well drained, so this would be
an excellent place for drought-tolerant Mediterranean herbs such as hyssop,
prostrate rosemary, lavender and thyme. Other plants to try include
Centranthus ruber, Convolvulus cneorum and Erigeron karvinskianus (all
below) and low, spreading cultivars of cistus, anthemis and artemisia.

Terracing
This involves moving earth to create level areas, each contained on
the downhill side by a retaining wall or bank. It is a major
undertaking, and for anything more ambitious than simple terracing
of a shallow slope you should definitely get professional advice from
a landscape architect or a building contractor. A retaining wall,
especially if it is more than 1m (40in) high, has to bear a
considerable load and must be properly reinforced. It’s important to
get the drainage right, too, or water may build up behind the wall in
wet weather, putting more pressure on the structure and even risking
collapse.
Nevertheless, terracing can be a really worthwhile solution that
makes the most of limited space and helps connect a house with its
garden. Often a low retaining wall is all that’s needed. It doesn’t have
to be straight: a curve may suit the site, and you can soften the line
with planting or break it up with steps, seating or a water feature. If
your house is at the top of the slope, terraces will present the garden
to the house, but should your house be at the bottom, you may be
better off working with the slope, rather than looking at a series of
brick ‘risers’ like a flight of steps.

Contemporary terracing for a sunny, dry slope: timber sleepers and a mulch of cobbles. In a
terraced garden, year-round planting softens the impact of retaining walls, which can hit the
eye when viewed from the bottom of a steep slope.

Banks
A bank is easier to construct than a retaining wall, but takes up more
space. It’s advisable to make the bank no steeper than 1 in 2 (30
degrees), so for a bank 1m high you need a 2m horizontal space.
Banks steeper than this will be difficult to maintain or mow, and the
steeper the bank the more likely it is that soil will creep gradually
downhill.
Banks can be either grassed over or planted. If you decide on
grass, include some dwarf bulbs – a flowery bank is a cheering sight
in spring. If you would prefer a covering of plants, make sure some
of your choices are perennials with fibrous, mat-forming root
systems, such as Alchemilla mollis, Geranium macrorrhizum,
Heuchera or Tellima grandiflora, to help hold the soil in place. You
can also plant some low, spreading shrubs, perhaps Cotoneaster
dammeri or Lonicera pileata, or creepers such as periwinkles and
variegated ivies. Ground-cover planting keeps maintenance low, and
rain won’t wash loose earth down the slope when you disturb the soil
by clearing or weeding.

Steps
Steps are often needed to link different levels, and there are so
many attractive ways to build them it’s a pity not to make them a
focal feature. Spend a bit of time considering the options, both formal
and informal, and the choice of materials. And don’t forget safety
considerations too. (See also here.)

Ramps
A ramp has to slope more gently than steps so it takes up more
space, but it may be a better option in terms of access with a mower
or wheelbarrow, or for anyone with limited mobility. The width of the
ramp will depend on its intended use. The ramp could be L-shaped,
or it could consist of two parallel runs with a ‘landing’ half-way, like a
hairpin bend. It may be built alongside steps. Remember to use a
textured surface, as a smooth one can be slippery when wet. Try a
bonded aggregate, rough-textured bricks or setts, or ridged paving
slabs.

Changes of level around natural ponds need a light touch. Grass studded with primroses
and wood anemones is just right for Great Dixter’s Lower Moat. A froth of informal
planting softens the steps in a more contemporary garden.
Taking levels
When you’re planning steps and terraces you will need at least a rough idea of the
level changes. There are numerous pieces of kit for measuring levels, from an old-
fashioned spirit level to state-of-the-art laser technology. The fall of a slope can be
plotted approximately by measuring the fall in an adjacent fence or wall, or (as
below) by recording the drop at 1m (40in) intervals using a plank, a spirit level and
a vertical rule.
Your garden on paper

Making a plan can be a useful way to begin creating a

garden design, but it isn’t essential. Some lucky people are
blessed with the ability to walk round a garden, immediately
see what’s wrong and visualize a cracking new layout. (This,
incidentally, is usually much easier to do in other people’s
gardens than in your own!) Others feel daunted by the very
idea of measuring, plotting and drawing, and would avoid
planning their garden at all if that’s what they had to do.

The diagram shows how to plot the corner of the site (C) by triangulation from points A and
B, while the tree (D) is plotted as an offset from point (E) on the base line (AB).

Nevertheless, a design plan – even a rough one – drawn to scale on

paper can be a tremendously helpful tool. It gives you an idea of
whether everything fits (before you start building or planting, and find
that it doesn’t), and you can play around with shapes and sizes in a
way that’s difficult to do on the ground. It’s also a good basis for
calculating fairly accurately the quantities of materials to order for
hard landscaping, and it gives you a ready-made template for
drawing up a planting plan and estimating the number of plants you
will need.

In your survey, you’ll need to plot the positions of all the existing features that will affect your
design: paths, drives, fences, mature trees and inspection covers.

Don’t forget

Use metric measurements when drawing up your plan, or you will

need to convert everything before you order the materials. These
days, off-the-peg items, such as paving slabs, are nearly always
supplied in metric sizes, with no imperial equivalents.

Measuring a plot
If you do decide to make a design plan of the whole garden, you will
need a clear idea of the shape of the plot, its boundaries and the
position of any important features: the house, outbuildings, trees,
access points and so on. Surveying can be a complicated business,
with different methods and increasingly sophisticated technology.
The subject could easily fill a book on its own, so it is not covered in
detail here. However, if your garden has a reasonably
straightforward shape, you can use some simple surveying
techniques to plot its outline on paper. For larger or more
complicated gardens, or if you feel you would like to plan the garden
on paper but aren’t confident about measuring up, consider having a
professional survey done. (See also here for other possible sources
of information on your plot.)
The simplest, most accurate low-tech method of plotting a
garden’s boundaries and features is to use the classic surveying
technique of triangulation, where you plot a point by measuring its
distance from two different, known points on a base line. You can
use the house wall as your base line, and the two corners of the
house as the points from which you measure (see the diagram here).
First, stretch a tape measure along the wall from one end (A) to the
other (B) and note down the distances from A of all doors and
windows, and of the house corner (B). Then list the features you
intend to plot, for example the corners of the garden (such as C), any
other points where the boundaries change direction, and any
significant features you plan to keep – such as a shed or
greenhouse, a pond or tree. Next, fix the end of the tape at point A
and measure the distance to each of the features on your list. Then
fix the end of the tape at point B and record the distance from there
to each feature. Finally, measure the footprint of any structures, and
note down the diameter of the canopy of trees and major shrubs.

Use a retractable metal tape measure for distances up to 5m (16ft) or so. For a whole
garden, a surveyor’s tape (up to 50m/165ft long) is best.
 For plotting other features in the garden, a quicker but less
accurate method is to take ‘offsets’ from the base line. Measure and
record the distance from each feature (such as the tree, D) to the
base line, being careful to make sure the tape meets the base line at
right angles. Record the distance from the start of the base line (A)
to the point where the offset tape meets it (E).
You can then replicate your measurements on paper, using a
scale rule and a set square as described below.
MAKE A WISH LIST
In creating the new garden of your dreams, it’s surprisingly easy to lose sight of
some of the practical things you want to achieve. So, at the outset, make a wish
list of the features that you would like to have in your new garden. For a family
garden, for example, your list might look like the one below – and your sketch plan
could end up looking something like the one on the right.

1 A family dining area, with overhead shade, for outdoor lunches in summer
2 A water feature that can be seen from the kitchen window
3 A wildlife corner, where visiting birds can be seen from the house in winter
4 Overhead screening (a pergola) from a neighbour’s upstairs window
5 Secure but attractive boundaries to keep children and dogs safe
6 A level, well-drained, grassy play area with sun for most of the year
7 A seat in the sun for morning coffee, or for a summer evening drink
8 An unobtrusive (but not too shady) place to dry the washing
9 An easy-maintenance raised bed for herbs and salad crops
10 Accessible but tucked-away storage for bicycles and tools
Plotting the site
Armed with your measurements, and back at your work table, the
next step is to turn the information you have collected into a rough
site plan. You’ll need a sharp pencil, a large sheet of paper, a scale
rule, a set square and a pair of compasses (oh, and an eraser!).
First, decide on a scale. Use the largest scale you can without
making the plan unwieldy. For a small garden a scale of 1:50 will do
very nicely (that is, 1cm on the plan = 50cm on the site).
Using your scale rule, draw in your base line to the correct length.
Then, again using your scale rule, set the compasses to the distance
from A to your first feature. Draw an arc representing that distance
from A. Do the same with the distance from B to the feature. Where
the arcs cross is the position of the feature.
 Build up a master plan of the garden’s shape and features in this
way, then make some photocopies to use as templates on to which
you can roughly sketch all your design ideas.
You are now all set to experiment with as many different layouts as
it takes to find the one that ticks all the boxes. See here for some
design tips that may help you to get started on a layout. You will get
there in the end.

Planting plans
When you’ve decided on a layout for the plot – whether or not you’ve
made a design plan – it’s definitely worth taking the trouble to make
a planting plan for each bed and border in your garden.
On paper – away from the lures of the garden centre – it’s much
easier to assess how much space each plant will take up, what you
can plant underneath what, how many plants of each kind you’ll
need, and what the effect will be throughout the year. Think about
the long-term suitability of each plant, and the best combinations and
groupings. The result will be more satisfying this way, and the saving
you’ll make on all the unsuitable impulse buys you’ve avoided will
pay for a few more plants that will be just right.

Measuring beds and borders

A planting plan needn’t be fancy, but it does need to be roughly to
scale (1:50 is usually best), so measure and draw an accurate
outline of each bed. Measuring a single flower bed is a piece of cake
in comparison with surveying a whole garden. Rectangular beds are
the easiest, of course, but do measure all four sides, as what looks
like a rectangle won’t always be true. For borders with one irregular
side, run a tape along the straight side and then measure out from
this at right angles, at 1m intervals, plotting corresponding points
along the edge on the other side.
Having measured the shape of the bed, plot the dimensions on
paper. Use a circle template to draw in the plants; at 1:50 a shrub
with a diameter of 1m will be represented as a circle 20mm across.
Size is a knotty problem here: do you draw a tree or shrub at the size
it is when you plant it, or at its eventual size? The best answer is a
compromise. So a medium-sized shrub that might reach a diameter
of 1.5m (5ft) within two to five years of planting would be shown by a
circle 30mm across.
Label each circle as you go with the name of the plant, or number
them and use a key. Link the circles representing plants of the same
kind that form a group, so you only have to write the name once. You
may like to sketch in a bit of detail to remind you at a glance what
each plant is: jagged edges for a spiky plant like a yucca, tiny dots
for a clipped box, billowy outlines for a rose. Position trees and
evergreen shrubs first. It’s important to get these in just the right
place because they will be with you for a long time. Shade in any
evergreen shrubs that reach right down to the ground, as they won’t
need any underplanting. Overlap the circles where one plant is
beneath another, for example a shrub beneath a tree and then a
herbaceous plant at ground level. Bulbs can be shown as drifts of
dots or little crosses.

Your virtual garden

Computer-aided design (CAD) has revolutionized three-dimensional planning
and is becoming more user-friendly all the time. Garden design CD-ROMs
have been available for some time, and now basic garden design software
can be found online or on DVD. You can try it on the BBC website for free,
and certain manufacturers of hard landscaping materials also offer the service
without charge. The way it works is that you enter measurements and
sometimes photographs, and the software creates a 3D template of your
garden. Using this template, you can experiment with tailor-made design
options and materials until you have a scheme you like. There are also online
CAD services that charge a fee to create a layout based on your
specifications.
PLANTING PLAN FOR A 6 × 2M (20 × 6FT) SUNNY BORDER
Evergreen shrubs and grasses give structure and all-year interest. Flowering
shrubs and perennials, underplanted with spring bulbs, are chosen for seasonal
succession.

1 Philadelphus ‘Silberregen’
2 Aquilegia alpina (×6)
3 Buxus sempervirens ‘Elegantissima’
4 Yucca filamentosa ‘Bright Edge’ (×3)
5 Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii (×2)
6 Narcissus ‘Jack Snipe’ (×50)
7 Rosa ‘Winchester Cathedral’ (×2)
8 Helianthemum ‘Wisley White’ (×2)
9 Geranium ‘Rozanne’ (×5)
10 Stipa tenuissima (×5)
11 Mahonia × media ‘Winter Sun’
12 Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’
 Finally, list all the plants on the plan, with quantities of each. That’s
your shopping list.

From paper to garden

To transfer a design or a planting layout from a plan to the ground,
start by converting some of the key measurements to real distances
on the ground, and write them on the plan. With a planting plan, this
might be the distance along the border – and the distance from the
back – of the key plants, such as trees and large or evergreen
shrubs. Position these key plants, in their pots, in the bed, and use
them as a guide for placing the rest of the plants. You needn’t
measure the exact position for every single one.
Similarly, with a design plan, plot several points along the outline
of a proposed path, patio or pond, for example, and join them to
mark the outline with pegs and string, or with a hosepipe fixed to the
ground with wire pegs or hoops. Use long canes to mark the
positions of trees and other tall features, to give you a general idea
of how the layout will look. As you mark out more features, it
becomes easier to locate the rest. Live with this rough layout for a
few days, look at it from every angle, imagine it in every kind of light
and weather. When you’re finally happy, mark it out more
permanently with paint or a trail of dry sand.

A plastic bottle filled with free-running dry sand is a handy way of marking your layout on
the ground.
If a planting plan seems a bother, remember that it is usually a much surer route to a well-
designed border, with shapes and colours working well together, and the right plants in the
right places.
FOCUS ON Your garden from the window

In the course of an average year, even the keenest gardener

will probably spend less time working or sitting in the garden
than looking at it from indoors. Your garden may well be your
first glimpse of the outside world when you wake up in the
morning, and your last before closing the curtains at dusk.
How the garden is seen from the house is critical, so it’s
definitely worth a bit of effort to make the picture a pleasing
one.

Planning your views

Making the house an integral part of your garden scheme begins
with looking out of the windows and doors, long and hard, at various
times of day and in different lights, weathers and seasons. Take
photographs and make notes. What would you like to be looking at?
Think about which views you want to preserve, and those you would
rather not see, so that you can plan appropriate screening. Consider
how you could align paths and other features to enhance the views
from the house. A long, framed vista could perhaps give the illusion
of more space, while a path disappearing round a corner lends a
sense of mystery.
Never, ever forget the view from indoors!

Planting in front of a window looks attractive and luxuriant, but be ready to trim plants if
they keep out the light.
 Think about which windows you look out of most, and create pleasing views to enjoy all
year round.

Come into the garden

There’s nothing better on a warm summer’s morning than to have
the door open and the garden beckoning. An inviting focal point
visible from the doorway works well as an enticement to step
outside, as do special, one-off plants that demand closer inspection.
Blurring the boundary between inside and out has the same effect;
you could do this by growing climbers and creepers around windows
and doorways, or paving the area outside the door with a material
similar to the flooring inside. Planted containers grouped close to the
door give a sense of abundance and enable you to ring the changes
with the seasons: spring bulbs are a particular pleasure grown in this
way, and will be protected from the worst effects of the elements.

Bringing the view to life

In late winter, plants that change ever so slightly each day, heralding
spring, are a treat to watch from the windows – emerging
snowdrops, of course, and winter aconites and early scillas.
Euphorbias such as Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii slowly
unfurl acid-green flowerheads very early in the year. The winter-
flowering tree Prunus × subhirtella ‘Autumnalis’ is compact enough
to grow quite near the house, and will keep your spirits up all winter
with its flushes of delicate white blossom whenever the weather
turns mild. Certain grasses, such as miscanthus or Stipa tenuissima,
and other plants that move easily with the wind such as catkin-
bearing shrubs and trees, bring movement and incident to the scene
– all helping to keep the interest going in different ways.

Provide the birds with plenty of cover, fresh water and a varied food supply of nuts, seeds
and berries. In return their visits will enliven your garden on every day of the year.

Watching birds from the house is such a privilege that it is worth

making special arrangements for them – not only conveniently
positioned feeders, nestboxes, and water for drinking and bathing,
but also plants that they will appreciate, visible from your windows.
Small birds such as blue tits and wrens like to patrol shrubs for tiny
insects, while blackbirds are attracted by the winter berries of
pyracantha and cotoneaster. Don’t forget upstairs. One summer
evening you may be lucky enough to see an elephant hawkmoth, all
glamorous and pink, feeding on the nectar of a honeysuckle outside
your bedroom window.
 Fragrance
Garden fragrance is famously elusive, often catching you unawares. Position
fragrant plants carefully to get maximum benefit from these pleasant
surprises, planting near windows and doors so that the perfume can waft
indoors. The swooning scent of a daphne on a sunny spring afternoon, or of
jasmine on a balmy evening, can make your day, and just a little planning will
see it happen. It’s lovely to let summer night-time fragrance drift in through
open windows. Honeysuckle (below bottom), jasmine or Trachelospermum
jasminoides over a porch or pergola will do the trick. Beds and containers can
be filled with Lilium regale or scented annuals such as heliotrope, with its rich
cherry aroma, Nicotiana (tobacco plant), or night-scented stocks for a tight
space. A raised bed of aromatic Mediterranean herbs such as lavender, thyme
and rosemary will thrive in a warm sunny corner, no matter how poor the soil.
Several fragrant winter- and spring-flowering shrubs are compact enough to
grow around doors and windows. Try the white-flowered Sarcococca confusa
(below top) beneath a window on a north-facing wall, or a daphne where there
is a bit more sun. The larger deciduous shrubs Abeliophyllum distichum and
Chimonanthus praecox are just as free with their winter and early spring
perfume. Plant them where there is an empty stretch of sunny wall to train
them on, and partner them with a summer-flowering clematis to scramble
through their branches. For shadier spots, plant a mint or lily-of-the-valley.
Garden shapes

Beautiful gardens can be made on plots of any shape and

size. Of course, there is no substitute for a well-proportioned
space – but most gardens don’t start out that way. Whether
yours is standard-issue rectangular or the wackiest mix of
angles or curves, you can use all sorts of tricks to alter, or
enhance, its apparent size and shape. Most shapes have
their pros and cons – to achieve a good layout, you just have
to make sure the pros win the day.

Amazingly, this garden is only 14m (45ft) square. Strong shapes, good verticals and action-
packed planting distract you from the boundaries. There’s more interest here than in most
gardens several times as big.

Thinking outside the box

Whatever you do, don’t make the perimeter the starting point for your
new design. Following the boundary lines will emphasize the shape
of the plot and make it look smaller. Never, ever make narrow
borders along the fences, leaving what’s left as a lawn in the middle.
Start, instead, from the other end of the telescope. Think not in terms
of boundaries but in terms of open spaces – even small ones.
So, plan well-defined, strongly shaped spaces for the heart of your
plot. The best take their cue from the shapes and proportions of the
house, giving house and garden a clear sense of unity, which can be
reinforced through your choice of hard landscaping materials (see
here). Other strong shapes might include a lawn in the shape of a
circle, or two circles or diagonally positioned rectangles that interlock
with each other.
Having determined the open areas, start to plan planting and
features to give your layout structure and purpose, and to fill any
‘dead space’ left around the edges. This will distract attention from
the garden’s shape and blur the boundaries.

Using space creatively

On all but the tiniest plot, plan a walkable route so that you can stroll
into the garden and return to the house a different way. It needn’t all
be a major path. Part of the route could cross an open space such
as a lawn or paved area, and steppingstones or narrow, bark-
surfaced paths could form part of the circuit. Plan a series of
interesting things along the way – specimen plants, seats,
containers, a water feature – each one leading to the next.
Use changes of level to define separate areas. These can either
be created by terracing an existing slope (see here), or contrived
artificially on a flat site (but don’t forget that for every up there will
have to be a corresponding down).
Contrasting areas of light and shade can bring changes of mood
and invite you to walk on. Light and shade, and colour, can also be
used to alter the apparent shape of a space by creating the illusion
of distance and depth (see also here). Dark colours tend to recede
while light colours appear nearer. You’ll be amazed at the effect of
painting structures black, for example; it makes a fence or shed
virtually disappear. Black also makes a flattering backdrop to
planting in front of it – useful for creating a sense of depth. Golden or
silver foliage, or architectural plants, look really striking with a black
backdrop, as do shapely bare twigs or frost-covered seedheads,
enhanced by low winter sunshine.
Keeping just one long view will give an impression of distance and
space in the garden. It doesn’t have to be a main path: any clear
sight line will do, perhaps with a focal point just visible at the far end.
Mirrors are useful tools for giving the impression of a larger space,
but must be at just the right angle, and set among planting or behind
trellis, to hide the edges and make the illusion work.

The awkward shape

For all sorts of reasons, some gardens are just a funny shape.
Boundaries may have changed over the years, and bits of land been
acquired or sold off, or sheds demolished, or a house extended. The
shape of a house and its position on a plot can leave you with an
awkward space, or even a whole series of them, but applying some
of the techniques outlined above can help turn the situation to
advantage. An awkward plot outline can prompt inventive ways of
creating spaces within it that will make a more interesting and
original garden than a ‘standard’ site such as a square or oblong.
You’ll soon forget you ever thought you had a difficult site.

Don’t forget

‘Borrowing’ features such as trees from neighbouring gardens, by

leaving open views to them where you can, will distract attention
from your own boundaries and make your garden seem bigger.
 Tips and tricks
If you can’t see the whole of a space at once, it will feel larger.
Looking down a slope or a step makes a given area seem longer.
An open area feels sunnier if you go through shade to reach it.
A narrow entrance into a space will make the space feel bigger when you
get there.
A path that narrows slightly as you walk (or look) along it feels longer.
The direction in which paving bricks or slabs are laid can make a path look
longer (if they are laid lengthways) or wider (if laid crosswise).
Still water, with its reflective surface, makes a space appear larger.

A stone lion framed by formal hedging is a focal point across the lawn, with an ‘avenue’ of
topiary to lead the eye. The long view gives the impression of a larger space.

Square gardens
A square garden may be dead easy to measure and to plot on paper
especially if it’s flat, but it can be quite a challenge to turn it into
something interesting. Clever planting will be one of your best allies,
along with thinking in three dimensions and using strong shapes like
diagonals or curves. Experiment with hexagons or octagons too –
they will connect with the formal lines of the square while introducing
a different directional pull.

Screens used to divide a garden don’t need to be solid. Trellis is often ideal, allowing light
and air to pass through and giving climbing plants an instant foothold.

Divide and conquer

Breaking up the garden into distinct areas is the first step in
overcoming the predictability of a square space, but this needs to be
done very subtly so the divisions don’t look too contrived. Planting is
often the best way – it’s amazingly versatile and a welcome natural
touch to complement and contrast with the geometry. Use plants,
such as a tree or bamboo, to create height; separate spaces at a low
level with a dwarf box hedge (or Euonymus japonicus ‘Microphyllus’
if box blight is a problem); or use tall grasses, the slender-stemmed
Verbena bonariensis or a climber on a trellis to act as a semi-
transparent screen.
Curves and circles here counteract the ‘boxiness’ of a square plot. There are raised seating
areas (1) and (3), with a screened utility area (4), and a pergola (1) and trees (2) for height.

Courtyard gardens
Though often square, these are less problematic than larger square gardens
because there won’t be room for major divisions of the space, and the scale is
intimate enough for a real ‘outdoor room’. Contemporary design (see here)
works very well for a courtyard garden. You’ll find inspiration in the great
variety of small gardens built each year for the Chelsea Flower Show. The
most successful ones are those that bring together several features or
incidents – perhaps a welcoming entrance, a seating area, a water feature
and some cracking planting – into a coherent whole, with a unifying design
theme that runs through the colours, materials and shapes used. You can
create elements of surprise by having small areas hidden by planting, or by
tucking a sculpture or unusual specimen plant into a corner where it can only
be seen from certain angles.

Three dimensions
Height and levels are more important than ever in a square garden.
If possible, set at least one part of the garden at a different level –
perhaps a raised bed or semi-raised pond. Even a single low step
makes a big difference if its position and shape emphasize the
structure and proportions of your garden.
Long, narrow gardens
Long and narrow is without doubt the most common ‘problem’ shape
for a garden. Look out of a train window as you go through older
areas of towns and cities and you’ll see them by the dozen. In the
case of terraced houses, the garden will usually be the same width
as the dwelling; with semi-detached houses it will be a little wider.
Either way, it’s all too easy for the garden to look and feel like a
passageway, particularly when there are tall wooden fences on
either side and a long straight path to the end.

A winding path through dense, varied planting within a framework of evergreens completely
hides the boundaries of this narrow town garden.
Making compartments
What you need to do is to turn the garden – both physically and
visually – into a place to linger in, rather than one to rush through.
The tried and tested trick of dividing up the space will work a treat
here. Think of the garden as a series of smaller spaces, each one
related to and leading on to the next. This feeling of connectedness
can be achieved by repeating hard landscape materials, or colours
or particular plants. An element of the unexpected will be important
as you enter the different areas, so ensure that at least part of each
space is hidden. Then consider what you want from the garden and
what form you would like each area to take. Your chosen
combination might be a romantic, fragrant flower garden, a play area
and a compact kitchen garden; or a contemporary dining and
barbecue area, a lawn with a couple of fruit trees and a small water
garden. Compartments need to be linked to form a coherent whole,
but preferably not by means of a straight line. Experiment with
different ways of interlocking the shapes, and use diagonals, S
shapes and other curves as a distraction from the parallel
boundaries.
A narrow garden becomes a series of linked areas set diagonally crosswise. A patio (1)
overlooks a gravel area with a pond (2), leading to a lawn (3), then through an arch to a
meadow area (4).

Pushing the boundaries sideways

Take every opportunity to emphasize the plot’s width – perhaps by
having a seat and a focal point at opposite ends of a paved or
grassed area that runs across the garden, or by using a mirror to
create the illusion of a space beyond the boundary. Incorporate
sideways or diagonal views of things outside the garden if you can –
a neighbour’s tree, a distant landscape or just a patch of sky. Use
trees or a structure such as an arch or pergola to lead the eye to
these ‘borrowed’ features. And finally, use plants to disguise fences.
If at all possible, make a visual link between your planting and trees
or shrubs outside your garden – it will give the illusion of a much
bigger planted area and help to make your boundary disappear
altogether.

Triangular gardens
OK, so there may not be many gardens in the shape of a perfect
triangle. But if you include all the odd-shaped plots with converging
boundaries, plus the wedge-shaped pieces of garden that get left
when a house is awkwardly angled on its site, they add up to a
significant number of design challenges. Just as with other difficult
plot shapes, the solution lies in using strong shapes to focus
attention completely within the garden rather than on its corners and
boundaries.

A reflective pool gives this inspired London garden another dimension. Vertical plants focus
attention within the garden, while the neighbours’ ‘borrowed’ trees blur the boundaries.

Making the most of it

With any irregularly shaped garden, figure out how to make the best
use of the longest dimensions, in order to make the plot look larger.
One way is to base your layout on an irregular cross shape, with the
two axes running at right angles across the widest part and down the
longest part of the garden. Use clever planting to create the illusion
that the garden is as wide and as long as this all over, rather than
disappearing into – literally – the thin end of the wedge. Other
shapes to consider are overlapping circles or squares of different
sizes, or an elongated octagon or hexagon. Mirrors can also be used
to make the narrow end of the plot look wider.

Rectangles for a triangular plot: a patio (1) opens to a lawn (2), which is linked to a gravel
area with a pergola (3) – a long axial view. The ‘dead end’ becomes a screened utility area
(4).

Wide, shallow gardens

These gardens can make you feel short of ‘breathing space’, with a
neighbour’s fence uncomfortably close to your windows. Front
gardens, too, are often wide and shallow, but they tend to be less
enclosed than back gardens, so the shape is less of a problem.
Creating depth and distance: a clematis-clad arch leads into an open area which narrows
into a path disappearing into shade.

Creating depth
The priority with a shallow garden is to create an illusion of depth
and distance. Some of the techniques for long, narrow gardens (see
here) work equally well turned through 90 degrees. Borrow views
from beyond your garden, and use every trick in the book to make
the far boundary recede or disappear. You can manipulate
perspective by making a path that leads towards the boundary
slightly narrower as it runs from the house to the fence – apparently
lengthening it. Changes in mood or light along a path – such as the
alternating sequence of light and shade that you get beneath a
pergola or along an avenue of trees – also appear to increase
distance. Planting will be a key part of the illusion; you can choose
and position plants to create depth (see also here) – a light-coloured
shrub against a dark yew hedge or conifer will make the distance
between the two plants appear greater than it is.
The third dimension
Height too can be used as a distraction. Tall, vertical plants and
structures to the sides of the garden, contrasted with shorter,
horizontal ones along the end boundary, will bring the sides in and
appear to lengthen the plot. Tall, interestingly shaped plants grouped
around a feature at ground level, such as a pond, will subtly draw
attention downwards. Tricks like this help to keep the focus of your
vision firmly within the garden rather than on the too-close boundary.

Tall planting (1), (2) and (3) brings in the sides of this wide garden, contrasting with a circle
of low planting (4) around a bird bath. The deck timbers (5) are laid lengthways to suggest
depth.
FOCUS ON Front gardens

Front gardens can be quite a challenge. They are demanding

in terms of practicalities – access, parking and so on – but
they need to look good because they are constantly on view
and they give that important first impression to visitors. They
can also give pleasure to passers-by. However, you yourself
probably spend little time in your front garden, other than
when you’re coming in and going out, so it should be
relatively undemanding to maintain.

Parking and practicalities

Parking space will probably have to be accommodated, and perhaps
access to a garage (which may not be a pretty sight, especially when
its doors are open) and to the back of the house. Other requirements
will include clear access to the front door, and perhaps some
screening to shield you from road noise and the gaze of people
going past your house. Consider all these practicalities first. Be
ready to abandon an existing layout if you feel it doesn’t work –
though if you can make use of existing features, such as a mature
hedge or a change of level, it will make the job easier and give your
new-look frontage a head start. Try not to let cars dominate the
entrance to the house. If there’s space to tuck them out of sight,
think about making a parking area distinct from the entrance and
perhaps shielded, at least partly, by evergreen planting. Make sure
you leave sight lines clear for cars to exit safely into the road.
Simple, no-fuss planting is best in a front garden, where you may not want to spend much
time on maintenance. Euphorbias and phormiums will give strong year-round structure to
a sunny front garden.

Variegated ivy and hostas in containers make a stylish and welcoming entrance around a
shady front door.
Imagine how different these two front entrances would look without their plants. Harsh
concrete steps are much improved by the varied evergreens in containers.

Exuberant and exotic planting transforms a tucked-away entrance into an inviting oasis.

Making an entrance
The focal point of a front garden should be the entrance to the house
– rather than the garage or parked cars. Suitable planting and
lighting will help here. Placing container plants around the front door
is a good idea. They make the entrance look welcoming and cared
for, and they can be planted with different combinations through the
year, so that there is always something looking its best. Keep
permanent planting in the front garden simple, with structure – such
as evergreen shrubs – where it’s needed, and good ground cover.
Remember that it will be seen every day of the year, so include
plants that have winter interest such as unexpected fragrance or
surprisingly colourful flowers even on gloomy days.
 Permeable surfaces
The key issue of the moment for front gardens is the alarming rate at which
they are being lost in order to create parking space. UK planning legislation
changed in the wake of the floods of 2007, when many properties flooded
because run-off from driveways overloaded urban drainage systems. Now,
you may find that you are no longer able to cover your front garden with an
impermeable surface without planning permission, so tarmac, concrete and
mortared paving are out. However, there are several other options if you need
a parking space.

GRAVEL
Cheap and easy to lay, aggregates such as shingle or chippings give a
reasonably firm surface that can be driven on and that will absorb rainwater
rather than creating run-off problems. There is a wide choice of materials and
colours, from pea-shingle to slate or limestone chippings. Gravel is also an
effective security measure: it is noisy to walk on and this can deter potential
intruders.

PERMEABLE BLOCK PAVING

Some types of block paving are designed to allow rainwater to escape through
the unmortared joints and into the sand layer beneath. You can achieve a
similar effect by using various combinations of paving units and aggregates,
such as setts or cobbles set into shingle or chippings.

REINFORCED GRASS
Most useful for areas where cars are not parked permanently, this works by
reinforcing the ground with concrete or plastic cellular units or netting, into
which soil and grass seed are introduced. The grass grows quite happily and
the man-made reinforcing units help prevent it being worn away.

LOW PLANTING
Car tyres can be catered for by providing firm standing on the two ‘tracks’, but
plant low perennials and shrubs, such as thymes, ivies, helianthemums and
other carpeters, in between for a softer look.
 Clothing the house
A climber or wall shrub works in partnership with the building it grows on, and
each should complement the other. So, just as it’s best to choose clothes that
suit your particular colouring, it makes sense to select climbers that will go
well with your walls. Complementary colours tend to work well together, and
dark flowers against a pale background or vice versa. A blue clematis on a
cream wall looks lovely, for example, while a shocking-pink rose or a red
clematis against red brick is at best a wasted opportunity. Here are some
ideas for climbers and wall plants that will make your house look classy:

AGAINST RED BRICK

Shade Clematis ‘Marie Boisselot’; Euonymus fortunei ‘Silver Queen’; ×
Fatshedera lizei

Semi-shade Clematis ‘Wedding Day’; Hedera canariensis ‘Gloire de

Marengo’; Lonicera periclymenum ‘Graham Thomas’; Rosa ‘The Generous
Gardener’
Sun Abeliophyllum distichum; Abutilon vitifolium ‘Tennant’s White’; Myrtus
communis

AGAINST STONEWORK
Shade Hedera helix ‘Parsley Crested’; Parthenocissus henryana

Semi-shade Clematis ‘Polish Spirit’; Cotoneaster horizontalis; Rosa ‘Danse

du Feu’
Sun Actinidia kolomikta; Campsis × tagliabuana; Ceanothus ‘Concha’; Itea
ilicifolia

AGAINST CREAM OR WHITE RENDER

Shade Garrya elliptica; Rosa ‘Tess of the d’Urbervilles’

Semi-shade Clematis ‘Frances Rivis’; Hedera algeriensis ‘Ravensholst’;

Lonicera ‘Firecracker’; Ribes speciosum; Rosa ‘Parkdirektor Riggers’
Sun Ficus carica; Vitis vinifera ‘Purpurea’; Tropaeolum speciosum
AGAINST DARK WEATHERBOARDING
Shade Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus’; Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris

Semi-shade Chaenomeles × superba ‘Crimson and Gold’; Pyracantha

‘Saphyr Jaune’; Rosa ‘The Pilgrim’
Sun Clematis tangutica; Parthenocissus tricuspidata; Rosa ‘Climbing Iceberg’;
Rosa ‘Félicité Perpétue’; Trachelospermum jasminoides; Wisteria sinensis
Contemporary gardens

The ongoing rejuvenation of many inner city areas has

helped stir up a lot of interest in the design of contemporary
small gardens. Outdoor spaces such as enclosed courtyards
and roof gardens are a good starting point for creating clean-
lined, modern outdoor rooms that don’t need to worry too
much about blending in with their wider setting. But when it
comes to the planting in such intimate spaces, you’ll realize
there’s nowhere to hide your mistakes – so you need to
make sure everything is spot on.

Sustainable local materials and drought-resistant planting – topical themes in this 2005
Chelsea Flower Show courtyard garden, by staff and students of Chichester College.

Materials and plants

A contemporary look requires a clutter-free space with plenty of light.
This applies no matter how big or small the garden, though
contemporary design is particularly effective in making small spaces
look and feel bigger (see also here). Consider pale-coloured or
reflective construction materials: metal, glass, ceramic, perhaps set
off by colour-washed walls. Garden furniture should be well
designed, almost sculptural, and planting will probably need to be
fairly minimal and architectural (see here). Plants with strong
shapes, such as those with spiky foliage, are well suited to
contemporary gardens. Grasses really come into their own – there
are so many different ones available nowadays. Plant colours used
in contemporary schemes are often cool, with strong contrasts:
moody blackish purple with lime green, for example. White and silver
are effective, too, looking very chic against a dark background or in
the shade. Feed, water, weed and dead-head regularly: plants need
to be in tip-top condition for the crisp, clean look you’re after.

Plant ideas for contemporary schemes

Allium hollandicum
Cordyline australis
Eryngium giganteum
Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii
Fargesia nitida
Fatsia japonica
Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’
Helictotrichon sempervirens
Hosta sieboldiana
Iris pallida ‘Variegata’
Phormium ‘Maori Queen’
Santolina chamaecyparissus ‘Lemon Queen’
Sedum spectabile ‘Iceberg’
Sempervivum tectorum ‘Atrorubens’
Sisyrinchium striatum
Stipa gigantea
Yucca filamentosa ‘Bright Edge’
A detail of a Chelsea garden by Kate Gould, using materials favoured in contemporary
design: brushed steel, decking and the tough perennial sedge Carex buchananii.

Roof gardens
Roof gardens aren’t new by any means, but increasingly they are
being seen as a practical option by city dwellers; in fact, a roof
garden may be your only option if you live in an upstairs flat. But first,
make quite sure that it will be structurally sound. It may be necessary
to strengthen the existing building to take the load, so consult a
structural engineer before you even think about creating a roof
garden. If it works, you will have the benefit of views to die for, as
well as great light and a curious sense of seclusion that ground-
hugging gardens can’t match. All this lends itself well to a
contemporary design.
Wind is sure to be a challenge, and you will need to create shelter
and shade. Construction materials need to be chosen with the
location in mind. A purpose-made roof garden on a new building may
have solid walls for shelter, but this may not be the case if you are
adapting an existing structure. Soundly fixed trellis is light and will
filter the wind, and decking is often a good choice of flooring (see
here).
 Choose plants that can withstand regular buffetings. Think
drought-tolerant, too. Those winds will dry plants very rapidly,
especially if there isn’t much depth of soil, and access for watering
may not be easy. So build your scheme around undemanding plants:
succulents such as sedums and sempervivums, low shrubs with
felted or leathery leaves and tough, wiry grasses. Sheltered corners
are ideal for suntrap seating, and for tubs of dwarf spring bulbs and
seasonal colour.

‘Black’ plants
Perhaps more than any other colour, black (or at least very dark) plants –
sought after by nurserymen and gardeners alike – are particularly effective in
a contemporary setting. Here are some favourites:
Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’
Alcea rosea ‘Nigra’
Anthriscus sylvestris ‘Ravenswing’
Euphorbia ‘Blackbird’
Geranium pratense ‘Black Beauty’
Helleborus (many dark forms available)
Hermodactylus tuberosus
Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’
Phormium ‘Platt’s Black’
Phyllostachys nigra
Pittosporum tenuifolium ‘Tom Thumb’
Sambucus nigra ‘Gerda’ (‘Black Beauty’)
Scabiosa atropurpurea ‘Chile Black’
Tulipa ‘Queen of Night’
Veratrum nigrum
Viola riviniana Purpurea Group
 Seeking inspiration
Visiting one of the growing number of annual flower shows staged in various
parts of the UK from spring to autumn is undoubtedly the best way to sample
contemporary design and planting ideas, ranging from the down-to-earth and
practical to the way-out and wacky. The key events are organized by the
Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), which awards medals to nursery exhibits
and display gardens that are constructed specially for the show. Many of the
show gardens are small, and special categories such as urban gardens and
courtyard gardens are chosen for their practical relevance to garden owners.
Make notes, take photos and talk to the exhibitors, who are usually on hand
and only too willing to share their ideas and tips. Good shows to visit (most of
them are also televised) include:
RHS Spring Flower Show (Cardiff, April)
RHS Chelsea Flower Show (London, May)
BBC Gardeners’ World Live (Birmingham, June)
RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show (Surrey, July)
RHS Flower Show at Tatton Park (Cheshire, July)

RHS Flower Show at Malvern Autumn Show (Worcestershire, September)

Clean lines, stark colours and minimal planting are typical of many contemporary schemes.
In this one by Diarmuid Gavin, a similarly styled roof terrace overlooks the oval deck.
Cottage gardens

Garden fashions come and go, but the cottage garden

seems to be a true perennial. With its luxuriance and its wide
range of plants, this is a style that lends itself to the British
climate and temperament. Although the exuberant planting
scheme of a typical garden may look artless, its success will
depend on choosing the right plants and exercising a little
restraint.

Unpretentious yet dramatic, oriental poppies suit cottage gardens well. They need space,
but cut them down after flowering and plant summer annuals around their crowns.

Controlled exuberance
The most successful cottage gardens do have an underlying
structure, however discreet. The hand of restraint may not be
obvious, and the effect is probably better if it isn’t, but it needs to be
there all the same, to prevent the plants from engulfing one another
and to provide some contrast to the luxuriance, so it doesn’t all seem
indigestible. Anything harsh, modern or clumsy is out, but limited
areas of open space – such as paving or soft paths – are necessary
to set off the billowing planting and invite you to wander through it,
while hedges and fences, or perhaps some topiary, will create a
contrasting backdrop. These structural elements help to hold the
garden together and extend the season of interest so there is
something to enjoy in winter, when the flowers have faded.

Self-sowing flowers such as aquilegias and forget-me-nots are invaluable in cottage borders
– especially (as here at Eastgrove Cottage) in spring, before roses take centre stage.

Cottage gardens through time

Certain key elements of the traditional cottage garden style fit in well
with today’s enthusiasm for sustainable gardening. Keeping the
ground densely covered with plants helps to save both work and
water, since weeds are suppressed and evaporation is reduced.
Mingling flowers with vegetables, fruit and herbs (see here) looks
good and helps foil pests and diseases, while self-sufficiency – an
idea born out of necessity in times past – is now finding favour again.
Cottagers were great recyclers, finding decorative garden uses for
household cast-offs and reusing building materials such as bricks,
chimney pots and roof tiles for different purposes. Other materials
would have been locally sourced: sustainable hazel or willow for
wigwams and plant supports, perhaps, and hurdles for fencing and
gates, or for edging beds. Willow and hazel hurdles have become
popular again today, and can even be fixed to an existing close-
boarded or panel fence to fit in with the cottage garden style. Choose
garden furniture carefully so it doesn’t spoil the effect: rustic, antique
or simple bistro-style tables and chairs would be good choices.

Cottage garden planting

As to plants, the popular perception of a cottage garden is that
anything goes, but the overall effect will be much more successful
with a little discreet planning. As you head for yet another nursery,
keep a few design principles in mind. Select some backbone plants –
evergreens like holly, yew or santolina as well as strongly shaped
perennials (alliums, eryngiums, irises) to add structure and texture
and keep interest going through the seasons. If there’s room for a
tree, you may want an apple, with a clematis to climb through it, or a
plum. You’ll probably want plenty of ‘old-fashioned’ plants in the
borders – perhaps aquilegias, foxgloves, hollyhocks, poppies, violas,
pinks, wallflowers, sweet peas, lavender, honeysuckle … the list
goes on. Plants that self-seed (see ‘Volunteers’, here) encapsulate
the spirit of cottage gardening and help lend coherence to the
planting scheme, often positioning themselves in just the right place.
Whatever you choose, the overall impression should be artless – no
matter how much forethought and effort have gone into achieving it.
 ‘Volunteers’
American gardeners still use this old term to mean plants that have sown
themselves. Many plants will reproduce themselves indefinitely in the right
conditions – provided, of course, that you leave the flowerheads to ripen and
shed their seed. This is no hardship in the case of poppies and love-in-a-mist,
whose intricate, shapely seedheads are part of their charm. Plants like this
can be invaluable when you are trying to create a ‘cottagey’ effect. True, such
plants can become weeds if they are not properly managed, but they have
many advantages, and unwanted seedlings are easy to pull up when small.
So learn to recognize these no-fuss arrivals when they appear in your borders
– every garden will have its own ‘specialities’. They will be the plants that are
naturally happy there; they won’t need cosseting, and they’ll make a
harmonious backdrop that will help your planting scheme hang together – and
all for free!
Some self-sowers to encourage:
Allium Aquilegia (columbine)
Cyclamen
Erigeron karvinskianus
Eryngium giganteum
Eschscholzia californica (Californian poppy)
Euphorbia characias
Helleborus (hellebore)
Hesperis matronalis (sweet rocket)
Limnanthes douglasii (poached-egg plant)
Lunaria annua (honesty)
Myosotis (forget-me-not)
Nigella (love-in-a-mist)
Papaver somniferum (opium poppy)
Primula veris (cowslip)
Stipa tenuissima
Verbena bonariensis
Viola riviniana Purpurea Group
There’s nothing quite like sweet peas, one of the old-fashioned hallmarks of cottage
gardening. Build a rustic structure of poles to support them and give height to the garden.
 Easy cottage garden perennials
Ajuga reptans ‘Catlin’s Giant’
Alchemilla mollis
Anemone × hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’
Armeria maritima
Aster × frikartii ‘Mönch’
Astrantia
Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’
Campanula poscharskyana
Centranthus ruber
Dianthus
Echinops ritro
Geranium psilostemon
Geum rivale ‘Leonard’s Variety’
Inula hookeri
Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’
Pulmonaria
Thalictrum delavayi
Wildlife gardens

Garden design entails creating a whole environment. This

involves not just the look of a garden but the life and
movement that help make it a special place to be. Anyone
who has a garden rich in wildlife will tell you that the
creatures give them at least as much pleasure throughout
the year as the plants. Watching your ‘own’ little ecosystem
on a daily basis gives you an intimate knowledge and
understanding of a host of fascinating lives and life-cycles,
together with a constant sense of wonderment.

Foxgloves are ideal for a wildlife garden. They take over in early summer, when the
profusion of spring flowers has come to an end, and if they are happy they will self-seed,
increasing the size of colony year on year. Bees love them, too.

Designing for wildlife

First, there’s no need to transform your garden into a wilderness, nor
to fill it with native plants. Ordinary gardens with ordinary planting
can attract a whole range of wildlife with great success, provided of
course that food chains aren’t interrupted by the use of pesticides
such as sprays and slug pellets. Habitats, too, must be preserved
and not destroyed by over-zealous trimming, strimming and
obsessive tidiness – particularly in spring and summer. Good design
and wildlife gardening aren’t in the least incompatible, and the usual
principles still apply – from creating focal points to balancing planted
areas with open spaces, or choosing a mixture of plant shapes and
types for interest in different seasons. There are, though, a few key
features that will make a real difference to the balance of wildlife in
your garden.

Planting for wildlife

Shelter and natural food for your wild guests should be your first
priority. Hedges, trees and shrubs, including some evergreens for
winter cover, provide not only places to hide and build nests, but also
food in the shape of small insects and caterpillars, as well as winter
berries. Include some native plants if you can. Many native trees,
such as oak and ash, are too vigorous for the average garden, but
hawthorn, birch, crab-apple and rowan are easier to accommodate,
and are all attractive garden trees in their own right. Delay cutting
down herbaceous plants until early spring and you may notice that in
winter they attract seed-eaters, including goldfinches and
chaffinches, as well as dunnocks, tits and wrens searching among
them for tiny insects. Blackbirds and thrushes will keep you
entertained with their enthusiastic rummaging among the dead
leaves.
Boosting your garden’s insect population by introducing a good
mixture of different plants can be beneficial all round. With luck you
will attract pest-eating predators such as hoverflies, ladybirds,
spiders, lacewings and ground beetles. They are fascinating to
watch at close quarters as well as being valuable gardening allies,
helping to control aphids, slugs and many other pests. Open-centred
flowers such as poppies, evening primroses and poached-egg
flowers are good for hoverflies, while bees delight in catmint,
foxgloves, eryngiums, sedums and many herbs such as thyme, mint,
lavender and hyssop. Butterflies and moths use a huge range of
plants as food for caterpillars or a nectar source for adults on the
wing. Try Centranthus ruber (red valerian), Sedum spectabile (ice-
plant), buddleia and Verbena bonariensis.

Wildlife and water

A pond (see here) is a magnet for all kinds of wildlife, attracting not
only breeding frogs and other amphibians but also birds in search of
a drink, or a plumage-restoring bath, or mud to help build their nests.
Other visitors are likely to include hedgehogs and other small
mammals, as well as bees and many different insects, among them
several glamorous species of dragonfly and damselfly.
Another feature that will boost your garden’s wildlife potential is
the compost heap, a favourite hideout for centipedes, voles and the
slug-eating slow-worm. Piles of logs, sticks or stones tucked under a
shady hedge encourage newts, frogs and toads to lurk, and will also
attract beetles, woodlice and other garden-friendly invertebrates.

A pond doesn’t need to be huge or deep to make all the difference to garden wildlife, but it
does need a gently sloping edge for access.
 Ten shrubs for wildlife
Buddleja (butterfly bush)
Cotoneaster
Euonymus europaeus (spindle)
Hedera (ivy)
Hippophae rhamnoides (sea buckthorn)
Ilex (holly – species and varieties)
Prunus spinosa (blackthorn)
Pyracantha (firethorn)
Rosa rugosa (Ramana rose)
Viburnum opulus (guelder rose)

The outsize hips of Rosa rugosa – a feast for the human eye and, in hard
weather, for fruit-eating birds.
Positioning a birdbox high up a tree, but with easy access so you can clean it, will give
nesting birds some protection from predatory cats.

Planting generous drifts of nectar-rich plants (here, Michaelmas daisies) will help butterflies
find their way to your garden.
Family gardens

A family garden is all about having something for everyone –

easy to achieve if you have lots of space, but harder in a
small town garden. A patio (see here), a lawn, a child-sized
gardening area and a couple of well-designed pieces of
outdoor play equipment form a good basis for a variety of
outdoor pastimes, but the possibilities are endless.

Willow is a wonderfully easy, cheap and eco-friendly material for play structures such as a
tunnel or a den like this. And building them is part of the fun, whether you’re seven or 70.

Lawns
Not every garden needs a lawn (see here), but if you have a young
family it is likely to be a priority. As a versatile, soft-surfaced open
space for play and relaxation, lawns are hard to beat. You don’t want
a bowling green, just a tough grass mixture that can take a lot of
punishment. (If you’re starting from scratch, buy a special, hard-
wearing grass-seed mix.) Don’t cut the grass too short or you might
end up with bare patches, especially in areas of heavy wear.

Gardening with children

Lots of young children find great delight in gardening and the magic
of making things grow. Children can be involved in the planning and
building of a specially designed little garden of their own, where they
can grow plants that produce quick results. A timber raised bed,
narrow enough for short arms to reach from both sides, is simple to
construct (see here). If you edge it with stout planks nailed or
screwed to posts sunk into the ground it should last as long as it
needs to, and will give a lot of pleasure. A semi-shaded spot could
be used for a small, acrylic-glazed cold frame, where seeds can be
sown and cuttings rooted. And paths surfaced with chipped bark,
with a seat and small table nearby, will finish it off nicely.

Growing organically
Many parents now choose to garden organically. As well as producing
chemical-free food, this eliminates the risk of children coming into contact with
potentially harmful substances such as pesticides and weedkillers.

Play equipment
A vast selection of play equipment made from natural materials is
now available and will look far better in a garden setting than brightly
coloured plastic, which never seems to mellow and can be hard to
dispose of sustainably when no longer needed. You could of course
spend thousands on a bespoke tree house or a sophisticated
climbing frame, but children will have just as much fun, at a fraction
of the cost, with a tunnel created from slips of living willow, a worn-
out rowing boat picked up second-hand, or a sandpit made from a
circle of logs set vertically into the ground or from a cleaned-up
tractor or lorry tyre.
 Swimming pools
In hot weather what could be more perfect than your own swimming pool, but
the design challenge is how to incorporate it without letting such a large
feature dominate the garden. If you have the space, a separate, hedged
enclosure is probably the best solution, ideally free from overhanging trees
that will drop leaves into the water. You can plant the area exclusively for
seasonal summer colour and fragrance to enjoy while you’re using the pool,
and forget about it for the rest of the year.
There are, however, other ways for swimming and gardening to go hand in
hand. A good swimming pool installer with a little imagination should be able
to offer you a tailor-made, harmonious design that is more garden-friendly
than the standard bright blue rectangular box. An exciting new development is
the ‘swimming pond’, a pool that looks and behaves like a natural pond.
Aquatic plants chosen specifically to keep the water clean naturally, without
the need for chemicals, are planted around the shallow margins, and there is
a deeper, central area of open water for swimming. These ponds are a
specialist construction job, but several companies in the UK now operate in
this field.

Planting for a young family

Your garden may have to cater for budding footballers and games of
hide-and-seek, but that doesn’t mean plants are doomed. Choice,
delicate specimens may have to wait a few years, but there are
hundreds of attractive shrubs and perennials for which a few knocks
are all in a day’s work. Don’t expect miracles – any plant deserves a
bit of respect, after all – but try some of these:
Ajuga reptans ‘Catlin’s Giant’
Alchemilla mollis
Buxus sempervirens ‘Elegantissima’
Carex oshimensis ‘Evergold’
Chaenomeles × superba ‘Crimson and Gold’
Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’
Cotoneaster horizontalis
Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ’n’ Gold’
Geranium × magnificum
Ilex × altaclerensis ‘Golden King’
Jasminum nudiflorum
Jasminum officinale
Lonicera nitida ‘Baggesen’s Gold’
Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’
Phlomis fruticosa
Rosmarinus officinalis
Sarcococca confusa
Tellima grandiflora Rubra Group
Thymus citriodorus
Verbena bonariensis
Vinca minor ‘La Grave’

Football needn’t make your garden an eyesore. Designer Cleve West’s goal is imaginatively
created from sustainable materials – an attractive feature, yet practical and robust.
Cotoneaster horizontalis – an undemanding shrub that looks presentable all year and
makes a useful filler for a family garden. Birds will enjoy the berries in winter, too.

Don’t forget

Water and safety are key considerations in a family garden. With

very small children, even shallow open water is a potential hazard.
Unless you want to go to the expense of covering it with a stout
metal grille, it’s best to wait until children are older before creating
a pond of any depth. Some other kind of water feature, such as a
fountain or bubble-jet pebble pool with an inaccessible,
underground reservoir, would be much safer.
 Hazardous plants
An exhaustive list of garden plants that it’s wise not to eat could fill a book. It
goes without saying that children should be taught about the dangers as well
as the pleasures of plants. There are a few common garden plants that look
tempting but are dangerously poisonous if accidentally eaten, and others that
commonly cause allergic skin reactions. You may prefer not to grow these
until children are older:

Aconitum Euphorbia

Arum Ipomoea

Brugmansia Laburnum (below right)

Colchicum (below left) Ricinus

Daphne Ruta

Digitalis Taxus
Formal gardens

The formal garden comes with an impeccable pedigree.

Stately homes with parterres, balustraded terraces and
billiard-table lawns spring to mind, but formality has a
valuable role to play in many a more modest establishment.
Often based on evergreen planting, the formal garden has
year-round interest and can be low-maintenance. Some
would say this style is more important than ever in the small,
neat, town gardens that are features of many modern homes.

Symmetry and geometric shapes are critical to formal gardens but needn’t look severe if
combined with some informal planting – as in this 1997 Chelsea Flower Show garden
designed by Xa Tollemache.

A geometric layout is what separates a traditional formal garden from

the rest. Straight lines and right-angled corners are typical. Curves in
the form of quarter- or semi-circles work well; other shapes may be
acceptable if they are repeated symmetrically. Nothing should be
free-form, abstract or (perish the thought) disorderly. The all-
important architectural elements comprise good-quality, classic hard-
landscaping materials (this goes for furniture and accessories too),
and small-leaved evergreens – typically box or yew – clipped into
wall-like hedges and topiary.

Achieving a formal garden

Formality is tricky on slopes, so if your garden isn’t level, do consider
the landscaping implications before you plan a formal garden.
Symmetrically laid out terraces, steps and paths will probably look
fantastic when it’s all finished, but make sure you are prepared for
the expense and disruption that will be necessary to create that kind
of garden. Even if no major earth-moving is involved, achieving the
precision finish that a formal garden requires will need really
meticulous attention to detail at every stage of planning and setting-
out, to make sure that surfaces are level and smooth, angles precise
and objects symmetrically positioned – and that’s before you even
begin to think about the planting.

Maintenance
Think twice (at least) about your attitude to maintenance before
launching into creating a formal garden. Even tiny lapses of attention
are all too obvious in a garden of trim, straight lines and clean, flat
surfaces. Lawns need to be in tip-top condition, gravel immaculately
raked, and hedges and other topiary perfectly and precisely
manicured.

Formal meets informal

Most of us probably wouldn’t want an entirely formal garden, but
whatever you do, don’t dismiss formality altogether. Above all, it’s a
great foil for informality. You can create both formal and informal
areas to give contrasts in mood between different parts of a garden;
formality works wonderfully well closer to the house; informality at a
distance. The great plantswoman and designer Gertrude Jekyll liked
to plant informally within a formal structure, often working in
partnership with the architect Sir Edwin Lutyens to create gardens
that became classic set pieces. But you don’t need to have a grand
garden to use their ideas. Jekyll’s use of colour harmonies in
planting, for example, can be adapted to smaller gardens, or even a
single border.
Show gardens – for example the small gardens at the Chelsea
Flower Show – often fit loose, romantic-style planting into strongly
designed, highly structural hard landscaping. You can pick up all
sorts of ideas from the ways in which different designers have
adapted this approach. One thing they have in common is that
formal elements, such as symmetrical paths and steps, and clipped
evergreens, ensure that the garden always has something to hold it
together, even in winter. But, at the same time, the shapes, textures
and colours change dramatically with the seasons – a pleasure that
isn’t easy to achieve in a wholly formal garden.

Seeking inspiration
Classic gardens to visit in the UK where you can see the formal and the
informal working successfully together include the National Trust’s Hidcote
Manor Garden, in Gloucestershire, and the late Christopher Lloyd’s garden,
Great Dixter, in East Sussex. Hidcote is a collection of garden ‘rooms’, formal
and informal, working together to create different moods and forming a
harmonious and satisfying whole. Dixter has exuberant, informal planting of
different kinds, all given structure by a formal framework of venerable old yew
hedging. If you want to see aspects of seriously stylish formal gardening, visit
Ham House in Richmond or Levens Hall in Cumbria.
Formal hedges should be dead straight. When clipping them, run a length of taut string
between two canes as a guide to ensure a level top.

Formal and informal can make excellent partners. Use topiary to contrast with meadow
planting (as at Great Dixter, above) or juxtapose clean, cool hard landscaping with a tumble
of foliage such as the grass Stipa tenuissima (left).
 Topiary
Topiary has never really gone out of fashion. It appeals both to the control-
freak end of the designer spectrum, for its strong architectural shapes (as in
clipped pyramids, spirals and ‘lollipops’), and to the quirky end, where the
sky’s the limit. There are many famous and much-photographed examples:
topiary teapots, snails and locomotives, even a hunt in full cry.
There is something very satisfying about creating your own topiary feature,
however small, and it can have a useful role in almost any kind of garden. A
simple, clipped box ball or cone in a carefully chosen container makes a great
focal point in even a tiny space; several of them, set along a path, give rhythm
and continuity to a design.

If you’re new to topiary, you’ll need a pair of good secateurs and some
small, sharp, one-handed shears (‘sheep-shears’ are ideal). Start with simple
shapes, and progress to more intricate forms as you get more confident. You
can buy wire frames in many different shapes, to put over the plant as a guide
to clip round as it grows. Be sure to keep the plants amply fed and watered:
plants that are continually clipped (especially those in containers) need to
replace lost nutrients if they are to stay well furnished with healthy greenery.

FOCUS ON Planning for low maintenance

For a lot of people, garden maintenance is a necessary evil.
Even keen gardeners often dislike repetitive chores such as
grass-cutting and hedge-clipping. But it’s actually quite
simple to turn the situation to advantage. Ask yourself which
tasks you least enjoy, and then spend some time re-planning
the garden to eliminate the drudgery and create low-
maintenance features that you know you will enjoy. After all,
a garden is meant to be a pleasure and not a burden. You’ll
be surprised how easy it is to say goodbye to garden
features that you don’t consider to be worth the trouble – and
how much better you’ll feel when you have a garden that is
right for you.

Lawns
The traditional view is that no garden is complete without a lawn (see
here), but looking after a lawn properly is actually quite hard work,
especially in a small garden where it may get intensive wear. All that
spiking, weeding, feeding and mowing can be a thing of the past if
you opt for a low-maintenance alternative – perhaps paving or gravel
softened by a cushion of mat-forming plants.
 Saving time and effort
There’s a lot you can do to make the garden less physically strenuous to look
after when your circumstances change. You might have taken on a very
demanding job that leaves little time for gardening, or recently started a family.
After retirement, too, the plan may be to spend more time in the garden but,
ironically, that’s just when the ground is beginning to seem a bit further away,
or the watering can a bit heavier. Whether you are trying to cheat the
advancing years or have other reasons to avoid undue exertion, here are
some ideas:
If you are a keen gardener, turn your attention to enjoying plants on a
smaller scale. A greenhouse, an upright cold frame or a potting shed can
open up pastimes such as growing from seed, propagating, or growing
specialist plants such as dwarf bulbs, bonsai, cacti and succulents, or alpines.
Re-plan borders with layered planting, which will mean minimal digging and
weeding. Create a tapestry of ground-cover plants with interesting foliage,
interplanted with spring bulbs. Weave in some tall, easy perennials for
summer colour and some shrubs to flower in spring or autumn. Include a few
evergreens – invaluable for both ground cover and winter structure.
Review your tool shed. Today there are many easy-to-use tools on offer that
are a real boon to people who need help with lifting, bending or gripping.

Hedges
Think seriously before replacing an existing hedge with fencing to
save on maintenance. Hedges have so many advantages, to wildlife
and the environment as well as to the look of your property. You
could replace an existing, high-maintenance hedge of privet, Leyland
cypress or Lonicera nitida, which needs regular trimming to keep it
neat, with a different hedging material. Some of the best native
hedging shrubs, such as yew, holly and beech, are very long-lived
and can be kept looking respectable with just one cut a year.
Beth Chatto’s inspired gravel garden is densely planted to suppress weeds, needs no
watering, and has no grass to mow – all excellent labour-saving tactics.

Raised beds
Anyone who has gardened in raised beds will tell you how much
easier they are to look after. Somehow the very idea of gardening in
a confined space makes the whole business seem more
manageable, and of course it’s far easier if you don’t have to bend
double to reach your plants. Plants, too, like raised beds, as they
don’t have to compete against encroaching weeds or battle through
compacted soil. You can plant more densely, and if the top of the bed
is at a convenient height it will double as a seat, and a place to put
your cup of tea.

HOW TO build a raised bed

Cut four 150 × 50mm (6 × 2in) planks to the size and shape of bed you require. Screw them
together, keeping the corners square, to create a frame. Cut four corner posts from 75 ×
75mm (3 × 3in) timber. Their length should be the height of the bed plus 30cm (12in) to
allow for sinking them into the ground.

Use the frame to position the four corner posts, and dig post holes in the correct positions.
Keep the posts upright, and sink them into the holes. For a small, temporary raised bed this
should suffice, but larger, permanent structures will need the posts set in concrete (see
here).

Build further layers of planks as in step 1 to the height of bed required. Screw the timbers to
the posts as well as to each other, staggering the joints as shown.
Finish the top with a shelf made from the same planking, mitred at the corners and screwed
to the posts. Add a 5cm (2in) layer of rubble or gravel to the bottom of the bed for drainage.
Fill with a mixture of good topsoil and garden compost.
 Low-maintenance planting for containers
A group of thoughtfully arranged containers always makes a garden look well
cared for, but it doesn’t need to involve hours of work, or cost a fortune, if you
choose the right plants. Start by building up a small ‘background’ collection of
all-season, low-maintenance shrubs and other plants, bought in 2- or 3-litre
pots and potted on into your chosen containers. Use a humus-rich compost or
mix in a moisture-retaining gel, and add a slow-release fertilizer. That way,
they will need repotting only once a year at most. Choose frost-resistant
containers in a mixture of shapes and sizes. You can ring the changes by
moving them around and adding a pot or two of seasonal colour, with bulbs or
bedding plants for example, when you see something you fancy in the garden
centre. Avoid being a slave to watering: choose relatively drought-tolerant
plants, and don’t let them become pot-bound or they will dry out very quickly.
Keep them out of full sun in summer. Here are some to try:

EVERGREEN SHRUBS
Buxus sempervirens ‘Elegantissima’; Fatsia japonica; Gaultheria procumbens;
Juniperus communis ‘Compressa’; Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’;
Skimmia japonica ‘Rubella’.

GRASSES
Carex buchananii; Festuca glauca; Stipa tenuissima.

SUCCULENTS and ‘EXOTICS’

Cordyline australis; Phormium; Sedum; Sempervivum.

Sempervivums are a great all-year standby, needing only good drainage.

Hard landscaping
The term ‘hard landscaping’ is rather misleading.
What it actually refers to is not just hard surfaces
such as walls, patios and paving, but also gravel
paths, water features, fences and other timber
structures – in fact, everything except the
planting. Some gardens get by without hard
landscaping of any sort, and green initiatives of
various kinds are encouraging us to manage with
less of it. But there is no doubt that hard
landscaping has practical advantages for year-
round use as well as giving a garden shape and
structure, and establishing boundaries for
screening and security.
Purpose and uses

Hard landscaping is usually the most expensive part of making

a new garden, so think carefully about your choice of materials
before you embark on costly practicalities. Built features that
work well in relation to the surroundings of your plot, as well
as complementing the house, will suit your garden best.

Patios
The patio is a place to sit and unwind, and to entertain. It is where
house meets garden and, if it’s properly thought out and built – using
sympathetic materials and appropriate planting – it will provide a
strong link between the two.
When planning a patio, make sure it will be big enough to feel
relaxed and comfortable. The cramped double row of slabs favoured
by some house-builders is all but useless. You need room to move
about as well as to sit, and some space for planting, in containers or in
beds, with flowers spilling freely over the patio edges. Choose paving
that suits the house, and consider how it will look and behave in the
rain. Grey paving often looks depressing when wet, and smooth slabs
can get very slippery. Think about drainage – always away from the
house, please. Slabs in a mixture of sizes look less utilitarian (see
here), and you may like to leave some of the joints unmortared so
small plants can soften the effect.
New hard landscaping looks a bit stark to begin with, but a season’s growth and weathering
will give everything the comfortable, established look you are after.

Decking
Decking has become hugely popular in recent years, but it is
sometimes seen as the bête noire of contemporary garden design.
True, it can look incongruous in the wrong place, but properly built
decking offers a neat solution to many a design conundrum. It can be
the answer to tricky problems with levels, and can be made to fit even
the most awkward of shapes. It is ideal for providing a smooth
transition from house to garden (see here). Being lighter than paving,
decking is especially useful where load-bearing is an issue, such as in
roof gardens. Perhaps because of its nautical associations, decking
and water are natural partners, so it lends itself to water features and
swimming pool surrounds. On the down side, decking is not very
practical in shade, tending to become slippery when wet, and it’s slow
to dry out. You also need to think about the space underneath it, which
can become a wasteland for rubbish and vermin.
Decking and water – good companions, here looking rustic and artless as an alternative to the
more usual chic and contemporary.

Dining space
The patio is ideal for relaxed meals and barbecues with family and friends, so
you need the right garden furniture. Obviously garden tables and chairs come in
all shapes and sizes, but one thing they have in common is that they all take up
more space than you think. You need room to push the chairs back, and for
people to walk and stand about as well as to sit down. As a rough guide, you’ll
need a paved area of about 2.5 × 1.5m (8 × 5ft) to comfortably accommodate a
table and chairs for two people, 3.5 × 3.5m (12 × 12ft) for a round table seating
six, and 4.5 × 3.5m (15 × 12ft) for an oblong table to seat eight.

Don’t forget

Check the origin of the timber for your deck, and make sure that it
comes from a sustainable source (see here).

Paths
Well-maintained grass paths look lovely, and grass is fine for paths
that aren’t used very often, but it won’t stand up to a lot of wear. In wet
weather it quickly turns into a mudslide, especially on a slope. A hard-
landscaped path may take time and trouble, but it will be more
practical.
 You’ll probably have at least one main access route in the garden
where you need a ‘serious’ path – solid, durable and probably made
with mortared slabs, bricks or setts, properly laid on a firm foundation
(see here). But hard paths like this are too severe and formal for many
situations, and it can be quite a task to remove one if ever you want to
change the layout. Often less ambitious paths will do nicely.

Brick paths
Brick paths always look appealing, especially in informal gardens.
There are any number of laying patterns to choose from – herringbone
and basket-weave are two popular ones. Be sure to use frost-proof
bricks. A mixture of slabs and bricks, or other contrasting materials
like tiles, setts or slate, also works well; you can devise your own
pattern. Paths using bricks can either be laid on a mortar base or in a
more makeshift fashion on a bed of dry sand (though it’s a good idea
to have a mortared edging to prevent the bricks from creeping
sideways). In unmortared paths you can grow little plants in the
cracks, which looks charming, but the downside is you’ll get plants you
don’t want, as well as those you do. Even if you put a geotextile
membrane underneath, seeds of annual weeds will still find a home if
the joints are not mortared.

Less formal paths

There are many ways to make more informal paths. Laying slabs as
stepping-stones is quick and easy. Set them into a bed of shingle or
chippings, or simply into the soil for a path that crosses a flower
border. Slabs as stepping-stones across grass are another option: lay
them on a bed of sand or mortar to keep them stable, and recess
them slightly below the level of the grass so the mower can pass over
them.
Slate chippings make an easy-to-lay informal path and are an effective foil for architectural
plants, giving a rural but not an old-fashioned feel to this contemporary London garden.
Brickwork patterns such as herringbone (top left) or basketweave (bottom right) are ideal for
straight paths. Random-laid cobbles (top right) will fit any shape, while slabs in shingle
(bottom left) or grass (centre) suit straight lines and curves.

Paths of loose aggregates such as pea-shingle, or chippings of

limestone or slate, are easy to make, and ideal for irregular or informal
shapes (see here). Chipped bark makes a good surface for a
woodland-style path, but it will need topping up at intervals. It’s best to
edge this type of path with timber boards, bricks or a purpose-made
edging such as twist-topped tiles, to stop the surfacing material from
escaping at the edges. Loose aggregates, especially smooth, slippery
pea-shingle, aren’t suitable for slopes, although you can encourage
them to stay put by making a series of shallow steps – using timber to
contain the material.
Shingle and railway sleepers are an easy and well-tried solution where informal steps are
needed. Planting will soon billow over the edges to give a softer effect.

Steps
As with paths, there may be places where you need ‘serious’ steps
and these should be solidly built, probably by a professional. Choose
your materials with safety as well as appearance in mind, using non-
slippery slabs or bricks for the treads and making all the steps the
same height and width. A handrail may be worth considering, too. The
odd step or two that may be needed along a path should be designed
with a prominent edge so that you don’t come upon it unawares.
You can be a bit more relaxed about decorative or casual steps,
which can be built from logs, boards or railway sleepers, firmly fixed
by means of sturdy pegs driven into the ground. The treads are then
backfilled with earth or hard core and topped with a thin layer of
aggregate such as stone chippings. Safety will still be important, so
the steps should be of even height and not slippery when wet. Small-
mesh galvanized wire netting can be stapled on to timber treads for
grip.
 Depending on what space is available, steps can either be set into a
retaining wall or jut out from it, or they can be half and half. They can
be parallel to the wall or at right-angles. And they don’t have to be
rectangular. Semicircular brick steps, if there is enough space, look
particularly attractive.
If possible, avoid steep steps – like those that are normally used on
an indoor staircase – anywhere in the garden. In an outdoor setting
these feel cramped and too much like hard work. Garden steps feel
more leisurely if they have deep treads of approximately 40–50cm
(16–20in) and low risers of about 10–15cm (4–6in).

Fences
With a little imagination, you can design and even build your own
unique, bespoke fence, and garden boundaries might be a whole lot
more interesting if more people did that. But if you have a new plot
you will probably have other priorities and, at least in the short term,
will want a standard, off-the-peg fence that can be put up quickly and
without fuss.
A simple fence of posts and rails serves to mark a boundary, but
most people want a fence to do other things besides, such as
providing privacy and keeping the dog in. Below are some of the most
popular fencing options.

Panel fencing
Posts with prefabricated softwood panels between them make up this
inexpensive type of fencing, which can be used to create a boundary
of any height up to 1.8m (6ft). It is quick and easy to erect but not very
durable, especially on windy sites. The panel infill – usually of larch,
which is either woven or in overlapping strips – is very thin. Panel
fencing doesn’t suit steeply sloping sites because the panels must be
horizontal, so erecting them on a slope leaves not only a stepped
profile but also awkward triangular gaps, which will probably need to
be filled, between the surface of the ground and the bottom of each
panel.
 Trellis panels are more attractive than solid ones, especially when
clothed with climbing plants. Their open structure casts less shade,
and filters the wind without causing turbulence, but it also means that
they don’t provide complete privacy. A happy compromise that can
look really attractive, as long as it is well finished, is to use solid
panels up to a certain height with trellis along the top. Ready-made
trellis is available in different patterns and densities, and the tops of
the panels can be concave, convex or wavy for a more decorative,
undulating fence line. (See also here.)

A picket fence can be custom-made from salvaged driftwood (top left) or built more
conventionally (top right). Woven hardwood strips (centre) or willow wattles (bottom right) are
better for screening, as is trellis (bottom left) when covered with climbers.

Close-boarded fencing
This is a stouter and more costly type of fence. It is built on site by
erecting concrete or timber posts at regular intervals, with two or more
sets of horizontal wooden rails (called arris rails) between them, and
then fixing overlapping feather-edged boards vertically to the rails. To
make the fence more weatherproof, it is a good idea to protect the
end-grain of the timber by fitting a narrow timber coping along the top.

Openwork fences
Post-and-rail and post-and-wire fencing mark a boundary but don’t
function as an effective barrier for children or pets, nor do they give
any screening. They are fairly cheap to erect, though, and can be
useful for large rural gardens where you want to keep a view open and
aren’t concerned about privacy. Chain-link fencing is an efficient if not
very attractive means of keeping dogs, livestock and children in (or
out!). Flexible galvanized or plastic-coated wire netting is another
option, fixed to stout posts, with straining wires to keep it in place.

Traditionally crafted fencing

Traditional chestnut paling consists of lengths of split chestnut strung
together with taut twisted wire. It is easy to erect and rustic-looking.
Equally traditional, and often associated with cottage gardens, is
picket fencing, which can be very attractive to look at but is quite fiddly
to build. It is usually made of softwood, either treated or painted; white
is the classic cottage colour, but it will need regular maintenance to
keep it looking smart. Wattle hurdles, once used for sheepfolds, are
the product of another old country craft and are popular in cottage-
style gardens. The panels are made of woven willow or split hazel
rods. Hurdles look charming and rustic but do not last many years. To
make them more durable, paint them every year with a mixture of
linseed oil and turpentine, and check regularly to make sure the posts
are rigid. You should do this because with age the panels become
brittle and don’t flex with the wind.
Railings and estate fencing are a different kind of traditional, but
always have a certain cachet, in town or country. If you inherit this
style of fence you will probably want to look after it as an asset to your
property; it looks timeless and classy if kept smartly painted. Having
iron fencing made to measure, from scratch, will be expensive, but it
may be exactly what is needed to complement the garden and house,
in which case it’s money well spent – and it should last a lifetime.

A hand-crafted ironwork gate makes a pretty but practical feature for a traditional garden. You
may be able to design one yourself and find a local blacksmith to make it.

Gates
A garden gate can be anything from a practical, heavy-duty barrier
whose sole function is to keep out intruders, to a highly personalized
and decorative design statement, in either wood or metal. A gate is a
natural focal point, and it’s well worth a little extra trouble and expense
to have one that looks welcoming and inviting, as well as
complementing the style of your house and garden. If you have a gate
made to your own design, whether it is solid or a picket style, always
ensure that it is sufficiently well braced for its structure to hold its
weight when hung in position. Traditional five-bar gates are usually
designed with strong diagonal struts for just that reason.
 Width of gateways
Make quite sure that gateways are wide enough for their intended use. For car
access you need at least 2.4m (8ft) clearance between the gateposts, but even
that will not accommodate a large delivery van.
The bare minimum for a pedestrian gate is about 60cm (2ft), but this is
narrower than a standard interior door, and for a practical access gate you
should allow 1–1.2m (3–4ft), which gives a bit more elbow room as well as
access for a wheelbarrow, lawnmower, pram, wheelchair or bicycle.

Arches, arbours and pergolas

These significant garden features are usually built of timber or metal
and support climbing plants. An arbour is a small shelter for a seat;
pergolas were originally walkways, but nowadays the term is also
often used of a structure that shades an eating area (see also here).
All need to be strongly constructed to withstand a fair amount of
weight: a mature climbing rose or a wisteria in full flower can be pretty
hefty. High winds are another hazard to factor in. Some cheaper,
ready-made arches, arbours and pergolas are flimsy, while at the top
end of the market prices can be astronomical. For something durable
and cost-effective, it is often better to have it made by a local
craftsman – or make it yourself (see here). Use pressure-treated
timber, and be sure the posts are securely concreted into the ground
and that load-bearing components are up to the job.
Make sure even a short-lived rustic pergola is designed and built to be sturdy enough to take
the weight of vigorous climbers, such as this ‘American Pillar’ rose and accompanying
honeysuckle.

Gazebos, sheds and summerhouses

A roofed garden building can be as simple or as posh as you like, and
it’s a great way of making more living space, and of extending the
house into the garden. Whether yours is a tiny potting shed, a
storybook tree-house retreat, a summerhouse or gazebo, or a fully
fitted home office, remember that its bulk is sure to make it a focal
point whether you like it or not. So either you must make it look
devastatingly good or you must try to disguise it. You can hide a
structure with planting, or lessen its impact by positioning it cleverly or
painting it black to make it less obvious.
Clematis montana var. wilsonii – charming cover for a rustic archway.

The perfect summerhouse – well sited, attractive and utterly inviting.

As with arbours and arches, an off-the-peg building is your least

expensive option, but the quality and appearance may not be all you
would wish for. If your budget permits, it may be worth spending a bit
more and finding a local carpenter who could make you a bespoke
building of better quality. Alternatively, look for a second-hand
structure that you can renovate. Architectural salvage companies and
the local paper are good hunting grounds, or you may find just the
right thing online. Before you buy, do check whether planning
permission is necessary.
Positioning a large structure in an existing garden can be
problematic. There needs to be enough working space to build a solid
base for it, and it should be sited away from trees to prevent damage
to their roots. Even the most attractive building may not look good
stuck right in the middle of the garden, so be sure to give your
structure a setting. Make it an attractive feature that is an integral part
of the garden and it will be worth every penny.
 Siting a greenhouse
Choosing the right spot for a greenhouse isn’t easy, but you’ll be glad you took
the trouble to find that spot before you put it up, rather than a couple of seasons
later. Like other garden buildings, greenhouses seem to draw attention to
themselves, and having one as a main focal point of your garden isn’t
necessarily what you want, unless you go for one of the more decorative
models – but they don’t come cheap. There’s shelter to consider, too: you may
avoid a bill for gale damage if you choose a spot out of the wind. Then there are
the plants to think about; they won’t want to fry all day in the heat of summer,
but deep shade isn’t what they need in winter. The site should be convenient for
you, too, with hard paths to keep feet dry. A greenhouse that’s a bother to trek
to in winter is likely to be neglected. It’s worth having water and electricity
available. Using a paraffin stove may seem a handy idea until you find yourself
going out in your pyjamas to light it at 2am.
A south-east facing position, where the greenhouse will catch the sun in the
morning but not after midday, is often a good idea. The air inside will warm up
quickly but gently as the sun strengthens, staying warm after it has gone, but
the plants won’t sizzle in the afternoon heat. Deciduous trees to the south of the
greenhouse also work well, letting in plenty of light during the winter, when the
plants need as much sun as they can get. The trees come into leaf just when
the greenhouse is beginning to gasp a bit in the midday sunshine, and provide
welcome shade through the warmest months. But don’t let the trees overhang
the glass or it will get covered in algae.
Don’t forget

When siting a greenhouse or garden structure, remember that you

will need access all round the outside, for regular maintenance,
repairs and glass cleaning.
Hard landscaping materials

You only need to look at a few of the big garden shows, such
as the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, to appreciate the
bewildering range of hard landscaping materials now
available. Even the choice of basics – bricks, paving,
aggregates and timber – isn’t straightforward. Arm yourself
with as much background information as you can muster, and
you’ll have a much better idea of what to look for.

Bricks
There’s no substitute for sympathetic landscaping brickwork to make a
house and garden look as if they belong to each other. The ideal is to
achieve a good match between the bricks used for each. But many
ordinary clay bricks are not suitable for landscaping work because
they absorb too much moisture when in constant contact with damp
soil. When they become saturated, moss and algae can build up on
the surface, and – worse still – frosty weather can make the bricks
crumble. So before you buy bricks for paving, steps, edging or
retaining walls, make sure they are frost-resistant. Special
landscaping bricks are now available that are designed to blend with
old brickwork, and some companies make clay bricks with a low
enough absorbency for landscape use. So-called engineering bricks
are the least absorbent of all; many of them are too utilitarian-looking
for ornamental use, but some of the older ones can be quite attractive.
A variety of hard landscaping materials are at work here, but they have been chosen and put
together successfully to make a harmonious whole.

Blocks
Concrete blocks, being much larger than bricks, are quicker and
cheaper to build with, but are not objects of beauty and can really only
be used where they won’t be seen. They’re fine for freestanding or
retaining walls if the surface is going to be rendered, tiled or clad with
a surface layer of stone or timber. You can also use them for building
formal water features where they will be covered by a pond liner. The
lightweight blocks used in house building may seem like an easy
option, but they are for interior use and aren’t really weatherproof or
strong enough for most exterior hard landscaping jobs.
Brickwork is very adaptable in a garden – though it can be expensive.

Sand
You need different sands for different jobs. Building sand (or soft sand)
is the cheap and cheerful orange stuff that you see lying around on
building sites. It has fine particles and usually contains a small amount
of clay, which makes it tend to stick together. It also stains hands,
clothes and paving. It is used mainly for mortar where the colour is
unimportant, and also for lining pond holes before the underlay and
liner go in. Sharp sand (or grit sand) has larger particles and is used
mainly as a bedding material for paving slabs. Silver sand is free-
running and very pale, being almost pure silica. It is the best option for
children’s sandpits, and to fill the gaps between block paving. It’s also
useful, when planning, for marking out shapes on the ground by
pouring it from a plastic bottle.
 Keeping it local
Many of the most attractive buildings you see around – especially those that are
more than a century or so old – will have been constructed largely from local
materials. Think of Cotswold villages, with their golden-stone cottages and dry-
stone walls, or the slate roofs of Wales, or the traditional flintwork cottages and
churches to be found in Britain’s chalk downlands. Garden walls and paths that
make use of local materials like these have a harmonious, settled look, echoing
the buildings around and blending with the soil colour in a way that ‘alien’
materials never quite manage. So before you choose hard landscaping
materials, look carefully at the buildings you can see from your garden – start
with your own house – and take your cue from their colours, textures and styles.
A bit of ‘local colour’ of this kind will make all the difference to the look and feel
of the end product – and you can rest safe in the knowledge that the materials
are unlikely to have been shipped halfway round the world before they get to
you.

UK sizes
Sometimes you can avoid the need to cut materials by planning paths, steps
and walls according to standard UK sizes:
Standard block size:
440 × 215 × 90 mm
Standard brick size:
215 × 102.5 × 65 mm
Standard block paving:
200 × 100 × 60 mm

Bear in mind when ordering materials that metric measurements are always
used, rather than imperial, and dimensions are given in millimetres rather than
centimetres.

Concrete
This is a mixture of cement with sand and coarse aggregate (the last
two can be bought already mixed, as all-in aggregate or ‘ballast’).
Adding water activates the cement to produce a compound that
hardens quite quickly, strengthening as it dries over a period of days
or weeks to form strong foundations and footings. The proportions of
the ingredients vary according to what the concrete is to be used for,
but for a general-purpose mix for small garden jobs use 5 or 6 parts
premixed ballast to 1 part cement. Laying large amounts of concrete is
best left to the professionals, but for jobs such as setting fence posts
or building a foundation for a small brickwork project (see here), it isn’t
difficult to do it yourself, once you get the hang of achieving the right
consistency, mixing the right quantity and getting the stuff into the right
place before it sets.

Classic hard landscaping gives definition to this garden and, though attractive in its own right,
doesn’t dominate the planting. The subtle patterns in the paving, and the strong lines of the
seat and adjacent trellis, will help give the garden all-important structure in winter.

Concrete slabs
The easiest and cheapest kind of paving slabs are made from
concrete. Many different products are available, ranging from the most
basic square concrete slabs to paving that has been carefully moulded
or tooled to look like real stone, available in a range of sizes to
resemble random-cut flagstones. For circular or octagonal paved
areas, or ones that include motifs or mosaics, you can buy special kits
that contain all the right bits, so you don’t have to cut awkward
shapes. Thoughtful planning will also minimize the unpleasant job of
cutting slabs. For example, make the width of a path an exact multiple
of the width of the slabs you are using, if possible. (See here, Paving
layouts.)

Natural stone paving

Many kinds of local stone have traditionally been used very
successfully for garden paving, including sandstone, limestone, slate,
marble and granite. Stone is still hard to beat as a classic natural
material, but it is expensive to buy, as well as to cut and lay, and there
are now growing worries about its environmental sustainability. Indian
sandstone, and many other kinds of natural stone from overseas,
have become widely available in recent years. They are a less costly
alternative to locally quarried stone, but cheaper versions can be thin
and uneven, needing extra careful cutting and laying. Some people
prefer to avoid foreign-sourced stone on environmental or ethical
grounds. Good reclaimed stone paving is often a successful (and
greener) solution, and will add instant maturity to your garden.

Reconstituted stone
Some companies specialize in making paving and other modular
materials, as well as balustrading, fountains, planters and other
garden ornaments, from a carefully blended mix of stone dust and
cement. The result just about passes for stone but is less expensive
than the real thing.
Stone, clay or concrete setts are very versatile. Choose a laying pattern that echoes the lines
of the garden.

Block paving and setts

Block paving has certainly improved since those uniform municipal-
looking concrete blocks began to spread across driveways and car
parks in the 1970s and 80s. Small-unit paving of this type, made from
either concrete or clay, is available in different sizes and colours, with
a worn or weathered finish to suggest old-fashioned cobbles. Properly
laid, it can complement a house and garden well, and is a big visual
improvement on tarmac or concrete for front gardens – but ‘properly
laid’ is the key. It must have a good, firm sub-base, especially if it is
used by vehicles. Choose the material with care, and seriously
consider getting it laid professionally.
Paving slabs needn’t be boring. They can be combined with other materials, including grass,
to make an attractive and unusual layout. The grass grid and square beds here will also help
absorb rainwater and minimize run-off (see here).

Setts are small square units made from stone, clay or concrete,
typically up to 100 × 100mm (4 × 4in) in size. They look good
alongside slabs of a similar colour, and are ideal for durable, cottage-
style paths. Some are available in larger square units with false joints,
making them much quicker to lay. When pointed in, the real and the
false joints look just the same.

Gravel and chippings

Shingle – often called pea shingle – consists of small, smooth stones
extracted from river or sea deposits. It is usually available in two
grades: up to 10mm (½in) or 20mm (¾in). It’s clean and inexpensive,
but the smoothness of the stone does mean that shingle moves
around quite easily underfoot or beneath car wheels. Stone chippings,
such as small pieces of quarried natural limestone, tend to be more
angular and lock together to give a more stable surface. They come in
many colours and rock types. Most often on sale are limestone,
granite or slate, but with a little patience you can source almost any
kind of rock you like. There are also various man-made granular
materials, ranging from chopped-up, recycled tyres to coloured glass.
Show gardens over the years have used some quite outlandish path
surfaces, including one memorable path made out of rusty washers.
Clearly the sky’s the limit, but for a real garden you have to bear in
mind that some of these ideas are more practical than others.

What lies beneath

Paving and driveways need a compacted sub-base to spread the load and
prevent heavy weights from making hollows in the surface layer. For this you
usually use either well-compacted hard core (waste broken bricks, concrete and
so on) or a relatively cheap, coarse, crushed stone product that builders’
merchants will deliver. This goes under different names but is often called
‘scalpings’. It’s a mixture of lumps (up to about 40mm/1½in in size) and dust,
the idea being that the dust settles between the lumps to give a firm, stable
base. The material is compacted with a ‘whacker plate’ or vibrating plate
compactor. As a guide, a tonne of scalpings will cover about 5sq m (50sq ft)
with a layer that is 100mm (4in) thick when compacted.
 Gravel and other loose surfaces: the pros and cons
ADVANTAGES
Relatively cheap
Easy to lay
Drains well if properly laid
Convenient for irregular shapes
Easier to remove than concrete or paving
Can incorporate some planting

DISADVANTAGES
Needs edging
Weeds will find their way in
May need raking to keep it smart
Easily picked up on shoes

Timber
Wood is an ideal material for many garden structures, being versatile
enough for anything from a railway sleeper to a feather-light batten. It
is natural, relatively inexpensive, light, and easy to cut and shape. It is
reasonably long-lasting, especially if given a little care to protect it
from the worst effects of the weather. The woods from different trees
vary hugely in their durability, so it’s important to choose the right
wood and to look after it, if it is to withstand rain and fend off the ever-
present threat of fungal attack.
‘Hardwood’ generally means timber from broadleaved trees such as
oak, ash or chestnut, while ‘softwood’ comes from conifers such as
pine and larch. Hardwood timber normally lasts longer, but it’s more
expensive and more difficult to work with. Softwood is often sold
pressure-treated, which means it is impregnated with chemicals to
make it last longer. In these days of vanishing rainforests, it’s vital to
make sure that all the timber you buy comes from environmentally
responsible sources (see here).
Posts
For most purposes – such as fences, trellis, light gates, pergolas and
arches – standard fence posts in pressure-treated softwood will be
fine for the uprights, which should be securely concreted into the
ground (see here). Choose posts measuring either 100 × 100mm (4 ×
4in) or 75 × 75mm (3 × 3in) in section, weighing up the strength you
need against the hefty appearance (and higher cost) of heavier posts.
A traditional option, if you prefer to avoid chemically treated timber,
is to use hardwood posts such as oak. However, if you want to build a
large oak structure such as a pergola or arch it’s wise to find a
craftsman with traditional construction skills, who will make a structure
that flexes, as green oak tends to move and twist as it matures.

A perfect blend of rural and stylish. A stout, traditional post-and-rail fence of split chestnut is
brought to life by a planting of white foxgloves, with cosmos in between to flower later.

Railway sleepers
Timber doesn’t come any sturdier than this. Sleepers are a quick yet
durable fix for certain landscaping tasks, though you will need help to
lay them as they are very heavy and difficult to cut. You can either
stand them side by side, on end (sunk securely into the ground), or lay
them horizontally, to make terraces and raised beds. Secure them
together by drilling vertical holes to take steel reinforcing rods, which,
in the case of horizontally stacked sleepers, can then be driven into
the ground. Sleepers also make a good, stout edging, especially for
steps with treads surfaced with chipped bark or gravel (see here).

Timber sleepers set across a path give substance and emphasize width.

Ask your supplier whether their sleepers are new or recycled, where
they have come from and whether or not they have been treated.
Sleepers treated with recently outlawed preservatives such as old-
style creosote should no longer be sold, and some kinds of
preservative can ooze messily in hot weather. Untreated sleepers can
be sourced, and you may prefer to specify these, particularly if you
garden organically.

Rustic poles
Ever popular rustic poles (usually larch) are cheap and very easy to
work with, and they can be simply and quickly lashed or nailed
together to make arches, arbours and screens. The downside is that
they are not at all durable, losing their bark and rotting at the base
within only a few years.
If your garden is large enough to grow hazel or willow, you can have
fun building short-lived structures such as rustic arches and obelisks
from your own highly renewable coppice. Cut the trees almost to the
ground, and within four or five years they will have produced a crop of
usable, straight poles – all for free. The process will continue almost
indefinitely, and you can use the twiggy growth as supports for rows of
peas in your vegetable patch or for tall herbaceous plants in your
borders, so they don’t flop over.

Board for outdoor use

Ordinary composite boards such as plywood, particleboard or MDF
are not intended for outdoor work, and even so-called ‘marine ply’ can
buckle and split if not protected.

Trellis panels
Ready-made trellis panels from garden centres or builders’ merchants
come in a range of sizes up to 1.8m (6ft) high and wide, usually with a
choice of square or diamond-shaped screen patterns. They tend to be
rather thin and flimsy, but are handy for making a quick screen and will
last longer if treated with preservative or painted. Well-made, more
substantial and attractive trellis is available to order, at a price, from
specialist companies. You may consider having it made locally or,
alternatively, making it yourself using inexpensive battens.
 Environmentally responsible timber
Not so many years ago, strong and durable tropical hardwoods such as teak
and mahogany were used with abandon for outdoor furniture, garden structures
such as decking, and for just about anything else that needed to last a long
time. But now, more people are becoming concerned about where their timber
comes from and want to be reassured that their choice of pergola isn’t helping
to wreck the world’s rainforests as well as the lives of the indigenous peoples
who live there. Many garden products are now labelled as FSC (Forest
Stewardship Council) certified. The FSC is an international body promoting
sustainable management of forests. Their certification scheme means that we
can all identify timber that meets certain internationally recognized
environmental standards – so look out for the labels when you next shop for
timber products.

Living willow is a fun material to work with, as well as being environmentally sound. It can be
used to make screens and arches or, as here, a leafy rustic arbour that won’t be quite like
anyone else’s.
Hands on: Paving

Laying paving isn’t rocket science, and with patience and a bit
of careful planning the job should go smoothly and leave you
with a patio or path to be proud of. The instructions here are
for a basic paving job, but you can customize your paving with
a contrasting edging or by replacing a few of the slabs with
gravel, slate chippings or a different kind of hard surface such
as bricks or granite setts. Small planted beds are another
option. Browse through paving manufacturers’ catalogues or
look at websites for inspiration and ideas.

Once you’ve got the hang of laying standard paving, you can use your new-found skill to
create custom-made paved areas that will set your garden apart from the rest. But do
remember that the simplest schemes are often the most effective.
Letting plants colonize paving cracks creates a softer effect, but you have to keep on top of
the weeds.

Don’t forget

Large paving slabs and bags of aggregate are very heavy and you
could all too easily damage your back – even while unloading them
from the boot of your car. Ask a helper to assist with lifting materials,
and remember to let your knees rather than your back take the
strain when lifting.
 Paving layouts
Uniform square slabs are straightforward to lay, and it’s easy to work out how
many you’ll need, but this style of paving can look like a kitchen floor, only
outside. Layouts using slabs of different sizes look better, suggesting traditional
flagstones. Designing a bespoke layout before you start means that you can
order exactly the right number of slabs of the various sizes and minimize any
cutting of slabs. The snag is that it can take ages to work out a ‘random’ layout
that will exactly fit your space, particularly if you are using a lot of different sizes.
Computer-aided design (CAD) is a great way to tackle this task and works like
magic. You can find CAD services online that, for a fee, will generate custom-
made laying patterns. For free help, contact paving manufacturers. Some
publish plans for specific patio dimensions using their own products. If you’d
rather do it yourself, get some squared paper and a pencil (and a good eraser!),
draw everything to scale (1:50 or 1:100 work best) and prepare for a long
session of fiddling around in order to get it right. If you colour-code each size of
slab when you’ve finished, it will be easier to count up how many of each size
you need to order. Don’t forget to allow for 10mm-wide mortar joints.

Drainage
Hard surfaces can’t soak up rain like a lawn or a planted bed, so they need a
slight slope to help shed water. Puddles and lingering dampness encourage
slimy algae. Icy weather makes wet paving even more dangerous and can also
make mortar joints crumble. As a rule of thumb, aim for a slope of between 1 in
50 and 1 in 100 – that’s a fall of 1–2cm (½–¾in) in every metre (40in) of length.
Rough surfaces such as riven paving should be at the steeper end of the scale,
while smooth materials can have a shallower slope. Make sure the slope falls
away from buildings and consider what is going to happen to the water after it
runs off. For normal paths and small paved areas, drainage into an adjacent
border will probably be fine – especially if your soil is light and drains well. For
larger hard areas, or on heavier soils, you may need to plan for drainage into a
purpose-built soakaway. Don’t let surface water drain away into sewers, as this
increases the risk of flooding in wet weather (see here).
HOW TO lay paving

Use pegs and string to mark out the area to be paved, then dig out the soil to a depth of about
20cm (8in) below the intended surface level. Don’t disturb the soil below that. If the paving
butts right up to the wall of the house, the finished surface should be at least 15cm (6in) below
the existing damp-proof course and sloping slightly away from the house (see here).

When the shape is right, knock some levelling pegs into the ground, using a plank and a spirit
level to check that they are at the right height – about 10cm (4in) below your intended surface
level (the depth of the slab plus a mortar bed of 50–60mm (2–2½in). Then spread an even
layer of scalpings across the area and use a powered compactor plate (available to hire) to
firm it level with the pegs.
If you have made a paving layout plan (see here) now’s the time to test it out. (It takes serious
determination to put mistakes right once the mortar has set.) So, lay out the slabs ‘dry’, in
your chosen pattern, to check the fit and the look. Aim for a gap of 10mm (½in) between
slabs. Make sure the edges align, slightly adjusting the width of the joints between slabs, if
necessary, to achieve this.

Mix the mortar (see here). A small barrow-load at a time should be about the right quantity to
mix so you can use it up before it sets. Make the mix quite sloppy. Lay slabs a few at a time,
setting them to one side while you spread the mortar. The mortar layer should be about 50–
60mm (2–2½in) deep. Use a trowel to make a ridged surface, which will help with levelling the
slabs.
Carefully lift the first paving slab into position. Rest it on the mortar bed and gently tap it level
with the handle of a hammer. Check with a spirit level to make sure you’ve kept an even, very
slight slope away from the house wall. Repeat with the other slabs. Don’t walk on the slabs for
at least 24 hours so the mortar can set properly. Over-eagerness can result in wobbly paving.

Slightly dampen the pointing mix (see here) and fill the joints, pushing it in with a gloved hand
and leaving no gaps or cracks. Finish the joints with a rounded stick or any similar tool that
will give a neat, smooth finish. Sweep up any surplus mixture promptly so it doesn’t stain the
paving. The pointing mix will gradually absorb water from the ground and from rainfall, and will
then set hard.
Hands on: Brickwork

Bricklaying may look straightforward, but in reality it’s a

complex skill that takes a long time to learn. For an amateur
it’s much slower and trickier than you might think, and most
jobs involving brickwork or blockwork are probably best left to
a professional. All the same, there will be keen DIY
enthusiasts who want to have a go, and it can be truly
satisfying to know you’ve completed the task yourself – not to
mention cheaper.

Before embarking on brickwork, there are quite a few decisions to be

made. First you have to choose the right kind of bricks and think about
the colour of the mortar and how much to make at once. Then you
need to select the most suitable brickwork bond, pointing style and
coping. Also ensure you take appropriate reinforcing and damp-
proofing measures so that the finished wall will be sound, stable and
safe. All this will be second nature to an experienced bricklayer, but a
challenge for the novice.

Make it simple
Start with a small project, such as a low wall or a brick edging for a
path. The instructions opposite are for a single thickness of bricks
(‘half a brick thick’), in the basic ‘stretcher bond’ pattern, with bricks
simply laid end to end. This is the simplest kind of wall, but suitable
only for walls up to about 60cm (24in) tall, and not for a load-bearing
or retaining wall. For a taller or more robust wall, you will need a
double layer of bricks (‘one brick thick’), using a stronger brickwork
bond.
 Mortar and concrete mixes
You can buy ready-blended mortar mix, which is useful for small jobs, but
mixing your own isn’t difficult and you can then make a mix tailored to a
particular job.
For brickwork, use a moist but not watery mix of 6:1:1 builders’ sand : cement
: lime. (You can use a mortar plasticizer instead of the lime.)

For bedding mortar for laying paving slabs, use quite a sloppy mix of 4:2:1
sharp sand : builders’ sand : cement.
For pointing paving joints, use a dry mix of 3:1 builders’ sand : cement.
For most concrete, use a mix of 6:1 ballast : cement.

Don’t forget

When you are excavating to build foundations for a wall, keep the
topsoil you remove in a separate pile from the subsoil and replace it
on the surface when the digging and the levelling are complete.

Brickwork and planting have a natural affinity, especially if mellow old bricks are used – and
these tulips are the perfect complement.
 Copings
The top of a retaining wall or freestanding garden wall is usually finished off with
a coping or cap to help prevent water getting into the top of the wall. Copings
can incorporate a damp-proof course and they usually have an overhang to
keep heavy rain off the sides of the wall, too.
You can buy purpose-made coping stones of various kinds, or why not try
designing your own scheme using sloping tiles or slates (builders call these
creasings). Look out for copings and creasings on old, traditional walls for
inspiration – they often add a nice touch of individual decorative detail.
A simple and traditional capping for a wall that is one brick thick consists of a
row of bricks set on edge. This works well with retaining walls, especially ones
at ‘perching height’, for sitting on. A wall like this should be 55–60cm (22–24in)
high, probably amounting to six courses plus a capping of bricks on edge.
A timber coping (below) won’t be as durable as a brick one, but it can look
attractive, is easy to fit and will be considerably less chilly to sit on than stone or
brick.
HOW TO lay bricks

Mark out a trench at least three times the width you want the finished wall to be, and dig out
the soil to a depth of about 30cm (12in), keeping the topsoil separate. The base of the trench
must be firm, so if the soil is soft, dig out some more and replace it with a layer of compacted
hardcore or scalpings.

Hammer some wooden pegs into the base of the trench, with their tops where you want the
bottom of the wall to be. Check with a spirit level that the pegs are all at the same height.
Then pour in concrete (mixed using 6:1 ballast : cement) up to the tops of the pegs and leave
for several days to set.
Mix up some bricklaying mortar and spread a 10mm (½in) layer along the concrete to the
required width. Lay the first brick, and use a spirit level to check for correct level and
alignment. Then ‘butter’ the end of the second brick with mortar and butt it up to the first. As
you lay, keep checking that each brick is horizontal and level. If a brick is too high, tap it gently
with the trowel handle to level it. If it is too low, put more mortar underneath, then check again
with the spirit level.

Once the first course is laid, begin to build up the ends or corners, checking that each course
is level and the sides are aligned. To stagger the joints correctly, start at one end of the
second course with a brick set at right angles if you have a corner, or cut in half if your wall is
straight. Fill in the courses between the corners or ends, checking that all is level and straight.
A string line will make this easier. Keep mortar joints a constant width to ensure everything
fits. Finally, smooth the joints and clean any mortar residue off the sides.
Hands on: Posts and panel fencing

On reasonably level ground a panel fence is usually the

easiest kind to put up. The same method can be used to erect
trellis panels for screening, or it can be adapted for other types
of fencing, or even for making a wooden compost bin.
Concentrate on keeping the uprights vertical and on getting
everything else straight, and you won’t go far wrong.

Whatever kind of fencing you decide on, it will need posts, and so will
a pergola, a deck and many another kind of garden structure. There’s
no great mystery to putting up posts, and it’s a useful technique to
learn and have under your belt. Once you’ve got the hang of it you’ll
be able to save a fortune in bills from fencing contractors. You’ll also
be half-way to building your own custom-made garden structures.
The step-by-step guidance opposite applies to timber posts (see
also here). You can also buy concrete ones that have a groove to fit
the panel into. This might sound easier but, while they last almost
indefinitely, concrete posts are heavy and awkward to handle, they
cost more and they don’t do a great deal for the look of your garden.

Don’t forget

Both ends of the fence need posts, so you will need to add one
more post to the number of panels you plan to buy.
It’s easy to fit trellis to the top of a fence (see here), and it will improve screening without
giving you that shut-in feeling or cutting out too much light.

Panels with curved tops look stylish. They can be used with success to end a run of trellis so
that it doesn’t come to an abrupt stop. Wooden finials give a neat finish.
 Timber preservatives and colours
Different timbers vary greatly in durability. Generally speaking, you don’t need to
treat hardwoods with any preservatives. Oak and tropical hardwoods such as
teak, for example, can last for many years, weathering to a nice silvery finish
that fits in very well with the planting. Various blended timber oils, such as teak
oil and Danish oil, are available if you want to keep hardwood looking like new.
Softwood is another matter. Except for a few expensive timbers including
western red cedar, untreated softwood is not durable enough for outdoor use.
You can either buy it already pressure-treated or paint it with a preservative to
help protect it from rot. Conventional coal-tar creosote was, until recently, widely
used for treating fences and sheds, but safety concerns led to its withdrawal
from general sale in the EU. A number of other chemicals (some of them highly
toxic) that were formerly used freely in timber preservatives have also been
replaced by safer alternatives. Even so, pressure-treated timber and
commercial timber preservatives should never be used near water in case of
contamination, and some people now choose to avoid them altogether, turning
to alternative compounds using natural resins, vegetable oils and the less
harmful inorganic chemicals such as borax.
The best ‘green’ advice is to buy good-quality timber, whether hardwood or
softwood – sustainably sourced, of course (see here) – and to prolong its life by
keeping it clean and free from algae, and by regular treatment with a low-impact
product such as a vegetable-based oil.
Painting timber can help it to resist weather. There is a wide range of paints
and woodstains for outdoor timber on the market, many of them much safer
than their predecessors. They are available in many colours and very easy to
apply.
HOW TO erect posts and panels

First mark out the position of the fence on the ground and calculate how many panels and
posts you will need. The posts should be 75 × 75mm (3 × 3in) or 100 × 100mm (4 × 4in) in
section, and one-third as long again as the final height of the fence. Dig the first post hole
deep enough to allow one-quarter of the post to be sunk into the ground. Put in the post,
check that it is perfectly vertical using a spirit level and then fill the hole almost to the top with
concrete (1:6 cement : ballast). Pack the concrete down with a stout piece of wood.

Brace the post temporarily with two timber battens, making sure that it doesn’t move from the
perpendicular. Leave it at least overnight for the concrete to set. You can now dig the other
post holes. Use a piece of gravel board cut to the length of a panel to measure out their
positions. (Don’t forget to allow for the width of the post in between panels.) Next, set up a
level string line to run from the first post, just above the height of the fence, to a temporary
post or cane at the other end. The exact height isn’t critical but it will help you to get the
panels level.
Cut a pressure-treated gravel board to exactly the same length as the panels. Fix it to the post
with a U-shaped galvanized panel bracket, supporting the board from underneath to get it
level and making sure the alignment is right. This is important because you will be using the
gravel board as a base for the fence panel, so if the board is crooked, the fence will be too. If
there’s a gap between the board and the ground (as there will be if the fence is on ground
with even a slight slope) you can fill it later with soil or stones.

Fit two or three panel brackets, evenly spaced, to the first post, screwing in each one
securely. Then perch the first panel on top of the gravel board. Ask a helper to hold it steady
for you (especially if it’s windy) while you screw the sides of each bracket into each side of the
panel to attach the panel to the post. If the fence is on level ground, try to get the brackets at
the same height along the whole length of the fence. This will give you a much neater effect.
Set up the next post, checking the verticals. Fix it to the end of the fence panel and when
everything is in place fill the hole with concrete as before. Continue fitting boards, panels and
posts in this way until you reach the end. You may need to cut the last board and panel to
make it fit the remaining space. If the fence is to be topped with trellis, fit this now by screwing
each trellis panel to the posts at either end. Finally, fit post caps to protect the posts from rain.

There’s always scope for customizing a plain fence. Decorative finials in various shapes and
styles can be bought in do-it-yourself stores, or you may know a local craftsman who would
make exactly what you want.
Hands on: Decking

Decking is a good choice if you want to create a smooth

transition from indoors to out, or from an elevated ground floor
to a garden on a lower level. A new conservatory or garden
building may have left you with awkward shapes and levels to
deal with, or it may need a visual anchor to connect it with the
garden. Decking is often the answer.

Decking may look complicated, but building it is easier than it might

seem, though for large or high decks, or those spanning different
levels, it may be a wise move to get professional help. The basic
method outlined opposite could also be adapted to building a
boardwalk or even a simple footbridge.
It’s important to use the right materials. Structural timbers must be
strong and durable while the deck itself must be weather-resistant and
splinter-free. In wet weather, and especially in winter, decking can
become slippery and can take time to dry out. Purpose-made grooved
boards are fairly firm underfoot if you keep them clean. They are
widely available in softwoods such as cedar, as are handrails, posts
and other accessories.

Don’t forget

You may need permission to build a deck so check local planning

restrictions. The structure may also be subject to building
regulations. If so, it will be much easier to adapt your design before
the deck is constructed.
A deck can be very simple or as ambitious as this one, with changing levels, tailored planters
and even a mature tree with a hammock to lie in.

HOW TO build decking

First erect the posts that will bear the framework. You’ll need a pressure-treated 100mm ×
100mm (4 × 4in) post at each corner and one about every 1.5m (5ft) around the edge of the
deck. Level the ground and take out any large weeds and roots, but try not to loosen the soil
too much. Dig a hole about 30 × 30 × 30cm (12 × 12 × 12in) for each post and lay half a
concrete block flat on the bottom of each hole to spread the weight. Stand each post upright
on its block and fill the hole with concrete, making sure the posts are perfectly perpendicular.
Leave several days for the concrete to set properly. Cover the entire area to be decked with
permeable black matting to keep weeds down, anchoring it with a covering of shingle.

Begin to build the framework of joists, using 150 × 50mm (6 × 2in) timbers cut to length. Start
around the edges, fixing the joists to the outside faces of the corner posts with heavy-duty
galvanized coach bolts (see here). Check that these joists are level, then begin to fix other
joists to them inside the framework at 45cm (18in) intervals. Use joist hangers (or other
suitably strong metal fixings) and robust screws for this. Make sure the joists are parallel. Fix
shorter pieces of timber (‘noggins’) between each pair of joists, at staggered intervals, to
make the structure more stable. You can now cut off the posts to the required height – either
flush with the joists or higher up if you want them to support a wooden rail or a rope barrier
round the edge of the deck.
Build the surface of the deck with 100 × 25mm (4 × 1in) grooved boards. Start by positioning
them across the framework. If the deck adjoins a building, they can be parallel to the wall, at
right-angles to it or at 45 degrees to it. Leave 5mm (¼in) gaps between the boards to allow
rainwater to run off. Push thin, evenly sized pieces of wood (spacers) in between the boards
as you work to help keep the spaces constant and the boards parallel. Stagger any joints, and
leave a generous overhang of at least 50mm (2in) around the edges. Now screw the boards
to the joists, countersinking the screws so they don’t stick up. Use a straight edge to draw a
line around the edge of the deck and trim the boards so that they have the same overhang all
the way round.

A corner of the completed decking, showing the framework of joists , a post , galvanized
coach bolts , a joist , a noggin , decking boards and spacers .
 Timber fixings
Any timberwork is only as strong as the joints and fixings that hold it together.
For outdoor projects, especially, it’s important to use accessories that are up to
the job and that will withstand everything the weather can throw at them. Never
use cheap, flimsy fixings, or ones that will rust easily, for load-bearing
structures. This is a false economy and will cost you more in the long run.
Screws, bolts and other fixings should be hot-dipped galvanized, or made from
stainless steel, or brass. Solid brass is the best and most durable option for
decking, but definitely more expensive. For joining heavy timbers in load-
bearing frameworks, use coach bolts 10mm or 12mm in diameter. Ensure that
they are long enough for the nut to be at least 5mm (¼in) from the end. Pre-drill
screw holes, which will prevent the timber splitting. An exception to this is if you
use special decking screws. These enable you to avoid the tedious job of pre-
drilling holes when fitting deck boards.
For most jobs, screws are preferable to nails, which are quicker to fix but can
work loose, bend, or split the timber. If you do use nails outdoors, make sure
they are galvanized to help prevent failure or staining through rust.
Hands on: Timber pergolas

Pergolas come in all sizes, shapes and materials, with their

supporting uprights built of brick, stone, metal or timber. Some
are a bit ambitious for an amateur DIY enthusiast, but with a
little time, patience and a bit of basic know-how, building the
framework of a simple timber pergola is not difficult. Your
‘home-grown’ pergola will probably be stronger and better
value for money than a ready-made one that comes in kit
form, and you can tailor the size and style to get exactly what
you want.

A small freestanding pergola will need four uprights, one at each

corner – size is a personal choice but don’t make the posts too
skimpy. Each pair supports a longitudinal beam, bolted to the uprights.
The beams, in turn, support a series of evenly spaced joists, fixed to
the beams by means of cross-halving joints. To make these, a
rectangular notch is cut to half the depth of each timber, in the top of
the beam and the bottom of the joist. The notches interlock at right
angles, helping to make the structure more stable. The joists usually
overhang the beams by 30cm (12in) or so, to give the pergola
balance.

Make a plan
Before you start, sketch a plan of the pergola, with measurements,
and list the materials you will need. Be sure to buy uprights that are
long enough: 3m (10ft) sounds a lot, but is usually about right (unless
the pergola is disproportionately narrow). This will allow plenty of
height – about 2.4m (8ft) – for people and romantically dangling
climbing plants, and still leave a 60cm (24in) length to bury in the
ground as a firm anchor. The side beams and joists that make up the
roof of a pergola, arbour or arch can be made with treated softwood
measuring 150 or 200 × 50mm (6 or 8 × 2in) in section, cut about
60cm (24in) longer than the distance across the structure between
posts, to allow for an overhang. This size of timber will provide a
generous depth for notched joints and will be strong enough to
withstand the weight of climbing plants.

Come into the garden … The pergola here transforms a shady passageway to make a leafy
and inviting approach to a greenhouse.
 Pergolas on buildings
A pergola can make an attractive and practical addition to a house wall (ideally
south-facing). Planted with deciduous climbers, this extra ‘room’ outside will be
a pleasure to eat or relax in during the summer. It will also shade the windows in
summer but let light into the house in winter. Assuming there is space on the
wall, you’ll need to adapt the basic timber pergola so that one side of it is
supported on the house wall rather than on free-standing posts. Do this by fixing
a sturdy timber, 100 or 150 × 50mm (4 or 6 × 2in) in section and the length of
the pergola, to the house wall using strong masonry fixings. This timber support
is called a wall plate. The joists are fixed directly to the wall plate with joist
hangers, or they can rest on top of the wall plate and be secured to it with
diagonal screws or L-shaped brackets. The joists can, alternatively, be fixed to
the wall at a sloping angle, rather like an unglazed lean-to greenhouse.

HOW TO make a timber pergola

Mark out the outline of the pergola on the ground with pegs and string. Be sure to get the post
locations right, and check that everything is square. Then dig the post holes, 60cm (24in)
deep and about 30cm (12in) across. If your ground tends to be wet, dig the post holes a little
deeper and spread a layer of hard core or scalpings in the bottom, compacting it well with a
sturdy piece of timber.
Set a post upright in the first hole and hold it in place by packing a few half-bricks and stones
into the hole. Check with a spirit level that it is exactly perpendicular, and that it is in the right
place and the correct height above the ground. (It’s easy to rush this, but a little extra time and
trouble spent getting it spot-on at this stage will pay dividends later.) Repeat with the other
posts.

Ask a helper to hold each post in turn in position while you fill the holes almost to the top with
fairly stodgy concrete (mixed using 6:1 ballast : cement). You can slope the concrete down to
help shed water away from the post. Leave a gap of about 50mm (2in) at the top so you can
cover the concrete with soil when the structure is complete.
Check once more that the posts are still perpendicular and their tops level, then firm the
concrete around each one with a piece of timber. Leave the concrete to harden for a few days
before fixing the roof structure. That gives you plenty of time to cut evenly spaced, rectangular
notches in the tops of the side beams, into which the joists will fit (see here). Position the end
notches right next to the posts. You can cut the ends of the beams and joists neatly and
evenly to whatever shape you fancy.

Once you have cut the notches in the side beams, use galvanized coach bolts to fix the
beams lengthwise to the tops of the posts. Next, hold each joist in position so that there is an
equal overhang on each side of the pergola and mark a notch in the bottom of the joist at
each side, to correspond with the notches in the beams. Cut the notches, then fit the joists
over the beams and secure them tightly from below with galvanized screws.
The completed pergola, showing how the posts (1), the two side beams (2) and the joists (3)
are joined together.

Don’t forget

After you have cut pressure-treated timber, paint all the cut surfaces
with timber preservative to prevent rot.
Hands on: Gravel and chippings

For many purposes, a properly laid porous surface such as

shingle, stone chippings or chipped bark can be an easier –
and cheaper and more flexible – option than paving, concrete
or tarmac. You don’t have to worry as much about gradients,
drainage, freezing or flooding, and it creates a more relaxed
look than formal paving. Use single slabs as stepping stones
set into the aggregate in areas that get regular trampling.

Chipped bark
Don’t dismiss chipped bark as a surfacing material, especially as a temporary
solution. It’s cheap, a doddle to lay, and it will ultimately improve the soil. If you
decide to change the path, bark is easy to move, or it can be used as a mulch
on beds and borders, or simply composted if you no longer want it. Of course,
it’s the surface of choice for play areas because it offers a relatively soft landing,
but you can also use it for paths in the vegetable garden, informal paths
elsewhere and for open areas around an arbour, gazebo or shed. Strips of
timber, stones, tiles or bricks can be used to define the edges, and for a firmer,
all-weather surface you can lay loose paving slabs on top of the bark as
stepping-stones, making sure they are firmly bedded down.
The timber edging here encloses a base layer of scalpings topped with Cotswold-style
limestone chippings.

HOW TO lay a shingle path

Use string and pegs, or a trail of sand, to mark the edges of the path, then dig out the soil until
you have a flat-bottomed trench about 10cm (4in) deep. Use pressure-treated softwood
planking, 100mm × 25mm (4 × 1in), for the edging. Position it along the sides of the trench,
and hammer in wooden pegs, 300mm (12in) long and 50 × 50mm (2 × 2in) in section, to hold
it in position. The top of the pegs should be about 25mm (1in) below the top of the boards.
Screw the boards to the pegs with galvanized screws.
Spread scalpings about 75mm (3in) deep right across the trench and rake them level. Using a
powered compactor plate (if you are laying the path yourself you can hire one) firm them into
an even layer with no humps or hollows, finishing about 30mm (1¼in) below the top of the
boards. This will give the path a good solid base, and compacting the scalpings down firmly
will help prevent weeds coming through.

Pour in shingle to a depth of about 25mm (1in) and rake until the surface is smooth and level.
The boards that mark the edges should be slightly proud of the path’s surface to prevent the
gravel from spilling out over the adjoining area. The gravel may settle a little over time so
keep it topped up. Regular raking works wonders and will keep your path looking smart,
especially in autumn when the leaves are falling fast.
Hands on: Wall fixings

Permanent wall supports for plants don’t take long to fit, and a
purpose-made structure makes tying in so much easier. Taut
horizontal wires spaced about 45cm (18in) apart are fine for
climbing roses, fan-trained fruit trees and wall shrubs with stiff
stems, while trellis will give better support to the tendrils and
soft shoots of fast-growing plants such as sweet peas and
clematis.

HOW TO put up wall wires

Mark where you want to fix each wire in the mortar between bricks, with a soft pencil,
checking that the line between them will be level with the brick courses. Drill a hole at either
end for the vine eyes, and for long spans make additional holes at 1m (40in) intervals. Use
wall plugs slightly longer than the screw thread of the vine eye, and drill holes just wide and
deep enough to take the plugs.
Push a wall plug into each hole and screw in a vine eye, finishing with the ‘eye’ facing
sideways to keep the wire horizontal. Using strong galvanized wire, fix one end to your first
vine eye by bending it round the eye to make a loop, then twisting the end round the wire to
secure it. Run the wire through any intervening eyes, then stretch it taut and secure it to the
eye at the other end.

Tie the plants (not too tightly) to the wires at intervals. Use soft, strong ties or twine in a
neutral colour. For plants that throw out new stems every year, ordinary jute twine is fine (and
biodegradable). For plants with a more permanent framework, tie loosely with stronger twine
or plant ties. Some plant ties can be reused, which is handy because you can easily
reposition them as plants grow.

HOW TO fix trellis to walls

Cut battens (50 × 25mm/2 × 1in in section) to the width of the trellis panel and paint them with
preservative and/or exterior timber paint. Drill holes near each end, with additional ones
evenly spaced between them if the panels are more than 1m (40in) wide. Mark the positions
of the battens on the wall, about 30cm (12in) from the top and bottom of the trellis. Drill holes
in the wall as for step 1 above, corresponding to the holes in the battens.

Fix the battens to the wall with wall plugs and galvanized or brass screws long enough to
make a secure fixing into the wall. Mark screw holes in the trellis to correspond with the
battens behind, making sure that everything is level, and that the two sets of screws won’t
coincide. Hold the trellis in position against the wall to check everything is in the right place,
then drill holes in the trellis just big enough to take the screws.

Ask a helper to hold the trellis steady while you fix the first two screws, then screw in all the
others. Dig a roomy hole for your climber or wall shrub, slightly away from the dry base of the
wall, and put plenty of compost in the base. Put the plant in, fill in the hole, firm the soil and
water in well to settle the roots. Finally, spread the plant’s stems out along the base of the
trellis, to ensure good coverage, and tie them in fairly loosely.
Hands on: Lawns

A soft, green lawn is the ideal surface for relaxation, as well as

for setting off your plants to perfection. Yet with today’s trend
towards smaller, lower-maintenance gardens, some consider
lawns too much trouble. But if you have the space, and don’t
mind mowing, a lawn is as indispensable now as it ever was.

Our temperate climate lends itself well to lawns. They are a brilliant foil
for planting, and in a family garden there is no substitute for a lawn as
a soft, spacious surface for children to play on. Don’t think of it as an
easy option, though – especially in difficult areas such as dry shade or
where the soil regularly becomes waterlogged. A good lawn needs
patience and care, and the edges must be kept trimmed. An edging of
stones or bricks helps keep the perimeter neat; set them slightly lower
than the grass so the mower can pass over the edge. Where a lawn
and a border meet, a broad paved edging to the grass is ideal so that
plants at the front of the border can spread forward, breaking up the
edge without shading out the grass or making it difficult to mow.

Turf is normally delivered in rolls like this. Don’t leave it rolled up for long, though – it needs
laying immediately.
 Mini meadows
Most gardens are too small for a full-scale meadow and they can be tricky to
establish, but consider leaving a small patch of grass to grow longer, and allow
wild flowers such as cowslips, daisies, speedwell, trefoil and clover to grow and
seed themelves around. You’ll be surprised how pretty these look, once you see
them as flowers not weeds. The mini meadow will look beautiful in spring and
early summer, and will be hugely beneficial to wildlife, especially insects. Mow
neat paths through the longer grass, to save crushing it when you walk through
and to make it clear that it’s meant to be like that – you haven’t just forgotten to
mow!
A well-groomed, neatly edged lawn takes some looking after, even once it is well established,
but in gardens where there is space its smooth green expanse is hard to beat as a foil for the
plants that surround it.

HOW TO lay turf

Prepare the ground thoroughly by forking or digging, removing large clods, stones and roots
as you go. Then, taking your time, rake and tread the soil, still removing stones and lumps,
and working in different directions to achieve a firm, level surface. Sprinkle a general fertilizer
at the recommended rate and then rake once more so you finish with a covering of fine, level
soil with no footprints.

Beginning with a straight edge, unroll and position the first turf, then the second, fitted closely
up against the first, and so on – until you have a line of turves. Tamp the whole row down
gently but firmly with the head of a rake to settle it into the soil. Lay a plank along the first row
of turves to work from when laying the second row; don’t walk on the freshly laid turf or the
surface will become uneven. Make sure each turf is laid snugly against its neighbour and
stagger the joints in each row. Repeat this process until the whole area is covered.
Still working from your plank, use an old, sharp kitchen knife to trim the edges of the new lawn
to the shape you want. Water gently but thoroughly to help the turf bind, and keep watering
every few days, preferably in the evening, unless it rains. If the turves dry out before they
have rooted they will shrink and pull away from each other, leaving unsightly gaps. The turf
should be rooted and growing within a couple of weeks, by which time the ground should
have settled enough for you to mow for the first time, keeping the mower blades set high.

HOW TO sow grass seed for a new lawn

The preparation is exactly as for laying turf (see here), but the timing is more critical. Early to
mid-autumn is best, but mid- to late spring can also be a good time if it isn’t too dry. You could
use what is called the ‘stale seedbed’ technique. This means leaving the prepared ground for
a couple of weeks to settle, and letting surface weed seeds germinate. You then hoe them off
and give a final, light treading and raking.
If you want to sow seed by hand, use about 25–50g (1–2oz) per square metre (square yard).
To achieve even coverage, divide the seed into two lots. Sprinkle one half, thinly, in one
direction (say east to west) and the other half roughly at right angles to the first (north to
south). Check the area once more and if there are any bare patches, sow extra seed to cover.

You won’t be able to cover all the seed, but rake very lightly to work at least some of it into the
soil. Leave no footprints! If necessary, lay twiggy prunings or tautly stretched netting over the
newly sown lawn to keep off birds. The seed should germinate within a couple of weeks if you
keep it well watered. Mow for the first time when the grass reaches about 5cm (2in), choosing
a dry day and making sure your mower blades are sharp.
Hands on: Water features

There’s nothing quite like water for bringing a garden to life.

The tradition of using water in gardens goes back to the
earliest times and has been an integral part of almost every
culture that has created gardens. The sight and sound of
water are calming, relaxing and cooling, and a pond or water
feature makes a wonderful focal point in any garden.

When and where?

The best time for making a pond or water feature is late winter, when
you won’t have to rush, and there will be time for the water and
surrounds to settle before you do your planting, ideally in mid-spring.
Choose a dry spell for the digging if you can – it’s less messy that
way. Avoid frosty weather if you are using concrete or mortar.
Think about the best location for your water feature, and decide on
its shape and form, during the previous growing season – so you can
visualize the effect while the garden is in full swing. The site for a
static pond should be reasonably level and sunny and, if your garden
is on a slope, it should be at the bottom rather than the top. Avoid
overhanging trees – you’d be surprised how quickly a small water
feature or pond can fill up with leaves in autumn. It’s nice to have
room to stroll all the way round it, and convenient for maintenance too,
so don’t position it too close to a boundary. A pleasant, sunny spot for
a seat should be factored in as well. In winter, especially, it’s lovely to
be able to do your pond-watching from the house, so if possible locate
it within easy viewing distance and keep the sight lines clear. Lastly, a
wildlife pond, in particular, will benefit from being topped up with
rainwater, so you could plan for an underground hose leading to the
pond from a nearby water butt, fitted with a tap.
Planting is the key to making a pond look natural. Just as in a border, try to choose an
assortment of plant shapes to give visual interest.

‘Natural’ ponds
Creating a ‘natural’ pond is the easiest way to make a real difference
to your garden. It requires a certain amount of hard labour, but
minimal construction expertise. Carefully chosen plants will, when
settled in, do the work of a pump and filter, though you must be
prepared for a certain amount of maintenance a few times a year, to
keep the balance of planting right. With a bit of forethought and
patience, it’s easy to make the pond look natural. In many gardens
this will be the best overall solution, for you and for wildlife. (See
here.)

Formal pools
Building a formal pool is a task for a dedicated and proficient DIY
enthusiast or a professional. The job involves constructing a
waterproof ‘box’ – usually rectangular or round – with vertical sides
built from blockwork. The pond can be raised or part-raised, or
completely sunk into the ground. It will need a pump and a filter, and
therefore an electricity supply.

Fountains or bubble-jet features

Water features of this kind are the safest and best option if you have
young children, and they are relatively easy to construct. They’re even
available in kit form. The feature consists of a concealed, pre-formed
underground reservoir that is covered with a reproduction millstone or
other big stone, or an arrangement of large pebbles, from which a
gentle water-jet emerges. The water is recycled into the reservoir. A
solar-powered fountain even allows you to do without electricity, as
long as you’re happy to have running water only intermittently – when
it’s sunny.

A formal canal like this one in the Dillon Garden in Dublin is a job for a top-flight professional,
but it’s a fine example of how inspired design and classic materials can complement water –
all set off by perfect planting.

Streams
An artificial stream that doesn’t look artificial is one of the more difficult
water projects to pull off successfully, but if you have the right setting,
and if you’re up for something challenging, why not have a go? A
feature like this really needs to be built into a natural slope to look
right, and you have to be meticulous about covering every bit of the
liner and concealing the pump and filter properly, for the illusion to
really work. Consult a specialist water gardening book or website, or
visit a dedicated water gardening specialist. A good place to go for
advice is the retail or online supplier of the pump, liner and other
equipment; they may offer help or recommendations.

Rills
This is the formal equivalent of a stream – a narrow, lined, waterproof
channel, often with little waterfalls and perhaps a fountain at the end.
Rills are found in some of the classic formal gardens. A rill is
ambitious to plan and build, but it can look fantastic in an appropriate
setting. As with a stream, the workings must be well hidden to avoid
spoiling the elegant, streamlined appearance.

Container ponds
If you have very little space you can make a water garden in a
waterproofed half-barrel, trough or other container, either free-
standing or sunk into the ground. Make it as large as you can – small
bodies of water are much more susceptible to extremes of
temperature.

Even a tiny garden can have a water feature in a container such as a large stone or ceramic
pot or a wooden half-barrel. Choose a container to suit your garden. You can have either
open water or a bubble-jet, like this.
HOW TO make a ‘natural’ pond

What you need

Hosepipe, or string and canes
Dry sand for marking out
Mini-digger (for large ponds)
Skip or trailer (if removing any or all of the spoil from the site)
Spade and shovel
Wheelbarrow
Plank long enough to span the pond
Long spirit level

Materials
Soft sand
This is used to smooth the surface of the hole.
Pond underlay
This special polyester material (sold by stockists of pond liner) is laid
underneath the liner to protect it. It is quite inexpensive, but before it
became available thick layers of newspaper or old carpets were used
instead.
Pond liner
The heavy-duty, black rubber sheeting called butyl is best and will last
longest. It is expensive, but so is having to do the whole thing again
because the bargain-basement polythene liner you used sprang a
leak. To make certain the liner is big enough, calculate how much you
will need by measuring the maximum width and length of the pond,
including the margin around the edge, then adding twice the maximum
depth to each of these dimensions to give you the width and length of
liner required.
Don’t forget

For smaller ponds, you might choose to use a pre-formed, rigid

fibreglass shell. If you do, it’s critical to make every part of the hole
fit the shell exactly in order to support it evenly, with no air gaps or
areas of loose soil beneath.

Mark out the shape you want the pond to be, using first a hosepipe or a length of string held
in place with canes. Next, mark out the perimeter by pouring dry sand gently out of a plastic
bottle. Plan where to put the deepest area, which should be at least 60cm (24in) deep, and
where to have gently sloping, beach-like edges and level underwater shelves (about 20cm/8in
deep and 15cm/6in wide) to stand plants on. Earth slopes should be no steeper than 20
degrees from vertical, or the sides may collapse.

Get digging! For large ponds, hiring a mini-digger may be worth the trouble and expense, but
if you’re reasonably fit, and take your time, there’s no reason not to do the job by hand. It’s
cheaper and less disruptive. Keep some of the turf, which you may want to use for edging the
pond. Put the spoil on a large tarpaulin beside the hole, keeping topsoil and subsoil separate
if you plan to use the topsoil elsewhere in the garden. Remove as many stones as you can
and try to make the bottom of the pond firm and flat.
A contemporary natural pond, with a shaped deck providing a comfortable place to relax and
watch the comings and goings of pondlife and birds. The cobbled ‘beach’ is ideal for letting
birds and frogs reach shallow water, while the shrubs beyond the pond will provide essential
cover.

It’s vital to ensure that the rim of the pond is level. Move soil around, either by building the
edges up or bringing the level down until the edge looks the same height all the way round.
Check that everything is level by laying a plank across the top of the hole, with a spirit level
placed along it. For large ponds, mark the required level on pegs driven into the pond edges
and run string across from one to another, again using a spirit level to check every so often
that it’s all horizontal.
Spread an even layer of soft sand, at least 250mm (1in) thick, over the entire area. This
makes a stone-free ‘cushion’ for the liner. Then cover the sand with special pond underlay
and peg the edges in place. Recruit a helper for unfolding and laying the liner – it will be
heavy and awkward to handle, and the less you have to move it about the less likely it is to
get damaged. Unfold the liner centrally across the pond, then adjust the edges. Don’t walk on
it. Hold the edges in place temporarily with bricks, smooth boulders or short planks.

The exciting bit! Turn on the hose to fill the pond. Adjust the liner as necessary during this
process so that it hugs the shape of the hole, and make sure any folds are small, tidy ones.
Let the whole thing settle overnight, then cut off the edges of the liner to leave a 30cm (12in)
margin beyond the water’s edge.
Cover the exposed edges of the liner. This is important both to make the pond look natural
and to prevent the liner from perishing in the sun. Use turf, which can run down into the water,
or paving stones, which should overhang the edge slightly. Decking (either as a terrace or a
boardwalk) also works well beside water. Let things settle before you introduce plants. Be
prepared for the water to take time to clear: an initial period of murkiness is quite normal.

Pond safety
Young children and ponds are a worrying combination, and you may decide to
avoid open water until your children are older. A toddler can drown in only a tiny
amount of water. One option, however, is to cover the pond with a decorative
rigid metal grille.
Before deciding where to put the pond, check whether there are any
underground services such as electricity or telephone cables, drains, or gas, oil
or water pipes in the vicinity. You will be digging deep, and you don’t want any
nasty surprises when the hole is half dug.
Site the pond well away from trees with toxic leaves or seeds, such as
laburnum, laurel or yew, to avoid contaminating the water.
Don’t use garden chemicals or treated timber near a pond.
Avoid using slippery materials near the pond edge.
Always use a qualified electrician to wire up any pumps, filters and lighting
that are connected to the mains supply.

Plants for water

Whatever type of water feature you choose, it is likely to have some
kind of planting in and around it. Plants are essential to keep the water
sweet in ponds without pumps and filters. They also provide a vital
habitat for many kinds of water creature, from snails – these do a
great algae-hoovering job that helps keep the water clean – to
dragonflies. These beautiful creatures depend on plants: first as a
place to lay their eggs and then, when the next generation matures,
as a means of emerging from the water. Choose as many native
plants as possible: they are kinder to the environment and to wildlife,
and many of them are as beautiful as their exotic cousins.

Underwater plants
Submerged plants such as pondweeds play a vital housekeeping role
in aquatic ecosystems by giving off oxygen directly into the water and
by helping to control the spread of algae. Some of the common
oxygenators, such as the Canadian pondweed Elodea canadensis,
are too thuggish for garden ponds, and it is better to use the native
pondweeds that are available in good garden centres. These include
native species of milfoil such as Myriophyllum spicatum and M.
verticillatum, and Potamogeton crispus (curled pondweed).

Deep-water plants
Some of the most frequently seen aquatic plants need deepish water
for their roots but carry their leaves and flowers on the surface. They
are usually planted in perforated plastic baskets to keep them in place.
Baskets with fine plastic mesh, which don’t need lining, are a good
choice.
Everyone is familiar with the round leaves and gorgeous, waxy
flowers of waterlilies, but that doesn’t mean they are easy to grow.
They don’t like moving water, or even a fountain, and they won’t flower
without plenty of sunlight. Above all, you need to choose the right
water lily for the size and depth of your pond. Many white ones are too
vigorous for small ponds. Nymphaea tetragona is a good miniature
white, happy in only 25cm (10in) of water in even the tiniest pond. The
fragrant N. ‘Walter Pagels’ is larger, but still quite compact, with
creamy-white double flowers. Pink and red ones to look out for include
N. ‘Rose Arey’ and N. ‘Froebelii’. A small to medium-sized formal pool
makes a perfect setting for them and, if they are happy, they will flower
for months.

Waterlilies are a must for many pond owners, but there are so many to choose from.
Nymphaea ‘Rose Arey’ ticks most of the necessary boxes: it’s early-flowering, fragrant, not
too vigorous – and rather beautiful.

The hardier arum lilies, for example Zantedeschia aethiopica

‘Crowborough’, will usually survive outdoors all winter if their crowns
are in deepish water. Elegant, shapely white flower spathes make this
a plant of distinction, especially beautiful at dusk.

Marginal plants
These are the plants that grow on the shelf at the edge of a pond, with
just their roots and lower stems submerged. They too can be planted
in perforated plastic baskets. Butomus umbellatus (flowering rush) is a
beautiful wild water plant, with pale pink flowers, not unlike those of an
allium, in high summer. Caltha palustris (kingcup or marsh marigold)
has bright golden flowers (‘water-blobs’) in early spring, which have
always made it a firm favourite. The sword-like leaves of irises
emerging from the water in spring suit both wild and more formal
ponds; Iris laevigata (Japanese water iris) has many cultivated forms
with flowers in different colours, as well as one with silver-white
variegated leaves. The species is a beautiful lavender blue.
Menyanthes trifoliata (bog bean) is a rather exotic-looking native with
leaves like a broad bean. If it likes your pond it will produce spikes of
beautiful, frilly pale-pink flowers in spring. And nothing smells as
refreshing on a hot day as Mentha aquatica (water mint); its flowers
are pretty too.

Many native water plants are easily as attractive as their exotic alien counterparts. Marsh
marigold or kingcup (above, top) and bogbean (above) are two to try for starters, and there
are lots more.
 Waterside wild flowers
The area around a pond lends itself to a special kind of planting, linking the
water with the rest of the garden and perhaps taking advantage of boggy
ground (see also here). Wild flowers add welcome colour and interest to the
damp grass around a natural pond, and are a magnet for bees and butterflies.
Here are some to try:
Angelica sylvestris (wild angelica)
Cardamine pratensis (lady’s smock)
Filipendula ulmaria (meadowsweet)
Fritillaria meleagris (snakeshead fritillary)
Geum rivale (water avens)

Lychnis flos-cuculi (ragged robin)

Parnassia palustris (grass of Parnassus)
Ranunculus acris (meadow buttercup)
Valeriana officinalis (common valerian)
Veronica beccabunga (brooklime)

Rejuvenating a pond
Ponds soon become clogged and overgrown if they are neglected for any length
of time. Renovating a pond is a wet and messy job, but it is also very satisfying.
You will need a lawn rake to pull out all the plants, piling them on the bank as
you go. Take care when raking – if you are too enthusiastic about it, you could
puncture the pond liner. Then clear out as much as possible of the accumulated
gunge at the bottom of the pond. Re-plant healthy-looking pieces of the plants
you want to keep, and treat yourself to a few new ones. Leave the rest of the
plant pile overnight, so any trapped water creatures have a chance to escape,
and next day tidy and weed the surrounds. Late winter and early spring are the
best times for a clear out, but avoid disturbing frog and toad spawn.
 What not to plant
Certain non-native water plants have escaped from cultivation and in some
places have formed damagingly vigorous colonies in natural watercourses,
upsetting their delicate ecological balance, threatening native species and
costing a lot to eradicate. Water plants you should never buy, even though you
may see them on sale or recommended in old books, include:
Azolla filiculoides (fairy fern)
Crassula helmsii (Australian swamp stonecrop or New Zealand pygmy weed)
Eichhornia crassipes (water hyacinth)
Hydrocotyle ranunculoides (floating pennywort)
Lagarosiphon major (curly waterweed)
Myriophyllum aquaticum (parrot’s feather or Brazilian water milfoil)
Pistia stratiotes (water lettuce)

There are other common plants that, despite some of them being native and
attractive, are simply too large and vigorous for a small garden pond. These
include:
Gunnera manicata
Iris pseudacorus (yellow flag)
Lythrum salicaria (purple loosestrife)
Sparganium erectum (branched bur-reed)
Typha latifolia (great reedmace or bulrush)
 FOCUS ON Small spaces

Gardens are getting smaller, and nowadays many homes in

towns – especially new houses – have only a tiny outdoor
space to call their own. This is ideal for busy people who have
little time or enthusiasm for gardening, or for older people who
may have downsized from a large garden. Yet even the
smallest garden can work brilliantly well, provided it is
thoughtfully planned and has a simple, cohesive design.

‘Less is more’
This may be an overused phrase, but it really does apply when you’re
dealing with a very small garden. Visual tricks may make the space
seem bigger, but in terms of how much you should actually fit in
there’s a definite limit. To look and feel right, any garden needs some
open space, and if you cram in too many features you will end up with
an overcrowded, cramped garden that is hard to maintain and no
pleasure to be in – like a room with too much furniture. When
allocating space to particular features, always remember to allow
enough ‘elbow room’ – space to move about around a table and
chairs, for example, and room to pass comfortably through doors and
gates, even when you’re carrying a basket full of wet laundry or a
large sack of compost.
Small but perfectly formed. This is a tiny area of a tiny garden, but it has everything a
satisfying design needs – structure, focal points, variety and year-round interest.

Planting opportunities
A small town garden surrounded by buildings may be shadier than you
would wish (see here), but it will also be sheltered. This gives you the
opportunity to grow a range of foliage plants that would not stand up
to the drying and damaging effects of wind in a more open site.
Try dramatic ferns such as tree ferns or Matteuccia struthiopteris, or
the evergreen native fern Polystichum setiferum, with Vinca minor
(lesser periwinkles) for spring and hostas for summer. Golden foliage
is excellent for adding brightness to semi-shaded areas, though many
golden plants will darken to green if the shade is very deep. Shapely
white flowers such as Zantedeschia aethiopica (arum lilies), Clematis
‘Marie Boisselot’, Dicentra spectabilis ‘Alba’ or the white foxglove
Digitalis purpurea f. albiflora, take on a starring role in shady places,
while foliage plants such as the white-variegated honesty, Lunaria
annua var. albiflora ‘Alba Variegata’, or Arum italicum subsp. italicum
‘Marmoratum’ show off their intricate patterning much better in low
light.
Vertical planting also comes into its own in a small garden. Climbers
of all kinds, trained up obelisks or trellis screens, will emphasize the
third dimension, height. Closer to the ground, it’s a good idea to
include spiky plants and slender, upright grasses such as
Calamagrostis × acutiflora ‘Overdam’ or Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning
Light’ to lead the eye upwards from the limited ground space. Raised
beds also make good use of the vertical space, and can be planted
with treasures such as auriculas and other specialist plants that
demand to be seen close-up.

Hanging baskets and window boxes

A small garden is likely to have a close relationship with its house.
Window boxes and hanging baskets connect the two even more
closely and are an invaluable way of increasing limited planting space.
Use them for fragrant plants, which you can appreciate both indoors
and out, or for a supply of culinary herbs within easy reach of the
kitchen. Sunshine isn’t essential, as long as you choose suitable
plants. Indeed, containers in very sunny spots can dry out rapidly on
hot days, but those sitting in the shade require much less attention.

In tight spaces, simple ideas generally work best. A highly original herb garden makes a
unique feature of a shady passageway.
 Space-saving equipment
Manufacturers of all kinds of garden paraphernalia now cater better than ever
for gardeners with limited space. If you shop around you will find ingenious
space-saving versions of all those things you thought you didn’t have room for,
such as:
Slimline water butt
Lean-to mini-greenhouse
Folding wheelbarrow
Seat with tool storage box underneath
Folding willow obelisk
Folding tables and chairs
 All-year-round greenery for small spaces
Fatsia japonica This is the ultimate architectural evergreen, with great hand-
shaped leaves that cast interesting shadows. Cut it back each spring if you want
to keep it bushy, and don’t let it get too dry.
Ilex aquifolium The many variegated cultivars of holly work equally well as
shrubs or small trees. They are shade-tolerant, and can be kept to size by
pruning once or twice a year.
Laurus nobilis Bay is a favourite for courtyards, entrances and other small
spaces. It will look smart all year round if you keep it pruned to shape in
summer. Prune it with secateurs, not shears, to avoid unsightly brown edges on
leaves cut in half.
Osmanthus × burkwoodii This dark broadleaved evergreen has dense foliage,
and fragrant white blossom in early spring.
Pittosporum tenuifolium With their attractive pale-green leaves and dark
stems, pittosporums never become oppressive. There are cultivars with pretty
purple or variegated foliage.
Taxus baccata Yew is one of the plants that are suitable for the fashionable
Japanese technique of ‘cloud pruning’, which results in a tree with tightly clipped
blobs of foliage (the clouds) linked by short stretches of bare trunk from which
all shoots are removed. The effect is much lighter than that of solid, clipped
yew.
 The sunny wall of a cottage lends itself to conventional planting – well-maintained hanging
baskets bursting with summer colour.
Planting by design
Putting together a planting scheme is a bit like
painting a picture. You are using a palette of
plants to create an apparently seamless (but in
fact carefully contrived) blend of satisfying
composition and effective colours. The
composition angle is sometimes forgotten in
garden planning, but it’s an important
component if you want your collection of plants
to work together as a scheme that looks good all
year. A border needs contrasts of shape, scale
and texture, sequences to lead your eye, and
focal points to act as punctuation marks. Without
these, it can easily become a confusing,
pointless jumble.
Using plants

Everyone has their favourite plants, and we should all have

the ones we like best in our gardens. But if a planting
scheme is to succeed as a balanced, harmonious whole, it’s
also vital to recognize the role that each different plant will
play as part of the team effort. But don’t just make a
collection of plants, with one of each kind, like specimens.
Herbaceous plants, especially, make more impact when at
least some of them are grouped in drifts or clumps of several
individual plants.

Evergreens, bare branches and shapely seedheads emerge as summer foliage and colours
fade, making a garden that is still full of visual interest in winter.

Structure
To some plants, forming the bones of a planting scheme just comes
naturally. Depending on the space you have to play with, these
structural plants might be formal, clipped evergreens such as domes,
cubes or cones of box or yew, positioned to accentuate a path or
mark corners; they could include one or more distinctive trees used
as stand-alone specimens; or perhaps a large architectural plant that
is so striking it simply stands out from the crowd. Climbers trained up
obelisks are another option.
Structural plants should be used with two main things in mind.
First, they should contrast with the many less conspicuous ‘filler’
plants of the growing season, serving as a framework that helps to
hold the scheme together. Secondly, they should also provide
structure in the dormant season. It’s well worth considering how
plants will contribute in winter. A few carefully chosen, distinctive
plants can make all the difference between a garden that has sunk
into off-season tiredness, making you look the other way, and a
picture that gives pleasure whenever you glimpse it.

Grouping plants
Make structural plants your first priority when planning your border,
whether on paper or on the ground. They are difficult to position
correctly at a later stage, and there may well be reasons for putting
them in particular places – hiding an eyesore perhaps, or aligning
with something else to create a focal point. The next step is to
combine them with complementary plants of different shapes, with
the structural plants as the dominant feature. Take care to restrict the
number of dominant plants. Adjacent planting should be a foil for
these, and not steal their thunder. Group complementary plants in
drifts, perhaps with an ‘outlier’ just beyond the end of the group for a
more natural look.
Don’t grade a border strictly in height, from back to front, like a
team photo. Plants at the back must be visible when in flower, but a
few tall grasses or alliums at the front will add depth and richness.
There are no universal rules for putting plants together, and you
will develop your own techniques. A successful border will usually
have been contrived – but it should always look effortless.
Shape
One of the elements that makes the plant world so fascinating is the
diversity of shapes within it. The variety is almost endless, but for the
purposes of planning a planting scheme, plant shapes can be
simplified into a handful of groups. Generally, a recipe for a
successful border will include some from each.

Vertical plants
With a small footprint in relation to their height, the best strongly
vertical plants, in design terms, have distinct upright lines – tall,
slender flower spikes, or sword-shaped leaves, or sometimes both.
This group also includes some conifers and other shrubs and trees
(see here). These emphatic plants, even those that are not very tall,
can contribute valuable structure to a border.

Horizontal plants
Plants with strong horizontal shapes range from those with
sideways-spreading, rounded or spoon-shaped leaves to those with
flat plates of flowers or daisy-like blooms. Also in this group are
shrubs with a layered or tiered effect, or with a spreading branch
structure. Ideal for border edges where there is room for them to
extend laterally, they also contrast vividly with the ‘verticals’, and the
two together form an excellent basis for many a planting scheme.

Domed plants
Included in this group are compact evergreen shrubs such as dwarf
hebes and santolina, and plants, usually herbaceous, that grow in
bun-shaped clumps. These are useful on corners where a low ‘full
stop’ is needed.
 Plants with strong shapes
BOLD FOLIAGE

Cordyline australis
Cynara cardunculus
Fatsia japonica
Ficus carica
Hosta sieboldiana
Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus’
Matteuccia struthiopteris
Rheum palmatum ‘Atrosanguineum’
Ricinus communis

VERTICALS

Spiky leaves Spiky flowers

Cordyline (below) Acanthus

Crocosmia Delphinium

Iris Digitalis

Kniphofia Eremurus (below)

Libertia Kniphofia

Phormium (below) Lupinus

Sisyrinchium Verbascum

Yucca Veronicastrum
 HORIZONTALS

Foliage

Bergenia

Brunnera

Cotoneaster horizontalis

Cyclamen

Hosta

Rheum

Viburnum davidii

Flowers

Achillea

Euphorbia polychroma

Helenium

Rudbeckia

Sedum

Viburnum plicatum f. tomentosum

‘Mariesii’

Filler plants
Softening the lines of the more definite shapes, these plants fill gaps
and help to knit a scheme together. They have a range of textures
and habits from fluffy to creeping, and good examples are Viola
cornuta, trailing campanulas and the ‘wandering’ perennial
geraniums.
 Plants for texture
LIGHT AND FLUFFY

Alchemilla mollis

Astilbe

Crambe cordifolia

Cryptomeria japonica ‘Elegans Compacta’

Eupatorium maculatum Atropurpureum Group

Euphorbia cyparissias ‘Fens Ruby’

Foeniculum vulgare ‘Purpureum’

Gypsophila paniculata

Nigella damascena

Spiraea ‘Arguta’

Stipa tenuissima

Thalictrum aquilegiifolium

BOLD AND LEATHERY

x Fatshedera lizei

Fatsia japonica

Rheum palmatum ‘Atrosanguineum’ (below)

Rodgersia podophylla

Viburnum davidii
A dramatic foliage composition, seen at its best in late spring. From top: Polygonatum ×
hybridum (Solomon’s seal), Rodgersia podophylla, Iris pseudacorus ‘Variegata’ and Hosta
‘Halcyon’.

Texture
A garden that will look good for many months of the year must draw
from the whole spectrum of plant material, and that includes
textures. In your beds and borders, plant groupings that exploit
contrasting textures, as well as shapes and colours, will always have
the edge, enabling you to get more ‘plant power’ out of even the
smallest space. It’s amazing to think of all the different textures that
plants can contribute to a scheme – woolly, waxy, stiff, papery, silky,
shiny, matt and many more (see here). And it’s not just the flowers
and leaves: seedheads, fruits, stems and bark all add to the effect.

Colour
Any garden designer will tell you that to build a satisfying planting
scheme you have to think about all the visual properties of a plant.
But colour is the obvious one for most people, and the one they tend
to feel most strongly about. Favourite colours are deeply ingrained.
Colour is often a matter of ‘gut reaction’ or personal taste that is
certain to influence your choice of plants, but in garden design try to
expand your horizons and get to grips with the power of different
colours to create particular effects.

Combining colours
A lot of the skill in planning a border lies in the way you combine
colours. A good means of learning how to do this is to study planting
schemes at flower shows and in gardens. Record, in notes and
photographs, what works and why. This will also help you to manage
the tricky business of getting flower colours to coincide: a colour
combination is useless if the plants end up flowering at different
times.
A colour wheel – a device used by artists and designers, setting
out the colours of the spectrum in a circle (see here) – can be a
helpful illustration of some of the ways in which colours work with
each other. Colours that are directly opposite on the wheel make the
best contrasts: lime green and purple, orange and deep blue, or red
and green. Colour harmonies work best if they are chosen from
colours that are adjacent to each other on the wheel: yellow, orange
and red, for example.
 Colour and space
As well as the emotional effects of different colour harmonies and contrasts,
colour can be used to manipulate space. In daylight, warm colours – yellow,
orange and red – tend to advance and look closer than they really are. White
has a similar effect, which is particularly marked in dim light. Cool colours –
blues and purples – tend to recede and look farther away, giving a feeling of
spaciousness and distance, except in the low light around dawn and dusk,
when they become prominent.

A simple colour wheel is a handy design tool showing the ways in which colours relate to
each other. Colours that harmonize are adjacent to each other on the wheel, while colours
that make good contrasts are opposite each other.

But remember that when planning a colour scheme you may not
have a completely blank canvas. A strongly coloured existing tree or
shrub such as a photinia or a forsythia, or even a high red-brick wall
(see here), may need to be factored in, and will certainly limit your
palette in that area of the garden.

Using colours
The best plant combinations often come about completely by
chance. Trial and error with colours can be entertaining, and happy
accidents, when plants combine themselves beautifully, do happen.
But you have to wait for them, so it’s a slow route to success. It
definitely pays to have some clear ideas on colours and their effects
at the back of your mind, well before you start to put plants together.
Blue
Of all flower colours, blue is the hardest to capture in photographs.
Perhaps it is this elusiveness that helps make it such a special, and
popular, colour in the garden. Everyone loves blue. Cool, calming,
sophisticated and versatile, it works as a great foil for so many other
colours: with yellows and whites in those long-awaited, fresh
schemes of early spring; with rich reds and violet to make a jewel-
like picture with all the richness of a Persian carpet; or in startling,
two-colour combinations to contrast tellingly with lime green or
orange. Blue also shows up well in low light, especially at dawn and
dusk when it seems to come to the fore.

Purple
Sombre and rather dull on its own, purple goes brilliantly with silver
and grey, and this is a good colour scheme for a dry, sunny site –
perhaps a gravel garden – where you could use drought-resistant
Mediterranean shrubs with tulips, irises and alliums. Purple or
bronze foliage makes a rich, exciting backdrop to red flowers: the
popular Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ has just this combination. Purples
and blues also make a striking but cooler contrast with lime green
plants such as euphorbias or Alchemilla mollis.

Pink
Use paler shades of pink with white, blue and lilac in a classic pastel
scheme, or darker pinks in a glowing mix of rich, sultry hues with
deep blues, reds and purples. Either of these combinations works
well with silver, bronze or green foliage. Pink and yellow can clash
unpleasantly – beware of forsythia and flowering currant or cherry
doing one another no favours in spring if planted too closely. But
pale creamy yellow with a dark pink, such as a magenta cranesbill,
can work very well.
The garden at Great Dixter is famous for exciting and inventive colour combinations – here
alliums, honesty and campanulas contrast with golden wallflowers, in the Solar garden.
A daring Dixter partnership: Salvia involucrata ‘Bethellii’ clashing loudly with Dahlia
‘Chimborazo’.

Red
‘Hot’ borders with a red theme are eye-catching to say the least, and
can be a great way to enjoy a fling of rip-roaring bold colour,
especially in late summer and autumn. Purple, silver and green
foliage all work well as an accompaniment, and there is a surprising
number of wonderful red flowers to choose from: roses, clematis,
dahlias, daylilies, penstemons and many berrying shrubs. The
National Trust gardens at Hidcote, in Gloucestershire, and Tintinhull,
in Somerset, both have glorious red borders. Plan a visit, or look at
photographs, for inspiration.

Orange
Orange is always an exciting colour, whether used in harmonious
schemes with red and yellow, or in more daring contrasts with deep
blue, purple or bronze. Ajuga reptans, with its blue flower spikes in
spring, is a good partner for orange tulips, while orange geums,
poppies or pot marigolds are good with spiky blue salvias a little later
in the year.

Yellow
Yellow seems to be the colour of spring in the garden – all that
forsythia, all those daffodils. It can easily take over again in late
summer, with sunflowers, rudbeckias and goldenrod. Some people
aren’t keen on yellow, and it can be difficult to use with other colours.
But yellow does have a capacity to cheer things up that no other
colour can rival, and it’s worth thinking about how to use it cleverly.
Along with white, it is great for brightening up dull places. Use
golden-variegated shrubs, for instance, to bring the illusion of
sunshine to a corner that doesn’t get much of the real thing (see
here). But be careful – many golden-leaved plants will only keep
their bright colour if they receive a certain amount of light, reverting
to green if it’s too gloomy for them.

Green
This is the most soothing and restorative of all colours. Where there
is no greenery, the lack of it is deeply felt. An all-green garden
(daring, in a way), can be very effective, especially in shade,
transforming a small town garden, perhaps, into a cool, tranquil
retreat. A green scheme, however, needs careful handling because
the interest will depend on plant shapes and textures, and without
enough variety it could easily be dull. Ferns, hostas and shade-
tolerant grasses are a good combination for a calming scheme – but
admittedly it may not be to everyone’s taste.
Green need never be dull. Beth Chatto’s planting of shuttlecock fern (Matteuccia
struthiopteris) with Rodgersia podophylla has all the textural contrast you could wish for.

Green is a great mediator when it comes to warring colours. A

meadow can contain every colour but never looks garish because of
the tempering effect of the grass, and plenty of foliage in a border
prevents an exciting mix turning into a messy riot of clashing colours.
 Variegated plants
It may often seem, especially if you go to a specialist plant sale, as if every
single plant has at least one variegated form – that is, one with leaves that
have cream or yellow markings. From a design angle, variegated plants can
be hugely useful as accent features, or to brighten dull corners. But there’s no
getting away from the fact that variegated plants tend to draw attention to
themselves. If you overdo it you will end up with too many plants clamouring
for the limelight.

Most variegated plants grow more slowly than their green-leaved

counterparts, because they contain less of the green pigment chlorophyll,
which enables photosynthesis – the process by which plants turn sunlight into
energy for growth. Certain variegated plants are clearly suitable for small
spaces but some are such weaklings that they are best avoided or you will
spend your life coaxing them to cling on to theirs.

That said, there are many very good variegated plants: see a selection
below.

VARIEGATED GROUND COVER FOR SHADE

Arum italicum subsp. italicum ‘Marmoratum’

Cyclamen hederifolium

Hedera canariensis ‘Gloire de Marengo’

Hedera colchica ‘Sulphur Heart’

Hedera helix ‘Oro di Bogliasco’

Hosta ‘Wide Brim’

Lamium maculatum ‘White Nancy’

Pulmonaria saccharata

VARIEGATED SPIKY PLANTS

Iris pallida ‘Variegata’

Iris pseudacorus ‘Variegata’

Phormium cookianum subsp. hookeri ‘Cream Delight’

Sisyrinchium striatum ‘Aunt May’

Yucca filamentosa ‘Bright Edge’

VARIEGATED HERBACEOUS PLANTS

Astrantia major ‘Sunningdale Variegated’

Brunnera macrophylla ‘Hadspen Cream’

Euphorbia characias ‘Silver Swan’

Mentha suaveolens ‘Variegata’

Sedum erythrostictum ‘Frosty Morn’

VARIEGATED GRASSES

Calamagrostis × acutiflora ‘Overdam’

Carex morrowii ‘Fisher’s Form’

Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’

Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’

VARIEGATED TREES AND SHRUBS

Acer platanoides ‘Drummondii’

Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’

Cornus controversa ‘Variegata’

Sambucus nigra ‘Marginata’

Weigela ‘Florida Variegata’

 VARIEGATED EVERGREENS

Euonymus fortunei ‘Silver Queen’

Ilex aquifolium ‘Handsworth New Silver’

Luma apiculata ‘Glanleam Gold’

Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’

Rhamnus alaternus ‘Argenteovariegata’

Viburnum tinus ‘Variegatum’

White and silver

White flowers and silver, or grey, foliage (see here) really come into
their own at dusk, standing out in the gloaming when other colours
can no longer be distinguished (see here). Choose plants with
interesting shapes to exploit this – the steely, sharp outlines of
eryngiums, the fans of variegated irises or the delicate froth of
gypsophila. Distinctively shaped white plants set against a dark
background, such as a yew hedge, will really stand out. A dark or
shady backdrop is also ideal for the great trumpets of Lilium regale.
Like many other white flowers, these have a swooning fragrance on
summer evenings. White is a component of all the pastel colours and
combines well with them. It’s also a lovely fresh colour to use in
spring with blues, greens and yellows.
White foxgloves and lupins standing out among a sea of foliage – an especially effective
planting at dusk.
FOCUS ON Mood

The design elements of a garden, like those of an interior,

work in subtle ways to create a mood that you pick up on as
soon as you step into the space. Colour, light, scent, sound,
stillness, temperature and humidity are among the factors
that make up this complex and powerful cocktail.

Light and shade

Light and shade, and the contrast between them, are key
considerations in setting the mood of a particular space. Subdued
light conditions promote feelings of calm, and of welcome coolness
even during hot weather. Bright light can be invigorating in spring,
oppressive and overwhelming in summer, relaxing and perhaps a
touch wistful in autumn. You might use light and shade to create a
sense of mystery, where a sunlit path disappears into dappled tree
cover perhaps, or of anticipation, where a tempting patch of sunlight
is seen beyond an area of shade.

Colour and mood

Use plant colour to influence the mood of a garden and experiment
with some of these well-established links to see if they work for you:

Calming white, blue

Cooling blue, green, white
Cheerful yellow, orange
Mysterious purple, ‘black’
Romantic pink, white, lilac
Exciting red, orange

Movement and sound

Gentle movement and the sound it often produces can have a
soothing and relaxing effect. You can bring movement into a garden
by using water – maybe just a simple bubble-jet, wall spout or solar-
powered fountain. And easier still, introduce some plants that move
with the slightest breath of wind, for instance a birch tree or one of
the grasses, for example the shimmering, silky Stipa tenuissima.
(See also here.)

Scent
There’s no doubt that scents have a powerful effect on mood and
emotions, working in complex and subtle ways to evoke memories
and feelings. The whole thing is very subjective – so the best advice
is just to choose those that you like best. (See also here.)

Contrasting moods: vibrant and stimulating, with Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ leading the cast in a
late-summer border;

cool and calming with a classic pairing of water and willow.

 Moody plants
CALMING BLUES

Anchusa azurea ‘Loddon Royalist’

Caryopteris × clandonensis ‘Heavenly Blue’

Ceanothus ‘Concha’

Ceratostigma willmottianum

Delphinium

Eryngium alpinum

Geranium ‘Rozanne’

Hibiscus syriacus ‘Bluebird’

Iris sibirica ‘Tropic Night’

Nigella damascena

EXCITING REDS

Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’

Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’

Papaver orientale Goliath Group ‘Beauty of Livermere’

Persicaria amplexicaule ‘Firetail’

Pyracantha ‘Saphyr Rouge’

Rosa ‘Geranium’

Tulipa ‘Couleur Cardinal’

Viburnum opulus ‘Compactum’

CHEERFUL YELLOWS

Achillea filipendulina ‘Gold Plate’

Anthemis tinctoria ‘E.C. Buxton’

Hemerocallis ‘Corky’

Kniphofia ‘Bees’ Lemon’

Mahonia × media ‘Winter Sun’

Meconopsis cambrica

Narcissus ‘Tête-à-Tête’

Rosa ‘Graham Thomas’

Trees

Planting a tree is often the easiest, most economical and

most successful way to create height in a garden. Of course,
it requires a little patience, but a suitable tree, thoughtfully
positioned, can be invaluable, providing not only a strong
focal point, but also screening, shelter, shade, perhaps
flowers and fruit to enjoy, and cover for wildlife. The right tree
can be important in achieving a particular design effect – for
example an acer in a Japanese garden – but remember it will
only be the right tree if it also suits its growing conditions.

Choosing a tree
Garden trees are a big investment, not so much in terms of cash
(true, they aren’t cheap – though a good tree will be worth every
penny) but because they will occupy precious garden space for a
long time to come. Choosing the right tree is therefore a major
decision. The tree needs to be happy in the conditions you can offer
it, and you must be happy to live with and look at that particular tree
365 days a year.
So, before you rush home from the garden centre with the prettiest
tree you could find there this week, here are a few things to think
about.

Size and spread

If space is limited, it is much better (for you and for the tree) to select
a variety that is naturally compact, rather than one that is going to
involve you in constant saw-and-secateur battles, or regular bills
from a tree surgeon, simply to keep it within its allotted place.
Winter tree shapes are endlessly intriguing. This unusual but short-lived tracery, caught in
perfect light conditions, belongs to Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Lace Lady’, clinging on to its
leaves after an early frost.

Growing conditions
Some types of tree will naturally be more tolerant of dry, chalky soil;
others won’t mind a windy boundary; and a problematic damp spot in
your garden will be meat and drink to some species. Finding out
which trees are likely to enjoy life with you is not only easy, but also
well worth the effort. A tree that is struggling with its growing
conditions will never be an asset, no matter how well it might suit the
style of your garden.
 Right tree, wrong place
Avoid planting certain trees in particular places. For example, you may live to
regret putting a thorny tree too close to where you walk or sit. And Morus
nigra (black mulberry) will stain paving (and clothes, and children!) with its
luscious but messy dark fruits. Some trees, such as some of the limes, attract
aphids that exude a sticky honeydew, which you will soon know all about if
you have to park your car under them.

Seasons of interest
For those of us with limited space, a tree that works hard to
contribute to the garden scene during two or three seasons of the
year will be a better investment than a tree that has gorgeous
blossom for one week and looks dull as ditchwater for the other 51.
So find out if it has attractive foliage, colourful berries, good autumn
tints or interesting bark in the winter months.

The Judas tree (Cercis siliquastrum) makes a fine feature for a sunny spot.
Living with trees
Some trees (most notoriously willows and poplars) have questing
roots that must not be allowed anywhere near buildings or drains.
Many other fast-growing woodland trees, such as sycamore and
beech, are almost as unsuitable for the average garden. Even some
popular garden trees are less than ideal. Robinia, for example, has
brittle branches that can snap off unannounced. Insurance
companies tend to disapprove of trees planted near buildings,
especially if they are of an unsuitable type. But as a general rule,
most ornamental garden trees are likely to be fine, as long you plant
them at least as far away from buildings as their expected mature
height.

The dazzling white bark of Betula utilis var. jacquemontii – a favourite tree for contemporary
gardens.
 Trees for a light canopy
People are often wary of planting a tree because of the shade it will cast, and
this is something worth thinking about when choosing. If you go for a tree with
a spreading canopy and dense foliage, it will have a severe impact on the
space around it and will affect what can be grown nearby. Beech is a
notorious example, and its roots are near the surface too, so hardly anything
will grow underneath. But you can avoid plunging your garden into gloom if
you choose a tree with an upright (fastigiate) habit and/or one with light, fern-
like foliage. There are quite a few good garden trees that fit the bill. Birches
tend to have light, delicate foliage and are also quite narrow. Rowans (Sorbus)
have slender, divided leaves and often an upright shape, so they don’t cast
much shade at all. Their berries come in various colours from pinkish white
(Sorbus hupehensis) through orange and red (Sorbus aucuparia and Sorbus
commixta) to golden (Sorbus ‘Joseph Rock’). Ginkgo and Gleditsia cast light
shade and are also worth considering, while for larger gardens, walnut, or ash
or one of its cultivars, are very reliable. Both come into leaf late, casting little
shade before midsummer – and by then you may be very glad of it. For a
waterside setting in a small garden, the compact, willow-like tree Pyrus
salicifolia ‘Pendula’ (see here) is an ideal choice. (See also here.)
Shrubs

As any garden design book will tell you, shrubs are the
backbone of a garden, vital for providing permanent height
and structure. Getting the right shrubs in the right places is
critical to a successful planting scheme so choosing and
siting them are big decisions. Fortunately, if you find you’ve
made a mistake, most young shrubs can be moved
successfully while they are dormant.

Different cultivars of dogwood offer a striking spectrum of winter stem colour – here, Cornus
alba ‘Sibirica’, underplanted with snowdrops.

Evergreen shrubs
Year-round structure in a garden usually relies on these, and they
are also much used for screening, shelter and ground cover. Their
main disadvantage is that, unlike their deciduous counterparts, most
of them don’t change much with the seasons, so it is best not to use
too many together. But as a backdrop to other planting they are
invaluable, and many of them are interesting enough to act as
specimen plants, either in a border or in pots. Some, such as
phormiums and yuccas (for a sunny place) or Fatsia japonica (for
shade), are splendid architectural plants in their own right. Others,
Viburnum davidii or Osmanthus heterophyllus for example, are
reliable stalwarts that belong in the supporting cast. Many
evergreens flower beautifully: you can grow rhododendrons and
camellias in acid soil; ceanothus, cistus and hebe if you have sun
and good drainage; mahonia and sarcococca for fragrant flowers to
cheer you in winter.

Surprisingly hardy, yuccas are among the boldest ‘statement’ shrubs.

Deciduous shrubs
Many deciduous shrubs are also grown for their flowers. This is all
very well for as long as the flowers last, but you will get much more
value from your shrubs if you choose from the many multi-taskers
that also contribute to the garden when they aren’t in flower. Luckily
this isn’t difficult. Some – in particular certain popular dogwoods –
have colourful winter bark. Others have been bred or selected by
growers for their coloured foliage (see here). Then there are shrubs
that produce spectacular autumn berries to keep you (or your garden
birds) happy well into winter.

Growing and pruning shrubs

Provided they are in a position and soil that suit them, and are
properly watered and fed, most shrubs are easy to maintain. Many
gardeners struggle with pruning, but remember that you aren’t
actually obliged to prune at all, and if you aren’t sure it may be better
to leave well alone. A basic knowledge of the whys and wherefores
of pruning, however, is useful because you will then know how to
tailor shrubs to the design of your garden, keeping them to the size
and shape you want. So get to know the principles and you will soon
understand why, when and how to prune.

Controlling size and shape

It’s usually best with shrubs to remove some branches completely
each year. This benefits the plant, thinning the growth to let in air and
light, and keeping the centre of the bush vigorous. Generally
speaking, reserve light trimming for hedges and topiary. Most
shrubs, if trimmed only lightly, will develop a surface covering of
foliage and a dead, woody centre. They lose their individual
character and look dull and artificial (not to say downright silly, in
extreme cases).

Encouraging growth and flowering

A grasp of basic pruning techniques will help you to get the best from
your plants. Many shrubs, for example, need to be encouraged to
keep producing new growth to perform well, and this is stimulated by
pruning. Some shrubs flower better on new branches, so they need
an annual pruning to keep them youthful and productive (buddleias,
roses, caryopteris). Likewise, many shrubs grown for their foliage
produce larger, brighter leaves on young growth (cotinus, ornamental
elders). This will be at the expense of flowering, but the upside is a
splendid foliage plant. Shrubs grown for colourful stems (certain
dogwoods, and ornamental brambles such as Rubus thibetanus)
have brighter bark colour on young wood. Some shrubs (daphnes,
sarcococca and other naturally compact evergreens) need no
pruning at all; others require removal of the oldest wood to keep
them reasonably young at heart.
Removing some of the tired old wood from a weigela in autumn to promote vigorous new
growth.
 Shrubs for colour
SHRUBS WITH RED/PURPLE/BRONZE FOLIAGE

Acer palmatum ‘Bloodgood’

Berberis thunbergii f. atropurpurea ‘Helmond Pillar’

Corylus maxima ‘Purpurea’

Cotinus coggygria ‘Royal Purple’

Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Diabolo’

Pittosporum tenuifolium ‘Tom Thumb’ (evergreen)

Salvia officinalis ‘Purpurascens’ (evergreen)

Sambucus nigra ‘Gerda’ (‘Black Beauty’)

Viburnum sargentii ‘Onondaga’

Weigela florida ‘Wine and Roses’

SHRUBS WITH GOLDEN/YELLOW FOLIAGE

Berberis thunbergii ‘Aurea’

Choisya ternata ‘Sundance’ (evergreen)

Cornus alba ‘Aurea’

Escallonia laevis ‘Gold Brian’ (evergreen)

Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ’n’ Gold’

Lonicera nitida ‘Baggesen’s Gold’ (evergreen)

Philadelphus coronarius ‘Aureus’

Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Dart’s Gold’

Rubus cockburnianus ‘Goldenvale’

Sambucus racemosa ‘Sutherland Gold’

Spiraea japonica ‘Goldflame’

Viburnum opulus ‘Aureum’

SHRUBS WITH SILVER/GREY FOLIAGE

Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’

Atriplex halimus (evergreen)

Brachyglottis (Dunedin Group) ‘Sunshine’ (evergreen)

Convolvulus cneorum (evergreen)

Elaeagnus ‘Quicksilver’

Hebe pinguifolia ‘Pagei’ (evergreen)

Helianthemum ‘Wisley White’ (evergreen)

Helichrysum italicum ‘Korma’ (evergreen)

Hippophae rhamnoides

Lavandula angustifolia ‘Imperial Gem’

Phlomis fruticosa (evergreen)

Santolina chamaecyparissus ‘Lemon Queen’ (evergreen)

Teucrium fruticans (evergreen)

Climbers

Climbers have a valuable role to play in all gardens, but they

are especially useful for packing in interest and flower power
where space is short. Grown over arches, arbours and
pergolas they make wonderful garden features, adding
height and seasonal colour (and often fragrance). You can
train a climber up a pole or an obelisk for an attractive
vertical focal point if there’s no space for a tree, and in
awkward spots it’s possible to grow less vigorous climbers in
containers.

Climbers as planting partners

Some climbers are never happier than when scrambling through
shrubs and up into trees, and they can even be planted in the same
hole as long as food and water are plentiful. Clematis are ideal for
this, as they like to flower in the sun but have their feet in the shade.
A vigorous flowering shrub such as a forsythia or a large
philadelphus is the perfect host, and the clematis flowers will stop
the shrub from looking dreary in its ‘off’ season.

Self-clinging climbers on walls

Areas of blank wall, especially in shade, cry out for planting to make
them more interesting. Some plants have adhesive pads or aerial
root hairs that enable them to climb up walls happily without you
having to wobble about on a ladder, rigging up support for them.
Provided the wall is perfectly sound, with no patches of crumbly
mortar or render, self-clinging climbers such as ornamental ivies,
Euonymus fortunei ‘Silver Queen’, or the climbing hydrangea
Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris will do no harm to the
structure. Keep them in check and prune them from time to time to
keep them well away from gutters, windows and roof tiles. To get
them started, fix the stems lightly to the wall with adhesive tape or
Blu-Tack®, or hold them in place with the unobtrusive plastic fixings
intended for electric and telephone cables. In dry weather, spray the
wall with water from time to time to help the plant adhere.

Clematis – king of climbers. There is one for every situation and season. If you have room
for only one, choose reliable, free-flowering forms such as Clematis ‘Warszawska Nike’,
which produces its gorgeous velvety blooms over many weeks in summer and autumn.
Train climbing roses horizontally to encourage them to flower well.

Wisterias need a lot of space and a lot of pruning – but when they are in the right place, and
well looked after, they’re in a class of their own. This one has a perfect setting near the
loggia at Wayford Manor, Somerset.
 Some climbers for pergolas
Clematis ‘Huldine’ The pearly-white flowers of this vigorous and sun-loving
summer-flowering clematis look best when viewed from below with the sun
behind to show up their attractive pinkish undersides – so it’s perfect for
pergolas. C. ‘Huldine’ is also a good companion for roses, honeysuckle and
other climbers. Cut the plant hard back in late winter for the best display the
following summer.

Cobaea scandens This tender annual is a good bet for a new pergola in its
first year, while you wait for permanent planting to establish. If you sow seed
in early spring and keep the plants frost-free until the weather is warm enough
to plant them out, they will race away, and by late summer your pergola will be
dripping with subtle purple bell-shaped flowers that will last until autumn
frosts.

Rosa ‘Adélaïde d’Orléans’ Good foliage, abundant creamy-white flowers

and lax stems that are easy to tie in make this delicately fragrant old-
fashioned rambler rose a good plant for a romantic pergola. It combines well
with blue or purple clematis such as the free-flowering Clematis ‘Étoile
Violette’ or the old favourite C. ‘Jackmanii’.

Wisteria sinensis A good wisteria can turn a large, stout pergola or a

spacious house wall into a classic set-piece for a traditional garden. Its
plentiful, fragrant, hanging flower trusses are a delight to sit under in early
summer, and the foliage stays attractive all season. Wisteria buds break quite
late, which means they don’t blot out too much spring sunshine but you have
the benefit of shade when you really need it, in midsummer. Make sure the
pergola is tall enough for the hanging flowers to be above head height, and be
prepared for a vigorous pruning job twice a year when the plant is mature.
Wisterias on a house wall should be tied in to horizontal wires secured by vine
eyes fixed into the wall.

See also here.

 Climbing roses
There’s nothing like a climbing rose – especially if it’s scented – to catch the
mood of an old-fashioned country garden. Some of them have only a short
flowering season, so partner them with another climber, such as a clematis or
jasmine, to keep the interest going. For maximum flowering, train the rose so
it makes a permanent framework of horizontal stems. The aim is to expose
them to the sun, which will help them to ripen and flower well. Fix wires along
a wall or fence; for a pillar, pergola or arbour train the young stems in a spiral
round and round the post and then along the top of the structure. Tie them in
with soft green or brown twine that won’t cut into the soft stems as they grow,
and trim off unwanted stems. Flowers will appear on side-shoots, and should
be dead-headed as soon as they fade – some go brown and continue to cling
to the shoots, spoiling the display. Reliable, fragrant climbers include: Rosa
‘Compassion’ (peach-pink) below top, R. ‘Golden Showers’ (yellow) and R.
‘Madame Alfred Carrière’ (pink-tinged white) below bottom.
Herbaceous perennials

This is the most versatile plant group in the garden

designer’s palette, offering long-lasting plants for every
season, purpose, colour scheme and mood. Whether you are
looking for an elegant ‘statement’ plant or ground cover,
something to feed the birds in winter or a reliable source of
cut flowers for the house, there will always be a herbaceous
perennial to fit the bill.

What are herbaceous perennials?

Strictly speaking, all plants that go on from year to year, including
shrubs and trees, are perennials. Among gardeners in temperate
climates, however, the terms ‘herbaceous plant’ and ‘perennial’ are
used to mean non-woody plants with stems and leaves that die back
to ground level in autumn, leaving a rootstock that remains alive to
produce new growth next year.
Check over your herbaceous perennials in early spring, dividing any congested clumps like
this kniphofia. Re-plant small healthy pieces in improved soil.

Using perennials
The herbaceous border, that stalwart of the English garden, has
become rather a thing of the past, with its need for high maintenance
to keep it looking its best through many months of the year. In its
place we have the mixed border, which is a much more practical,
varied and long-lasting tapestry of plants of different kinds, with
interest for every season. Herbaceous perennials play an important
part in this kind of planting, complementing shrubs, bulbs and
perhaps annuals too, in a variety of ways. They provide reliable
‘furnishing’ for the spaces between, or in front of, shrubs, and at
ground level they disguise the dying foliage of spring bulbs and keep
the soil covered to discourage weeds and retain moisture. They
provide seasonal accents of colour from spring to autumn, many of
them have interesting foliage, and some have attractive, architectural
skeletons that will enhance the garden over winter, remaining in
place until cut down in spring.
A planting design always looks stronger if you use groups of plants
rather than single ones, and this applies particularly to perennials. It
is often recommended that they are planted in groups of three or
five. In many cases it’s easy to increase your stock by splitting
clumps up (see photograph here), and in this way you will have a
supply that enables you to repeat groups of your tried and tested
favourites in different places. Such deliberate repetition will help to
give coherence and unity to your planting scheme.

Growing perennials
Most perennials are relatively easy to grow in reasonable soil, and
as there is such a wide choice, if one plant doesn’t seem to like your
garden it won’t be difficult to find something broadly similar to try
instead. The pot-grown perennials you find in garden centres can be
planted at any time of year, provided they are watered well if the
weather is dry.
Perennials aren’t just for summer. This dark hellebore, a choice late winter flower, is a very
good partner for snowdrops.

Maintenance is fairly light if you steer clear of perennials that are

too vigorous and remember to stake tall plants, such as delphiniums,
early in the season. Work through each border once a year – early
spring is a good time – so you can split up clumps that are getting
too large, or that are dying off in the middle. Simply lift the clump and
either pull it apart into individual crowns or chop it vertically into
pieces with a sharp spade, making sure that each little clump has
some healthy young shoots emerging from it. Refresh the soil by
adding some compost, and replant the best divisions. Keep the
border weed-free: mulching with compost or fine chipped bark in
winter or early spring will help with this, and feed the plants too. The
only other requirement is that you cut down the stems after
flowering. This keeps the border looking fresh, and will also
encourage some perennials to flower again.

Star performers
Easy but interesting to propagate, herbaceous perennials have long
attracted the passion of enthusiasts up and down the land. As a
result there are literally thousands of different cultivars to choose
from. Some plant groups, such as hostas, peonies, heucheras, irises
and daylilies, could single-handedly fill several gardens, such is the
bewildering variety of different forms. Some of these are almost
indistinguishable from one another, but others really stand out from
the crowd. In designing gardens it’s invaluable to get to know the
forms that are ‘good doers’ because these will really earn their
space, while others, however beautiful, may grow half-heartedly and
never make a real impact. A good guide to the best performers is the
RHS Award of Garden Merit (see here). This award scheme applies
to all plants, not just perennials, but it is particularly useful for telling
the sheep from the goats in this very large group.
 A dozen ‘good doers’
Acanthus spinosus

Achillea filipendulina ‘Gold Plate’

Anemone × hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’

Aster × frikartii ‘Mönch’ (below bottom)

Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii

Geranium psilostemon

Geranium ‘Rozanne’

Hemerocallis ‘Corky’

Iris sibirica ‘Butter and Sugar’

Penstemon ‘Andenken an Friedrich Hahn’

Pulmonaria ‘Lewis Palmer’

Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’ (below top)

 The Award of Garden Merit (AGM)
This scheme is operated by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) to help
identify the best plants for all-round value in the garden. The award is given to
certain plants after RHS assessment and trials have shown them to be of
good constitution, easy to grow, and not too susceptible to pests and
diseases. AGM plants are identified by a special ‘cup’ symbol , sometimes
used on plant labels, and all can be found in the RHS Plant Finder, which is
available online or annually in book form.

Annuals and biennials

Among the best sources of bright summer colour, annuals

and biennials can be relied upon to keep the show going
when perennials are taking time out. These wonderful seed-
grown plants include many old garden favourites – foxgloves,
forget-me-nots, poppies, wallflowers, marigolds and sweet
peas – as well as plants that produce some of the most
attractive seedheads, such as honesty and love-in-a-mist
(see also here). Short-lived they may be, but gardens simply
wouldn’t be the same without them.

Growing annuals and biennials

This large category is divided into several groups for growing
purposes. Hardy and half-hardy annuals usually grow from seed,
flower, produce seed, and die – all in the same year. Biennials take
two, or even three, growing seasons for the same process. And
sometimes certain tender perennials are treated as annuals, since
they are invariably killed by autumn frosts.
Sarah Raven’s cutting garden at Perch Hill in spring. Wallflowers – biennials grown from
seed the previous year – provide colour and fragrance for garden and house.

Hardy annuals can be sown outdoors where they are to flower,

either in spring or in some cases in autumn, to get a head start.
Some of them self-seed once established, leaving you to remove
any surplus self-sown seedlings (see here). Half-hardy annuals are
so called because they can’t stand cold weather. Sow them in pots
and bring them on in a frost-free place, gradually hardening them off
so you can plant out after the last frost.
Love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena) is one of those useful, welcome self-seeding annuals
that pop up unexpectedly every year, yet it is seldom in the wrong place. Its seed-heads are
as pretty as its flowers.

Biennials such as sweet williams and wallflowers are often sown in

the vegetable plot in early summer, then thinned and grown on until
autumn, when they should be big enough to move to the flower bed.
Again, some of them – foxgloves and honesty for example – are
adept self-sowers. You can always move the seedlings to where you
want them to flower (although they will often have a better idea).

Using annuals
Some annuals, such as cosmos, zinnias and antirrhinums, will soon
make large, statuesque plants that are ideal for filling the gaps when
early perennials have finished. Plant breeders are producing more
and more dwarf versions of familiar annuals, which are good for
patio pots, but in mixed borders it is best to go for larger plants, and
fewer of them, as this looks more natural. Some gardeners still enjoy
‘bedding out’ – using nothing but annuals in the style of old-
fashioned public parks – to create the traditional ‘riot of colour’ from
early summer until the first frosts.
Using biennials
Biennials such as forget-me-nots and wallflowers (traditionally grown
with tulips) can also be used for bedding, neatly filling the period
after earlier spring bulbs have finished. Sweet williams are good for
cutting, too, and they look great in rows – brightening a vegetable
garden or featuring in a dedicated cutting garden. Foxgloves,
honesty, sweet rocket and other more informal biennials are good for
wild areas, or to precede summer perennials in a border, where their
lush late-spring foliage will conveniently mask the unsightly leaves of
dying bulbs.

Early summer annuals and biennials at Perch Hill (see here): Iceland poppies (Papaver
nudicaule), California poppies (Eschscholzia californica) and white foxgloves.
Don’t forget

Plants of many kinds bloom for longer if their spent flowerheads

are removed, but deadheading is particularly important in
prolonging the life of annuals such as sweet peas, marigolds and
petunias. An annual plant’s aim in life is to flower and set seed to
reproduce itself, but if you frustrate its attempts to do this by
removing dead flowers, seeds can’t form, and it will just keep on
trying by continuing to throw out new flowers.

Climbers from seed

Annuals that climb make quick, colourful cover for garden structures such as
arches and pergolas while you wait for permanent planting to mature and take
their place. They are useful for creating height in a border, trained up a
decorative obelisk or an informal wigwam of tall twigs. Sweet peas and
nasturtiums are probably the most familiar annual climbers, but several others
are readily available such as Cobaea scandens, morning glory (see here) – a
sun-lover that produces beautiful sky-blue trumpets every morning in late
summer – and Canary creeper, with its unusual toothed yellow flowers.
Climbers such as the Chilean glory flower Eccremocarpus scaber (below) or
the flamboyant Ipomoea lobata, are ideal for an (almost) instant touch of the
exotic, with their hot colours, quick growth and enthusiastic response to a
warm summer.
Bulbs

Bulbs take some beating. They’re colourful, economical on

space, easy to grow and relatively cheap. They give quick
results and may well go on for years, multiplying to make a
dazzling seasonal impact, with plenty left over to lift and plant
elsewhere in your garden or pass on to your friends and
relations. The most familiar bulbs flower in spring, and colour
is never more welcome than at this time. But don’t neglect
the more unusual ones that flower later in the year.

The season’s barely started, but with cyclamen, chionodoxas and hellebores there’s no
shortage of colour.
Tulips and wallflowers are a classic pairing – here, Tulipa ‘Dillenburg’ with Erysimum
latifolium.

Bulbs in borders
Many spring bulbs make perfect partners for herbaceous plants in
borders, providing cheerful colour amidst the young foliage of the
awakening perennials. But when you’re thinking about what to
partner with what, do consider how the bulbs will look when they
have just finished flowering and are at their tattiest. Eventually, of
course, they will become dormant and you can forget about them
until next season, but in the meantime how do you avoid having to
look at their unlovely dying leaves? Whatever you do, don’t cut them
off yet. It’s fine to pick off the dead flowerheads, but the fading
leaves and stem will feed and fatten the bulb so it can flower again
next year. A good tip is to partner bulbs with a deciduous shrub or a
perennial that will be coming into strong growth just in time to hide
the dying foliage. If you’re clever you can arrange it so that the new
leaves of the companion plant complement the bulbs’ flowers – try
orange tulips with a purple elder (Sambucus nigra ‘Eva’) or the dark-
leaved Geranium pratense ‘Black Beauty’; or partner deep blue
hyacinths, Anemone blanda or scillas with golden-leaved plants – for
example Philadelphus coronarius ‘Aureus’.
Bulbs in grass
Big daffodils are usually the first victims of spring gales and rains.
Even if they come through those unscathed, they look messy for
weeks after flowering and you find yourself itching to mow them
down too soon. Instead, go for a low, carpeting effect, with drifts of
the smaller varieties of narcissi and other early-flowering little bulbs,
which will shine jewel-like in the early spring sunshine, then die off
politely without causing any untidiness. Many will self-sow over the
years, creating a natural-looking tapestry in the grass. Crocuses are
a familiar example but the petals open only when the sun shines,
and the birds and mice do love them. Anemone blanda – blue, white
or pink – makes quite an impression and has pretty, ferny foliage.
For a reliable haze of blue in any weather, even in partial shade,
choose one of the various kinds of scilla and chionodoxa.

The delicate snakeshead fritillary (Fritillaria meleagris) – wonderful for naturalizing in damp
grassland.

To give your little spring bulbs the best possible setting, keep
mowing until late autumn so the grass is short enough not to drown
them when they’re in flower. If you need to mow in winter, remember
to avoid the areas where the bulbs are.

Bulbs in containers
A packet of bulbs planted in an attractive pot will probably cost you
less than a bunch of flowers and is certain to last longer. Feed and
keep them watered for a while after flowering, and many kinds will
give you a second or third year’s display without repotting.
Pots of bulbs near doorways or just outside windows are lovely at
any time of year. They can be put in place at just the right moment
for you to enjoy the flowers as they open, then replaced with
something else when past their best. For late winter try Cyclamen
coum, early varieties of snowdrop or Iris ‘Harmony’ in a warm, sunny
place. A little later come the early, bright miniature daffodils such as
Narcissus ‘Tête-à-tête’ or Narcissus ‘Jack Snipe’. For a wider range
of colours, choose hyacinths or tulips, generously planted in groups
of at least 10 or 15, to fill the container. Pack them in closely for
greater effect, but don’t let the bulbs quite touch each other.
 Autumn-flowering bulbs
Colchicum speciosum ‘Album’ Huge pure white goblets make this a truly
choice plant. Partner it, and all colchicums, with something to disguise the
conspicuous leaves as they die off in spring.

Colchicum ‘Waterlily’ There’s nothing to match this exotic double-flowered

pink starlet if the weather is kind and the setting right.

Crocus speciosus Similar to their spring counterparts, these lavender

crocuses are a welcome surprise when they suddenly flower, usually after a
spell of early autumn rain.

Cyclamen hederifolium Tolerant of surprisingly harsh conditions, these

easiest of cyclamens have lovely marbled foliage for months after they flower,
so they’re hugely valuable in winter. Look for the curious, curly seedheads,
too.

Nerine bowdenii Large sugar-pink, frilly flowers in late autumn aren’t what
you expect. This sun-loving bulb is unrivalled for late-season ‘wow factor’
against a warm wall.

Sternbergia lutea Yellow crocus-like flowers to brighten autumn days make

this slightly tricky plant worth growing if you can get it to flower. It likes light
soil and dislikes overcrowding, so split up the clumps from time to time.

For summer pots, tubs and borders there are lilies (such as
fragrant Lilium regale), gladioli, and the remarkable Galtonia
candicans, a sort of tall, white, summer-flowering hyacinth. When
planting bulbs in containers, choose large ones filled with a soil-
based compost so they don’t get top-heavy.
FOCUS ON Screening

For a garden to be the secluded haven of your dreams, it

must at least create the illusion of being a place apart, a
beautiful retreat where the outside world seems far away.
Your outdoor space can be enclosed by fences and hedges
up to a certain height, but you may need to adopt specific
tactics when you want to blot out taller intrusive features.

Screening with trees

A thoughtfully positioned tree can be ideal for screening, but first
there are careful choices to be made. You don’t want to wait patiently
for the tree to be tall enough to do its job, only to wish you’d chosen
something else.
 Trees and shrubs for screening
Ceanothus ‘Concha’

Crataegus × lavalleei ‘Carrierei’ (below)

Crataegus persimilis ‘Prunifolia’

Phyllostachys nigra

Prunus cerasifera

Think twice before you plant an evergreen tree to make your

garden more private. Sometimes, when you have a difficult
screening problem to solve, evergreens are the only answer, but
they do have their disadvantages. Mature evergreen trees block out
not only the unwanted views but also the sky and the sunlight, all
year round, and they severely limit what you can grow beneath their
canopy. Some evergreens look much the same all year, so choose
one that will offer seasonal variety. This might include berries (holly
or yew), catkins (evergreen oak) or interesting cones (Abies
koreana). Prunus lusitanica, the Portugal laurel, is mostly seen as a
shrub or hedging plant, but it makes a good bushy tree, laden with
fragrant, fluffy cream flower spikes in late spring. Arbutus unedo, the
strawberry tree, is unusual in having flowers and fruits at the same
time, with attractive bark as a further bonus.
Often a deciduous tree is a better bet, letting in precious sunshine
in winter when privacy in the garden may be less important, while
giving welcome shade and leaf cover in summer. However, some
trees, such as apple, walnut or ash, come into leaf relatively late,
while others, such as horse-chestnut, lose their leaves early in the
autumn. If screening is important, choose something that has a long
season of leaf cover, or that blossoms before the leaves open,
extending the tree’s season of useful screening. Think about the
shape of the tree, too. One with a low, spreading canopy may give
better protection from a neighbouring window (though it will cast
more shade), while a tall, slender tree (see here) may be more
effective in blotting out an eyesore such as a phone mast without
excluding too much light.

Plants for screening. The black stems of Phyllostachys nigra make a good feature in
contemporary gardens.
 Prunus cerasifera ‘Nigra’ blossoms early in the year.

Yew hedging topped with a rambler rose makes a secluded retreat.

Structures for screening

Even for the most patient, there may come a time when you need
some screening and you need it now. This often happens when an
extension or new building springs up on a neighbouring plot, and you
suddenly lose your view or are overlooked by new windows. Buying
mammoth shrubs and trees to restore calm is certainly possible, but
they will cost an arm and a leg (and a lot of grey hairs worrying about
whether they are going to establish successfully). A pergola or trellis
may be a much better option, giving a measure of screening
straightaway, with cover improving all the time as plants grow to
clothe it. To prevent a seating area from being overlooked by an
upstairs window, an overhead pergola with the beams set fairly close
together is probably the best solution.
Climbers creating cover. A climber such as this white-flowered solanum will make a living
‘roof’, providing shade and privacy for alfresco dining.
 Just standing under a pergola clad with the vigorous and reliable Clematis ‘Perle d’Azur’
is pure joy.

Don’t forget

If you are trying to block out something large, always position

screening, such as trellis panels, close to your own viewpoint –
rather than immediately in front of the offending object.
 Shrubs as trees
Plant a shrub that will grow big enough to hide an unsightly feature, and it
takes up half your flower border. Plant a tree, and you may well find that within
a few years you have blocked out not only your neighbour’s washing, as
intended, but also your sunshine and your view. The choice of trees that can
easily be kept compact is limited, but some shrubs can be pruned to behave
like trees. Just remove the side shoots gradually, from the bottom up, as the
plant grows. That way you have the best of both worlds: your privacy, and
planting space underneath. Try it with these:

Cornus mas Very early, delicate golden flowers in spring, and good autumn
leaf colour, make this an asset to any garden. The variegated form is worth
finding if you can.

Cotinus coggygria Any variety of this familiar foliage shrub makes a good
bronze- or purple-leaved specimen as a shrub or small tree.

Euonymus Spindles such as Euonymus europaeus and Euonymus planipes

make nice little trees with good autumn colour, and the curious fruits can be
seen near eye level.

Sambucus There is a whole range of ornamental elders – variegated, cut-

leaved, golden and purple – with one for every planting scheme. They are
usually pruned hard to encourage vigorous foliage, but they will make a
decent tree if you remove young shoots from the base of the plant.

Viburnum rhytidophyllum Usually seen as an enormous, rather dull shrub,

this evergreen comes into its own as a multi-stemmed tree, exposing the
felted undersides of the bold, crinkly leaves as well as the attractive russet
bark. Its striking swags of shiny red and black berries are anything but dull,
but it needs a partner to bear fruit.
Hedges

Versatile, long-lived and beneficial to wildlife, a well-planted

hedge is a joy forever – well, for quite a long time. Planting
hedges involves a short spell of hard work and then a degree
of patience while they get established, but the end result will
justify the investment many times over. Whether you want a
simple screen or a thorny barrier – plant a hedge.

The base of a hedge can be a ‘dead space’, where weeds can easily gain a foothold. The
problem has been solved here with a planting of trouble-free purple dog violets (Viola
riviniana Purpurea Group).
Copper beech is excellent if you want a hedge that changes with the seasons. The young
foliage, almost coral, gradually settles to a deep bronze-purple, which gives way to russet
tones in winter.

Plants for hedging

Buxus sempervirens (box) Less popular than it used to be owing to
the increasingly widespread disease box blight, box has always been
one of the traditional plants for formal evergreen hedges, and it is
very good in shade. A slow-growing form, Buxus sempervirens
‘Suffruticosa’, is the classic dwarf hedging used to edge beds, and
for knot gardens. It’s very easy to root from cuttings if you need a lot
of it. When buying box, first inspect the plants closely and look out
for leaves that have turned brown, a symptom of box blight. With
established box, sometimes whole branches die off, especially in
damp weather. Cut off affected parts and burn them. Euonymus
japonicus ‘Microphyllus’ is a good substitute.
Fagus sylvatica (beech) Though deciduous, beech hedging
provides cover for most of the year, keeping its dead leaves until
early spring. It is lovely when the fresh green leaves break a few
weeks later. Carpinus betulus (hornbeam) is similar to beech, but
better in heavy soil.
 Ilex crenata ‘Convexa’ You would probably never guess, but this is
a kind of holly. Tiny, rounded evergreen leaves and small black
berries make it look more like box, and – if you can find it – it is a
good alternative hedging.
Lonicera nitida This familiar small-leaved evergreen works well for
hedges up to about 1.2m (4ft) but tends to flop if you let it get much
higher. It grows fast and needs clipping once a month in summer. If it
gets out of hand, it will respond to hard cutting back.
Phillyrea angustifolia A bushy broadleaved evergreen, related to
the olive, this is another good alternative to box if box blight is a
problem (see, here).
Taxus baccata (yew) This is the king of hedging, and not as slow-
growing as people think. It makes a sleek, dark green, slender hedge
– a flattering formal backdrop for any planting scheme – and it only
needs clipping once a year (late summer is best). It can usually be
renovated by cutting back, however old the plants. Two
disadvantages: it isn’t good on very damp soil, and it is poisonous to
livestock.
Thuja plicata (western red cedar) This makes an attractive
evergreen hedge rather similar in style to the notoriously rampant
leylandii (x Cupressocyparis leylandii) but more manageable. Unlike
leylandii it will re-sprout after cutting back if it becomes too large. It
needs clipping twice a year, once in spring and again in late summer.
 Sshhh!

Unless you have hedges of enormous size, try to clip them with hand shears
rather than a power trimmer. Tackle the job in two or three sessions if it seems
like hard work, but for the average garden hedge, light, sharp, modern shears
aren’t arduous to use and they are much less antisocial – and greener – than
the noisy (and often unnecessary) alternative. They also give a cleaner cut,
reducing the risk of introducing disease through crushed plant tissue. And
you’ll be able to hear the birds singing while you do it.

Restoring a hedge
You can renovate old, thin or misshapen hedges of native plants such as yew,
hawthorn, holly, privet and hazel with good results. Cut back one side at a
time over two winters (spring is better for evergreens) and you will have a
good, thick hedge again far sooner than if you had planted from scratch. Many
conifers, such as the giant × Cupressocyparis leylandii and the similar
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana, will not tolerate hard pruning at all, and it’s better
to remove them if they have got out of hand.

HOW TO plant a hedge

Order bare-rooted hedging plants of your chosen variety. Plant on a dry day from late
autumn to early spring when the soil isn’t frozen or waterlogged. Begin by stretching a line
between two or more posts to mark the position of the hedge.

Dig a trench about 30cm (12in) deep and wide, breaking up the soil at the bottom with a
fork. Add compost and a slow-release fertilizer to the soil you have just removed and then
also to the base of the trench.

Space the plants along the line in a single row, 30–50cm (12–20in) apart. For a very high
hedge the plants will need more room to grow, so give each one enough space by setting
them out in a staggered row farther apart – up to 60cm (24in).
Fill in the trench with the mixture of topsoil and compost, firm with your foot, and water in
well to settle the roots. To encourage the new hedge to thicken from the base, cut all the
plants back to 15cm (6in) after planting.

Native hedging
Gardeners and farmers are now choosing to plant mixed native hedges
because they are so good for wildlife. These hedges provide nesting sites and
winter berries for birds, and habitats for insects, as well as interest for people.
Native hedging is usually bought as small, inexpensive bare-rooted plants in
winter, when they are dormant. You can buy these by mail order – look in
gardening magazines or online – and plant immediately unless the ground is
frozen. Typical species might include:
Acer campestre (field maple)
Cornus sanguinea (dogwood)
Crataegus monogyna (hawthorn)
Euonymus europaeus (spindle)
Ligustrum vulgare (wild privet)
Prunus spinosa (blackthorn)
Rhamnus cathartica (buckthorn)
Viburnum lantana (wayfaring tree)
Viburnum opulus (guelder rose)
FOCUS ON Creating height

The third dimension, height, is sometimes neglected in

garden design, but without it a garden can so easily be flat
and dull. It’s important to include taller features, whether
plants or structures, to give the garden more variety and a
sense of scale. Vertical growing also increases your available
planting space and creates lots of opportunities for extra
plant colour and interest.

Pergolas
A plant-covered pergola is one of the most effective design devices
you can add to a garden to create height. It can also fulfil other
design functions: giving a sense of enclosure to a seating area, or a
strong feeling of direction if it spans a path; adding a focal point or a
full stop; blotting out an unwanted view; linking a house with its
garden; or blurring the distinction between man-made structure and
natural planting. (See also here.)

Arbours
Usually an intimate structure clothed with climbing plants and
sheltering a seat, an arbour is a very traditional concept, harking
back to romantic trysts in medieval gardens. Arbours are usually
constructed from metal or wood – normally timber, either rustic or
sawn – but sometimes from living willow or woven hurdles, or even
carved out of an evergreen hedge. An arbour offers great scope for
creativity and originality, in the structure itself and in the plants you
use to furnish it. Beautiful and functional in both traditional and
contemporary settings, arbours work perfectly in even the smallest
garden, both as a secluded retreat that defines a separate little
space and as an inviting focal point.
Arches
An arch is used to frame an entrance, leading into the garden itself
perhaps, or from one part of it to another. Arches should be
positioned where they will create an element of surprise – what lies
beyond? A freestanding arch in the middle of a garden never looks
quite right. Use it in tandem with an opening in a hedge or fence, a
door or gateway, or a gap in the planting to either side of it, and it will
make much more sense. An arch can also be used to frame a mirror
to give the illusion of more space, but this trick does need to be
staged very carefully to be effective, and is essential to have plenty
of planting around it to distract the eye from the mechanics.

Obelisks
An obelisk is a versatile, incidental means of creating height – either
as a single focal point or as one of a series. An obelisk is a
reasonably quick way of giving scale and shape to a border where a
tree would create unwanted shade or be too dominant. Obelisks can
be solid or open, and may or may not support climbing plants. In a
small garden an obelisk can be a valuable means of emphasizing
height, especially if clothed with greenery, without using much lateral
space. An obelisk as a plant support can be used to top a large
container, planted with a flowering climber, or with clipped ivy or box
for a more formal effect.
A tree can eventually be a host for climbers such as roses and clematis – but will require
patience.
An obelisk is a better option where height and structure are needed quickly.
 Plants for adding height
SLENDER TREES

Carpinus betulus ‘Fastigiata’

Fagus sylvatica ‘Dawyck’

Prunus ‘Spire’

Pyrus calleryana ‘Chanticleer’

Sorbus aucuparia ‘Fastigiata’

UPRIGHT SHRUBS

Berberis thunbergii f. atropurpurea ‘Helmond Pillar’

Buddleja davidii ‘Black Knight’

Ilex aquifolium ‘Pyramidalis’

Juniperus communis ‘Hibernica’

Mahonia × media cultivars

Phyllostachys nigra

Rosa ‘Geranium’

Taxus baccata ‘Fastigiata’

Tall and slender plants. Taxus baccata ‘Fastigiata’ and Fagus sylvatica ‘Dawyck
Purple’. For vertical emphasis in a border, try perennials such as Verbena bonariensis. and
Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ .

Poles
This simple means of supporting a climber is also a cheap and
effective way of creating height. The pole needs to be stout, made of
either hardwood or pressure-treated softwood, and well anchored
into the ground. Stain it black if you want it to be unobtrusive. Then
plant a climber such as a clematis, honeysuckle or climbing rose at
its foot, tying it in as it grows.

Vertical planting
More than any other single feature, a tree makes a real difference to
a garden, providing its own unique combination of height, shade,
restful greenery and wildlife habitat. You should never need to ask
yourself whether you should plant a tree in your garden, even if it is a
small space. As long as you’ve done your homework and choose
wisely, the answer will always be yes, and more than one if space
allows. A number of tree cultivars tend to have an upright shape (see
here) and are worth considering if space is at a premium.
 In a border, if you are seeking height without bulk, there are
several obliging shrubs (see here), or you could grow a climber on a
pole or obelisk. There are also many herbaceous plants and grasses
that have a clear emphasis on the vertical (see also here).
Foxgloves, lupins, verbascums and Eremurus (foxtail lilies) have
colourful, upright flower spikes, while good cultivars of Calamagrostis
and Miscanthus are useful tall grasses with a relatively small
footprint.
Vegetables by design

Now that kitchen gardening has become quite – well – chic,

it’s strange to think that not so many years ago vegetables
were regarded as the poor relations of the garden. In grand
gardens they were hidden away as though they were a real
blot on the landscape, far from the house and preferably in a
walled enclosure so they didn’t spoil the view. Now, thank
goodness, all that has changed. Your own fresh, tasty
organically grown vegetables form an integral part of the
garden and are something to be really proud of.

A well-planned vegetable garden needn’t be sophisticated. Simple, timber-edged raised

beds are an easy way to start. Don’t forget to include a place to sit and admire your crops.
Inspired colour scheming in the potager at West Green House. The palette here includes
runner beans, red brassicas, sweet peas and Cerinthe major ‘Purpurascens’.

A kitchen garden
Vegetable growing can be highly decorative, as in the classic
potager, but you don’t need an acre and a crack team of garden
designers to plan your vegetable patch with an artistic eye. Even if
you don’t go for the all-out ornamental approach, don’t neglect
design concerns at the planning stage. As with any other piece of
garden design, start with a good framework and strong lines. A
kitchen garden must, above all, be practical. Sunshine, easy access
and good soil are essential, and you will need water (butts or a tap)
and compost bins close by. A cold frame for seedlings is also worth
finding room for, if you can. Many successful vegetable growers use
a system of intensive, dedicated beds. These can be raised (see
here) or at ground level, with or without an edging of timber, bricks,
stones, tiles, miniature hurdles, plants or anything you fancy. The soil
in the beds should be cultivated to a good depth and improved with
lots of compost at the outset.
 Whatever the shape of the beds, and whether they are edged or
not, keep them narrow so that you can reach the middle from either
side without stepping on the soil, to avoid compaction. This means a
maximum width of about 1.2m (4ft). Plants in these beds can be
grown closer together, leaving less scope for weeds; and instead of
arduous winter digging every year you just fork over the soil between
successive crops and spread more compost on the beds.
The permanent paths in between can be made from compacted
earth, grass, old bricks or paving slabs, shingle or chipped bark.
Paths don’t need to be very wide, normally 50–60cm (20–24in) will
be enough, but you may like to make at least one main path of 90cm
(3ft), which will be wide enough to negotiate with a full wheelbarrow.

You can create an attractively designed composition with vegetable plants even in a tiny
space. Here, chillies of different colours and shapes, in pots in a sunny courtyard.

Planning your planting

At the start of each season it’s worth spending time planning where
your crops are to go. Make a note of where you plant each crop each
year, setting up a system of rotation to get the best out of your soil
and prevent a build-up of crop-specific pests and diseases. Within
that, consider what is most convenient. For example, vegetables that
need frequent watering could be positioned close to a water butt.
The ones you’ll be picking more or less daily, such as beans,
courgettes or tomatoes, could be next to a path, and herbs such as
parsley and chives close to the kitchen for hurried forays when
you’re cooking.

Crop protection
Vegetable crops attract a range of notorious pests, from aphids to
wood pigeons. You can keep many of these unwelcome visitors
away by covering your crops, but modern crop-protection materials
can be unattractive and hard to disguise in an ornamental garden.
A bed system enables you to cover each bed individually – with
cloches, fleece, netting or whatever is appropriate – at vulnerable
times. Use black fruit-cage netting to keep pigeons, sparrows and
blackbirds off their favourite targets: brassicas, peas, beetroot,
ripening strawberries and many more. If you stretch netting taut over
a neatly made framework of canes or hoops, its visual impact will be
minimal. Reflective materials such as foil or unwanted CDs, hung
from string so that they flash and twinkle in the wind, are a temporary
deterrent. Traditional solutions include an old-fashioned scarecrow –
doubling as a garden sculpture – or thorny twigs pushed into the
ground to deter birds, cats and other animals. Companion planting,
which many gardeners swear by, is a decorative way to keep certain
pests at bay.

Potagers
If you want to take your kitchen garden into a different league, you can create
a potager or ornamental kitchen garden. There are some very beautiful and
ambitious examples to visit for inspiration, but a small back-garden potager
can simply be an appealing arrangement of beds and paths, built with
pleasing materials and thoughtfully planted with a mixture of vegetables, fruit,
herbs and flowers. A seating area, perhaps with some plants in attractive pots,
is a bonus, and the potager will feel even more satisfactory if you add
permanent height in the form of trained soft fruit, well-maintained espalier fruit
trees or a vine pergola.
 Good companions
Cottage gardeners of old often mixed vegetables, herbs and fruit with flowers
in the garden. Whereas for them it was usually a question of adding flowers to
the vegetable patch, which provided much of their basic food, in today’s small
gardens we are more likely to be squeezing a few vegetables into our flower
borders. This can work well. The dense planting helps keep the soil moist and
weed-free, and growing a mixture of plants together helps to control pests and
diseases. As with flower borders, plan interesting combinations of different
colours, shapes and textures. Below, globe artichokes are backed by
foxgloves and Rosa × odorata ‘Mutabilis’. Catmint lines the path.

The prettiest vegetables?

While kitchen gardening enthusiasts would stoutly maintain that all
vegetables are beautiful, it would be fair to say that, as ornamental
plants, some have more going for them than others. This may be
partly to do with how easy it is to keep them looking smart. Below is
a selection of vegetables – some for each season – that will hold
their own in an ornamental garden, be it a potager or a flower border.

BEANS Summer Climbing beans score points because they lend

valuable height to a garden scheme and can be grown on
ornamental structures such as obelisks. They also have colour, from
runner beans with scarlet or scarlet-and-white flowers, to climbing
French beans with golden or purple pods.
Unusual kinds of beetroot to try include ‘Chioggia’, an old Italian variety that when sliced
reveals concentric pink and white rings.

BEETROOT Summer/autumn Beetroot is a good dual-purpose

vegetable, useful for its young leaves, which are decorative and tasty
in salads, and for its roots, of course. Purple beets are familiar but
there are also orange varieties.

Purple-sprouting broccoli helps furnish the kitchen garden all through winter, with delicious
shoots to look forward to in spring.
BRASSICAS Winter Well-grown plants of a mixture of brassicas –
red cabbage, Brussels sprouts, purple-sprouting broccoli and crinkly
black Tuscan kale – can provide interest all winter. To look attractive
the plants must be in tip-top condition, so feed them well, stake if
necessary, and keep one step ahead of the caterpillars and pigeons.

The cherry tomato ‘Gardener’s Delight’ is a favourite with many gardeners – it’s prolific,
early to ripen, and always reliably sweet.

CHERRY TOMATOES Summer Always tempting, bush varieties can

be planted in containers, positioned symmetrically to enhance a
formal scheme. Taller, cordon varieties can be supported by an
attractive fence. Like runner beans, tomatoes were originally
introduced as decorative plants, not for eating. Different colours are
available: red, golden, pink and purple.
One for those who don’t like their chillies too scorching, ‘Hungarian Hot Wax’ is a good,
easily obtainable variety with large, showy fruits.

CHILLIES AND OTHER PEPPERS Summer Healthy-looking, shiny

ripe chillies of different shapes, sizes, colours and hotness lend
excitement to any patio or greenhouse and, given enough warmth
and shelter, they are very easy to grow. There are over 200 varieties
around – why not try one of each!

CHIVES Spring One of the first edible treats of the year, chives
emerge in early spring as fresh green shoots, and a couple of
months later produce pretty pinkish-mauve edible flowers that look
wonderful sprinkled on top of salads.

GLOBE ARTICHOKES Spring and summer Very similar to the

cardoon, a globe artichoke plant has such presence that you can
forgive it for looking a bit tatty after the crop is harvested. Avoid
leaving stumps when you cut the artichokes, and leave some of the
smaller ones to flower, both to prolong the season and to please the
bees.
Growing your own globe artichokes brings a touch of class to both garden and kitchen –
and they aren’t difficult, once established.

LEEKS Autumn and winter An invaluable kitchen standby, leeks

add an architectural touch to the garden all winter, particularly if
planted symmetrically.

ONIONS AND GARLIC Summer Like leeks, these are pleasing to

look at if well grown and neatly planted. They make a good vertical
contrast with more sprawling vegetables.

PARSLEY All year Perhaps the most useful kitchen herb to have
freshly available, parsley is a feast for the eyes, especially if you
feed and water it well. The curly-leaved variety has a froth of bright
green leaves that are an asset to any bed.

SQUASHES Summer and autumn Like chillies, squashes come in

a fantastic range of different shapes and colours. Medium-sized
varieties can be grown on wigwams, arches and obelisks to show off
the fruits and improve ripening.

WINTER SALAD LEAVES Autumn, winter and spring Hardy

leaves like rocket, lamb’s lettuce and the most cold-tolerant endives
and mustards can usually be harvested all winter, especially with the
protection of a tunnel or cloche. With different leaf shapes, some
tinged with red, they are a tempting sight in late winter – and just
think of the vitamin C!

Fruit
With beautiful blossom in spring and attractively ripening fruit in late summer,
apples, pears, plums and other favourites compete with the best of
ornamental garden trees. Trained espaliers or fans of these ‘top fruit’ have
traditionally been used to enhance kitchen gardens. They make good screens
or wall coverings, take up minimal space, and it’s easy to pick the fruit. A
warm wall is ideal for a peach, apricot, fig or pear (below, the pear variety
‘Durondeau’), perhaps trained into a decorative fan shape, while a sunny arch
or pergola could support a grape vine. In partial shade, grow soft fruit like
raspberries and loganberries, while for fruit-growing on an altogether smaller
scale, an attractive strawberry pot is hard to beat.
 Vintage accessories
The paraphernalia of a bygone age of kitchen gardening can be very
appealing. Entire businesses now thrive on the trade in heritage gardening
equipment, and reproductions are everywhere. Garden ‘antiques’ such as
galvanized watering cans, forcing pots for seakale and rhubarb, or glazed
hand-lights for bringing on early crops, are now marketed as desirable gifts at
eye-watering prices. But it is still possible to pick up old tools, clay pots,
buckets and other more utilitarian items quite cheaply, even though they are
fast becoming collectables. Fashionable they may be, but they stood the test
of time through the golden age of the kitchen garden and are often better
designed, more durable and ‘greener’ than their mass-produced modern
equivalents.

FOCUS ON The sensory garden

Every good garden is in fact a garden for all the senses.

Smell generally comes a close second to sight in the way we
experience and remember gardens and plants. Taste is up
there too, of course, especially now that more and more
people are discovering the joy and satisfaction of their own
freshly grown food. The senses of touch and sound perhaps
get less attention, but planning with all five senses in mind is
a good route to a truly multi-dimensional garden.
Sight
Designers, like architects, have a whole toolbox of subtle visual
tricks and effects that they employ in order to achieve a particular
atmosphere or mood (see here). These techniques depend on
proportion, the use of light and shade, plant shapes, and – not least
– the fact that different colours provoke different emotional and
visual responses (see here).

Touch
If you’ve never given much thought to what plants are like to touch –
leaves, flowers, fruit, stems and bark – you’ve been missing out on a
whole range of experiences. Woolly or waxy, silky, spiny or fluffy are
just some of the manifestations of this single aspect of the plant
world. A sensory garden can explore and exploit all these and more,
with visual contrasts as a welcome bonus. Try some of these easy,
touchy-feely plants:
Ballota pseudodictamnus Perennial shrub with felty leaves and
bobbly flowerheads
Bergenia Ground-cover perennial with leathery leaves
Carex buchananii Perennial grass with wiry stems
Cotoneaster horizontalis Winter-berrying shrub with a stiff,
fishbone-like structure
Dipsacus fullonum (teasel) Biennial with stiff, spiny stems and
flowers
Helleborus × hybridus Perennial with waxy winter flowers
Lunaria annua (honesty) Biennial with crisp, papery seedpods
Pennisetum alopecuroides Perennial grass with soft, fluffy
‘bottlebrush’ flowerheads
Polystichum setiferum Fern with lacy fronds
Prunus serrula Tree with smooth, satiny bark
Salvia argentea Biennial with dramatic, woolly leaves
Stipa tenuissima Perennial grass with soft, silky stems
 Make the most of sensory plants by placing a seat where you can appreciate a range of
them at close quarters.

Include tactile grasses such as the fluffy Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Herbstzauber’.

Taste
As a way of focusing attention on taste in the garden, try growing
your own ‘extreme taste’ collection in decorative pots, just for fun, as
a seasonal feature. It’s a good way to get children involved in edible
gardening, too. You and they will be astonished by the range of
flavours you can produce in a small collection of easy-to-grow fruits,
vegetables and herbs. Try some of the following (most of which can
be grown from seed), and think up some more:
Carrots (sweet, earthy)
Cherry tomatoes (sweet)
Chicory (bitter)
Chillies (hot)
Chives (oniony)
Coriander (sweet-sour)
Fennel (aniseed)
Lemon verbena (citrus)
Mint (tangy)
Nasturtiums (peppery)
Sorrel (sour, sharp)
Strawberries (sweet)

Sound
Birdsong and the sound of water are among our favourite garden
sounds. But on a more down-to-earth level, your first thought on the
subject may be how to protect your garden from the worst effects of
unwelcome sounds: a noisy road, other people’s music, barking
dogs, domestic squabbles or power tools. Building a wall or
landscaping a bank with dense planting on top are effective
solutions, if rather drastic and almost certainly expensive. Plants
alone can reduce outside noise considerably if carefully chosen,
sited and grouped. A dense evergreen hedge or a group of shrubs
will be the most effective.
Then there are plants that create their own gentle background
music. Bamboo and miscanthus swish pleasantly in the slightest
breeze for much of the year, while on warm, sunny days in late
summer and autumn the dry seedpods of many plants produce a
veritable symphony of popping and crackling. Certain trees, such as
poplars and birch, have leaves that swoosh and hiss with the wind in
summer. Everyone knows the sound of autumn leaves crunching
underfoot, but the crisp leaves of hornbeam and beech hedges,
which remain on the twigs, contribute a gentle clattering and rustling
to the garden soundtrack all winter long.

The sound of water in a garden should be subtle and gentle, as in Tom Stuart-Smith’s water
feature in the Laurent-Perrier garden at the Chelsea Flower Show in 2005.

Smell
Fragrance is one of the most elusive of garden features, never really
guaranteed (especially when you seek it out) but often taking you
delightfully by surprise. Nothing is more satisfying than a truly
fragrant garden – when it works. There are a range of plants to
choose from in the box on the right, so start planting for scent in your
garden all year round!
 Scents for all seasons
SPRING

Azara microphylla ‘Variegata’

Convallaria majalis (lily-of-the-valley)

Erysimum (wallflower)

Hyacinthus (hyacinth)

Lonicera periclymenum ‘Belgica’ (honeysuckle)

Narcissus poeticus var. recurvus

Osmanthus × burkwoodii

Syringa (lilac)

Viola odorata (sweet violet)

SUMMER

Aloysia triphylla (lemon verbena)

Buddleja davidii (butterfly bush)

Dianthus (pinks and sweet williams)

Heliotropium (cherry pie)

Jasminum officinale (jasmine)

Lathyrus odoratus (sweet pea)

Lavandula (lavender)

Lilium regale (regal lily)

Lonicera periclymenum ‘Serotina’ (honeysuckle)

Matthiola bicornis (night-scented stock)

Nicotiana sylvestris (tobacco plant)

Philadelphus (mock orange)

Rosa (including ‘Albertine’, ‘Gloire de Dijon’ and many others)

AUTUMN
Brugmansia

Clerodendrum trichotomum var. fargesii

Elaeagnus pungens

Juniperus communis ‘Hibernica’

Mahonia japonica

Myrtus communis (myrtle)

Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Variegatus’

Pelargonium (scented-leaved geranium)

Viburnum farreri

… and ripe fruit such as apples, plums …

WINTER

Abeliophyllum distichum

Chimonanthus praecox (winter sweet)

Clematis armandii

Daphne bholua ‘Jacqueline Postill’

Lonicera × purpusii ‘Winter Beauty’

Mahonia × media ‘Winter Sun’

Sarcococca confusa

Sarcococca hookeriana var. digyna

Viburnum × bodnantense ‘Dawn’

The finishing touches

Though often an afterthought, garden furniture and

accessories such as containers and garden sculpture should
relate to the overall design just as indoor furniture is chosen
to go with its setting. Seating areas tend to be focal points in
a garden, whether planned that way or not, so choose
furniture that you find pleasing to look at and to use.

Garden furniture
Furniture that can be left out all year means no storage problems in
winter. Permanent outdoor furniture also lets you take advantage of
those impromptu (but so welcome and memorable) sunny winter
moments when it’s warm enough to take your coffee outdoors. Most
all-weather furniture is made from hardwood or non-corrosive metal
such as aluminium. The range available is huge, as are the prices
quite often, but if you find something you really like it will be a
worthwhile investment and, with care, can last a lifetime. With
hardwood furniture, always check that it comes from environmentally
responsible sources (see here).
There’s a whole world of garden furniture beyond the ordinary and mass-produced, and it’s
well worth looking around for something that’s in just the right style for your garden –
wheher it be chic, sleek, classic or rustic. Look for painted wire, rustic or sawn timber, stone
(cold to sit on) or the relatively new all-weather rattan, which is weather-resistant and
comfortable.

For a traditional garden, where brand-new furniture can look

starkly modern and incongruous, don’t dismiss the possibility of
buying second-hand furniture. You might find just the right thing at an
auction, in an antique or charity shop, or online. Well-built hardwood
furniture in a classic style lasts for ages, acquiring a distinguished-
looking silvery patina that looks perfect in a traditional garden.
 Sculpture for your garden
Garden sculpture has recently become more popular than ever, ranging from
the eye-wateringly expensive and the impeccably elegant to the simple and
rustic, the amusingly recycled, the misguidedly mass-produced and the just
plain twee. With such a wide variety to choose from, it is perhaps no surprise
that a lot of garden sculptures are, frankly, not very successful. Of course,
personal taste will be a leading factor in what you choose for your garden, but
a few general tips may help avert an expensive mistake.

If you are unsure what will look right, experiment and ring the changes,
using a little imagination to create your own focal points at minimal cost –
perhaps a collection of natural stones such as granite boulders, slate pillars or
interestingly shaped flints, or an obelisk or ball made of woven flexible plant
stems such as willow, hazel or dogwood.

Before choosing a sculpture, consider what its effect will be throughout the
year. It needs to be visually strong enough to stand alone without leafy
planting to frame it in winter. Choose shapes and materials to fit the style of
your garden. An antique figure or reproduction urn is unlikely to suit a
contemporary space, while a cool, contemporary piece would be lost in a
jumbled cottage garden.
Learn how to balance plants with their containers. Sometimes the plants will star, with the
pot as a foil – or even completely hidden beneath the foliage. A really special pot or urn may
not need plants at all.

Containers
Containers suit every type of garden and are tremendously versatile.
They can give a sense of balance and harmony if they reflect the
planting elsewhere in the garden, or they can make a strong, definite
focal point if they contrast with their surroundings. They have many
practical purposes, too, brightening up patios and terraces where
there is no soil, and enabling you to grow plants that may not like the
soil in your garden. With the right care, pretty well any plant can be
grown in a pot, at least for a short period.

Container companions
An effective group of containers is a garden in itself, providing a
welcome at the front door or an invitation to step out onto the patio.
You can ring the changes with the seasons, or several times a
season, without having to replant the whole thing as some plants
fade, which you may need to do if mixing plants in a single container.
Grouped pots retain moisture well, as they shelter each other from
drying winds. Your display will work best if you choose containers of
different sizes but similar in colour or style. For continuity and a
feeling of harmony, try duplicating plants and containers, for example
two or three pots of the same variety of tulip. Trailing plants look very
elegant if they can cascade from a tall pot, or you can stand the
container on bricks to give height – grouping other, smaller pots
around it to disguise the base.
Decoratively moulded pots, or those with a pattern, look best when
they contain plants with a strong shape and simple foliage, such as a
plain-leaved cordyline or a clipped box. Conversely, intricate plants
such as a mixture of houseleeks are better suited to a plain
container.
 Found objects
Just as special objects are displayed as talking points indoors, things that you
have found can be used as focal points to give incident and interest in the
garden. Use your ingenuity to turn found objects – anything from old tools or
building materials to seaside or railway memorabilia – into customized garden
features. It can give quite a creative buzz, and it needn’t cost you a bean.
FOCUS ON The garden at night

The growing trend for using our gardens as outdoor rooms in

summer has given them a new lease of life after dark. Patios,
furniture, barbecues, lighting and all the paraphernalia of
outdoor living are now found in most gardens and are much
used for evening meals and entertaining. It’s worth giving just
as much attention to the garden setting and planting, creating
the best possible backdrop for those memorable, balmy
evenings when it seems that summer will never end.

Colour and light levels

Planting for evening effect is not normally a top priority, but certain
colours make such a dramatic difference to a garden at dusk and
after dark that it’s worth choosing a few plants with this in mind. The
impact of various colours changes spectacularly towards the end of
the day. Low, late afternoon sunshine emphasizes reds and oranges,
but these colours then recede and have all but disappeared by dusk.
Blues then take their place as the dominant colours after sunset and,
as darkness approaches, it is the whites that occupy centre stage,
taking on a new, luminous character and reflecting every scrap of
dim light so the garden appears ghostly and atmospheric. White-
variegated leaves and white stems create a similar effect, so you will
have no shortage of plants from which to choose (see here, for some
ideas).
Fragrance, too, is an integral part of the pleasure of strolling or
sitting in the garden on summer evenings (see here). Fortunately,
many white flowers – those of jasmine, Nicotiana sylvestris, Lilium
regale, philadelphus and many roses – are also swooningly fragrant,
so these plants earn their keep twice over.
Choose lighting for the style of your garden: spotlights suit contemporary architectural
planting;

these slender lanterns hold their own in a more traditional setting.

Planting for evening: a grass walk disappears into the shadows, with blue highlights for
dusk;

a mixed border has phlox and evening primrose for after-hours fragrance.

Garden lighting
The sophisticated hardware that sometimes seems to be taking over
our lives and our gardens now includes a vast range of outdoor
lighting, both for safety and security, and for atmospheric effect.
Subtle, gentle lighting is best to preserve the ambience and the
sense of mystery of a garden in the gloaming. Once your eyes have
adjusted to the lower light levels, you’ll be able to see much more
than you thought. Bright outdoor lights of any sort make it difficult to
see the stars, give unpleasantly harsh contrasts and deep shadows,
and can annoy your neighbours. Take care not to cause
unnecessary light pollution, especially in country areas, and use
downward-pointing lights wherever possible. If you do decide to use
an uplighter, for example to highlight a tree or architectural plant –
which, admittedly, can look wonderful – then be sure to leave the
lights on only while you’re actually using them.
The most successful lighting is conceived as part of the garden’s
overall design, and is best installed with the rest of the hard
landscaping to save disruption later. It’s advisable to use a qualified
electrician to install any outdoor electrics. Modern low-voltage
systems are much safer than their predecessors, but they need
mains connections that are safe and that comply with up-to-date
regulations.
For those who prefer their nights dark and don’t want to go in for
garden lighting in a big way, the wide range and easy availability of
solar-powered lights and economical, energy-efficient LEDs now
makes it easy and cheap to install unobtrusive lighting in places
where you need it for safety or convenience, such as on steps and
along paths.
 White plants for summer evenings
Betula utilis var. jacquemontii

Clematis ‘Marie Boisselot’

Cornus alternifolia ‘Argentea’

Crambe cordifolia

Digitalis purpurea f. albiflora

Eryngium giganteum ‘Silver Ghost’

Euonymus fortunei ‘Silver Queen’

Euphorbia characias ‘Silver Swan’

Fuchsia magellanica var. molinae

Gypsophila paniculata

Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris

Iris pallida ‘Variegata’

Jasminum officinale

Leucanthemum vulgare

Lilium regale

Mentha suaveolens ‘Variegata’

Onopordum acanthium

Philadelphus coronarius ‘Variegatus’ (below)

Rosa ‘Félicité Perpétue’

Rosa ‘Madame Alfred Carrière’

 Wildlife at night
On a warm, quiet evening, it’s a privilege to share the after-hours world of the
creatures that live in and around your garden. Many of the most tuneful birds,
such as blackbirds and song thrushes, sing long after sunset, and are easier
to hear once the hubbub of the day has died down. If you are lucky you may
hear the haunting calls of owls, typically the familiar ‘tu-whit, tu-whoo’ of a pair
of tawny owls, or the unearthly shriek of a barn owl. Look out for bats hunting
for insects, silhouetted against the darkening sky on still, damp evenings. And
when you are planning your planting, make provision for the fascinating array
of night-flying moths that may visit honeysuckle (below top), evening
primroses, stocks, red valerian, Verbena bonariensis (below bottom) and
many other nectar-bearing plants.
Season by season
Our changing climate means that autumn is
lasting longer and spring beginning earlier, with
the period in between shrinking correspondingly.
Cutting the grass in midwinter – unheard of, not
so long ago – is now quite commonplace, and
more people than ever before are gardening all
year round. So, the design challenge is to make
our gardens look interesting throughout the year,
so that seasonal highlights follow on from each
other thick and fast, with no dull gaps in between.
Planning for all-year interest

Yes, your garden can look attractive and give pleasure for 365
days a year. Making this a reality means using a wide variety
of plants, and combining them for seasonal succession in a
way that makes the most of every inch of available space.

Planting for a succession of effects: silky Stipa tenuissima, attractive all year, partners the
summer flowers of eryngiums and alliums, which will turn into shapely autumn seedheads.

Where to begin?
We tend to associate certain plant effects with certain times of year:
bulbs and blossom for spring, leaf colour and berries for autumn,
evergreens for winter. Planning a succession of effects like this is a
good starting point for an all-season garden. Begin to think of your
favourite plants not in isolation, but as members of a cast of
characters each contributing in its own season.

Doubling up on space
But how do you fit all these different plants in – especially if you have
a small garden? The surprising thing is how little space even some of
the most valuable players need. Spring bulbs, for example, can be
tucked in under deciduous shrubs, or close to the crowns of
perennials that follow the bulbs, or at the back of a bed. A spring-
blossoming tree or shrub might support a summer-flowering climber,
adding dramatically to the overall impact without gobbling up your
precious ground space.

Multi-tasking
Some of the stars in your cast will perform more than once in the year.
Some may flower for a second time if cut back after their first
flowering, such as anthemis, lupins and some roses. Even more
usefully, some plants play different roles at different times – an
ornamental hawthorn with spring blossom, colourful autumn foliage
and winter berries, or a sedum or phlomis with good foliage, summer
flowers and winter seedheads. It’s all about getting the maximum
effect, from the minimum space, for the longest time.

Strongly positioned evergreens and a broad mix of different plant types are guiding principles
in this successful all-season garden, seen here in early autumn.
 ‘To do’ list
Once a new season arrives, with different plants in focus, it’s easy to forget the
last season’s planting successes and failures – until the failures are reproaching
you again next year. You may be able to rearrange a plant grouping or prune an
over-vigorous plant that is no longer flattering its neighbours as soon as you
notice the problem, but often this is better left until the dormant season. Make ‘to
do’ notes, through the year, of things to change as well as successes you want to
repeat, and you’ll have a ready-made job list for autumn and winter.

Spring

Everyone can have a garden that looks good in spring. After a

run of winter days when nothing seems to change much in the
garden, it’s such a relief when everything begins to turn green
that you almost find yourself welcoming the weeds with open
arms. But in this season when gardening seems so easy,
there’s lots of scope for planning and planting to make your
garden even better, now and for the rest of the year.
Malus transitoria, an unusual crab-apple – a beautiful tree in spring, and again in autumn
when it bears tiny golden fruits.

Spring colours
There is so much green around in spring that all colours seem
harmonious, even the clashing combinations that might jar the nerves
at other times of year when they are less likely to be diluted by
lashings of greenery. It’s tempting to take a completely laissez-faire
attitude to colour in spring, when seemingly anything goes and we’re
grateful for all of it. But there are some uniquely springlike colour
combinations that are worth setting up deliberately because they
seem to capture the essence of this freshest and purest of seasons.
Blue, white, yellow and green dominate the early months of the year in
the countryside, when woodland, especially, is at its best. These same
colours echoed in your garden will look brilliant, too.
A wonderfully fresh mix of early-season colour with hellebores, erythroniums, primulas and
euphorbias – woodlanders that will enjoy tree cover later in the year.

Woodland plants
The appeal of woodland in spring lies in the classic wildflowers that
thrive there – bluebells, primroses and wood anemones in particular.
These plants are perfectly adapted to life beneath deciduous trees,
flowering while they get plenty of light – before the trees come into leaf
– then enjoying the cool shade of the tree canopy for the rest of the
year. You can replicate this very successfully in the garden. Try it
under trees – where a tapestry of ground-covering woodlanders and
spring bulbs may be better than grass, which struggles to cope with
summer shade – or beneath deciduous shrubs whose moment of
glory comes later and will mask anything at ground level that is looking
past its best.

Design tips and tasks for spring

Plan your spring displays with the possibility of late frosts in mind;
despite climate change, they can still take you by surprise and do a lot
of damage. Soft young leaves, and early spring flowers such as
camellias and magnolias, are especially vulnerable if the early
morning sun falls on frosted plants, so avoid an east-facing position
for those that will be susceptible. The emerging shoots of lilies can be
protected by planting them among low shrubs – these will provide
some cover as the lilies start into growth.
Make a new year’s resolution to try at least one plant that you’ve
never grown before. For best results and a better long-term
investment, plan what it will be, exactly where you will plant it and how
it will enhance your garden, before you go to the garden centre and
part with your hard-earned cash.
As always, think what’s coming next. Consider how to prevent
plants that are going over from spoiling the show. Dying daffodil
leaves are easy to hide in longer grass or at the back of a border, but
the foliage of alliums becomes unsightly and yellow even while they
are flowering in late spring. You can hide it successfully by planting
alliums with low shrubs that are complementary in form or colour, such
as Salvia officinalis ‘Purpurascens’ (purple sage). Grow other bulbs
with perennials such as Geranium psilostemon or Astrantia, whose
foliage will soon billow up and cover everything beneath.
 Don’t go with the flow!
Spring gardens everywhere abound with daffodils, forsythia and pink cherry
blossom, but there are so many other good spring plants that are readily
available and make a welcome change. Dare to be different, and plant a few
unusual things that you won’t see everywhere else.
TREES
Amelanchier lamarckii
Cercis siliquastrum
Malus transitoria

SHRUBS
Cornus mas ‘Variegata’ (below)
Ribes speciosum
Viburnum carlesii ‘Aurora’

PERENNIALS
Euphorbia myrsinites
Pulsatilla vulgaris
Saxifraga × urbium

BULBS
Muscari botryoides ‘Album’
Scilla bifolia
Tulipa linifolia

Rig up support for herbaceous plants, such as delphiniums, that will

need it, well before they are in danger of flopping over. Proprietary
plant supports in dark colours are an option, but twigs and natural jute
twine, or twiggy prunings, are surprisingly effective, subtle and (even
better) biodegradable.
 Easy plant groupings for a woodland effect
Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ (blue and silver)
Convallaria majalis (lily-of-the-valley) (white)
Narcissus ‘Jenny’ (creamy white)
Pulmonaria ‘Lewis Palmer’ (deep-blue flower, white-spotted foliage)
Veronica umbrosa ‘Georgia Blue’

Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Blue Jacket’ (deep blue)

Leucojum aestivum (white and green)
Lamium maculatum ‘White Nancy’ (white and green)
Narcissus ‘Jack Snipe’ (creamy white and yellow)
Primula vulgaris (primrose) (pale yellow)

Ajuga reptans ‘Catlin’s Giant’ (lavender blue)

Anemone blanda (lavender blue)
Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae (acid yellow-green)
Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’ (gold)
Viola riviniana Purpurea Group (purple flower, bronze foliage)

Save on summer watering by mulching flower beds in early spring, while the soil is still damp.
This will also help to keep the weeds at bay.
Summer

Ah, at last it’s here – that profusion of flowers, and fragrance,

and balmy days that we dream about all year. It’s so important
to relax and enjoy the garden now – otherwise what’s the point
of all the work? But from a design and planning point of view,
summer is quite a challenge. It’s hard to keep on top of
everything when it’s all growing so fast, and only careful
forethought will prevent that dispiriting change from everything
in the garden being lovely to everything being past it.

Echinacea purpurea is a great plant for late summer, provided your soil isn’t too dry. Its
distinctive shape and unusual colouring make it a good partner for many other flowers, and
it’s good to pick for the house too.

Summer – early and late

When you’re working out a planting scheme, somehow early summer
seems to take care of itself. So many of the indispensable chocolate-
box stars belong to this time of year: roses, pinks, clematis, irises, and
staple flowering shrubs like philadelphus and deutzia. No worries
there, then. But late summer is a different matter, and a little advance
planning is definitely required to stop mixed planting from going into a
slow, premature decline. Bedding plants have long been the traditional
tool to keep the show going, but if you don’t want the bother of
bedding out, there is a select band of ‘must-have’ shrubs and
perennials that can be relied on to keep flowering right on into autumn
(see here).

Late-summer stalwarts
Anemone hupehensis ‘Hadspen Abundance’
Aster × frikartii ‘Mönch’
Caryopteris × clandonensis ‘Heavenly Blue’
Ceratostigma willmottianum
Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’
Echinacea purpurea
Eupatorium maculatum Atropurpureum Group
Fuchsia ‘Riccartonii’
Hyssopus officinalis
Penstemon ‘Andenken an Friedrich Hahn’
Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Blue Spire’
Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’

Exotic planting
Balmy summer days lend themselves to exotic planting, which has
become fashionable in recent years – as it was in Victorian times.
There’s a great thrill to be had in transforming a suburban garden into
a tropical oasis bursting with luxuriant vegetation and smouldering
colour; and excitement, too, in the sheer speed with which some
tender plants grow in warm weather.
If you have a conservatory or heated greenhouse to keep them
warm over winter, you can grow true exotic perennials such as
bougainvillea and Brugmansia (formerly Datura), agaves, cacti and
succulents like echeverias and aeoniums. These are tender plants
that would be unlikely to stand British winters outdoors. But even
without winter heat, you can use a sheltered, warm area of the garden
to plant a permanent framework of hardy plants that have exotic-
looking foliage or flowers (see here). In summer, these become a
backdrop for colourful dahlias, begonias, cannas and salvias (which
can be overwintered as dry tubers), and tender annuals grown from
seed – perhaps tithonias, ipomoeas, zinnias, cosmos, ornamental
gourds and the poisonous but eye-catching foliage plant Ricinus
communis.

The late Christopher Lloyd’s legendary exotic garden at Great Dixter. Plants shown here
include banana plants, dahlias, castor-oil plant and the tender purple grass Pennisetum
setaceum ‘Rubrum’. Not a low-maintenance option, but an exciting one.
 Hardy ‘exotics’
Catalpa bignonioides (coppice in winter for vigorous growth and big leaves)
Cordyline australis
Cotinus ‘Grace’ (pollard in winter for the best foliage)
Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’
Eucalyptus gunnii
Fatsia japonica
Kniphofia
Musa basjoo (the hardiest banana plant, but still best covered in winter)
Paulownia tomentosa (coppice in winter to get huge leaves)
Phormium cookianum subsp.hookeri ‘Cream Delight’
Verbena bonariensis
Vitis vinifera ‘Purpurea’
Yucca filamentosa ‘Bright Edge’

Design tips and tasks for summer

Take lots of photographs of your beds and borders through the
summer to help you plan improvements for next year. Note
conspicuous gaps, colour combinations (those you don’t like as well
as those you do) and plants that are getting too big for their boots and
suffocating their neighbours. Digital photography has such a useful
role to play in garden design, enabling you to collect photographs –
easily and inexpensively – of areas of your garden. Combinations that
worked well can be repeated, and you can set aside photos of less
successful plantings for when you have more time in the winter. Then
either print these out and draw on them, or even try manipulating them
digitally, to try out improvements.
Spend just a few minutes deadheading, as often as you can, to
keep the show going. This will pay dividends with bedding plants and
annuals, especially, but many perennials will be coaxed into a second
and third flowering, too. With roses, take off not just the dead
flowerhead, which will leave an ugly stump, but also the stem below it
– back to a promising-looking bud.
While you are dead-heading, look out for pests and diseases, so
you can deal with them before they become a serious problem.
Particular troublemakers include the unmistakable red lily beetle, most
active on sunny days, and, of course, slugs and snails on wet nights.
Keep a few ‘special’ plants like agapanthus and lilies in large pots,
and use them as temporary fillers when a gap appears in your
borders, or as focal points on the patio or beside the front door.
Don’t neglect topiary. Smartly clipped, it works wonders with a
border that has become a bit too luxuriant and overblown and needs
rescuing. Compact box balls, yew cones or dwarf junipers, either in
elegant pots or planted in the ground at a border’s edge, lend a formal
touch that makes the planting picture look intentionally romantic and
‘cottagey’ – rather than just unkempt.

Don’t forget

Keep a design eye open and note, for example, whether you have
the right balance of sun and shade in different areas of the garden,
so that you can do something about it in the winter.
Autumn

Late summer often brings a bit of a lull in the garden. What

with holidays, and in some years the lethargy induced by hot
weather, things tend to cruise along, and planting and weeding
take a back seat. With the start of autumn come cooler nights,
rain perhaps, and a change of gear as spring bulbs go on sale
and planning for next year comes into focus. But there are lots
of plants to enjoy in autumn, too.

Autumn shapes and colours at Marchants Hardy Plants in Sussex. Globe artichoke flowers
and dark agapanthus rise above soft clouds of santolina, perovskia and diascia.

Autumn specials
Our changing climate is making a big difference to autumn, gradually
transforming it from the beginning of the end of the gardening year
into a season in its own right. Low sunshine, and the feeling of
wanting to have a ‘last fling’ before winter, turn autumn into a
wonderful opportunity to make the most of really dazzling colour in the
garden – not just traditional leaf colour but the bold, oil-paint hues of
late flowers. The first frost comes later, so the tender, ‘firecracker’
plants – such as zinnias, salvias, dahlias and fuchsias – carry on
flowering for many weeks, going from strength to strength if the
weather is kind. Hardy, late-flowering shrubs also have a longer
season of colour, so abelias, hibiscus and some hebes, as well as
Caryopteris × clandonensis, Ceratostigma willmottianum and
Perovskia atriplicifolia, are all much more likely to make a long-lasting
contribution to the garden. Then there are grasses, seen at their best
when low, golden sunshine highlights the unique structure of each
variety. Miscanthus and pennisetum, in their many cultivated forms,
are among the old faithfuls that look really outstanding in autumn, but
try something less well known too – perhaps the unusually shaped
Chasmanthium latifolium.

Autumn sunshine and Stipa gigantea might have been made for each other. This wonderful
grass needs an uncluttered setting, and looks even better against a dark background.

Ornamental trees
Everyone loves autumn colour, and certain trees are frequently
recommended specifically for this purpose. But to earn its space in a
garden, a tree needs to do more than one thing. Choose those that
have a starring role in autumn but give a good supporting performance
in other seasons too.
Acer capillipes (snake-bark maple) Green and grey stripy bark gives
all-year interest. The leaves are a good shape too, bright red in bud in
spring, and russet in autumn.
Amelanchier lamarckii (snowy mespilus) With delicate, white, starry
flowers among bronze leaves, amelanchiers are among the prettiest
small trees for spring blossom. Autumn colour is striking, too, and in
late summer the fruits ripen, attracting hungry birds.
Crataegus persimilis ‘Prunifolia’ This is a good, tough, all-round
ornamental hawthorn, with a froth of creamy May blossom. The
autumn leaves turn very gradually from green to yellow to a warm
scarlet, and there are plenty of long-lasting red berries that blackbirds
will relish in hard winter weather.
Malus (crab apple) The spring blossom of the various crabs
develops into a range of different, colourful autumn fruits. Those of
Malus ‘John Downie’ are large, oval and orange-red (great for crab-
apple jelly), while those of Malus × zumi ‘Golden Hornet’ are like tiny,
deep-yellow apples.
Mespilus germanica (medlar) This medium-sized, rounded tree has
attractive pinkish-white spring blossom, golden leaves in autumn, and
curious brown fruits on its bare winter branches.
 Shrubs for autumn berries
Aucuba japonica ‘Rozannie’
Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii ‘Profusion’ (below)
Clerodendrum trichotomum var. fargesii
Cotoneaster dammeri
Cotoneaster horizontalis
Pyracantha ‘Saphyr Jaune’
Rosa ‘Geranium’
Viburnum davidii
Viburnum opulus ‘Compactum’

Amelanchier lamarckii deserves to be more widely planted as a garden tree. Its attractive
foliage partners delicate blossom in spring, and finally builds to a fiery autumn show.

Design tips and tasks for autumn

Fend off those end-of-summer lows by spending a wet early autumn
afternoon with a bulb catalogue, planning a dazzling show to last from
late winter to late spring. Before you order, think (and note down)
where you will plant each sort of bulb so that you know exactly what
you’re doing when the bulbs arrive. Try out a few bulbs you haven’t
grown before, and don’t forget the ‘tinies’ – small, early-flowering
treasures like scillas and chionodoxas that can be tucked in almost
anywhere, building up colonies over the years to make a real impact.
Plant or move hardy shrubs and perennials in autumn, when there
are several months of winter rain ahead to bed them in. Climate
change is tending to bring milder, wetter winters and an increased risk
of spring drought, so planting now is a better bet than leaving it until
spring. Order bare-rooted trees, plus fruit and hedging, ready for
planting from November, when they start to become dormant.

The abundant yellow crab-apples of Malus × zumi ‘Golden Hornet’ will brighten the dullest
autumn days.

Make a stylish display of attractive containers for a porch or patio to

last through the winter. Plant them up with ivies, small evergreens with
good foliage, berrying shrubs and sedges – anything that looks
appealing at your garden centre or nursery. When they have made
decent-sized specimens in a year or so, plant them out in the garden.
Don’t forget

Collect seed from faded annuals, biennials and perennials that you
hope will self-sow, in case they don’t make their own arrangements.
Winter

There’s more happening in the winter garden than we are

inclined to think, and not all of it is going on underground.
Preparations for the new season are, naturally, going on down
there as bulbs start into growth and promising new shoots get
ready to emerge. Evergreens, bare stems and colourful bark,
shrubs with fragrant flowers, and the intricate skeletons left by
flowering perennials all add up to a subtly attractive scene,
and there is time to appreciate each one so much more during
this quiet season.

Teasels are a winter essential – beautiful when coated in frost, thrilling when visited by
goldfinches.

Architectural seedheads
There is a select group of plants – mainly annuals and biennials – that
make a great contribution to the garden in autumn and winter with
their decorative seedheads. These are some of the best:
Dipsacus fullonum (teasel) This is a fine architectural biennial,
though you must weed out unwanted seedlings while they are still
small – a combination of prickles and a tenacious tap root makes it
difficult later. The seedheads provide winter structure and look striking
in frost and snow, as well as attracting that most beautiful of birds, the
goldfinch, to feast on their nourishing seeds.
Eryngium giganteum Another thistly biennial, this has shapely,
silvery bracts that give it great presence, and earn it a place in a
mixed border where it will probably self-seed. It may take two or three
years to flower, and its seedheads are not long-lasting, but in a dry
season some of them may last well into autumn.
Lunaria annua (honesty) Cottage gardens are not complete without
honesty, whose translucent ‘pennies’ gleam in winter sunshine. It is
beautiful in dried arrangements, too, especially if you are patient
enough to peel off the outer casing of each shiny seedpod. (Save the
seeds for next year!)
Nicandra physalodes (shoo-fly plant) This unusual, fast-growing
annual, not unlike a Chinese lantern, has pretty china-blue flowers that
become shapely ‘lanterns’ of a moody purple-black, and hang in neat
rows. The coarse foliage will droop and decay with the first frost.
Nigella damascena (love-in-a-mist) The delicate, papery seedpods
of this much-loved cottage annual develop from (usually) blue flowers.
It’s useful for knitting a border together, and light enough in stature
never to get in the way.
Papaver somniferum (opium poppy) The globular, ‘salt-shaker’
seedheads of these poppies make a distinctive feature, and they can
last well into winter.
Phlomis russeliana This robust perennial has felty, heart-shaped
leaves and stiff tiers of yellow flowers. The symmetrical seedheads
that follow and persist through winter outlast many others in the
garden.
Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’ This trusty sedum is an asset to the garden
from late spring, when its broccoli-like flowerheads begin to appear,
right through to late winter, when you’ll probably feel you must finally
cut the russet seedheads down.

Design tips and tasks for winter

Plant for Christmas – even a small garden has room for a clipped,
berrying holly in a pot, which you could stand beside the front door as
a seasonal welcome. Try Ilex aquifolium ‘J.C. van Tol’, which fruits
reasonably reliably without a partner (in order to fruit, most hollies
need a non-berrying male plant within range of the berrying female).
Grow and pick some fragrant evergreen foliage for making a wreath to
hang on the front door and for decorating inside: myrtle, cypress,
rosemary and bay are all good choices.
For your first gardening task of the new year, cut the old foliage off
your hellebores. The new season’s flowers will show up much better,
and any disfiguring fungal disease is less likely to be transferred from
the old foliage to the new.
Appreciate your winter plants at close quarters by picking regular
offerings for the house, and by planting some late winter bulbs such
as snowdrops and early scillas in small pots to enjoy indoors. You can
plant them outside, wherever there is a gap, after they’ve flowered.

Don’t forget

Fine, frost-free dry days are ideal for any hard landscaping work
that needs doing, from building raised beds (see here) to laying
paths (see here).
 Distinctive bark and stems
TREES
Acer griseum
Arbutus unedo
Betula utilis var. jacquemontii
Prunus serrula

SHRUBS
Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’
Cornus sanguinea ‘Midwinter Fire’
Cornus sericea ‘Flaviramea’
Rubus thibetanus
Salix alba var. vitellina ‘Britzensis’ (below)
Salix daphnoides ‘Aglaia’
The Christmas rose (Helleborus niger) can be quite tricky to please but is a joy where it
succeeds.
 ‘Winter sunshine’ plants
There’s nothing like gold in the garden to bring ‘sunshine’ to a drab winter day.
There are plenty of evergreens whose leaves will do the trick, but also golden
flowers, berries and stems. Try these:
Aucuba japonica ‘Crotonifolia’ (large evergreen shrub, yellow-splashed leaves)
Choisya ternata ‘Sundance’ (medium evergreen shrub, yellow leaves)
Cornus sericea ‘Flaviramea’ (large deciduous shrub, greenish-gold stems)
Elaeagnus pungens ‘Maculata’ (large evergreen shrub, yellow-splashed leaves)
Eranthis hyemalis (dwarf yellow-flowered bulb)
Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ’n’ Gold’ (dwarf evergreen shrub, yellow-variegated
leaves)
Hedera helix ‘Buttercup’ (evergreen climber, yellow leaves)
Hedera helix ‘Goldheart’ (evergreen climber, yellow-variegated leaves)
Ilex × altaclerensis ‘Golden King’ (large evergreen shrub, yellow-variegated
leaves)
Jasminum nudiflorum (medium deciduous shrub, yellow flowers) (below)
Mahonia × media ‘Winter Sun’ (medium evergreen shrub, yellow flowers)
Malus transitoria (deciduous tree, golden fruits)
Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’ (medium evergreen shrub, yellow-splashed
leaves)
Pyracantha ‘Saphyr Jaune’ (large, thorny wall shrub, golden berries)
Sorbus ‘Joseph Rock’ (deciduous tree, golden berries)
Planting solutions
‘No problems, only solutions,’ goes the optimistic
saying. But talk to anyone who is battling to
establish a garden on a waterlogged or gale-torn
site and they could be forgiven for thinking the
opposite. The important thing to remember if you
have a difficult garden is that it’s always much
easier and less costly to adapt the garden and
planting to the site rather than the other way
round. There are very few places where literally
nothing will grow – it’s just a question of finding
plants that will tolerate and even enjoy your
conditions. Adopt a flexible approach and the
solution will present itself.
Problem gardens

There are always practical challenges to be met when you’re

making or maintaining a garden. Poor soil, pests and
diseases, and the wrong sort of weather are common
grumbles, but we gardeners derive great satisfaction from
outwitting the gremlins and succeeding against all the odds.

At one time, specific types of ‘problem’ plot would have discouraged

even the most intrepid gardener, bent on creating the one-size-fits-all,
conventional garden (lawn, bedding plants, roses, shrubbery) that
used to be the template for every suburban plot. But today’s gardens
are far more individual and, with a little imagination, creative solutions
and the right planting can transform even the most unpromising site.
Improving the soil is fundamental to meeting almost every kind of
garden challenge. Adding organic matter, in the form of compost, well-
rotted manure or a proprietary soil conditioner, will add moisture-
retaining body to dry soils, and nutrients and air to wet ones. It will
nourish starved ground in the shade cast by trees, especially
evergreens, and encourage plants to make the large, healthy root
systems that they need for stability in windy gardens.
Aided by regular cultivation and the removal of weeds, a sterile
building site will gradually transform itself into a fertile garden.

Survivors
Each kind of problem garden will have its own plant solutions, but
there are some naturally tough and robust plants that seem able to
cope better than most. So don’t despair before you’ve tried growing
some of the following:

Trees
Acer campestre; Betula pendula; Carpinus betulus; Crataegus ×
lavalleei ‘Carrierei’; Ilex aquifolium; Sorbus aria ‘Lutescens’; Sorbus
hupehensis
Shrubs
Buxus sempervirens ‘Elegantissima’; Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’;
Cotoneaster simonsii; Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald Gaiety’; Hebe
pinguifolia ‘Pagei’; Ilex aquifolium ‘Handsworth New Silver’; Jasminum
nudiflorum; Lonicera pileata; Lonicera × purpusii ‘Winter Beauty’;
Osmanthus × burkwoodii; Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Variegatus’;
Phlomis fruticosa; Potentilla fruticosa cultivars; Prunus lusitanica;
Rosa ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’; Rosa glauca; Rosmarinus officinalis;
Sambucus nigra cultivars; Sarcococca confusa; Viburnum opulus
‘Compactum’

Climbers
Clematis ‘Comtesse de Bouchaud’; Clematis ‘Etoile Violette’; Clematis
tangutica; × Fatshedera lizei; Hedera helix ‘Duckfoot’ ; Hedera helix
‘Parsley Crested’; Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus’; Lathyrus latifolius;
Lonicera periclymenum ‘Graham Thomas’; Rosa ‘Compassion’;
Solanum crispum ‘Glasnevin’; Vitis coignetiae

Not just for Christmas – hollies (here, Ilex aquifolium ‘J.C. van Tol’) may grow quite slowly
when young but, once established, they are reliable stalwarts for year-round interest on all
sorts of difficult sites.

Herbaceous plants
Anthemis tinctoria ‘E.C. Buxton’; Campanula poscharskyana ‘Stella’;
Centaurea montana; Centranthus ruber; Digitalis purpurea; Doronicum
orientale; Erigeron karvinskianus; Eryngium giganteum; Euphorbia
amygdaloides var. robbiae; Geranium macrorrhizum ‘Album’;
Geranium × magnificum; Iris sibirica ‘Tropic Night’; Papaver orientale;
Sisyrinchium striatum; Stachys byzantina; Veronica umbrosa ‘Georgia
Blue’; Viola riviniana Purpurea Group (See also here.)
Bulbs
Allium hollandicum, Chionodoxa luciliae; Crocus tommasinianus;
Cyclamen hederifolium; Leucojum aestivum; Narcissus ‘Jack Snipe’;
Nectaroscordum siculum; Scilla siberica; Tulipa ‘Ballerina’

Grasses
Carex buchananii; Carex oshimensis ‘Evergold’; Luzula sylvatica
‘Marginata’; Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’; Stipa tenuissima

New-build gardens

If you buy a newly built house, the chances of its coming

complete with a thoughtfully landscaped garden topped with a
foot or two of fertile loam are, frankly, not great. Clay subsoil
on the surface may well have been hidden under poor-quality
turf, and all manner of horrors, from brick rubble and waste
mortar to cement bags, may lurk beneath. How, then, do you
make this buried building site into a garden you can enjoy?

On a brand new plot you have a big advantage in that you can broadly
plan the garden at the outset and have any earth-moving done while
machinery is on site and access easy – a big cost saving. If you find it
hard to envisage your new garden, arm yourself with the site plan and
sketch a layout on paper.

Container solutions
It can be prohibitively expensive to stock an entire new garden with
plants big enough to make an impact within the first year or two –
specimen-sized shrubs in 10- or 20-litre pots don’t come cheap. But, if
you aren’t ready to plant the whole garden in the first season, you can
still gain time by buying some of the shrubs you want and using them
as container plants in a patio display for the first couple of years.
They’ll soon catch up with those pricey, more mature plants. Choose
reliable garden-centre plants in 2- or 3-litre pots and re-pot them into
bigger containers full of rich compost, with a dash of slow-release
fertilizer. Either use normal 10-litre plastic pots and put them inside a
more attractive container, or plant them into an ornamental pot (avoid
narrow necks – they make it hard to get the rootball out later).

Traditional terracing
If your new-build, empty garden is on a steep slope, now’s the time to turn this
to advantage by terracing. This way of making slopes into flat, usable ground
stretches back to prehistoric times. It is just as valid on modern building plots as
on ancient cultivation terraces. Each level needs to be retained, usually by a
brick or blockwork wall. It’s often nice to have them at ‘perching height’ – about
60cm (2ft) – as additional seating. If there’s enough lateral space on a steep
slope, then two terraces of that height will look better and provide more stability
than a single retaining wall of twice the height. For walls that will stand higher
than a metre (40in), consult a structural engineer about design and building.
 Space-fillers for quick impact
Cosmos bipinnatus (annual)

Fuchsia magellanica

Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus’

Lupinus arboreus (below)

Onopordum acanthium

Tropaeolum majus (nasturtium – annual)

A few well-sited container plants will soften newly built steps and retaining walls until the
permanent planting matures enough to take over.
 KEY to symbols

In this chapter the following symbols are used to indicate a

plant’s preferred growing conditions. All plants featured are
fully hardy. A rough idea is also given as to what height (H)
and spread (S) might be at maturity.

Prefers/tolerates an open, sunny site

Prefers/tolerates some shade

Prefers/tolerates full shade

Needs wet soil

Needs moist soil

Needs dry soil

Needs well-drained soil

Needs/prefers acidic soil

Needs/prefers alkaline soil

Needs humus-rich soil

Season of main interest (e.g. flowers, foliage, stems,

berries)
Plants for quick impact in new-build gardens
Allium cristophii
SUMMER
H 50cm (20in) S 20cm (8in)
The larger alliums are real ‘statement’ plants, strongly architectural
and giving instant impact to a garden. Their flowering season is short,
but Allium cristophii makes up for it with its wonderful long-lasting
seedheads. Plant alliums with low shrubs and perennials that will hide
their dying leaves.

Buddleja ‘Lochinch’
SUMMER
H 2.5m (8ft) S 3m (10ft)
Vigorous and long-suffering even in the most unpromising situations,
buddleias will make good cover in no time in a new garden and, as
everyone knows, butterflies love them. Some varieties, though, have
straggly foliage and a gawky, gaunt habit, which means they don’t
contribute much when they aren’t in flower. ‘Lochinch’ is a hybrid with
soft grey foliage and quite pale lavender flowers. Prune it hard every
spring to keep it shapely and flowering well.
Ceanothus ‘Concha’
SUMMER
H 2.5m (8ft) S 2.5m (8ft)
This fast-growing evergreen shrub is ideal for covering sunny walls
and fences quickly, usually reaching a height of 2m (6ft) in its second
season. It is covered in beautiful deep-blue blossom in late spring, and
is a good host plant for a climber, such as a clematis, that will flower
later. It’s important to trim the plant back after flowering to stop it from
bulging forwards. If that happens, the base will be shaded and lose its
leaves – and ceanothus cannot be pruned back into old wood.

Lavatera × clementii ‘Barnsley’

SUMMER
H 1.5m (5ft) S 1.2m (4ft)
This is probably the best known of several cultivars of the tree mallow
(formerly Lavatera olbia) – all of them fast-growing, rather leggy
shrubs. They have pink flowers over a long season, ranging from the
pale pink ‘Barnsley’ to the purplish ‘Burgundy Wine’. They are not
long-lived, but their rapid growth makes them useful for quick colour,
especially on dry soil. The plants are best bought small; larger
specimens in pots can be top-heavy.
Nigella damascena
Love-in-a-mist
SUMMER
H 50cm (20in) S 30cm (12in)
A favourite annual, with feathery foliage and shapely seedheads,
Nigella is very forgiving of poor soil and self-seeds freely and
conveniently. It lends a ‘cottagey’ effect to the garden and never
becomes a nuisance. Blue is the principal (and by far the best) colour,
but it is also available in white and pink, and is good for cut flowers.

Rosa glauca
SUMMER TO WINTER
H 2.5m (8ft) S 1.5m (5ft)
This easily grown species rose is an unassuming but valuable
background plant, offering attractive pinkish-grey foliage with clear
cerise-pink, single flowers in early summer. Autumn brings an
abundant display of red hips that last well into winter.
Shady gardens

People often talk about shade as if it were the worst of all

gardening difficulties. It’s true that what will grow in a garden
overhung by large trees or shaded by tall buildings may be
limited, but there are things you can do to help lighten the
darkness. Choosing the right plants makes all the difference –
remember that some very beautiful plants are shade-lovers.

Shade-loving stalwarts
Bergenia cultivars

Cyclamen hederifolium

Epimedium cultivars

Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ’n’ Gold’

Galium odoratum (sweet woodruff)

Geranium macrorrhizum ‘Album’

Helleborus foetidus

Hosta cultivars

Iris foetidissima

Luzula sylvatica ‘Marginata’

Sarcococca confusa

Tolmiea menziesii ‘Taff’s Gold’

Shade under trees

Dense shade under trees can be a problem, because as well as
making the garden dark, the trees mop up moisture and goodness
from the soil, leaving nothing to sustain your precious plants
underneath. It may be worth consulting a qualified tree surgeon about
raising or thinning the crowns of the trees to let in more light. Don’t
despair, though, when it comes to planting. Many spring bulbs and
natural woodland plants (see here) are perfectly adapted to life under
trees, and if you keep them well supplied with what they need by
watering and mulching, you won’t go wrong.

Unwelcome in the wild, Spanish bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanica) are irrepressible in

gardens.

Shade from buildings

Many town gardens consist of a small plot shaded by large buildings,
which may seem like an insoluble problem. But in gardening terms this
kind of shade is easier to work with than shade under trees.
Dealing with shade in these circumstances begins when you’re
planning the hard landscaping. Think in terms of pale colours to reflect
the maximum amount of light. This also applies to your house: white
doors and window frames will act as bright focal points when seen
from the garden. Cream or white rendered walls – on the boundary or
the house – will also reflect light. When considering paving, avoid drab
grey-green colours and opt for warm, golden hues instead.
 Suggesting a pergola or arbour in a shady garden may seem to be
making the problem worse, but you could paint that cream, too. You
should be prepared for more frequent repainting than with bare wood
or a dark colour, but that is a small price to pay. If you plant it up with
deciduous climbers, they will let the sunlight in for six months of the
year but give you a beautiful, leafy retreat for hot summer days.

See here for Key to symbols.

Plants that thrive in a shady garden

Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae

SPRING
H 50cm (20in) S indefinite
This is one of that valuable group of plants for places where you think
nothing will grow. Once established, it gives dense, dark-green ground
cover all year, erupting, in early spring, into a froth of flowerheads of
the freshest acid lime-green. It goes particularly well with dark-blue or
purple flowers such as periwinkles and violets.

Fatsia japonica
YEAR-ROUND
H 2m (6ft) S 2m (6ft)
There’s nothing quite like this plant – except its more ivy-like hybrid
offspring, × Fatshedera lizei. Both are wonderful architectural plants
for shade. Fatsia japonica, with its huge, shiny leaves, makes a great
focal point (and is fine in a large pot) while × Fatshedera is more of a
climber. Both look good growing from a carpet of contrasting foliage
such as ferns and variegated hostas.

Pulmonaria ‘Lewis Palmer’

SPRING
H 30cm (12in) S 30cm (12in)
There are many different pulmonaria cultivars, but this has to be one
of the best. Its large, rich blue flowers appear in early spring, and the
white-spotted leaves help brighten shady places after flowering is
over. If the foliage gets mildew, just cut all the leaves off and a crop of
fresh ones will soon appear.

Rubus thibetanus
WINTER TO SPRING
H 2m (6ft) S 1.5m (5ft)
Its former cultivar name, ‘Silver Fern’, aptly describes this upright
deciduous shrub (a kind of bramble, but don’t dismiss it because of
that), with a fountain-like arrangement of upright stems. Each
season’s its new stems are covered with a white bloom, making them
stand out against a dark background, especially in winter. It is very
low-maintenance: just remember to cut down its old stems in late
spring to make way for new, whiter ones. Don’t plant it near a path or
seat – it’s prickly.

Ruscus aculeatus
Butcher’s broom
WINTER TO SPRING
H50cm (20in) S 90cm (3ft)
You will sometimes find this British native growing wild in shady
woods, but it is seen more and more in gardens. It is a rather spiky-
leaved evergreen shrub with tiny star-shaped flowers. The female
form has splendid, large red berries in winter. Some nurseries also sell
a hermaphrodite form, which doesn’t need a male partner to bear fruit.

Vinca difformis
Periwinkle
WINTER TO SPRING
H 30cm (12in) S indefinite
Never waste lovely rich soil on the larger periwinkles like Vinca
difformis and Vinca major cultivars – they will repay you by growing
with such vigour that they will soon begin to overwhelm their
neighbours. But like the versatile euphorbia (see here) they will put up
with poor conditions and make a weed-smothering carpet. Vinca
difformis has very pale bluish-white, starry flowers that will light up a
dark corner. Vinca major flowers are violet-blue.
Windy gardens

It’s easy to underestimate the destructive power of wind in a

garden. Even light winds can damage young plants and slow
their growth, and gardeners on exposed sites know only too
well the frustration of constant battles against prevailing winds.

Many of us will occasionally suffer gale damage to trees or buildings,

especially now that climate change is bringing more frequent bouts of
rough weather. All in all, creating shelter is becoming more important
than ever, and giving this a bit of thought at the planning stage can
turn your garden into a far more pleasant space – for both you and
your plants.

Wind direction
In the UK, the strongest winds tend to come from the west and
southwest. If you are making a new garden on an exposed site, you
will probably need to create shelter on that side of the garden first, to
give your new plants protection from harsh gales.
Cold air is also worth taking into account, and planting for shelter on
the north and east sides of your garden will help to reduce the effects
of cold winds and frosty air. Some springtime favourites – for instance,
magnolias, camellias and lilac – are particularly susceptible to frosts.
Fruit trees, too, will crop less heavily – or not at all – if the blossom
suffers frost damage. Giving plants like these a sheltered site may
save their flowers from being browned and disfigured by frosty nights
at the wrong time.
It is often assumed that town gardens will be sheltered, but tall
buildings and the gaps between them can sometimes give rise to
unexpected eddies and turbulence that can be quite detrimental.
Whatever your situation, take time to notice the prevailing winds in
your garden and the problems they cause, so that you can remedy the
situation effectively.
 Seaside gardens
Coastal gardens are a special case and lend themselves to particular plants.
Strong, salty winds and, usually, little tree cover for shelter or shade, mean that
plants have to take everything that the sea can throw at them, and this rules out
many traditional garden favourites. But the advantages of seaside gardens
include brilliant light, more equable temperatures, less occurrence of fungal
disease and fewer problems with difficult shade. The coasts of south-west
England have some enviable gardens that are home to all sorts of exotics and
other plants that would struggle inland, and the tempering effect of the sea is
felt even in gardens facing into cold easterly winds. Hebes, lavateras,
escallonias, fuchsias and hydrangeas are among the shrubs that usually enjoy
seaside life. Trees can be difficult to establish, but hawthorns and pines are
reliable or, for something more unusual, try eucalyptus or the feathery tamarisk.

Creating shelter
Fencing may not be the best choice for a very exposed boundary. A
solid fence, especially, will be vulnerable to gale damage unless very
strongly built. More important, a solid barrier can create a surprising
amount of turbulence on its ‘sheltered’ lee side. In windy places, semi-
permeable fencing is better. This might be posts and rails, ‘hit-and-
miss’ fencing, woven hurdles, sturdily fixed trellis, or a picket fence –
though not all of these provide much privacy.
Broom, red and white valerian, seakale and California poppies contribute to a colourful and
tough planting scheme for a seaside garden.

A hedge, or – depending on the space available – a mixed shelter

belt of trees and shrubs, offers the best of both worlds. It forms an
opaque barrier (once it is mature) and it provides very good shelter
because it effectively filters the wind, slowing it down and reducing its
force without creating eddies on the lee side. A windbreak such as a
mixed hedge will effectively protect the plants on that side for a
surprisingly long distance – up to ten times the height of the
windbreak.

See here for Key to symbols.

Wind-tolerant plants
Cotoneaster horizontalis
SUMMER TO WINTER
H 1.2m (4ft) S 2m (6ft)
Cotoneasters are sometimes dismissed as boring but they are
stalwarts in difficult conditions. Bees love them, and there are
abundant berries to cheer you and the birds in winter. The small-
leaved Cotoneaster horizontalis can be grown as a freestanding low
shrub or against a wall, perhaps with a wind-tolerant climber such as
Clematis tangutica trained through it for summer interest.

Euphorbia polychroma
SPRING TO AUTUMN
H 30cm (12in) S 50cm (20in)
This widely available euphorbia puts up with all manner of adverse
conditions. Its acid-yellow flowerheads stay looking presentable from
spring through to autumn, by which time the leaves have taken on
coral tints. It appreciates some sunshine and good drainage, and is
compact enough not to get blown over by the wind.

Geranium ‘Ann Folkard’

 SUMMER TO AUTUMN
H 50cm (20in) S 1.2m (4ft)
A long flowering season and striking black-eyed magenta flowers
make this vigorous perennial a reliable and attractive choice for mixed
borders. It has a scrambling habit, weaving among other plants for
support, and is particularly useful for covering the dying foliage of
spring bulbs. It dies back to a central crown in winter, so it is not
permanently invasive.

Hippophae rhamnoides
Sea buckthorn
SUMMER TO WINTER
H 3m (10ft) S 3m (10ft)
This resilient shrub combines an iron constitution with an elegant
exterior. Its narrow silver leaves suggest a delicate treasure but its
natural habitat is by the sea and it puts up with gales and poor soil
uncomplainingly. Grow several in a group if you have space. You will
need males and females growing together so that you (and the birds)
will benefit from orange berries in autumn.
Juniperus communis
YEAR-ROUND
H and S vary according to cultivar Windy hillsides are fine for most
junipers, which come in an array of shapes and sizes, from ground-
covering Juniperus communis ‘Green Carpet’ to the tall, slender
‘Hibernica’ and ‘Schneverdingen Goldmachangel’ (above), similar in
form to ‘Hibernica’ but more yellow. Juniperus communis ‘Compressa’
stays as a neat flame shape 60cm (2ft) high, working well in pots.

Rosa rugosa
SUMMER TO AUTUMN
H 1.5m (5ft) S 1.5m (5ft)
Most pests and diseases are unknown to this vigorous, hip-bearing
rose and its cultivars (above, ‘Alba’). It has single or double blooms,
pink, magenta or white, with crinkly foliage. Rosa spinosissima
(formerly Rosa pimpinellifolia), the burnet rose, also tolerates wind.
Dry gardens

Dry gardens are not all bad news – far from it. Light, sandy
and chalky soils warm up faster than heavy clay in spring and
are much easier to work, especially in damp weather.
However, very free-draining soils are susceptible to summer
droughts. As ever, the answer lies in the soil – and in the
planting.

Improve your soil

There is a lot that you can do to improve dry, free-draining soils. Start
by digging in all the organic matter you can – your own garden
compost, well-rotted animal manure or a proprietary soil conditioner
(now available through council-run composting schemes). Adding
humus helps the soil hang on to any moisture that comes its way.
Mulching is also important. A surface mulch applied in late winter,
before the soil dries out, makes all the difference in the critical spring
growing season, ensuring that plants coming out of dormancy have
moisture when they need it most. You can use a woodchip mulch
(again, try your local council), chipped bark, compost or even grit or
slate chippings. Replenish it when it gets thin. Anything that reduces
evaporation from the soil will help. A surface covering like this will also
make your garden look well tended, setting off your plants to
perfection as well as keeping down weeds.
Subtle colours and contrasting shapes combine in this thoughtfully composed planting
scheme for a gravel garden.

Water-wise planting
Choose drought-tolerant plants for areas that are prone to drying out.

Help the soil to store water by incorporating plenty of moisture-retaining

humus in the form of compost.

Apply a surface mulch when the soil is damp.

Use dense ground-covering perennials to help prevent or slow evaporation

from the soil surface. They will also help to suppress weeds.

Water seed drills before you sow the seed, then cover the damp drill to help
conserve moisture.

Plant perennials, trees and shrubs in autumn to get them established before
spring droughts.

Soak plants in a bucket of water for about an hour to get the rootball
thoroughly wet before planting.

Choose the right plants

Many of the plants we grow in our gardens hail from climates much
warmer and drier than ours, so when choosing plants for dry gardens
it’s much better to go for things that would, given the choice, actually
prefer to live that way. Top of the list are probably plants from
Mediterranean climates, a category that includes many herbs and
other aromatic shrubs, spiky or grey-leaved perennials, and bulbs.
These are well adapted to managing without water: some have
succulent leaves that retain water, others have waxy or leathery
leaves that resist evaporation, or silvery, hairy ones to protect them
from the sun.
Plants are often overlooked as a tool for retaining soil moisture, but
ground-covering shrubs and perennials make a very effective living
green mulch, covering and shading the soil in just the same way as
well-rotted organic matter.

See here for Key to symbols.

Star performers for a dry garden

Euphorbia myrsinites
SPRING
H 15cm (6in) S 45cm (18in)
Euphorbias are the stars of the dry garden, with dazzling, lime-green
flowerheads that are a welcome feature in early spring. Euphorbia
myrsinites has succulent leaves that make it especially drought-
tolerant – good for the front of a bed on top of a retaining wall. (Wear
gloves when you cut euphorbias, as their sap is a skin irritant.)
Rosa ‘Roseraie de l’Haÿ’
SUMMER
H 2m (6ft) S 1.5m (5ft)
Attempting to grow roses on poor, dry soil can be frustrating, but try
this one. It can make a big bush, but if you have the space it’s one of
the best for adverse conditions, even resisting blackspot and greenfly.
Ideal for the back of a bed, it has a long season of fragrant, double
magenta flowers and slightly crinkly, fresh green foliage. Trim and
dead-head it occasionally during the summer.

Rosmarinus officinalis
YEAR-ROUND
H and S vary according to cultivar This old-fashioned aromatic shrub
comes in many different guises. Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Miss
Jessopp’s Upright’ does what it says on the tin, while ‘Severn Sea’ is
compact, low and arching, with bright blue flowers. All types of
rosemary love warm, dry conditions and poor soil.
Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’
AUTUMN TO WINTER
H 50cm (20in) S 90cm (3ft)
Commonly known by its English name ‘Autumn Joy’, this is a real
workhorse of a plant. Its contribution lasts for months, from succulent
grey foliage, then coral-coloured plates of flowers in late summer, to
bronze seedheads in the winter. Plant several – that way, your borders
won’t look as if they have lost the plot in late summer.

Sisyrinchium striatum
SUMMER
H 50cm (20in) S 30cm (12in)
This easy, ‘spiky’ plant has fans of sword-shaped leaves that add
structure, and produces stems studded with cream flower bobbles that
blend well with just about everything. For something a bit special try
the variegated cultivar Sisyrinchium striatum ‘Aunt May’.

Tulipa ‘Ballerina’
SPRING
H 50cm (20in) S 15cm (6in)
Tulips like nothing better than a good baking, and in the right
conditions this tall, elegant orange variety will thrive year after year.
Damp gardens

On a hot summer’s day, as you trudge round with a watering

can, the idea of a damp garden might sound idyllic. But for a
lot of people, a damp garden means clay – probably the most
detested of all soil types: sticky and stodgy and crippling to
dig, flooding easily and suffocating all but the most
amphibious of plants. Yes, clay can be a pain, and it can be
hard work to make something of it. But clay that has been
successfully improved and well worked gives very good
results, making a fertile, moisture-retentive soil that will
support a wide variety of plants.

Eupatoriums, rudbeckias and persicarias – all moisture-lovers, here joining forces for an
autumn display in Beth Chatto’s damp garden.

Improving the soil

Most damp soils contain clay particles; these are very small and
create a dense, heavy, airless mass. The answer is to mix in coarse
materials to break the soil up and help it to drain better. Adding grit –
sold in garden centres as horticultural grit or coarse grit – will open up
the soil structure and improve drainage. Digging in organic matter
helps too, so add home-made compost or any other soil-improving
source of humus. This will also encourage worms – always a good
thing, particularly in heavy soil where the tunnels they make will
improve aeration and drainage.

Laying drainage
In extreme cases, it may be necessary to improve the situation using
structural methods such as laying land drains and soakaways. This
works both for persistent damp spots and for entire damp gardens –
though it can involve serious toil. However, it is only worth doing on
sloping sites, because if the waterlogged ground is level there won’t
be anywhere for the water to drain away. You might just have to get
used to wearing wellingtons, and to growing plants that enjoy these
conditions.

Trees for damp gardens

Alnus incana ‘Aurea’

Alnus glutinosa ‘Imperialis’

Amelanchier lamarckii

Betula nigra

Crataegus laevigata

Gleditsia triacanthos ‘Sunburst’

Mespilus germanica

Sorbus aucuparia
 Slug and snail control
Unfortunately, damp gardens tend to be popular with slugs and snails. These
days conventional slug pellets are increasingly frowned on because they may
also harm other creatures, but there are less damaging alternatives, from
biological control to copper bands. Natural predators of slugs and snails include
frogs and toads, slow-worms, ground beetles, thrushes and hedgehogs, so
encouraging these allies will help control the problem. You can make choice
areas less attractive to slugs and snails by spreading grit, and keep damp, dark
corners tidy so they have fewer breeding places. Torchlight forays to pick slugs
off your plants at night, especially after rain, are perhaps the most successful
measure, and that way – or by using beer or citrus-peel traps – you have the
satisfaction of knowing you’ve caught the culprits. Lastly, there are plants that
slugs don’t go for, so try bergenias or Tellima grandiflora as ground cover
instead of hostas, and grow those plants that are slug delicacies in pots, where
it’s easier to keep the pests out.

Moisture-loving plants
That takes care of the back-breaking bit. Now for the good news.
There are dozens of plants that love having wet feet, and you’ll make
life far less frustrating for yourself if you choose these for your damp
garden. Just one word of warning, though. Many damp-loving plants
do grow very fast, so keep an eye on the thuggish ones and don’t let
them smother more delicate neighbours.

See here for Key to symbols.

Key choices for a damp mixed border

Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’
YEAR-ROUND
H 2m (6ft) S 3m (10ft)
True to its name, this vigorous dogwood (one of many for damp soil)
looks good all year. ‘Sibirica Variegata’ is very similar but more
compact – but either shrub can be kept to size by annual spring
pruning, usually removing a third of the stems at the base. This also
encourages it to produce glowing red stems – its star feature. Silvery
spring buds open into white-variegated leaves.

Dryopteris wallichiana
SPRING TO AUTUMN
H 90cm (3ft) S 75cm (30in)
This deciduous fern has an upright form, with dark brown ribs and
scales that are particularly striking against the yellowish green of the
emerging fronds. Even when these become darker green, this fern
makes a wonderful focal point, planted singly or in groups.
Eupatorium maculatum Atropurpureum Group
SUMMER TO AUTUMN
H 2m (6ft) S 1.2m (4ft)
This tall, hardy clump-former is a good backdrop to a mixed border. It
comes into its own in late summer, when it bears clouds of dusty pink
flowers. After fading gradually to silvery brown, they stay intact well
into winter.

Persicaria amplexicaulis ‘Firetail’

SUMMER TO AUTUMN
H 1.2m (4ft) S 1.2m (4ft)
Useful for making substantial clumps in the middle or back of a border,
this robust perennial has glowing, long-lived, pinkish-red pokers.

Rodgersia aesculifolia
SPRING TO SUMMER
H 1.5m (5ft) S 1.2m (4ft)
The various rodgersias are great architectural foliage plants, which
you will be lucky enough to grow only if your soil is moisture-retentive
or if you have water to plant them beside. The leaves resemble those
of horse-chestnut, and plumes of frothy white or pink flowers are a
bonus. Some shade is usually better than full sun.

Viburnum opulus ‘Compactum’

SPRING AND AUTUMN
H 1.5m (5ft) S 1.2m (4ft)
This is a small version of the native shrub guelder rose, with lobed
leaves and hydrangea-like lacecap flowers in spring. These are
followed by generous bunches of jammy red, translucent berries that
the birds don’t seem to want to touch until they’re really desperate for
food.
 FOCUS ON Planning for a green garden

Now that more and more of us want to do our bit to help the
planet, making our gardens more eco-friendly is becoming
second nature. It’s not difficult to improve your environmental
credentials as a gardener, especially if you put in some
thought at the planning stage.

Saving water
Climate change has turned water conservation into an issue that now
has to be factored into garden planning. We get plenty of rain overall,
but usually too much at the wrong time. Storing rainwater to use later
helps even things out. Water butts are a relatively cheap and obvious
solution and easy to source. Position them, unobtrusively, to catch
rainwater from gutters. Laying seep hoses is often recommended as a
way of ensuring that the water gets to where it is most needed without
wastage. Choosing the right plants will make all the difference, too
(see here).
This rustic arch is made of sycamore prunings – a completely renewable resource, with a
non-existent carbon footprint. And it’s free!
 The planet – do your bit
Peat is a non-renewable resource, so don’t use peat or peat-based composts.
Various alternatives that perform well are now available.

A plant propagated by a local nursery will have a smaller carbon footprint than
one raised in a foreign greenhouse and transported to your garden centre.

Try to get hold of locally produced charcoal for barbecues, and support a
sustainable woodland industry. Much mass-produced charcoal is made from
rainforest timber.

Avoid using fertilizer as much as you can. If you choose plants to suit your
soil, and use home-made compost, bought-in fertilizers should scarcely be
needed. If you do decide to buy fertilizer, avoid inorganic chemicals, which are
energy intensive to produce and pollute watercourses with their run-off.

Use clay pots wherever possible, and try to find somewhere that takes plastic
pots for recycling. There may be a local school or allotment association, or a
keen gardener who propagates plants for sale, who could reuse them.

A softer landscape
When you’re planning your hard landscaping, remember that it doesn’t
have to be literally ‘hard’, and not everything you build in your garden
needs to last for ever. True, there will be times when you want to
make a proper job of building something solid and lasting, such as a
retaining wall to terrace an awkward slope. But with other features –
such as a rustic arch or a play area, or the layout of paths in a kitchen
garden – you may fancy a change after two or three seasons. For
these, you can take a gentler approach. Instead of ‘permanent’
materials like concrete and pressure-treated timber – which are
difficult to get rid of when you want to make changes – use natural
wood (perhaps even home-grown), or free chippings from your own
shredder.

Less power – more peace

Using garden machinery thoughtfully is another aspect of
environmentally friendly gardening. Try mowing less often, and
allowing wild flowers to colonize longer grass. For small areas,
consider a nippy little hand mower. Use shears instead of a strimmer
or hedge trimmer, and a good old-fashioned broom instead of a noisy
leaf blower or vacuum sweeper. The chances are you’ll enjoy the
exercise, save money, and the neighbours and local wildlife will
appreciate the peace.

One man’s rubbish …

Recycled construction materials can be a great bargain. If you look out
for the best examples, they will lend your garden a maturity that only
years of weathering will give to their brand-new counterparts (which
may well be the product of unsustainable manufacturing processes).
Secondhand bricks, timber and paving slabs are sometimes
advertised in local papers or on the internet, and your local council
may have recycling centres where such things are sold on very
cheaply.
The council may also be the place to go for composts, mulches and
soil conditioners. Garden waste collection schemes are gathering
pace in many areas, involving vast, high-temperature composting
operations. Green waste ultimately becomes an excellent peat-free,
weed-free, environmentally friendly compost that is sold, bagged, to
enrich people’s gardens. Some schemes also produce chipped bark,
woodchip mulch and potting compost.
Recycling is all – be it a gate built of driftwood or compost made from garden and kitchen
waste.

compost made from garden and kitchen waste.

 Where is it from?
When you buy anything for the garden, think about where it has come from and
what its environmental impact might be. We are getting used to thinking this
way about peat and tropical hardwoods such as teak, but not yet, perhaps,
about bamboo canes that have been shipped from China, or plastic netting
made from petrochemicals. You may well be able to come up with locally
produced alternatives – home-grown bamboo or your own woody prunings as
plant supports. Dogwood, elder, hazel and buddleia all benefit from a hard cut-
back in late winter, producing useful material for poles and pea-sticks, and the
cut stems recover very quickly. By the time your supports have become brittle,
in a season or two, the shrub will have been obliging enough to grow some
more for you. (See also here.)

The garden ecosystem

Making your garden more wildlife-friendly is one of the mainstays of green
gardening (see here). Growing a wide variety of different plants is a good start.
Other measures to boost a garden’s wildlife include making a pond and a
compost heap, planting shrubs, hedges and trees for nesting cover, and letting
an area of grass grow long. Many of the creatures you’ll attract will be
predators. These will devour aphids, snails and other plant pests, helping to
create a balanced community where pests don’t get the upper hand – or at
least, not for long. This is a far more sustainable solution than using pesticides,
which can harm or kill the beneficial predators as well as the pests.
Index
The page references in this index correspond to the printed edition
from which this ebook was created. To find a specific word or phrase
from the index, please use the search feature of your ebook reader.

Page numbers in italics refer to plants illustrated and described in

the ‘Planting Solutions’ chapter.

A
Abeliophyllum distichum 23, 31, 111
Abies koreana 100
Abutilon vitifolium ‘Tennant’s White’ 31
Acanthus 82; A. spinosus 95
Acer: A. campestre 103, 127; A. capillipes 122; A. griseum 125; A.
palmatum ‘Bloodgood’ 91; A. platanoides ‘Drummondii’ 86
Achillea 82; A. filipendulina ‘Gold Plate’ 87, 95
Aconitum 39
Actinidia kolomikta 31
Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’ 33
agapanthus 121, 122
Ajuga reptans 85; A.r. ‘Catlin’s Giant’ 35, 39, 119
Alcea rosea ‘Nigra’ 33
Alchemilla mollis 17, 35, 39, 82
all-year interest 117
Allium 35, 119; A. cristophii 129; A. hollandicum 32, 127
Alnus glutinosa ‘Imperialis’ 136; A. incana ‘Aurea’ 136
Aloysia triphylla 111
Amelanchier lamarckii 119, 122–3, 136
Anchusa azurea ‘Loddon Royalist’ 87
Anemone: A. blanda 99, 119; A. hupehensis ‘Hadspen Abundance’
120; A. × hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’ 35, 95
Angelica sylvestris 77
annuals 96–7
Anthemis tinctoria ‘E.C. Buxton’ 87, 127
Anthriscus sylvestris ‘Ravenswing’ 33
antirrhinums 96
Aquilegia 34, 35; A. alpina 20
arbours 50, 104, 130
Arbutus unedo 100, 125
arches 10, 11, 50, 57, 104, 138
architectural plants 24, 32, 81, 90
Armeria maritima 35
Artemisia 16; A. ‘Powis Castle’ 91
Arum 39, 77, 78; A. italicum subsp. italicum ‘Marmoratum’ 78–9, 86
ash 101
Aster × frikartii ‘Mönch’ 35, 95, 120
Astilbe 82
Astrantia 35, 119; A. major ‘Sunningdale Variegated’ 86
Atriplex halimus 91
Aucuba japonica ‘Crotonifolia’ 125; A.j. ‘Rozannie’ 123
Australian swamp stonecrop 77
autumn 111, 122–3
Award of Garden Merit (AGM) 95
Azara microphylla ‘Variegata’ 111
Azolla filiculoides 77

B
Ballota pseudodictamnus 110
bamboos 26, 33, 100, 105, 111
banana plants 121
banks, constructing 16–17
bay 79
beans 108
beech 42, 89, 102, 111; see also Fagus sylvatica
beetroot 108
Berberis: B. thunbergii ‘Aurea’ 91; B.t. f. atropurpurea ‘Helmond
Pillar’ 91, 105
Bergenia 82, 110, 130, 136
Betula: B. nigra 136; B. pendula 127; B. utilis var. jacquemontii 89,
115, 125
biennials 96, 97
birch 36, 89, 111; see also Betula
birdboxes 37
‘black’ plants 33
blackthorn 37, 103
bog bean 77
borders, low-maintenance 42
bougainvillea 120
box see Buxus sempervirens
Brachyglottis (Dunedin Group) ‘Sunshine’ 91
branched bur-reed 77
brassicas 108
Brazilian water milfoil 77
brickwork 52, 53, 60–1; copings 61; laying 61; mortar mix 60; paths
11, 46, 47
broccoli 108
brooklime 77
Brugmansia 39, 111, 120
Brunnera 82; B. macrophylla ‘Hadspen Cream’ 86; B.m. ‘Jack Frost’
35, 119
buckthorn 103
Buddleja: B. davidii 37, 91, 111; B.d. ‘Black Knight’ 105; B. ‘Lochinch’
129
bulbs 98–9, 123, 127; in borders 98–9; in containers 99, 125; in
grass 99
bulrush 77
butcher’s broom 131
Butomus umbellatus 77
butterfly bush see Buddleja Buxus sempervirens 26, 102; B.s.
‘Elegantissima’ 20, 39, 43, 127; B.s. ‘Suffruticosa’ 102

C
Calamagrostis 105; C. × acutiflora ‘Overdam’ 79, 86
Californian poppy 35, 97
Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii ‘Profusion’ 123
Caltha palustris 77
Camellia 14, 90, 132
Campanula 84; C. poscharskyana 35; C.p. ‘Stella’ 127
Campsis × tagliabuana 31
canary creeper 97
Cardamine pratensis 77
Carex: C. buchananii 32, 43, 110, 127; C. morrowii ‘Fisher’s Form’
86; C. oshimensis ‘Evergold’ 39, 127
Carpinus betulus 102, 127; C.b. ‘Fastigiata’ 105
Caryopteris 9, 122; C. × clandonensis ‘Heavenly Blue’ 87, 120
Catalpa bignonioides 121
catmint 35, 36, 107
Ceanothus 90; C. ‘Concha’ 31, 87, 100, 129
Centaurea montana 127
Centranthus ruber 16, 35, 36, 127
Ceratostigma willmottianum 87, 120, 122
Cercis siliquastrum 89, 119
Cerinthe major ‘Purpurascens’ 106
Chaemaecyparis lawsoniana 103
Chaenomeles × superba ‘Crimson and Gold’ 31, 39
Chasmanthium latifolium 122
cherry pie 111 see also Heliotropium
children: gardening with 38, 110; play equipment 38–9; safety 39, 75
Chilean glory flower 97
chillies 107, 108, 109
Chimonanthus praecox 23, 111
Chionodoxa 98, 99, 123; C. luciliae 127
chives 109
Choisya ternata ‘Sundance’ 91, 125
Christmas rose 125
cistus 16, 90
Clematis 14, 23, 92; C. armandii 111; C. ‘Comtesse de Bouchaud’
127; C. ‘Étoile Violette’ 93, 127; C. ‘Frances Rivis’ 31; C. ‘Huldine’
93; C. ‘Jackmanii’ 93; C. ‘Marie Boisselot’ 31, 78, 115; C. montana
var. wilsonii 50; C. ‘Perle d’Azur’ 101; C. ‘Polish Spirit’ 31; C.
 tangutica 31, 127, 133; C. ‘Warszawska Nike’ 92; C. ‘Wedding
Day’ 31
Clerodendron trichotomum var. fargesii 111, 123
climate and microclimate 14
climbing plants 29, 31, 79, 81, 92–3, 127; growing from seed 97;
partners 92, 93; pole supports 105; self-clinging 92; wall supports
69
Cobaea scandens 93, 97
Colchicum 39; C. speciosum ‘Album’ 99; C. ‘Waterlily’ 99
cold frames 38
colour 83–6; effective use of 24, 32, 33, 83–6, 130; for evening effect
114; and mood 87; spring colour 118
companion planting 107
compost 37, 139
concrete 53–4; blocks 52, 53; mixing 53–4; slabs 54
containers 23, 31, 113, 123, 128; bulbs 99; container ponds 73;
grouping 113; low-maintenance planting 43
contemporary gardens 32–3
Convallaria majalis 23, 111, 119
Convolvulus cneorum 16, 91
Cordyline australis 32, 43, 82, 121
Cornus: C. alba ‘Aurea’ 91; C.a. ‘Elegantissima’ 39, 86, 125, 127,
137; C.a. ‘Sibirica’ 90; C.a. ‘Sibirica Variegata’ 137; C. alternifolia
‘Argentea’ 115; C. controversa ‘Variegata’ 86; C. mas 101; C.m.
‘Variegata’ 119; C. sanguinea 103; C.s. ‘Midwinter Fire’ 125; C.
sericea ‘Flaviramea’ 125
Corylus maxima ‘Purpurea’ 91
Cosmos 56, 96, 128
Cotinus 91; C. coggygria 101; C.c. ‘Royal Purple’ 91; C. ‘Grace’ 121
Cotoneaster 23, 37; C. dammeri 17, 123; C. horizontalis 31, 39, 82,
110, 123, 133; C. simonsii 127
cottage gardens 34–5, 107
courtyard gardens 26, 32
cowslip 35
Crambe cordifolia 82, 115
Crassula helmsii 77
Crataegus: C. laevigata 136; C. × lavalleei ‘Carrierei’ 100, 127; C.
monogyna 103; C. persimilis ‘Prunifolia’ 100, 123
Crocosmia 82; C. ‘Lucifer’ 87, 105, 121
Crocus 99; C. speciosus 99; C. tommasinianus 127
Cryptomeria japonica ‘Elegans Compacta’ 82
× Cupressocyparis leylandii 42, 103
curly waterweed 77
Cyclamen 35, 82, 98; C. coum 99; C. hederifolium 86, 99, 127, 130
Cynara cardunculus 82

D
daffodils 99, 119; see also Narcissus
Dahlia: D. ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ 84, 87, 120; D. ‘Chimborazo’ 85
damp gardens 136–7
Daphne 23, 39, 91; D. bholua ‘Jacqueline Postill’ 111
dead-heading 97, 121
decking 33, 45, 64–5; construction 65
Delphinium 82, 87, 95, 119
design plan 18–21; computer-aided design (CAD) 20, 58; marking
out 21; measurements 18–19, 20–1; planting plans 20, 21; site
plan 19; wish list 19
design principles 10–11; balance 11; golden ratio 10; movement and
flow 11; proportions 9, 10; rhythm 11; scale 10; unity 11
Dianthus 35, 111
Dicentra spectabilis ‘Alba’ 78
Digitalis 82; D. purpurea 127; D.p. f. albiflora 78, 115
Dipsacus fullonum 110, 124
dogwood see Cornus
Doronicum orientale 127
drought-tolerant plants 14, 33, 134, 135
dry gardens 134–5
Dryopteris wallichiana 137

E
Eccremocarpus scaber 97
Echinacea purpurea 120
Echinops ritro 35
eco-friendly gardening 138–9
Eichhornia crassipes 77
Elaeagnus: E. pungens 111; E.p. ‘Maculata’ 125; E. ‘Quicksilver’ 91
elder see Sambucus
Elodea canadensis 76
entrances and access routes 15, 24, 31; see also paths
Epimedium 130
Eranthis hyemalis 23, 125
Eremurus 82, 105
Erigeron karvinskianus 16, 35, 127
Eryngium: E. alpinum 87; E. giganteum 32, 35, 124, 127; E.g. ‘Silver
Ghost’ 115
Erysimum 111; E. latifolium 98
Escallonia laevis ‘Gold Brian’ 91
Eschscholzia californica 35, 97
Eucalyptus gunnii 121
Euonymus: E. europaeus 37, 101, 103; E. fortunei ‘Emerald Gaiety’
127; E.f. ‘Emerald ’n’ Gold’ 39, 91, 125, 130; E.f. ‘Silver Queen’
31, 86, 92, 115; E. japonicus ‘Microphyllus’ 26, 102; E. planipes
101
Eupatorium maculatum Atropurpureum Group 82, 120, 137
Euphorbia 30, 39, 118; E. amygdaloides var. robbiae 119, 127, 131;
E. ‘Blackbird’ 33; E. characias 35; E.c. ‘Silver Swan’ 86, 115; E.c.
subsp. wulfenii 20, 23, 32, 95; E. cyparissias ‘Fens Ruby’ 82; E.
myrsinites 119, 135; E. polychroma 82, 133
evening primrose 36, 114, 115
exotic plants 120–1

F
Fagus sylvatica 102; F.s. ‘Dawyck’ 105
fairy fern 77
family gardens 38–9
Fargesia nitida 32
× Fatshedera lizei 31, 82, 127, 131
Fatsia japonica 32, 43, 79, 82, 90, 121, 131
fences 48–9, 132; chain-link 49; chestnut paling 49; close-boarded
49; estate fencing 49; hurdles 35, 48, 49; panels 48, 62–3; picket
fencing 48, 49; post-and-rail 49, 56; post-and-wire 49; posts 56,
62–3
ferns 78, 110, 137
fertilizers 138
Festuca glauca 43
Ficus carica 31, 82
field maple 103
Filipendula ulmaria 77
firethorn see Pyracantha
floating pennywort 77
flower shows 33, 41
flowering rush 77
focal points 11, 25
Foeniculum vulgare ‘Purpureum’ 82
forget-me-not 34, 35, 97
formal gardens 40–1
found objects as garden features 113
fountains and bubble-jets 73
foxgloves 35, 36, 56, 78, 86, 96, 97, 105, 107; see also Digitalis
foxtail lily 82, 105
fragrance 23, 87, 111, 114–15
Fritillaria meleagris 77, 99
front gardens 30–1
frost pockets 14
fruit growing 109, 132
Fuchsia: F. magellanica 128; F.m. var. molinae 115; F. ‘Riccartonii’
120
furniture, garden 35, 112–13

G
Galium odoratum 130
Galtonia candicans 99
garden ‘rooms’ 27, 41
garden styles: contemporary gardens 32–3; cottage gardens 34–5;
family gardens 38–9; formal gardens 40–1; wildlife gardens 36–7
garlic 109
Garrya elliptica 31
gates 49
Gaultheria procumbens 43
gazebos 50–1
Geranium: G. ‘Ann Folkard’ 133; G. macrorrhizum 17; G.m. ‘Album’
127, 130; G. × magnificum 39, 127; G. pratense ‘Black Beauty’ 33,
99; G. psilostemon 35, 95, 119; G. ‘Rozanne’ 20, 87, 95;
Geum rivale 77; G.r. ‘Leonard’s Variety’ 35
Ginkgo 89
Gleditsia 89; G. triacanthos ‘Sunburst’ 136
globe artichokes 107, 109, 122
grasses 32, 79, 86, 105, 127
gravel 31, 42, 56, 68
great reedmace 77
greenhouses 51, 79, 120
ground-cover planting 17, 42, 86
grouping plants 11, 81
guelder rose 37, 103
Gunnera manicata 77
Gypsophila paniculata 82, 115

H
Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’ 32
hanging baskets 79
hard landscaping 14–15, 24, 44–69, 125, 139; materials 52–68; see
also specific features e.g. patios
hawthorn 36, 103, 123; see also Crataegus
hazardous plants 39
hazel 35, 57
heathers 14
Hebe 90; H. pinguifolia ‘Pagei’ 91, 127
Hedera: H. algeriensis ‘Ravensholst’ 31; H. canariensis ‘Gloire de
Marengo’ 31, 86; H. colchica ‘Sulphur Heart’ 86; H. helix
 ‘Buttercup’ 125; H.h. ‘Duckfoot’ 127; H.h. ‘Goldheart’ 125; H.h.
‘Oro di Bogliasco’ 86; H.h. ‘Parsley Crested’ 31, 127
hedges 42, 102–3, 132; clipping 103; hedging plants 102–3; mixed
hedging 103, 132; planting 103; renovation 103
height, creating 104–5
Helenium 82
Helianthemum ‘Wisley White’ 20, 91
Helichrysum italicum ‘Korma’ 91
Helictotrichon sempervirens 32
Heliotropium (heliotrope) 23, 111
Helleborus 33, 35, 95, 98, 118, 125; H. foetidus 130; H. niger 125; H.
× hybridus 110
Hemerocallis ‘Corky’ 87, 95
herbs 14, 79; see also individual herbs
Hermodactylus tuberosus 33
Hesperis matronalis 35
Heuchera 17
Hibiscus syriacus ‘Bluebird’ 87
Hippophae rhamnoides 37, 91, 133
holly 35, 37, 42, 100, 102, 125; see also Ilex
hollyhocks 35
honesty 35, 78, 84, 96, 110, 124; see also Lunaria annua
honeysuckle 23, 35, 111; see also Lonicera
hornbeam 102, 111
Hosta 30, 78, 82, 130; H. ‘Halcyon’ 83; H. sieboldiana 32, 82; H.
‘Wide Brim’ 86
Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus’ 31, 82, 127, 128
Hyacinthoides hispanica 130
Hyacinthus 99, 111; H. orientalis ‘Blue Jacket’ 119
Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris 31, 93, 115
Hydrocotyle ranunculoides 77
Hyssopus officinalis 16, 36, 120

I
Iceland poppy 97
Ilex 37; I. × altaclerensis ‘Golden King’ 39, 125; I. aquifolium 79, 127;
I.a. ‘Handsworth New Silver’ 86, 127; I.a. ‘Pyramidalis’ 105; I.a.
‘J.C. van Tol’ 125, 127; I. crenata ‘Convexa’ 102
Inula hookeri 35
Ipomoea 39; I. lobata 97
Iris 35, 82; I. foetidissima 130; I. ‘Harmony’ 99; I. laevigata 77; I.
pallida ‘Variegata’ 32, 86, 115; I. pseudacorus 77; I.p. ‘Variegata’
83, 86; I. sibirica ‘Butter and Sugar’ 95; I.s. ‘Tropic Night’ 87, 127
Itea ilicifolia 31
ivies 17, 30, 37; see also Hedera

J
Jasminum 23, 114; J. nudiflorum 39, 125, 127; J. officinale 39, 111,
115
Judas tree 89
Juniperus communis 133; J.c. ‘Compressa’ 43, 133; J.c. ‘Green
Carpet’ 133; J.c. ‘Hibernica’ 105, 111, 133; J.c. ‘Schneverdingen
Goldmachangel’ 133

K
kingcup 77
Kniphofia 82, 94, 121; K. ‘Bees’ Lemon’ 87

L
Laburnum 39
lady’s smock 77
Lagarosiphon major 77
Lamium maculatum ‘White Nancy’ 86, 119
Lathyrus: L. latifolius 127; L. odoratus 111
Laurus nobilis 79
Lavandula 6, 16, 23, 36, 111; L. angustifolia ‘Imperial Gem’ 91
Lavatera × clementii; L. × c. ‘Barnsley’ 129; L. × c. ‘Burgundy Wine’
129
lavender see Lavandula
lawns 24, 38, 42, 70–1; alternatives to 42; mini meadows 70;
mowing 70, 139; sowing 71; turfing 70, 71
leeks 109
lemon verbena 111
Leucanthemum vulgare 115
Leucojum aestivum 119, 127
Leyland cypress 42, 103
Libertia 82
lighting 114, 115
Ligustrum vulgare 103
lilac 111, 132
Lilium regale 23, 86, 99, 111, 114, 115
lily-of-the-valley 23, 111, 119
Limnanthes douglasii 35, 36
Liriodendron tulipifera 13
long, narrow gardens 26–8
Lonicera: L. ‘Firecracker’ 31; L. nitida 42, 102; L.n. ‘Baggesen’s
Gold’ 39, 91; L. periclymenum ‘Belgica’ 111; L.p. ‘Graham Thomas’
31, 127; L.p. ‘Serotina’ 111; L. pileata 17, 127; L. × purpusii ‘Winter
Beauty’ 111, 127
love-in-a-mist 35, 82, 87, 96, 124, 129
low-maintenance gardening 42–3
Luma apiculata ‘Glanleam Gold’ 86
Lunaria annua 35, 110, 124; L.a. var. albiflora ‘Alba Variegata’ 78
Lupinus 82, 86, 105; L. arboreus 128
Luzula sylvatica ‘Marginata’ 127, 130
Lychnis flos-cuculi 77
Lythrum salicaria 77

M
magnolias 14, 132
Mahonia 90; M. japonica 111; M. × media 105; M. × m. ‘Winter Sun’
20, 87, 111, 125
Malus 123; M. ‘John Downie’ 123; M. transitoria 118, 119, 125; M. ×
zumi ‘Golden Hornet’ 123
marsh marigold 77
Matteuccia struthiopteris 78, 82, 85
Matthiola bicornis 111
meadow buttercup 77
meadowsweet 77
Meconopsis cambrica 87
medlar 123
Mentha: M. aquatica 77; M. suaveolens ‘Variegata’ 86, 115
Menyanthes trifoliata 77
Mespilus germanica 123, 136
mint 23, 36; see also Mentha
mirrors 25, 29, 104
Miscanthus sinensis 23, 105, 111; M.s. ‘Morning Light’ 79, 86, 127;
M.s. ‘Zebrinus’ 86
mock orange see Philadelphus
moisture-loving plants 136, 137
mood, creation of 87
morning glory 97
Morus nigra 88
movement and sound 87, 111
mulberry 88
mulching 134
Musa basjoo 121
Muscari botryoides ‘Album’ 119
Myosotis 34, 35, 97
Myriophyllum aquaticum 77
Myrtus communis (myrtle) 31, 111

N
Narcissus: N. ‘Jack Snipe’ 20, 99, 119, 127; N. ‘Jenny’ 119; N.
poeticus var. recurvus 111; N. ‘Tête-à-Tête’ 87, 99
nasturtiums 97, 128; see also Tropaeolum
Nectaroscordum siculum 127
Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’ 35
Nerine bowdenii 99
New Zealand pygmy weed 77
new-build gardens 128–9
Nicandra physalodes 124
Nicotiana 23; N. sylvestris 111, 114
Nigella damascena 35, 82, 87, 96, 124, 129
night, the garden at 114–15
Nymphaea: N. ‘Froebelii’ 77; N. ‘Rose Arey’ 77; N. tetragona 76; N.
‘Walter Pagels’ 76

O
obelisks 104
onions 109
Onopordum acanthium 115, 128
Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’ 33
opium poppy 35, 124
organic gardening 38
Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’ 39, 119
Osmanthus: O. × burkwoodii 79, 111, 127; O. heterophyllus 90; O.h.
‘Goshiki’ 20, 43, 86, 125; O.h. ‘Variegatus’ 111, 127

P, Q
Papaver: P. nudicaule 97; P. orientale 34, 127; P.o. Goliath Group
‘Beauty of Livermere’ 87; P. somniferum 35, 124
parking spaces 30, 31
Parnassia palustris 77
parrot’s feather 77
parsley 109
Parthenocissus: P. henryana 31; P. tricuspidata 31
paths 10, 24, 25, 29, 46–7; brick 11, 46, 47; chipped bark 47, 68;
kitchen garden 106–7; laying 68; loose aggregates 47, 68; siting
15; stepping stones 46–7, 68
patios 45
Paulownia tomentosa 121
paving 25, 45, 58–9; block 54–5; brick 11, 46, 47; concrete slabs 54;
drainage 58; laying 58–9; layouts 58; mortar mix 60; permeable
block paving 31; reusing 15; setts 54, 55; stone 54; sub-base 55
peat 138
Pelargonium 111
Pennisetum: P. alopecuroides 110; P.a. ‘Herbstzauber’ 110; P.
setaceum ‘Rubrum’ 121
Penstemon ‘Andenken an Friedrich Hahn’ 95, 120
perennials, herbaceous 94–5, 105, 127; cottage garden 35; division
94, 95; tender 120
pergolas 10, 11, 50, 93, 101, 104, 130; construction 66–7
periwinkle 17, 78, 131; see also Vinca
Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Blue Spire’ 120, 122
Persicaria amplexicaule ‘Firetail’ 87, 137
pests and diseases 36, 121, 136
Philadelphus 20, 92, 111, 114; P. coronarius ‘Aureus’ 91, 99; P.c.
‘Variegatus’ 115
Phillyrea angustifolia 102
Phlomis: P. fruticosa 39, 91, 127; P. russeliana 124–5
Phormium 30, 43, 82, 90; P. cookianum subsp. hookeri ‘Cream
Delight’ 86, 121; P. ‘Maori Queen’ 32; P. ‘Platt’s Black’ 33
Phyllostachys nigra 33, 100, 105
Physocarpus: P. opulifolius ‘Dart’s Gold’ 91; P.o. ‘Diabolo’ 91
pinks 14, 35, 111
Pistia stratiotes 77
Pittosporum tenuifolium 79; P.t. ‘Tom Thumb’ 33, 91
plant shapes 82; domed 82; filler plants 81, 82; horizontal 82; vertical
82
planting plans 20, 21
poached-egg plant 35, 36
Polygonatum × hybridum 83
Polystichum setiferum 78, 110
ponds 17, 28, 36–7, 72; construction 74–5; container ponds 73;
renovation 77; safety 39, 75; swimming ponds 38
pondweeds 76
poplar 89, 111
poppies 34, 35, 36; see also Papaver
Portugal laurel 100
potagers 107
Potentilla fruticosa 127
Primula: P. veris 35; P. vulgaris 119
privet 42, 103
problem gardens 25, 127
pruning 91
Prunus: P. cerasifera 100; P.c. ‘Nigra’ 100; P. lusitanica 100, 127; P.
serrula 110, 125; P. spinosa 37, 103; P. ‘Spire’ 105; P. × subhirtella
‘Autumnalis’ 23
Pulmonaria 35; P. ‘Lewis Palmer’ 95, 119, 131; P. saccharata 86
Pulsatilla vulgaris 119
purple loosestrife 77
Pyracantha 23, 37; P. ‘Saphyr Jaune’ 31, 123, 125; P. ‘Saphyr
Rouge’ 87
Pyrus: P. calleryana ‘Chanticleer’ 105; P. salicifolia ‘Pendula’ 89

R
ragged robin 77
railway sleepers 47, 56–7
rainwater harvesting 138
raised beds 38, 43, 79, 106
ramps 17
Ranunculus acris 77
recycled materials 15, 34–5, 139
Rhamnus: R. alaternus ‘Argenteovariegata’ 86; R. cathartica 103
Rheum 82; R. palmatum ‘Atrosanguineum’ 82
Rhododendron 14, 90
Ribes speciosum 31, 119
Ricinus 39; R. communis 82
rills 73
Robinia 89; R. pseudoacacia ‘Lace Lady’ 88
Rodgersia: R. aesculifolia 137; R. podophylla 82, 83, 85
roof gardens 32, 33
Rosa: R. ‘Adélaïde d’Orléans’ 93; R. ‘Albertine’ 111; R. ‘American
Pillar’ 50; R. ‘Climbing Iceberg’ 31; R. ‘Compassion’ 93, 127; R.
‘Danse du Feu’ 31; R. ‘Félicité Perpétue’ 31, 115; R. ‘Fru Dagmar
Hastrup’ 127; R. ‘The Generous Gardener’ 31; R. ‘Geranium’ 87,
105, 123; R. glauca 127, 129; R. ‘Gloire de Dijon’ 111; R. ‘Golden
Showers’ 93; R. ‘Graham Thomas’ 87; R. ‘Madame Alfred
Carrière’ 93, 115; R. × odorata ‘Mutabilis’ 107; R. ‘Parkdirektor
Riggers’ 31; R. ‘The Pilgrim’ 31; R. ‘Roseraie de l’Haÿ’ 135; R.
 rugosa 37, 133; R. spinosissima 133; R. ‘Tess of the d’Urbervilles’
31; R. ‘Winchester Cathedral’ 20
roses see Rosa; climbing 50, 93
Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) 16, 23, 39, 127, 135; R.o. ‘Miss
Jessopp’s Upright’ 135; R.o. ‘Severn Sea’ 135

rowan 36, 89; see also Sorbus

Rubus: R. cockburnianus ‘Goldenvale’ 91; R. thibetanus 91, 125,
131
Rudbeckia 82
Ruscus aculeatus 131
Ruta 39

S
safety in the garden 39, 47, 75
salad leaves 109
Salix: S. alba var. vitellina ‘Britzensis’ 125; S. daphnoides ‘Aglaia’
125
Salvia: S. argentea 110; S. involucrata ‘Bethellii’ 85; S. officinalis
‘Purpurascens’ 91, 119
Sambucus 101; S. nigra 127; S.n. ‘Eva’ 99; S.n. ‘Gerda’ (‘Black
Beauty’) 33, 91; S.n. ‘Marginata’ 86; S. racemosa ‘Sutherland
Gold’ 91
sand 52–3
Santolina 35, 82; S. chamaecyparissus ‘Lemon Queen’ 32, 91
Sarcococca 90, 91; S. confusa 23, 39, 111, 127, 130; S. hookeriana
var. digyna 111
Saxifraga × urbium 119
Scabiosa atropurpurea ‘Chile Black’ 33
Scilla 23, 99, 123, 125; S. bifolia 119; S. siberica 127
screening 15, 100–1; with structures 101; with trees 100–1
sculpture in the garden 112
sea buckthorn 37
seaside gardens 132
seasonal gardening 116–25
Sedum 33, 36, 43, 82; S. erythrostictum ‘Frosty Morn’ 86; S.
‘Herbstfreude’ 95, 120, 124–5, 135; S. spectabile 36; S.s. ‘Iceberg’
32
seed collecting 123
seedheads, decorative 81, 124–5
seep hoses 138
self-seeding plants 34, 35, 96
Sempervivum 33, 43; S. tectorum ‘Atrorubens’ 32
sensory garden 110–11
shade and shady gardens 13, 24, 78, 86, 87, 130–1
sheds 51
shelter 14, 78, 132
shingle 14, 47, 55, 68
shoo-fly plant 124
shrubs 90–1, 105, 127; autumn berries 123; colourful 91; deciduous
90–1; evergreen 90; growing and pruning 91; as small trees 101;
variegated 86
Sisyrinchium 82; S. striatum 32, 127, 135; S.s. ‘Aunt May’ 86, 135
site 12–17; aspect and orientation 13–14; cables and pipework 15–
16; climate and microclimate 14; existing buildings 14–15; existing
plants 14; hard landscaping 14–15; setting 12; shape 12– 13, 24–
9; size and proportions 10, 12; soil 14; survey 12, 18– 19;
topography 13, 14, 16–17, 24; views onto 22–3
Skimmia japonica ‘Rubella’ 43
slugs and snails 36, 136
small spaces 32, 78–9
snake-bark maple 122
snakeshead fritillary 77, 99
snowdrops 23, 125
snowy mespilus 119, 122–3, 136
soil 14; chalk 14; clay 14, 136; drainage 14, 16, 58, 136;
improvement 127, 134, 136; pH (acidity/alkalinity) 14; sand 14
Solanum 101; S. crispum ‘Glasnevin’ 127
Solomon’s seal 83
Sorbus 89; S. aria ‘Lutescens’ 127; S. aucuparia 89, 136; S.a.
‘Fastigiata’ 105; S. commixta 89; S. hupehensis 89, 127; S.
 ‘Joseph Rock’ 89, 125
space-filler plants 81, 82, 128
space-saving equipment 79
Sparganium erectum 77
spindle 37, 101, 103
Spiraea: S. ‘Arguta’ 82; S. japonica ‘Goldflame’ 91
spring 111, 118–19
square gardens 26
squashes 109
Stachys byzantina 127
staking plants 95, 119
steps 10, 11, 17, 47–8
Sternbergia lutea 99
Stipa: S. gigantea 32, 122; S. tenuissima 20, 23, 35, 41, 43, 82, 87,
110, 117, 127
stocks 23, 111, 115
stone: chippings 47, 55; paving 54; reconstituted 54
strawberry tree 100
streams 73
styles of garden see garden styles
summer 111, 120–1
summerhouses 50–1
sweet peas 35, 97, 111
sweet williams 96, 111
sweet woodruff 130
swimming pools 38
Syringa 111, 132

T
Taxus baccata 39, 79, 102–3; T.b. ‘Fastigiata’ 105
teasels 110, 124
Tellima grandiflora 17, 136; T.g. Rubra Group 39
terracing 13, 14, 16, 17, 24, 40, 128
Teucrium fruticans 91
textures, plant 83
Thalictrum: T. aquilegiifolium 82; T. delavayi 35
Thuja plicata 103
Thymus (thyme) 16, 23, 36; T. citriodorus 39
timber 56–7; fixings 65; preservatives and colours 62; sustainable
sources 57
tobacco plant see Nicotiana
Tolmiea menziesii ‘Taff’s Gold’ 130
tomatoes 108
tools and machinery 42, 79, 109, 139
topiary 25, 40, 41, 121
Trachelospermum jasminoides 23, 31
tree ferns 78
trees 86, 88–9, 105, 127; for damp gardens 136; deciduous 100–1;
distinctive bark and stems 125; evergreen 100; light canopy 89;
native 36; ornamental 122–3; planting 123; screening with 100–1;
shade 130
trellis 33, 48, 57, 69, 101
triangular gardens 28–9
Tropaeolum: T. majus 128; T. speciosum 31
Tulipa 60; T. ‘Ballerina’ 127, 135; T. ‘Couleur Cardinal’ 87; T.
‘Dillenburg’ 98; T. linifolia 119; T. ‘Queen of Night’ 33;
Typha latifolia 77

U, V
Valeriana officinalis 77
variegated plants 86
vegetable growing 34, 106–9, 110–11; beds 106; companion planting
107; crop protection 107; crop rotation 107; kitchen garden 106–7;
ornamental vegetables 108–9; potagers 107
Veratrum nigrum 33
Verbascum 82, 105
Verbena bonariensis 26, 35, 36, 39, 105, 115, 121
Veronica: V. beccabunga 77; V. umbrosa ‘Georgia Blue’ 119, 127
Veronicastrum 82
Viburnum: V. × bodnantense ‘Dawn’ 111; V. carlesii ‘Aurora’ 119; V.
davidii 82, 90, 123; V. farreri 111; V. lantana 103; V. opulus 37,
103; V.o. ‘Aureum’ 91; V.o. ‘Compactum’ 87, 123, 127, 137; V.
 plicatum f. tomentosum ‘Mariesii’ 82; V. rhytidophyllum 101; V.
sargentii ‘Onondaga’ 91; V. tinus ‘Variegatum’ 86;
Vinca: V. difformis 131; V. major 131; V. minor 78; V.m. ‘La Grave’ 39
vintage garden items 109
Viola 35; V. cornuta 82; V. odorata 111; V. riviniana Purpurea Group
33, 35, 102, 119, 127
Vitis: V. coignetiae 127; V. vinifera ‘Purpurea’ 31, 121

W
wallflowers 35, 84, 96, 97, 98, 111; see also Erysimum
walls: climbing plants 31, 69, 92–3; construction 60–1; fixings 69, 93;
overhanging plants 16; retaining walls 16
walnut 101
water avens 77
water butts 79, 138
water conservation 134, 138–9
water features 25, 36–7, 52, 72–7
water hyacinth 77
water lettuce 77
water mint 77
water plants 76–7; deep-water 76–7; marginal 77; oxygenators 76;
underwater 76; undesirable 77
waterlilies 76–7
wayfaring tree 103
Weigela 91; W. ‘Florida Variegata’ 86; W. florida ‘Wine and Roses’
91
western red cedar 103
wide, shallow gardens 29
wild flowers 77
wildlife gardening 23, 36–7, 76, 115, 139
willow 35, 38, 48, 57, 89
window boxes 79
windy gardens 14, 33, 132–3
winter 111, 124–5
winter aconite 23, 125
winter sweet 23, 111
Wisteria sinensis 31, 93
woodland plants 118–19

X, Y, Z
yellow flag 77
yew 35, 42, 79, 100, 102–3; see also Taxus baccata
Yucca 82, 90; Y. filamentosa ‘Bright Edge’ 20, 32, 86, 121
Zantedeschia aethiopica 78; Z.a. ‘Crowborough’ 77
zinnias 96
Acknowledgements
BBC Books and OutHouse would like to thank the following for
their assistance in preparing this book: Andrew McIndoe for his
advice and guidance; Helena Caldon for picture research; Frederika
Stradling for proofreading; Marie Lorimer for the index.
Picture credits
The page references in these picture credits correspond to the
printed edition from which this ebook was created.

Key t = top, b = bottom, l = left, r = right, c = centre

All photographs by Jonathan Buckley except the following:

Julia Brittain 18l, 34t, 112bc, 113br, 131br

The Garden Collection Andrew Lawson 40, 73t, 131bc

iStockphoto 83r

Thanks are also due to the following designers and owners whose
gardens appear in the book:

Marylyn Abbott, West Green House, Hampshire 106bl. Maureen

Allen, St John’s Road, Walsall 8, 29. Gill Brown 104t. Declan
Buckley 28, 46. Beth Chatto, Beth Chatto Gardens, Essex 2–3, 15,
42, 85b, 89t, 117t, 136. Mhairi Clutson 112tl. Coughton Court,
Warwickshire 115tr. Veronica Cross 98l. Katherine Crouch 47, 110bl.
Frances Denby 49. Helen Dillon, The Dillon Garden, Dublin 73t.
Fergus Garrett 31b. Stephen Firth & Chichester College students,
RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2005 32t. James Fraser 45r. Diarmuid
Gavin 33, 55, 64. Graham Gough, Marchants Hardy Plants, East
Sussex 122t. Alan Gray & Graham Robeson, East Ruston Old
Vicarage, Norfolk 30b. Maurice Green 11. Robin Green & Ralph
Cade 31t, 79l. Growing Ambition, RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2008
112cl. Bunny Guinness 52b, 61. Diana Guy, Welcome Thatch,
Dorset 79r. Sue Hayward, RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2008 139l.
Simon Hopkinson 73b. Wendy & Leslie Howell 17, 132. Kevin
Hughes 126. Paul Kelly 9, 44, 57l. Virginia Kennedy, Rosendale
Road, London 30t, 66tr, 100tr, 109br, 113rtl, 113rtr. Rani Lall 25, 52t,
53, 100br. Pam Lewis, Sticky Wicket, Dorset 37bl, 86b, 113br;
Christopher Lloyd, Great Dixter, East Sussex 16t, 17tl, 41br, 76, 84,
98r, 99, 100bl, 114bl, 121, 124, 125ct. John Massey, Ashwood
Nurseries, Staffordshire 21, 88, 105tr, 113ct, 118l, 118r, 130. Bob
Parker, Broad Lane, Wolverhampton, Staffordshire 138. Dan
Pearson 89c. Mr & Mrs Guy Rasch, Heale House Garden, Wiltshire
112cb. Sarah Raven, Perch Hill, East Sussex 35, 56, 60, 96l, 97b,
114cr. Nick Ryan 54. Pam Schwerdt & Sibylle Kreutzberger 80.
David & Mavis Seeney 90b, 102t. Haruko Seki & Makoto Saito, RHS
Chelsea Flower Show 2008 41bl. Shalden Park House 113tl. Gill
Siddell 51r. Carol & Malcolm Skinner, Eastgrove Cottage Garden
Nursery, Worcestershire 34b, 43br, 83, 102b. Penny Smith 12.
Deirdre Spencer 114br. Sue & Wol Staines, Glen Chantry, Essex 90t,
113cb. June Streets 38. Mrs Stuart-Smith, Serge Hill, Hertfordshire
107br. Tom Stuart-Smith: 105tl; RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2005
111. Joe Swift & Sam Joyce for The Plant Room 16b, 45l, 50b, 62r,
92, 105b, 128r. Alan Titchmarsh 112tc, 112r. Xa Tollemache, RHS
Chelsea 1997 40. Sue Ward, Ladywood, Hampshire 24, 51l, 78, 86t.
Derry Watkins, Special Plants, Wiltshire 117b. Wayford Manor,
Somerset 10, 89br, 93c. Cleve West 39t. West Dean Gardens, West
Sussex 87t, 107t. Kim Wilde & Richard Lucas, RHS Chelsea Flower
Show 2005 57r. Gay Wilson 22b, 101t. Stephen Woodhams 114tr.
Sandy Worth, Water Meadow Nursery, Hampshire 4–5, 74–5. Helen
Yemm: Eldenhurst, East Sussex 13, 22t, 26, 36, 70l, 72, 112bl;
Ketley’s, East Sussex 5, 14, 50t, 58t, 70br, 81, 87b 104b, 106tr,
113cr, 116, 134; London 27.
This ebook is copyright material and must not be copied, reproduced, transferred,
distributed, leased, licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically
permitted in writing by the publishers, as allowed under the terms and conditions under
which it was purchased or as strictly permitted by applicable copyright law. Any
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publisher’s rights and those responsible may be liable in law accordingly.

Epub ISBN 9781448142071

Version 1.0

BBC Books, an imprint of Ebury Publishing

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London SW1V 2SA

BBC Books is part of the Penguin Random House group of companies whose addresses
can be found at global.penguinrandomhouse.com

Copyright © Alan Titchmarsh 2009

Alan Titchmarsh has asserted his right to be identified as the author of this work in
accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988

First published by BBC Books in 2009

www.eburypublishing.co.uk

A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

ISBN 978 1 84 6073977

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT & PROJECT MANAGEMENT: Elizabeth Mallard-Shaw, Sue

Gordon
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Julia Brittain
PROJECT EDITORS: Lindsey Brown, Anna Kruger
ART DIRECTION: Sharon Cluett, Robin Whitecross
SERIES DESIGN: Sharon Cluett
DESIGNER: Louise Turpin
ILLUSTRATOR: Lizzie Harper
PHOTOGRAPHS: Jonathan Buckley except where credited otherwise