The Eclectic Charm of Haarlem
New York’s Harlem got its name in the days when New York was called New Amsterdam and part of a Dutch colony. When the Brits took over, they renamed New Amsterdam New York, but Harlem remained. Back in Holland the original Haarlem gradually lost its importance. But the remnants of its glorious past can still be found everywhere. A staggering 4,000 plus monuments attest to that.
Haarlem was granted city rights in 1245. The town flourished and became one of the most important places in The Netherlands in the next centuries and held a key position during the 80 year war. In 1583 the Spanish troops besieged the city for months, forcing the starving citizens to surrender when provisions ran out.
The resistance was led by Holland’s first famous feminist: Kenau Hasselaar. Although not always meant as a compliment these days, the Dutch still use the word ‘kenau’ to describe a strong, militant woman.
There are some remarkable historical buildings in Haarlem; some more than 800 years old. On the Grote Markt (Big Market) you’ll find the medieval Town Hall with its Guardhouse and the St Bavo Church. The former fish market now houses museum of modern art. But even the less famous houses and stores around the market square offer a lovely backdrop for a selfie or two. A must see are Haarlem’s beguinages, where poor widows were offered living quarters in small houses around courtyards. The oldest one dates back to 1395.
Museum lovers have a wide variety of choices. There is a museum about the 17th century painter Frans Hals for example, and museum dedicated to the typical Dutch street organ.
The Corrie ten Boomhuis is the house of the Ten Boom family, restored to how it was during WWII. The family hid and smuggled out dozens of Jewish refugees. They were betrayed and arrested in 1944 and send to concentration camps. Only Corrie survived. She wrote several books about the activities of her family in wartime.
My favorite part of Haarlem is the early 19th century train station, that was renovated and redecorated in the early 20th century. The station is full of fascinating decorations, beautiful woodwork and well preserved spaces. Arriving there by train was a treat in itself and I actually smiled when it was announced that the train back home was delayed a bit.
At only a 20 minute train ride from Amsterdam, Haarlem offers a wonderful escape from the dense crowds and overpopulated tourist attractions.
Downloads about museums and city walks are available on the website of Haarlem’s Tourist Information Office. http://www.haarlemmarketing.co.uk/plan-your-visit/leaflets-and-routes
Comments, questions or suggestions are more than welcome. You can contact Mickey Welsh at mewelsh@gannett.com. You can follow "Wish I Was There" on Facebook for a daily dose of Europe at www.facebook.com/travelmickey1.