ESXENCE 2024: Roasted Hazelnuts, Neapolitan Wafers, and Shortbread in Corylus Arte Profumi
Niche Perfumery

by Anastasia Privalova
03/29/24 22:00:02 ( 2 comments )

During my "vacanze romane" last year, I enjoyed visiting the Arte Profumi store on Via dei Coronari. The Iannone family, known for their hospitality, made me feel right at home. After exploring the collection of over thirty fragrances, I was immediately drawn to the tobacco-floral Habanera and the minty-absinthe Bohemien. It is impossible not to fall in love with the intricate sillage of these fragrances. Additionally, Myrrhe Extrême and Harem Soiree anchored the majesty of Rome in my memories: the timeless city in its beauty and splendor. The sun-drenched streets, bubbling with youthful vigor and bustling with an endless flow of tourists, blend seamlessly with a history that spans millennia.

The Iannone family has been involved in the perfume retail business for decades. Since 2013, Michele Iannone, his wife Monica, and sister Mariagrazia have been releasing fragrances under Arte Profumi. The brand's collection resembles a gallery of 32 portraits with Baroque excess and theatrical exaggeration. Among them are the resinous-woody Samharam, Artissima, with its citrus notes and creamy florals, and Sine Tempore, whose dark green bottle hints at the grassy, earthy, smoky character of vetiver. To get a sense of the brand's style, try the balsamic Myrrhe Extrême and the molasses-like Harem Soiree with honeyed rose and salty ambergris: this is a match made in heaven. Despite the distinct character of these compositions, they are recommended to be layered together, though this idea may seem superfluous.The Arte Profumi portfolio also includes successful gourmand experiments. The amber-vanilla Bisquit predictably smells like pastries with candied fruits and aged cognac. Another edible composition is the chocolate-spicy Velvet Rouge, with hints of mandarin, coffee, chili, and licorice. Sucre Noir also falls into the sweet category. Inside the matte-black glass bottle is confectionery vanilla.

The Roman perfume house is known for not following the major trends. Yet it embraced the fashion for pyrazines and introduced a nutty fragrance, Corylus, at the last Esxence 2024 exhibition. As its Latin name suggests, the new scent is dedicated to freshly roasted hazelnuts. For those who have missed their tart, buttery aroma, this new offering from the Italian niche brand is a kaleidoscope of desserts featuring the forest harvest. 

Corylus represents the neo-gourmand genre, one of the most interesting and dynamic in the contemporary industry. Its distinction from classical compositions lies in creating unusual accords, which are not only related to desserts. Corylus reminds me of a sweet treat for the tea break, but it is subtle and well-balanced with spicy, savory, and toasted notes.

Arte Profumi's latest creation has a delicious sweet-salty profile, lightly caramelized but predominantly characterized by roasted nuts. Inside the luxurious amethyst-colored bottle are Neapolitan wafers filled with hazelnut and chocolate cream. Corylus also features the characteristic gentle butteriness of cookies, a crumbly shortbread texture, and the bright taste of thick, salty caramel, leaving the taste buds in ecstasy. Meanwhile, the composition avoids being overly sweet, thanks to spices, the distinctive shade of roasted nuts, and anise, which imparts a sense of airiness and a slight wet effect — as if you're pairing the dessert with an herbal infusion.

Within 15-20 minutes, Corylus becomes lighter and fresher. The hints of buttercream and crumbly shortbread gradually fade, giving way to a prominent hazelnut accord accompanied by anise and dried fruits. The base reveals a delicate vetiver and a deep, spicy, slightly liqueurous vanilla aroma. 

Arte Profumi's Corylus is light-hearted, comfortable, and pleasant. At the same time, the brand remains true to its recognizable, distinctly Italian style: the fragrance is bright, rich, straightforward, and full of energy and vitality. It successfully evokes the associations intended by the manufacturer, though, at times, it may seem overly edible. To dial down its confectionary sweetness, it could benefit from the deeper, darker tones of vetiver, aromatic herbs, or spices. This is not the experimental Méchant Loup by L'Artisan Parfumeur, where forest nuts are scattered among the mighty above-ground roots of ancient trees, lost in dense meadow grass. Corylus is more straightforward and accessible, comfortable to wear, and clearly aimed at a younger audience. It has the potential to be a commercial hit and a fragrance that could introduce people unfamiliar with the brand to its older releases. It will also appeal to those who prefer mainstream gourmand scents but are tired of the prevalence of burnt sugar and milk chocolate and are looking for something more refined. If you enjoy Passeggiata in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II or What About Pop The House of Oud, then Corylus is worth trying.