Mariketty Grana is an intimidating powerhouse. But about two and half seconds after meeting her, you realise that this Goa restaurant legend just wants to feed people!
I have stood in line in the sweltering heat of the Anjuna Flea Market to eat her souvlaki, drooled over the grill when Chapora was booming, enjoyed some of the best sunsets Goa has to offer when she had her first iconic restaurant in Vagator, mourned for her when it had to shut down, celebrated when she found an even better location with even better sunsets in Siolim, cheered her on even when old-timers rolled their eyes at the belly-dancing and Bollywood music that make Thalassa Siolim one of the biggest tourist attractions in Goa today, because, she is one HELL of a #bosslady.
“It’s always been my dream to have a restaurant bang on the beach”, says Mariketty, eyes shining (she has just become a grandma to little Elios).
“When will you retire, Mariketty?” I nervously ask. Spiro, her son and his partner Sonia have been instrumental in the setting-up, running and general vibe-establishing of what looks like a very fresh avatar of what a beach club in Morjim in Goa should look like (think Ibiza-slick meets Bali-thatch). This is her retirement plan, to be able to sit on the beach with her dog Mojo, feed people, and watch the next generation take over and hang out with her grandson at a peaceful location. And what a location it is.
Unlike its money maker in Siolim which is packed with tables (that Mariketty admits to not being able to pass through), Thalassa Beach feels expansive, exclusive and private with cabanas and tables and swing beds scattered about. The bar runs along the side of a walkway, offering cocktails based on the various hues of the sun, made from cold-pressed juices and homemade syrups, imagined by mixologist Viju Raj of XO Deliceux.
I ask him what he would recommend if I wanted to start drinking at breakfast and continue till sunset, which is obviously what beach days in Goa are meant for. He starts me off with the Thalassa Kanela, a delicious, thick, smoothie-like bourbon, prunes, apple jam, coconut milk and cinnamon-based cocktail which I would gladly drink for breakfast (hey, it even has digestion-kickstarting prunes). We also try the Morning Sun, a ginger-infused gin with a dollop of mango and basil sorbet, which indeed looks very sunshine-like.
The Versatile Beach Cocktail, a sweet tamarind, ginger-cumin vodka-based drink—that does in fact look like a bright summer day on the beach—is topped with cold pressed pineapple juice and some chilli pineapple in a little banana leaf boat. It was definitely my favourite, even though it doesn’t really go with Greek food at all. Another cocktail hero-ing local ingredients is the Star of Goa, made with feni, kokum, chilli & curry leaves, which shows the palate and the direction Goa is taking in its culinary endeavours.
Let’s get to the food. Thalassa is known for simple, Greek fare, most of it grilled and oregano/tomato/lime based. The Brie-wrapped filo pastry is delicious (they make their own filo which is no mean feat!) but way too heavy for a sultry beach evening. Same with the Lamb Dolmadakia (ground lamb wrapped in grape vine leaves, which I would rather be eating in a more temperate climate with a glass of red). But wait! If you think this is just a repeat of all the Thalassa classics, there are some seafood specials that Thalassa Beach offers up for redemption.
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We get to sample the gigantic seafood platter—with rosy pink prawns dripping with garlic butter, giant mussels briny with white wine, crunchy calamari balls (a revelation, best thing on the platter!), everyone’s favourite crispy calamari, a tuna dip, some smoked salmon and avocado filo cups and a generous Kingfish fillet. We cannot finish it all. The seafood is just out of the water and is treated with humble respect. No fireworks, no fanfare, just enough seasoning and quantity to make it feel extremely luxurious.
We also have a Kingfish in Bourdetto sauce, a dish from Mariketty’s home island of Corfu, that she says is her biggest seller amongst domestic tourists, with its spicy, olive and tomato-based sauce.
Goa is going through an evolution, a smartening up of sorts. No longer are people content with overly strong but terrible cocktails or simple Goan food on the beach. If Amber Cocktail Bar or Vaayu Kula attest to this change in their new smoothie-surf avatars, Thalassa takes it up a notch in its unapologetically, Insta-friendly OTT avatar. I have no doubt that they are going to kill it. And I will be cheering Mariketty on from the side as they do.
Meal for two with alcohol: Rs2,500. Thalassa Beach Resort, survey no. 215/4, Ashwem Village, Morjim, Ashwem Road, Goa - 403519. Contact: 8956190753.
