Southern Cyprus is an ancient land, famous for its archaeological sites and beautiful beaches. Nowadays, the process of joining the EU has given the island a new confidence; and in much the same way as Greece, there has been a subtle shift towards a more sophisticated, international outlook. The tourist town of Ayia Napa in the south-east first put Cyprus on the map as a cheap package holiday destination in the late 1970s and the island has struggled with this reputation ever since. When Paphos was first developed for tourism, the authorities were more circumspect with regard to planning permission, and the town is considered more upmarket than Ayia Napa, with palm tree-lined boulevards, dozens of restaurants, stunning archaeological gems - including the ruins of an ancient city - vast, frescoed tombs, Byzantine monasteries and golden beaches.
Where to stay in Paphos
ALMYRA
Poseidonos Avenue, Paphos (00 357 2693 3091; fax: 2694 2818; www.thanoshotels.com). The 190-room Almyra is part of the Thanos Hotels group - which includes The Annabelle in Paphos and Anassa in Polis. It opened in 2004 and has quickly become the hippest place to stay on the island. It attracts a young, mostly British, crowd, many with children. The interiors are cool and minimalist but the staff are warm and friendly. The heart of the hotel is the lobby/bar, a vast, slate-floored space furnished with white sofas, burnt-orange chairs, white-pebble lampshades suspended above dark-wood tables, and semi-circular alcoves upholstered in white leather. Bedrooms are furnished in a similar style, with the addition of huge, white-linen-draped beds. There is a large, freshwater swimming pool, flanked by daybeds with muslin awnings. There is also an excellent Japanese-fusion poolside restaurant, Notios, run by Rob Shipman, who was poached from London's Nobu. £££
ANNABELLE
Paphos (00 357 2693 8333; fax: 2694 5502; www.thanoshotels.com). The oldest member of the Thanos group, the 218-room Annabelle is next door to its groovy younger sister hotel, the Almyra. It has a loyal, mostly British clientele. Service is of a consistently high standard and the staff are very friendly. A large, heated swimming pool weaves through the tropical gardens. There are tennis courts, a large spa and extensive kids' facilities. £
INTERCONTINENTAL APHRODITE HILLS RESORT HOTEL
Paphos (00 357 2682 9000; fax: 2682 9001; www.cyprus.intercontinental.com). This newly opened hotel has 290 rooms, contemporary in style, with hand-carved wooden furniture. There are four restaurants. A shuttle service takes guests to the beach, which is across a busy main road. Very fitness-oriented (the British Olympic team used the resort's training facilities), the hotel has an enormous pool, 11 tennis courts, a Cabell B Robinson-designed 18-hole golf course and a huge spa. ££
PAPHOS AMATHUS BEACH HOTEL
Poseidonos Avenue, Paphos (00 357 2688 3300; fax: 2688 3333; www.pamathus.com). This is a big resort hotel with 273 comfortable, chintzy bedrooms and a family-friendly, cruise-ship atmosphere. There is a very large swimming pool set among acres of landscaped grounds including extensive lawns for sunbathing. There's also a spa, five restaurants, three bars and a beach that is rocky in some places and sandy in others. £
THALASSA HOTEL
Coral Bay, Paphos (00 357 2662 3222; fax: 2688 1700; www.thalassa.com.cy). The 58-room Thalassa hotel opened in 2004 on a headland overlooking Coral Bay, 15 minutes' drive north of Paphos. The lobby is shady and cool, and the bar opens onto a large terrace furnished with sofas. Beyond that are the swimming pool and sun deck, from which there are gorgeous views of beaches to the left and the open Mediterranean Sea to the right. There are superb views from the bedrooms, too. The rooms are simply furnished with sofas, armchairs and glass-topped tables, and sun loungers on the spacious balconies. Thalassa has two restaurants: the alfresco Seafood Grill, and Ambrosia, which serves contemporary Cypriot food. A personal butler is included in the price of the room. The holistic spa was designed by Barry Warrington, who was once Princess Diana's personal trainer and the spa manager at Chiva Som in Thailand. ££££
THE ELYSIUM
Queen Verenikis Street, Paphos (00 357 2684 4444; fax: 2684 4333;
www.elysium.com.cy). On a headland at the northern end of Paphos, between the ancient ruins of Paphos and the Tombs of the Kings, is The Elysium beach resort. The 250-room resort is approached via a drawbridge, an arch and a glitzy reception area. Most of the bedrooms are in two wings off the main building, with the rest in a smaller, adults-only building with its own swimming pool. They range from doubles to a two-bedroom Royal Suite. There are four restaurants: Epicurean, which serves good, affordable fare; Cava, the formal, fine-dining option, which offers a more adventurous, Mediterranean-meets-Asian menu in a barrel-vaulted room lit with wrought-iron candelabras; and two alfresco restaurants, Mediterraneo and Lemonia Piazza. There are also two cafés, two bars and a an excellent spa. £
What to see in Paphos
Just north of Paphos, pristine sandy beaches dot the coastline, some of them home to leatherback turtles. Inland, forest-covered mountains are carpeted with orchids, dark-red Cyprus tulips, rare crocuses and pretty pink thistles, depending on the season, and there are little grape-growing villages and frescoed Byzantine monasteries to explore. The island's rich cultural heritage is easily accessible. Just five minutes' walk from the hectic main boardwalk in Paphos are the ruins of its ancient city, Nea Paphos, a huge archaeological site which includes a medieval fortress, a 4th-century church, a Roman villa with stunning mosaic floors, and two vast, frescoed tombs from the early Hellenistic period. NEA PAPHOS Nea Paphos, or New Paphos, is the name given to the sprawling archaeological site that occupies the western segment of Kato Paphos, north of the harbour and west of Leoforos Apostolou Pavlou. This is the ancient city of Paphos, which was founded in the late 4th century BC when Cyprus was part of the kingdom of the Ptolemies, the Graeco-Macedonian rulers of Egypt whose capital was in Alexandria. Nea Paphos became an important strategic outpost for the Ptolemies, and the settlement grew considerably during the next seven centuries. The current archaeological sites are being slowly excavated, as it is believed that there are still many treasures yet to be discovered. You can easily spend half a day exploring the sites. AGORA, ASKLIPIEION AND ODEION The Agora, or forum, and Asklepieion date back to the 2nd century AD and constitute the heart of the original Nea Paphos city complex. Paphos' second most popular attraction is an impressive collection of intricate and colourful mosaics in the southern sector of the archaeological park immediately to the south of the Agora. Discovered by accident in 1962, excavations carried out by the Department of Antiquities brought to light remains of a large and wealthy residence from the Roman period with exquisite coloured mosaics decorating its extensive floor area. Subsequently named the House of Dionysos due to the large number of mosaics featuring the god of wine, this complex is the largest and most well-known of the mosaic houses. A short walk away are the smaller Villa of Theseus, a 2nd-century private residence, and House of Aion, a purpose-built structure made from recycled stones found on the site and housing a panel of 4th-century mosaics. HRYSOPOLITISSA CHURCH & ST PAUL'S PILLAR This fairly extensive site, still being excavated, was home to one of Paphos' largest religious structures. What is left are the foundations of a Christian basilica (built in the 4th century) which aptly demonstrate the size and magnificence of the original church. TOMB OF THE KINGS Paphos' most popular and most impressive site is the Tomb of the Kings, a World Heritage Site which is 2km north of Kato Paphos. It contains a set of well-preserved underground tombs and chambers used as a necropolis by residents of Nea Paphos during the Hellenistic and Roman periods from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century AD. The name 'Tombs of the Kings' reflects the majestic appearance of the tombs rather than any royal pedigree of the people buried there. BYZANTINE MUSEUM Worth visiting for its collection of icons from the 13th and 14th centuries. Open 9am- 7pm Mon-Fri (9am- 5pm from Oct to May) and 9am-2pm on Saturday.
How to get to Paphos
AIRPORT Paphos' international airport is 8km south-east of Paphos. Many charter flights and some scheduled flights arrive and depart from here. AIRLINES FROM THE UK British Airways (0844 493 0787; www.ba.com).
When to go to Paphos
Cyprus has the longest summer in Europe, with warm, dry weather from April to October. To beat the crowds, visit its ancient sites and new hotels early in the season, in May.