Haarlem may not be as famous as its one-A namesake neighborhood in New York City, but that's good news for travelers who want to experience a slice of the Netherlands without the hustle and bustle of Amsterdam. The city, which is sometimes nicknamed "little Amsterdam" for its similar aesthetic to the Dutch capital—look for tall, thin wooden houses lining canals and be-suited businessmen whizzing by on their bicycles—is largely off the radar for many tourists, meaning you're likely to get the place all to yourself. Its small size and easy walkability also make it a great option if you have a layover at Schiphol Airport, and you can cover much of the 12 square miles' worth of ground in just a few hours' time.
What to See and Do
It's no secret that the Dutch love their beer. Before Rotterdam or Amsterdam became known as cities for beer lovers, it was Haarlem where master brewers came to learn their trade in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Now, the spotlight is back, thanks largely to Jopenkerk, which has been scooping up medals at the World Beer Awards since its launch in 1996. Not only is Jopenkerk's beer—ranging from a chocolate-infused stout to a surprisingly not over-hoppy IPA—eminently drinkable, the brewery itself is worth visiting, as it's housed in a converted 14th-century cathedral. (Want to skip the full sampler? Head straight for the Bokbier, which was named the country's best brown beer when it was released in 2015.) Now that you're sufficiently warmed up, it's time to check more items off your "Dutch clichés" list. Get your windmill fix at Molen (Windmill) de Adriaan, then take in some history at the Corrie Ten Boom house, where a devout Christian family hid Jews during World War II. Ten Boom, who was imprisoned during the war at age 52 due to her activities in the Resistance, later wrote her memoirs and became a Dutch national heroine—it's similar to visiting the Anne Frank House, but with more solitude and space to reflect.
Get There
Haarlem is approximately 11 miles west of Amsterdam. Its main station, Haarlem Centraal (yes, those pesky As again) is a stop on trains from Amsterdam's Centraal station en route to The Hague, and you can also get there directly from Amsterdam's Sloterdijk station in the city's northwest, which is where you'll need to transfer if coming via Schiphol Airport. Nearly everyone in Holland speaks English, and bus and train employees are happy to help you out if you get lost. Once you arrive at Haarlem Centraal, begin walking south—you'll cross over the canal bridge and will soon see the Grote Kerk church in the town's main square—if you're lucky and visiting on a weekend, the country's best farmers' market will be there as well. Save room for stroopwafels—not to mention cheese, homemade bread, and produce straight from the farm. If you're heading back to the airport, you have the perfect excuse for noshing it all in one enormous sitting.
