Review: Arthaus Beirut

Why book? A social hub as much as a stylish place to stay, this art-centric spot is perfect for authenticity and adventure in an elegant yet low-key setting.

Set the scene: In an alley off the main street in arty Gemmayze, Arthaus is made up of four restored Ottoman-era stone buildings that preserve the spirit of old Beirut. The city’s creative talent and globetrotting entrepreneurs treat this as their base.

The backstory: Owner Nabil Debs left behind city life in the U.K. for Beirut’s vibrant art scene. The former hedge-fund manager and his wife Zoe painstakingly restored his family’s estate, passed down through the generations, to add to their portfolio of art-centric hotels and guesthouses in Berkshire, Megève and soon Havana, Cuba. On the day the hotel in Beirut was due to launch in August 2020, an ammonium-nitrate explosion tore through the city, bringing much of the area to rubble and tragically killing more than 200 people. Now, Arthaus is slowly reopening, thanks to fundraisers and charity auctions that have helped the space build back.

The rooms: Some rooms are large with lofty arched ceilings and hidden nooks, while the smaller options feel more like a bedroom in a stately private home, with original tiles and lots of windows.

Food and drink Served wherever you are on the property, breakfast is a generous spread of traditional Lebanese foul mudammas and labneh laid out on Villeroy & Boch tableware, while dinner spotlights carnivorous classics of foie gras and Black Angus short ribs. And the house mixologist has come up with original drinks—try the Nabih Berri, a gin-based cocktail named after a controversial local politician.

The spa The hotel gym does double duty as a spa area, with two excavated vaults housing a steam room and hot tub. Guests can also request in-room treatments, but the ultimate hammam experience requires a day trip to the renowned L’Espace Al Bustan in Beit Mery, a town about 30 minutes outside of Beirut. The concierge can plan your visit and arrange special rates.

The neighborhood: Arthaus is set in the historic Gemmayze neighborhood, a residential and commercial hub, so there are countless lively bars and restaurants with pretty outdoor seating nearby. While the hotel is a quiet space away from the buzz, just outside the gates you’ll find a diverse crowd that includes street vendors, workers restoring the street’s blast-damaged buildings, Beirut’s creatives and a steady trickle of international travelers.

The service: Ask and you shall receive: Young, friendly staff will accommodate any request and are always nearby. No front desk means a hassle-free check-in and convenient in-room check-out.

Anything left to mention? Art lovers will be wowed by the owners’ permanent collection, including works by Cuban artist Sussurro and Romania’s Sandu Darie. Debs also organizes exhibitions and events throughout the year, which take place in the semi-open-air gallery off the pretty central courtyard.