The Giant Or Jumbo Class Of Hostas

Row of 'Sum and Substance' Hosta at Chicago Botanical Gardens

Row of ‘Sum and Substance’ Hosta at Chicago Botanical Gardens


The “Giant” class of hostas is aptly named. Cultivars in this class are novelties. Their enormous leaves and plant sizes (height and spread) definitely will make a bold statement in any garden.

To attain their glorious best in plant majesty and leaf size, each cultivar must have a compost-rich, moist, well-drained soil with pH between 5.5 and 7.5. Moderate shade to dappled sunlight is the rule. Morning sun (where tolerable) may help to intensify the leaf color(s) of some. Intense afternoon sun is usually harmful, particularly on powdery blue leaf types. Clumps should be regularly fertilized and irrigated according to soil moisture needs. Five of the most popular cultivars are listed below:

Sum and Substance- 3 feet tall and 6 feet wide
Komodo Dragon- 2 1/2 feet tall and 7 feet wide
Empress Wu- 4 feet tall and 7 feet wide
Titanic- 2 1/2 feet tall and 6 feet wide
Blue Mammoth- 3 feet tall and 5 feet wide

‘Sum and Substance’… struts glossy heavily-textured green-gold leaves; near-white lilac flowers stand 6 or more inches above the foliage in late July. Foliage turns brighter gold in full morning sun in USDA hardiness zone 6. (2004 Hosta of the Year).

‘Komoda Dragon’…forms a mound of dark green, heavily rippled leaves. Four feet tall floral scapes of lavender arise in midsummer.

‘Empress Wu’…this hybrid of ‘Big John’ features heavy-textured, quilted, heart-shaped leaves that are topped by lavender flowers in mid-summer.

‘Titanic’…displays thick, glossy, prominently veined, green-centered leaves edged by a wide chartreuse margin. Lavender flowers appear from late July into early August. It is a sport of H. ‘Sum and Substance’.

‘Blue Mammoth’…features very large chalky-blue leaves that are heavily quilted and proven slug resistance. White flowers emerge in July.

These hosta giants standout as nice single specimen by themselves or plantd behind smaller growing shade-loving plants in your garden.

Tall Sedum – The New Mailbox Plant

Planting Of Tall Sedums Around Mailbox

Tall sedums (Sedum x spectabile) are a popular late summer blooming perennial often nicknamed “showy stonecrops” (USDA hardiness zones 3-9). Members of the succulent plant family, tall sedums have thick round leaves and are recognized for their drought resistance. Star shaped flowers are clustered in colors ranging from whites, pinks, and reds, depending on the cultivar. Bloom clusters attract bees and butterflies.

Sedums are best grown in full sun but can cope with half day or less of sun. Numbers of flower buds in clusters are less and stems tend to be floppy when planted in shady garden areas. They thrive in average well-drained soil with neutral to slightly alkaline pH. Old-timey cultivars tend to flop late in the summer and need staking. Avoid this problem by cutting plant(s) back by half in early June.

Sedums are best divided every 3 or 4 years. They are also easy to propagate from stem or leaf cuttings. Cuttings set in the summer root quickly in sand or perlite. Disease problems are rare and mealybugs, scales, slugs, and snails are occasional pests.

For decades ‘Autumn Joy’ (‘Herbstfreude’) has been the popular favorite. Here are six other tall sedums (hybrids of S. spectabile and S. telephium) to try:

‘Autumn Fire’- dusty-rose (August) to red (October) flowers on 18-24 inches tall on sturdy stems.
‘Brilliant’- compact 16-18 inch high plant and hot pink flowers.
‘Matrona’- bright pink flowers, purple stems on 24 inch high plant.
‘Neon’- dense flower clusters with deep rose color compared to ‘Brilliant’, a sister sibling.
‘Stardust’- plants 18 inches high, open to large silvery white flowers, aging to pinkish tinge.
‘T-Rex’- light rose pink aging to dark pink flowers atop 26-28 inches tall and 18 inches wide. Very upright branching and leaf edges sharply toothed.

Four Old Fashioned Hostas Continue To Delight

'Krossa regal' (blue-green) & 'Piedmont Gold' hostas at Kingwood Center, Mansfield, Ohio

‘Krossa regal’ (blue-green) & ‘Piedmont Gold’ hostas at Kingwood Center, Mansfield, Ohio


'Sieboldii Elegans' hosta at Indianapolis Museum of Art gardens in Indianapolis, IN

‘Sieboldii Elegans’ hosta at Fine Art Museum gardens in Indianapolis, IN

During my annual summer travel to public gardens around the U.S., several clumps of old-timey hostas that were popular in the 1960’s and ’70’s caught my eye. These hosta beauties still own their garden place. Here are listed only four, but there are so many more.

‘Gold Standard’is an old-time favorite. In August multiple pink-lavender floral scapes up to 30 inches tall rise above a 22 inch wide plant mound. Flower fragrance is faint, never overwhelming. Summer foliage has a high gloss; yellow-gold leaf centers darken to a deep avocado shade circumvented by a medium green margin. Leaves average 8 inches in length and 6-8 inches in width. Leaf venation is average, not prominently displayed as on some cultivars.

‘Elegans’, a variety of Hosta sieboldiana, is an extra large hosta with powdery blue heart-shaped leaves. Early spring foliage is deeply textured with powdery wax coating. The white flowers peak through the July-August foliage. This large hosta measures up to 30 inches high and 48-60 inches in spread depending on its age and care.

‘Piedmont Gold’ is another large selection (20-25 inches high and 50-55 inches spread). It stands out with bright golden-yellow foliage with a dusty or powdery finish. The near-white flowers open in July. exhibits good slug resistance.

‘June’ is an medium-size hosta that sports beautiful golden yellow centered leaves streaked with a wide blue-green leaf rim. Pale lilac flowers appear in July. June has moderate slug resistant and is the most sun tolerant of the four.

Plant these cultivars in a full to moderately shady site and in moist well-drained soil. Feed hostas in early spring with a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote™ or Nutricote™. Hostas are low care perennials ideal in shady, woodland settings, tubs and patio pots, or as a single specimen or in multiples for edging beds.

Hostas are commonly divided in either spring or fall, but these four may be left alone for years.

'Gold Standard' hosta

‘Gold Standard’ hosta

Best Bluegrass Cultivars For Cool-Season Lawns

Lawn Are In Front Of Biltmore Estates, Asheville, NC


Across the northeastern U.S. and eastern Canada, cool season lawn grasses perform best. Bluegrass, often called “Kentucky bluegrass”, grows in zones with cool summer night temperatures and adequate annual rainfall. Bluegrass is not as heat and drought tolerant and a higher water use rate than tall fescue and warm-season grasses. Bluegrass performs best in moist sunny areas and red fescues and chewings fescues prosper in moist shady areas.

Because bluegrass seed is slow to germinate, it is best seeded from late August to mid-October and not in the cool spring. In mixed stands with tall fescue, bluegrass thrives in swales or sunken ground areas that tend to stay moist over extended time periods. Sod producers often mix a limited amount of bluegrass with seeds of the improved, turf-type tall fescues.

University and seed company trials of bluegrass continue to select better varieties for cool Northern regions. In the listing that follows, if a variety is not listed, it may have still performed well.

Recommended bluegrass cultivars for high-quality lawns, include Alexa II, Aura, Award, Bewitched, Barrister, Belissimo, Beyond, Diva, Everest, Everglade, Excursion, Ginney II, Granite, Impact, Midnight, NuChicago, NuGlade, NuDestiny, Rhapsody, Rhythm, Rugby, Skye, Solar Eclipse, STR 2485, Sudden Impact, Washington, and Zifandel.

Bluegrass is best fertilized in early spring and in late summer with 3-4 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet annually and irrigated over long dry periods. Expect cool season grasses to look their best in the spring and fall, and brown off (go dormant) in the hot, dry summer.

In a transition zone tall fescues possess better heat and drought tolerances than either perennial ryegrass and bluegrass. Homeowners living here frequently mix bluegrasses with tall fescues and irrigate during hot dry summer periods.

Special thanks to Dr. Tom Samples for his assistance.

Plumleaf Azalea – Late July Flowering Shrub

Plumleaf azalea in bloom at Biltmore Estate, Asheville, NC

Plumleaf azalea in bloom at Biltmore Estate, Asheville, NC

Plumleaf azalea (photo by Jay Jackson, Appalachian Native Plants, Inc. in Tennessee)

Plumleaf azalea (photo by Jay Jackson, Appalachian Native Plants, Inc. in Tennessee)


Plumleaf azalea (Rhododendron prunifolium) is a native deciduous azaleas that indigenous to the Chattahoochee River Valley on the Georgia-Alabama line (USDA hardiness zones 6-9). The bright orange-red blooms surprise in late July to early August. Compared to many of the spring blooming species, flowers are not fragrant. Fall leaf color is uneventful.

This 5-8 feet tall and wide shrub is best protected from the harsh afternoon summer sun. It grows in well-drained, compost amended soil. Plumleaf azalea prospers in the East Tennessee and Western NC calcareous clay soils without pH correction. Irrigate plants their first two years of establishment and they will reward you over many summers. Set the shrub into a wide, shallowly dug hole which has been generously amended with compost and/or peat; maintain 2-3 inches of an organically-based mulch around the shrub base.

Plumleaf azaleas are usually available from mail order companies on-line. It is best to purchase and plant them by late spring so that their fine shallow rootsystem becomes deeply knitted into the soil before winter arrives.

Plumleaf azalea is the signature plant of Callaway Gardens in Pine Mountain, Georgia where I purchased the first of three in my Tennessee garden. It is a frequent parent cross with other azalea species.

Prune shrubs anytime after blooming to maintain desired height and spread. Plumleaf azaleas bloom on new current season’s wood.

Hosta Award Winners

'Niagara Falls' Hosta with dark green, well-defined leaf veining

‘Niagara Falls’ Hosta with dark green Foliage with well-defined veining

Without question, hostas are the most popular perennial for the shade garden. Their lovely foliage provides color, texture and architecture in their garden space from April to a hard autumn frost. They are hardy, long-lived, and relatively maintenance-free.

Hostas range in size from miniature 2 to 3 inches tall types to enormous large leafy clumps 36 or more inches high and broad. Most cultivars grow in shady and semi-shady areas, but a few are sun-tolerant under frequent irrigation. Hostas are also called “plantain lilies” and “funkia”. Their white, lavender, or purple flowers are fragrant. Blooms attract passerby hummingbirds.

The American Hosta Society (AHS) keeps registration records on named cultivars, now numbering over 36,000. AHS members and commercial growers have a voice in selecting the most beautiful and best performing cultivars by region across the U.S. Each year AHS judges award one cultivar their prestigious Benedict Medal.
Benedict Medal winners:
2014 to be announced
2013 First Frost
2012 Niagara Falls
2011 Blue Mouse Ears
2010 Sagae
2009 June
2008 One Man’s Treasure
2007 Whirlwind
2006 Gold Standard

American Hosta Growers choose the Hosta of the Year Award. This outstanding cultivar performs well in most areas of the U.S. and is easy to reproduce. The Hosta of the Year Award is announced two years in advance so that garden centers and nurseries will have plants available for sale.
Hosta of the Year Award winners:
2016 Curly Fries
2015 Victory
2014 Abiqua Drinking Gourd
2013 Rainforest Sunrise
2012 Liberty
2011 Praying Hands
2010 First Frost
2009 Earth Angel
2008 Blue Mouse Ears
2007 Paradigm
2006 Stained Glass
2005 Striptease
2004 Sum and Substance

Crape Myrtle Diseases And Pests

'Hopi' Crape myrtle

‘Hopi’ Crape myrtle


Not all crape myrtle cultivars are alike. Some are more susceptible to diseases and insect pests more than others. Overall, the U.S. National Arboretum (USNA) hybrid crapemyrtles are more disease and insect resistant, but not to all problems.

Some cultivars are susceptible to aphids, usually in the spring. Their sugary excretions over leaves and stems blacken them with a sooty mold. Eventually, leaves yellow and the shrub may bloom poorly. Spray leaves with malathion, diazinon, or an ultra-fine horticultural oil when you spot aphids or the sooty mold symptom.

In late spring and summer, metallic dark green flea beetles may chew the leaf margins in an irregular pattern. Damage is usually slight and does not warrant pesticide spraying.

In late July Japanese beetles chew on the flowers and skeletonize the leaves. Many pesticides are effective to reduce Japanese beetle numbers. Hand removal works but may becomes a daily chore. Pheromone traps are largely ineffective because they attract many more Japanese beetles than they trap.

A strong stream of water from your garden hose can blasted many injurious insects off the foliage. Insecticidal soap sprays are also effective.

Powdery mildew is a fungus disease that deposits a white powdery residue over the leaves and flower buds. Symptoms are worse in high humidity, during lack of rain, and in areas with poor air circulation. If left unchecked your crape myrtle can be weakened and eventually die. Most USNA crapemyrtles are resistant to powdery mildew. Spray susceptible cultivars at the first sign of disease with Funginex™ or Immunox™ and repeat sprays as necessary. Horticultural oil has been shown to be quite effective in controlling powdery mildew.

In the deep South crapemyrtles may shed some leaves with brown spots. This is symptom of Cercospora leaf spot fungus disease during periods of warm, wet weather. In severe cases, only the youngest leaves at the ends of branches remain. Repeated annual infections by cercospora may result in loss of plant vigor and reduced flowering.

These U.S. National Arboretum introductions have some resistance to Cercospora disease: Apalachee, Caddo, Catawba, Sioux, Tonto, Tuscarora, Tuskegee, and Yuma. You can prevent this disease on a susceptible cultivars by spray any fungicide products such as Bayer Advanced Rose and Shrub® or Thiram® when leaf spotting is observed; continue applying the fungicide at weekly intervals through mid-summer.

Versatile Long-blooming Catmints

'Blue Wonder' Nepeta Growing At Kingwood Center, Mansfield, Ohio

Catmint (Nepeta spp.) is a favorite of cats who like to roll around in it, sometimes to the detriment of the plant(s) (USDA hardiness zones 3-8). There are several species of catmint. Most popular are the gray-green leafed N. x faassenii and hairy gray heart-shaped leafed N. racemosa. Depending on the cultivar selected, this versatile perennial grows 1 1/2 to 3 feet high and varying widths.

Catmint grows in average well-drained soil and in full to partial sun (6 hours minimum); shade-grown plants are floppy and flower poorly. One-year established catmints exhibit exceptional heat, drought, and humidity tolerance. Established plants prefer dry (not sopping wet), and low fertility soil.

Catmints bloom from late spring to early fall. Purple, blue, pink or white flowers (depending on species and cultivar) bloom over 3-4 weeks. Prune back plants by two-thirds in late June or July to stimulate August-September re-bloom. Catmints need to be divided every 3 – 4 years in early spring. Cutback old foliage in late winter rather than in the fall.

Plants are highly deer and rabbit resistant. Hummingbirds and numerous nectar gathering bees and butterflies visit the aromatic flowers. Foliage is seaside/salt resistant. The aromatic blooms make good cutflowers and are utilized in floral designs.

Catmint grows in flower gardens, rock and herb gardens, and in containers. Low-growing cultivars work as great edging plants in front borders and as a perennial ground cover.

Popular cultivars:
N. racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’ grows 24 to 30 inches high with blue violet sterile flowers and aromatic grey green foliage (2007 Perennial Plant Association Plant of the Year).
N. x faassenii ‘Six Hills Giant’ is a taller growing catmint (30 to 36 inches high) with dark green leaves and deep violet-purple blooms.
N. x faassenii ‘Blue Wonder’ is a compact grower (12 to 15 inch tall plant and greater spread), dark green leaves, and dark blue blooms. ‘White Wonder’ has white blooms.

Disease Resistant Crape Myrtle Cultivars

‘Apalachee’ crape myrtle trunk

'Sioux' crapemyrtle mildew resistant

‘Sioux’ crapemyrtle mildew & leaf spot resistant

Hybrid crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica x L. faurei) are popular landscape trees in the southeast and along the coastal areas of the U. S. Over the past decade plant pathologists in Louisiana (Louisiana State University), Alabama (Auburn University), South Carolina (Clemson University), and Georgia (University of Georgia) have tested the disease resistance of cultivars for powdery mildew and cercospora leaf spot resistance.

 
Only the cultivar releases from the U.S. National Arboretum are listed below. These are among the hardiest (USDA hardiness zone 6). Each is listed according to its mature plant height:

10 to 15 feet category:

Acoma – white flowers (weeping/cascading habit); light gray-brown bark; high powdery mildew and average leaf spot resistance.

Hopi – medium pink flowers; gray to brown bark; high mildew and average leaf spot resistance.

Sioux – vivid pink flowers; medium gray- brown bark; good powdery mildew and average leaf spot resistance.

Tonto – dark fuchsia flowers; light cream bark; high powdery mildew and leaf spot resistance.

16 to 20 feet category:

Apalachee – light lavender flowers; medium-brown bark; high in mildew and leaf spot resistance;

21-25 feet category

Tuscarora – coral pink flowers; light brown bark; high powdery mildew and leaf spot resistance.

Tuskegee – dark pink flowers; light gray to tan bark; high powdery mildew and average leaf spot resistance.

Over 25 feet category:

Muskogee – light lavender flowers; gray-brown bark; high resistance to powdery mildew average and leaf spot resistance.

Natchez – white flowers; dark cinnamon bark; high powdery mildew and good leaf spot resistance.

Designing With Crape Myrtle

'Dynamite' Crape Myrtle falls in 12-15 feet height category

‘Dynamite’ Crape Myrtle fits in 15-20 feet height category


Undeniably, crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica x L. faurei ) thrive in the southern U.S. (USDA hardiness zones 6-9). You see them planted on practically every street. Their showy summer flowers are spectacular. Many cultivars exhibit colorful autumn foliage, and their smooth patterned trunks and architecture grace the winter landscape.

“The right crape myrtle for the right site” is the golden rule here. Before visiting the garden center to make your purchase, measure the intended space where it will be planted. The plant tag will provide the flower color, as well as its height and spread. Is the cultivar hardy where you reside. Cultivars named after Indian tribes (there are 33 of them) are among the hardiest (several zone 6 hardy) and are resistant to some insects and diseases.

“Variety is the spice of life” and crape myrtles surely fit this adage. They serve a number of landscape uses. They make a large deciduous hedge or screen. Plant a single tree for accent or group several together for a formal hedge or screen. Will it be the right size for your site? Dwarf shrub forms as low as 3 feet and tall trees upwards of 30 feet are available.

The larger crape myrtles need room to grow. Stay a proper distance from buildings, power lines, or walkways. Medium-size types grow 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, perfect fits for small urban spaces. The dwarf selections are attractive in large containers or as part of your home foundation. Container plants will require winter protection.

Crape myrtles love sun and well-drained soil. Flower production is greatly declines in light shade and disease problems ramp up in shade. One-year established crape myrtles demonstrate above average drought tolerance.