Exploring the Abandoned Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha in Portugal
Last Updated on: 14th May 2024, 11:48 am
One of Portugal’s most amazing hidden gems lies just beyond a bridge in Coimbra, Portugal: the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha. Visiting the Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha is one of the best things to do in Coimbra, Portugal. Even amidst the incredible UNESCO World Heritage Monasteries of Portugal, Santa Clara-a-Velha stands out. The architecture is beautiful and so well preserved, and unlike some of the more crowded monasteries in Lisbon – you may even be the only one there like I was!
The Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha is a quick walk from central Coimbra. I visited Coimbra primarily to see the Santa Clara monastery and I was not disappointed! I ended up falling in love with Coimbra as a whole, and even more in love with the Monastery of Santa Clara. The abandoned monastery has a spectacular charm, and such a fascinating history.
I truly believe it’s one of the most beautiful monasteries on earth. It’s a place you will never forget!
History of the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha, Coimbra
The Mosterio of Santa Clara a Velha Coimbra (Mosteiro means Monastery in Portuguese!) was founded first in 1286.
Coimbra is a city in central Portugal, not far from the very famous Roman Catholic Shrine of Fatima and three UNESCO World Heritage listed monasteries in Portugal: Alcobaça, Batalha, and Tomar. Coimbra is famous for its University (which is reputed to be an inspiration for J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter books).
There were a few other monasteries active in Coimbra in the 13th century, but all housed men. After the Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha opened, some of the male monks in the area strongly opposed having a female monastery nearby. (Go figure!) So the original monastery had to close.
A few years later, the Queen Isabel, also known as Elizabeth of Aragon, re-opened the monastic house and had a new monastery built. Elizabeth of Aragon is now known as Saint Elizabeth of Portugal.
Saint Elizabeth of Portugal was a very religious and active queen of Portugal, often called upon to make peace between warring kings and lords. She was a member of the Third Order (Lay Order) of Franciscans and ultimately retired to Santa Clara a Velha Monastery Coimbra after her husband died, living our her life doing good deeds such as providing lodging for pilgrims, and supporting hospitals in Coimbra and nearby areas.
The Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha Coimbra was, for all intents and purposes, thriving except for one major factor: it was built right on the flood plain fo the Mondego River.
Remember how I said you have to cross a bridge from the center of Coimbra to get there? That’s the Mondego river.
The monastery flooded. Then it flooded again. Then again….and ultimately the Sisters decided they needed to move their monatery to higher ground. They abandoned the old monastery (“a Velha” means old!) and moved up the hill to the Santa Clara a Nova monastery that still exists today.
Getting to the Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha
The Santa Clara Monastery is a quick walk from the center of Coimbra. If you are spending one day in Coimbra then you will have plenty of time to visit the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha!
Coimbra is connected by train to Lisbon and to Porto. You can also rent a car and drive there. I took the train from Porto to Coimbra, then rented a car from Coimbra to drive to the UNESCO Monasteries of Alcobaça, Batalha, and Tomar.
From the center of Coimbra, the best way to get to Santa Clara a Velha Monastery is to wander down the Rue Ferreira Broges — a car-free street filled with lovely shops. From anywhere in Coimbra, make your way down the hills towards the Mondego River. Once at the river, cross at the conveniently named Santa Clara Bridge.
Once you cross the Santa Clara Bridge, you’ll head to a large roundabout and see the Santa Clara Monastery before you!
You can’t get to it that easily, though! Take a left onto the Av. Inês de Castro and walk along it until you pass a Petrol station. Shortly after that, you’ll see the car park on your right and the sign to enter the Museum and Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha!
Tip for Coimbra: Though everything looks very close on a Map in Coimbra, allow [much!] more time than you think to walk to the attractions in Coimbra. The hills and roads are never direct and even Google maps “walking” estimate was wildly inaccurate (and I’m a fast walker!). If you estimate it will take you 10 minutes to get somewhere, leave at least 20!
Hours & Admission to the Museum and Monastery of Santa Clara
Hours: The Santa Clara a Velha Monastery is open
From April 1st to October 14th:
Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 18:00
From October 15th to March 31st:
Tuesday to Sunday, from 09:00 to 17:00
The Santa Clara monastery is closed to the public on some holidays:
Monday, January 1st, Easter Day, May 1st, July 4th and December 25th.
Admission to Monastery and Museum of Santa Clara a Velha in Coimbra
The Cost for Admission is 4 Euro, 2 Euro for students with a valid card. This includes the museum and the monastery itself.
When you first enter the building, you enter the Museum. There you will see a ticket counter to your left and a lovely gift shop to the right. After purchasing your admission, you will be guided to a theatre where a short film about the history of the Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha Coimbra is shown. After the movie, you are free to explore the Monastery on your own.
Visits typically take 1 hour. I spent closer to 2 hours in the Monastery because I loved it so much!
Tip: Try to go as soon as the Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha opens. I was the only person there the morning I went, which was wonderful for taking photographs and getting a very spiritual sense of the Monastery.
The Church of the Monastery of Santa Clara
The Church of the Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha Coimbra is unique because it has stone vaulting (instead of wood), which explains why it has survived in such good condition to today!
The church is huge, modeled after the UNESCO World Heritage sight of Alcobaça. Inside the church are many surviving original tiles, and three beautiful rose windows. Today they don’t have any glass, but the oulines are gorgeous.
I love all of the exposed stone arches throughout the church.
Inside the church there is a second level. This is accessible by elevator for those with mobility issues. On this second level, the original Choir, Queen Isabel / Elizabeth of Aragon’s tomb lived until it was moved to the New Santa Clara Monastery on higher ground.
While most of the actual tombs have been removed and brought to the new monastery of Santa Clara on higher ground, you can still see the decorated chapels where they used to be.
Make sure to spend plenty of time in the church, exploring from different levels. There are incredible large windows on the second floor and a beautiful archway that has been restored with the original decorations.
The Cloisters of Santa Clara a Velha
The cloisters of the Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha were entirely destroyed and even buried by the many mudflows that resulted from the river flooding. During the restoration that led to the Monastery becoming a museum, the cloisters were excavated — but it was not possible to fully restore them.
Today they are in the open-air, but you can still see their shape and what they looked like long ago. The central fountain has survived, and you can make out the Romanesque-style vine and botanical motifs on the capitals.
It was really fun to take photos of all the details that were preserved under the mud. It was equally amazing to imagine the Sisters enjoying the cloisters way back in the 13th century!
Outside in the Cloisters, you can get an even better view of the whole church of the Santa Clara Monastery. It’s a great Instagram spot, too!
Where to Stay in Coimbra, Portugal to Visit the Santa Clara Monastery
Coimbra has a wealth of beautiful accomodation and amazing hotels — from Budget to 5 Star!
My biggest regret when I visited Coimbra to explore the Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha: I didn’t stay longer.
Most bloggers will recommend you do a day in Coimbra, and while it is possible to see a lot of Coimbra in one day, there is so much in Coimbra and of such high quality that I wish I had stayed in Coimbra longer!
Hotels in Coimbra
I stayed in Coimbra for two nights in the very central Solar Antigo Luxury hotel. I stayed in an upstairs room that was quite small but beautifully appointed (seriously, one of the loveliest hotel rooms I’ve ever stayed in!). The view was unbelievable over the rooftops of Coimbra, the shower was top-notch, and breakfast arrived each day in a very sweet basked (breakfast in bed every day!). The staff were wonderful and helpful throughout my visit, too.
Click here to check rates at the Solar Antigo Luxury Hotel!
The most famous hotel in Coimbra happens to be right by the Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha! The Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas is a renovated, 5-star property, but with rates starting at $129 USD a night it’s also “affordable luxury” for a splurge on you trip!
What’s to special about the Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas? The story of King Pedro and his love, Inès de Castro, is famous in Portugal. Sadly, Pedro’s father had Inès murdered — reportedly right in the garden of what is now the Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas, which translates to Garden of Tears. Inès is now buried at Alcobaça Monastery, alongside King Pedro, but for a long time was buried at the Monastery of Santa Clara a Velha right near where she was killed. Stay at the Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas for the comfort and luxury, and also the history.
Click here to check out a selection of reasonable hotels in Coimbra!
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One Comment
susan crooks neville
Hi Cate,
Wanted to thank you for your very helpful writeup on the Monastery of Santa Clara-a Velha in Coimbra. We went there on your advice (on a December day) and had the whole place to ourselves. It is a remarkable site and was made even more special by the chance to take it in at a slow pace. We’re very appreciative of your encouragement to come here!
Obigrada,
Susan