Wild guide Portugal by Martin Ripsam

guide

Portugal Hidden Places, Great Adventures and the Good Life Edwina Pitcher

New from the award-winning Wild Guide series, with over 700 secret adventures, hidden places and wild escapes. Taking you to places no other guidebook reaches. •

Waterfalls, river pools and blue lagoons for wild swimming

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Secret beaches, sea caves, rock stacks and islands to canoe to

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Vineyards, restaurants, fresh seafood and local produce markets

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Campsites, farm stays and luxurious retreats

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Ancient forests and amazing wildlife

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Dramatic mountain and verdant valley walks

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Prehistoric art and ancient remains

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Colourful festas and country fairs

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Mountain villages and traditional crafts

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Historic castles, lost ruins and hilltop fortresses

The Wild Guide is available as an ebook and app for iPhone and Android. Also from Wild Things Publishing:

Imagine a summer spent plunging into clear turquoise rivers, playing on hidden beaches, walking in wild flower-strewn cork forests, and tasting wine from boutique vineyards accompanied by the freshest seafood. In this explorer’s compendium you will discover the hidden treasures of Portugal’s better known tourist areas, as well as its incredible lesser-known coastal and mountain regions. Find magical places to stay and enjoy the very best local and artisan food. Experience the festas, village traditions and dramatic landscapes of this passionate country. Featuring stunning photography and engaging travel writing, this is the perfect book for families seeking new adventures off the beaten track, or those dreaming up the ultimate wild escape.

£16.99

9 781910 636114

swimming

swimming new from the publishers of swimming

Edwina Pitcher is a travel journalist, photographer and video blogger specialising in the conservation and legacy of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wilderness and wildlife. She has swum, walked, eaten and travelled extensively throughout Portugal, completing solo the 600km long pilgrim route from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela. She lives in London and Lisbon. The Wild Guide series was winner of the Travmedia Travel Guidebook of the Year 2015

Inside the Wild Guide water Wild swimming Canoeing or boating Jump or rope swing Waterfall

1 2 T =

Hidden beach

D 4 3 5 6 7

Sacred site

Snorkelling Skinny dipping Rockpools

o . ,

land & wildlife Amazing birdlife Amazing wildlife Ancient forest Magical meadow Sunset views Lost ruin

Local wine Foraging

Spooky or haunted Fossils Cave or cavern Scramble or climb

sleep

food Locally-sourced food

Prehistoric site

8 Q u n 9 E

s Y 0

Good campsite

q z c t h

Picnic spot

Bothy or bunk barn Wild camp / star gazing

d g *

general Great for kids Lovely walk Cycling Train nearby Very remote

History and heritage Entrance fee Hazards Busy or popular

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W e â&#x20AC;&#x153; w K

Portugal Hidden Places, Great Adventures and the Good Life Edwina Pitcher

Ponte de São João, p40

Contents

Map of the regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Finding your way . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Portuguese key phrases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

best for Secret beaches & coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Festas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skinny dipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Places to stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ancient & sacred . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Slow food & wine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunset hill forts & wild highs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mountain villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Picnics & foraging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32

the regions Mainland Portugal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Aรงores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256

Regional Overview 1 Viana Do Castelo

2 Serra da Peneda & Soajo

3 Serra do Gerês & Montalegre

4 Serra do Alvão & Vila Real

5 Montesinho & Bragança

6 Porto & Rio Ave

7 Arouca & Alvarenga

8 Viseu & Douro

9 Serra da Estrela & Guarda

Corvo

104

10 Aveiro & Rio Vouga

112

11 Coimbra & Arganil

122

Flores

12 Leira 132 13 Castelo Branco

Lisbo

140

Graciosa

14 Ribatejo 148 15 Peniche & Berlengas

156

16 Lisbon & Sintra

166

17 Setúbal & Rio Sado

176

18 North Alentejo: Portalegre

186

19 Central Alentejo: Évora

194

20 South Alentejo: Beja

204

21 Costa Vicentina

212

22 West Algarve: Monchique

222

23 East Algarve: Faro

230

Faial

São Jorge

Pico

Terceira

Lisb

Lisbo

Açores XX 24

p253

24 Açores 238 6

Lisbo

Ourense

Vigo

Ourense

Vigo

p53

XX 2 XX 1

Ourense

Viana Do Castelo Vigo

p45

3 LeonXX

Braganca

Viana Do Castelo

Braganca

Braga

Vila Real

Braganca

Porto Vigo XX 7

Ourense

Vigo Braga

XX 10

Vila Real

Aveiro Porto

Guarda

Vila Real

Porto

Braganca

Coimbra

15 Viseu XX

Guarda XX 12 p139

Santarem Evora

Viana Do Castelo SetubalSantarem Evora Beja Braga

SĂŁo Miguel

Setubal

Beja

Huelva Faro

Covilha

Huelva

Cordoba Badajoz

p211

Portimao

XX 22

p229 Seville

Linares Merida Japn Linares Seville

Salamanca Faro

Beja Coimbra

p203

Evora

Viseu Guarda

Portimao

Toledo

Merida

Seville

Merida

Portalegre

XX 20

Setubal

Madrid

Castelo Branco

Valladolid

Santa Maria

Aveiro

p193

Beja

Lisbon Badajoz

Sala

Toledo

XX 18

XX 19

Braganca Santarem

p221

Madrid Toledo p147

Badajoz

Merida

Evora

Portimao

Covilha

Evora

Portalegre

21 Vila Real XX

Porto

XX 13

Leon

Leiria Setubal

Badajoz p185

p111 Madrid

XX 9

Guarda Portalegre

Badajoz Lisbon Merida

Castelo Branco XX 17

bon

CovilhaValladolid

Viseu

p155 XX 14Coimbra

Portalegre Ourense

Vigo

Braganca

Castelo Branco

Santarem

p175 XX 16Covilha

Coimbra

Vila Real

p131

Aveiro

p165

p77

Guarda

Leiria

Guarda Portalegre Castelo Branco

Santarem Leiria

Setubal Leiria

Viseu

Coimbra 11 Porto XX

XX 5

Salamanca

Aveiro

p103

Braga Salamanca

Castelo Branco Covilha

Leiria

Valladolid

Aveiro Viana Do Castelo

Covilha Viseu

p95

p121

Braga Coimbra Aveiro

Vila Real Ourense

XX 8 Salamanca

Viseu

Viana Do Castelo

Leon

Valladolid

p69

2 4

6XX p87

Viana Do Castelo Porto

p61

CordobaHuelva Japn

XX 23

p237

Beja Linares Madrid

Introduction I first discovered Portugal in the autumn of 2013 by setting out on foot from Lisbon to northern Spain with an armyissue water bottle, a bivvy bag and pocket knife. Following the caminho to Santiago de Compostela, I crossed most of mainland Portugal. I felt its blue skies, its beating sun, its earthen terraces and tempestuous Atlantic winds off the ocean. Wild figs, grapevines and sweet chestnuts were ripening, weighing heavy on their stems and bowing over my path. I followed coastal tracks and mountain paths, carved into the land by pilgrims, fishermen and goatherds, and I found wide Roman flagstone roads, rutted by ancient cart grooves and overgrown with dense mossy woodland. Returning again and again to this history-rich country I have discovered that hidden Portugal, away from the muchfrequented coastal resorts, is a timeless and magical place. To the north and east there are wild mountains, sparkling lakes and glacial valleys; to the south and west there are dusty olive groves, secret beaches and hidden caves, and everywhere you will find rustic villages, standing stones, magical woodland and windswept hilltop castles. The people who still remain in its rural, wilder places continue to work the land in traditional ways, shepherd, bake bread and make wine, honey and olive oil. They are rich in spirit and nature’s harvest. Their hospitality is perennial. Waking up to birdsong, river mist and an early plunge into clear water is still my favourite way to start the day. As my personal caminho continued, often accompanied by my Portuguese friends, I have climbed to peaks and rocky summits, and seen Portugal flat as a map beneath me. From Fóia, the highest mountain of Algarve, I could see its sea-fringed edges and in Juromenha I saw the wide snaking Guadiana river defining the border with Spain. The land became my map but so did the locals’ convivial desire to help with directions. I began to fully appreciate the Portuguese phrase “if you have a tongue, you can get to Rome”. 9

Wild regions for all seasons In springtime we rambled over the hills of northern and central Portugal (chapters 1-11) Serra da Freita, Montemuro and Alvão teem with wild flowers, exploding into joyful lilacs and yellows. Heather and gorse flower over the hills and, with the blue skies, transform the horizon into a riot of endless colour. They say heaven laughs in flowers; if so, Alentejo is in fits of hysterics as the spring fields are carpeted in deep purple with lupins growing wild under the gnarled and noble cork trees. On summer days, the southern regions (chapters 12-23) are perfect. We wound down cliff tracks to secret beaches in Peniche, Alentejo and Sintra, deserted except for glimpses of the past, with rough rock-hewn fishermen’s steps dropping into deep, still inlets, perfect for a skinny dip. Summer is also a wonderful time to visit the northern and central regions. You can while away lazy days on sun-drenched sands or strike out from the beaten track to the rivers of Trás-os-Montes and Arganil (chapters 3, 5 & 11). The Portuguese culture of visiting praias fluviais – river beaches – then reaches its zenith, and Sundays are idled away on river banks, cooking lunch on the communal stone BBQs, chilling a bottle of Vinho Verde – green wine – in the sparkling river and leaping back in again after lazing in the sun. The low evening light is at its most golden in autumn. As the summer heat eases, take a long hike along the coastal paths of Costa Vicentina or shepherds’ paths through glacial valleys and over wild peaks (chapters 7-21). Autumn means harvest-time in Portugal – visit the wine-growing regions of Douro or Ribatejo to help with vindimas, the festival for harvesting grapes, trampling the fruit and, of course, drinking the wine. In winter, Serra da Estrela’s mountains are cloaked in snow with skiing pistes (chapter 9). This is the time to see the northern hills in bleak but beautiful greys, whites and greens, evocative of their ancient Lusitanian tribes. At the end of a day’s wintry adventures, our favourite thing has been bedding down in a toasty tipi overlooking the snow-capped hills of Gerês.

Local food and ancient history Portugal is as rich in adventures over mountains, lakes, rivers, sea and caves, as it is rich in the food and wine to fuel these adventures. In the mountains, feast on steaks, roast kid in a wood oven, mountain cheeses and smoked meats known as fumeiro. By the rivers, try freshwater fish. At the coast, feast on the freshest crab and grilled fish, octopus or a bubbling caldeirada fish stew. Kept in caves, cellars, sometimes even buried under lakes, are glorious Portuguese wines: sparkling Vinho Verde in the north, the darker wines of Douro and DĂŁo in central regions, the lighter reds of Ribatejo, and Alentejoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mellow vintages in the south. You will discover the best places to eat, dishes made to ancient recipes, but also rustic havens for intimate stays. Spend a week in a characterful mountain village with cobbled streets or a wild retreat on a working farm. There are treehouses built in woodlands with views of the sunrise over a river, and wilder campsites from which to stargaze. Portugal is a place woven over with paths and stories left by Celtic tribes and Moorish settlers. It is crossed by Roman trade routes and mythic pathways of the Madonna as she appeared to our predecessors. Enduring all of this are much older footprints, stamped deeper on the stone. The footsteps of dinosaurs that ran across this coast 125 million years ago appear in southern regions (chapters 12, 16, 17 & 22), an impression left as though they were here yesterday. Time collapses in these rocks. Travel to these wild places and you can feel how thronged are these cliffs, hills, rivers and lakes with past travellers. The end result of these journeys is this compendium of wild, secret and beautiful places across Portugal. It is packed with memories of stargazing nights, hidden coves, cool rivers, thundering waterfalls, hilltop forts and ruined castles. I hope that this book inspires many more wild adventures.

Edwina Pitcher Lisbon, September 2016 13

Finding your way Each wild place can be located using the overview map provided at the end of each chapter, along with the detailed directions, but to be sure of finding your way you’ll need to use the latitude and longitude provided. This is given in decimal degrees (WGS84) and can be entered straight into any web-based mapping program, such as Google or Bing. Print out the map before you go, or save a ‘screen grab’ and email it to yourself. You can also enter the co-ordinates into your GPS, car satnav (enable ‘decimal degrees’) or your smartphone, if it has GPS. All maps apps will take decimal degrees, and the ViewRanger app will even give you turn-by-turn instructions to guide you to your point. If you have paper maps, look up the equivalent national grid reference in the conversion table at the back of the book. Approximate walk-in times are given, for one way only (we allow about 15 mins per km), and abbreviations in the directions refer to left and right (L, R) and north, east, south and west (N, E, S, W).

Wild & responsible

High risk of forest fires in the summertime. Don’t leave any glass out in the sunshine. Even the smallest shard can spark a flame in the sun. If you see discarded bottles, please collect them.

A Critical Wildfire Period is announced annually, usually July–September. During this time campfires are prohibited in rural areas, allowed only in designated picnic parks or parques de merendas using their communal stone BBQ grills.

If you wash in streams or rivers, only use biodegradable soap, or none at all.

4. 5.

Park considerately. Take map, compass, whistle and a water bottle when venturing into remote areas and always tell someone where you are going – do not rely on your mobile phone.

Useful phrases hello

olá

good morning

bom dia

good afternoon

boa tarde

good evening

boa noite

please

por favor

thank you

obrigado

safe journey

boa viagem

where is?

onde está?

the beach

a praia

the river beach

a praia fluvial

the well

o poço

the dolmen

a anta

the forest

a floresta

the camping park o parque de campismo the picnic park

o parque de merendas

the footpath

o percurso pedestre

right

à direita

left

à esquerda

the café

o café

the restaurant

o restuarante

cup/ bottle of wine um copo/ uma garrafa do vinho a beer

uma cerveja

a water

uma água

bread

pão

cheese

queijo

smoked meat

fumeiro

olives

azeitonas

petrol station

bomba de gasolina

Best for Beaches & coast Portugal is well known for its white sand beaches. The epic coastline, stretching from Minho in the north to the tip of Sagres in the south, and on into the Algarve, is also riddled with secret coves, hidden sea caves, windswept dunes and colossal cliffs. The coastline differs dramatically from place to place. The Costa Vicentina in the south-west offers some fabulous clifftop hiking routes along fishermen’s paths, with many detours to a secret beach, its water blue and its sand undisturbed. At Peniche, a haven for surfers, hidden beaches are interspersed between strange rocks weathered into staggering towers. There are ancient sea caves in which you can shelter and ponder the endless horizon, or others into which you can swim, or kayak, their vaulted cavities lit up by the iridescent water. At Praia da Almagreira sand dunes form red crests like a miniature Valley of the Kings. Go wild! At Cabo Espichel there are dinosaur footprints leaving their 145 million-year-old trail up the cliff side, and on the Sintra coast you can fit your hand inside the dent of a Jurassic heel-bone. At Salir do Porto you can leap and roll down Portugal’s biggest dune. Or skinny dip in the secret coves formed where the wild Arrábida hills meet the sea.

Salir do Porto Sand Dunes (Leiria) Varanda de Pilatos (Peniche & Berlengas) Praia da Almagreira (Peniche & Berlengas) Praia do Abano (Lisbon & Sintra) Praia Grande do Rodízio (Lisbon & Sintra) Praia da Baleeira (Setúbal & Rio Sado) Pedra da Mua, Cabo Espichel (Setúbal & Rio Sado) Praia da Amália (Costa Vicentina) Praia da Senhora da Rocha (West Algarve) Praia do Carvalho (West Algarve) Praia da Amora (Açores Islands) Cascata da Ribeira da Salga (Açores Islands)

Praia da Senhora da Rocha, p225 16

p135 p159 p160 p169 p172 p180 p181 p215 p225 p225 p243 p245

Best for Festas The summer months are the time for festas in Portugal. These street parties kick off in June with Lisbon and Porto’s santos populares and then from July to August every tiny village in the hills and valleys will have its festa popular with traditional pimba music, feasting and dancing in the streets. In Pereiro, a typical country town, the streets are strewn with petals and pungent herbs. These festas are also a great way to sample local and seasonal gastronomy. A popular festivity is vindimas, essentially a wine-feast and very popular as a lot of the adegas – wineries and vineyards – need a hand to pick the grapes. Trample the fruit in the traditional granite lagar, and celebrate with plenty of wine and feasting. Taste smoked meats from over 150 Trasmontano farms at the Vinhais Fumeiro festival or celebrate all possible cherry-related cakes and wines at the cherry harvest in Resende. See ancient traditions, sometimes superstitions, kept alive in these festivities. Dozens of colourful boats, festooned with flags, set sail over the river from Constância. At Trásos-Montes, the careto, a carnival figure dressed in colourful fringes, whirls madly and chases onlookers, and in Montalegre the enigmatic witch, bruxa, is celebrated at their Friday the 13th party.

Festa das Vindimas e Desfolhada (Viana do Castelo) Festa do Alvarinho e do Fumeiro (Serra da Peneda) Sexta-Feira 13 (Serra do Gerês & Montalegre) Vinhais Fumeiro festival (Montesinho & Bragança) L Burro i L Gueiteiro (Montesinho & Bragança) Festa do Mel, Caramulo (Viseu & Douro) Festas do Pereiro (Ribatejo) Festa da Benção do Gado, Riachos (Ribatejo) Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem (Ribatejo) Festa do Ouriço do Mar (Lisbon & Sintra)

p44 p52 p60 p76 p76 p102 p153 p153 p154 p173

Best for Skinny dipping Stripping bare and plunging into a lake, a sparkling river or a thrillingly deep clear mountain pool is one of the most direct ways to reconnect with nature. As we bare all to the wild and immerse ourselves in it, we let it shape us, flow around us and so mould us. Lie back to float, spread like a star, in volcanic lakes under clear skies at Lagoa Azul, or let a gentle current take you downstream as dragonflies alight on your body in Rio Couro. Strip off at a secret beach and let the waves surge around you. Feel your pulse race as you jump into a mountain pool in Gerês or swim bravely up to a thundering waterfall and let it pummel your body. Water gives us unhindered freedom of movement and many of Portugal’s rivers, waterfalls and lakes – and a good number of beaches where naturism is accepted – are in secluded spots, perfect for a skinny dip which only adds to this unhindered freedom.

Praia Fluvial, Paredes do Taboão (Viana do Castelo) Ponte Medieval da Moimenta (Montesinho) Praia Fluvial do Rio Alfusqueiro (Aveiro) Rio Teixeira (Aveiro & Rio Vouga) Rio Ocreza (Castelo Branco) Lagoa Azul (Lisbon & Sintra) Praia das Bicas (Setúbal & Rio Sado) Praia da Baleeira (Setúbal & Rio Sado) Praia do Canavial (West Algarve: Monchique) Queda do Vigário (West Algarve: Monchique) Cascata da Ribeira da Salga (Açores Islands)

Ponte de São João, p40 20

p39 p74 p115 p115 p143 p169 p179 p180 p226 p226 p245

Be safe

1 Never swim alone, and do keep a constant watch on weak swimmers. 2 Know your limits and stay close to the shoreline. Cold water will decrease your swimming range and can lead to cold cramps. People with a heart condition should avoid rapid entry into cold water. 3 Never jump into water you have not thoroughly checked for depth and obstructions. 4 Avoid strong currents, such as those found under large waterfalls, rapids or weirs: they can drag you under. 5 Always make sure you know how you will get out before you get in. 6 Wear footwear if you can. 7 Watch out for boats on any navigable river. Wear a coloured swim hat so you can be seen. 8 Avoid direct contact with bluegreen algae and be wary of water quality in lowland areas during droughts and heavy rain. Cover cuts with plasters if worried, and if you develop flu-like symptoms tell your doctor you have been wild swimming.

Best for Places to stay Portugal’s mountains and hills are riddled with little lost villages, their stone walls and cobbled streets evoking a timeless heritage, in harmony with nature. Take a rustic retreat in the hilltop villages of Comareira or Pena, and open your shutters to dawn over the Lousã hills. Or for a fairy-tale refuge, stay at the 16th century fort on the wild island of Berlengas. Sleeping out under the stars is a magical experience and several campsites have made the experience all the more romantic. Sleep on silks and embroidered cushions in luxurious tipis on the riverbank or a secret treehouse hidden high in pine trees. Stay in a Mongolian yurt surrounded by snow-capped hills. Or put your head down in a log cabin with deer, pigs and goats in the neighbouring fields, and wake up with a morning wild swim. Wild does not have to mean roughing it – enjoy the sensual side of nature on exquisite daybeds in magical gardens or stay in elegant farmhouses with sparkling fountains, and breakfast on local breads, honeys, jams, fruits and cakes.

Lima Escape (Serra da Peneda & Soajo) Nomad Planet (Gerês & Montalegre) Parque Biológico (Montesinho & Bragança) Quinta da Vila (Arouca & Alvarenga) Casa de Cerejinha, Pena (Coimbra & Arganil) Casa de Campo, Comareira (Coimbra & Arganil) Casa Amarela (Leiria) Forte de São João Baptista (Peniche) Monte Alto (North Alentejo) Azenhas da Seda Aquaturismo (Central Alentejo) Alqueva Rural Camping (Beja) Cerro da Borrega (Costa Vincentina) Muxima (Costa Vicentina)

Lima Escape, p53 22

p53 p61 p77 p94 p130 p131 p139 p164 p192 p202 p210 p220 p220

Best for Ancient & sacred Before the Romans arrived in 218BC, the pages of Portugal’s history were already thronged with ancient tribes. With rock carvings, standing stones and cave paintings, hill forts and tribal temples, the landscape is a rich tapestry of sacred spaces and territorial markings. To be in these places is to rekindle a sense of awe and enchantment with our Earth. Trace a path through magical woodland to Penedo Encanto, a whale-shaped stone covered in swirling prehistoric engravings. Crawl under a megalithic dolmen and gaze up at the great stones rolled into place to honour the dead of 5,000 years ago. Under these stones you can remove yourself from the world, cradled for a moment in eternity. See the surrounding hills through Neolithic eyes at caves in Esperança and trace ochre paintings depicting hunts and dragons. Follow the Ocreza river to discover hundreds of rock carvings or climb rock-hewn steps to wild temples. Some are dedicated to millennia-old deities: Rocha da Mina, hidden in wild woodland, is given over to the healing god Endovélico; the Roman temple at Panóias, with blood channels carved in its stone altars, is dedicated to Serápis, god of the underworld.

Penedo do Encanto (Serra da Peneda & Soajo) Santuário de Panóias (Serra do Alvão & Vila Real) Arte Rupestre do Vale do Côa (Montesinho) Castro do Monte Padrão (Porto & Rio Ave) Pedra Moura (Aveiro & Rio Vouga) Anta de São Gens (North Alentejo) Anta do Tapadão (North Alentejo) Lapa dos Gaivões Cave Paintings (North Alentejo) Sepulturas Medievais (Central Alentejo) Anta Grande do Zambujeiro (Central Alentejo) Rocha da Mina (Central Alentejo)

Monsanto Templar chapel, p145 24

p49 p66 p74 p82 p117 p189 p190 p190 p198 p198 p200

Best for Slow food & wine Slow food is a prerequisite of dining in Portugal: dishes are made to ancient recipes and, from farm to kitchen, cooking is a labour of love. What better way to savour the flavours than lingering with a glass of wine? Whether it’s a fresh Vinho Verde from Minho or a dark deep wine from Douro, the vineyards offer a rich and varied stock. Portugal’s love for fish is unfathomable. Along the coast you can dine on stuffed squid, grilled octopus, sea bream, sea bass, cuttlefish, prawns, limpets, barnacles, sardines. But nothing beats the simple joy of a crab eaten by the sea with a glass of wine. In Peniche, try caldeirada de peixe, bubbling fish stew, or, near the Sado coast, razor-clam rice. Inland, the rivers offer freshwater fish. Try grilled eels in Ribatejo or trout from the Côa. In Alentejo black pigs range free under the cork trees. Visit mountain cabins where smoked sausages – farinheira, morcela or chouriço – hang above open fireplaces. Many small-scale farms keep bees, their honey tasting of rosemary, heather or sweet chestnut. Each region has its own cheeses, breads and ‘conventual’ cakes made with lemon, sugar and eggs. Indulge in a cristas de galo from Vila Real, shaped like a cockscomb, the pastry filled with a paste of almond and eggs.

Adega do Lagar (Viana do Castelo) Miradouro do Castelo (Serra da Peneda & Soajo) Restaurante Cabaço (Serra do Gerês & Montalegre) Restaurante ‘A Cabana’ (Serra do Alvão & Vila Real) Quinta do Infantado (Serra do Alvão & Vila Real) Restaurante TrutalCôa (Serra da Estrela & Guarda) Restaurante Retiro do Pescador (Setúbal) Adega de Filipe Palhoça & Vineyards (Setúbal) Restaurante Os Templários (Central Alentejo) Ervideira Wine Shop (Central Alentejo) Restaurante Aguas Quentes (Açores Islands)

Miradouro do Castelo, p52 26

p44 p52 p60 p68 p68 p110 p183 p184 p201 p202 p251

Best for Sunset hill forts & wild highs Portugal has many mountains and hill tops, scattered with ancient hill forts and standing stones, perfect for a sunset. Climb to the highest hill at the golden hour and survey the landscape as our ancestors would have done. As the light diffuses to a deep orange haze over hills at Mosteiro de São João d’Arga, boulders catch the sun, their bright outlines casting long shadows. At Anta das Pias, this ancient dolmen is perfectly aligned for a sunset: sit on its little hill as the air cools. Portugal has many Celtic hill forts, later Romanised, which crown its northern landscape. At Castro de Monte Mozinho you can wander ancient streets within the ruins of a Roman hill fort or sit on the time-worn steps of Castelium Marnelis, once the Roman capital of the central region. Ruined border castles and coastal forts provide perfect places to spread your arms, lean into the wind and fill your lungs. Feel the wild Atlantic wind in your hair at Citânia de Santa Luzia. Breathe in the views from Castelo de Castro Laboreiro, a Moorish castle left to the wild, where eagles perch and lizards creep on its rocks.

Mosteiro de São João d’Arga (Viana do Castelo) Citânia de Santa Luzia (Viana do Castelo) O Cervo (Viana do Castelo) Castelo de Castro Laboreiro (Serra da Peneda) Barragem Lamas de Olo (Serra do Alvão & Vila Real) Castro de Monte Mozinho (Porto & Rio Ave) Chã de Parada (Porto & Rio Ave) Castelium Marnelis (Aveiro & Rio Vouga) Cabo da Roca (Lisbon & Sintra) Anta das Pias (South Alentejo) Castro da Cola (South Alentejo) Cabo Sardão (Costa Vicentina)

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Best for Mountain villages To visit the mountain villages of Portugal is to tread back to a time of harvests and honey, communal bread ovens, donkeys carrying wares and shepherd huts hidden in the hills. Many of these villages have emptied in recent years but there are a few where time seems to have stood still. Stay in a village deep in the Coimbra hills where the cows come home in the rich, evening light, brown and fawn and cream. Other villages are even more ancient: medieval summer towns known as brandas are scattered over the hills of PenedaGerês, long-deserted, their ruins used only for animals. At Montalegre you can see ancient wolf traps, their dry stone walls echoing the slope of the hills, testifying to a forgotten way of life. In Soajo dozens of small stone espigueiros, corn-houses, stand sentinel on a large rock surveying the mountains. Discover Piódão, a hilltop village built entirely from schist, or Meitriz whose slate houses ramble down to the grassy knolls of the Paiva riverbank. There are eccentric villages like Monsanto, a village crowning a rocky summit, its houses built using great boulders as walls, supporting arches, even roofs. At Ermelo little windows overlook the wide River Lima, and sweet oranges tumble over the monastery walls. Also look out for structures created by man, such as mountain-top cairns and waymarkers that stand in some of the most obscure and remote places, as beacons for those who travel that way.

Medieval Summer Town (Viana do Castelo) Soajo (Serra da Peneda & Soajo) Mosteiro do Ermelo (Viana do Castelo) Fojo do Fafião (Gerês & Montalegre) Ecomuseu Barroso (Gerês & Montalegre) Parque de Merendas, Meitriz (Arouca & Alvarenga) Eco-Museu, Aigra Nova (Coimbra & Arganil) Aldeia das Dez (Coimbra & Arganil) Piódão (Coimbra & Arganil) Idanha-a-Velha (Castelo Branco) Monsanto (Castelo Branco) Aldeia da Pedralva (Costa Vicentina)

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Best for Picnics & foraging Good, fresh local produce can be the highlight of any picnic; it also reveals fascinating insights to an area’s cultural and natural history. With sun-drenched fields and rich earth, Portugal provides glorious fruit and veg. Visit the Douro region in late May for cherries and elderflowers, or Alentejo in April for its wild asparagus. In July, little wild snails are gathered from roadside grasses throughout the country and are delicious cooked in butter and garlic. Search for wild clams by the rocks of Santo Cristo in the Açores, pick wild figs and blackberries by the wayside in Ribatejo or forage for mushrooms in the Serra do Alvão. Indulge in soft fruit from the pop-up roadside stalls or local shops and farmers’ markets. If picking mushrooms, remember to leave their roots (or visit the mushroom farm in Serra da Lua). Portugal also has a merry culture of picnicking, with many stone picnic tables resembling altars, sheltered by ancient trees. These parques de merendas are mostly signed from the road and, more often than not, there is a river beach or a hidden waterfall. Chill a bottle of Vinho Verde wedged between river stones and bring food to grill on the communal BBQs.

Cascata do Pincho (Viana do Castelo) Parque Merendas de Ermelo (Serra do Alvão) Parque Biológico (Montesinho) Mata Nacional do Buçaco (Aveiro & Rio Vouga) Loja da Madalena (Aveiro & Rio Vouga) Mercado Municipal de Águeda (Aveiro & Rio Vouga) Fraga da Pena (Coimbra & Arganil) Sensory Eco-Park da Pia do Urso (Leiria) Cogumelos da Serra da Lua (Leiria) Cooking & Nature Emotional Hotel (Leiria) Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo (Açores Islands) Parque de Merendas, O Túnel (Açores Islands) Miradouro da Fonte Grande (Açores Islands)

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viana do castelo Our perfect weekend ,,Float along the River Coura at Paredes do Taboão as dragonflies alight on your body ,,Lean into the ocean winds at the hilltop fort of Santa Luzia ,,Banquet on the beach with pão de Deus, bread of God, a heavenly loaf crowned with custard and coconut ,,Play at marauding pirates around Forte do Paço on the deserted beach ,,Breathe in the views from O Cervo, the great stag sculpture and symbol of Vila Nova de Cerveira ,,Picnic at Anta da Barrosa, a megalithic dolmen you can still scamper inside ,,Prise open a delicious ouriço do mar, sea urchin, bought from the Viana fishwives ,,Cool a bottle of Vinho Verde in the stream by Cascata do Pincho ,,Skinny dip in sapphire pools at Ponte de São João and dive through sunken sunbeams

Forests, beaches, rivers or sea: to spend one day exploring Portugal’s north-westernmost district offers adventures in all of them. The Santa Luzia hill, rising up above the district’s capital – also called Viana do Castelo – is named after the saint of clear-sightedness. The viewpoint shows the land like a map, its sandy beaches a yellow fringe stretching out beyond Mount Padela, and the River Lima snaking in wide curves towards the sea. XX 3

Celtic settlements once scattered these hills. You can see the circular stone foundations left by these villages high on the hills, and deft grooves made by our ancestors sharpening knives on coastal rocks. On the Santa Luzia hill, remains of Iron Age streets are inhabited now solely by sheep. Wild winds grab your clothing to fill out like sails: these are known as the nortada, as they come straight from the North Atlantic. North of the mouth of the Lima the sea becomes far more choppy. It’s in these wilder waters that ouriço do mar are found, spiky little sea urchins, sold by fishwives at the Viana markets for their dense red flesh, rich as caviar.

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Follow the coast south to discover many secret beaches as the woods give way to dunes and coves. Inland, the hills are riddled with rivers and streams. Famously, the Romans, reaching Viana, thought they had arrived at their promised green Elysian fields of the afterlife, and the troops were afraid to cross the Lima as they supposed it was the Lethe, river of forgetfulness. Appropriately enough, this is now the region famous for Vinho Verde, ‘green’ or young wine with a fresh, floral nose. At Solar do Alvarinho you can taste wines made with the region’s prized Alvarinho grape. Vineyards cover the hills and you will have many opportunities to try Vinho Verde. Perhaps chill a bottle for a picnic, secured between rocks, along one of the fresh running streams.

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Six o’clock is when the cows come home, so don’t be surprised if horned cattle block your path. Greet the shepherdess with her twinkling eyes under a black felt hood and Viana gold earrings, with a “boa tarde”, and she might just wish you good luck.

Viana Do Castelo

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rivers & lakes 1 PRAIA FLUVIAL, PAREDES DO TABOÃO Every August these mossy banks sloping down to the River Coura are host to one of Portugal’s largest rock festivals. The rest of the year the small river continues to wind slowly under shady trees with the only dancing that of the dragonflies. Cool, deep but narrow river with a shingle bed. From Paredes de Coura follow signs to the ,, Praia Fluvial. Parking. 2 mins 41.9194, -8.5667 1sz 2 COVAS BROOK Purest mountain water pools with green grasses and babbling water over stones. Perfect for a paddle or shallow swim. From the junction with N302 in Covas ,, (Coura bridge) follow N301 E for 150m; park after the farm gate and walk R down the cobbled road until the end. 2 mins, 41.8777, -8.6864 qh 3 RIO VEZ, ARCOS DE VALDEVEZ Try a game of water basketball in the net attached to the old bridge here or bring a canoe to try the slalom. The river snakes around the old town here: people laze on

the riverbank, swim or sit by the bar in the sun. River lifestyle the norm here. More watersports at ‘Edificio Fluvivez’: call +351 936 105 317. Park along the N101 by the river to the N of ,, town. Walk down the river to the beach. 2 mins, 41.8480, -8.4163 1s7 4 ESTORÃOS Shingle river beach and shallow water swims by the old church and sleepy town above. From Ponte de Lima cross the river and take ,, the N202 W; after 2km turn R onto M524 to Moreira do Lima and continue on the M525 until Estorãos. 1 min, 41.7856, -8.6448 h 5 PRAIA FLUVIAL DE PONTE DA BARCA Share your swim with the trout in this river beach along the Lima. Pebbles, clear water and a diving pier. Park near the bridge in Ponte da Barca and ,, walk upstream through the Jardim das Poetas. 5 mins, 41.8100, -8.4174 1T 6 BARRAGEM DE COVAS A calm peaceful dam with wild flowers and woods. And a shady and popular fishing spot.

From Covas (Coura bridge) take the N301 ,, towards Caminha. After 2km turn R over the bridge and park. 2 mins, 41.8789, -8.7058 h1W

secret beaches 7 PRAIA DO MOLEDO Wild Atlantic waves crash in and bewilderingly huge rocks nose out to sea. The wave-washed stone is perfect for a barefoot clamber, like the surface of the moon flooded with seawater. Great for pebble and shell enthusiasts. From Moledo cross the railway tracks and ,, park near the seafront. Walk down. 5 mins, 41.8500, -8.8668 zf 8 FORTE DO PAÇO Sandy beach with granite outcrops and the 18th century Paço Fort built by the Count of Lippe. Play marauding pirates as you chase around the old fort. On the N13 passing Paço follow the brown ,, signs towards the coast for Forte do Paço. Park on the track. 5 mins, 41.7589, -8.8771 1zqQ

XX 10 9 FOZ DO MINHO Here the Rio Minho meets the sea and widens into a shallow basin fronted by dunes. Fishermen come and go in small boats over this Spanish/Portuguese river border. From Caminha head S on N13 for 1km, turn ,, R at brown sign for Foz do Minho, follow for 1km. Parking. 2 mins, 41.8682, -8.8621 z

waterfalls & rockpools 10 PONTE DE SÃO JOÃO, RIO COURA A scrabble down a steep stony track yields a vast azure pool. Dive from huge rocks and swim into quartz caves. Filled by the mountain spring which begins high in the hills at the monastery of São João. From Covas (Coura bridge) follow the N301 ,, W towards Caminha. After 1.5km you pass over an old bridge; park on the roadside, and on the R is an overgrown path down. 5 mins, 41.8775, -8.7156 Tv=

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11 CASCATA DO PINCHO Smooth granite rocks beneath the falling waterfall form a deep diving basin. At midday the water is brilliant turquoise but thrillingly cold.

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Viana Do Castelo

From Espantar head N, pass the café ,, Caçana and continue on the cobbled road. After 750m and just before the woods, take the slip road to the L, follow downhill. Reach the pool by a short walk upstream. 5 mins, 41.7977, -8.7518 T1qh

ancient & sacred 12 ANTA DA BARROSA This megalithic dolmen was erected in 3,000BC and the large flat stones leaning together still create a shelter. Sit crosslegged on its dusty floor as the dusk draws in. A grassy area and shady trees around provide a good picnic place. From Âncora head N on the N13 towards ,, Vila Praia de Âncora, cross the river, at the roundabout take first R onto N305, 2nd L into small R. da Barrosa; dolmen is at the end of the road on the R. Cross into the grassy area. 1 min, 41.8100, -8.8506 QqW 13 IGREJA DO SÃO SALVADOR, BRAVÃES Make a pilgrimage to this church with orange trees and great views across the Lima valley. Wild animals are carved in a triumphant arch over the western door and stalk through all the masonry of this 12th century church.

XX 13 From Ponte da Barca take the N203 W ,, towards Ponte de Lima, just after Mosteiro the church is on your R. Parking 1 min, 41.7980, -8.4531 e8

hiking & biking 14 ECOVIA, RIVER LIMA Long flat paths along the banks of the River Lima offer perfect cycling for a sunny day. Stop along the way for a picnic or a river dip to cool off. From E of the medieval bridge at Ponte ,, de Lima, follow the Ecovia signs along the river path for 16km ending at Ponta da Barca (41.8066, -8.4248). 45 mins, 41.7688, -8.5847 1c 15 COVAS HYDROELECTRIC STATION On the banks of the River Coura discover the remains of gigantic hydraulic machinery. Built by early-20th century pioneers in hydroelectricty, it was deactivated in 1974. Ask for the key from the Junta de Freguesia in Covas and you may also be offered a guide. A signposted path along the old canal leads to a picnic park. From Covas (Coura bridge) take the N301 ,, towards Caminha; after 4km look out for

the ruins to the R. Parking. For the Junta de Freguesia: Av. de São Salvador, 4920-042 Covas +351 251 943111 1 min, 41.8791, -8.7179 h17z

sunset & hilltops 16 MOSTEIRO DE SÃO JOÃO D’ARGA Watch the last golden rays fall over the valley and River Minho from this 13th century monastery. A spring has its source here, falling eventually to the Minho. Peaceful, with only thronging birdsong at dusk. Continue uphill to watch the sunset, park at any point you think high enough and scramble up the side from there. From Arga de Baixo take the M552 towads ,, Santo Aginha and turn at the brown sign for the Mosteiro. Parking. 5 mins, 41.8385, -8.7324 *hD8n 17 CITÂNIA DE SANTA LUZIA If you like the wind in your hair, come here for the Nortada wind. Remains of circular Iron Age dwellings crown the summit; sheep wander along the ancient paving between houses. From here, notice how the Lima divides the different seas: there are much wilder waves to the north.

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XX 20 From behind Santuário de Santa Luzia ,, (see 18), follow the path up and around to the Citânia. Nominal entrance fee. 10 mins, 41.7053, -8.8354 Qh“ 18 SANTUÁRIO DE SANTA LUZIA Rising triumphant above Viana do Castelo is the Sanctuary of Santa Luzia, St Lucy, venerated for light and clear sight. Enjoy Luzia’s views over the snaking coastline as Atlantic waves beat along its edge. Inside the church, light a votive candle from the heap of waxen eyes beneath the saint’s feet. Park in Viana near the station and take the ,, Elevador de Santa Luzia up to the top. 10 mins, 41.7017, -8.8349 ke

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19 O CERVO Mount Crasto is crowned by the dramatic figure of a stag, ‘O Cervo’, symbol of Vila Nova de Cerveira, and visible from all around. The iron sculpture by the local artist José Rodrigues commands views over the widening River Minho and its dark green valley. From Vila Nova de Cerveira follow brown ,, signs to ‘O Cervo’ uphill for 15 mins. Parking. 1 min, 41.9472, -8.7277 *h6 22 XX

Viana Do Castelo

wonderful wildlife 20 LAGOAS DE BERTIANDOS Discover wooden bird hides by the reedy ponds and walk along the various paths through the dense and magical woodland. English oak, black willow and alder are the dominant species. There is a great camping site here. From Ponte de Lima take the N202 S ,, towards Viana do Castelo. After 4km there is a sign for the Lagoas, turn R and follow road to entry on the L. Parking. 15 mins, 41.7645, -8.6434 Dhz 21 BIRDING, ARGA DE CIMA Good birding spots up on the mountain. Look out for rock bunting, linnets and buzzards. From Arga de Cima take the road S 600m ,, towards Mãos. Park and walk up hill. 2 mins, 41.8305, -8.6842 Dzh*

arts & crafts 22 CONVENTO DE SÃO PAIO Founded in 1392, the convent and gardens were rescued from abandonment in the 1970s by the artist José Rodrigues. Its old walls now house his collection of sacred

XX 24 art: Hindu gods peek over the shoulders of a Madonna. Wilderness animates the convent inside and out as sculptures throng the gardens and nature-inspired artworks climb the stairs. Hidden mirrors play with the views over the mountains. From Vila Nova de Cerveira take the ,, mountain road up towards O Cervo (see 19), continue on the road past the stag and after 3km follow signs to Convento. 5 mins, 41.9301, -8.7071 he7

wild picnics 23 COMMUNITY OVEN, COVAS Bring your meat, fish and picnic to this 19th century stone oven. Start the flames inside with pine cones and dry wood. There are a fountain and picnic tables nearby in this shady village green. Take the N302 N out of Covas (Coura ,, bridge) for 2km, on your R. 1 min, 41.8894, -8.6995 W 24 ERMIDA DA SENHORA DA ENCARNAÇÃO Picnic tables under shady trees by the chapel. BBQ, old fountains and a stage for music. Glorious views across the Minho. From Vila Nova de Cerveira take the ,,

mountain road up to the O Cervo (see 19), continue until you see signs for the Capela. 2 mins, 41.9458, -8.7297 *6W 25 POÇA DO CERVO ‘The Hart’s Pool’. A still, glassy pond with trout, frogs, butterflies and eagles. Trees lean over from grassy banks to touch the water’s surface which reflects the mountains. From O Cervo (see 19), walk back along the ,, road, turn L and sharp L. 5 mins, 41.9455, -8.7235 WDh*

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local food 26 RESTAURANTE O MOINHO Look at riverside views as the River Vade comes gushing into the Lima. This old mill is now a family-run restaurant serving a delicious mix of regional Minho dishes and seasonal specialties. From the main road through Ponte da ,, Barca, take a L before the bridge and continue round the block. Campo do Côrro 1, 4980614 Ponte da Barca +351 258 452035, Restauranteomoinho.pt 41.8083, -8.4222 sk

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27 RESTAURANTE CASA ESTRELA Dark wood, stone and cool shadows only emphasize the warmth of mother and daughter at this restaurant. Fish is cooked at an open kitchen. Choose from three daily dishes: soup, bread, fish, wine for €5.50. The Viana Chocolate Factory is long gone but the chocolate mousse here is heaven. R. Mateus Barbosa 60A, 4900-508 Viana ,, do Castelo +351 258 024668 41.6940, -8.8255 sY

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28 CAFÉ DA PONTE A family café and restaurant popular with the locals. Built by the old bridge, the River Coura runs beneath and goats graze nearby. A quiet village but if Benfica win it gets pretty noisy in here. Try chicken and chips (frango with batatas fritas) and a beer. Take the N301 or N302 into Covas (Coura ,, bridge) and park near the roundabout. The café is on the bridge. 41.8784, -8.6907 s

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29 RESTAURANTE ADEGA DO LAGAR Come in on a Sunday and they will have only one dish. Go with it. Family-run, it has an ancient wood oven, wine press and a generous landlord. Locally sourced meat, wine, vegetables and bread. Try the bagaço com mel, a strong spirit mixed with honey; more than one, and you will leave aterrada. Ponte Covas, Covas (Coura bridge) ,, +351 251 948064 41.8777, -8.6898 sY

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30 MARKET AT VIANA DO CASTELO Fishwives sell from buckets of ouriço do mar, ‘sea-chestnuts’, so called for their prickly husks; inside is a wonderful red oyster. Eaten fresh from the sea, it’s the caviar of Viana. Every Friday morning around the old ,, ramparts of the castle. 41.6883, -8.8369 sk7 31 CHURRASQUEIRAS, VILA PRAIA DE ÂNCORA Typical food here is charcoal-grilled chicken. Cheap and delicious; ask at any churrasqueira for a chicken para levar (takeaway) and eat on the beach after a swim. Along the beaches, Vila Praia de Âncora. ,, 41.8160, -8.8636

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32 FESTA DAS VINDIMAS E DESFOLHADA Traditional festivities surrounding harvest: picking grapes, corn and wine-making. First Saturday in October, the husband and wife

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Viana Do Castelo

team at Camping de Covas run wine-making workshops: pick grapes, use original machinery and enjoy dinner on a long table for all in the garden. Lugar de Pereiras, Covas, 4920,, 042 VN Cerveira +351 251 941555, Parquecampismocovas.com 41.8893, -8.6959 sY7

rustic havens 33 ARCOS HOUSE, CARRALCOVA This is a tiny village composed of stone houses built for farm workers, just 15km from Arcos de Valdevez. A cluster of cottages have been restored, their lowceilinged rooms with wooden beams are a cosy escape in the hills. Lugar de Oucias, Carralcova, 4970-105 ,, Arcos de Valdevez +351 969 804619, Arcoshouse.com 41.9041, -8.3653 sYgqh

wilder campsites 34 PARQUE CAMPISMO CABEDELO Sleep under tall pine trees that rustle in the sea wind. Wooded hills, dunes and walkways to a sandy, undeveloped beach. Av. dos Trabalhadores, Cabedelo, 4900,, 056 Darque +351 258 322042, Inatel.pt 41.6788, -8.8230 dq1 35 CAMPING DE COVAS A family-run campsite with large green fields, outdoor pool and a creative edge. They run activities around traditional activities in harvest. See also 32. Lugar de Pereiras, Covas, 4920-042 ,, V.N.Cerveira +351 251 941555 p.campismo.covas@sapo.pt 41.8877, -8.6954 qsdg 36 QUINTA DE PENTIEIROS Bungalows and camping areas hidden in woodland with lakes, watermills, winding paths and birding huts. This is part of the Lagoas de Bertiandos wildlife conservation project (see 20) Parque de Campismo, 4990-530 Arcos ,, Ponte de Lima +351 258 240202 41.7755, -8.6491 D1gdz

Cortes Mazedo Valença

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Cerdal

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Vila Nova de Cerveira

22 1 Paredes de Coura

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Vila Praia de Âncora

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Afife

Carreço

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Arcozelo

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Refóios do Lima

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14 Ponte de Lima Correlhã

Perre Meadela Santa Marta de Portuzelo Darque

Vila Franca Vitorino dos Piães

Anha Chafé

Fornelos Facha

Mujães

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Alvarães Barroselas Barbudo

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serra da peneda & soajo Our perfect weekend ,,Marvel at the stone corn-houses, espigueiros, built on Soajo’s granite outcrop ,,Peel an orange at Mosteiro de Ermelo, said to have the sweetest oranges outside Algarve ,,Watch dawn break over the silent waters of the River Lima from your treehouse at Lima Escape ,,Listen for ghostly footsteps within the ramparts of Lindoso castle ,,Follow Roman flagstones deep into woodland to find Penedo do Encanto – the Enchanted Stone – covered in prehistoric carvings ,,Walk the Bread of Faith trail through ancient sites of grain and wine cultivation around Soajo ,,Stroke the wild Garrano ponies grazing on the mountains at Fraga das Pastorinhas ,,Sip a glass of Vinho Verde as the last sunrays gild the turrets of Castro Laboreiro

Eagles wheel over these mountainous regions inhabited by roe deer, Iberian wolves, wild goats and ponies. This northernmost area of Portugal is filled with hidden tors, hilltop settlements and prehistoric rock art, Roman ways and old shepherd huts. Tangled woods envelop the Roman road, Via Nova, which, in Portugal, stretches for 30km through ancestral oak trees and rare Gerês ferns, lilies, sundew and butterwort. Look out for the gold-striped salamander, water lizards and the horned viper. The Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês is truly wild: it was granted National Park status as there are ecosystems here which remain undisturbed by humans. The reserve covers the plateaus of Mourela and Castro Laboreiro, but between these rise the uplands of Peneda, Soajo, Amarela and, further east, Gerês.

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The unique community spirit that animates the mountain towns across the Peneda and Soajo peaks manifests its heritage with municipal ovens, shepherds’ huts, canals, wolf traps, mills and brandas – medieval summer towns – found throughout these hills. Old ways of farming are still evident today as communities share the tasks of bread-making – local bread is known as as pão castrejo – for those running the mills or minding cattle on the hills. You can sign up to a bread-making workshop with Montes de Laboreiro or follow one of the many signed walking routes along the old mills. Look out for the shepherds with their dogs, of the castro laboreiro breed, herding the cattle.

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If you walk up the Homem river, jumping over stones and dipping in the blue pools, you can see how this valley is one of many sculpted by glacial movement. U-shaped valleys, moraines and flaky rocks all bear witness to an ancient climate, far cooler than now. Or, if you fancy something more exhilarating, zip up a wetsuit and canyon down the Castro Laboreiro river and you’ll slide over green stones with the tumbling water into deep, quartzy pools. Follow the river like this, along its curves and dips, and you can reach wild places without any paths, inaccessible by land and undisturbed by people.

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Serra Da Peneda & Soajo

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rivers & waterfalls 1 PONTE DE DORNA A small stone bridge of uncertain date and origin arches over the stream here. A Roman road used to connect this area. Depending on water levels it’s a swim or paddle spot; grassy banks make for a relaxing picnic area. From Castro Laboreiro take the M1160 S ,, to Dorna for 4km. Turn L just before you enter the village. 2 mins, 41.9936, -8.1681 WD1z 2 POÇO NEGRO, SOAJO A tree-swing hangs over the sparkling fresh water of Poço Negro, meaning Dark Well. A cave is hidden in granite walls to one side. Large boulders are perfect for drying off in the sun with ledges for those wishing to jump in again. From Soajo take the M530 out towards ,, Paradela, past the granaries, espigueiros, and down the hill there is a sign which says ‘Poço Negro’. Park nearby and take the steps down. 2 mins, 41.8782, -8.2582 T1h= 3 LAGOAS, ENTRE AMBOS-OS-RIOS A chain of blue pools along the River Froufe. ‘Lagoa 1’ has a rope-swing, ‘Lagoa 2’ a

paddling spot, ‘Lagoa 3’ has diving rocks, a deep pool and towering views of the mountains either side. ‘Lagoa 4’ is a grassy picnic spot with heather growing between quartz rocks. Birdsong at all. From Entre Ambos-os-Rios take the N203 ,, towards Lindoso. After the bridge follow the trail signs for ‘Lagoa 1’ down to your R. For the rest, follow the road from Entre Ambos-os-Rios to Ermida and after 2 min take the turning to Froufe or the ‘T1’ sign. Follow through Froufe to find the Lagoas. 5 mins, 41.8220, -8.3011 1Th* 4 LAGOAS, GERMILL Cascades and waterfalls create deep, blue pools with quartzy, granite basins and still water. Hidden in a tangle of wild wood. Park at Germill and from the chapel follow ,, the signed walking route along the river edge until you reach the pools. 5 mins, 41.7829, -8.2650 Th*z 5 MONTES DE LABOREIRO CANYONING Zip up your wetsuit and slip over the mossy waterfalls of the Laboreiro river. See woods and rivers accessible by fin not foot. Take brave jumps into deep pools and emerge to panoramic views. A thrilling adventure for

brave novices too. Canoeing, rock climbing, rappel, paint-ball, tree climbing all on offer here. Donkey walks, bread workshops and days out with a shepherdess. +351 251 466 041, Montesdelaboreiro.pt ,, 2 hrs, 42.0274, -8.1599 1Th7sg 6 FISH TRAPS OF THE MINHO Large rocky escarpments jut out into the fast flowing Minho. A feat of nature and human endeavour, the fish traps hang between the rocks. There is a 6km signed linear walk along the ,, Minho from Melgaço (42.1143, -8.2610); more info at the start point, Melgaço Tourist Office, in the square by the castle +351 251 402 440. 2.5 hrs, 42.1143, -8.2610 hz

ancient & sacred 7 PENEDO DO ENCANTO, LINDOSO Prehistoric designs swirl over this ancient stone hidden deep in woodland. Barely discernible, you can trace the grooves with your fingers to ‘see’ them more clearly. Legend tells of Moors hiding gold in this rock; when the marks are deciphered the rock will open to reveal untold wealth. They remain to be deciphered.

XX 9 of shepherds. Up here, occasionally above the clouds, you can still see the funerary monuments they left behind. Known in Portuguese as ‘mamoas’, they were once covered with earth to form mammaryshaped hills. Up here, the largest dolmen has zig-zagging carving inside. Difficult to find, but access can be made by ,, following the road from Rodeiro NE towards the Spanish border. After 3km park by the lake and follow the track around to R on foot for 3km. 45 mins, 42.0615, -8.1013 *hQ8z

XX 11 From Lindoso take the N203/N304-1 ,, towards Ponte da Barca. After 2km, at Parada, turn L at brown sign up to ‘Penedo Encanto’. At some points your path becomes a stream. Park in Parada. Signposted from Casa do Charco, but follow the paved path when signs are missing. 30 mins, 41.8610, -8.2193 *hz 8 DOLMEN DA PORTELA DO PAU, CASTRO LABOREIRO By the end of the 5th millennium BC the Castro Laboreiro plateau, 1,200m above sea level, was home to Neolithic communities

Serra Da Peneda & Soajo

border castles 9 CASTELO DE CASTRO LABOREIRO A wind-torn track leads to this wild castle. A 9th century Galician stronghold with pre-Roman roots turned Moorish castle; now only the eagles visit and lizards scuttle underfoot. Tread carefully along the old battlements. Spread your arms, unfurl imaginary wings and feel like an eagle windhovering over the blue below. Before the dirt track winds up castle-wards ,, there is a rocky promontory to your left with views of the tumbling blue Cascata do Laboreiro lost deep in woodland below. Park in

Castro Laboreiro, from the main square head down behind the pillory, cross the road, turn L, pass the museum. Dirt track to viewing rock on L, track to castle leads up R. 20 mins, 42.0231, -8.1582 *hevz 10 CASTELO DE MELGAÇO Walk along the walls of this 12th century keep to take in the views of Minho. Look out for the statue of Inês Negra, a local woman and fearless defender of the castle against Castilian siege during the Portuguese Wars of Independence in 1388. Follow signs to ‘Castelo’ in Melgaço. Parking. ,, 1 min, 42.1146, -8.2597 s6“e

hiking trails 11 CURRO DA VELHA HIKING TRAIL, SERRA DA PENEDA This 7km circular, signed trail leads through the Peneda mountains with views to the plateau of Castro Laboreiro. It leads past old shepherd huts, down flagstone paths and passes the Ribeiro de Baixo river in the Laboreiro valley. Begin outside the Ranger’s House (Casa do ,, Guarda), Pousios. Parking here. 1 min, 41.9644, -8.1833 h17z

XX 18 12 CAMINHO DO PÃO E DA FÉ, SOAJO A 7km circular walking trail exploring survival (pão, bread) and faith: sites of grain and wine cultivation around Soajo, the waterfall and old mills, and crossing pilgrim paths, such as the Santiago da Compostela pilgrimage route. Park in Soajo and start the walk from the ,, town square following yellow/red signs. 2 hrs, 41.8743, -8.2628 h*1Dz 13 TRILHO DE MEGALITISMO BRITELO Serra Amarela has been inhabited since ancient times. This signed, circular 11km route from Britelo links the carved megalithic funerary stones that mark the beginning of human settlement 5,000BC here. Park in Britelo and follow signs for Trilho de ,, Megalitismo and yellow/red PR route signs. 3 hrs, 41.8345, -8.2902 8e6hD 14 GEIRA ROMAN WAY Follow the Roman road, ironically called ‘Via Nova’, through ancient oak woodland. The paving slabs are deeply rutted by 2,000 years of cart traffic. The Roman way, linking Braga to Spanish Astorga, stretched 30km. This walk is a 9km circular, signed trail that takes you over some of the ancient

flagstones, and past mossy milestones, ruins and brooks within the woodland. Start/end at church of São Sebastião, 3km ,, S on the M535 from Terras de Bouro.. 4 hrs, 41.6963, -8.2983 h81z 15 TRILHO DA MISTURA DAS ÁGUAS This 8km signed and circular walking route passes the Peneda, Laboreiro and Veiga rivers and makes use of a pilgrim route, smugglers’ paths and the ways used by Galician workers in the Spanish Civil War. Craggy slopes lead down to untouched valleys and translucent bathing pools. Begin at the church in Tibo, N from Soajo. ,, 5 hrs, 41.9367, -8.2421 1hz

magic mountains 16 SANTUÁRIO DE NOSSA SENHORA DA PENEDA According to legend the image of Our Lady was discovered in a cave nearby, giving rise to pilgrimage to this sanctuary. A thousand steps up, you can pay your homage to the hills. From Soajo head N to Adrão and follow ,, signs to Santuário da Peneda. 5 mins, 41.9737, -8.2232 e6h8

XX 16 17 LAZER DE VEIGAS Eagles wheel overhead at this grassy picnic spot and a narrow river curves under a small stone bridge. Picnic tables and football pitch. From Lamas do Mouro follow signs to ,, Castro Laboreiro; after 5 mins take the brown sign R to Area de Lazer. 18 mins, 42.0407, -8.1627 DW* 18 FRAGA DAS PASTORINHAS The grandest introduction to the Serra da Peneda – the Mountain of Rock – is conjured here in its fullest. Beyond the gorge, the

great summit towers up and falls away to the River Peneda beneath. Wild ponies graze. This marks the beginning of a monumental change in landscape. From Soajo take the road N to Adrão, ,, following signs to the church Santuário da Peneda. The miradouro lookout is en route with a small layby, 4km N of Adrão. Park and walk. 5 mins, 41.9269, -8.2373 *hD

mountain towns

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19 MEDIEVAL SUMMER TOWN, ERMIDA These brandas were used as summer homes by medieval farming folk, bringing their animals to stable in the hills. These ‘lost’ villages are scattered over all Peneda-Gerês and used now only for cows, filled with hay, ivy growing over the stones. Look out for the brown signs ‘Branda’ along ,, roads in the park. From the viewpoint above Ermida, walk up hill and follow signs for ‘Branda’. 30 mins, 41.8173, -8.2615 h*D6

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20 SOAJO A 16th century pillory with a cheeky grinning face cut into its stone sums up the community of this small town. Famously, this town never let nobles stay “longer than the time bread takes to cool on the tip of a spear”. Those who live here are those who rule. The espigueiros of Soajo, corn-houses, are a stunning granite army built on a fat rock overlooking the mountains. For the espigueiros follow brown signs, ,, 500m S of Soajo on the M530. 5 mins, 41.8749, -8.2631 sghe

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21 MOSTEIRO DO ERMELO A 12th century Benedictine monastery on the banks of the Lima. Bells toll in a village empty but for the odd chicken. The oranges that grow here are said to be sweeter than even Alentejo oranges. S of Soajo on the M530. ,, 2 mins, 41.8535, -8.2893 h68e

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regional food & festas 22 MIRADOURO DO CASTELO A homely restaurant with a terrace looking out over Laboreiro castle. Sip Alvarinho wine and watch the sunset light up the castle towers. Inside there’s pão castreiro frito com chourico, local bread, with a hard dark crust, fried with smoked meats. A good selection of local wines. All food is good ‘mama food’ and great traditional Portuguese dishes. Vila, 4960-061 Castro Laboreiro ,,

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Serra Da Peneda & Soajo

+351 251 465 469 42.0274, -8.1599 sYg 23 ADEGA DO SOSSEGO, PADERNE A bare stone, low-beamed rustic restaurant with extensive cellars. This is a good place to try the regional steaks and lamb cooked in a clay oven. Also a great place to try the local lamprey: breaded, fried, boiled, dried, roasted or with rice. A great selection of red, white and sparkling green wines. Estrada Nacional 301 Km 4, Lugar do Peso, ,, Paderne, 4960-221 Melgaço +351 251 404 308, Adegadosossego.com 42.1043, -8.2869 sYk 24 RESTAURANTE ESPIGUEIRO DO SOAJO Exquisite local dishes cooked in a popular local restaurant. Try the cabrito e anho da Serra de Soajo (goat and lamb cooked; but pre-order ahead). Av. 25 de Abril 1425, 4970 Soajo ,, +351 258 576 136 41.8761, -8.2658 sY 25 SOLAR DO ALVARINHO, MELGAÇO Taste the wines from the regional Alvarinho grape in the old courtrooms of Melgaço. The town’s prisons were once below, now a mural of blind Justice looks down. Your winetasting does not have to be blind, a guide is on hand. Try ‘Reguiero’ 2013, a woody example of the fresh Alvarinho grape. ‘Donna Paterna’ has some bite. Tv da Lage AR, 4960-556 Melgaço ,, +351 251 410 195 42.1141, -8.2600 Ys 26 FESTA DO ALVARINHO E DO FUMEIRO, MELGAÇO A three-day-long festival celebrating the famous Vinho Verde – made mostly with the Alvarinho grape – and the region’s excellent smoked meats. Also a great chance to try regional dishes of lampreia, lamprey, and roast goat. Mid-April. Melgaço ,, 42.1143, -8.2579 gsY

mountain houses 27 CASA DO CHARCO, PARADA Discover the Penedo Encanto of Lindoso (see 7) from the comfort of this traditional cottage. Caso do Charco Parada, Lindoso 4980,, 453, Ponte da Barca +351 919 444 905, Casadocharco.com 41.8613, -8.2193 eghz

Friestas

28 CASA DO SERTÃO, PARADA A cosy, traditional stone house in this tiny village. Several trails run nearby into the mountain. Caso do Sertão Parada, Lindoso, 4980,, 453 Ponte da Barca +351Troviscoso 258 577 616, Cortes Casadocharco.com Bela Barbeita Mazedo 41.8626, -8.2184 eghz

10 6 25 26 Melgaço 23

Alvaredo Paderne

Roussas

São Paio

Penso

Longos Vales

wild havens & stars

29 LIMA ESCAPE Merufe Moreira Pias the Escape along wilder reaches of the Lima with natural comfort. Lima Escape is set within pine woodland on the banks of the Lima as it meets the Germil and Froufe rivers. Watch the sunrise over the Serra Amarela from your treehouse with a woodburning stove inside. ‘Glamping’ is also an option in a tipi with candles and blankets. Lima Escape, Lugar de Igreja, 4980-312 ,, Entre Ambos-os-Rios +351 258 588 361, info@lima-escape.pt 41.8239, -8.3174 sg1hD*

8 Riba de Mouro Tangil

22 5 9

16 11

15 18

Prozelo From Ponte da Barca take the N203 into ,, 24 2 Soajo Rio Frio Lindoso. Parking. 2 mins. 20 12 p45 Giela 41.8671, -8.1991 *hu 28 Vila Fonche 27 7 3 São Paio 21 Salvador 31 CASA DOS CABREIROS, ROUSSAS Vale Guilhadeses Paçô Amid Alvarinho vineyards with beautiful 13 São Jorge views and old stone walls, this cottage Souto os 29 3 Távora sleeps up (Santa to 12. Maria) Roussas, 4960-551 Melgaço 265 Ponte da Barca ,, Entre Ambos-os-Rios 19 Refóios do Lima962 851 Vila Nova de Muía Bravães Lavradas +351 205 13 Paço Vedro de Magalhães 42.1026, -8.2384 h Gemieira Gandra

velo

Goães Marrancos

Pico de Regalados Coucieiro

Castro Laboreiro

ariz 30 CASTELO DE LINDOSO Paredes de A Coura border castle with a fraught history of invasion now in ruins guarded by goats. Gondoriz Pretty, friendly goats. This 17th century Castanheira 33 castle still has strong defensive walls, good barriers from the wind that will besiege if you Aguiã wild camp here. Only for the brave to watch nightfall. Listen for steely toes on stone. Couto

32 LAMAS DO MOURO CAMPISMO Beiral do Lima campsite set in the A beautiful, peaceful mountain woodland of Castro Laboreiro. A babbling brook meanders through the trees Aboim da Nóbrega and mossy grass. Keep an eye out for a flash Santa Maria) of orange in the treetops: red squirrels. Fornelos Canyoning and adventure activities on offer. Veigas de Lama, 4960-170 Lamas de Mouro ,, +351 251 466 041, Atães Anais Montesdelaboreiro.pt/camping.html Sande -8.1948 Prado (Sãosgh*Dq7d Miguel) Pico Rio42.0363, Mau

p61

4 12 32 23 Valdreu

Terras de Bouro

Vilar da Veiga

14 p87

Cabri

22 6 33

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serra do gerês & montalegre Our perfect weekend ,,Plunge into the blue pool formed by the cascades at Cela Cavalos ,,Follow on the trail of the brown bears which roamed Gerês as late as the 17th century ,,Soak up the evening light filtered through the archways of the ruined monastery at Pitões das Júnias ,,Rise before dawn and scamper up the hills at Fafião as the sky grows pink ,,Dance wildly at Sexta-Feira 13, Montalegre’s festival of dark tales, legends and witchcraft ,,Dine with the locals at Restaurante Cabaço where you can try some of the region’s acclaimed fumeiro or smoked meats ,,Curl up inside a Mongolian yurt at Nomad Planet with views over snow-capped mountains ,,Paraglide from the Serra do Larouco, Portugal’s third highest mountain

The regional name, Trás-os-Montes, means ‘beyond the mountains’, and here the mysticism of Montalegre, with its culture deeply rooted in the land, is greatly magnified by being ‘beyond the mountains’ of Gerês. Shepherdesses in thick felt hoods herd cattle from dawn until dusk. Their ancient huts, half-submerged high in the hills, appear like prehistoric tumuli. Warm, dry and womblike, these huts make the perfect wild camp. Spy out corn-houses known as canastros, used to store grain for the thick crusted pão de centeio, rye bread. Zip up your tent at night as the bruxa, or witch, of Montalegre is believed to be more than just a fireside story. Be sure to follow custom and leave flowers outside, or untuck your shirt to ward off malignant spirits.

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Every Friday the 13th, Montalegre comes alive with fireworks, costumed dances and queimada, a strong spirit infused with spices and set alight. The town celebrates its traditions with healing herbs and fumeiro, oak-smoked meats. You will see many Celtic parallels here, such as the Trasmontano bagpipes. The beautiful and heavy-horned barrosã cow is bred here. Bullfights are popular but this is still a protected and controlled breed. The roasted veal, vitela assada, served in any Montalegre restaurant is delicious. Chances are, they make the smoked fumeiro meats there too.

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Beautiful waterfalls riddle the hills. Enjoy crystal waters at the cascades of Cela do Cavalos tumbling into an aquamarine pool. Or walk along the ‘Wolf trail’ to discover the spectacular Cascata de Pitões, falling over 30m of granite cliff. There is a curious Montalegre legend from the time when villages left ailing dogs out for the wolves. Sick donkeys, too, would be left to the wild, and sometimes even weak old men. When the old man’s time came, the son would carry the father up the hill, leaving him with bread for a day and a gaberdine cloak for the night. One day a son, having carried his father up the hill, was shocked as the father tore the gaberdine in half and handed one part back to the son. Asked if he was mad, the father replied. “For you, when your time comes.” The son promptly carried him back down the hill. The wolf traps remain on these hills, a testament to this other time.

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Serra Do Gerês & Montalegre

XX 5

lakes & rivers 1 PRAIA FLUVIAL, VILA DO PONTE Grassy banks and rutted dirt roads lead down the River Rabagão. It’s close to the road but no one passes this way. From Montalegre take the N103 for 23km ,, to Vila do Ponte. Park in the town and follow brown ‘Moinho’ signs to river, or head to ‘Ponte Medieval’. 1 min, 41.7196, -7.9032 h1 2 BARRAGEM DE VENDA NOVA The flooded River Rabagão is a perfect spot for a refreshing dip or an afternoon’s fishing. The reservoir is a good source of trout for the locals. Take the N103 to Venda Nova and park ,, outside the cafés. There is a slip road between the houses to the ‘Zona de Lazer’ (Recreation Area). 5 mins, 41.6762, -7.9613 1k

pools & waterfalls 3 POÇO AZUL, CASCATA DO ARADO A waterfall tumbles at an altitude of 750m into this turquoise blue pool. Come here in low season for deserted swims.

From Portela do Homem take the N308-1 S ,, for 15km; before River Cavado turn L onto the CM1276 for 9km following signs to Cascata do Arado. 5 mins, 41.7038, -8.1097 T1kq= 4 LAGOAS, RIO HOMEM Wild but probably the most ‘known wild’: boys jump with bravado from tall rocks. Follow the river up for 30 mins through this glacial valley and you will come to wilder pools. Park at Portela do Homem (41.8091, ,, -8.1316) and walk back down to the bridge. 15 mins 41.8033, -8.1288 Tk1= 5 SETE LAGOAS Seven deep rock pools in the River Cávado, open to the sky and surrounded by mountains. From Montalegre take the M308 towards ,, Paradela; continue on for another 7km, turn R onto unpaved road for 5km and park. 2 mins, 41.7587, -8.0270 h*1T= 6 CASCATA DE PINCÃES Idyllic hidden waterfall and pool; stones under the glassy pool like hundreds of wishing-well coins. Go when the sun is high before the smooth rocks cast shadows.

Take the N308 into Pincães and follow the ,, signs on Rua da Cascata for about 500m until the waterfall. 3 mins, 41.7084, -8.0553 h1T= 7 CELA CAVALOS Hop over little black streams, shaded ferns and discover the bright clearing and brilliant pool. Small mills are tumble down now but would have milled flour here. Follow up the waterfall and above is another with a deeper pool for swimming. Take the M308 to Cela, then take the road ,, down past Santa Luzia Chapel (see 16) and follow the road for 4km. Park and walk 50m. 1 min, 41.7610, -7.9868 h*=T1

villages & ruins 8 CASCATA DA PITÕES Panoramic views over the old ‘wolf country’ and across to the white windblown waterfall. Follow the wooden walkway for the views of the waterfall. You can take the Wolf trail from here to the parada fojo (wolf trap). Pitões das Junias is about 22km W of ,, Montalegre. From Montalegre take the M508 then M513, turning L at signs for Pitões das Junias. Before you enter the village turn L at

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Park in Xertelo and walk 400m up the hill ,, along the track. Fojo is on your L. 5 mins, 41.7357, -8.0150 h6Dz

9 SIRVOZELO Houses are built into the side of a giant boulder in this small village with 11 inhabitants. There are probably more dogs than people here. A pretty place. From Cela take the EM308 for 1km, turn R ,, at SP and park before the village. 30 mins, 41.7706, -7.9659 hz

12 VILARINHO DA FURNA When the waters are low see the ruins of the village flooded in 1972 by the Portuguese Hydro-Electricity Company, HICA. The village had Visigoth roots, but land was valued by HICA at the price of half a sardine per square metre. From Campo do Geres take the N307 N, ,, pass Parque Cerdeira and, at the first R, park and walk down the road to see the views. 30 mins, 41.7748, -8.1729 hez

10 FOJO DO FAFIÃO This type of wolf trap exists only in the Iberian Peninsula: two tall converging dry stone walls run down the hill meeting at a pit below. Beaters would drive the wolf towards the pit. Eerily quiet, a morbid reminder of the wolf’s endangered status. Fafião is in the deep S of the Gerês National ,, Park. Park at the café and walk uphill. 2 mins, 41.7036, -8.0927 hsez 11 FOJO DO LOBO, XERTELO A well preserved wolf trap on the hills outside the village. Very wild but stunning views across the boulder-strewn mountains.

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signs for Mosteiro and follow until parking area. Walk for 950m following signs. 15 mins, 41.8285, -7.9488 hD=

Serra Do Gerês & Montalegre

13 ECOMUSEU DE BARROSO, MONTALEGRE A museum to the collective memory of the Barroso rural traditions. Discover traditional tools, costumes and farm equipment of Portugal’s bygone centuries. It is an imaginative testament to a rich heritage with workshops, new exhibits and a permanent collection. All within the old walls of Montalegre. Ecomuseu de Barroso, Terreiro do Açougue ,, 11, 5470-251 Montalegre +351 276 510 203, Ecomuseu.org 1 min, 41.8253, -7.7913 qe

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holy & ancient 14 MOSTEIRO DE SANTA MARIA DAS JÚNIAS A 9th century monastery in the foothills of the Gerês mountains. The water canals built by Cistercian monks still run into the ruined dining hall. In Pitões das Júnias follow brown sign to ,, Mosteiro. 5 mins, 41.8311, -7.9427 8eh* 15 MILLS AT XERTELO Ruins of an ancient water mill system to connect the mountain streams. There are several square stone towers and ancient wells to explore in these wild hills. Xertelo is N of Cabril, on the M308. Park in ,, the village and walk uphill. 2 mins, 41.7368, -8.0123 he* 16 SANTA LUZIA CHAPEL, CELA A tiny chapel with spell-binding views across the Serra do Gerês makes a glorious picnic spot. Pilgrims to this chapel leave tiny piles of balanced stones, known as mariolas. Their simple presence is enchanting. Cela is W of Paradela, on the M308. Park in ,, the village and walk down to the chapel.

5 mins, 41.7666, -7.9775 h6Wz

wild walks 17 TRILHO DAS SILHAS DOS URSOS, GERÊS Brown bears roamed these hills until the late 17th century. You can still see the stone structures, silhas, nearly 3m in height, which kept the beehives out of their reach. This 5km signed & circular walking route passes the silhas and swimming spots with beautiful views across the Gerês hills. From Gerês, take the M533 towards Campo ,, de Gerês. At the Lamas junction, about half way, take the forest track to the R, SP Junceda. Leave the car at the Junceda Miradore, and walk the rest of the track as far as the Casa de Junceda, then follow the walking route signs. Cm-terrasdebouro.pt/rede_trilhos_pedestres/ files/PR-11.pdf 2 hrs, 41.7456, -8.1696 hez 18 TRILHO DO RABAGÃO A 13km linear, signed walking route (PR5) which begins in Vilarinho de Negrões, on the S banks of the Rabagão reservoir, and ends at the village of Criande, taking in the ancient, rural towns of Morgade and Lamachã along the way.

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Begin by the church at Vilarinho de Negrões ,, and follow yellow/red signs out of town along Rua Principal. 3.5 hrs, 41.7376, -7.8013 zhD*s 19 TRILHO DE D. NUNO, SALTO The town of Salto has Roman origins and mamoas or megalithic tumuli are hidden in the magical woodland here. You can take the PR8 walking route, a signed 22km circular trail, through the woods. Don’t forget to scatter a handful of earth if you pass a mamoa . PR8 Trilho de D. Nuno begins in Salto at the ,, Ecomuseu de Barroso, Rua Central 77, 5470430 Salto +351 253 659 318 4.5 hrs, 41.6399, -7.9470 h*

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pilgrimages 20 SÃO JOÃO DA FRAGA A tiny mountain chapel with extraordinary views across the Gêres mountains. A pilgrimage is made every June from the small village of Pitões da Júnias to this chapel. To reach this chapel from Pitões das Junias ,, there is a 4.5km winding mountain track which leads from Pátio da Raposeira, the road behind Taberna Terra Celta. 1.5 hrs, 41.8307, -7.9747 8h*kvz

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adventure activities 21 PARAGLIDING SERRA DO LAROUCO The source of the River Cavado and, as the third highest mountain in Portugal at 1,535m, a popular paragliding spot. Call +351 210 848 878 for Beginners’ Paragliding: Wind-cam.pt. From Montalegre take the N103-9 N for ,, 13km towards Spain. Turn R at Padornelos, and continue uphill. Park where you can, then walk. 5 mins, 41.8842, -7.7210 h6*

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22 CABRIL ECO RURAL An equestrian centre where you can meet or ride the ancient breed of endangered Garrano ponies native to Galicia and northern Portugal. They can still be seen wild on these hills. Rua do Passadiço 4, Lugar da Vila, ,, 5470-013 Cabril +351 968 065 345, Ecoruralcabril@gmail.com 2 mins, 41.7138, -8.0355 Dhxg

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23 GERÊS EQUI’DESAFIOS Horse trekking and adventure play park with rope swings and treetop walkways. Rua de S. João 93, Campo do Gerês, 4840,,

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Serra Do Gerês & Montalegre

030 Terras de Bouro +351 917 919 831, Equidesafios.com 1 min, 41.7503, -8.1964 sgx7W

regional food 24 RESTAURANTE O CASTELO Montalegre is famous for the barrosã breed of cattle, a wide-horned bison with a soft umber coat, which produces a tender steak, vitela barrosã. They serve it perfectly here, char-grilled and pink inside. Try with a glass of local red wine. Terreiro Açougue 1, 5470-250 Montalegre ,, +351 276 511 237 41.8255, -7.7914 sYe 25 RESTAURANTE CABAÇO, VILAR DE PERDIZES A cosy restaurant behind a busy bar where the locals eat. The cook is cheerful and may pop out to chat to you. Try her bacalhau a cabaço. It’s delicious and can be your 1,001st way to cook salted cod. A great choice of regional dishes and wines. Vilar de Perdizes is on the M508 E of ,, Montalegre. Avenida da Igreja, 5470-461 Vilar de Perdizes +351 276 536 136 41.8543, -7.6328 Yskh 26 TABERNA TERRA CELTA, PITÕES DAS JÚNIAS An ancient tavern in touch with its Celtic roots. Visit for the folk nights in this dark but lively hub of the village. Hearty food with locally sourced ingredients. R. dos Caldeireiros 2, 5470-370 Pitões das ,, Júnias +351 960 316 315 41.8417, -7.9507 Ys

festas & fairs 27 FUMEIRO FESTIVAL, MONTALEGRE A festival celebrating the heritage of fine smoked meats – chouriça, presunto, alheria – try the best of the best with music, dancing and other regional fare. Montalegre, mid-late January. ,, 41.8256, -7.7908 gsYe 28 FRIDAY THE 13TH, MONTALEGRE A festival to celebrate Montalegre’s famous witch and all the wilder aspects of folklore, with a jovial twist. Circus artists, fire displays, storytelling, ,, strange costumes, dancing, street food and spell-weaving. Sextafeira13.org 41.8256, -7.7908 gsYqk

rustic havens

32 PARQUE CAMPISMO CERDEIRA A little village within Gerês with a welcoming family feel and a great restaurant for local dishes and wines. There is archery, a climbing wall and rappel, stone BBQs, bungalows and playing areas. Rua de Cerdeira 400, Campo de Gerês, ,, 4840-030 Terras de Bouro, Braga +351 253 351 005, Parquecerdeira.com 41.7637, -8.1900 sYqghd

bathroom and each yurt is traditionally handpainted with individual colours. It’s stunning when it snows here and the yurts stay toasty warm with their insulation. Cycling and hiking trails nearby and ‘Happiness Workshops’ on offer. Exquisite attention to detail. Rua do Forno 20, 5470-151 Fiães do Rio ,, +351 936 799 886, Nomadplanet-portugal.com 41.7761, -7.9285 h*7d

29 CASAS DE ENTRE-PALHEIROS, SEZELHE Three separate beautifully renovated barns with high ceilings, old beams and plenty of space for everybody. Located in the village 10 6Melgaçoa stone’s throw from Montalegre, 26 Prado of 25 Sezelhe, 23 Alvaredo Paderne where the 31 old traditions survive. A swimming poolSão in the Penso Paiogarden is sheltered by a canastro, their traditional corn house. Beautiful views out across the hills. A real treasure of a retreat. Casa Entre-Palheiros, Rua Entre,, 8 Parelheiros, Sezelhe, 5470-471 Montalegre ba de Mouro Parada do Monte +351 276 518 125, Termontalegre.net 17 32 41.8131, -7.8745 sgq

wilder campsites

33 GERÊS GREEN PARK A campsite on the wild banks of the River Cabril near several hiking trails in the national park. There are stunning mountain views and the campsite organises adventure activities such as canyoning. Cabril, 5470-013 Montalegre ,, +351 917 007 831, Geresgreenpark.com 41.7082, -8.0417 sgq7hd

31 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO, PENEDONES A simple campsite on the banks of the Rabagão reservoir; wake up to tranquil views across the water and take a long swim before breakfast. Alto Rabagão, 5470-069 Penedones ,, +351 965 898 040, Aquabarroso.com 41.7572, -7.8095 1sg

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wild glamping 30 NOMAD PLANET1 Four traditionally painted Mongolian yurts 16 in a field with panoramic views of the Gerês 11 mountains. The central tipi has a kitchen and

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Soajo 24 20 122

Lindoso

30 28 27 7

Britelo

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Vilar de Perdizes

26 8 14

4 4

Cibões

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12 32 Campo do Gerês 23 17 Covide

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Viade de Baixo

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Ventosa

Bobadela

Ferral

Alturas do Barroso

Louredo

Cova

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Montalegre

Salamonde

Sapiãos

Ruivães

Beça

Parada do Bouro João de Rei

Anelhe

Tabuaças Serzedelo

Cantelães Mosteiro

Calvos

hoso

Oliveira

Galegos

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Taíde

Garfe Arosa Gondomar

Redo

Boticas

Esperança

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Pinheiro

Pinho Dornelas

Arcossó

Vidago Canedo

Anjos

Rossas Brunhais Guilhofrei Sobradelo da Goma

Bucos

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Abadim

Rio Douro

Capeludos

Oura

Bragado

Sabroso de Ag

Vreia

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serra do alvão & vila real Our perfect weekend ,,Stargaze in Sabrosa as evening falls and night birds start up their calls. Drink dark Murça wine as the moon rises ,,Climb the deep Roman steps at Panóias, a temple to Serápis, and rest with your back on the sun-warmed stone ,,Grill a sausage on the hearth at ‘A Cabana’ mountain refuge, hidden in the Serra do Alvão ,,Cower under Fisgas de Ermelo waterfall as it cascades over 200m to the blue pool beneath ,,Ramble along old shepherds’ tracks to Lamas de Olo and drink at the fresh fountain ,,Picnic along the grassy banks of the babbling River Olo at Parque de Merendas de Ermelo ,,Breathe in the views as the sun sets over the heather hills of Nossa Senhora da Graça ,,Swim in the magical waters by the hermit’s chapel of São Pedro das Águias

Just north of the gentle, wine-growing Douro hills of central Portugal are the rockier, more dramatic crests and peaks of the Serra do Alvão. Water abounds in this region, bursting out as waterfalls from the mountains. At Fisgas de Ermelo the River Olo forms one of the highest waterfalls in Europe as it tumbles over rocks into green bathing pools. Explore the other waterfalls of Bilhó, Agarez and Galegos da Serra with a raft or canyoning. The cheerful pealing of bells over the Douro hills here marks each quarter hour. On the north banks of the River Douro, the wine regions of Sabrosa and Murça fall within the same echoing web. They joke that as you leave one parish and the bells fade, you can already here the approaching peals from the next, but it’s true.

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This region, defined by bells, is encompassed by its rivers and fountains. Ramble through the farming villages of Lamas de Olo, Fervença or Ermelo and you’ll pass countless stone fountains. These granite-built, thatched villages are surrounded by marshy wetland, lameiros, typical of Trás-osMontes. Thanks to ancient irrigation systems, the land has been farmed for centuries. The livestock is still of huge value to its community, and the cows, goats and geese are all herded back home at the end of the day.

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For fiery, ancient history head to Panóias, the remains of a Roman sanctuary to the Greco-Egyptian god of the underworld, Serápis. The ruins look south from Vila Real over a wild, rugged landscape. The stones’ gruesome use is prescribed in Latin on their side, blood channels carved over their edge. Although there were no human victims of this resurrection cult, men and women would visit to spend the night on one of these rocks and see in the dawn as a symbol of their rebirth. Lie with your own back to the rock in the beating sun, and feel the fires, incense and euphoria of the forgotten cult of Serápis.

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Vila Real has many regional peculiarities; the ‘conventual’ cakes, originating in convents, variations on a theme of eggs, sugar and cinnamon, are heavenly. Ask at a pastelaria for cristas de galo, covilhetes or cavacórios to fuel your adventures. The alheira sausage, a favourite in Portuguese mountain areas, made with blood and bread is known as moura. Our preferred place for moura is ‘A Cabana’, a mountain refuge deep in the Alvão woods where the meat cures on hooks by the fireplace. 64

Serra Do Alvão & Vila Real

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wild swims 1 PRAIA FLUVIAL RIO RABAÇAL, VALPAÇOS This deep, green river has wide grassy banks for a picnic or a snooze in the sun. Although crossed by the road over an arched bridge, it is still peaceful. Popular for canoeing, rafting and fishing as well as bathing. From Valpaços take the R206 towards ,, Bouça, park before the second bridge. 10 mins, 41.6305, -7.2485 1W2 2 CASCATAS DO BILHÓ A set of waterfalls and blue pools formed by the Cabrão river. They are just off the road and continue for about 300m up where there are a few old mill houses. Park in Bilhó and walk 1km S along the road ,, to Cavernelhe. 10 mins, 41.3967, -7.8479 =T1 3 CASCATA DE GALEGOS DA SERRA A magical waterfall that drops down from a height of about 8m into a blue green pool. Just off a fairly quiet road, it’s surrounded by the typical Alvão landscape of rocky outcrops and tiered hills.

From Galegos da Serra take the road to ,, Agarez for 700m until the parking area and information board. 2 mins, 41.3253, -7.7995 =1T

‘Parque Merendas de Ermelo’. Parking. 2 mins, 41.3626, -7.8967 W1qh

4 PIOCAS DAS FISGAS DE ERMELO High jagged rocks lead down to a clear deep green pool. ‘Fisgas’ means ‘slingshots’ and the waterfall here certainly propels itself over a terrifying height. One of the tallest waterfalls in Portugal, the River Olo cascades over 200m. From Ermelo head N on the N304 towards ,, Mondim de Basto. There are a number of turnings for Fisgas. For the views and some pools turn R at the T-junction for Varzigueta (after 4km). Follow and park at signs for Piocas de Cima. Take the footpath down to the gorge. Sheer drop over cliff-face and scrabbly path. 20 mins, 41.3793, -7.8634 =T1v

6 EREMITÉRIO DE SÃO PEDRO DAS ÁGUIAS Set in the rocks by the River Távora, this hermit’s chapel to St Peter of the Eagles was built in 991 to protect those fleeing from Moorish rule. Hundreds of animals carved into its stone suggest pre-Christian symbolism. Many legends abound; one is of Princess Ardinga, daughter of a Moorish king, who fell in love with a Christian knight Don Tedo and was beheaded by her father and the river ran red. But this was a long time ago, somewhere between truth and mystery. Now there is a beautiful swimming spot further along with clear, deep water and smooth stones. From Granjinha follow the tiny CM1116 ,, down to the River Távora and the hermit’s chapel at the bottom. 25 mins, 41.0757, -7.5135 zh18W

5 PARQUE DE MERENDAS DE ERMELO The River Olo babbles over smooth stones and past foxgloves which line the banks in spring. The picnic area has a BBQ grill, football pitch, frogs and wild flowers. A perfect lazy Sunday picnic spot. From Mondim de Basto take N304 towards ,, Ermelo. After 20 mins see wooden plaques to

ancient & sacred

7 NOSSA SENHORA DA GRAÇA From its lofty peak at 947m above sea level, the snake-backed summit bearing Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Graça can be seen throughout Mondim. A site of pilgrimage in

10 XX early September, the sanctuary has legends from Moorish conquerors, fishermen, Romans and hermits. From Mondim de Basto follow the N312 N ,, until Pedravedra, then take a slight R to follow signs uphill to Nossa Senhora. Parking. 5 mins, 41.4167, -7.9155 6h8e 8 CHURCH BELL, TESTEIRA A church bell that can be rung from the outside in this old schist village, typical of Alvão. Relva, Corto, Cravela, Ferreiros are just ,, some of the other mountain villages here that are worth exploring. 2 mins, 41.3507, -7.7472 e68h

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9 SANTUÁRIO DE PANÓIAS The remains of a 2nd century AD Roman temple to Serápis, god of the underworld. Walk around the ruins and imagine the sacrificial Roman cult performing their rites here. Climb the central altar rock and look out over the vista. A place charged with history. From Vila Real take the N322 N through ,, Mateus. Continue on the N322, pass Constantim and cross the A4, take the second L and follow signs to the Santuário. Parking. 1 min, 41.2834, -7.6819 8hQ

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Serra Do Alvão & Vila Real

sunsets & stargazing 10 BARRAGEM LAMAS DE OLO Watch from a small peak as the sun goes down over the reservoir. As the moon rises over the open expanse, the undisturbed darkness and wildness make this is a wonderful spot for stargazing. From Vila Real take the IP4. Exit N at ,, Junction 26, and head for Borbela / Lamas Olo / Dam Alvão (M313). When you’re close to the N end of Barragem Cimeira, park along the dust track and walk. 5 mins, 41.3561, -7.7941 h*6z

rural villages 11 BARREIRO An old granite village, an aldeia, with a couple of espigueiros, granaries. A beautiful picnic spot next to a winding river in fields, on the way to Ermelo from Barreiro. From Lamas de Olo turn off the M313 at ,, signs towards Ermelo; Barreiro is en route. 5 mins, 41.3728, -7.8312 zhW* 12 LAMAS DE OLO A simple rural village with granite houses and a water fountain so cool it will entirely

XX 12 mist-up your water bottle. Livestock is an important feature of this village as are the espigueiros, granaries, between the houses. Take your mountain water on the signposted walking route from here (see 14). If you are entering from the M313 park just ,, outside town and walk in. 2 mins, 41.3724, -7.7956 esh

hikes & bikes 13 CICLOVIA, RIVER CORGO This cycle route follows the old railway for about 15km connecting Vila Real with Vila Pouca de Aguiar. It follows the River Corgo through the wild Marão and Alvão mountains, passing the Mateus Palace, the Roman bridge at Piscais and numerous wild spots for a dip in the Corgo river. Can also be followed on foot or by horse. The cycle route begins just before the ,, Abambres Gare Station and ends on the county boundary before Vila Pouca de Aguiar (41.4067, -7.6833). 1 hr, 41.3075, -7.7230 c1hWz 14 TRILHO BARREIRO-LAMAS D’OLO A signed, circular 13km walking trail which passes reservoirs, old stone villages, springs

and rivers with their marshy lameiros grass, oak and pine trees. From Lamas de Olo take the M313 S and ,, turn R just before the reservoir. Park here, near the first sign, and begin the walk. 4 hrs, 41.3567, -7.7960 zh1es 15 TRILHO AGAREZ-ARNAL This 6.5km signed, circular trail leaves the village of Agarez and continues past grazing cattle into the mountainous area of Galegos da Serra. The path is a little more demanding, up steep hills, but the rewards are views across the valley even as far as Vila Real. From Lamas de Olo take the road S into ,, Agarez; from Agarez continue on the M1214 towards Galegos da Serra. About halfway, R, there is the first sign for the walk. Park. 1.5 hrs, 41.3225, -7.7922 zh1e 16 TRILHO DO ARQUINHO This 5km signed, linear walking route follows the Via Augusta XVII, the Roman way through woods connecting the village Possacos with Lugar da Barca on the River Rabaçal. It forms part of the Great Route 117 (GR117) which goes some 800km through Portugal and Spain. This walk is more gentle, taking you over a Roman bridge on the River Calvo, and by

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orchards, vineyards and village picnic areas. Start in the picnic area just E of Possacos ,, (information board and parking). Continue on the track and cross over the R206. The walk ends where the R206 crosses the Rabaçal river at (41.6328, -7.2474). 1.25 hrs, 41.6169, -7.2692 zh1e 17 PARQUE FLORESTAL VILA REAL Wild and unkempt for a city park. The River Corgo babbles by and there are plenty of picnic tables along its banks, sometimes even a tethered horse. If you enter Vila Real from S along the N2, ,, park along Avenida 1st Maio by the allotments. Walk down the narrow allotment path, along the river, and follow river until the park. 20 mins, 41.2996, -7.7403 zW1

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regional wines & food 18 DOURO RIVER BOAT RIDE Take a traditional Rabelo boat upstream as far as the mouth of the River Tua. This two-hour tour passes wine-producing farmhouses, terraced hills touching the river and vineyards – riverbanks unseen from the road. The boat will stop for you to take a swim in the Douro. An audio guide is offered, as well as a glass of Port or Moscatel. Rua Marginal do Pinhão (in front of the ,, Vintage House Hotel garden gate), 5085-037 Pinhão +351 913 129 857, Magnificodouro.pt 41.1894, -7.5441 Y12“

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19 PADARIA FLOR-CARVALHO GONÇALVES & FILHOS, COVAS DO DOURO These tiny towns in the tiered Douro hills – Covas do Douro, Donelo, Gouvães do Douro, Calvário – all have stunning views of the Douro landscape and an untouched, hidden charm. There is a good padaria (bakery) at Covas do Douro where you can refuel, but it’s open mornings only. Rua Brasil 1, Covas do Douro 5085-205 ,, +351 254 732 670 41.1895, -7.5943 sh

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20 ADEGA COOPERATIVA VILA REAL Sustainable, traditional farming techniques are used to produce this award-wining Douro wine, sold here at low prices. Tawny and white port can be tried here too. Call ahead for a wine-tasting and to buy the wine. Vale Frio - Folhadela, 5000-101 Vila Real ,, +351 259 330 500, Adegavilareal.com 41.2741, -7.7191 26 XX

Serra Do Alvão & Vila Real

21 QUINTA DO INFANTADO, CHANCELEIROS This 8th-generation adega and vineyard has a traditional feel with bare stone and lots of ancient looking barrels. The Port made here is wonderful and the grapes are trodden in the traditional granite lagares rather than using modern processes. Try Roseira Douro DOC 2011, a complex, floral red wine and Quinta do Infantado Port 2011, medium dry. Call ahead for a tasting or to participate in a harvest day. Drop in any time to buy a bottle. Quinta do Infantado, 5085-217 Pinhão ,, Chanceleiros, Vila Real +351 254 738 020 41.1743, -7.5801 sY7 22 RESTAURANTE ‘A CABANA’ A cosy family-run cabin in the woodland of Serra do Alvão. Relax outside in seats carved in the trees. Inside homemade alheira sausages hang in front of the log fire. Ask for one to be grilled in the hearth and try the hearty soup and mountain bread. From Vila Real take the M313 towards ,, Lamas de Olo. Pass the lakes and A Cabana is on your L in the woods just before Lamas. 5000-142 Lamas de Olo +351 259 341 745 41.3697, -7.7980 esY 23 ADEGA SETE CONDES A rustic restaurant, though in town, and a great place to try regional dishes, grilled alheira sausage, local breads and the sparkling Vinho Verde ‘Nossa Senhora da Graça’. Rua Velha, 4880-256 Mondim de Basto ,, +351 255 382 342 41.4116, -7.9532 Ysq

wilder camping & stars 24 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO DE MONDIM DE BASTO A beautiful woodland campsite that runs down to a river with espigueiros – traditional corn houses – on its banks. Horses are kept in stable nearby and it’s a small stroll to the medieval bridge. Lugar de Montão, 4880-187 Mondim de ,, Basto +351 255 381 650 41.3997, -7.9519 1h7d 25 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO DO RABAÇAL A campsite on the banks of the River Rabaçal. There is a sandy river beach and woodland which gives shady pitches. Dogs, bungalows, food, bar, wifi. Parque de Campismo do Rabaçal, Possacos, ,, 5430-191 Valpaços +351 278 759 354 41.6321, -7.2475 h71d

rustic retreats

26 SABROSA Bivvy up, wild camp and drink Murça wine under the stars then fall asleep to the distant chiming the hilltop church bells. 9 of30 716 low mist rising off tiered 5 to the Wake 31 vineyards of the Douro valley. 15 11 Head S out of Sabrosa on the N323 until ,, 18 you pass the miradouro, a small gazebo 22 1 633 structure. Park here and wander down a few tiers of the hillside. 5 mins. 41.2463, -7.5783 2 *hY

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28 ALVÃO VILLAGE CAMPING Overlooking the River Torno’s Barragem da 27 CASA DO VISCONDE DE CHANCELEIROS Falperra, this newly built camping village echoesVila theVerde traditional An elegant, 18th century manor house, da RaiaPortuguese aldeia. Round stone-built castreja houses are now a guesthouse with 12 bedrooms, pool Outeiro Seco elegantly furnished within. There is space for and a terrace with views over the Douro Santa Cruz (Trindade) camping, caravans and campervans as well countryside. Drink a glass of Port on the Faiões Vale de Anta Chaves as a restaurant, bar and pool. terrace and watch the sun go down. Santa Maria Maior Madalena Alvão Village Camping, Lagoa da Falperra, Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros, 5085-2 ,, ,, 5450-261 Vila Pouca de Aguiar Pinhão Beça +351 254 730 190, Chanceleiros.com Vilar de Nantes Samaiões+351 259 419 038, Alvaovillagecamping.pt Boticas 41.1731, -7.5777 sgY São Pedro de Agostém 41.5062, -7.6628 sg1d

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montesinho & braganĂ§a Our perfect weekend ,,Celebrate the regional Miranda do Douro donkey at L Burro i L Gueiteiro festival with dancing and donkey parades ,,Crawl under the heavy stones of Anta da Zedes, a megalithic dolmen built some 5,000 years ago ,,Gorge on the smoked meats and delicious dishes made from bĂsaro pork at Feira de Fumeiro de Vinhais ,,Watch sunset crown the hills with gold from the dark towers of Algoso castle ,,Marvel at Rupestrian rock engravings some 22,000 years old in Vale do CĂ´a ,,Listen out for the birdsong over the calm waters of Azibo reservoir ,,Follow the Roman way from Moimenta back to the wild banks of the Tuela river ,,Look out for wild deer as dusk falls over the Montesinho hills ,,Picnic on a regional fare of local cheese, smoked meats and fresh bread by Praia Fluvial de Uva

Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro, ‘Beyond the Mountains and Above the Douro’, in the north-eastern tip of Portugal is as far-flung as its name suggests. This borderland, disputed for centuries, has given rise to an extraordinary culture, neither Spanish nor Portuguese but distinctly Trasmontano. So much so that their own language, Mirandese, is officially recognised and still spoken in the border towns. The international borders disappear further under ties of friendship. One warm evening, we met a couple from the village of Rio de Onor strolling arm in arm, who had just crossed from Portugal to see her mother, who lives over in Spain. Ancient divisions disappear under familial ties and now, also, dissolved by a growing number of festivities.

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The slate-built villages in the Montesinho Natural Park repose on the hills as the River Onor sparkles by on its quick paced journey. In the quiet village of Mofreita one woman insisted she show us her beehives buzzing under the chestnut trees and heavy sun. The secret to this region’s abundant chestnut trees and dark honey is simple, she says: partnership. The bees pollinate the chestnuts, and the blossom feeds the honey.

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Neighbouring Moimenta has ramshackle houses with lichen-covered stones and lazy donkeys nodding in the sun. A Roman way leads down the hill, along wide flagstones, and over a medieval bridge on the River Tuela. Cool off with a dip where the water is deep and fresh. In late October the village of Sendim celebrates the Mirandese’s own particular breed of donkey, the burro da Miranda, with street parties. But the iconic image of the region is the masked figure in a colourful fringed costume: the careto. At carnival, Easter or between Christmas and New Year you can see them running down the streets, whistling and whirling wildly.

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Trás-os-Montes is renowned for steaks and smoked meats. Just before Lent, Vinhais has a fumeiro festival where hundreds of regional producers gather to sell their smoked meats: alheira, chouriço, presunto and salpicão. At twilight these borderlands are home to wild deer. Tread quietly up the hills from Onor and you may catch a glimpse. As we crept in the neardarkness, a doe bucked out from the heather and fled over the hills. Within seconds we lost sight as she faded into the lilac-grey mountains stretching out into Spain. This is where the wild things are, heedless of borders. 72

Montesinho & Bragança

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rivers & lakes 1 PRAIA FLUVIAL DE UVA A wide, still river with tall trees and views up the sides of the Algoso valley. There are picnic tables here in the shade. A perfect place to unwind on the grassy banks. From Vale de Algoso (between Vimioso and ,, Mogadouro) take the road towards Uva and turn L when you cross the river. 1 min, 41.4925, -6.5259 W1 2 PRAIA FLUVIAL DA FRAGA DA PEGADA Dive down into the Azibo Reservoir from the long grasses of this fluvial beach. It can be busy in summer but on a quiet evening the birdsong is enchanting. Turn off the N15/A4 at junction 37, ,, following signs to Praia Fluvial/ Albufeira do Azibo and follow road 8km until beach. 2 mins, 41.5817, -6.8983 D1k 3 ECOPARK AZIBO A hilltop getaway within the Azibo Geopark offering eco-breaks centred around the reservoir. Activities here include snorkelling, kayaking, catamaran trips and paddle boarding; all begin at the wooded banks of the Azibo Reservoir.

Núcleo de Salselas, 5340-400 Salselas, ,, Macedo de Cavaleiros +351 278 448 019, Ecoparkazibo.com 1 min, 41.5592, -6.8837 g21zsh6 4 CAIS FLUVIAL DO SENDIM A well-guarded secret down a none-tooaccessible road, dusty and steep. But the deep green Douro that sweeps out before you makes it worth all the effort. From Sendim take R. do Baiunco (41.3824, ,, -6.4193) for 5km, keeping R, down the dusty track. Before it descends too sharply, park and walk remaining distance. 20 mins, 41.3505, -6.4166 1Dh 5 PRAIA FLUVIAL MIRANDA DO DOURO Dip in the slow-moving Douro at this beach looking out to Spain. From Miranda do Douro follow the N218 ,, and signs to Praia Fluvial down the hill. 2 mins, 41.4933, -6.2689 h1DTk 6 PRAIA FLUVIAL FRESULFE, VINHAIS Wide, grassy banks and granite picnic tables line the edge of this river beach on the River Tuela. A small dam widens the river before it runs on into woodland past the old mill.

Alders lean over the water and there’s a diving platform further upstream. From Fresulfe follow signs to the Praia ,, Fluvial. Parking. 1 min, 41.8968, -6.9381 h1TWsq 7 PRAIA FLUVIAL DA PONTE DE FRADES Just before the Rabaçal river heads south out of Montesinho Natural Park, you can find this quiet beach. It’s surrounded by greenery, with clear, slow water. From Frades head N and then turn R at the ,, junction. Continue for 3km along this road until you cross the river, turn L and park along dirt track. 1 min, 41.8656, -7.1195 h1DW 8 PARQUE DE MERENDAS, RIO ANGUEIRA A picnic area on the grassy banks with tables and BBQ. The occasional fisherman further upstream. Deep, cool and dark water where the river widens a little. From Vimioso take the N218 E, towards ,, Caçarelhos for about 3km, R at signs to Parque de Merendas. 5 mins, 41.5717, -6.4982 1WD 9 PRAIA FLUVIAL DA PONTE DE SOEIRA

XX 10 A fluvial beach in a kink of the Tuela river. Large flat rocks jut out to form jumping platforms when the water is deep enough. Surrounded by woods and greenery. Along the N103 from Vinhais towards ,, Bragança, pass Vila Verde as the road dips, and park before the old bridge. 2 mins, 41.8470, -6.9368 1h

a name that testifies to folk conflation of much older history with the comparatively recent Moorish occupation. Traces of wavy carving can be seen on the inner stones. Approach Zedes village from the east on ,, the M628 and it’s 500m before the village. Park and follow signs down the dirt track. 10 mins, 41.2753, -7.2935 zhQW

10 PONTE MEDIEVAL DA MOIMENTA A wide paved bridge over the River Tuela. The bridge may be medieval but it is on the Roman way and its bulk and weight could withstand the cavalry. Below, the Tuela offers a deep and thrilling respite from the walk. From Igreja de São Pedro, SE of the main ,, square in Moimenta, go L at the fountain and here begins the Via Romana. Follow the lane/ stream with heavy flagstones (later changing to flat stones) winding downhill. Continue until you reach the hidden Roman bridge. 20 mins, 41.9426, -6.9696 hzD1W

12 ARTE RUPESTRE DO VALE DO CÔA This 17km stretch along the Côa river valley holds thousands of Palaeolithic rock engravings. Pictures of horses, cattle, deer, fish and human figures litter the rock. The oldest date back to almost 22,000BC, but people continued to make drawings for another 20,000 years, well into the Bronze Age. You can visit any of the 62 sites but it’s best to find the information centre and choose your site. Guided tours and night tours are available, pre-book. Closed Mondays. Museu do Côa, Rua do Museu, 5150-610 ,, Vila Nova de Foz Côa +351 279 768 260, Arte-coa.pt 1 hr, 41.0799, -7.1117 6Qzh“

ancient & holy 11 ANTA DE ZEDES A megalithic dolmen, which you can enter, with eight overlapping pillars and a roofslab. It’s known locally as Casa da Moura,

Montesinho & Bragança

sunset hilltops 13 CASTELO DE ALGOSO The remains of this 12th century castle stand looking out over the valleys of the Angueira and Maçãs rivers. 681m above sea level, you can see all of Trás-os-Montes and further out into Spain. A steep climb but worth it for the sunset. From Mogadouro take the N216 then N219 ,, N and keep straight, follow signs to Vimioso, passing Azinhoso and Peso. Turn R at signs for Castelo. Park by the fountain and walk. 5 mins, 41.4614, -6.5797 6e 14 CASTELO DE NUMÃO This rocky, wild castle sits atop a hill thought to have been occupied since Lusitanian times. Its long walls follow the shape of the hill, and a watchtower and cistern remain. A dramatic, romantic place to watch the evening draw in. From Freixo de Numão, follow signs for Castelo. ,, 1 min, 41.0686, -7.2425 e*6

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caves & ruins 15 FORNOS DE CAL E LORGA DE DINE This tiny village has several lime kilns half buried in the hill, easy walking from the centre and with beautiful views. Also ask here for directions to ‘Lorga de Dine’, a karst cave in the hillside with two chambers, used in the Bronze Age as a funerary cavity. For information visit the interpretation ,, centre in Dine. End of the road Bairro de Cima. 10 mins, 41.9111, -6.9285 z9he 16 CASTELO DE PENAS RÓIAS A 12th century fortress given to the Templar knights. By about 1758 it had fallen into ruin. Now overrun by the wild, it keeps its beautiful views over Azinhoso village and further out to Algoso castle. From Mogadouro take the N219 N and turn ,, off after 10km at signs for Penas Róias. Park in the village. 10 mins, 41.3922, -6.6539 6e*

horses & wildlife 17 CENTRO HÍPICO VINHAIS A riding school beside the Parque Biológico entrance. You can take a lesson, a hack on

horseback or a chariot ride out around the wild scenery of Montesinho. See Parque Biológico de Vinhais (see 29). ,, +351 273 771 040 1 min, 41.8585, -6.9872 xq“ 18 AZIBO GEOPARK A protected woodland area of 5,000 hectares with a reservoir in the middle. Home to hundreds of birds such as the swallow, lapwing, grebe, plover, egret, wagtail, falcon, eagle, merlin and hoopoe: bring your binoculars or keep your eyes peeled if you decide to walk one of Azibo’s signed walkways. From Mirandela take the A4 N towards ,, Bragança. Take the turning to Macedo de Cavaleiros and continue through this on the N216, turning L at signs for Vale da Porca. Follow signs to the Azibo Geopark. Geoparkterrasdecavaleiros.com 2 mins, 41.5592, -6.8837 D1h6 19 MILES AWAY NATURE TOURISM The Douro Valley is the oldest demarcated wine-growing region in the world and the Côa Valley holds the oldest known open-air, artistic expressions of mankind. Between them, that’s a lot of history. Miles Away is a

nature tourism company, run by locals, who will tailor an experience to your wishes, be it eagle-watching, a week’s mountain trekking, a day with a shepherd or a table awaiting you – miles away on a wild riverbank – bearing the best Douro wine and food from the region. Av. Dr. Artur Máximo Saraiva de Aguilar 8, ,, 2Esq. 5150-540 Vila Nova de Foz Côa +351 938 749 528, Milesaway.pt 1 min, 41.0840, -7.1410

xh67gs*QY“

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regional dishes 20 RESTAURANTE FRAGA DOS TRÊS REINOS, MOIMENTA The sort of restaurant that at lunch will simply bring you the dish they have on the stove. The grilled pork, porco grelhado, is very good as are the black beans with bacon. This is a great place to try local cuisine. Moimenta, 5320-070 Vinhais Bragança ,, +351 936 988 924 41.9484, -6.9750 sY

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21 RESTAURANTE VASCO DA GAMA, VINHAIS Small, quiet downstairs but upstairs there are more seats. A simple fare of local bread and dark wine in a clay pitcher while you wait. Try the vitela assada – oven baked meat with potatoes – and salad. Rua da Calçada 24, 5320-322 Vinhais ,, +351 931 314 251 41.8354, -7.0029 sY

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22 RESTAURANTE O TURISMO, MOGADOURO Despite its name this restaurant is popular with the locals and does amazing octopus rice, arroz de polvo, as well as a good number of traditional dishes and Douro house wine, at very low prices. Rua de Santa Marinha, 5200-241 ,, Mogadouro +351 279 106 558 41.3402, -6.7176 sY

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mountain festivities 23 FEIRA DO FUMEIRO VINHAIS With hundreds of Trasmontano producers of smoked meats, this is the best place to try the region’s famous bísaro pig. Weekend before Lent. 4730-440 Vinhais, Fumeiro.org ,, 41.8322, -7.0085 sYge 24 RONDA DAS ADEGAS, ATENOR In mid-June the village of Atenor comes alive with local gastronomy, traditional arts and crafts and many local wine merchants. Try a traditional bread-making workshop or a beer-brewing workshop. Rua da Igreja, Atenor. ,, Rondadasadegas.blogspot.pt 41.4224, -6.4804 sYg

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25 L BURRO I L GUEITEIRO This itinerant festival celebrates the Miranda do Douro traditions of donkeys,

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wandering and bagpipes. Local produce is bought and shared out on long tables and up to 20 donkeys parade into town. Each year a different aldeia within the ,, parishes of Miranda, Mogadouro or Vimioso hosts lunch, but the donkey parades travel to them all. Various locations. Last week of July. Aepga.pt 41.4592, -6.4448 sYe

rustic havens 26 CASA DOS PIMENTEIS Between Vimioso and Mogadouro is a rustic, six-bedroom guest house with pool and terrace but also the traditional rooms for smoked meats, a wood oven and open fireplaces. There are beautiful walks here; within 1km you can find the River Angueira. Vale de Algoso, 5230 Vimioso ,, Domingos Pimentel +351 964 011 817, Casadospimenteis.co.pt 41.4978, -6.5395 geh 27 PUIAL DE I DOURO In the midst of the Douro International Nature Park this 19th century house, courtyard and outhouses belonged to one of the most important farms in the village of Aldeia Nova. You can glimpse the River Douro and its rugged cliff sides from here while enjoying their library stocked with Mirandese literature or their cellar stocked with Douro wine. A beautiful breakfast of cakes, Mirandese honey, jams, cheeses and hams is served every day. Rua da Igreja, Aldeia Nova, 5210-170 ,, Miranda do Douro +351 273 432 820, Turismodourorural.com 41.5405, -6.2349 sgY 28 CASA DE ONOR In the heart of the Montesinho Natural Park this five-bedroom schist-built mountain house is typical of Trás-os-Montes. Just on the outskirts of the village of Rio de Onor, its wooden balcony looks out over the babbling River Onor below. You can dine on this balcony or cosy up with a book in one of the generously cushioned pews. Plenty of walks to follow up the hills nearby where you can see wild deer. Aldeia de Rio de Onor, R. Central 34, ,, 5300-821 Bragança +351 273 927 163, Casadeonor.com 41.9404, -6.6165 s1

wilder campsites

Alto da Cidadelha, 5320 Vinhais +351 273 ,, 771 040, Parquebiologicodevinhais.com 41.8589, -6.9883 D41gshd

29 PARQUE BIOLÓGICO DE VINHAIS Set within the Montesinho Natural Park, the Parque Biológico de Vinhais makes for a very wild stay. Bunk down in one of their log cabins or take a dip with the ducks in their natural swimming pool. A centre for wildlife protection, you can learn about the native trees, fungi, soil and flowers while also getting closer to the deer, fowl, wild boar and ponies native to the surrounding area.

30 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO CEPO VERDE A quiet campsite in the Montesinho Natural Park with beautiful mountain views and several hiking trails nearby. It is also home to the world’s largest pocket knife, listed in the Guinness Book of Records. Lugar da Vinha do Santo, 5300-561 ,, Gondesende Bragança +351 273 999 371,

cepoverde@montesinho.com 41.8458, -6.8605 hgd 31 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO, RIO DE ONOR A beautiful green campsite on the banks of the River Onor and walking distance from the typical Trasmontano village of Rio de Onor. Numerous hiking trails up into the hills where you might catch a glimpse of wild deer. Aldeia de Rio de Onor, 5300-821 Bragança ,, +351 273 927 061 41.9400, -6.6157 sgh1d

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Vale de Anta Chaves

ticas

Braganca

Santa Cruz (Trindade) Madalena Vilar de Nantes

Carrazedo de Montenegro

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Bornes de Aguiar

Macedo de Cavaleiros

Mirandela

Miranda do Douro

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Murça

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Torre de Moncorvo

Vila Nova de Foz Côa

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Freixo de Espada à Cinta

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menta da Beira Mêda

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porto & rio ave Our perfect weekend ,,Feel the pelt of the waterfalls on your shoulders as you swim at Quedas de Fervença ,,Look for the devil’s hoof marks printed deep on the rock at Nossa Senhora do Salto ,,Cross the Ave at Ponte D. Zameiro and follow the ancient pilgrim way of Caminho de Santiago ,,Run wild along the beaches by Vila do Conde Nature Reserve amid the primitive coastal landscape ,,Follow the Roman way from Ribadouro along the River Ovil ,,Feast on papas de sarrabulho – neither curry nor haggis – in Amarante and enjoy the dark Douro wines ,,Align yourself with the passage stones at Chã de Parada on the wild Baião hills and immerse yourself in the sunset ,,Make merry in the lost village of Quintandona and revel in Porto wines at Casa da Viúva

At sunset in Porto, gold rays catch the terracotta roof tiles, the city is enflamed and mirrored in the River Douro, curling beneath. At once golden and reflected darkly in the murky depths of its river, Porto and its district’s history are best understood through the glints and gleams of its rivers. Their histories are intertwined, snaking back along the watery courses from the hills of Baião, Amarante and further into the Douro region. The river-fed vineyards would send their wines back along the river to Porto on elegant rabelas boats. While the union of wine and the Douro is widely celebrated, there are other forgotten narratives of the region’s rivers. Old water mills, once spun by streams gushing through the hills and valleys, are scattered across the land. Their finely milled flour would produce the regional broa, a dense corn or rye bread with a thick crust. You used to be able to spot the millers here by the flecks of stone in their beards. You can see the mills in action in farms near Vizela or in Capela.

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Pack a picnic to fuel your adventures along hiking trails up to the many pre-Roman hill forts: Terroso, Monte Padrão, Sanfins or Monte Mozinho. One trail leads to Cividade de Bagunte, an Iron Age fort surrounded by woodland; it once guarded the River Ave and is still a beautiful spot to survey the hills. You can see the remains of ancient homes, animal houses and great gateways built under Roman occupation. These forts make a magical place for a sunset.

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Follow the rivers inland to Baião, where several megalithic dolmens crown the wild hills of Serra de Aboboreira, recalling ancient, wilder cultures who lived in this land. Taking the medieval road along Rota de São Bento will lead you past ruined inns up to the summit of Picotos; then return for a dip from the Aboadela river beach.

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Just north of Porto, Vila do Conde is one of Portugal’s oldest settlements. Phoenicians are believed to have docked here, and during the Portuguese Discoveries it excelled as a centre of shipbuilding. There’s a replica galleon moored in the harbour. Walking along the coast, past the fishermen’s heaped crab traps, the beaches are quiet but grooves in the rock left at São Paio by Iron Age settlers remind us that the wild is filled with voices from the past. 80

Porto & Rio Ave

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wild coast 1 VILA DO CONDE NATURE RESERVE See the coastline as the Celts would have first seen it, uninhabited by all but the wildlife. This is 380ha of varied landscape: dunes, wetland and cliffs by the mouth of the River Ave. A great place for birdwatching, but also keep an eye out for red squirrels. You can see their presence in signs such as pine cones gnawed to the quick. Park in nearby Areia and walk in. Be sure to ,, stick to footpaths. Metro from Porto runs to ‘Espaço Natureza’ station 30 mins walk away. 5 mins, 41.3175, -8.7395 *1D5zb 2 SÃO PAIO This is the only coastal Celtic settlement known in Portugal. You can see the rocks on which they sharpened their tools and possibly the remains of runic inscriptions sanctioning the passage of foreign vessels. There is a wooden walkway linking the beaches of São Paio with Praia de Labruge, both very quiet sandy coves enclosed by black rocks. Park in Vila Chã by the coast and walk S ,, along the beaches. 20 mins, 41.2822, -8.7312 zeQo

3 NAU QUINHENTISTA Vila do Conde was one of the most prolific centres of shipbuilding and, during the time of the Discoveries in the 15th and 16th centuries, carracks set sail to India from this harbour. Here you climb inside a replica galleon with statues of the crew – captain, scribe, chaplain, apothecary, cabin boy – about their tasks. There is even the quiet woman, a presence necessarily unknown by all but the chaplain, still hidden in her room. Park near the harbour at Vila do Conde. The ,, ship is docked opposite the boat museum. Tickets on the gangway. 2 mins, 41.3499, -8.7433 eq“ 4 ASSEMBLEIAS DE DEUS VILA CHÃ Come down to these beaches to see hundreds of crab traps and fishing nets piled next to small boats. These are fishermen’s beaches. Turn off the N13 at signs to Vila Chã, park ,, and walk along the seafront. 10 mins, 41.2909, -8.7333 eso

rivers & waterfalls 5 QUEDAS DE FERVENÇA Beautiful fresh waterfalls cascade over tiers of smooth rock as the River Leça gushes

through wild woodland. The water forms a pool of middling depth bordered by big smooth stones. Head S from Santo Tirso along the N105 ,, then M558-1 to Facho. The path is signed from Rua Pedras Pintas. 15 mins, 41.3023, -8.4485 =1h*z 6 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO TÂMEGA Broad trees shade grassy banks by a jetty into the wide and slow River Tâmega. It is crossed by a busy bridge further down but remains peaceful at this spot. Near the pretty granite village of Barrias. From Marco de Canaveses cross the ,, Tâmega on the N211 and turn L immediately (to cross back under the road) following signs to Parque Fluvial Tâmega. After 500m follow the sand track and park. 5 mins, 41.1973, -8.1591 1W 7 PRAIA FLUVIAL DE LARIM A grassy park with trees and picnic tables by the River Carneiro. There are little waterfalls and bridges over the river, a popular spot with the locals. Exit N15 at Larim and follow signs. Parking. ,, 5 mins, 41.2510, -8.0344 q1k

XX 12 8 PARQUE NATURAL NOSSA SENHORA DO SALTO The hills which flank the River Sousa form a steep, rocky gorge at this point, known as the Boca do Inferno, ‘Hell’s Mouth’. The river gushes through, forming deeper pools before rushing on. There is a legend that a knight was chasing a deer, in fact the devil incarnate, who leapt into this gorge. The knight and horse followed but invoked the name of Our Lady and were saved; you can still see the hoof marks left on the rock as they landed safely. A small chapel is built here, known as Our Lady of the Leap. From Aguiar de Sousa take the N319-2 ,, towards Alvre and ‘Salto’ is signed on your R as you cross under the A41. 2 mins, 41.1286 -8.4337 18*s 9 PRAIA FLUVIAL RUA-ABOADELA Here the River Ovelha curves and fills before a little weir. Grassy banks provide a lovely picnic spot by this old rural village with a medieval bridge just outside Aboadela. A walking route passes through here (see 24). From Amarante take the N15 to Paredes ,, then the M574 to Rua; follow signs L to the ‘Zona de Lazer’. 2 mins, 41.2775, -7.9957 1Wqz

Porto & Rio Ave

hilltop forts 10 CASTRO DO MONTE PADRÃO The occupation of this Celtic settlement began in the 9th century BC; it was inhabited until the medieval ages. Now you can take in spectacular views across the wooded hills and wander the low circular ruins. The Castro is signed from Monte Córdova. ,, 10 mins, 41.3127, -8.4490 heQ* 11 CASTRO DE MONTE MOZINHO This is a 1st century AD Roman hill fort with extensive groundwork, the largest of its kind in Portugal. Known locally as the ‘Dead City’, the entrance of the town was guarded by two giant statues of Galician warriors, now housed in the municipal museum. It commands incredible views over the Penafiel hills. From Galegos take the road S towards ,, Mosinho and after 1km turn L and follow brown signs for Castro de Monte. 5 mins, 41.1462, -8.3111 h*6Qez 12 CIVIDADE DE TERROSO Known in the Middle Ages as the Earthy City, this is an enchanting spot where you can explore the remains of circular houses typical of the Celtic tribes in Iberia before

Roman rule. This is one of the earliest Celtic settlements, begun in 800-900BC. From Póvoa de Varzim take the N205 ,, towards Terroso and follow signs to Cividade. 5 mins, 41.4125, -8.7205 hQe6 13 CIVIDADE DE BAGUNTE A Celtic hill fort hidden in eucalyptus woodland. It was later Romanised and occupied by Roman garrisons. This would have been a prominent and thriving hub, high up, guarding the entrance to the River Ave. You can walk barefoot along the remains of ancient streets, crossing worn lintels. Perfect for imaginative children to run wild. From Bagunte take the N309 and then ,, N306 north; after 1km follow brown signs to Cividade. Parking and a walk uphill. 10 mins, 41.3833, -8.6555 Qeh*z 14 CITÂNIA DE SANFINS A hilltop Iron Age fort built around the 1st century BC, the circular remains of the houses are interspersed with rocky granite outcrops. Now a rambling, wild city with beautiful views. Follow brown signs from Sanfins de Ferreira. ,, 10 mins, 41.3265, -8.3856 eh6*Qq

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ancient & sacred 15 MOSTEIRO DE SANTA MARIA DE POMBEIRO This is one of the oldest monastic institutions in Portugal. Documented since 853AD, it lay along two busy medieval trade routes and was used to house pilgrims. Now a little aqueduct runs through its land; there is a gargoyled water fountain and some walking trails (see 19). The surrounding fields make a peaceful picnic spot. From Felgueiras take the N101 N for 4km ,, and follow brown signs for Mosteiro. 5 mins, 41.3826, -8.2256 e8W 16 CHÃ DE PARADA This dolmen, rising up from the Serra de Aboboreira, surveys a wild heath and is much larger inside than it appears outside. A 4.5m entry passage leads to a dark, cool recess covered by a large granite slab, placed there around 5000BC. On its walls are engravings, one known locally as ‘the thing’ and the other as face oculada (face with eyes), easier to see if you visit at night with a torch. From Baião head S towards Zona ,, Industrial de Baião, turn R at sign ‘Estações Arqueológicas’ and continue up the hill. Pass

the riding centre, turn R and follow road for 6km. Alternatively, park here and walk as you will pass the Outeiro de Gregos and Meninas do Crasto dolmens (see 17 & 18), among others. 1.5 hrs, 41.2033, -8.0075 Qh* 17 OUTEIRO DE GREGOS DOLMENS Several tumuli, some with fallen slabs, rising up from the rocks and wind-torn heath of Serra da Aboboreira. They were built in the first half of the 4th millennium BC and command spectacular views across the Baião hills. See Chã de Parada, above. ,, 2 mins, 41.1871, -8.0410 Qh*6z

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18 CONJUNTO MEGALÍTICO DE MENINAS DO CRASTO Several 4th millennium BC tumuli surround a well-preserved dolmen with a roof slab. Its name means ‘Women of Crasto’, crasto being the word for a Roman hill fort, or it could refer to the more ancient pre-Roman tribes who inhabited these wild hills. See Chã de Parada (16). ,, 2 mins, 41.2010, -8.0211 Qh* XX 13

XX 23 20 CICLOVIA DA MARGINAL ATLÂNTICA A 4km stretch of cycle lane linking the beaches from the Forte de S. João Baptista, at the mouth of River Ave, to the Póvoa de Varzim harbour. Begin at the Fort de São João. ,, 1 hr, 41.3418, -8.7514 cz1

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hiking & biking 19 CAMINHOS MEDIEVAIS WALKING TRAIL This is a signed, circular 6km walking trail linking several medieval sites: villages, monasteries, bridges and a Roman causeway. It passes Mosteiro de Pombeiro as well as fountains, streams and the River Vizela. Begins and ends at Parque de Campismo de ,, Vila Fria (see 39). 1.5 hrs, 41.4142, -8.2349 1h*ez

Porto & Rio Ave

21 ROTA DAS RAÍZES This is a signed, 10km linear walking route from Ponte D. Zameiro (see 27), following the old Caminho de Santiago way along the River Ave, passing picturesque villages and old mills. It diverges from the Caminho and finishes at Cividade de Bagunte (see 13). The walk begins at Ponte D. Zameiro (see ,, 27) and is signed. 3 hrs, 41.3509, -8.6818 ehQ* 22 ECOPISTA DA LINHA DO TÂMEGA Journeying to Amarante by train used to be a very romantic passage made by trundling along tracks following the River Tâmega. Now fallen into disrepair, the tracks have been given a new lease of life as a 50km cycle route between Amarante and Arco de Baúlhe. Signed from Amarante train station. ,, 3 hrs, 41.2731, -8.0833 c

23 ROTA DO MARANCINHO This signed, circular 6km walking trek leads through pine woodland interspersed with gorse flowers, following a dirt track down to a hidden paradise by the Marancinho stream. The walk continues through oak, chestnut and cork forest, with vestiges of Roman roads. Begins and ends at the Igreja Românica in ,, Gondar. 1.5 hrs, 41.2635, -8.0314 D3z1 24 ROTA DE SÃO BENTO This 12km signed and circular route passes medieval roads and ruins of ancient inns, winding up the mountain in Picotos with views across the wooded mountains of Marão and the Aboadela valley. Look out for churned earth, signs of wild boars passing this way at night. Begins and ends at the Aboadela river beach ,, (see 9 for directions). 3 hrs, 41.2774, -7.9957 zh6e4 25 CALÇADA ROMANA DE RIBADOURO Follow this Roman way down paved flagstones, some 2,000 years old, leading through the beautiful Douro landscape. The way reaches north from the Douro, following

XX 27 the River Ovil, for about 3km. It was once part of a much wider network leading to Mérida in Spain. The entrance peeks out onto the national road, signed but small so be careful not to miss it. From Ribadouro take the N211 towards ,, Porto Manso. The way is signed at 400m after the church of António de Ribadouro. 45 mins, 41.0958, -8.0825 zeh* 26 REGADIO DA POTE FERREIRA WALKING TRAIL This signed, 3km linear route follows the Rio Ferreira past bridges, old mill houses and even an aqueduct which transports water across the steep sides of this river. The walk begins at the Núcleo Museológico ,, da Panificação (Museum of Bakery) at Ponte Ferreira, Valongo. 45 mins, 41.1883, -8.4589 1W

mills & museums 27 PONTE D. ZAMEIRO This 12th century bridge over the River Ave forms part of the Caminho de Santiago route. It is also home to a healthy number of ducks. The old men chatting on the bridge, adoptive guardians of said ducks, tend the mill house

and keep any stray ducklings inside. From Bagunte take the N306 S, first L and ,, follow, park before the old bridge. 1 min, 41.3509, -8.6817 1eW 28 MUSEU DA BROA The museum is composed of six recovered and functional mills by the stream which comes rushing down over the stones into Capela village. Here you can be transported back to the time when millstones worked day and night, without stopping, producing flour that gave sustenance to our ancestors in the form of broa, the region’s heavy cornbread. From Capela, head N on N319 towards São ,, Julião. The museum is just after the junction with M591 (leading to Figueira). Capela, Penafiel +351 933 484 761 2 mins, 41.1131, -8.3508 esq 29 MUSEU RURAL DO MARÃO A museum exhibiting collections of instruments relating to the traditional tasks of rural Marão: carpentry, basket-weaving, medicine, blacksmithing, baking and exhibitions on the local barro negro, black clay. Take the N211-1 W from Amarante. 2.5km ,, after the junction with N210, L into the small R do Rio for 500m. Rua do Rio 503,

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4600-642 Gondar +351 255 441 055, Museururaldomarao.com. Closed Mondays; 2–5.30pm Tuesday–Sunday 1 min, 41.2717, -8.1156 eq

local food 30 TASQUINHA DA PONTE, AMARANTE Step down off Amarante’s cobbled streets to this dim and cosy restaurant. The papas de sarrabulho here is to die for. This is a traditional Minho region dish made from pigs’ blood, chicken, smoked pork sausages, cumin, lemon and bread, flour or corn, served in a ceramic pot. It is strangely like a cross between curry and haggis and best accompanied with rojões á moda do Minho, firecracker potatoes and a glass of red Vinho Verde. Rua 31 de Janeiro 193, 4600-043 ,, Amarante +351 255 433 715 41.2686, -8.0773 esY

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31 TASKUINHA, VILA CHÃ, PORTO A little snack bar for the locals – with eccentric piratical embellishments – facing the beach. A nice place to enjoy the sunset and a drink. Av. dos Banhos 185, 4485-850 Vila Chã, ,, Porto 41.2900, -8.7326 sh1 32 FESTA DE PÃO DE LÓ, MOSTEIRO DE POMBEIRO For one weekend in late March to early April, the medieval cloisters of Mosteiro de Pombeiro (see 15) are host to this festival of sponge cakes: you can try bolinhol de vizela, pão de ló de ovar and pão de ló de ovos moles de castelo de paiva, among other regional specialities. There are children’s workshops in bread-making and monasteryrelated activities . Festivaldopaodelo.pt ,, 41.3827, -8.2259 esYq8

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33 CASA DO LAVRADOR This is a museu rural and restaurant dedicated to the old ways of life in the Baião mountain villages. They keep the past alive through exhibitions, workshops, reenactments in costume of harvest and holy festivities and, of course, through food. Here you can try local entradas: their presunto e salpicão, cebola rachada (stuffed onions) and the local hardy bread broa de milho. You have a choice of regional dishes and a truly celebratory array of puddings and wines. At the W end of Gaia, on the N108, turn N ,,

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Porto & Rio Ave

onto M580, SP Corujeiras. Casa do Lavrador is the large pink building on the L. Estrada N.ª Sr.ª do Martírio 667, 4640-414, Sta Cruz do Douro, Baião +351 254 885 143 Casadolavrador.pt 41.1242, -8.0155 esYq 34 CASA DO ALMOCREVE An elegant restaurant with high granite walls, wrought iron, twisted wood furnishings and wood burning ovens. They have a great selection of wines, displayed around the room, and a selection of regional dishes. Perhaps try the bazulaque, a pottage with offal made in a ceramic pot. Call ahead to order the heavenly lamb, pork or veal baked in the wood oven with rice. Guest rooms available and regional cooking workshops. Rua do Fontanário, Portela do Gôve, ,, 4640-270 Baião +351 255 551 226, Casadoalmocreve.pt 41.1235, -8.0421 sgYe 35 TASQUINHA DO FUMO, ALMOFRELA In the tiny village of Almofrela, lost in the Baião hills, is this small granite restaurant with low beams, bottles of wine and pictures of the family lining the walls. Generous portions of regional specialities served in clay pots and iron pans. In summer try the bacalhau na brasa com batata a murro, grilled cod with baked potatoes. In winter, they make cozido á portuguesa e os rojões com castanhas, stew with pork and chestnuts. The village is about 2.5km NW of Baião. Almofrela, 4640-101 Baião ,, +351 255 541 120 41.1757, -8.0571 sYq 36 CENTRO INTERPRETATIVO DA VINHA E DO VINHO, ANCEDE Since its foundation in the 12th century, the monastery of Santo André has been intertwined with local wine production. The wine produced in its lands was sent down the Douro for export at Porto, placing Ancede on the wine map long ago. Here you can visit its small exhibition centre about the cycle of vines and wines. Try ‘Lagar do Convento’ Vinho Verde made from monastery-grown Avesso grapes. Rua Eça de Queiroz, 4640-152 Baião ,, +351 255 540 550 41.1019, -8.0569 eqY“ 37 WINE BAR CASA DA VIÚVA Wine has been the physical, spiritual and fiscal sustenance for many of the inhabitants

of Porto district down the ages. This history is celebrated at the village of Quintandona’s ‘Widow’s House’, an old schist stone house, once used for grain storage, now turned wine bar. Feast on local cheeses and smoked meats while you sample their cornucopia of wines. Follow M592 S from Fonte Arcada, pass ,, the M319 junction and follow brown signs to Quintadona. Rua de Quintandona, 4560195, Lagares, Penafiel +351 255 753 603, Santa Maria Maior 17 Winebarcasadaviuva.pt Do Castelo 18 27 Viana do-8.3798 Castelo sYhe 3041.1338,

wilder camping

38 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO RURAL DE VILA FRIA A green, friendly campsite within walking distance of the River Vizela. Grassy spots to pitch under shaded woodland, and a kids’ swimming pool. A couple of signed walking routes begin here and there are beautiful wooden bungalows. Arcozelo Esposende Rua da Raposeira, 4610-842 Felgueiras Barcelos ,, +351 255 346 403 41.3919, -8.2291 sgq1d

banks of the River Ave. Dappled shade and grassy spaces, BBQ and bar, and chickens that run about free. Fresh bread delivered for breakfast. About 1km S of the centre of Ferreiró. Rua ,, da Mocha 396, 4480 – 250 Ferreiró, Vila do Conde +351 252 657 732, Campingave.net 41.3452, -8.6316 1gshqd

42 CASA VALXISTO A large, elegant guesthouse by the sleepy 16 5 7 village of23 Quintandona with rooms named 17 after fruits and flowers of the farm and 15 decorated with rural objects, reclaimed11 furniture and with colours inspired 22 by the 633 3 10restaurant. surrounding hills. Pool and Rua Padres da Agostinha 233, 4560-195 ,, Lagares Penafiel +351 255 752 251, Valxisto.pt 2 41.1354, -8.3780 sYg

rustic retreats 40 QUINTA DE CARCAVELOS A beautiful 17th century manor house and farm set in the Tâmega valley with 14 magnificent views to the mountains. Wake up to a pool, a choice of nearby walks and the sweet scent of the surrounding lemon groves. Rua de Carcavelos, Vila Meã, 4605,, 115 Amarante +351 255 734 426, Quintacarcavelos@clix.pt 41.2794, -8.1207

Braga 41 CASA DO AGUIEIRO São Vítor Joséin dethe Sãovillage Lázaro of A little schistBraga stoneSão house Quintandona with two double bedrooms, kitchen and living room. It’s a cosy retreat in the Penafiel hills, near a walking trail up to the Pegadinha mountain and just opposite a hidden gem of a wine bar, Casa da Viúva (see

39 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO DO AVE A beautifully secluded camping site on the

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Guimarães

Vila Nova de Famalicão

Póvoa de Varzim

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Calendário

Vila do Conde

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37). An annual Broth Festival takes places here in September and ‘Os Comodeantes’ stage regular plays in the village. Quintandona, 4560 Penafiel +351 255 752 ,, 382, geral@casaxine.org 41.1336, -8.3797 eh

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Santo Tirso São Martinho

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Lavra

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arouca & alvarenga Our perfect weekend ,,Picnic on the banks of the Paiva river by the slate stone village of Meitriz ,,Wend your way to the wild pilgrim church Capela de São Pedro ,,Wonder at the strange pedras parideiras, ‘stones that give birth’ ,,Cower from the brink of the mountain at Portal do Inferno ,,Bunk down in traditional stone houses at Quinta da Vila and fling open your windows to spectacular views ,,Discover Drave, an abandoned mountain village, accessible only by foot ,,Swim up to Lovers’ Isle, Ilha dos Amores, in early morning sunlight ,,Dine on rich arouquesa steak and dark red wine ,,Brave the rapids at the Garganta do Paiva as white water rushes out ,,Wander up Serra de Montemuro and pass by the old wolf traps

Around 280 million years ago a great force pushed together quartz, feldspar and biotite deep under the granite rocks in present-day Arouca. Arouca Geopark, recognised by UNESCO as a geological site of exceptional importance, is an enormous wild geology museum, its rocks valued for the clues they give as to our origins, strange predecessors and Earth’s wonderful history. These ancient events, once held deep within the rock, today surface as pedras parideiras, ‘stones that give birth’. You can see these birthing stones at Castanheira, their glinting nodules popping out of weathered rock. Locals put them under their pillows: “they say you’ll have lots of children”. Whether these popping stones are understood as geological curiosities, as ancient symbols of fertility, or both, they testify to a very long history.

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The history told by the geology of Arouca is strange and marvellous. More than anywhere else, the rock here holds ancient secrets about the Earth’s birth, age and one of our stranger predecessors, the trilobite. These distant creatures occupied the ocean floor many million years ago and some of the largest trilobite fossils, reaching 70cm, can be seen in the slate here.

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In spring, a great swathe of deep purple and yellow flowers, heather and carqueja , carpets the mountains of Serra de Montemuro and Serra da Freita, and weather-wizened faces crack into smiles. Wild mountain paths interlace over the hills. Follow the new Paiva walkway along the river and reach wild places hitherto inaccessible. Geological patterns left over millennia have earned its name ‘the Paiva library’: not only does it tell ancient stories but it resembles heavily stacked bookshelves. Albeit carpeted in springtime flora, in May we found ourselves driving blind through heavy white cloud. We were forced to seek shelter in an abandoned mountain refuge where wind tore through the pines, cracked open shutters and howled through empty rooms. Emerging into bright sun the next day, we were re-introduced to the road we had taken: Portal do Inferno. It deserves its name, as either side of its skinny spine plunges away to devastating depths. A road for the bravest of travellers. The most intrepid souls here are the herds of mountain goats who gambol over the craggy peaks and trot away at your approach with kicks and jingling bells.

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water 1 ZONA BALNEAR AREINHO A beautiful bathing spot in the cool, clear River Paiva near a wooden walkway. Pine trees cover the steep valley sides. From Vilarinho take the R326-1 E for 2km ,, towards Miudal. At (40.9538, -8.1740) turn R and park. 2 mins, 40.9528, -8.1758 1hz 2 PAIVA RIVER WALKWAY This wooden walkway, stretching 8km along the Paiva, allows previously inaccessible wild places to be seen, places such as Garganta do Paiva and Cascata das Aguieiras. It also passes fluvial beaches. The walkway stretches from Espiunca ,, (40.9929, -8.2114) to Areinho (40.9528, -8.1758). 2.5 hrs, 40.9929, -8.2114 1hD6n 3 GARGANTA DO PAIVA Alvarenga granite narrows the river course, and water comes rushing and tumbling out of this tightest section of the Paiva known as the river’s throat. Great for canyoning and whitewater rafting in the rapids of the Aguieira waterfall upstream. Call Clube do

Paiva +351 964 018 656. Follow the Paiva walkway from Areinho for ,, 3km (see 2). Clubedopaiva.com 45 mins, 40.9648, -8.1793 hz 4 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO VAU A deep, green swimming spot in the Paiva. Nearby, the Fontão stream tumbles down into the Paiva. From Canelas follow the signs for Praia ,, Fluvial and park. Or walk from Espiunca along the Paiva walkway for 2.5km 45 mins, 40.9764, -8.1892 h1

Park in Janarde and follow signs down to ,, the river bank. 5 mins, 40.9273, -8.1481 1h

wild waterfalls 7 POÇO DA SILHA An unexpected turquoise bathing pool beneath a waterfall in the magical woodland that surrounds Manhouce. Park by the bridge in Manhouce and follow ,, the brown sign down a steep descent to the river pools. 5 mins, 40.8259, -8.2159 v=T1

5 PRAIA FLUVIAL DA PARADINHA A small village with a river beach. Visit in late August for ‘Sons de Água’: listen to music played on the river and try the delicious regional cuisine. From Alvarenga take the R326-1 towards ,, Arouca and after 10km at a T junction take a sharp L down the narrow road to Paradinha. 2 mins, 40.9347, -8.1740 1hq

8 POÇO NEGRO Further down from Poço da Silha is this deep, green diving pool carved by cascades of the River Teixeira. From the village of Sernadinha follow ‘Poço ,, Negro’ signs for 1km down dirt track. Park by Carregal Dam and walk down. 5 mins, 40.8159, -8.2278 v=1T

6 PRAIA FLUVIAL DE JANARDE Along this stretch of the Paiva, look out for evidence of an open-air alluvial goldmine probably started in Roman times.

9 CASCATA DA MIZARELA Tumbling and roaring down 75m, this is the highest waterfall in Portugal and not exactly one you can go swimming underneath. There

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XX 11 is a miradouro viewing point, however, by the roadside and it’s a sublime view across Serra da Freita. From Merujal take the M621 for 2.5km; the ,, miradouro is on your R. 1 min, 40.8638, -8.2857 Th

ancient & holy 10 DÓLMEN DE PORTELA DE ANTA A megalithic dolmen formed of nine lichencovered stones and surrounded by tumuli in the Serra da Freita mountains.

Arouca & Alvarenga

From Mizarela continue along the road to ,, Gestoso. After 4km you will see a brown sign; turn L. After 500m, park and walk R uphill. 3 mins, 40.8600, -8.2595 Qh

then L at T junction. 2 mins, 41.0086, -8.0852 8h6z

11 IGREJA SÃO MACÁRIO No one knows exactly when the first settlers arrived here. Legend has it that the hermit St Macárius killed a giant serpent living in a deep pit and terrorising the people. In his honour they built a chapel by his cave. He must have seen the serpent from miles away as the views are incredible. The chapel looks out to six of its ‘brother’ chapels on the distant hills. From Sul, along the M559, take the CM1216 ,, N for 8km & follow brown signs for S. Macário for 1km uphill. 1 min, 40.8764, -8.0616 8h6

13 LIVRARIA DO PAIVA Walk up the Mourinha stream to see what locals refer to as the ‘Paiva Library’. Quartzite layers of rock, with Arenigian fossils, resemble giant books stacked into the mountainside. Along the Paiva walkway (see 2), W of ,, Janarde, follow the Mourinha stream up from its confluence with the Paiva. 45 mins, 40.9202, -8.1562 hzn

12 CAPELA DE SÃO PEDRO Make a pilgrimage to this mystical chapel in the mountains. On June 29th there is a festa here for São Pedro, St Peter. You can see how popular it is as they have built an altar outside, looking over the mountains. There are several picnic tables near this 16th century church with incredible views. From Noninha drive 3km towards Casais, ,,

cosmic rocks

14 PEDRAS PARIDEIRAS A rare phenomenon of erosion and weathering created the granite nodules that ‘pop’ out, earning them the epithet ‘birthing stones’. Clamber up the stony ground, like hardened lava on the mountain, and feel the deep grooves from birthed stones. From Arouca take the M511 S and pass ,, signs for Albergaria da Serra and Mizarela, onto M621. R at brown sign for Castanheira. Parking. 3 mins, 40.8505, -8.2829 hnzW

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magic mountains 15 PORTAL DO INFERNO This road curves gently like the mountain’s spine while either side falls off to a steep drop. Breathtaking views but stick to the road on this aptly named Gateway to Hell. (Really: driving only) From Arouca, take the M510 to Vila Nova do ,, Pisco, then M567 S for 15km until it becomes Estr. do Portal do Inferno. 1 min, 40.8696, -8.1057 h 16 AVELOSO A beautiful viewpoint. In May this mountain is a thick carpet of deep purple heather and bright yellow gorse as far as the eye can see. From Alvarenga take the N225 S towards ,, Castro D’Aire; turn off L at Mosteiro and follow M550 before turning L again before Moimenta onto CM1032, to Aveloso. 5 mins, 40.9866, -8.0833 h6z 17 SÃO PEDRO VELHO Feel on top of the world at ‘St Peter of the Old Rock’. 1,077m above sea level, you can see the Estrela mountains to the south, Gerês mountains to the north, Marofa mountains to the east and the Atlantic to the west.

Drive NW from Albergaria da Serra to M511. ,, R, then R again at the dirt track. 2 mins, 40.8751, -8.2807 hzv6 18 PEDRAS BOROAS DO JUNQUEIRO A rocky outcrop in the Freita mountains crowned by two enormous granite boulders. Weathering and erosion has left them fretted with polygonal cracks, resembling the district’s broa bread. From Albergaria da Serra take the road SE, ,, first L, continue down for 500m then turn R onto cart track for 100m. 20 mins, 40.8672, -8.2612 h

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wild walks & picnics 19 MINAS DE REGOUFE Abandoned mines used for tungsten extraction in the Second World War. Now eerily silent, the ruins gaze blindly over the mountains. The signed and linear Aldeia Mágica PR walking route begins here at Regoufe and leads 4km to the abandoned village Drave, a tiny village with no roads. From Arouca take the M510 joining the M567 ,, towards Sul. After 15km follow signs to Regoufe. 5 mins, 40.8792, -8.1354 hze

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20 CAMINHOS DE MONTEMURO You can only comprehend the full beauty of the Serra de Montemuro once you have its earth under your feet. Follow this circular 20km PR1 route to see the mountain’s magic slowly. A day’s walking will take you over mountains via Roman roads, and you will pass menhirs, wolf traps, chapels and springs. Begin at the chapel of Nossa Sra. do Monte, ,, up the road from Vila Galega (on the N225, half way between Cabril and Alvarenga) and follow the yellow/red PR1 signs from here. After 1km there is a choice of 5 paths; continue straight on for the full circuit. 6 hrs, 40.9680, -8.1241 hzeQ

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21 DRAVE MOUNTAIN VILLAGE Without direct roads or electricity, the last inhabitant left this tiny mountain village with no roads in 2000. Walk here from Regoufe and discover a small river for paddling and old houses built from the traditional Lousinha stone. The signed and linear Aldeia Mágica PR ,, walking route begins at Regoufe and leads 4km to Drave. See Regoufe (19) 1 hr, 40.8615, -8.1171 ezh

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22 ROTA DO OURO NEGRO This 6km, signed and linear Black Gold trail, PR8, begins at the village of Fuste and winds its way past tungsten mines and the Pena Amarela stream to the village of Rio de Frades. These abandoned mines were a rich source of tungsten, known as Portugal’s ‘black gold’ during the Second World War. The trail begins at Chapel of Sta. Catarina, ,, Fuste, and continues through the hills to Rio de Frades (40.8762, -8.1914). 2 hrs, 40.8608, -8.3323 hze9

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23 PARQUE DE MERENDAS, PONTE DE MEITRIZ A schist village on the banks of the Paiva, with grassy banks and picnic tables. The Rota das Tormentas passes here which, despite the name, is a beautiful signed walk. Follow the route along the Paiva for 2km ,, until the next village, Janarde, 30 mins away, 2 mins, 40.9232, -8.1292 hz1qW

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regional dishes 24 CASA DOS BIFES CAETANO, ALVARENGA In the region that prides itself on its cattle, the vitela assada cooked here in a wood burning oven does not disappoint.

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Arouca & Alvarenga

Albisqueiros – Alvarenga, 4540 Arouca ,, +351 256 955 150, Casacaetano.com 40.9689, -8.1577 s 25 RESTAURANTE PAIVA À VISTA Close by the River Paiva, just a 2km walk from Areinho (see 1), this is an excellent place to try regional dishes cooked to perfection. Vilarinho – Canelas, 4540-257 Arouca ,, +351 256 044 583 40.9528, -8.1858 sYq 26 ADEGA TIPICA DA PENA A mountain retreat with stone walls, long wooden tables and hundreds of local wines and cheeses. The speciality here is cabrito assado no forno a lenha, roast goat from a wood oven. See 11 for directions and follow signs to. ,, Aldeia da Pena, 3660-097 S. Pedro do Sul 40.8778, -8.0787 sYeh 27 RESTAURANTE CASA NO CAMPO, ESPINHEIRO A warm and welcoming restaurant, one of a handful of schist houses, in this tiny mountain village. Hearty mountain food and regional dishes, an excellent place to try arouquesa beef. From Adaúfe, follow brown signs to ,, Espinheiro. Lugar de Espinheiro, 4540-431 Moldes, Arouca +351 256 941 900 40.8927, -8.2340 sYh

rustic havens 28 QUINTA DA VILA, ALVARENGA Throw open your bedroom windows to views of the Montemuro and Arouca Geopark mountains. An ancient vine grows by the traditional wine press house, and luxurious old stone bedrooms have deep window seats. Relax on the terrace looking out to the views or take a cool dip in the pool. The house has a rich rural history kept alive by the owner, Sr. Alfredo, and his love for the place. Lugar da Vila, 4540-053 Alvarenga ,, +351 918 528 478, Quintadavila.pt 40.9697, -8.1684 7gsYh6 29 QUINTA DO POMARINHO, AROUCA A restored 19th century farmhouse with views out over Arouca Geopark. Lugar de Romariz, Burgo 4540-222, Arouca ,, +351 256 948 198, Quintadopomarinho.com 40.9226, -8.2501 7gs

wilder camping & stars

30 QUINTA DAS UCHAS, MANHOUCE Old stone farmhouse with a spirit of hospitality as ancient as the Roman road on which their house is positioned. Biking, hiking, canyoning and horse riding on offer. 3660-136 Manhouce +351 932 049 093 ,, 40.8280, -8.2203 7gs

33 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO, MERUJAL A campsite in the heart of the Serra da Freita mountains, 1km from the River Caima. It’s on the M511 NW of Albergaria da Serra. ,, 4540-659 Merujal Arouca +351 256 947 723, Naturveredas.com 40.8734, -8.2912 h7sd

32 ILHA DOS AMORES Lovers’ Isle is where the Paiva meets the Douro river. Stir an amorous mood and watch dusk fall over the river with distant bells tolling into the twilight hills. A beautiful place to bivvy down and watch the stars Pinheiro twinkle. 31 CASA DO PINTO 28 Favões Rio de, Moinhos On the N222, head E from Castelo de , A beautiful 18th Capela century schist stonePortela house Sande Ariz Paiva, cross the Paiva and turn off L towards in a small village by Canelas. Cosy with six the Douro at Escamarão. Park at the end of bedrooms and a garden - perfect for families. Magrelos the road and follow dirt track out to shade of Penhalonga Eja Canelas de Cima, 4540-252 Canelas, ,, 5 mins. e Matos Torrão trees. Alpendorada Arouca +351 256 949 455, Casadopinto.com Espadanedo 41.0692, -8.2595 *h1 Canelas XX 32 Várzea do Douro 40.9676, -8.2072 hsg Melres Souselo

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Rio Mau Sebolido

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viseu & douro Our perfect weekend ,,Listen to the honey bees humming through the golden hour at São João de Tarouca ,,Spy wild deer in the Serra das Meadas woodland ,,Drink dark Douro wine and feast at Restaurante Novo, Lamego ,,Lean into the wind at Serra do Caramulo and breathe in the endless views ,,Taste the warm honey of the Caramulo beekeepers ,,Stargaze from the megalithic dolmen, Lapa da Meruje ,,Picnic under the shady trees on the banks of the Douro river ,,Jump into the cool water at Ucanha’s woodland river beach ,,Strike out down Roman pathways past great mossy stones and fresh springs ,,Dive into crystal waters at Poço Azul and dryoff on sun-warmed stone

The green, tiered hills of Viseu district slope into the south banks of the Douro river as it snakes its way, in solid curves, from east to west. The Douro has a deep connection with wine production: the river itself was used to transport the much-loved Port wine from these hills surrounding the towns of Lamego, Cinfães and Resende, to the city of Porto at the river mouth. The tributary rivers of Corgo, Tua, Varosa and Tavora define this district and encircle the heart of this Douro wine-growing region. They also branch out south, tumbling through the Castro D’Aire hills, enriching its soil and providing enchanting spots for a wild swim.

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The Douro soils produce gloriously dark wines, but they also yield an abundant crop of cherries and elderberries in May. Later in the year there are harvests of dill, figs, rosemary and mushrooms. Visit the cherry festival in Resende for music, fire displays, dancing and, of course, hundreds of cherry-based cakes, sweets and wines. Just south of Lamego is São João de Tarouca, a 12th century Cistercian monastery that has wild nature creeping into every work of art. They say the monastery had its genesis when a lightning bolt struck and marked out the foundations. This bolt is painted in now, cleaving the ceiling in two. Wander through its ruins and the herb garden: a riot of scents as lavender, thyme, mint, sage and camomile create a sanctuary for honey bees.

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The broad stones of the toll bridge at Ucanha once paved the way for a busy medieval trade route, and you can see masons’ signatures etched into the stones. Ucanha was the birthplace of Jose Leite de Vasconcelos (1858-1941) a theologian, ethnographer, poet and philosopher fascinated by Portugal’s customs, ancient history and folklore. The toll tower has a quirky museum to his life and work; you can ask for the key at the fruit store. Further along the River Varosa is a deep green fluvial beach and a rope swing. The river runs on into magical woodland with ancient trees and moss-covered rocks.

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river swims 1 PRAIA FLUVIAL, UCANHA In spring, poppies and wild flowers cover the grass edging this river. Make a rope swing entry over the deep shingle-bottomed pool. Cool water escapes over the dam into luminous woodland. From Ucanha follow the road down to the ,, bridge that crosses the Varosa river. Park before the bridge. 1 min, 41.0469, -7.7488 =T135 2 PRAIA FLUVIAL, PARAÍSO A pretty river beach with grassy banks under an arched medieval bridge. Just off the N230 signed out of São João ,, do Monte. 2 mins, 40.5969, -8.2368 1W 3 PRAIA FLUVIAL, BESTANÇA Waterfalls tumble over smoothed stones to form this natural pool. From Cinfães follow the N222 E towards ,, Oliveira do Douro. Don’t cross the Bestança river but keep on in the direction of Pias and park. 1 min, 41.0747, -8.0718 1Tq

4 PRAIA FLUVIAL, MONDIM DA BEIRA Stone steps and ladders ramble down from the old bridge to the water’s edge. There is a perfect seat carved into a tree and a children’s bathing pool filled by river water. Old women chat on the bridge. From Lamego take the N226 towards ,, Tarouca, cross the River Varosa and turn R to Mondim da Beira. Follow signs to Praia Fluvial and park by bridge. 2 mins, 41.0143, -7.7503 q13s 5 PARQUE FLUVIAL, PORTO DE REI Streams wind down through shaded woods and grassy picnic areas to join the Douro. Moored along the wide river are typical rabelas, cargo boats of the Douro. Take a dip in the river and gaze up at the rising Douro hills either side. From Resende take the N222 E towards ,, São Martinho. Turn L at signs for Porto de Rei and continue for 4km. 10 mins, 41.1183, -7.9128 W1q 6 PONTE DE LAGARIÇA This simple arched Roman bridge is mirrored by the Cabrum river flowing under. It is a favourite swim spot for locals in summer, with grassy banks.

From Resende take the N222 W for a few ,, minutes; at the church turn L up the M554-1 following signs to Anreade. Follow M554-1 for approx 15 mins until you see signs R to the Praia Fluvial. 1 min, 41.0637, -8.0082 1W 7 POÇO AZUL, SANTA CRUZ DA TRAPA Lie across sun-warmed granite boulders smoothed by this waterfall at Poço Azul. The plunging waters create a stone basin filled with a deep, azure bath. From Santa Cruz da Trapa take the N227 ,, towards Granja, and after 2 km follow brown signs for Poço Azul on your R. Park at the water tank (40.7799, -8.1617) and follow the signs downhill. 10 mins, 40.7808, -8.1650 TW1=zh

ancient & holy 8 DÓLMEN DA LAPA DE MERUJE A megalithic sacred site in the Caramulo mountains. A still and bewildering place for stargazing. Park in Carvalhal de Vermilhas and follow ,, signs. 40 mins, 40.6412, -8.1392 zhQ86*

XX 9 9 SÃO JOÃO DE TAROUCA A church with nature at its heart and creeping up the columns. The holy place has been kept through the generations by folk who tended the land and monks who studied medicinal herbs. A rich and varied herb garden survives within the ruins. From Lamego follow the N226 S and continue ,, through Mondim da Beira on the N329. Turn off at signs to the Mosteiro. Parking. 1 min, 40.9944, -7.7463 “e8 10 UCANHA A sleepy-dog village, but the fortified bridge with its grooves worn by centuries of cart travel testifies to a more dramatic past. It was once a toll bridge and the only entrance to Mosteiro de Salzedas’ lands. The tower has great views and there’s a museum to the polymath José Leite de Vasconcelos, born here. Ask for the key from the fruit and veg shop to the right. From Lamego head S on the N226 towards ,, Tarouca. At the turning for Tarouca continue on the N226, crossing the river and turn L following signs for Ucanha. Park at the top once you are off the main road and walk down into town. 5 mins, 41.0481, -7.7464 es17

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11 CAPELA, SÃO PEDRO DO SUL Reassembled from Roman ruins in the 12th century stands this small church. Built in honour of Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, to commemorate his prolonged sojourn by the healing waters here. No doubt after winning independence from Galicia and fighting the Moors, he was in need of some recuperation. Look for the mossy, strangely shaped foundation stone in the back wall, ‘borrowed’ from the Roman ruins nearby. In Jardim de Termas, on N bank of the Vouga. ,, 5 mins, 40.7400, -8.0935 e8

wild walks 12 TRILHO DA PENOITA Beginning at the Penoita picnic park, this signed, circular 13km route PR4, takes you along shepherd tracks, past traditional villages and the Dólmen da Malhada do Cambarinho, an ancient megalithic monument built close by the source of the Alfusqueiro river. It’s known locally as Casa da Orca, which mysteriously translates as ‘house of the killer whale’. From Ventosa, go S on M622. Cross under ,, A25 and under IP5, then another 1km to the picnic park. 4 hrs, 40.6934, -8.1221 zh8Q

XX 14 13 ROTA DOS CALEIROS (‘OLD GUTTERS’ WALKING ROUTE) Beginning at the foot of Caramulinho, this 8km circular walk winds up and down between hills of 850m and 1,000m above sea level. Roman paths and ancient boulders intersect your route. Signposted. See Caramulinho (16) for directions. ,, 2 hrs, 40.5482, -8.2027 zQ 14 TRILHO DA SERRA DO CARAMULO This linear 16km walking trail, PR3, reaches a peak at 1,043m above sea level on Ventoso, the Windy mountain, from where you can see the distant Serra da Estrela mountain range. It also passes the Lapa da Meruje dolmen. It ends at the River Alcofra and its medieval tower. Begins in Fornelo do Monte / ends at Alcofra ,, (40.6313, -8.1941). Go N from Caparossa on N228 for 1km, then L, signed to Fornelo. 5 hrs, 40.6427, -8.1016 zhQ6

magic mountains 15 SERRA DO CARAMULO Famous for its springs and sweet water, this mountain range combines great boulders, waterfalls and wooded dells. Fill your lungs as the wind pummels over the peaks of Caramulo.

From Agueda take the N230 E for 40km. ,, 2 mins, 40.5873, -8.1655 zh6 16 CARAMULINHO The highest point of the Caramulo mountain range at 1,075m. Windy, wonderful views from this summit. From Caramulo take the N230-3 W for 5km, ,, passing Cadraço. Accessible from the road, there are 284 stone steps leading to the top. 2 mins, 40.5485, -8.2018 h6z

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17 CAMBARINHO BOTANICAL RESERVE The densest and highest quantity of oleanders in the country to be found here. In May the mountains blossom into a riot of purples. Once in Cambarinho follow signs for the ,, Reserva Botânica. Walk the last stretch. 10 mins, 40.6725, -8.2021 5z 18 PARQUE BIOLÓGICO DA SERRA DA MEADA A family-friendly park with native animals, such as the fox, boar, pigs, ponies and even turtles, bred and protected here. Trail routes through woodland. Look out for wild deer.

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From Lamego follow the road north though ,, Aldeia de São João. Follow signs for the Parque Biológico. 30 mins, 41.1042, -7.8409 hz4Dsq

local food & festas 19 FESTA DO MEL, CARAMULO The last weekend of August brings together beekeepers for the Caramulo Mountain’s Honey Festival. Crafts, music, wines and honey, all a product of the region’s flora. Jardim do Santa Margarida, Caramulo ,, 40.5719, -8.1706 sYgq

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20 BEEKEEPERS IN CARAMULO A friendly village association of beekeepers or apicultores who exhibit and sell their honey products here. If you are lucky, the lady in the café behind will have made her honey cake bolo de mel. Rua do Chafariz 138, 3475-031 Caramulo ,, +351 232 861 496 40.5717, -8.1706 sY

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21 O TASQUINHA DO MATIAS, UCANHA Regional snacks and traditional dishes served on a veranda next to Ucanha’s Roman bridge. Lugar da Ponte, Ucanha, 3610-033 Tarouca ,, +351 254 678 241 41.0484, -7.7477 sYe 22 RESTAURANTE PÓVOA DÃO, SILGUEIROS A restaurant on the banks of the River Dão, with granite stone walls and wooden furnishing. A homely, rustic atmosphere with a great selection of Dão wines. High quality regional dishes with produce from the nearby organic farm. Generous desserts. Póvoa Dão-Silgueiros, 3500-546 Viseu ,, +351 232 958 557 40.5493, -7.9435 sYge

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23 PADARIA, MOSTEIRO DE SALZEDAS This bakery by the village square’s drinking fountain has an ancient bread oven, recently restored. Try the savoury breads and cakes baked with traditional centuries-old methods. At Salzedas, park near the monastery and ,, walk into the square. 5 mins, 41.0547, -7.7246 s8

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24 RESENDE CHERRY FESTIVAL Crafts, street shows, folklore and dancing all celebrate the cherry harvest – plenty of delicious cherry treats and Douro wines to try. Last weekend of May in Resende. ,, 41.1089, -7.9633 sYg7

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25 RESTAURANTE NOVO, LAMEGO This tiny family-run restaurant shares its forecourt with Lamego’s Sé, a towering Gothic cathedral, rising incongruously opposite. This is an excellent place to try regional variations on feijoada and cabritinho assado, goat stew dishes. Largo da Sé, 5100-098 Lamego ,, +351 254 613 166, Restaurantenovo.com 41.0966, -7.8070 sgY 26 MURGANHEIRA WINE, UCANHA Douro region wine is a country to explore in itself. There are the famous dark, bloodred wines from the region such as Porca de Murça. But the wine from Murganheira is light and sparkling. Taste it, and visit their cellars carved into stone below the winery. Abadia Velha, 3610-175 Ucanha ,, +351 254 670 185, Murganheira.com 41.0459, -7.7448 Ye

rustic retreats 27 CASA CAMPO DAS BIZARRAS, FAREJA Located in the foothills of Serra de Montemuro, it’s unknown exactly when this rural cottage was built. Its stone walls, open fireplaces and low beams give it an ancient rustic feel and make it the perfect place to cosy-up after mountain walks. 10 bedrooms. Rua Capela 20, Fareja, 3600-271 Castro Daire ,, +351 232 386 107, Campodasbizarras.com 40.9052, -7.9140 ge 28 ALDEIA DO CODEÇAL, GOSENDE A number of renovated but traditional stone houses in an aldeia where goats are still herded through the streets at dusk. Relax with a book to the clattering of hooves on cobbles outside. Lugar do Codeçal – Gosende, 3600,, 474 Castro Daire +351 917 632 723, Aldeiadocodecal.com 41.0054, -7.9122 sYheg 29 QUINTA CHAVE GRANDE PARQUE DE CAMPISMO Ten acres of sunny green terraced slopes overgrown with grapes, figs, mimosa, chestnut, hazelnut and fruit trees. They have a pool and will organise hiking trips and Douro tours. Rua do Barreiro 462, Casfreires, Ferreira ,, d’ Aves, 3560-043 Satão +351 232 665 552, Chavegrande.com 40.8229, -7.6947 sghd

30 CASA DOS MOINHOS DO CHÃO DO R. do Chão do Mosteiro 1, 3660-459 São ,, MOSTEIRO, SÃO PEDRO DO SUL Pedro do Sul +351 965 808 049, Casa-dos-moinhos.com An old but renovated mill house with four 17 Tabuado rooms for a Galegos secludedRans break in the Estrela 40.7576, -8.0604 Cova Recarei Tuias 35gsYe Abragão Soalhães valley. The waters ofOldrões the Zêzere flow past Avessadas Gestaçô Campelo Sobreira Devesaperfect for gently, a dip. Valpedre 42 37 41 8 Boelhe Vila Boa do Bispo Aguiar de Sousa Paredes Santa Marinha do Zêzere Penajoia Gove Lagares Cambres p87 p69 Favões 28 Santa Cruz do Douro Portela Capela Sande Ariz 34 33 elo 5 Ancede Penhalonga Eja 24 Almacave 25 36 Canelas Espadanedo 18 Melres Medas Cinfães Oliveira do Douro 32 Souselo Tarouquela 25 Sé 3 Rio Mau Fornos Penude Santiago de Piães 6 Lomba Raiva Bairros Sobrado edo

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serra da estrela & guarda Our perfect weekend ,,Hike along Serra da Estrela’s valleys scoured by ice-bellied glaciers 20,000 years ago ,,Swim in the natural lakes formed beneath the Cântaros mountains ,,Stargaze from the summit of Torre, at 1,993m ,,Bathe in the mystical waters of Covão d’Ametade, thought to hold the wrecks of ancient galleons ,,Ski down the snowy mountains of Serra da Estrela in winter ,,Creep inside the Orca dolmen’s megalithic burial chambers ,,Spy out eagles’ nests and ancient rock engravings at Faia Brava ,,Stroke the thick, dusty hair of the lanudos donkeys at Castelo Rodrigo ,,Fall asleep to the whispering waters of the Zêzere river

The Serra da Estrela in central Portugal is the mainland’s highest mountain range. Estrela means ‘stars’ and, at 1,993m above sea level, these snow-capped peaks almost touch them. The Serra is comprised of bizarrely shaped crags and boulders, glacial gorges, cromlechs, lakes, rivers and magnificent views. The mountains were first sculpted over 20,000 years ago by the gradual movement of melting ice sheets. You can walk the Zêzere, Alforda, Loriga, Covão Grande and Covão do Urso valleys, all bearing visible glacial scars down their rocky sides. In winter, snow transforms the range into a popular ski destination.

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These dramatic mountains are personified by its adoptive heroes. Viriato, shepherd-warrior and chief of the last Lusitanian tribe resistant to Roman rule, and João Brandão, the Portuguese Robin Hood, were both defenders of these mountains; they came to symbolise the mountain-dwellers’ defiant identity. Shepherds still roam these hills, accompanied by Serra da Estrela dogs with their distinctive golden pelt and protective nature. Emblems of protection are scattered throughout the mountains, from megaliths discovered in the Mondego river basin, to a 7m Madonna reached from steps carved into the hillside rock.

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Despite being inland, Serra da Estrela has many weird and wonderful connections with the sea. It’s easy to believe in these mysterious tales: certainly the silent and silver lagoons at Covão d’ Ametade are a perfect setting for the Spaniard Juan Caramuel y Lobkowitz’s colourful imaginings in 1639: “Of these [mountains] the most notable is called Estrela, because it was close to the stars. It is guarded by a lake and the darkness of the woods. Its water, which is sweet, flows into the Ocean, even though it is twenty leagues away... The storms which torment the seas stir up the waves on the lake very often producing the wreckage of boats, hurled from underground caves to the amazement of local inhabitants.” Estrela even appears in Herman Melville’s Moby Dick as “inland Strello Mountain”, near whose summit “was said to be a lake in which the wrecks of ships floated to the surface”.

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Finally, Estrela cheese is said to be the best in the world. Made with sheep’s milk and salt, it follows a 2,000-year-old recipe using cardoon thistle as coagulant. This is a gooey cheese inside a thick rind; eating it with local bread and red wine is a great meal. 106

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wild swims 1 PRAIA FLUVIAL, SANDOMIL Shallow water runs over pebbles at this wide, calm stretch of the River Alba by the small town of Sandomil. There is a wooden walkway to a shady café and children jump from the riverside where water momentarily deepens. Old arched stone bridge. From Oliveira do Hospital take N230 S, and ,, at the junction with N17 turn L and shortly follow signs to M506. Continue on M514 to Sandomil. 1 min, 40.3565, -7.7804 1qsW 2 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO SABUGUEIRO Just outside this small village where in the evening goat herders make their way down cobbled streets. A shallow swim and shingle bottom in the valley with large rocks and grassy banks. From Seia take N339 into Sabugueiro. ,, Follow the signed track down from the bridge to the fluvial beach. 5 mins, 40.4005, -7.6405 1qs 3 BARRAGEM VALE DO ROSSIM Great expanse of water and, even if there are one or two other people, it’s always

easy to find your own quiet corner. Scraggy olive trees run down to the stony beach. Water is deep and calmly reflects the great mountains all around. From Sabugueiro take CM1125 towards ,, Gouveia or Manteigas. After 4km turn R onto N232. After another 3km turn R down Rua Fonte do Serro. 10 mins, 40.4034, -7.5858 1W

sacred rivers 4 POÇO DO INFERNO Known as Hell’s Well, this is a plunge pool at the foot of great stone boulders in the mountainside. A waterfall pours down 10m over a narrow gorge to the dark pool. A circular, signed 2.5km walking route, PR1, leads from the waterfall through woodland and along various other streams. Take the road from Caldas de Manteigas ,, towards Cova for 7km. Park on the roadside by signs. 1 min, 40.3737, -7.5175 =T1 5 COVÃO D’ AMETADE Ancient glacial lagoon. Nearby the Zêzere river, which snakes 214km to the sea, has its first spring at 1,900m above sea level.

Perhaps this is where Melville imagined his skeletal sea-wrecked vessels mysteriously surfacing. Just off N338, 11km S of Manteigas. Park ,, near the hairpin bend and follow brown signs up track to the lagoon. 10 mins, 40.3285, -7.5886 =Th6

ancient & sacred 6 ANTA DA PEDRA DA ORCA, RIO TORTO The Orca dolmen is a wonderfully complete prehistoric burial mound. It stands stolidly over views of the surrounding Mondego river basin. Some of the passageway lintels have their original cut-marks that show how their builders would have cut the stone. Just off N17 (a little over 2km SW of its ,, junction with N232), and signed from Rio Torto village. 5 mins, 40.5002, -7.6548 Q 7 CÂNTARO MAGRO Ice-bellied glaciers scoured the mountains into their great U-shaped valleys. Walk along the glacial routes today and marvel at the Cântaro Magro. At 1,928m above sea level it is one of the highest peaks of Serra da Estrela.

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XX 12 9 CASTELO DE VILA DO TOURO Several medieval defensive castles line the Côa valley as this river once defined the frontier with Spain. The castles of Alfaiates, Sabugal, Sortelha, Vila do Touro and Vilar Maior are some examples, but the ruins of Vila do Touro are the wildest. This castle, given over to the Knights Templar in 1215, rises up over the village and commands strategic views of the Côa but has fallen into haunting ruins. From Vila do Touro, walk up the hill for 200m. ,, 10 mins, 40.4182, -7.1060 h6*7

XX 11 You can walk to a view of this peak from ,, Covão d’ Ametade (see 5) at (40.3280, -7.5873). 5 mins, 40.3283, -7.5986 zhw 8 NASCENTE DO RIO CÔA You can go to the source of the River Côa in Fóios, Serra das Mesas, and see this diluvial giant as a thin spring from the rocks. Amazing views out across the mountains. From Fóios, cross the river and take Rua da ,, Alcaia for 4km. At the T-junction turn R and follow signs. 5 mins, 40.2762, -6.8651 Wh

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nature & wildlife 10 LANUDOS DONKEYS The outskirts of the medieval town Castelo Rodrigo, with meadows, vineyards and oak woods, are home to over 40 Mirandese donkeys. Sr Antonio looks after these endangered donkeys, which he calls burros lanudos because of their incredibly long woolly coats. You can visit the donkeys or call ahead to arrange a ride for small children. R. da Cadeia 7, 6440-031 Castelo Rodrigo ,, +351 964 070 183 info@casadacisterna.com 1 min, 40.8762, -6.9647 qWg

11 FAIA BRAVA, CÔA VALLEY This is a rich wilderness, devoted solely to the conservation of its wildlife. Wild Sorraia horses, deer and cattle make it their home while eagles, vultures and black storks nest on the rugged crags. There are several trails where you can discover prehistoric rock engravings, the Côa and eagles’ nesting sites. Organised guided tours or 2-day treks with ,, overnight stargazing options. Atnatureza.org. The S entrance is on M607 before it crosses the Côa river from Vale de Afonsinho. 1 day, 40.9053, -7.0960 h*Dz4

sunset hilltops 12 SENHORA DA BOA ESTRELA Follow stone steps up to the 7m Madonna carved into the rock face of the Estrela mountains. She looks out at geological rock formations known as queijeira (they resemble towering slabs of cheese). Along N339, 19km N of Covilhã. ,, 3 mins, 40.3232, -7.6022 6h8 13 TORRE DA ESTRELA The highest peak of the mountain range and mainland Portugal, 1,993m above sea level. In the early 19th century Dom João VI

XX 16 built a tower here to take it up to 2,000m. Sadly, a tarmac road leads to this summit, but the views over the glacial valleys are magnificent, especially when snow-capped. Take N338 S from Manteigas and follow ,, signs for Torre. 5 mins, 40.3218, -7.6130 6h*

until today, when it’s occupied mostly by paragliders. Call Paul at Clube Vertical for a First Flight experience in tandem or for those more practiced, head to Manteigas. Largo da Reboleira-Sameiro, 6260-311 ,, Manteigas +351 967 467 746, Clubevertical.org 2 hrs, 40.4123, -7.4688 h

14 CABEÇA DA VELHA So called by locals, as a distinct face in the rock resembles an old woman’s head. Hidden within the protected woodland of ‘Mata do Desterro’ this Cabeça da Velha looks out over the lands below. The woodland is rich in wildlife, cobras and frogs, as well as flora. There is also a path here to the linear, signed route PR1 which follows the River Alva for 2km. From Seia take N231 S. After 3rd ,, roundabout turn L onto EM513. Follow for 2km until you see the brown sign up hill. 10 mins, 40.3982, -7.6989 hz*D4

16 GLACIAL VALLEY TRAIL This 17km linear walk, PR6, will take you along one of the most thrilling valleys scoured by glacial movement some 20,000 years ago. Boulders rolled a millennium ago are scattered over the steep valley. The walk takes you from Manteigas, past chapels and mossy banks at Covão d’ Ametade up to the great views of Senhora da Boa Estrela. To begin the walk at Manteigas follow signs ,, from Igreja São Pedro. To begin at Torre, follow signs from 40.3218, -7.6129. 4.5 hrs, 40.4003, -7.5395 h*6nz

striding & gliding 15 LINHARES DA BEIRA PARAGLIDING The strategic position of Linhares da Beira, with views over the entire region, has meant that it has been occupied since Lusitanian times, under Roman, then Moorish, control

17 ROTA DO MACIÇO WALKING TRAIL This 10km signed, circular walking trail, PR5, takes you past the glacial Candeeira valley and the lakes, Lagoa dos Cântaros, Lagoa da Paixão and Salgadeiras, glassily reflecting the mountains. Take care to bring a map and possibly a GPS device with you due to the

XX 14 nature of this wild and demanding walk. Begin at Torre (13). Manteigastrilhosverdes.com ,, 2.5 hrs, 40.3280, -7.6066 zh*nv 18 ESTÂNCIA DE SKI Dozens of lanes to choose from, beginners lessons and various ski/accommodation packages on offer, this is Serra da Estrela’s skiers’ paradise. Estrada Nacional 339, Apartado 332, ,, 6200-073 Covilhã +351 275 314 727, Skiserradaestrela.com 2 mins, 40.3314, -7.6169 hgsK

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festas & picnics 19 SIEGE OF ALMEIDA Every year history repeats itself with this re-enactment of the French siege of Almeida castle during the Napoleonic wars. Sit atop the castle bulwarks and watch the explosions, battle and applause. Late August. Almeida ,, 40.7271, -6.9041 qe

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20 CAPELA DA NOSSA SENHORA DO ESPINHEIRO This roadside chapel has large stone picnic tables with magnificent views across Manteigas and Gouveia. From Seia take N339 E for 6km. Parking. ,, 40.4131, -7.6726 W

breads & cheeses 21 MANTEIGAS VILLAGE To visit a town whose name actually translates as ‘butters’ and not to try the local dairy products would be a crime. The cheese here is famous for its wonderful gooey quality, made from goats’ and sheep milk, and pours out once the hard rind is sliced. Manteigas ,, 40.4048, -7.5377 s

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22 BREAD MUSEU DO PÃO, SEIA Take a short spin through the history of bread at this museum dedicated to the loaf. You can see old regional machinery, a gallery of bread-inspired art, sacred objects and ceramics, even a reconstruction of an old Portuguese bakery. Try the different breads and grains and visit the restaurant with various dishes based on – naturally – bread. Rua de Santa Ana, Quinta Fonte do ,, Marrão, 6270-909 Seia +351 238 310 760, Museudopao.pt 40.4177, -7.6946 sqe

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23 RESTAURANTE O JÚLIO, GOUVEIA A Michelin starred restaurant with stone walls and simple decor. Try arroz de carqueja com entrecosto, grilled ribs with rice and gorse flowers. Or try their cabrito com míscaros (goat with mushrooms) and their very own batatinhas do céu (potatoes from heaven). Rua do Loureiro 11-A, 6290-534 Gouveia ,, +351 238 083 617, restauranteojulio@ hotmail.com 40.4938, -7.5929 sY

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24 RESTAURANTE TRUTALCÔA Mountain trout are fished straight from the River Côa outside this schist-built restaurant with a terrace and river view. There are a couple of river tanks and a lake you can visit with a bar further down. Ponte de Rojões, 6320-242 Sabugal ,, +351 271 606 227 40.3097, -6.9697 sh 25 TABERNA DAS CALDAS, MANTEIGAS This is a good place to sample appetizersized regional dishes of Manteigas. Try the feijoca, a bean stew with pork chouriço, pigs’ ears and feet, or the enchidos smoked meats, and of course the local cheese. Caldas de Manteigas, 6260-012 Manteigas ,, +351 275 981 352 40.3878, -7.5452 sY 26 RESTAURANTE O LAGAR, ESCALHÃO Rustic decor, stone and wood, and in winter a strong smell of wood smoke from their fireplaces. They have a good selection of regional cheeses and smoked meats. Their cellars are well stocked with Douro wines. Rua do Lagar 1, Escalhão, 6440-072 ,, Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo +351 271 346 974 40.9448, -6.9277 sY

rural retreats 27 CHÃO DO RIO, TRAVANCINHA A group of comfortable thatched cottages in farmland surrounded by woods, wild flowers, mushrooms and the granite massifs of Serra da Estrela. This is a new-build, sustainable project – with a biological pool – that looks back to the old ways of Portuguese traditions. Fresh bread is delivered every day and local shepherds with their droves pass by regularly to graze. R. da Calçada Romana, Travancinha, ,, 6270-604 Centro Region +351 919 523 269, Chaodorio.pt 40.4188, -7.8230 esYg1 28 CASAS DO CRUZEIRO A number of small granite houses, typical of the Estrela mountains, are now guesthouses but are kept in rural Portuguese style. There are various houses from which to choose, all in the tiny village of Sabugueiro. Avenida da Igreja 5, 6270-151 Sabugueiro ,, +351 968 578 919, Casasdocruzeiro.pt 40.4021, -7.6412 sYge

29 CASA DA CISTERNA, FIGUEIRA DE 31 CASA DE NASCENTE, SAZES VELHO CASTELO RODRIGO A number of schist-built mountain houses All-stone luxury guest house with stunning in this village of 11 inhabitants. Views out views out from the centuries-old Castle across Serra da Estrela. Reap the harvest of Rodrigo walls. Ana and António, biologists grapes, nuts and cherry trees in the garden. from Lisbon, run the house with a quirky On the M514-1 SW of Sazes da Beira. Sazes ,, charm: the swimming pool is in fact the Velho 6270-351 Sazes da Beira, +351 238 old castle cistern which once served as the 951243, Casadanascente.com village water tank. A different rhythm of life. 40.3408, -7.7473 gsYe See 18also António’s donkey tours (see 10). Fornos 17 35,, R. da CadeiaGestaçô 7, 6440-031 Castelo Rodrigo 19 18 Campelo 32 SKIPARK Soalhães +351 271 313 515, Casadacisterna.com 27one of three schist cottages by the Stay 21 in Penajoia Gove Cambres 40.8763, -6.9647 g7 e River Zêzere as it curls around the foothills 3433Santa Cruz do Douro Ancede 5 of Serra da Estrela. Take a morning dip in 24 36 Almacave Armamar 18 a 25 Oliveira 30 CASA DA AMENDOEIRA, FIGUEIRA DE do Douro the crystal clear waters at the river beach or 25Sé Cinfães 3 CASTELO RODRIGO Penude follow one of the footpaths up into the hills. 6 This medieval guesthouse is set within the 6 da Reboleira Sameiro, 6260Largo Relva , , 23 views 10 ancient walls of Castelo Roderigo21 1with 26 311 Sameiro, Manteigas +351 275 980 090,14 eira 12 out towards the Côa valley and the Douro Skiparque.pt 4 Natural Park.28 Sleeps 12. 16 40.4107, -7.4692 1gsdz enga 9 R. do Relógio 2, 6440-031 Castelo Rodrigo Alvite Leomil ,, Moimenta da Beira +351 271 313 053, Casadaamendoeira.pt Mêda 40.8772, -6.9647 gsY Castro 27 Daire

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wilder camping 33 TOCA DA RAPOSA, MERUGE Friendly, cosy campsite in the foothills of Serra da Estrela. Enjoy the treehouse. their small pool and music in the bar with local musicians. Take M504-3 W of Meruge, and turn L on dirt ,, road at blue sign. 3405-351 Meruge, Oliveira do Hospital +351 238 601 547, Toca-da-raposa.com 40.4034, -7.8268 gsYqhd Torre de Moncorvo 34 STARCAMP Stargaze with a guide to the skies in the wild hills of the Faia Brava Nature Reserve. Bivvy down andVila listen out for the wildlife of the 19 Nova de Foz Côa mountains.12 Off M607 W of Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo, ,, before River Côa. Sítio da Milhoteira, Faia Brava Reserve 6440-251 Vale de Afonsinho, Guarda +351 961 336 043, Starcamp-portugal.com 40.9053, -7.0960 *hDd

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aveiro & rio vouga Our perfect weekend ,,Plunge under the sparkling waters of Cascata da Cabreia deep within sun-dappled woodland ,,Watch the hills turn purple at sunset from Castelium Marnelis ,,Crawl under the heavy stones of Pedra Moura megalithic dolmen ,,Picnic under pine trees by the babbling stream in Parque de Merendas da Alombada ,,Feast on the hearty regional dish of leitão, roasted suckling pig, in Mealhada ,,Discover wild ruins taken over by the forest at Minas do Braçal ,,Share the traditional broa loaf, spiced with cinnamon, from Piedade ,,Curl up in an ancient stone house overlooking the Vouga river at Couto de Baixo ,,Stargaze from the wild dunes at São Jacinto ,,Catch sight of the dusk swallows as they dip their flight to dart over the river Alfusquiero

Aveiro is a deeply rural district bordered by the sea to one side and the mountains of Serra da Freita, Arestal and Caramulo on the other. Ascending these slopes, the district below appears as a gentle sea of hills cloaked in pine trees, receding into a blue haze. Aveiro mainly comprises small arable farmlands, with rivers snaking through its forests and vineyards. Everywhere are ancient and sacred markings left by humans on the land, from dolmens with rich engravings, to Roman roads. The Ria de Aveiro is one of the oldest coastal lagoons in Europe and Flor de Sal, the region’s salt, is still collected here using ancient techniques. Its saltmarshes, cane thickets, tidal mud flats and multitudes of fish make it a haven for bird life. Look out for golden plover, egrets, little bitterns, purple herons and kingfishers.

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This district has also some of the purest rivers in Europe. Branching tributaries of cold water rush over gleaming ores and glinting river stones, feeding into the great River Vouga steering its course towards the sea. The Teixeira has some beautiful hidden swims under forest-filtered light. The wide blue Alfusqueiro, on the other hand, reflects the sky and, in the evening, flights of swallows come to dip and soar.

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Hidden in the forest of Silva Escura – Dark Thorns – is Cascata da Cabreia. Here the River Mau plunges 25m into a quartz-blue pool. Tumbledown mills with creeping ivy resemble witches’ houses. Follow the river through cork and oak woodland to Minas do Braçal where the water gushes out from the rocks so fresh it radiates iciness. Aveiro is as thronged with ancient ruins as it is fretted with rivers. The Roman road linking Braga to Lisbon surfaces time and again across this landscape with ancient bridges, cart-worn flagstones and hilltop forts. At Cabeço do Vouga, a small hill rising above the River Marnel, you can see the excavated foundations of several Iron Age houses occupied by the Roman army. This walled town, looking out over Aveiro, is thought to be the elusive Roman capital of Talábriga. Nearby the Roman road emerges outside the village of Talhadas, meaning ‘cut’ or ‘whittled’ rock. Disguised under bright green moss, the road here is revealed as heavy flagstones thrown wildly out of line by deep forest roots. On each stone are the curved tracks left by rumbling Roman wheels.

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hidden coast 1 DUNAS DE SÃO JACINTO These dunes protect the Ria de Aveiro lagoon from the Atlantic. The 960ha are bordered by maritime pine woods planted in the 19th century to prevent the sand from shifting. The beach is one long clear stretch of white sand. At its southern tip is a nature reserve, home to a huge array of wintering waterfowl. From Ovar take N327 S past Torreira and ,, turn off at any sign for the beach. For nature reserve continue S. Closed 12-1pm. 3800-901 São Jacinto, Aveiro Natural.pt 2 mins, 40.6708, -8.7430 D1qh 2 SÃO PEDRO DE PRAIA DE MACEDA A sandy beach, often empty, behind pine trees and dunes. It’s a scrabble down without steps to this beach. From Maceda follow brown signs along the ,, coastal road to the beach. Parking. 2 mins, 40.9207, -8.6622 h1o

river swims 3 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO RIO ALFUSQUEIRO Dense woodland fringes the banks of this river. Several smooth rocks rise up from this

river like whales. Perfect for sunbathing or a daring dive into the cool water. Arrive at midday to see it lit up aquamarine. The beach is where M574 (A-dos-Ferreiros ,, to Préstimo) crosses the river. 5 mins, 40.6253, -8.3615 1Th 4 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO SOUTO DO RIO A peaceful river spot for a picnic under shady trees. The River Alfusqueiro runs fast and shallow over pebbles then deepens for longer swims. There are a few rope bridges, tunnels and swings high up in the treetops. From Águeda take the N1 to Sardão, follow ,, signs to Borralha and keep close to river for 1km. 2 mins, 40.5608, -8.4253 1WqhT 5 RIO TEIXEIRA The River Teixeira is one of the cleanest rivers in Europe. At this point, just below the bridge, there is a poço, a well, carved by two millennia of water. Further down, the gleaming river snakes between mottled feldspar and granite worn to smooth pebbles. The river belly dips deeper again and a rope swing dangles over. From Couto de Cima take M569 N to Parada ,, and continue on the N227. Park in the lay-by just before the bridge. Follow the path down

some rocks, a steep scrabble. 2 mins, 40.7957, -8.2565 1h3 6 PRAIA FLUVIAL QUINTA DO BARCO A sandy, shaded river beach along the Vouga river. There is a café, and canoes for hire. From Pessegueiro do Vouga cross the ,, bridge and turn R; after 300m follow signs down to the Praia Fluvial. Parking. 2 mins, 40.7077, -8.3611 21s 7 PRAIA FLUVIAL CORTEZ This fluvial beach is formed by the widening bend of the Alfusqueiro river in the wooded valley between A-dos-Ferreiros and Préstimo. The clear, glassy river moves slowly over the shingle bottom and past its grassy banks. From Destriz, take CM1608 S and W, ,, following signs for Préstimo. About 2.5km after the Alfusqueiro bridge, double back R down a narrow road to the beach. 5 mins, 40.6500, -8.3008 1sh 8 PRAIA DO VAU, RIO TEIXEIRA A small river beach where the Teixeira widens at its bend. Deep, green water and grassy banks.

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12 XX Take the national road north from São João ,, da Serra, through Conlela and follow signs for the Praia Fluvial. Parking. 5 mins, 40.7805, -8.2664 W1q 9 PARQUE DE MERENDAS DA ALOMBADA A tiny shaded picnic park deep within pine and eucalyptus woods. The river sparkles by at paddling depth, sometimes deeper. From Beco follow signs to Alombada, head ,, stright through Chãs and continue through the hills until the road dips to the bridge. Turn L. 1 min, 40.6763, -8.4117 Whq

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10 SERNADA DO VOUGA The rising and waning of the Vouga is unpredictable due to new dam works but there is a nice fluvial beach just before the café here in Sernada. The river runs wide past picnic tables and a grassy camping space. Cross the bridge from Machinata do Vouga ,, and follow the dirt track down to the river before the café. 3 mins, 40.6707, -8.4535 W1h* 11 PRAIA FLUVIAL REDONDA A popular place for a swim but wilder, with still, clear waters further upstream. A

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shaded picnic area with tables, BBQs and a pebbly entrance to the water. From Águeda take the N230 E for 6km, ,, cross the river and bear R onto N336 for 3km until Redonda. Signs on R to Praia. 5 mins, 40.5472, -8.3821 W1q

secret waterfalls 12 CASCATA DA CABREIA Walk down secret steps into woodland thick with ivy, fern and moss. Old mill-houses by the waterfall have tumbled down and now resemble witches’ houses. The waterfall itself falls 25m into a blue quartz plunge pool with further streams cascading into the woodland. Sit at mossy picnic tables in this natural haven. From the village of Silva Escura follow the ,, brown sign for Cabreia. cross the stream and follow the cobbled road down. Parking. 5 mins, 40.7533, -8.3904 =T1Wqh3 13 CASCATA QUIAIOS A waterfall hidden behind intense lush vegetation and with thrillingly clear water cascading over limestone. A cool and refreshing dip. From Quiaios Social Club (40.2144, -8.8555) ,,

XX 14 take L fork down Largo São Sebastião and continue for 1km along the dirt track. 15 mins, 40.2096, -8.8639 =1Th3

ancient & sacred 14 PEDRA MOURA This Megalithic dolmen is more than 5,000 years old and is the most complete of its kind in the area. Part-buried in the earth of Serra do Arestal, you can enter the dolmen by a long corridor formed of 11 flat, granite slabs. It is on the 7km signed, circular PR8 walking route which begins in Couto de Cima. From Rocas do Vouga follow brown signs ,, for Anta. 1 min, 40.7799, -8.3098 Qh6 15 ‘CUT STONES’ OF TALHADAS Two huge stones, one either side of the road, stand upright as though they were cleaved clean in two. There are many legends. One tells how they were cut in two by the Thunder Child walking the Caminho de Santiago. Another is that they fell apart in the earthquake at the Crucifixion. Either way, they stand iconic of a region formed by water and stone. At the other entrance to Talhadas there is a further rock, said to have

once spouted miraculous water. Take the national road through Talhadas ,, and follow signs E towards Ereira. You will pass between the stones. 1 min, 40.6648, -8.3229 k 16 NECRÓPOLE MEGALÍTICA DO CHÃO REDONDO These megalithic funerary monuments, about 5,000 years old, are hidden at the end of a vineyard path, deep within the Talhadas hills and protected by an enclosure of pine trees. The first dolmen is still partly covered by its mound, or mamoa but the second dolmen, while it retains its mound, is open. The long entry corridor is filled with earth and allows entrance only on hands and knees. The megaliths are without a capstone but bear their lavish decoration and zigzagging designs, clear enough for fingertips to follow. From Talhadas take the road towards ,, Ereira, and after 1km turn R at brown sign for Necrópole Megalítica. Continue down the dirt track and park near the 2nd sign. Follow path. 5 mins, 40.6639, -8.3116 Q8h 17 VIA ROMANA, EREIRA This is a surviving section of the Roman road,

XX 16 built between the 2nd and 4th centuries, which connected the port of Olissipo, today Lisbon, with Braga. Wildly overgrown, at the end of a path-turned-stream, tree roots have shunted the flagstones out of place and the road resembles a surreal dream. If you visit in winter or spring, persevere to reach this road. An eerie spell surrounds these forgotten stones still deeply marked with Roman cart grooves. From Talhadas follow the road past Ereira ,, and turn R at brown sign for ‘Estrada Romana’. Park at the top and walk down the L fork. 10 mins, 40.6733, -8.2973 heQ

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XX 18 18 MATA NACIONAL DO BUÇACO A magical woodland planted by monks and meant to symbolise earthly paradise, it certainly comes close. Hidden trails, chapels, dense ferns and mossy oaks with twisting branches surround the 17th century palace and convent. Follow the Italian Via Sacra up the hills and into the ancient groves. Follow brown signs from Luso. ,, 2 hrs, 40.3772, -8.3637 e73q

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19 PONTE VELHA DO MARNEL Heavy flagstones and high sides fortify this old bridge. Running parallel to the national road emphasises its ancient stalwartness. Although referred to as ‘Ponte Romana’ by locals, the 14th century bridge was called ‘the new bridge’ by reference to the previous Roman bridge over the Marnel. This was once an important Roman road linking Lisbon with the northern city of Braga. From Águeda, take the IC2 N. 2.5km after ,, the Lamas do Vouga intersection, the bridge is on your R. Park in the lay-by and walk down. 1 min, 40.6327, -8.4693 We

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20 CASTELIUM MARNELIS Also known as Cabeço do Vouga, this small hill is thought to hold the remains of the elusive city Talábriga, Roman capital of this central region. It would have been a good location as it is situated on a wooded hill looking over the meeting place of the rivers Vouga and Marnel. Although excavations have been paused, the foundations and brickwork of ancient circular houses and paths can still be seen. From Lamas do Vouga follow brown signs to ,, Estação Arqueológico. Park at the stone cross and walk up the steps. 1 min, 40.6365, -8.4641 eh6Q 21 MINAS DO BRAÇAL The River Mau comes from deep in the mountains near these old lead mines, bursting out with thundering freshness so cool it radiates icy air. The Braçal mines, set deep in the woods, were abandoned in 1918 after nearly a century of lead extraction, but the mining dates back to Roman times. Now you can wander the 20th century ruins, take a dip under the waterfall and look out for greater horseshoe bats. From Sever do Vouga follow signs for ,, Senhorinha and then for Minas do Braçal.

XX 21 Follow dirt track for 2km; following red/yellow walking signs; park. Walk to the mines. 5 mins, 40.7338, -8.4005 he=

wild walks 22 BIORIA There are a number of cycling routes and walking paths in the country around Estarreja. The interpretation centre in Salreu has a birdwatching hide and cycles for hire. The Salreu Route begins here, a signed 7km circular trail passing the Aveiro Lagoon. Look out for lapwings, egrets and white storks. From Salreu follow signs to BioRia Percursos. ,, 2 hrs, 40.7321, -8.5676 Dhc 23 CABREIA – MINAS DO BRAÇAL TRILHO A circular walking path with choices of 3km, 6km or 10km. The trails link the Cabreia Waterfall with the cascade at Minas do Braçal and follow the River Mau through beautiful native woodland. Start at the Cabreia waterfall (see 12). ,, 1 hr, 40.7533, -8.3904 =3 24 TRILHO DA AGUALVA This 11km signed and circular walking route

takes you through forests, hillside villages and chapels. It’s all along old horse tracks and farming routes, crossing the Lordelo river (aka River Arões) at the swimming spot Poço do Pêgo Negro. A deep pool and waterfall sheltered by woodland. Look out for golden barbel fish and otters. Begin in Couto de Cima. Find an information ,, board by the stone pillory next to the church. 3 hrs, 40.7574, -8.3072 =1W

breads & cakes 25 LOJA DA MADALENA This little mercado sells its own signature bread. The traditional broa, a crusty bread made with cornmeal and rye flour, is here mixed with cinnamon. Unusually, for Portugal, this variation remains savoury. R. Principal 830, Piedade ,, 40.5574, -8.4888 s 26 PADARIA FLÔR DO VOUGA This bakery specialises in regional cakes, biscuits and baked savoury treats. As all the produce is made on site, it’s very reasonably priced. The cake to try is the broa de mel e canela. It’s a honey and cinnamon bread pudding with a twist.

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Rua Jardim 71, Sever do Vouga 3740-273 ,, +351 234 551 212 40.7343, -8.3694 sq

regional dishes 27 RESTAURANTE O COUCEIRO, TALHADAS This is the place to try local cuisine looking out over the Caramulo mountains. Cabrito e rojões, kid with firecracker potatoes, is delicious. Talhadas do Vouga, 3740-412 Talhadas, ,, +351 234 561 277 40.6635, -8.3276 esY

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fairs & festas & markets 28 IMAGINARIUS STREET FESTIVAL A wild street theatre and circus festival along the medieval streets. Art workshops and performances all day and late into the night. Try the town’s famous fogaça bread, a sweet loaf resembling the medieval castle. Mid/late May. Santa Maria da Feira ,, 40.9239, -8.5423 sgYeq

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29 VIAGEM MEDIEVAL For 12 days in late July-August the castle of Santa Maria da Feira retreats to life as it was in the 13th century and the reign of Afonso III. This is one of the biggest medieval fairs in Europe. Jugglers, falconry, jousts, gastronomy and encampments enliven the town. Santa Maria Feira ,, 40.9239, -8.5423 sYgeq

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30 MERCADO MUNICIPAL DE ÁGUEDA Every Saturday there is a lively market selling fresh fruit and veg, fish, smoked meats, and local cheese and breads. There are craft stalls and traditional kitchenware Rua Rio Grande, 3750-137 Águeda ,, +351 234 624 971 40.5722, -8.4425 sek 31 FEIRA DO MIRTILO This festival in late June celebrates the local blueberry harvest with all things blueberrythemed: cooking workshops, cakes, drinks, kids’ activities, music and dancing. Parque Urbano da Vila, 3740 Sever do ,, Vouga +351 912 010 596, Feiradomirtilo.pt 40.7340, -8.3697 sqgeY

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parks and picnics 32 QUINTA DO CASTELO Just outside the medieval town of Santa

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Maria da Feira there are a few shaded picnic tables hidden behind a fountain and halfway up the mossy steps to the 9th century castle. Park at the parish church (Igreja Matriz) and ,, follow brown signs up the hill; at the fountain follow the steps up. 5 mins. 40.9221, -8.5424 Wq 33 PATEIRA DE ESPINHEL A quiet park with picnic tables on the banks of Pateira de Fermentelos, the largest natural lake in the Iberian Peninsula. Two jetties lead out to stilt houses, perfect for a sunset over lapping waters. The circular, 10km signed trail PR1 begins here. From Piedade take the main road to ,, Espinhel and follow brown signs for Pateira. Parking. 5 mins. 40.5674, -8.5002 W1qD

rural retreats 34 VOUGALDEIAS, COUTO DE ESTEVES Set in an old hillside village, Vougaldeias offers several ancient renovated houses, each named after a different type of grain farmed here. The village festival in May is worth a trip. In the days before, sacks of gorse flowers are collected from the surrounding carpeted hills. At the party, streets are strewn with these giesta flowers. Lugar do Couto de Baixo, 3740-036 Couto ,, de Esteves, Sever do Vouga +351 966 313 040, Vougaldeias.com 40.7523, -8.3057 egh61 35 VALE DA SILVA VILLAS, AVEIRO Several guesthouses and a treehouse in beautiful rural farmland with shared pool and gardens. There is the Wooden House with bare rafters and hidden nooks, the Upper House and Granny House with hammocks and open fireplaces. There is also the treehouse, a fully equipped, novel and romantic getaway in the treetops. Vale da Silva, Loure, Albergaria-a-Velha ,, +351 916 045 055, Valedasilvavillas.com 40.6506, -8.5327 hqgc 36 BE & SEE IN NATURE, OVAR A one-bedroom house in the heart of the dazzling Aveiro coastal landscape. Adapted for birdwatching it has a viewpoint facing E and W in the attic. At night it becomes a bedroom with two drawer-style beds. There is a wood-burning stove and cycles. Be & See organises activities including vintage bike tours, gastronomy, night birdwatching, fishing with local fishermen and stargazing.

Rua de Enxemil, 3880 Ovar ,, +351 932 817 414, Beandseeinnature.pt 40.8457, -8.6302 gschD

wilder campsites 37 CAMPISMO DE QUIAIOS A beautiful camping site 500m from the beach with access to hiking and biking trails. You can relax here surrounded by the Quiaios dunes on one side and the Serra da Boa Viagem mountains on the other. Rua Parque de Campismo, Praia de Quiaios, ,,

3080-515 Figueira da Foz +351 233 910 499, Perafita Maia Alfena Lordelo Vilela Campismoquiaios.pt Custóias Sobrado 40.2210, -8.8846 qz2dg1 Paredes Matosinhos Aldoar Penafiel 26 Gandra Fânzeres 38 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO DE SÃO Ramalde Porto Campo JACINTO Bonfim The municipal camping site in the heart of 42 41 37 8 Avintes Jovim the Ria de Aveiro. The park faces the river Mafamude Foz do Sousa 28 and the sea beyond and is surrounded by salt Alpendo marshes and pine forests. Arcozelo Pedroso Olival 32 Estrada Nacional 327, 3800-901 São Serzedo ,, Grijó XX 38 Jacinto +351 234 331 220, Jf-saojacinto.pt Anta Canedo 40.6801, -8.7200 gsDd Fiães Lobão p87

São João de Ver

2 Ovar

Feira

28 32 Santa Maria da Feira 29

São João

Gafanha da Nazaré

p95

5 8

14 12 24 23 34 26 21 31 Sever do Vouga Albergaria-a-Velha 6

Cacia

Aveiro

33 9 10

Vale de Cambra 14

Estarreja Branca

1 38

São Roque

Válega

Murtosa

2 4 31 3 251 Arouca 5 29 1 27

Eixo

15 17 27 16 7 3

20 19

Ílhavo

33 Oiã 25

Águeda

8 2

30 11 4

p103

15 20

16 13

Oliveira do Bairro

Arcos

Mortágua

Mealhada

37 13

Coimbra

Coimbra 18 p131

41 19p131 28 34 45 11 42 31

2 32 12140

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coimbra & arganil Our perfect weekend ,,Wander through the sunlit cobbled streets of Aldeia das Dez ,,Explore the deep green forest enclosing the hidden Fraga da Pena waterfall ,,Shake with laughter in the river at Ponte das Três Entradas when little fish tickle your skin ,,Imagine life at the old farms at Aigra Velha as you pass its ancient wolf gates ,,Sip from thimble-sized cups of elderflower liquor in Piódão ,,Hike up to the Concha da Fajão shell mown into the Fajão hilltop ,,Catch rainbows in the spray from Pedra da Ferida waterfall ,,Watch swallows dart between the rocks at Cabril do Ceira ,,Bask in the golden hour at Lousã castle overlooking the valley forests ,,Run to the hills and stay in a traditional mountain house with incredible views in Pena

Time and the hour seem to have overlooked the district of Coimbra and its mountain villages built entirely from the area’s abundant slate. These villages lie scattered over the Serra do Açor mountains which, along with Serra da Estrela and Serra da Lousã, form part of Portugal’s central mountain range. In summer the stones cast a haven of cool shadows and in winter the rain glosses their stony greys and yellows. The Serra do Açor is best understood by its soaring namesake, the goshawk. Seen from above, the sweeping mountain range creates deep green folds of forest. It is a wooded region dense with pine trees. You can explore the district along hiking paths which connect the schist villages through some of the most beautiful native woodlands of Portugal.

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From the hilltop village of Piódão you can walk to the valley hamlet Foz de Égua where two streams meet. Low stone bridges arch over a refreshing pool. Piódão is emblematic of a bygone way of life. Other villages – Aigra Nova, Aigra Velha, Pena and Fajão – are less well-known, but would once have been buzzing hubs of agricultural endeavour, human and animal life. A hundred years ago, when farming roles were shared, the villages had communal bread ovens and shepherding duties operated on a rotary system. If harvest was a village effort then so was the party: during Aigra Nova’s chestnut festival masks would disguise the villagers, leaving them free to run wild, speaking their true thoughts in a topsy-turvy parade.

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There is a heady mix of seasonal produce to try here: local honey, bagaço (brandy), vinho morengueiro (strawberry wine), chestnuts, corn bread and smoked meats. Maranhos – goat tripe stuffed with rice, ham and goat meat stewed in wine – are delicious. These hearty victuals make a great picnic after a bracing river swim.

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Luckily, Arganil municipality is one of the most abundant places in Portugal for river swims. The Ceira and Alva rivers wind through, with countless fluvial beaches, grassy banks and shaded woodland areas. Deep in the ancient woodland of Mata da Margaraça is the Fraga da Pena waterfall. This plunges over mossy rocks into a sparkling pool. At Cabril do Ceira, the deep green river moves slowly through a stone gorge. Swim along this gorge to see swallows flit between their nests on either side of the rocks above. 124

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lakes & rivers 1 BARRAGEM SANTA LUZIA A great expanse of still, blue water surrounded by mountains and rich in birdlife. The rare wall-creeper bird has been sighted here in the dam wall. Take the N344 into Casal da Lapa (E of ,, Cabril) and park. Follow signs to Praia Fluvial. 10 mins, 40.0901, -7.8580 q1Dk 2 MOINHO DA PENA A secluded little dell perfect for a picnic. The river, at paddling depth, babbles under rock strata like layers of collapsed cake. From Serpins follow signs to Soutelo. Take the ,, N342-3 past Soutelo and through Albergaria, turn R at signs for Comareira, through Aigra Nova/Velha until Pena. Park, following lane down to the stream. At the enormous old cork tree turn to follow stream down to mill. 5 mins, 40.1100, -8.1350 Wqeh 3 PRAIA FLUVIAL DE SÃO GIÃO Cool dark water under broadleaf trees. A dam holds the River Alva and it fills the deep-built sides. A grassy bank on one side and a children’s slide with café on the other.

From Oliveira do Hospital take N230 S; at ,, the junction with N17 turn L and follow M506, continuing on EM514 for 2km. Turn R over old stone bridge. Enter via camping, park on R. 2 mins, 40.3468, -7.8078 sgq1T 4 PRAIA FLUVIAL, PONTE DAS TRÊS ENTRADAS Two rivers, the Alva and Alvôco, converge under the arches of an old stone bridge. Water so clear you can stand on the shingle bottom and watch as small fish weave between your limbs. Rowing boats for hire and a rope swing. From Oliveira do Hospital take N230 S; at ,, the junction with N17 turn R to Santa Ovaia. Turn L at Santa Ovaia onto N230 and continue to the River Alva. Park and walk down. 2 mins, 40.3070, -7.8727 sg1T2 5 PRAIA FLUVIAL DE AVÔ A Bruegel-esque swim emporium with spindly stone bridges, converging rivers, grassy banks, dogs chasing sticks, paddling pool area, rocks for leaping, sunbathing area, picnic tables and a mystical stone further upstream behind woods. From Oliveira do Hospital take N230 S; at ,, the junction with N17 turn R to Santa Ovaia.

Turn L at Santa Ovaia onto N230 until a sharpback R turn to Avô. 5 mins, 40.2943, -7.9061 1qsTW 6 PRAIA FLUVIAL, SÃO SEBASTIÃO DA FEIRA Child-friendly swim with wide shallow water along the River Alva and a gentle tiered waterfall. Sandy river beach and cafe. Old wooden mill wheel further upstream. From Oliveira do Hospital take N230 ,, S; at the junction with N17 turn R towards Santa Ovaia. Turn L after 2km at sign for São Sebastião da Feira. Follow signs to Praia Fluvial. 2 mins, 40.3147, -7.8668 1qs 7 PRAIA FLUVIAL, CÔJA Wide and deep water as the River Alva slows its course, trees lean over on the far side making perfect jumping platforms. The further upstream you wander, the wilder it gets. There are diving boards, a couple of slate-built bars with tables looking over the water and canoes for hire (call +351 235 729 765 or just turn up). From Oliveira do Hospital take N230 S; at ,, the junction with N17 turn R to pass Santa Ovaia. Turn L at signs for Côja. In Côja follow signs to the Praia Fluvial. 2 mins, 40.2676, -7.9954 s1Tkg2

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XX 11 8 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO BARRIL DE ALVA A shady river beach with grassy banks and a boardwalk out to a picnic island. There is a working watermill and the water is usually paddle-depth, a little deeper under the bridge. From Côja (see 7) take N344 then R onto ,, N517-1, signed for Barril de Alva, as far as the bridge. Park and walk down. 1 min, 40.2853, -7.9606 q1W 9 PRAIA FLUVIAL DE MOINHOS DE ALVA If nearby beaches are too busy, this is likely to be quieter. Tumbledown mills by the weir offers water deep enough to jump. Shingle beach and longer swims up the winding Alva. From Côja (see 7) take the N344 N for 1km ,, towards Barril de Alva. Park by the roadside and walk down R. 1 min, 40.2742, -7.9839 T1q

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10 PRAIA FLUVIAL DA LOUÇAINHA Deep and high-sided with wide river pools and steps down to the water. Follow further downstream to a wooded shady area. From Miranda do Corvo take N17 and M556 ,, to Vila Nova; then follow M639 and signs for Praia Fluvial da Louçainha. Parking. 2 mins, 40.0264, -8.3038 1s

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11 PRAIA FLUVIAL DA PENEDA Clear water and a rope swing upstream, shallow shingle islands and sandcastle heaven for small children further down. Dangle your feet in the water from the bar tables suspended over the river. Busy but a short walk upstream yields a wilder wooded area. Park in Góis town square and walk down ,, towards the river bridge. Walk down the W side; it’s 100m on your L. 5 mins, 40.1539, -8.1121 1qshT 12 FOZ DE ÉGUA Two small schist bridges arch over water so clear it’s like swimming in crystal. A signed and circular 7km PR route leads from here to Piódão over the hills. From Piódão follow signs downhill for Foz ,, de Égua on CM1134. 2 mins, 40.2487, -7.8134 h1q 13 PRAIA FLUVIAL, COLMEAL Forests line the banks along the cool clear River Ceira. There is a shallow shingle pool under the dam and cascades, getting deeper and wilder upstream. Picnic tables and BBQ. Park on the S of Colmeal bridge, walk down . ,, 2 mins, 40.1385, -7.9987 1Wh

XX 12 14 PRAIA FLUVIAL DA CASCALHEIRA Great expanse of deep water due to the dam they have built here. There are diving boards, rope swings, jumping trees, fishing spots, a bar, toilet and BBQs. From Arganil follow signs for Côja along ,, EN342. After the roundabout at the end of Secarias turn L towards Mouronho and 200m ahead follow signs for Praia Fluvial Cascalheira. 5 mins, 40.2489, -8.0358 Wk1Tq 15 PRAIA FLUVIAL, CABREIRA Deep swims in a wide curve of the Ceira by the remains of an abandoned schist village. Now a couple of BBQs for communal use. From Góis follow signs for Colmeal on ,, M543. After 10 mins, pass this beach on your R. Park and walk down. 5 mins, 40.1418, -8.0662 1h 16 PRAIA FLUVIAL, CAVALEIROS DE BAIXO Deep green water in this corner of the Ceira overhung with trees. Large smooth stones line the bottom of the pool where it deepens before the tiered dam. From Colmeal take the M543 N towards ,, Texeira, turn R at signs to Casal Novo and

continue until Cavaleiros de Baixo. Park in village and follow the narrow lane down. 10 mins, 40.1545, -7.9476 h1W 17 PONTE DE FAJÃO A shallow swim in summer and a suntrap surrounded by the wild Serra do Açor. Picnic tables on the riverbank and the shade created by olive trees make it a peaceful siesta spot. From Fajão follow signs to Ponte de Fajão. ,, Park at the bridge. 2 mins, 40.1504, -7.9114 h1

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18 PRAIA FLUVIAL, BOGUEIRA A deep green swim along the Ceira with a sloping gentle entrance to the water. Canoes for hire and great for pond-dipping in the stream beyond the dam. From Serpins follow M552 towards Casal ,, de Ermio. At Casal de Ermio, L at the brown sign for Praia Fluvial Bogueira. Parking. 5 mins, 40.1535, -8.2414 k1sq 19 CABRIL DO CEIRA Wide, deep water of the Ceira surrounds a gorge resembling the ‘clashing rocks’ from the 1963 film Jason and the Argonauts.

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XX 23 Swim on your back though the gorge and look up to see swallows darting to nests either side. Beautiful deep water for jumping off the ledge under the gorge. From Vila Nova da Ceira, take N342-3 SW ,, for 4km, cross the River Ceira on R, and take the 2nd dirt track on R. Keep on the dusty track level all the way until you reach the river. 2 mins, 40.1768, -8.1748 h1T* 20 PRAIA FLUVIAL DE PESSEGUEIRO A beautiful but busy river beach with a network of bridges, dams and river-filled pools. Great little bar in the old watermill. Follow brown signs from Pessegueiro. ,, 5 mins, 40.0523, -8.0241 k1Tsq

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secret waterfalls 21 FRAGA DA PENA Deep within magical woodland is a beautiful clear waterfall and pool. Hidden under trees are numerous secret picnic spots and earth steps to old mill houses or tiny bridges. From Benfeita take M518 S towards ,, Pardieiros, but after 1km follow signs to Fraga da Pena. Parking. 10 mins, 40.2209, -7.9359 hW1=

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22 CASCADA DA PEDRA FERIDA Discover this waterfall by scrambling along the river path, through tangled roots and shady trees, passing an old bridge and mill ruins. Known as the ‘wounded stone’, this cascade has a small plunge pool beneath after the clamber up. From Espinhal follow signs down and, past ,, the large olive tree, follow the dirt track all the way to the information board; park and walk. 10 mins, 40.0197, -8.3286 hW1= 23 POÇO DA CESTA A beautiful swim spot with curved rocks for sunbathing thrones. Many different pools of varying depths and one great plunge pool. From Cavaleiros de Cima take the road N ,, for 500m into Casal Novo and follow signs for Poço. Keep straight, past allotments, down the side of the guesthouses. 10 mins, 40.1630, -7.9430 h1T=q

crafts & traditions 24 ECO-MUSEU, AIGRA NOVA Learn about honey, the chestnut harvest, and lives governed by seasons in this museum of local traditions. If you read Portuguese, memories are recorded verbatim on the wall.

XX 27 If not, there is traditional farm machinery, a wildlife museum and a plant nursery nearby. From Góis take the N2 S for 5km, turn R ,, onto N342, follow signs L to Aigra Nova. Park and walk into town, follow signs to Eco-Museu. 5 mins, 40.1201, -8.1542 hze 25 MONTE FRIO ALPACA FARM An alpaca farm just outside Benfeita offering alpaca treks around the beautiful landscape, picnics, wool-weaving workshops and wool-crafted gifts. N of Benfeita on M518. +351 926 179 255, ,, Montefrioalpacas.com 2 mins, 40.2320, -7.9462 zxW

hiking & biking 26 CANDAL PR TRAIL This signed and circular 11km PR route begins in Candal and leads through chestnut forests, mountain villages to Lousã castle. From Lousã take the N236 S towards ,, Cerdeira and continue uphill to Candal. 3 hrs, 40.0807, -8.2034 z3*e 27 CONCHA DE FAJÃO The remnants of a visiting Frenchman’s

zealous intentions to create a Caminho de Santiago pilgrim route through Pampilhosa da Serra. The scallop shell, an ancient pilgrim symbol, is still mown into the side of the mountain and can be seen from satellites and on Google Earth. Alas the route is still a pipedream but you can walk a 4km loop (signed PR1) from Fajão’s church square. Park in town and walk up from the church at ,, (40.1494, -7.9238). 1 hr, 40.1523, -7.9259 zh6 28 TRANS SERRANO Outdoor centre offering activities such as canyoning, climbing, abseiling and orienteering, as well as bread-making workshops in old mills, and olive oil tours. From Góis old town cross the river and head ,, up towards campsite; offices on R. Contacts also in the campsite. Bairro S. Paulo 2, 3330304 Góis +351 235 778 938, Transserrano.com 1 min, 40.1556, -8.1135 zc2s

mountain villages 29 ALDEIA DAS DEZ Beautiful schist-built mountain village with narrow, cobbled streets and walnut trees. Visit in October for the chestnut festival.

XX 29 From the N230 between Avô and Alvoco das ,, Várzeas, turn S on M508 and follow for 2.5km. 2 mins, 40.2957, -7.8669 esg6 30 PIÓDÃO Wander the tangle of tiny alleys in this mountain village made entirely of schist. Stone steps lead up between ancient ,, houses, cats sleep in doorways and the white fairytale church is wonderfully incongruous with streets so narrow you can smell the history. 1 min, 40.2304, -7.8251 esg

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31 AIGRA VELHA An ancient farming village, now deserted but for a few buildings used for livestock, faces the mountains. See the remains of two gates which used to protect inhabitants from wolves. 2km S of Aigra Nova. ,, 2 mins, 40.1107, -8.1489 eh 32 ALDEIA DA PENA Keep your faith with Pena: when you arrive it looks like a cement mistake. You have to slip in down one of the narrow alleys to discover ancient houses at strange, layered angles. Kiwi, cherry and fig trees blossom outside. 4km S of Aigra Nova. ,, 2 mins, 40.1102, -8.1344 eh

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local food 33 PRENSA DA RIBEIRA, CÔJA An old olive oil press and mill-house now transformed into a restaurant by the family. Try the local cheese, various wines and, of course, olive oils at tables set around the old press and mill stones. They do several regional dishes including costeletas de novilho, veal cutlets made in the regional way. Rua dos Alfabres, 3305-139 Côja ,, +351 235 729 614 40.2669, -7.9861 sYe

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34 CASA TI MARIA, GÓIS A cosy restaurant with a friendly host cooking typical Portuguese dishes. The bitoque – a steak and chips with a fried egg on top – here is mouth-watering. R. Santo António 2, 3330-310 Góis ,, +351 912 703 071 40.1556, -8.1109 sYe

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35 RESTAURANTE O PASCOAL, FAJÃO Enjoy dinner in this little stone restaurant in the village of Fajão. Try regional specialities here such as chanfana de cabra, a dish from Pampilhosa da Serra of goat stewed with wine, laurel, paprika and garlic, in a caçoilas (black pottery) and baked in a wood oven. They also have local cheese and make a great tigelada for pudding (eggs, sugar and lemon baked until brown in a clay pot.) Rua das Flores, 3320 Fajão ,, +351 235 751 219 40.1495, -7.9229 sYe

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36 RESTAURANTE FONTINHA, PIÓDÃO In the heart of the quaint little schist-built mountain village. Here you can try hearty regional food such as goat stew in the wood

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oven, roast kid and smoked meats, but the locally sourced grilled trout is heavenly. Rua Eugénio Correia, 6285-018 Piódão ,, +351 235 731 151 40.2298, -7.8249 ksYe 37 MERCADO EM BARRIL DE ALVA Every third Saturday of the month there’s this hippie-run market just outside the village by the river beach. Buy organic creams, vintage clothes, bric-a-brac, plants and delicious baked goods, fruit and veg. There might even be some circus performers. From Côja take the N344 towards Barril ,, de Alva for 4km; the market is just before the bridge on M517-1. 40.2865, -7.9614 s 38 BOUTIQUE DA TUXA, CÔJA A lively little bakery filled with many different regional cakes and heaped piles of freshly baked breads. The traditional pão de agua, dusty bread rolls, are exceptional in Arganil and this is an excellent vendor. Praça Dr Alberto Vale 3, 3305-150 Côja ,, +351 235 721 523 40.2681, -7.9888 s

hilltop retreats 39 CASAS DA SERRA DO AÇOR Three beautiful schist houses in this tiny hamlet, surrounded by the stunning Açor mountain range. The River Ceira runs near and there are several hiking and biking trails. See 23 for directions to Casal Novo. Rua da ,, Capela, Casal Novo, 3300-221 Arganil +351 235 751 036, Casasdaserradoacor.pt 40.1622, -7.9442 gshcz 40 CASA DE CEREJINHA, PENA A gorgeous two-bedroomed centuries-old mountain house in Pena village built with schist stone and with a deep recessed fireplace typical of Lousã. Open your windows to incredible mountain views and step out of the front door to narrow cobbled streets winding down to the babbling river. Pena-Góis +351 914 009 194, ,, Casadacerejinha.wordpress.com 40.1105, -8.1348 zeg 41 JARDIM DA TIA A beautiful chic little cottage with a veranda and fig trees in the foothills of the Serra da Lousã mountains. Enjoy the beautiful views in the morning with a basket of fresh bread, cheese and fruit with home-made jams for

breakfast on the terrace. Sleeps 2-4 people. Terra da Gaga, Serpins 3200-350, ,, Jardimdatia.com 40.1717, -8.2024 sgc2 42 CASA DE CAMPO DA COMAREIRA A lovely retreat in the Serra da Lousã mountains. “On top of the hills, overlooking the world” is their slogan and you will feel quite removed from the world here. Just remember how bustling this busy farming community would once have been. Sleeps 6. 3330-231 Comareira, Góis ,, +351 235 778 644, Lousitanea.org Arcos 40.1252, -8.1511 gseh

wilder camping 44 PARQUE CAMPISMO PONTE DAS TRÊS ENTRADAS Shady relaxed campsite on the banks of the river Alva with soft turf pitches, bungalows, furnished tents or apartments. A beautiful fluvial beach waits just next door. There is a wonderful communal kitchen with an enormous round stone barbecue within. See 4 for directions to Ponte das ,, Três Entradas. 3400-591 Santa Ovaia, Oliveira do Hospital +351 238 670 050, Pontedas3entradas.com 40.3072, -7.8717 gsqd1

45 PARQUE CAMPISMO, GÓIS 43 QUINTA DA MOENDA The municipal campsite with river swims in Beautiful 18th century watermill on the the nearby Ceira and some extraordinary banks of the river Alvôco with five selfwooden bungalows. Trans Serrano will catering apartments. A short stroll takes you organise activities from here (see 28). Mortágua to the river beach with grassy banks. Mealhada Santa Comba Dão Góis Parque do Castelo, 3330-309 , , Av. Fronteira, 3400-301 Alvoco das Várzeas ,, 18 +351 961 401 859, Goiscamping.com +351 238 666 443, Quintadamoenda.com 40.1548, -8.1135 gs1d 40.3041, -7.8413 g1ze

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46 PARQUE CAMPISMO, SÃO GIÃO A shady camping site with river swims in the deep green Alva and a traditional, dark little restaurant over an old mill. Children and dogs are made very welcome here. Fundação Albino Mendes da Silva, ,, 3400-570 São Gião +351 238 691 154, Parquesaogiao.blogspot.pt 40.3460, -7.8081 sqg1YWd 47 PARQUE CAMPISMO DE CÔJA This is a heavenly campsite, by the peaceful banks of the river Alva, with steps down to the river beach. Prego do Soito, 3305-096 Côja ,, +351 235 729 666, Fcmportugal.com 40.2670, -7.9954 gs1d

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23 Fajão 39 16 27 3517

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leiria Our perfect weekend ,,Catch sight of eagles wheeling overhead on the banks of the Zêzere river ,,Open your eyes underwater to a subaquatic kingdom of rocks at Fragas de São Simão ,,Picnic on the mountains under shady pine trees at the old Santo António da Neve ice-houses ,,Explore the labyrinthine caves at Grutas de Alvados ,,Leap and tumble down Portugal’s biggest sand dune at Salir do Porto beach ,,Climb up the Fórnea plateau to find your own wild cave at Cova da Velha ,,Windsurf over the golden lagoon at Lagoa de Óbidos as coastal winds fill your sails ,,Feast on freshwater fish on the veranda overlooking the calm River Zêzere at Restaurante O Barqueiro ,,Daydream in a hammock at Casal de São Simão surrounded by wooded hills and distant craggy outcrops ,,Wander along riverbanks past old watermills, mossy bridges and wild woodland on the Casal de São Simão walking trail

The history of human settlement in Leiria province dates back hundreds of thousands of years. It is a land, bordered by the sea on the west and the mountains to the east, which continues to enchant those who visit. One of the most fascinating and evocative discoveries here was of a 25,000-year-old skeleton in a cliff-side cave. The child, known as the Lapedo Child, had been buried with a red shawl, dyeing the surrounding earth red, a shell necklace and a deer-tooth headdress. The skeleton is of considerable importance in the understanding of human evolution.

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At Foz de Alge the mouth of the great Zêzere river opens up, offering deep and calm swims while eagles wheel in the air above. Further inland, at Fragas de São Simão, the Alge has carved a dramatic gorge with cliffs of limestone and quartz. The river below flows as clear as crystal. Known as “the kingdom of stone”, Leiria is home to the great limestone plateau of Serras de Aire e Candeeiros. Here the rivers plunge their channels underground and have created a network of subterranean caverns. Outcrops of quartz, limestone and granite, encircling the limestone massif, are only the tips of a subterranean wonderland, as the sinkholes, ravines and depressions testify to a glittering dark-stone underworld.

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At Grutas de Mira de Aire, with conjoining caverns reaching 112m underground, you can explore the Octopus Gallery, the Fountain of Pearl, the Black River, the Organ and the Pulpit. The initial cavern, a great calcified cathedral, was discovered by men looking for water in the dry summer of 1947. Swinging into the vaulted darkness on ropes, they had only their voices and dropped stones to gauge the abyss beyond their dim gas lamps.

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The less visited caves of Grutas de Alvados drip with stalactites which form a natural parapet over a 70m drop to fathomless darkness. Ancient rocks, ossified into shrouded figures, throng the shadowy passages. A stalactite Madonna looms from one recess, and these calcified statues are older than 24,000 years. Time itself is encased within the damp walls here in a dark-bellied system, deep underground, the seat of creation, the wild womb of Earth itself.

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rivers & waterfalls 1 FRAGAS DE SÃO SIMÃO A towering gorge over crystalline water. Further downstream, the water forms a large green pool with jumping rocks and a fallen tree across. There are several waterfalls before the river disappears into woodland. From Aldeia de Ana de Aviz, take N237 dir ,, Bacelo for 3km. Turn R onto M525, follow signs to Fragas de S. Simão. Park before bridge and walk up past old mill-houses. Pass café and green pool and scramble up rocky path to gorge. 5 mins, 39.9155, -8.3195 sYT=h*1 2 PRAIA FLUVIAL, ANA DE AVIS A small riverbank with a grassy area, a little close to main road and fairly manicured. But it does have a library. Just off the N237, turn off at signs for ,, Aldeia de Ana de Avis. Parking. 2 mins, 39.9185, -8.2846 1qks 3 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO POÇO DE CORGA Three tiers of bathing pools filled by the River Pêra: one shallow, deeper and then a sandy pool below. Great picnic spot and huge rocks for drying off. Old oil olive press

museum upstream. From Castanheira de Pera take N236 N and ,, follow brown signs to Poço Corga. 2 mins, 40.0250, -8.1902 1Tqs 4 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO MOSTEIRO A small, lively picnic spot with two cafés by a lawn and a water slide into the Ribeira de Pêra. From Pedrógão Grande take the IC8 W and ,, turn off for Cacilhas. From Cacilhas follow signs to Praia Fluvial Mosteiro. Parking. 2 mins, 39.9357, -8.1861 Ws1k 5 PRAIA FLUVIAL DE MEGA FUNDEIRA Large stone steps lead down to the shallow Ribeira da Mega, a stream which locals claim has healing properties. A good small bar serves beer and snails in summer. A 3km walking trail, Trilho de Mega Fundeira, passes here. From the N2 between Pedrogão Grande ,, and Louriceira, turn off at signs for Mega Fundeira and follow signs to the Praia Fluvial. Park just up the lane and walk down. 2 mins, 39.9855, -8.1216 Ws1

dunes & lagoons 6 SALIR DO PORTO SAND DUNES

This is Portugal’s biggest sand dune. Climb up its sides and, weak in the knees, fill up your lungs over a view across the coastline. Then run all the way back down. Salir do Porto; parking after Dunas Café. ,, 5 mins, 39.5020, -9.1518 q 7 LAGOA DE ÓBIDOS A lagoon protected from the sea by dunes which act as a barrier. The water is warm and salty and has an average depth of 2m. It’s a perfect place to learn to windsurf, sail, kitesurf, paddleboard or canoe. Call Escola de Vela da Lagoa for activities ,, +351 262 978 592, Escoladeveladalagoa.com 2 mins, 39.4097, -9.2020 1qs2 8 PRAIA DA BOAVISTA A beautifully deserted beach but the tide comes in fast so be careful. Park in Boavista and take the track down to ,, the beach. 10 mins, 39.4758, -9.1906 1hwo 9 PRAIA DO SALGADO A quiet beach, even quieter if you walk away from café area. Sandy with crashing waves. From Venda Nova exit towards Casal do ,,

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XX 10 Pias and take the Rua do Praia do Salgado on your L and follow track down to the beach. 2 mins, 39.5475, -9.1114 1s 10 FOZ DO ARELHO The gentle Óbidos lagoon flows across the dune barrier to create a shallow stream over the beach – great paddling or warmer dips. Deserted off-season but popular in summer. Take the N360 into Foz do Arelho and park ,, up at the sea front. Walk down to the beach. 5 mins, 39.4336, -9.2280 qk1 XX 13

11 PRAIA DO BOM SUCESSO The beach on the S side of Foz do Arelho (see 10), this is a perfect place to watch the sunset over the sand dunes of this beautiful curling coastline. From Vau take the M573 all the way N to ,, the coast and follow signs to ‘Bom Sucesso’. 5 mins, 39.4262, -9.2386 k16q

parks & picnics 12 SENSORY ECO-PARK DA PIA DO URSO Set in the beautiful rich forest of Batalha, this is a unique wild park offering new experiences and sensations to the visually

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impaired. There are trails, sounds, smells and shapes through which you can discover the region’s history. Hidden along the woodland paths are structures for climbing and wild play: a wooden planetarium, a watermill, a Jurassic climbing frame, a music station and a creative station. Also picnic tables, old windmills and wonderfully shaped rocks. The trail passes the park’s namesake sinkholes, the Pia do Urso (bears’ watering holes). From Barreiro Grande take main road N for ,, 500m, follow signs on L. Portela das Cruzes, 2495-031 São Mamede +351 244 769 110 2 mins, 39.5982, -8.7166 qhzgs 13 SANTO ANTÓNIO DA NEVE ICE-HOUSES On the ancient hilltop of Cabeço de Pereiro stand several small ice-houses. Once used for collecting the snow to make ice for the King of Lisbon. Now, at high summer, a perfect place for a picnic under pine trees. From Coentral follow signs for St. António ,, da Neve N up the hill. 5 mins, 40.0788, -8.1610 heW

rocks & caves 14 PEGADAS DE DINOSSÁURIO In the Serras de Aire e Candeeiros Natural

XX 18 Park you can see the most beautifully preserved footprints of the world’s greatest animals: 20 tracks of enormous sauropods left 175 million years ago imprinted onto a limestone slab. These animals were quadruped herbivores with long necks and short tails. There is an interactive centre with a film introduction and after that you are free to wander. Tuesdays–Sundays. Estr. de Fátima, 2490-216 Ourém +351 249 ,, 530 160, Pegadasdedinossaurios.org 5 mins, 39.5728, -8.5888 Qkqn“ 15 GRUTAS DE ALVADOS A cave network discovered by shepherds. Sparkling stalactites over 24,000 years old throng the walls of this subterranean cathedral. This lesser-known cave network takes much smaller tour groups, even individual tours, and the natural lighting allows your imagination to run wild. Grutas de Alvados, 2480-034 Alvados, ,, +351 244 441 274 Grutasalvados.com 2 mins, 39.5392, -8.7525 9s“ 16 GRUTAS DE MIRA DE AIRE Explore a hidden world in these networks of subterranean caves 112m deep: explore the Octopus Gallery, Pulpit and Black River.

A guide will tell you of their discovery and history. €6.50 for an adult ticket. Signed off the N243 into Mira de Aire. ,, Parking. Av. Dr. Luciano Justo Ramos 470, 2485-050 Mira de Aire +351 244 440 322, Grutasmiradaire.com 1 hr, 39.5403, -8.7040 9“ 17 PENEDO FURADO Bring some good luck and follow tradition by running under this ‘stone with holes’, a massive weathered rock incongruous with the calm lagoon. From Foz do Arelho continue around Lagoa ,, de Óbidos on the coast road. 1 min, 39.4274, -9.2121 Qn 18 COVA DA VELHA Discover your own cave, or the Old Woman’s Cave as it’s known, hidden in the limestone hills of Fórnea. Dry in summer, in winter the cave becomes a mouth springing with bubbling water. A trail passes here (22) or access from N243 ,, from Alcaria: follow signs for ‘Fórnea’, take dirt track through olive groves. Park in clearing and walk the 2km pedestrian route up to the cave. 30 mins, 39.5572, -8.8047 vh9*

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hiking & biking 19 CASAL DE SÃO SIMÃO WALKING TRAIL A beautiful 5km circular walk past the rivers Alge and Fato, past wild swimming spots under the Fragas de São Simão (see 1), old watermills, ancient bridges and wild dense woodland. Signed from Fragas de São Simão (see 1). ,, 1.5 hrs, 39.9155, -8.3195 e53zh1 XX 19

20 MEGA FUNDEIRA WALKING TRAIL A 3km signed trail following the course of the stream. Leads from the Praia Fluvial da Mega ,, Fundeira (see 5). 1 hr, 39.9855, -8.1216 z1 21 PRAIA DA VIEIRA WALKING TRAIL Beginning at the mouth of the River Lis this 11km circular boardwalk explores the river, dunes and pine forests of Leiria and Pedrógão. Leaving Marinha Grande follow EM242,, 2 towards Praia da Vieira, then L at final roundabout (with a boat in the middle). 3 hrs, 39.8795, -8.9684 z1

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22 FÓRNEA – ALCARIA WALKING TRAIL This 11km trail will take you up over the magnificent natural amphitheatre known as Fórnea, formed by the limestone plateau as it drops away to form a sweeping curve. In spring, a waterfall cascades out of the Cova da Velha cave hidden in the side of this amphitheatre and rushes through the valley. In summer, when the source has dried, you can explore this cave. Begin/end at Café da Bica, Alcaria, on N243. ,, 3 hrs, 39.5689, -8.7946 h6*zsv9

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23 CAMPO ARQUEOLÓGICO DE VALE DO LAPEDO Explore the enchanting Lapedo valley with its river, wild hillsides and strange limestone formations. It was also where they found the Lapedo child, of great significance as this 25,000-year-old skeleton revealed that the child was progeny of Neanderthal and human interbreeding. You can discover more in the small interpretation centre or follow a short signed walk from here. From Leiria take the N350 E for 9km, ,, into Carrasqueira, continue until the Café Paisagem de Lapedo by the carpark. Park here. Call ahead to book a visit on +351 244 839 677 or museudeleiria@cm-leiria.pt. Centro de Interpretação Abrigo do Lagar Velho - Lapedo, Carrasqueira 2414-006 Santa Eufémia 1 hr, 39.7580, -8.7313 zQh

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local food 24 RESTAURANTE O TERREIRO DO LAGAR, CABEÇA REDONDA A rural restaurant opposite olive groves, the locals come here to eat. The portions are very generous with typical Portuguese dishes made with fresh local produce. Specialities include bacalhau à lagareiro, polvo à lagareiro and medalhões de lombo recheados (stuffed tenderloin medallions.) From Maxial take the M560 NE for 1km. ,, Cabeça Redonda, 3230-012 Ansiao +351 236 677 226 39.9321, -8.4067 eYs 25 COGUMELOS DA SERRA DA LUA, VALVERDE A colourful array of fresh mushrooms for sale, gathered that morning at this organic mushroom farm: frilled, hooded, pinks and ochres. Also has great recipe suggestions. Just off the N362 in Cabeça Veada, to your ,, R if entering from Valverde. Travessa Lagar Velho 7, Valverde, 2025-240 Alcanede +351 927 521 274, Serradalua.pt 39.4787, -8.8568 s 26 FESTIVAL DO CHÍCHARO, ALVAIÁZERE A festival in Alvaiázere to celebrate the green pulse traditionally grown in this area. There’s dancing, music and wonderful local gastronomy – perhaps try a slice of the deliciously sweet tarte de chícharo. Mid June. Alvaiázere, Alvaiazerecapitaldochicharo.pt ,, 39.8245, -8.3820 sY 27 RESTAURANTE O BARQUEIRO This fishermen-run family restaurant is the only building on this promontory. The catch of the day is served on the long terrace overlooking the Zêzere. From Foz de Alge take the road N along the ,, River Alge, cross at the first bridge on your R, turn R again and follow down. Rua Cova da Eira, Fóz de Alge, 3260-090 Figueiró dos Vinhos +351 236 551 647 39.8308, -8.2770 esY6 28 RESTAURANTE SOLAR, FIGUEIRÓ DOS VINHOS A hall in the town square hung with hunting paraphernalia and with dramatic soaps running on the television. Great dishes at good prices. Ask for the dorada fish. Praça Município 9/13, 3260-408 Figueiró ,, dos Vinhos 39.9028, -8.2758 sY

29 RESTAURANTE NACO NA PEDRA, SALIR DO PORTO Have your steak cooked on a hot rock, or a smooth hot stone: it seems an appropriate dish for Leiria, the Kingdom of Stone. Rua do Casal 5, 2500-680 Salir do Porto ,, +351 936 069 473 39.4931, -9.1569 s

Rua Joao Alves 37- 39, Cortém, 2500-741 ,, Vidais +351 262 930 027, Vinhoscortem.com 39.3786, -9.0681 sYhg

rural retreats

30 ADEGA DO LUÍS, LIVRAMENTO This is a rustic hideout, with the only giveaway being the smell of wood smoke and cooking coming from their chimney. Try devilish grilled meats or stews from the wood oven, and all the cakes are baked onsite. Rua Principal 650, Livramento, 2480-162 ,, Porto de Mós +351 964 103 287 39.5880, -8.8121 esYs 31 VINHOS CORTÉM An organic vineyard set in a valley just E of Caldas da Rainha. It’s a protected area and very quiet. At night wild pigs come down the hills to settle in the vineyards. Stay in their self-catering guest suites with a pool and garden. Chris and Helga have planted many different varieties and their wine lots are small and won’t be found in any supermarket. You’ll have to visit them for a tasting!

Cooking lessons with regional and seasonal ingredients, overseen by chef Nuno Barros. A balancing and healing retreat to bring you back into harmony with nature. Rua Asseguia das Lages 181, 2480-032 ,, Alvados +351 244 447 000, Cookinghotel.com 39.5486, -8.7734 hseYg

32 CASAL DE SÃO SIMÃO A couple of pretty traditional little houses in the schist village of Casal de São Simão. Casa Amarela and Casa a Lura are two idyllic 35 CAMPING FOZ DE ALGE cottage escapes with logfires, hammocks and views to the wooded crags of São Simão. Sleep beneath pine trees and watch the eagles Casal de São Simão, Figueiró dos Vinhos circling above the River Zêzere. Simple and ,, Calvão +351 917 279 176, Casaldesaosimao.com hearty Portuguese cooking in their restaurant. Arcos Paths lead down to the river for a swim. 39.9163, -8.3226 sghe Vilarinho do Bairro Moita Sobral Foz de Alge, 3260-090 Arega, ,, Curre Figueiró dos Vinhos +351 236 641 108, 33 CASA DO VALE DO PAPO, VALE Mortágua Mealhada Luso Santa Comba D Pcampismofozalge.eu5.org 18 A drystone house in the village of Vale Casal39.8267, Comba -8.2739 gq1hsd surrounded by the rural hills of Serra do Pampilhosa Sicó. A cosy house with a number of walks Barcouço 36 CAMPING O MOINHO, BOLO to caves, rivers and strange rocks signed nearby. Sleeps one to six. A small campsite with access to the gentle Aldeia37 do Vale, 3100-000 Pombal River Pêra and Praia Fluvial Poço da Corga. A ,, 9 38 7 47 13 633, Casadovale.pt +351 236 217 baker comes in the mornings July/August. 14 Coimbra Arganil See 3Coimbra for directions to Poço da Corga. Bolo, 39.8998, -8.5724 hegpoco ,, Poço da Corga, 3280-113 Castanheira de Pêra 4119 34 COOKING & NATURE EMOTIONAL HOTEL +351 236 438 762 18 45 40.0253, -8.1897 q1hd Tranquil modern architecture with views 15 13 42 across Serras de Aire e Candeeiros.

wilder camping

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p131

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2210

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castelo branco Our perfect weekend ,,Perch high on a rock above Monsanto, be silent, and let the porous stones speak ,,Leap into the cool water at Fonte do Pego surrounded by wild hills ,,Skinny-dip by the reedy banks of the River Ocreza ,,Hold your breath as eagles whirl over their sky-scraping nests along the wild River Erges ,,Watch for wild Iberian lynx in the hills of Serra da Malcata ,,Bivvy down on the banks of Barragem Marechal Carmona canopied by dark sky studded with stars ,,Share a heaped plate of deliciously salty migas de peixe ,,Marvel at the 600 million year old â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;painted snakesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in the Penha Garcia ravines ,,Play hide and seek in the woods outside Alvito da Beira

The rocks and hills of the Castelo Branco district, where central Portugal borders Spain, hold geological secrets many thousands of years old. The towns of Penha Garcia, Idanha-a-Velha and Monsanto crown ravines of granite and quartz, 600 million years old, some with snaking fossils holding memories of an ancient ocean. At the river beach in Penha Garcia you can discover trilobites writhing on the ocean floor, one ancient moment caught forever and thrust up to the mountains. In Monsanto, tiny stone houses are built haphazardly around great boulders scattered like marbles over the hilltop; its narrow streets smell of wine cellars, crypts and old books. Stone houses, chapels and bread ovens are built wedged between boulders acting as roof here and a ceiling there: a balance between the man-made and natural. Look out for the marafona – or rag-doll – weavers who sit in doorways with their baskets of colourful wares.

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A path leads from Monsanto to its Templar castle. A stone arch of a longgone chapel remains, Ozymandias-like, to frame the wild sun-bleached hills beneath. The hills lie enveloped in a seemingly perpetual silence, while below murmur the legends, myths and songs of the land.

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This weathered and primeval landscape continues further into the Raiana area before the frontier with Spain. Salvaterra do Extremo, a village on the extremities of Portugal, is lost in a landscape composed of extremes: beyond the vast open plains of Idanha-a-Nova the granite ravines rip up out of the flats to form towering stone chasms. Hundreds of birds of prey nest along the gorges through which the wild River Erges flows. The landscape is overwhelming and, if you take one of the nearby walks, you can lose all sense of scale. 10 1 XX

This immensity feeds into the Raiana mindset, in the words of local artist and poet Nunes Pereira: “The little that God gave me/ Fits in a closed hand/ A little with God is everything/ A lot without God is nothing”. To the north, the Serra da Malcata nature reserve is home to the Iberian lynx, while if you follow the Ocreza, Pônsul and Aravil rivers flowing south-west into the Tejo, griffon vultures, black storks, golden eagles and Egyptian vultures are the guardians of the upper reaches of this river. See this wildlife on foot following any number of walks, plenty of which have opportunities for a dip in a wild river along the way.

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lakes & river beaches 1 BARRAGEM MARECHAL CARMONA Constructed in 1946, this reservoir is a haven for wildlife with its sandy shores, trees and flora. A beautiful stargazing spot. From Idanha-a-Nova, along the N354 or ,, N332 there are various tracks leading off with signs to the Barragem Marechal Carmona. 10 mins, 39.9468, -7.1967 h6*14D 2 PRAIA FLUVIAL DA TABERNA SECA Steep slopes with olive trees fall down on the one side of the River Ocreza, with a shingle beach on the other. From Taberna Seca take the N233 W to ,, cross the river Ocreza, then follow signs L. 1 min, 39.8388, -7.5941 Ks1 3 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO SESMO By the schist village of Sesmo, this river beach is surrounded by hills. Formed by a dam in a small tributary to the river Ocreza, it has built-up sides but deep and wide water. From Pomar take the main road S for 1.5km, ,, turn R down narrow cobbled road, keep R and follow road down 500m to beach. Parking. 1 min, 39.8596, -7.7426, 1ksW

4 PRAIA FLUVIAL DE ALMACEDA A small river beach in the village of Almaceda with built-up banks but deep green water. There is an old olive press you can visit, which was once river-powered. Take the M525 into Almaceda and park near ,, the bridge. 1 min, 40.0072, -7.6611 1k 5 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO MALHADAL Green, deep lake surrounded by olive groves. There’s a high diving platform that’s perfect for a thrilling leap. From the CM1172 follow signs for Praia ,, Fluvial Malhadal. 1 min, 39.7966, -7.9527 W1skq 6 PRAIA FLUVIAL CEREJEIRA A wide and deep shingle-bottom river beach, dark green water. Lawns and shade. From Sarzedas take the N233 S for 10km, ,, after bridge take sharp R at signs to Cerejeira. Follow signs S to ‘Praia Fluvial’ from Cerejeira. 2 mins, 39.8099, -7.7531 W1skq 7 PRAIA FLUVIAL DA FRÓIA Built-up banks and ladders lead down into deep, green fresh water. Picnic tables.

From Sobreira Formosa, head N along the ,, EN233 to the village centre, then follow signs to the river beach. 3 mins, 39.7894, -7.8385 W1T 8 RIBEIRA DO ALVITO Olive groves and a deep swim by a small waterfall just outside Alvito da Beira. Walk straight down from the village. ,, 1 min, 39.8242, -7.7984 W1sq

waterfalls & skinny dips 9 FONTE DO PEGO A man-made but gorgeous waterfall cascades into a rock pool. Follow a path up to see rocks teeming with fossils like a mass of eels. They are trace fossils, known locally as ‘painted snakes’ and thought to be 490 million years old. From Penha Garcia follow signs for Praia ,, Fluvial de Pego. Park on the cobbled street and walk down the hill, L at the houses and along the river. 5 mins, 40.0438, -7.0143 1=nq 10 RIO OCREZA Pass the deserted watermill and the smoky

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XX 10 From Bugios take M546 S for 2km, turn R ,, down the dirt track before the bridge crosses the Ocreza. 2 mins, 39.7324, -7.7171 1h

XX 15 greenish-yellow water widens and deepens. Tall grasses run down along the river banks until a large smooth stone allows for a jumping entrance. Secluded and perfect for a skinny-dip. Along the N233 heading towards Taberna ,, Seca. Just after the bridge over the River Ocreza park and take the path on the upstream side. 5 mins, 39.8418, -7.5923 1hDT 11 MEANDROS DO RIO OCREZA A wild place for a dip in the Ocreza, surrounded by wooded hills.

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12 RIO ERGES Following the border with Spain for most of its journey, this is one of Portugal’s wildest rivers. The granite, limestone and schist rock has been reworked by the eddying river into strange formations. Eagles, vultures and storks nest in the ravines. The river is cool and slow between Salvaterra and Segura. A 10km signed walking trail along the river, discovering old mines, begins/ends here. Park in Segura and follow the red/yellow ,, walking signs from the Igreja da Misericórdia (39.8251, -6.9772) to the river and upstream. 30 mins, 39.8250, -6.9652 zh1nD

mountain villages 13 ÁLVARO A tiny slate-built hillside village overlooking the River Zêzere. It has a complicated religious history: there are 15 temples here, with a rich and strange collection of sacred art. A 7km signed and circular walking trail begins at Igreja Matriz de São Tiago, passing

chapels, rivers, streams and olive groves. From Pampilhosa da Serra take the N344 ,, then N351 S for 17km in total until Álvaro. 2 hrs, 39.9758, -7.9662 zeh 14 PEDREIRA VILLAGE A cluster of schist houses on the banks of the river. Once a major centre for flour milling, now empty; the river still runs under the old bridge. From Cunqueiros take the EM1309-1 then ,, N351 S for 3km, turn L at signs for Pedreira. 2 mins, 39.7902, -7.8546 eh 15 IDANHA-A-VELHA This small village on the banks of the Pônsul river was built in the 1st century BC under Emperor Augustus, when its name was Civitas Igaedinorum. It was conquered by Visigoths in the 6th century, later becoming an important Episcopal seat. This was once a busy town along an important trade route between Coimbra and Mérida. Now its quiet cobbled streets, storks nesting in ancient monastery towers and a heavy wide Roman bridge lend charm to a village marooned by fields. There is a collection of 86 Roman epigraphs, the largest in Europe, exhibited in the Museu Epigráfico Egitaniense (near the

XX 19 Lagar de Varas olive oil press, see 18). From Penamacor take the N332 S for 23km. ,, Park outside and walk in. 5 mins, 39.9960, -7.1444 eQs 16 SARZEDAS WALKING TRAIL A 14km signed, circular route which begins in the quaint schist village of Sarzedas and follows its old Roman pavement out into cork oak woodland, passing old wolfram mines. The walk begins at the Capela de Santo ,, António. From Castelo Branco take the N233 W for 20km until Sarzedas. 3.5 hrs, 39.8502, -7.6848 zhe 17 MONSANTO A village like no other: tiny houses built among great boulders which serve as roofs and walls. Ruins, trails and strange rocks characterise the hill above. A Templar castle is reached along a path winding up the mountain from the village. It crowns the mountain with its battlements and if you clamber up its walls you can enjoy earth-shattering views across the Raiana plains and out to Spain. From Monsanto take the Pé Calvo track ,, uphill to the castle. Information boards in town. 10 mins, 40.0363, -7.1133 h6zQe*

18 LAGAR DE VARAS, IDANHA-A-VELHA Great massy oaks are used as levers in this once donkey-powered traditional olive press. See Idanha-a-Velha. Head to the cathedral. ,, 5 mins, 39.9958, -7.1446 e

hiking trails 19 BOULDERS WALKING TRAIL, MONSANTO Marvel at the ancient boulders and tors scattered over Monsanto’s hills along this 4.5km circular walking trail. The way leads under the Joined Rocks, passes the ruined medieval chapel and reaches the Templar castle with views across to Spain. Begins/ends opposite the Posto do Turismo ,, Monsanto. See also 17. 1.5 hrs, 40.0392, -7.1142 zh6Q8 20 ROTA DOS FÓSSEIS, PENHA GARCIA See the 600-million-year-old snaking fossils in the rocks of Penha Garcia, dip into the cool Pônsul river, see the old traditional water mills and the silent, silver reservoir, all along this 3km circular walking trail. Begins/ends at Largo do Chão da Igreja, ,, Penha Garcia. 1 hr, 40.0417, -7.0184 znsh1

XX 17 21 PORTAS DE ALMOURÃO Jagged quartzite rocks fall away into the Ocreza river forming what looks like two doors opening to let the river in. A nesting place for vultures. The Grifo walking trail passes here (see 22 below). Can be seen from the road leading E from ,, Foz do Cobrão or follow the first part of the Grifo walking trail (see 22). 20 mins, 39.7349, -7.7488 nhD 22 VOO DO GRIFO WALKING TRAIL See the old water mills along the meandering

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Ocreza river, 500 million-year-old geological wonders from an ancient ocean and the Portas do Almourão, all along this 11km circular walking trail. Begins/ends at the Igreja da Foz do Cobrão. ,, 4 hrs, 39.7319, -7.7593 1nDhz 23 PATHS OF ENCHANTMENTS AND HIDDEN CORNERS This 11km circular walk begins in Alvito da Beira river beach (see 8). It’s an ancient wooded path which links the old schist villages of the valley; it follows the river and passes abandoned water mills, with various spots for a dip along the way. The walk’s magical name may be due to a legendary sack of gold buried in an ox-skin somewhere between Pereiro and Nogueira villages. Begins at Alvito da Beira river beach (see 8). ,, 3 hrs, 39.8242, -7.7984 z1se

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wildlife wonders

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24 SERRA DA MALCATA This nature reserve covering over 16,000 hectares of shale hills and wild woodland is shot through with the rivers Meimoa, Côa and Bezágueda. It was created to preserve the Iberian lynx. You might catch a glimpse of these rare feline creatures hunting for hares. It’s more likely, though, that you’ll see black vultures. There is a 9km, circular walking trail signed from the Meimoa reservoir. Begin/end at the N332 as it meets the ,, Meimoa reservoir from S. 2 hrs, 40.2556, -7.1168 z1hD4

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25 ROTA DOS ABUTRES, SALVATERRA DO EXTREMO Discover the wild Raiano landscape on this 10km signed, circular walking route. Look out for vultures, eagles and black storks. There is a bird hide en route with views out to Spanish border castles before the trail dips down to the wild River Erges. Begins and ends at Igreja Matriz Salvaterra ,, do Extremo. 4 hrs, 39.8836, -6.9145 z1hD

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local food 26 RESTAURANTE PETISCOS & GRANITOS, MONSANTO A restaurant hidden under enormous granite boulders. The doorway is small and squat, as though shortened under the great stone weight. Inside João will cook you the region’s typical migas, fried bread with garlic, herbs and fish or peixe de água doce, mountain

26 XX

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river catch. For pudding there’s papas de carolo, a regional variation on sweet rice. Rua da Pracinha 16, Monsanto, 6060-087 ,, Idanha-a-Nova +351 277 314 029 40.0385, -7.1149 esY 27 CAFÉ RESTAURANTE DA AMOREIRA, IDANHA-A-VELHA Named after the mulberry tree in the town square, this is the social hub of sleepy Idanha-a-Velha. Traditional and hearty dishes are served in its dark bar. Rua da Amoreira, Idanha-a-Velha, 6060,, 041 Castelo Branco +351 277 914 180 39.9965, -7.1437 sY 28 O FORNUM DU VIRIATO, MONSANTO A cosy venue wedged in between the granite stones of Monsanto (see 17) where you can enjoy the views out over the wild hillside with a glass of wine and a choice of cheeses, hams, sausages, jams, honeys and breads as well as meads. The place is a tribute to its Lusitanian or Celtic heritage, and has occasional Celtic music nights with Portuguese bagpipes and adufe drums. R. do Castelo 19, 6060-091 Monsanto ,, +351 277 314 009, Tavernalusitana.com 40.0374, -7.1144 eQYsg 29 RESTAURANTE VALE MOURÃO A restaurant with bare stone walls and views over the Ocreza river. Try the cabrita à moda da aldeia or fish from the river. There are regional Mourão dishes and wines, and they do a mean pudim de ovos com suspiro. R. da Capela 13, Foz do Cobrão +351 272 ,, 543 012, Valemourao.blogspot.pt 39.7317, -7.7594 sYe 30 FESTA DE MIGAS, SEGURA A festival to celebrate the local dish migas de peixe – a delicious recipe of fried bread with oils, herbs, garlic and river fish, of which there are hundreds of variations. Sometimes there are donkey parades. Mid June. In the village square in Segura. ,, 39.8265, -6.9780 esY 31 RESTAURANTE O RATO, ALFRÍVIDA This is the place to try migas de peixe – fish migas. It’s a simple restaurant, popular with locals. Try the wild boar – javali de caldeirada and they make tijelada for pudding. From Retaxo take the EM533 S for 7km into ,, Alfrívida and it’s on your R. 6030-051 Perais +351 272 989 388 39.7188, -7.5369 sY

32 RESTAURANTE BEM-ME-QUER An artisan cuisine inspired by the flavours of regional ingredients in this tiny schist village. The dishes are healthy, with the inclusion of vegetarian and raw-food recipes. There is a great selection of Portuguese wines. Rural guesthouses available but restaurant is also open to non-residents. Book12 ahead: by appointment only. 17 ,, Rua da Bica, Martim Branco, 6000-003 Viseu Almaceda +351 968 887 857,Viseu Xistosentido.pt 8 14 39.9458, -7.6258 sYeg

34 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO DO FREIXIAL A campsite on the banks of the River Bazágueda with beautiful shady trees, a children’s playground, views out to distant blue mountains and a river beach. It’s nearby the Serra da Malcata Natural Park and feels very in tune with nature. Ribeira da Baságueda - Sitio do Freixial, ,, 6090 Penamacor +351 277 385 529, Cm-penamacor.pt 40.1307, -7.0743 sq1d

36 CASA DA TIA PIEDADE, MONSANTO A cosy stone cottage in the heart of Monsanto with beautiful mountain views. Sleeps five. R. da Azinheira 21, 6060-091 Monsanto ,, +351 966 910 599, Casadatiapiedade.com 40.0390, -7.1133 ehqsg

37 CASA DO FORNO, SALVATERRA DO EXTREMO Simple guest rooms with a garden and 19 pool in a border village. Dry stone walls and cobbled lanes run down to dusty olive groves 35 QUINTA DA BAZÁGUEDA and the wild river Erges. There are a number 2 15 Mangualde This is a very isolated farm in the heart of of walks nearby and views out to the ruined 19 20 the Serra da Malcata mountains, with pigs, Spanish border castle of Peñafiel. 16 33 TAVERNA LUSITANA, MONSANTO 13 chickens, turkeys, geese, ducks and dogs. 22 Rua de S. João, 6060-501 Salvaterra do , , Nelas A couple of cosy B&B ensuite rooms hidden Fernando, Marta and Daniel keep the ancient Extremo +351 277 455 021 Guarda Guarda Canas de Senhorim above the tavern. A tribute to the wild hills traditions alive with their natural building Casadoforno.com.pt Lusitanian heritage, even the biscuits they and traditional life in the 16th century 6 39.8819, -6.9135 sgh 23 make are printed with the Celtic swirl from houses. Simple accommodation and meals Sobral in Idanha-a-Velha. a granite stele found Oliveira provided in the rustic house or caravan in do Conde Currelos exchange for farm help for a few weeks. MortáguaIncredible views. 27 Santa Comba Dão 22 See Fornum du Viriato (28) Quinta da Bazágueda, 6090 Penamacor ,, ,20 , 33 21 2 394 32 3 875 14 +351 277 40.0377, -7.1144 sYg6eQ 9 25 40.1912, -7.0896 ehgs 4 1

rustic retreats

3 46

p131

9 38 7 47

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p131

18 5 12

p111

Covilha

12 29 36

25 21

Arganil

44 46 43

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42 31 2

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p139

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14 7

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ribatejo Our perfect weekend ,,Sail out to the mysterious Almourol castle, its marooned turrets reflected in the River Tejo ,,Giggle as enormous tropical butterflies alight on your skin at the Butterfly House in Santa Margarida ,,Stroke the noses of the ancient breed of Sorraia horses kept semi-wild at AlpiarĂ§a ,,Cheer the horsemen as they lead the cattleblessing of Riachos ,,Dance late into the night to traditional pimba music at Pereiro ,,Dive down into the cool, sweet water of Castelo de Bode reservoir ,,Swirl a glass of dry red wine from Cartaxo ,,Feel the horsesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; hooves thunder and kick up the sand at Colete Encarnado, Vila Franca da Xira ,,Jump over the waterfall at the hidden pool, Pego da Rainha ,,Watch for hoopoes - or poupa - darting from their nests at Reserva Boquilobo ,,Feast on ensopado de enguias at Valada, a rich stew made from eels caught in the Tejo

Ribatejo is a beautiful region running from Lisbon along the north side of the River Tejo – the Tagus – until it is joined by the winding River Ocreza. Beyond this lie the wild hills of Castelo Branco and, further still, Spain. This is a land of low-lying fields of maize or tomato, growing along the Tejo. In winter the Tejo floods its banks; in spring, eels swim upstream to mate; and in summer, arid heat hangs over cowboys and bullfights. Even in summer, as the air boils and the sun beats down, you’re never too far from a refreshing plunge into a river. Villages appear lethargic in the heat, life slows to a rhythmic pace. Despite this, the small-scale farms, vineyards and stables still achieve great renown. Golegã is known as the ‘capital of the horse’, and Cartaxo, the ‘capital of wine’. Add to this their renowned bullfights and it’s a potent mix.

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During the summertime festas, this is a land of raised pulses. In Golegã, Riachos and Vila Franca de Xira, cobblestones are buried beneath sand as horsemen and women saunter in and charge back to dusty bullfights and feats of daring. In Golegã, during the annual horse fair, horses are ridden into bars, even discotheques. The wild invades the town. But not all festas are so frenzied: in Pereiro the cobbles are strewn with flowers and hung with garlands one year in the making. The whole village celebrates its saint and home-comings for three days, with wines, dancing, street food and open doors.

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River beaches line the banks of the steady, wide Tejo, offering dips in waters pleasantly cool, but significantly warmer than the sea. At Ortiga you can take a canoe and explore the wooded green river banks opposite. Or travel north to the reservoir at Castelo de Bode filled by the Zêzere river, pine-covered hills sloping down to meet its banks. Nearby, the Ocreza river valley holds some of the world’s most ancient rock carvings, some 20,000 years old.

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In the evening, remind yourself you are in one of Portugal’s oldest winegrowing regions and relax with a glass of the DOC do Tejo from Cartaxo. If you are there in springtime, when the eels are in season, try ensopado de enguias, slow-cooked rice with eels in broth or açorda de sável made with the fatty local fish. These unique flavours will immerse you in the place.

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water adventures 1 RIVER PARK, VALADA Valada is a small village on the banks of the Tejo. The path to Santiago de Compostela passes by. Valada’s high flood walls testify to past winters when the Tejo would burst its banks. While there is no longer such dramatic flooding, be wary of winter currents and stay within the buoyed area. In summer the water is surprisingly warm. Canoes for hire: +351 966 675 554. From Azambuja take N3-3 E into Valada. At ,, crossroads with N3-2 turn R, then L, and follow with flood wall on your R. At end of flood wall, turn R to the river and park. Walk along the river, downstream, past picnic area to the River Park. 4 mins, 39.0777, -8.7611 1Wkqs2 2 PRAIA FLUVIAL, ALVERANGEL The soft, sweet water of the Castelo de Bode reservoir is the main source of drinking water for Lisbon. You can walk down its banks and slip in under the calm surface. Emerge to watery views across to the opposite banks and pine-covered hills. From Castelo de Bode, take the N358 N for ,, 2.5km, turn R onto CM1117 and follow signs for Alverangel. At Alverangel follow brown

signs down to Praia Fluvial. 2 mins, 39.5477, -8.3078 1h6 3 PRAIA FLUVIAL DE CARVOEIRO A large stone-built pool. Pine woodland stretches away beyond the waterfall which fills the pool. High-sided but deep enough for a dive, the river water moves gently through but remains warm. Children’s river pool, barbecue grill and grassy banks. From Mação follow brown signs to Praia ,, Fluvial de Carvoeiro. 2 mins, 39.6301, -7.9232 Ws1qk 4 PRAIA FLUVIAL DE ORTIGA A sandy and popular river beach on the wooded banks of the Tejo. A floating pool allows for safe bathing if there are more extensive river currents but usually functions as a diving platform. Canoes for hire. From Mação follow brown signs to Praia ,, Fluvial Ortiga. 2 mins, 39.4829, -8.0019 skq21Wb 5 PRAIA FLUVIAL, OLHOS DE ÁGUA Winding, shallow river with shady trees. Very busy at weekends with family picnics but deserted during the week.

From Alcanena take N361; at 2nd ,, roundabout follow signs for Amiais de Baixo; stay on this road until after the river, then follow signs to Praia Fluvial/Olhos. 1 min, 39.4453, -8.7116 W1kqs 6 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO ALAMAL Chase the ducks across this sandy river beach and follow them into the water. The Tejo here is slow-flowing and wide, with a roped-off swimming area. Belver Castle rises imperiously from the wooded hills above. From Gavião follow signs for Praia Fluvial ,, Alamal. 2 mins, 39.4880, -7.9675 k1edzWq 7 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO PENEDO FURADO A popular river beach with sparkling clear water and several waterfalls filling the pool. Smooth rocks slope down to the edge and woodland surrounds it. Nearby is the Penedo Furado rock. Just beneath this outcrop is a fossil, the ‘Bicha Pintada’, thought to be 480 million years old. From here you can see over the wooded hills to the Castelo de Bode reservoir. Myths, tales and legends abound. From Brêscovo take the road N for 2 km and ,, turn left at brown signs for Penedo Furado. 2 mins, 39.6257, -8.1622 z1n=k

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XX 11 8 PARQUE NÁUTICO DE ALDEIA DO MATO This is a very tranquil place for an early evening dip in the calm waters of Castelo de Bode reservoir surrounded by pine forests. From Aldeia do Mato follow brown signs for ,, Praia Fluvial. 2 mins, 39.5454, -8.2774 h16 9 PEGO DA RAINHA An idyllic oasis hidden within the parched and dramatic granite massif of the Vale do Ocreza, which is rich in rock engravings. Shaded by trees, and protected by an enormous rocky outcrop, where eagles and vultures nest. The blue pool is deep enough for a plunge from the top of a low waterfall. From Zimbreira follow brown signs to Pego ,, da Rianha. Turn down the dirt track, park near the information board and walk 1km down this mountain track (difficult road). 15 mins, 39.5755, -7.8284 1zhT=

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10 ALDEIA PATACÃO This old fishing village on the banks of the Tejo, now fallen into disrepair, testifies to the ancient fishing culture along this river. You can still see wooden houses built on stilts to survive the winter floods. A little further on is a river beach, unguarded.

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From Alpiarça take the road N to Q.ta da ,, Lagualva de Cima and follow to the river bank. 5 mins, 39.2981, -8.5803 1e

romantic castles 11 CASTELO DE ALMOUROL A Knights Templar castle rising from its island on the Tejo. There are as many variations on its legends as waves lapping its shores. Take the small guide boat out to explore. From Tancos follow signs to the castle. ,, Boats leave every 30 mins. 2 mins, 39.4621, -8.3838 e2kQ“ 12 CASTELO DE ALCANEDE A picturesque castle on a hill with beautiful views over wild hills. It’s thought to have prehistoric foundations, later to become Roman and then Moorish. It’s in great condition with old carvings, passageways and crests to discover. From Alcanede follow brown signs up the hill. ,, 10 mins, 39.4172, -8.8213 eh6z

festas & fairs 13 FESTA DO COLETE ENCARNADO The name translates as the party of the ‘red

XX 13 waistcoast’ with overtones of ‘incarnate’ or ‘made flesh’. Being one of the biggest bullfights in Ribatejo, the name is apt. The entire town becomes simultaneously a party and a bullring. There is also a procession with costumed riders cantering into town. Later on, revellers with beer and bifanas (sandwiches of slow-cooked pork) cover the sandy road but at any point there can be a shout and a scattering of people to the sides as an enraged bull invades the party. Caution needed. Early July. Parking limited. Take train to Vila Franca de ,, Xira from Lisbon. The party is in the whole town. 2 mins, 38.9549, -8.9871 sYeb

15 GOLEGÃ NATIONAL HORSE FAIR Equestrian culture is ingrained into the life of Golegã and this municipality has some of Portugal’s most famous stud farms. This ten-day-long festival every November transforms the town into an even more lively horsey hub. All day and all night the streets are packed with horses – they are everywhere, even in the bars and discos. Narrow streets are filled with stands; try the regional drinks Ginga, Agua-Pé and Abafado, or relax with a glass of wine and watch the spectacle in the square. Main square, Largo do Marquês de Pombal. ,, 2 mins, 39.4022, -8.4825 sxK

14 FESTA DA BÊNÇÃO DO GADO, RIACHOS A joyful several-days-long festival in the small town of Riachos. The festival centres around the ‘blessing of the cattle’ where horses and local horsemen – naturally – lead in the cattle to be blessed. There is also a separate passeio equestre, horse parade, with a party, and a passeio de pasteleiras, bakers on bikes. Artisan stalls, crafts, folklore and food. Last week of July. Riachos, Torres Novas. Accessible by train ,, from Lisbon to Riachos/Torres Novas/Golegã. 2 mins, 39.4326, -8.5051 sbW

16 FESTAS DO PEREIRO The small town of Pereiro is bedecked with garlands of flowers, which hang over the streets from wall to wall. For the main procession of Our Lady of Health, the streets are strewn with flowers and herbs. There is dancing to pimba, the traditional happy music, late into the night with bifanas, pregos and endless minis, mini-beers, served till dawn. Last weekend of August. From Mação take N244 N for 4km. Park ,, outside and walk in. 30 mins, 39.5875, -8.0130 sY8

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17 FESTA DA NOSSA SENHORA DA BOA VIAGEM, CONSTÂNCIA The dangers of navigation have always attached themselves to the seafarers and fishermen who lived upriver at Constância. For centuries, Easter Monday has seen the blessing of the boats. Hundreds of traditional fishing boats, colourfully festooned, sail into the harbour for a blessing. Their ceremonial setting sail is a dramatic sight. They return, of course, for a lively party to celebrate their fortune and full nets. Train from Lisbon; the nearest station is ,, Praia do Ribatejo, downstream along the Tejo. 30 mins, 39.4751, -8.3377 bsg1

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walks & wildlife 18 TRILHO DAS BUFAREIRAS This is a signed 9km linear walking route from Vila de Rei to Penedo Furado river beach. It passes panoramic views, mystical rocks, ancient fossils and waterfalls. Begins at the pelourinho, pillory, of Vila de Rei. ,, 1.5 hrs, 39.6735, -8.14661 =1z

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19 RESERVA NATURAL DO PAUL DO BOQUILOBO An inland wetland formed by the Tejo and Almonda rivers; sheltered Montado cork and long dry grasses intersperse the wetlands. There is a signed PR trail here and a couple of bird hides. In summer you might glimpse nesting herons: this is one of their most important nesting sites in Portugal. There are storks and cockatoo’d hoopoes here too. Well signed from Riachos/Torres train station ,, (1st L out of station). Or drive from Azinhaga. Walking trail signed from information centre. 45 mins, 39.4088, -8.5267 Dzh

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20 RESERVA NATURAL DO CAVALO DO SORRAIA, ALPIARÇA 40ha dedicated to the protection of the sorraia horse in Alpiarça – an ancient breed of Iberian horse – rediscovered in 1920, and thought to be the ancestor of the lusitano and Spanish Andalusian horse. There are possibly fewer than 200 of these horses worldwide. Their arched necks and convex noses appear in rock drawings in Granada 20,000 years old. See some of these horses here semi-wild as you explore the lakes and woodland. A good restaurant too. From Alpiarça take N118 S until the ,, roundabout, take 2nd exit signed P. Natural and follow brown signs. Rua José Relvas 374, 2090 Alpiarça +351 927 414 247, Cm-alpiarca.pt 1 hr, 39.2421, -8.5760 s4xz

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21 BUTTERFLY HOUSE AT PARQUE AMBIENTAL DE SANTA MARGARIDA Many-hued tropical butterflies will land on you at this borboletário. Do not underestimate how large a butterfly can be. Explore the pond, fish, flora and wildlife too. Follow signs for Parque Ambiental in Santa ,, Margarida. 15 mins, 39.4462, -8.3180 z4q 22 EVOA, TEJO ESTUARY BIRDWATCHING The Tejo estuary is the largest wetland area in Portugal and is considered one of the most important in Europe due to the 120,000 migratory birds that rest here. At the Evoa conservation centre there are 5km of walking trails, three lagoons, four bird hides, viewing points and daily guided tours. From Vila Franca de Xira take the N10 over ,, the Tejo and after 3km follow signs R. Evoa.pt 2 mins, 38.8498, -8.9735 D“sz

food & wine 23 RESTAURANTE CASA DAS ENGUIAS Tucked just behind Valada’s old flood wall, beyond the dark café entrance is a sun-trap patio and then a cavernous restaurant. If you want to try the region’s speciality – the eels that swim upriver to mate in early summer – then this is the place. The owner and head chef, ‘O Toscano’, has won the district’s Gold Award for his enguias. If you’re not up for eels, Toscano’s peru (turkey) steaks with special molho are wonderful. The Cartaxo wine here is good. Rua Primeiro de Maio 27, 2070-516 Valada ,, +351 243 749 230 39.0806, -8.7605 sY 24 O SABOR DA PEDRA, ALVERANGEL A luxuriously rural place to try the local fish dishes and wines. Sunlight pours in through wide open windows with views out over the deep blue Castelo de Bode reservoir. An elegant place utterly in harmony with the surrounding nature, taking delight in its flavours and harvest. There are log fires in winter and hundreds of wines to taste or drop in to buy. 3km S of Alverangel centre towards the ,, reservoir. Rua do Rio 5, Alverangel, 2300152 São Pedro de Tomar +351 249 371 750, Osabordapedra.com 39.5486, -8.3089 sYg6 25 SANTARÉM GASTRONOMIC FESTIVAL For the last couple of weeks of October the cobbled streets of Santarém are decked

28 ADEGA COOPERATIVA DE ALCANHÕES A new winery but very old wine. The wine from this region was mentioned in the 15th century Chronicles of Don Fernando: the court enjoyed “dancing... wine and fruit of Dalcanhãaes …”. Their DOC do Tejo can be purchased here. 2000-371 Alcanhões +351 243 429 151, ,, Adegaalcanhoes.pt 39.2959, -8.6583 Y Barcouço

with tables heaving under regional cooking, smoked meats, cheeses and wines. Ancient recipes and their rich flavours are rekindled and brought to life with music and cheer. Casa do Campino, Santarém +351 243 300 ,, 900, Festivalnacionaldegastronomia.pt 39.2296, -8.6909 esYg 26 PENEDAS BAR, MALHOU A hidden restaurant outside Malhou, not too promising from outside but the food is sublime. Sit in the back garden, with a roaming peacock, and try the cheeses, wines and moelas, marinated gizzards. From Malhou take the long straight road W ,, towards Amiais de Baixo. Head practically out of town but before you hit the farms take a tiny road on R signed Penedas Bar. Rua Miguel Bombarda, 2380 Malhou +351 249 881 840 39.4273, -8.6924 sY

30 O PÁTIO DO JUDEO, VALVERDE Three self-catered apartments in a 19th century house just within the Serra de Aire e Candeeiros Natural Park. Rua Principal EN362, Valverde, 2025-201 ,, Alcanede +351 243 400 012, Opatiodojudeu.pt 39.4600, -8.8574 gh

wilder campsites

rural retreats

27 ADEGA COOPERATIVA DO CARTAXO You can drop in to this friendly winery and21 buy the DOC do Tejo and regional wines at remarkably reasonable prices. Wine-tastings if you book ahead. On N365-2 W of Cartaxo centre. 2070-220 ,, Cartaxo +351 243 770 987, Adegacartaxo.pt 39.1553, -8.8095 Y

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44 4643 DE 31 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO DE CASTELO 8 5 937 37 BODE, MARTINCHEL 38 7 47 13 14 12 Coimbra Coimbra Fall asleep to waters gently at the Arganillapping 25 29 36 21 29 MORGADO LUSITANO banks of the Castelo de Bode reservoir. This 4119campsite near several hiking A marvellous escape for those seeking is a peaceful 18 28 34available. 16 45 23 11 39 an equestrian holiday with views over the trails. Bungalows 17 35 15 13 27 42 Tejo, pine woodland, orchards and the 18th 2200-638 Martinchel +351 241 849 244, 31 32 2 40 , , Soure Podentes century manor, and only 15 mins from Lisbon 26 Fcmportugal.com 1 13 airport. The estate was built by the Count Penela of 39.5402, -8.3191 gszd Pampilhosa da Serra 20 Ribeira Grande after the Great Earthquake 2210 36 3 of 1755. Now they train the finest lusitano 32 ECO PARQUE 20 5 DE ALVERANGEL 4 horses in dressage. Book an intensive week’s 13 camping park A beautiful tiered and grassy 24 riding lessons or simply stay in the estate 4 Pedrógão Grande pine trees by the CasteloOleiros de Bode 2 19 1 under 33rural paradise. 32 and enjoy their cuisine and reservoir. There is a little gate to a private 28 Quinta Da Portela, Cabeço Da Rosa, ,, jetty for a dip in the clear, sweet water. Alverca do Ribatejo +351 219 936 520, 3 Rua do Rio 5, Alverangel, 2300-152 27 26 ,, 16 Morgadolusitano.pt Memória São Pedro de Tomar +351 249 371 7508 Leiria Leiria 38.9046, -9.0702 23 s*xYzgeFreixianda 39.5487, -8.3089 6 5 Be 147 sgd1qYD Urqueira

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peniche & berlengas Our perfect weekend ,,Bounce over the high seas in a fishing boat to the mysterious island of Berlenga ,,Feast on fresh crab overlooking the seasprayed Rochas da Consolação ,,Snorkel through clear water, silvery fishes and strange semi-precious rocks at Forte de São João ,,Let your thoughts soar over the horizon from wild sea caves ,,Bask in sun-soaked sand at Baleal ,,Surf the wild waves at Porto das Barcas ,,Meditate on the strange split cliffs at Cruz dos Remédios ,,Imagine the dinosaurs who once roamed the coast at Lourinhã ,,Bed down in the 17th century Forte de São João Baptista ,,Scramble up ancient fishermen paths as the tide surges around peninsular Papoa ,,Watch the sun set into sea-drenched splendour from the wild cliffs at Cabo Carvoeiro

The peninsula of Peniche, a hundred kilometres north of Lisbon, is famous for its waves. Surfers gather here year-round like pilgrims. At any point in the town you can glimpse the sea, and the great thing with Peniche is that if there are no waves on the one side of the peninsula then there will be on the other. As well as the wild Atlantic surf, it also has long sandy beaches, calm coves and limestone cliffs wrought with ravines, crevices and sea caverns worn by the plunging, sucking sea. The sea dominates everything.

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There is a ‘lost world’ feel to Peniche. Raúl Brandão, journalist and playwright, described the Nau dos Corvos – just off the tip of the peninsula – as “a great rock sunk three hundred metres deep – and perhaps the last remnant of Atlantis, rising up from the blue sea and dripping blue”. There are places on this peninsula which are timeless and elemental, whether you are getting in touch with the wild power of the waves or sitting in a smooth sea cave such as the Varanda de Pilatos. The small and enigmatic Berlenga island lies 12km off the coast. Every morning and evening, passenger boats laden with sacks of onions, potatoes, boxes of cakes and bread bounce over the waves, followed by flocks of screaming gulls. Green hills rise from the waves where seagulls nest everywhere, in grass, caves, beaches, pinnacles and eroded stacks. The question at the port as the boxes are unloaded is inevitably, “Have you been to Earth today?” And with the gulls wheeling and cawing overheard, it certainly feels far removed from the world beyond.

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The sea at Berlenga is far warmer than some of the more open Atlantic beaches on the mainland. Gentle and clear like sea-green stained glass, the water offers fantastic diving. An arched bridge zig-zags from the main island to the fortress of São João, built on a marooned rock. Underneath the fort is a shadowy cave but the water lapping inside is lit up by its quartz stone walls. It’s like swimming in a dark sapphire.

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Returning on the last boat, you’ll find that Peniche has no shortage of great seafood restaurants. Along the harbour there are dozens to discover. Our favourite has got to be Sol é Vida. Here you can eat the freshest crab and watch the fishermen below on the Rochas da Consolação, Rocks of Consolation, while sea spray bursts madly up. 158

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sea caves & strange rocks 1 VARANDA DE PILATOS, PENICHE A small thinking-place in a sea-carved stone chamber down a ladder in the cliff-side. Let your thoughts soar out across ocean views while sheltered from wild Atlantic winds. Large enough for one or two, depending on the size and scale of your thoughts. A moment N of Cabo Carvoeiro lighthouse: ,, walk up the main coastal road and look for the wooden plaque ‘Varanda de Pilatos’ before the Cruz dos Remedios. 3 mins, 39.3638, -9.4060 6h9 2 GRUTA DA FURNINHA Explore these natural sea caves worming out from the side of the Peniche cliffs. The sea and sky are framed by wind-pummelled stone mouths. Still used as fishermen’s caves, 19th century excavations revealed an exhaustive amount of ancient remains here: Neanderthal man had inhabited the caves for 20,000 years. From Peniche Fort head towards Cabo ,, Carvoeiro; take the most coastal road, pass the wooden plaque to Furnas and park nearby (before the steps at Cova de Dominique). Follow the path down a little way towards the

cliffs and caves. Take great care. 20 mins, 39.3564, -9.4013 hz69 3 ROCHAS DA CONSOLAÇÃO Great stepping stones down to the sea resembling the Giant’s Causeway. The stones are said to have healing powers and lying on these rocks while the wild waves crash around does restore some balance. Alternatively head over to the little bar and enjoy fresh crab and chilled wine (Sol é Vida, see 23). From Peniche take the IP6 out and turn R ,, at Casal da Vala. Continue on Rua Principal to Lugar da Estrada, then R to Avenida da Praia straight to the Praia das Rochas car park. 1 min, 39.3239, -9.3615 nsY

diving & wrecks 4 TROMBA DO ELEFANTE These rock formations on the southern tip of the small island of Berlenga resemble an elephant’s trunk, tromba. It’s a favourite spot with divers. The rocks meet the sand 15m underwater and you can see finned gurnards and red mullets. In the distance, you may see conger eels and octopus. Contact AcaSubOeste for diving lessons ,,

and equipment +351 918 393 444, Acuasuboeste.com. 2 hrs, 39.4082, -9.5125 9-1 5 THE PRIMAVERA WRECK An Italian steamer lost on 28 October 1902 after a fire on board, the Primavera is a relatively shallow wreck with a maximum depth of 22m. In addition to the wreck, which is fantastic, the cargo of marble blocks has created a unique underwater environment that attracts such creatures as octopus, lobsters and conger eels, and many gold sea bream. Contact AcaSubOeste for diving (see 4). ,, 2 hrs, 39.4074, -9.5038 9-1 6 COVA DO SONHO This is one of several mysterious caves lit up by aquamarine water along the coast of Berlenga island. Others include Flandres, Blue, Muxinga and Lagosteira Caves. Explore them with a day paddleboarding. Contact SUP Academy for day trips to ,, Berlenga from Peniche +351 962 374 793, Standupportugal.pt 2 hrs, 39.4109, -9.5109 91

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secret beaches 7 PRAINHA DA BERLENGA A tiny sandy beach sheltered by the dramatic slopes of Berlenga. The water is aquamarine and there are a couple of caves into which you can easily swim and explore. As the boat docks (see 21), follow the path ,, down into the first cove. 3 mins, 39.4150, -9.5075 1*D9 8 PRAIA DO PORTINHO DA AREIA SUL, PENICHE A locals’ beach. The water is much colder than in the bays but the sand, quiet and clear water make up for this. From Peniche fort walk through the sun,, bleached and sea-washed neighbourhood of Bairro do Visconde, along the coastal side to this small beach. 15 mins, 39.3543, -9.3886 o1

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9 PRAIA DO BALEAL (NORTE) Wander around Baleal until you find a small cove or secret beach. Waves come in gently here, lapping on the sand, having crashed in on larger rocks further out. Perfect for small children with buckets.

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Park up in Casais do Baleal and walk down ,, to the beaches. 5 mins, 39.3727, -9.3384 1oq 10 PRAIA DA ALMAGREIRA Great big red sand dunes to explore like Portugal’s mini Valley of the Kings. From Ferrel follow signs to Praia Almagreira ,, along the coastal tracks to the beach. 10 mins, 39.3792, -9.3138 oz1qn 11 PRAIA DO BALEAL (SUL) Between Praia do Baleal (Norte) and along the coast SW into Peniche the beach here is sandy and often far emptier. Walk S from Baleal along the coast until ,, quieter. 15 mins, 39.3638, -9.3462 oz1q 12 PRAIA DO PORTO DAS BARCAS A quiet sandy beach with some wild surf. If the winds are cold, snuggle down in the sand and let the sun warm you or bring a windbreaker. From Lourinhã head towards Atalaia de ,, Cima and follow ‘Praia’ signs. 2 mins, 39.2269, -9.3398 o1h

XX 10 13 PRAIA DE PAIMOGO An empty stretch of sandy beach guarded by a 17th century stronghold rising imperiously from the cliffs. In the early ‘90s about 100 dinosaur eggs were discovered here, some containing embryonic bones. Now the eggs can be found at the Lourinhã museum. Low tide reveals old fishing ponds, testimony to an activity now extinct. Still a popular place with anglers. From Lourinhã take the N247 towards the ,, coast. After Seixal pass the church and then L at signs to Hotel Dom Lourenço; take the first exit at the roundabout and continue on this road to the coast. 3 mins, 39.2852, -9.3372 o1 14 PRAIA DO ZIMBRAL A quieter stretch of sandy beach between Porto Dinheiro and Porto das Barcas. From Atalaia de Baixo take the road S ,, for 1km, turn R at the Boa Viagem sign and continue until beach. 2 mins, 39.2198, -9.3415 o1 15 PRAIA DE VALMITÃO A long stretch of sand bathed by crystalclear waters. It can be popular due to the healing properties of the water, associated

with its high iodine content. Follow signs for 1km from Ribamar. ,, 2 mins, 39.2030, -9.3459 1k

dinosaurs & dunes 16 MUSEU DA LOURINHÃ See treasure found along these cliffs: huge razor-edged dinosaur teeth, skulls, dinosaur eggs and even a fossilised dinosaur nest at this lively little museum. “The museum gives to Lourinhã not only the fossils but their identity,” says local palaeontologist Octavio Mateus. “People see in dinosaurs part of themselves.” The centre is colourful and imaginative, perfect for engaging children. Rua João Luis de Moura 95, 2530-158 ,, Lourinhã +351 261 414 003, Museulourinha.org

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1 min, 39.2419, -9.3132 qnQ“ 17 ROTA DOS DINOSSAUROS, LOURINHÃ The small town of Lourinhã is known as the ‘land of the dinosaurs’ due to the excavation of teeth the size of daggers, nests of fossilised dinosaur eggs and skulls of enormous wild beasts that once roamed this coast. See this wild coast along a 10km signed Rota dos Dinossauros.

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XX 18 Starts next to the Lourinhã museum and ,, finishes at Paimogo fort. 1.5 hrs, 39.2420, -9.3128 zn1

clifftop highs 18 PAPOA A small peninsula off the Peniche peninsula. The rocks jut up to form a disintegrating battlement, along which you can carefully tread its sandy spine and spread your arms like a seagull to catch the wind. N side of Peniche, signed off N114. ,, 1 min, 39.3745, -9.3780 6hn

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19 CABO CARVOEIRO A spot once contested as being the ‘most westerly tip of Europe’, until this title was given to Cabo da Roca. Wild winds rip and roar up the craggy cliffs and the views out across to the mystical island of Berlenga are stunning. Waves crash on rocks beneath. Inevitably there will be a wily fisherman on the rocks below, and probably therefore a bit further west than you. From Peniche fort take the Estrada Marginal ,, Sul W and follow signs to Cabo Carvoeiro. 2 mins, 39.3592, -9.4087 sY6

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20 CRUZ DOS REMÉDIOS, PENICHE PENINSULA The cliffs are split into surreal shapes as though after the convulsions of an earthquake. Their layers of limestone form giant towers teetering over the slap and pull of the sea sucking beneath. Crawl up, and stick your head over the edge to breathe in the darkness between the rocks: crypts, old libraries, cellars, mould and death. From Cabo Carvoeiro walk 300m N along ,, the coastal road. Cruz dos Remédios is signed. 5 mins, 39.3626, -9.4067 wv9

wild islands 21 BERLENGAS ARCHIPELAGO The Berlengas archipelago is composed of three islands, the largest of which is Berlenga at 1.5km long. Pink rock and green grass slope down to the emerald water. Hundreds of seagulls wheel and caw overhead; the whole island is their home and is richly perfumed by damp feathers and guano. Look out for loud chicks nesting in the grass and prepare to be pelted if you stray from the path. There are a couple of beautiful small beaches here for a swim, and caves can be reached by swimming or kayak.

XX 22 There is one good but expensive restaurant and a hut selling coffee and bola de berlin. Bring cash or a picnic to the island and leave it clean. For diving call Berlenga Sub +351 965 107 728. Boats leave every morning and evening ,, from Peniche harbour: call Viamar +351 262 785 646. 1 day, 39.4149, -9.5075 o91hz6s“ 22 FORTE DE SÃO JOÃO BAPTISTA The 17th century fortress of São João is built on monastic remains on an island off Berlanga. It can be reached by a bridge zigzagging out over rocks and lapping waves, or by a short swim. If you choose the latter, be aware of small boats chugging into caves and bring a snorkel: the water is surprisingly warm with semi-precious rocks and caves to explore, and colourful fish. For diving contact Berlenga Sub: +351 965 107 728 From Peniche take the boat to Berlenga ,, (see 21) and follow the walkway up and into the island. Eventually you will see the fort. 15 mins, 39.4113, -9.5101 e1n9-

fish & wine 23 SNACK BAR SOL É VIDA, CONSOLAÇÃO ‘Sun and Life’ offered on these Rocks of Consolation. Great fish, very fresh crab. Eat out on the veranda with the salt wind in your hair. Watch fishermen on the rocks below while you console yourself with dressed crab and a sparkling dry white. Largo Nossa Sra. da Consolação 9 ,, +351 963 708 840 39.3239, -9.3616 sY6 24 RESTAURANTE O BACALHAU A sign in the window of this unassuming restaurant offers a “walk on the wild side”. Although by all outward appearances shut, walk on in and discover their vine-decked patio garden, grilled fish and pub tables. Try their fried jaquinzinhos and tomato rice. Very cheap. Rua Dom Luís de Atayde 114, 2520-408 ,, Peniche +351 914 324 011 39.3593, -9.3794 sY 25 BAR SÃO PEDRO Seashells decorate the walls in this happy colourful little cervejaria and restaurant. Set back from the main parade of seafood

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haunts. Simple great local dishes. Rua José Estêvão 97, 2520-467 Peniche ,, +351 262789658 39.3553, -9.3793 sY 26 RESTAURANTE DO PARQUE If you are in Peniche, the dish to try is caldeirada. A rich fish stew made in a large pot for sharing, it usually has big prawns, octopus, monkfish, conger eels, dogfish, sea bass and skate. It’s excellent here. These are hundreds of fresh fish to see and choose; they will grill and fry to local recipes. An absolute haven for fish lovers. Parque do Baluarte, Av. 25 de Abril, ,, 2520-202 Peniche +351 262 789 251, Restaurantedoparqu.wix.com 39.3641, -9.3783 sY

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27 RESTAURANTE MARISQUEIRA DOS CORTIÇAIS A restaurant right by the sea with a beautiful view for sunset. They make excellent caldeirada here. Other specialities include lagosta suada, lobster cooked in a clay pot with parsley, bay leaves and wine. Porto D′Areia Sul, 2520-244 Peniche ,, +351 262 787 262, Doscorticais.com 39.3538, -9.3868 sY6

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28 MERCADO MUNICIPAL DE PENICHE A noisy and colourful market, popular with locals, with heaps of mouthwatering seasonal fruit and vegetables, fresh fish, local meats, regional cheeses, breads and local cakes. Open daily, closed Mondays. Arts & crafts fair every second weekend. R. António Conceição Bento 23A, ,, 2520-294, Peniche 39.3603, -9.3800 s

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wilder campsites 29 CAMPING BERLENGAS Berlenga is a protected island and so, of course, camping numbers are limited. However, staying on this wild island is still possible and a magical experience. Fall asleep to the slap and the pull of the sea and wake up to the most spectacular dawns. Camping reservations can be made at the ,, Peniche Touristic Point +351 262 789 571, Turismo@cm-peniche.pt 39.4148, -9.5063 d*W1

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30 PENICHE PRAIA CAMPING A camping field on the Peniche clifftops by the Remédios rocks. There are pretty

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bungalows to choose from and the campsite is sheltered. A nice bar, with snacks, and a pool. Estr. Marginal Norte, 2520-605 Peniche ,, +351 262 783 460, Penichepraia.pt 39.3692, -9.3922 hgsd

wild havens 31 FORTE DE SÃO JOÃO BAPTISTA, BERLENGA You can stay in this 17th century fortress on the tiny island. Monks used to provide shelter here for seafaring people. The rooms have views across the sea and its inherent solitude still holds an ascetic appeal. There is, however, a communal kitchen and bar in the courtyard. Reservations through the Associação ,, Amigos das Berlengas +351 912 631 426, Berlengareservasforte@gmail.com 39.4113, -9.5101 ho1esY 32 CASA DO CASTELO, PENICHE A luxurious guesthouse transformed in the 19th century from the old walls of a Moorish castle. Rich history meets you at every step as you explore its corridors with stained glass windows, cornices and balustrades. Surrounded by a beautiful garden and the green hills inland from Peniche. Estr. Naçional 114 16, 2525-023 Atouguia ,, da Baleia, Peniche +351 262 750 647, Casacastelo.com 39.3399, -9.3256 sgYe* 33 JANGA SURF MANSION Forget the packed dorms and bunk beds of other surf camps, this 19th century retreat combines big comfy beds and antique bedrooms with hectares of communal space, a pool and views out to the flaming sunsets over Berlenga Island. Take it easy in nature and meet other surfers. A Janga surf van makes trips to and from the house. Estr. Naçional 114, 2525-801 Serra d´El Rei ,, +351 262 003 100, Quintadojuncal.pt 39.3351, -9.2789 sgY*1

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lisbon & sintra Our perfect weekend ,,Break local bread pão de Mafra hot from the baker’s oven ,,Ride barrelling waves at Praia da Adraga and flake out on an empty beach ,,Listen to birdsong over the wild Cresmina sand dunes ,,Watch the sun set deep red into the ocean from Cabo da Roca, the most western tip of Europe ,,Follow the mossy staircase spiralling deep into the secret passages beneath Quinta da Regaleira ,,Fit your palm into the deep indent of a dinosaur heel in the cliffs of Praia Grande ,,Watch for the Iberian wolf at Gradil ,,Stroke woolly donkeys at Quinta do Pisão ,,Feast on garlic snails in Loures ,,Toast the sunset with a glass of wine from Quinta da Folgorosa

If you want to escape the crowds of Lisbon, you don’t have to travel far. You can reach wild places within the hour, seemingly forgotten by all but you and the seagulls wheeling overhead. The Sintra hills are considered a place of enchantment, with caves, Moorish castles, princely palaces and wild ancient woodland. Along its coast are secret beaches with significantly fewer towels and pitched parasols than the popular Costa da Caparica to the south of Lisbon. XX 1

Follow the sandy Guincho footpath through dusty myrtle until you reach the quieter beaches at Abano and its wild cliffs. North from here the rocks of the Sintra massif erupt into great Jurassic crests veined with ancient cooled lava. Sun-warmed igneous rock curves to form front-row seats for sunset with a clear view of the red sun as it slips under the Atlantic horizon. Exposed to strong sea winds, the Sintra hills are often shrouded in fog, the odd grey turret or pinnacle peeking out over woodland. These misty hills, immersed in myth and legend, are perhaps best understood as a place where things are thrown into different perspectives. “Where the land ends and the sea begins” was how Camões described Cabo da Roca in his sea-flecked epic poem ‘Os Lusíadas’. Down the ages it came to be a place representing not simply the most western point of Europe – or the edge of the then-known world – but represented the departure to new lands, new discoveries… the New World.

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Pilgrims flocked to chapels here, sailors departed and returned and Neolithic communities left their marks in caves that you can still explore around the hills of Lousa. Now surfers make an annual pilgrimage to the Ericeira World Surfing Reserve, an 8km stretch of coastline with sandy bays and barrelling waves. But there are other footprints, much deeper, stamped on these rocks. At Praia Grande, enormous footprints were left on the earth by a weight-bearing heel, ten times larger than that of a human. Dinosaur prints in soft mud have lithified over the course of 125 million years.

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This landscape tells a noisy tale, with many narratives crossing ways and clamouring for attention. Head back to the beach after sunset – the waves crash on in darkness and stars pierce the sky with surprising intensity. 168

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secret beaches 1 DUNA DA CRESMINA Dramatic beaches along the 66ha of dunes which are part of the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park. The beaches have views over to Cabo da Roca and the Sintra hills. Rich in wildlife; look out for stonechats, wagtails and lizards. Wooden walkway down to the beaches. By car: from Lisbon take N6 following N247 ,, toward Guincho. By train: CP trains connect Cascais with Cais do Sodre station in Lisbon. Scotturb buses (404-415) connect Centre Cascais to Guincho. Bike path from Cascais. 2 mins, 38.7265, -9.4689 s1D 2 PRAIA DO ABANO A hidden cove, a stone’s throw from the Cresmina dunes (see 1), and overlooked by the imposing 17th century Guincho fort. The Abano cliffs rise up on the other side. From Charneca take N247 to Guincho, and ,, continue for 500m until signs L for Praia. After Bar Guincho parking, follow white dirt road for 700m. Park by the fort. Walk 100m down to R. 2 mins, 38.7414, -9.4727 1oe 3 PRAIA DA ADRAGA The cliffs slope down to form a sandy beach.

At one side the rocks arch into the sea forming a shape like an elephant’s trunk. There is shade under here and a small cave. Part of the World Surfing Reserve. A walking trail continues along here until Cabo da Roca (see 23). From Almoçageme follow the road to the ,, coast. Parking. 5 mins, 38.8035, -9.4854 1oz 4 PRAIA DE RIBEIRA D’ILHAS A sandy beach with a stream forming a warm, wide paddling pool before it meets the sea. Popular with surfers. There is an easy hike up the cliffs from here. From Ericeira take the N247 N for 3km. Turn ,, L at brown sign for Ribeira das Ilhas. Parking 10 mins, 38.9877, -9.4194 qsk1 5 PRAIA DO MAGOITO The cove is sheltered by beautiful layers of stone in the curved cliffs. It can be busy in summer, but walk 5 mins in either direction to be alone. You can see the distant shape of the Ursa rock from here. Part of the World Surfing Reserve. Signed from Magoito. ,, 2 mins, 38.8632, -9.4494 n1k

6 LAGOA AZUL Shady trees surround this lake, the perfect spot for a dip or a picnic. Also popular with mountain bikers as several tracks through the Sintra hills begin here. Take the N9-1 into Penha Longa and follow ,, signs to Lagoa Azul. 1 min, 38.7676, -9.3969 W1

fishing villages 7 AZENHAS DO MAR Perched on a cliff, this town is built as close to the sea as a town can be. Its tiled roofs ramble down to the rocky shore. The town merges gradually into the sea as three natural rock-sided swimming pools fill with the rising tide. There is no beach but a brook babbles down past a grassy picnic area; further up, old watermills turn. 10km NW of Sintra ,, 15 mins, 38.8394, -9.4609 sW1 8 ELÉCTRICO DE SINTRA The classic 1930s Brill tram connects Sintra with the pretty coastal town of Praia das Maças. It follows a beautiful winding route of 13km between mountains and sea. It runs in summer only.

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XX 11 to the river. From here follow the river trail upstream. 15 mins, 38.8580, -9.0604 DWbs

parks & wildlife

XX 10 Tram departs from outside the Museum of ,, Arts in Sintra. €3 40 mins, 38.8031, -9.3816 bkq 9 PRAIA DOS PESCADORES Watch for flamingos from this picnicking area along the Tejo and its salt-marsh banks. There are a few kilometres of boardwalk with bird hides along this stretch and a fishing museum by the old harbour. Little boats moor here along ancient spindly wooden jetties. From Póvoa train station cross the tracks ,, to the side out of town and walk along the road

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10 QUINTA DA REGALEIRA, SINTRA The Regaleira palace is an exuberantly Gothic palace with turrets, decorative columns, lancet windows and gargoyles that reach up to the misty hills as though they grew from the encroaching forest. Built by the eccentric 19th century architect Luigi Manini, the grounds are riddled with alcoves, secrets tunnels, caves, underground waterfalls and a well with a twisting Gothic staircase. A wild garden perfect for explorations and hidden picnics. 2710-567 Sintra +351 219 106 650, ,, Regaleira.pt 2 hrs, 38.7962, -9.3960 qWz3“ 11 PARQUE NACIONAL DE MAFRA 18th century hunting grounds, eight square kilometres of which are bounded by the old wall. Inside is a rich and protected biodiversity open for hiking, biking, horse riding, archery and crossbow activities. Look out for polecats, weasels, red deer and

fallow deer, red foxes and eagles. Portão do Codeçal, 2640-602 Mafra ,, +351 261 814 240, Tapadademafra.pt 2 hrs, 38.9641, -9.3035 43“ 12 IBERIAN WOLF RECOVERY CENTRE, GRADIL This centre was established in 1987 as a sanctuary for wolves which can no longer live in the wild. This is a large sanctuary so you’ll have to keep your eyes peeled. Visits must be booked ahead. Quinta da Murta, Picão, 2665-150 Gradil, ,, Mafra +351 261 785 037, Lobo.fc.ul.pt 1 min, 38.9607, -9.2715 h4“ 13 QUINTA DA PIEDADE, PÓVOA A tiny park with a pretty cafe in the old palace of Póvoa, owned by the same family from the mid-14th century until 1916. There is a chapel with beautiful azulejos, glazed ceramic tile decoration, hidden in the gardens and a little farm with chickens and ducks running around the donkeys, goats and sheep. From the station walk into town and up the ,, hill. Signed off the N10 in Póvoa. 30 mins, 38.8635, -9.0696 qseb

XX 17 14 PARQUE FLORESTAL DE MONSANTO The hills here were re-forested in 1930s with the aim of being Lisbon’s ‘green lung’. The 1,000 ha of green hills with hiking trails, bike tracks and picnic spots do indeed provide a breath of fresh air. Buses to Monsanto leave from Rossio train ,, station. The park is signed from the A5. 1 hr, 38.7366, -9.1946 zcsqWb 15 QUINTA DO PISÃO, SINTRA-CASCAIS A 450ha park in the foothills of Sintra where you can visit woolly donkeys and explore a network of woodland trails. Listen out for barn owls and larks. Signed off the N9-1 in the Sintra-Cascais ,, Natural Park. Parking. 30 mins, 38.7588, -9.4191 qWz 16 PEDRA AMARELA BASE CAMP Located on the south slopes of the SintraCascais Natural Park. Pedra Amarela Campo Base organises outdoor activities and adventure programmes within the park. Activities include tree climbing, high ropes, rock climbing, rappel, zip line, archery, hikes, treasure hunts and workshops in conservation and soil bioengineering.

From Malveira da Serra take the N9-1 E for ,, 2.5km until signs for Pedra Amarela. Estrada da Serra, Parque Natural de Sintra-Cascais +351 211 388 398, Cascaisambiente.pt 2 mins, 38.7666, -9.4333 dqD

ancient & sacred 17 ANTA DE CARCAVELOS This is an elevated and mysterious area, and very wild. There are several megalithic dolmens and burial sites across these hills. It is entirely possible that the dolmen may be overgrown. However, it is still an eerily beautiful spot. Note: this is not the coastal Carcavelos ,, near Cascais but inland, near Lousa. From Carcavelos village follow Rua das Antas until the end and walk 50m. 2 mins, 38.8858, -9.2166 Q6h 18 SANTUÁRIO DA PENINHA If walking the Guincho Trail (see 25) your eye might be caught by a mysterious squat building crowning the hill to the east. This is the semi-wild Santuário da Peninha, a 16th century sanctuary built at the highest point of the Sintra National Park. It serves as a shrine to a local mute shepherdess whose voice

XX 16 returned in full force having seen Our Lady appear on these rocks. A site of pilgrimage for many years after, those who walked these paths left hundreds of inscriptions on the church pulpit, successive generations of inscribed names and messages. Sailors’ wives used to pray and watch from here. Outside is the Fonte dos Romeiros – Travellers’ Fountain – where pilgrims could bathe their feet in cool running water. From Almoçageme take the N247 S for ,, 5km, turn L at brown signs for Reserva da Peninha and follow for 3km. 2 mins, 38.7684, -9.4606 e68

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cliffs & caves 19 PRAIA GRANDE DO RODÍZIO Set in the side of these cliffs are the footsteps of dinosaurs, so large that it will take you a while to see them. It’s as though they just ran by yesterday but, in fact, it was 125 million years ago in the Early Cretaceous era. Their footprints have fossilised, convulsed and been thrust high up the sides of the limestone cliff. The wind cuts sharply down the stairs as you pass the now-vertical tracks. Travel from Colares to Rodízio, then follow ,, signs to Praia Grande; continue until the end of the road and park. Take the narrow steps down between the cliffs. 10 mins, 38.8097, -9.4797 n

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20 PEDRA DA URSA Approach this clifftop view along the windy track. With each step closer, the white Pedra da Ursa rocks rise up from the sea and the roar of the ocean grows steadily louder. Below is the westernmost beach in Europe and a local legend tells how these rocks got their name. When the earth was just a massive ball of ice, a bear lived here with her children. When the earth began to thaw, the gods ordered the bear to move but she

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refused and, enraged, the gods turned her to stone. The rock, called Ursa (bear), remains. Exit the N247 at Ulgueira and follow signs. ,, Park and walk down the track to view rocks. Access to the beach is dangerous. 2 mins, 38.7899, -9.4914 o1n*6w 21 GRUTA DE SALEMAS This forgotten cave is set high up on the hillside, a dark portal above the wooded slope reaching to some ancient dark recess. Inside its sides are so black you’ll emerge with black palms from feeling your way in the dark. Archaeological excavations revealed a village occupied from Neolithic times until the Middle Ages. Little is left today. Perch on a stone and survey the hills of Loures. From Lousa take the road to Salemas; ,, before the bridge over the A8, take the dirt track to the R. Park at the fork and walk downhill. The cave will emerge to your R. 3 mins, 38.8758, -9.2030 9h6*Q 22 FALÉSIAS DO ABANO The Abano cliffs are formed of veined Jurassic rock and cooled lava. Their westfacing sun-warmed stone makes a perfect sunset spot.

XX 23 Follow the footpath up the cliffs from Praia ,, do Abano (see 2) N for 800m. 15 mins, 38.7448, -9.4721 zo6

wild walks 23 CABO DA ROCA The most westerly tip of continental Europe, known as Promontorium Magnum to the Romans. On the one side you have misty Celtic hills with greens and yellows, on the other brilliant blue sea. A 5km walking route winds its way along the cliffs and continues through pine woods and sand dunes, to Adraga beach (see 3). Plenty of smooth dips in the rocks to cradle you as you contemplate the sea. From Malveira da Serra take the N247 N, ,, after 5km turn L at blue signs for Cabo da Roca, follow for 3km. Parking. For the walk follow PR7 walking signs. 3 mins, 38.7803, -9.4989 z6* 24 SANTA MARIA TRAIL This 2km circular walking trail ascends two of the most striking peaks of Sintra: the wooded summit around Castelo dos Mouros and the tree-knotted hillside at Palácio da Pena. The trail mainly follows paved paths through the forest, with a gentle slope.

Start in Largo Rainha D. Amélia (opposite ,, the National Palace) in Sintra historical centre. 1 hr, 38.7973, -9.3904 z*3e 25 GUINCHO WALKING TRAIL A signed and circular 9km walking route along the Abano cliffs and its secret beaches, turning inland along rivers through woodland and chapels. It makes use of the older pilgrim trail to the 16th century Santuário da Peninha (see 18), a hilltop sanctuary. Begins and ends at Forte do Guincho. ,, 3 hrs, 38.7398, -9.4727 zo1sh86

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26 SETEAIS WALKING TRAIL This 3.5km circular walking trail follows a stretch of the most beautiful road in Sintra, and then continues along a forest trail with vistas over the slope of the hill overlooking the historical centre. It passes Palácio da Pena and Castelo dos Mouros. See Santa Maria Trail (24) for the start. ,, 1 hr, 38.7974, -9.3904 z3e*

fairs & festas 27 FESTA DO OURIÇO DO MAR, ERICEIRA 15 restaurants across Ericeira participate in

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this festival celebrating the sea urchin. Each year you can try imaginative entries such as a ouriço-do-mar risotto with shrimp and asparagus, sea urchin sushi with seaweed, soup, pasta or simply grilled with lemon, even ouriço do mar cocktails! Early April. Câmera Municipal de Mafra, 2644-001 ,, Mafra +351 261 810 100 38.9711, -9.4165 sY XX 33

28 FESTIVAL DO PÃO EM MAFRA Mafra is proud of its bread and has every right to be. Windmills are scattered over its hills and the bread itself is slightly sweet, with a soft crumb and tough crust. In midJuly Mafra hosts the bread festival with numerous local bakeries taking part. Câmera Municipal de Mafra, 2644-001 ,, Mafra +351 261 810 100 38.9409, -9.3317 sY 29 FESTA DO CARACOL SALOIO, LOURES Snail pilgrims travel from far and wide to celebrate the land-hugging mollusc, the snail, in Loures. You can linger over a snail feijoada (bean stew), or try snail empadas, snail pizza, snail patanisca or even, and this is only for the brave, snail custard tart, pastel de nata. But nothing beats the simple plate of caracois (little snails cooked in garlic and beer) with a cool cerveja. Most of July. 2670 Loures +351 211 150 352 ,, 38.8316, -9.1727 sYg

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30 NOSSA SENHORA DA BOA VIAGEM This festival is to celebrate safe journeys of Ericeira’s local fishermen. The boats are processed through the town and at night they are illuminated on the water. Mid-August. Ericeira ,, 38.9653, -9.4186 sYe 31 FESTA DO VINHO E VINDIMAS, BUCELAS Visit Bucelas in the heart of the Loures winegrowing region in mid-October for its festival celebrating the new harvest and ancient wine-production festivities. A must for all oenophiles. With parades, wine-tastings and hundreds of bottles and vintages, they know how to have a good party. 38.9117, -9.1306 sYe

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fresh seafood 32 VIVEIROS DE MARISCO CESAR, ERICEIRA A seafood shop decorated like a mermaid’s cave with water tanks of sapateira, crabs and ouriços do mar, sea urchins, under fountains.

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On the national road just S of Ericeira. N247 ,, - Edifício César, 2655-319 Ericeira +351 261 864 378 38.9589, -9.4145 s 33 CANTINHO DA AMIZADE, ALMOÇAGEME This is an old men drinking cups of wine together kind of café or tasca in the tiny village of Almoçageme, near Colares. It’s a good place for lunch just inland from the coast; have whatever dish they are cooking. The bachalau espiritual is heavenly, but every day is different. There is usually a large cake, baked fresh, and ready for sharing. Rua Praia da Adraga 2, Almoçageme, ,, Colares +351 912 706 493 38.7964, -9.4704 sY

bread & wine 34 CANTINHO DA VÁRZEA, COLARES A pastelaria with local artwork and a great selection of regional cakes. Down the road, one minute’s walk from the river, is a cheerful fruit and veg store with local produce. Alameda Coronel Linhares Lima 2, Colares ,, +351 309 862 420 38.8036, -9.4493 s 35 QUINTA DA FOLGOROSA, DOIS PORTOS A farm with a 300-year history of wine production. The Duke of Wellington appreciated their wines as the vineyard was close to Torres Vedras, the hills used defensively against Napoleon’s invading troops. Now you can visit the vineyard and buy wine, take a tour of their old building and technology, or enjoy a wine-tasting. At tastings their wine is paired with food to fully appreciate its flavours. From Dois Portos take the CM1085 for ,, 3km, cross straight over M353, on your R after 200m. 2565-171 Dois Portos +351 919 902 914, Quintadafolgorosa.pt 39.0413, -9.1540 Ye 36 QUINTA DO SANGUINHAL, BOMBARRAL Fernando Pessoa, one of Portugal’s greatest poets, was reported to often stop mid-flow, pick up his hat and leave saying, “I’m off to Abel’s.” This habit puzzled the poet’s coworker, Luiz de Almeida, who only later realised that these visits to Abel’s were to the nearest depot of the Abel Pereira da Fonseca shops for a glass of wine. In 1926 Abel Pereira da Fonseca established the Companhia Agrícola do Sanguinhal. Why not announce you’re “off to Abel’s” and visit the Quinta do Sanguinhal for wine-tastings,

walks through the 19th century gardens, and tours of the cellars and brandy distillery. From Bombarral take N361 S for 3km; Quinta ,, is signed on the corner. 2544-909 Bombarral +351 262 609 190, Vinhos-sanguinhal.pt 39.2547, -9.1442 Ye

wilder camping 37 LISBOA CAMPING A campsite under shady pine trees in Lisbon’s Monsanto park, 1,000ha of woodland riddled with paths and trails. Lisboa Camping & Bungalows, Estrada da ,, Circunvalação, 1400-061 Lisboa +351 217 628 200, Lisboacamping.com 38.7236, -9.2080 qsgzd 38 QUINTA DOS SETE NOMES, COLARES This is an ecologically sustainable farm, just outside Colares in Sintra. The cooperative also runs gardening, handicraft, yoga and meditation classes and offers eco-camping at the farm. Compost toilets, showers and a communal kitchen and lots of delicious fresh fruit and vegetables. Avenida do Atlântico 107B, Banzão, ,,

2705-287 Colares +351 914 634 051, Quinta7nomes.com 38.8127, -9.4597 ds

rural retreats 39 CASA DE CAMPODA FLORESTA ENCANTADA, MAFRA A nine-bedroom country house in the old hunting grounds at Mafra. Wake up to birdsong outside your window and enjoy a wander in the woodland 17 before breakfast. 16 Tapada Nacional ,, 12 de Mafra, Portão do Codeçal, 2640-602 14 Mafra +351 261 817 050, Tapadademafra.pt 15 38.9385, -9.3254 gDsz 40 QUINTA DOS MACHADOS COUNTRY HOUSE & SPA, BARRAS An elegant retreat with 29 guest rooms over two family houses in Mafra farmland. The outdoor pool is surrounded by woodland and there is access to a spa with jacuzzi, sauna and treatments. 500m S of Barras on N8. 2665-006 Barras ,, +351 261 961 279, Quintamachados.com 38.9875, -9.2749 sYg p165

41 ALMÁA SINTRA HOSTEL A retreat and eco-hostel in the heart of the Sintra hills. The property is 12th century with 4ha of garden. Private and shared rooms are available. Spring water supplies the house and the furniture and decor is made with recycled material by local artists. From Sintra take the N247 for 3.5km ,, towards Quinta Grande, turn L at signs for Restaurante down Caminha Castanhais for 1km then R. Caminho dos Frades, Quinta dos Lobos 2710-560 Sintra +351 219 240 008, Almaasintrahostel.com 38.7980, -9.3992 sgYe 42 ALDEIA DA MATA PEQUENA A small rural village in Mafra with a dozen houses within the Penedo do Lexim, an extinct volcano. A great place to experience nature as eagles and stealthy foxes inhabit this rich and well-preserved natural landscape. From Mafra take the N9 S for 10km into ,, Cheleiros, turn E following River Lisandro for 600m then take the sharp L, follow for 900m. Rua S. Francisco de Assis, 2640366 Igreja Nova, Mafra +351 935 141 909, Aldeiadamatapequena.com 38.8956, -9.3200 sgYhe

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setúbal & rio sado Our perfect weekend ,,Unwind by the warm coastal lagoons of Lagoas de Santo André ,,Skinny dip at the secret cove Praia da Baleeira ,,Dive down beneath the waves to discover conger eels off Pedra da Anixa ,,Watch for laughing dolphins nosing out of Estuário do Sado Natural Reserve ,,Balance along the precarious jetties at Carrasqueira’s ancient fishing harbour ,,Discover 1st century fish-salting vats in Tróia ,,Scamper through sun-dappled woodland by the dunes at Mata dos Medos ,,Sing from the clifftops at Pedra da Mua as seagulls wheel over dinosaur footprints ,,Whisper in the dust of Neolithic burial chambers at Quinta do Anjo ,,Feast on creamy Azeitão cheese, bread and Setúbal wine ,,Bunk down in a cosy wooden lodge in the foothills of Serra da Arrábida

The Setúbal coastline, which lies over the River Tejo (Tagus) just south of Lisbon, is known as the Costa Azul. The turquoise, sometimes emerald, sea certainly lives up to its name. This is especially true of the Serra da Arrábida coast where the limestone peaks and pine forests fall quickly away to searingly blue sea edged by sandy beaches. The whole stretch of coast is riddled with caves and grottoes. While the area is a popular getaway from Lisbon, it is nonetheless possible to find a deserted cove, such as the forgotten Praia da Baleeira.

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The Serra da Arrábida hills are ideal for trekking, biking and climbing. You might spot a Bonelli’s eagle circling in the wind overhead. The limestone continues under the sea where crevices and platforms protect hundreds of fish, conger eels and crabs. Pedra da Anixa is one of these rocks, encircled by sea, just 200m off the coast, a great spot for first-time divers. Hans Christian Andersen visited these hills in 1866, and its most mysterious coastal cave, Lapa de Santa Margarida. This grotto has seen a strange history: sea monsters, the Madonna and pirates have all crossed its watery line of vision. Inside the cave “is a veritable church hewn out of the living rock” wrote Andersen, and there really is a 17th century chapel hidden in this cave, “with a fantastic vault, organ pipes, columns, and altars”.

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Further west is Cabo Espichel, its sanctuary to Our Lady perched on the cliff-edge, looking out over the sea. Up the smooth cliff-side, bending their path towards the church, run the footprints of dinosaurs left 145 million years ago, in the Late Jurassic era. Thought once to be the footsteps of a donkey bearing the Madonna up the cliff, the site became a place of medieval pilgrimage. Follow the cliff track to Pedra da Mua at sunset to view these tracks.

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Further south in the Sado estuary, by the Tróia peninsula, there is a bottlenose dolphin community. They come here to eat choco, the cuttlefish, for which these waters are renowned. You can take a boat ride out to see the dolphins or gorge on the choco frito, the Portuguese take on fish and chips, at Setúbal. End your day with a glass from one of Setúbal’s many vineyards – Quinta da Invejosa is our favourite – and a feast from the sea. They do so many seafood dishes well here. 178

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coastal lagoons 1 LAGOA DE ALBUFEIRA The Lagoa de Albufeira is formed by two lagoons: Lagoa Pequena and Lagoa Grande. Lagoa Pequena is further inland and by far the wilder of the two. It’s surrounded by pine woodland and sandy banks. The shallow water is quickly warmed by the sun and is very still, a good spot for a paddle. Lagoa Grande is also popular with water sports. Pass Apostiça, driving S on the N377 and ,, take the first brown sign you see for Lagoa Albufeira (just after signs for Lagoa Pequena). 2 mins, 38.5201, -9.1528 DqW1 2 LAGOAS DE SANTO ANDRÉ E DA SANCHA While the Sancha coastal lagoon is smaller with a reedy bed and Santo André is larger, both are havens for birdlife and surrounded by dunes and greenery. Geese, lapwings, curlews and cormorants all flock here. Santo André has good windsurfing conditions and is great for a gentle swim or paddle. The beaches along this stretch are quiet and sandy. There is a 4km walk from Praia do Porto das Carretas (38.0806, -8.8084) along Santo André lagoon and dunes. Turn R through the gate immediately before the car

park and follow the path N. From the Sancha lagoon there is a 3km walk to the L at the tree nurseries as far as Caracola. From Sines take the A26-1 N for 20km and ,, turn L after Aldeia de Brescos. Follow signs until the end of the M544. Parking. 2 mins, 38.1130, -8.7970 D1

coastal havens 3 PRAIA DOS COELHOS, PORTINHO DA ARRÁBIDA Beautiful rocks at this beach and down from long sloping steps through Arrábida woodland. It can get busy in high season. Just off the N379-1 from Portinho da ,, Arrábida E towards Outão. Park at (38.4844, -8.9709) and follow the steps down to beach. 7 mins, 38.4816, -8.9696 1K 4 PRAIA DAS BICAS, ALDEIA DO MECO A long stretch of sandy beach with naturist areas on the N, where you can also find algae-rich clay in the cliff-side, great for a full body mask. It can get busy but if you turn L before the wooden walkway down to the beach, there are amazing clifftop views and a fishermen’s cafe. The path here leads to the next beach, Praia da Foz.

From Aldeia do Meco follow brown signs for ,, Praias and then to Praia das Bicas. Parking. 10 mins, 38.4636, -9.1931 ks1 5 PRAIA PORTINHO DA ARRÁBIDA The strata of the Arrábida hills rise out of the pine forest and fall swiftly into the sea. The beach here is long and sandy and the water, protected by a bay, is slightly warmer and strikingly blue. Beneath the waves there is a particularly rich marine diversity. Pedra da Anixa (see 6), where the Arrábida rock surfaces again, is home to over 70 different aquatic species. It’s a great place to snorkel. From Outão take coastal road W. Parking. ,, 10 mins, 38.4795, -8.9805 s-K 6 PEDRA DA ANIXA Just 250m off the Arrábida coast is this jagged rock formation surrounded by pure blue water and a sandy seabed. Its cracks, cavities and platforms provide shelter for crabs, conger eels and bream, to name but a few. It’s a wonderful spot for first-time divers. Call Vertente Natural for local diving and ,, watersports activities: +351 210 848 919, Vertentenatural.com 2 hrs, 38.4778, -8.9728 -2!9

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secret beaches 7 PRAIA DA BALEEIRA This secret cove is protected by cliffs either side and due to lack of sand, small size and steep access it remains unvisited. From the high and steep descent down, the sea appears startlingly blue against the white cliff face. Wild rosemary covers the clifftops. It’s perfect for a skinny dip. From Serra da Azoia take Rua da Baleeira at ,, orange signs for the Area Desportivo. Pass the football pitch and park after 500m (38.4240, -9.1857). Walk straight ahead and then always take L until you begin to descend. 20 mins, 38.4166, -9.1898 1ovh*

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8 PRAIA DAS AREIAS BRANCAS The beaches here at White Sands are some of the cleanest in the country and with ideal conditions for windsurfing. Several hiking trails in the dunes lead to the lagoons of Santo André and Sancha (see 2). Located between the lagoons of Santo ,, André and Sancha, turn W off the A26-1 at (38.0388, -8.8009) and follow road towards the coast. 2 mins, 38.0675, -8.8164 1

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9 PRAIA DA FOZ This is a fantastic beach for wild waves. It’s caught between two high cliffs with beautiful rock strata and a sandy beach stretching between. From Aldeia do Meco follow brown signs ,, for Praias, past turn to Praia das Bicas and continue for 1.5km to the sign for Arrábida Nature Reserve. Beach on your R. Parking. 10 mins, 38.4536, -9.1986 o1

ancient & sacred 10 NOSSA SENHORA DA CABO ESPICHEL This sanctuary sits as close to the cliff edge as can be. Once a pilgrim destination, long rows of low doors beneath the porticos lead to ancient quarters. 600 years ago a fisherman caught sight of the Madonna riding a donkey up the near-vertical cliff-side here. He followed and found nothing but the mule’s footprints set deep in the rock. A sanctuary was built on the site. Years later, in the early 20th century, the footprints were recognised as the tracks of dinosaurs 145 million years old. So the Madonna, it turns out, had not been riding a donkey. From the neighbouring cliff, Pedra da Mua (12) you can still see these tracks as clearly as the fisherman once did.

9 XX From Sesimbra take the N379 W and follow ,, signs towards Cabo Espichel. 2 mins, 38.4200, -9.2158 hn8* 11 TRÓIA Known as the ‘Pompeii of Setúbal’, a phrase coined by Hans Christian Andersen on a visit here, this was the largest known fish-salting facility in the Roman world. Tróia emerged in 1st century history as an industrial Roman city, whose occupants were engaged in fishing and harvesting all kind of seafood for export across the Roman Empire. It reached the apex of its splendour in the 3rd century AD and began to fall by 400AD. Today you can wander around their fish-salting vats as well as an early Christian basilica, their baths, a residential area and a mausoleum and necropolis. Located on the Tróia peninsula. The turn,, off for the site is on the Comporta-Tróia road, about 3km S of the end of the peninsula and about 1.5km NE of the new ferry dock. A 2km dirt road, R, leads to the Roman ruins. 5 mins, 38.4861, -8.8845 “eQh 12 PEDRA DA MUA Wild cliffs accessed by a dirt track from Cabo Espichel. It was from here that the

fisherman saw the Madonna climbing the neighbouring cliff. This is the best place to view the dinosaur prints left behind. See Cabo Espichel (10) then follow brown ,, signs for Pedra da Mua; turn and park. The dirt track is signed and leads to the viewing spot on the next clifftop. 15 mins, 38.4253, -9.2153 nh* 13 THE WHISTLER TREE, ÁGUAS DE MOURA The oldest cork tree in the world. The Whistler Tree in Águas de Mouras is over 230 years old. Its name is due to all the songbirds that make its twisting boughs home. Harvested since 1820, it has produced corks for millions of wine bottles! Chances are you’ll have drunk from one. Entering Águas de Moura from the N on the ,, N5; cross the A2, pass the low houses, first L after the Laranjeira shop. Tree is on L. Parking. 1 min, 38.5864, -8.6909 s

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caves & grottoes 14 GRUTAS DA QUINTA DO ANJO These Neolithic sepulchres were hewn into the soft limestone rock of Arrábida by our ancestors over 4,500 years ago. Four large circular chambers with domed skylights

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XX 14 can be entered by low tunnels bored into the rock. Excavations in 1876 discovered arrowheads, axes, ceramic vessels, pins and buttons made of bone. They had been used as burial chambers for about 1,000 years. Just 200m outside the village of Quinta do Anjo, the caves are surrounded by the dappled shade of olive trees and, further out, the Arrábida hills. From Quinta do Anjo follow brown signs for ,, Sepulcros Neolíticos. Park by the information board and walk down. 2 mins, 38.5640, -8.9387 WQq*

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15 LAPA SANTA MARGARIDA The limestone cliffs of Serra da Arrábida are filled with caves and grottoes, some forgotten, others remembered. This cave has competing mysteries which, down the ages, have accrued on the rock. The womb-like entrance is disturbed only by the lapping waves; further inside the cave is a 17th century chapel with offerings of coins, shells, candles and flowers beneath the images of its saints. Hans Christian Andersen wrote, “It is a veritable church hewn out of the living rock, with a fantastic vault, organ pipes, columns, and altars.” The “living rock” is covered with fossils; fishermen left offerings, and Damião

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de Góis, Renaissance philosopher recorded sea monsters here. It became a medieval place of pilgrimage after the miraculous rescue of fishermen from pirates. Park on the hill into Portinho da Arrábida ,, (38.4710, -8.9878). Opposite the three-tiered and multi-arched white house is a footpath signed Casal do Meio; follow the wide, shallow steps down to the cave. 7 mins, 38.4699, -8.9867 1o9*8n

sea villages & convents 16 CARRASQUEIRA An ancient fishing community on the Sado estuary whose harbour is built entirely on wooden stilts. It is a precarious and labyrinthine knot of moorings where fishermen still return with their catch of choco, robalo, dourada or linguado. For a tiny town there are also a few good fish restaurants here (see 21). From Alcácer do Sal follow the N253 W and ,, turn R at signs for Carrasqueira. Once in the village continue for 500m until river 2 mins, 38.4127, -8.7565 sQ 17 CONVENTO DOS CAPUCHOS The gardens of this 16th century former

XX 18 convent are filled with little nooks for quiet moments – picnic tables, hidden statues, ivy-covered doorways and a duck pond. The tiny garden chapel is decorated with complex mosaics of salvaged tiles and sea shells. If you continue on the path further out there is a wonderful view of the whole Fossil Coast of Costa da Caparica. The 174 and 163 bus will take you here ,, from Almada. Or take the N10-1 towards Costa da Caparica and at the Capuchos roundabout follow brown signs to Capuchos. Parking. 5 mins, 38.6451, -9.2216 8W

wild walks 18 MATA DOS MEDOS, FONTE DE TELHA Despite its name – Forest of Fear – the only fear here was that of the dunes encroaching onto agricultural land. To inhibit this, João V planted a pine forest here in the 18th century. This is a lovely shady place to go walking. A couple of circular walks begin from the Interpretation Centre. Look out for eagles, foxes and, if you are lucky, falcons. Estrada Florestal da Fonte da Telha, Mata ,, Nacional dos Medos, 2825-494 Fonte de Telha +351 212 918 270 30 mins, 38.5951, -9.1944 zh145

wildlife wonders 19 PRAIA DO CORVO Known locally as the Beach of the Crow, this is a sandy stretch of the Tejo river beach before the inland marshes. It’s a great spot for flamingos. There is a wooden birdwatching observatory on the way to the beach. From Almada to Quinta da Varejeira; take ,, Rua Soeiro Pereira Gomes to the coast. Parking. 5 mins, 38.6543, -9.1267 D1h 20 DOLPHIN BOAT RIDES, SETÚBAL Watch bottlenose dolphins chasing alongside from the deck of your sailing boat. The guided tour can take you around the Sado estuary or the Arrábida coast. Call +351 265 238 000, Vertigemazul.com. ,, Departures from Setúbal: Edifício Marina Deck, Rua Praia da Saúde 11D 2900-572. Departures from Tróia: Marina Tróia, 7570789 Carvalhal. 3 hrs, 38.5206, -8.8969 h“4

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local food 21 RESTAURANTE RETIRO DO PESCADOR, CARRASQUEIRA A downbeat tasca with a lazy dog outside and

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an unassuming air. However, Carrasqueira is an ancient fishing harbour and this is a great fish restaurant. The arroz de marisco, seafood rice, and ensopado de enguias, eel stew, or massa de peixe are very good. And the house white wine is pretty good too. Avenida dos Pescadores, 7580-613 ,, Alcacer do Sal +351 265 497 172 38.4097, -8.7516 sYe XX 22

22 RESTAURANTE RETIRO DO MECO, ALDEIA DO MECO This lively restaurant has lots of tables outside, it’s popular with the locals and set back from the road. It specialises in local fish dishes: try the lulas recheadas, stuffed squid with a rich sauce. Rua do Comercio 40, Aldeia do Meco, 2970 ,, Setubal +351 212 683 771 38.4714, -9.1710 sK 23 RESTAURANTE A DESCOBERTA, ALCÁCER DO SAL This is a great place to try the regional dish arroz de lingueirão, razor clam rice which they serve on tables along the Sado riverfront. The lingueirão are likely to be from Murta or Carrasqueira fishermen further downriver. Rua João Soares Branco 15, 7580-093 ,, Alcácer do Sal +351 265 612 025 38.3713, -8.5086 ksY

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24 REI DO MAR, SETÚBAL Deep-fried cuttlefish with chips is the dish to try in Setúbal. They say this dish was created when a rogue cuttlefish found its way into a chef’s churros preparation. Almost every restaurant here will serve this speciality. A Portuguese twist on fish and chips. Av. Luísa Todi 50, 2910 Setúbal ,, +351 918 634 700 38.5227, -8.8862 sY

25 RESTAURANTE SANTUÁRIO DO CABO ESPICHEL Since the mid-14th century this was a place of pilgrimage. However, this church with its back to the sea and great cloistered square in front, is 17th century. Magnificent views out across the cliffs to Cabo da Roca and the Sintra hills. There is a low-key restaurant here that serves seafood: crab, clams, prawns as well as grilled quails, codernizes, and grilled chouriço. Take the N379 and follow signs to Cabo ,, Espichel.Just by the car parking area, on one arm of the church square. 38.4202, -9.2152 sYe8

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bread & wine 26 DOÇARIA DE AZEITÃO, SETÚBAL A little café with a few regional products – biscuits, cheeses and tortas de azeitão. Azeitão is home to the famous José Maria da Fonseca winery, Portugal’s oldest bottler of red wines. Locals come to this cafe to drink the wine sold by the glass for a few cents. R. Miguel Bombarda, 2925-437 Setúbal ,, 38.5320, -8.9891 sYe 27 ADEGA DE FILIPE PALHOÇA, POCEIRÃO Setúbal wine is world famous, and this 90-hectare family-run vineyard and winery, now in its third generation, produces Setúbal wines with as little chemical as possible. Vinho tinto, branco, rosé and the region’s famous Moscatel wines are all produced and matured here from the regional grapes: Castelão, Syrah, Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon, Fernão Pires and Síria. Their Quinta da Invejosa reserva is a glorious mellow vintage and worth every penny. Book in advance for a wine-tasting, vineyard chariot tour or adega tour. Drop in to buy the oak-aged Reserva wine or a ‘bag in a box’ at very reasonable retail prices. Closed Sunday. Along the N5, 2.5km S of Poceirão train ,, station.Estrada Nacional, Quinta da Invejosa, 2965-575 Poceirão + 351 265 995 886, Filipepalhoca.pt 38.6208, -8.7268 eY 28 ALKAZAR GOURMET, ALCÁCER DO SAL Named after the Moorish castle which still crowns the town, this little shop and café sells all kinds of regional products: tinned sardines and local honey, cheeses and local wines, biscuits, herbs, soaps, craft beers and fresh confectionery. You can buy farinha torrada, a delicious regional biscuit from Sesimbra, made here. It contains a cornucopia of Setúbal’s and neighbouring Alentejo’s fruitful produce. Rua Machado dos Santos 4, 7580-162 ,, Alcácer do Sal, +351 265 088 739 38.3713, -8.5078 se

wilder camping 29 CAMPING FETAIS, ALDEIA DO MECO A simple campsite just outside Aldeia de Meco and close to the naturist beaches around Praia do Meco. Bungalows and tipis are available and there is a swimming pool, bar and aviary. Rua da Fonte 4, Fetais, Aldeia do Meco, ,,

with a ‘back-to-nature’ feel, but with all the amenities of a luxurious break. 13 Quinta Casal do Frade, Rua do Casalinho, ,, 2970-050 Aldeia do Meco, Sesimbra 29 +351 918 593 007, Casaldofrade.pt 30 ECOPARQUE OUTÃO 17 22 38.4511, -9.1741 sgY A simple caravan and campsite overlooking the water where the Sado meets the sea. A13 9 32 PARQUE AMBIENTAL DO ALAMBRE stone’s throw from the Arrábida beaches. 22 30 park. Wooden bungalows and caravan Here are eight wooden bungalows, Sintra Rua da Figueirinha, Outão, 2900-182 surrounded by trees, just before the uplands 43 25 278 ,, 10 Setúbal +351 265 238 318 of Serra da Arrábida. The park has several small walks which lead out from the grounds 6 38.5028, -8.9285 d 5 and also has an extensive programme of outdoor activities: climbing, abseiling, 14 caving, canoeing and hiking are open for 38 31 CASAL DO FRADE, ARRÁBIDA NATURAL all to take part. They also run workshops in medicinal plants, scientific illustration, Lisbon PARK permaculture and nature photography. A beautiful farmhouse, eco-friendly and 2970-063 Sesimbra +351 212 682 978, Camping-fetais.com 38.4682, -9.1761 sgkd

wild retreats

Almada p175

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33 HERDADE DA BARROSINHA The Barrosinha estate was founded in 1947 and still deals in the production of wine, cattle, rice, cork and pine. The estate encompasses two chapels, hills, gardens, old mills and rice fields along the Sado estuary. The Barrosinha estate has 15 guest rooms within walking distance of the river. The restaurant serves regional cuisine and, naturally, fine local wines. Herdade da Barrosinha, 7580-514 ,, Alcácer do Sal +351 265 623 142, Herdadedabarrosinha.pt 38.3621, -8.4820 sgeY

Montijo

Estrada Nacional 379-1, 2925-318 Azeitão ,, +351 212 180 103, En.alambre.ymcasetubal.org 38.4890, -9.0292 sz2g

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north alentejo: portalegre Our perfect weekend ,,Stargaze from the wildflower river banks near Ponte da Ribeira Grande ,,Align yourself for sunset from Anta do Tapadão and watch as stars pierce the sky ,,Walk through chestnut woodlands and along medieval flagstones from Castelo de Vide ,,See the wild hills through Neolithic eyes with the Lapa dos Gaivões cave paintings ,,Catch the wind in your hair from the rambling battlements of Castelo de Marvão ,,Feel the ancient earth energy at Menir da Meada standing stone ,,Picnic by the remote Torre do Álamo, a 16th century poet’s tower ,,Dip in the water under the ancient Roman bridge in Vila Formosa ,,Feast on the regional porco preto, black pig meats, such as the cured painho or paiola

Cross the plains of Portalegre, south of the Tejo river, and huge boulders nose out of the undulating hills like whales breaking the surface of the sea. In April, rain runs off them in dark rivulets. Cave paintings, flower-strewn streams, dolmens, menhirs and rambling border castles – Portalegre has a wild beauty charged with history. High up along the Spanish border along an escarpment, bowed in the middle like a horseback, Marvão castle broods over the Serra de São Mamede mountains. This imposing 13th century defence is a perfect Crusader castle complete with echoing chambers, rambling battlements with twisting staircases, turrets and archers’ windows over dizzying views. Alentejo is laid out flat as a map beneath.

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Walk from Marvão through farmland, past fountains and forests, to Castelo de Vide where the terrain begins to shift from the gentle hills and plains, to rockier and more dramatic outcrops. Look out for choças, the circular, drystone shepherd huts often thatched with branches or straw. At Coureleiros you can see five megalithic dolmens in neighbouring fields, guarded by curious horses and watchful cows. Granite slabs lean together to form the dolmen, inviting you to step inside and sit in hushed awe in the ancient chamber. Covered in moss, lichen and tiny shards of quartz, your instinct is to touch the stones. These burial places are tactile; reverence was given by offering strings of beads, pots or arrowheads, later excavated here. They are places where the ancients would still be materially connected with the living and, as they still invite your touch, their original use persists. Further south, at Esperança, you can see the land through Neolithic eyes as cave paintings of hunting scenes still survive. Surrounded by the same hills you can be transported back to the artists’ world as ochre stains on rock depict boars, hunters, their chiefs and a dragon.

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During springtime Alentejo is a riot of wild flowers: poppies, lavender and wild lupins carpet the fields in deep purples and reds. A number of farms here keep the famous Alentejano black pig to range free on their land. Stay at Monte Alto farmhouse where these small pigs are reared for three years: the ultimate in slow food. Try porco preto at Os Caçadores in Esperança or pezinhos de coentrada, an old and nearly forgotten dish, pigs’ feet cooked with coriander sauce at Restuarante O Pedro in Cabeço de Vide. 188

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wild swims 1 PONTE ROMANA DE VILA FORMOSA An ancient bridge which once formed part of an important Roman road between Lisbon and Mérida, the ancient capital of pre-Roman Lusitânia, now in Spain. The bridge can be seen from the national road but head down for green banks and deep water. Several legends surround the building of this bridge involving the devil, a black rooster and an unwitting miller. Strong current in spring. From Alter do Chão take the N369 W ,, towards Vale de Açor. After 12km turn L at the brown sign for Pte. Romana. Follow track, park and walk down. 5 mins, 39.2159, -7.7846 1eW* 2 PRAIA FLUVIAL PONTE DA RIBEIRA GRANDE A solid Roman bridge along an ancient military route, under which still runs the Ribeira Grande. Grassy banks slope down to a wide green river. This surrounding area is perfect for stargazing. From Fronteira take the N245 N for 2km ,, and cross the river. 2 mins, 39.0709, -7.6496 1h*e

3 RIBEIRA DA CHOCANAL A perfect picnic spot by this stream babbling through meadow flowers. Cross the footbridge known, as usual, as the Ponte Romana, but more likely to be medieval. From Crato take the road S towards the ,, train station. After 1km you cross the stream, park after the bridge and follow the small road on your L down to the stream. 2 mins, 39.2795, -7.6415 Wq5

standing stones 4 MENIR DO PATALOU The Menhir of Patalou is a large standing stone that has been moved six metres north. A little granite mark signs the original site. It was first raised over 6,200 years ago. From Nisa take the N359 E towards ,, Montealvão, turn R at sign to Castelo de Vide and follow for 5km. Park and walk down paved track on R. 1 min, 39.4825, -7.5938 Qh* 5 ANTA DE SÃO GENS A megalithic dolmen (burial chamber) in a quiet, isolated spot. The ruined chapel behind and wind rushing through long grass adds to the eerie atmosphere.

From Alpalhão, take the M1176 NW. After ,, 4km you will spot this massive dolmen, R. Park earlier and walk to not disturb the quiet. 5 mins, 39.4480, -7.6762 Q*h 6 MENIR DA MEADA Standing 7m tall, this is the tallest menhir so far discovered in the Iberian Peninsula. An enormous phallus, still keeping the surrounding land fertile. Well signed from Meada and the M1006. ,, Parking nearby. 2 mins, 39.4959, -7.4455 h*h5Q6 7 COURELEIROS MEGALITHIC PARK Five megalithic sites across neighbouring fields. They date back to around 3,000 – 4,000BC. Guarded by cattle and a few horses. One great dolmen invites you to step inside, sheltering you like a wild bird. Many archaeological vestiges were found here, such as beads, ceramics, arrowheads and schist plates. From Castelo de Vide take the N246-1 N ,, towards Apalhão; turn R for Meada and follow brown Anta (Dolmen) signs. 10 mins, 39.4440, -7.4701 Qh*5

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XX 11 8 ANTA DO SOBRAL Peacefully alone in its field, this dolmen is an oasis of quiet. Climb inside and listen to the sounds of the world outside. From Portalegre take the N246 N for 14km. ,, The dolmen is L, just off the main road. Park on track after 100m. 2 mins, 39.4001, -7.4905 Q6 9 ANTA DO TAPADÃO One of the most beautiful dolmens in Portugal, it rises up on a gentle incline to survey the sweeping fields. A truly mega dolmen, it opens into a hollow mound with a great stone rolled over its entrance. You can carefully crawl underneath. About 3,000BC. From Aldeia da Mata take the N363 Crato ,, road for 1km. There is a sign to the dolmen and a gate into the paddock. Park by side of road. Walk in, shut the gate for the cattle and follow track. 2 mins, 39.2973, -7.7124 Qh*65

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caves & chapels 10 NOSSA SENHORA DE ENTRE-ÁGUAS, BENAVILA A 15th century church on the shores of the Maranhão reservoir. The name Our Lady

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Between the Waters evokes pre-Christian goddess worship. There are also myths of the Madonna appearing here where the great olive tree now stands. From Benavila walk over the bridge along ,, the N370 and turn L. 10 mins, 39.1174, -7.8685 81 11 LAPA DOS GAIVÕES, ESPERANÇA Neolithic cave paintings in red and orange pigment decorate the walls of this cave in the hillside. Hunting scenes, wild boars, dancing figures, dragons and captains; let your imagination run wild as you trace out artwork left by our ancestors over five millennia ago. There is a circular 16km signed walking route from the church at Esperança which takes you past the main cave paintings. More information can be found at the Núcleo in Esperança, Rua General Humberto Delgado, 7340-127 EsperançaArronches +351 245 561 038. Or follow signs from Esperança for Pinturas ,, Rupestres for 2km. 2 mins, 39.1486, -7.1727 hQ*9z

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castles & walks 12 CASTELO DE OUGUELA This dusty border castle with Visigothic roots was rebuilt by King Dinis in the 14th century. It surveys its land from its forgotten outpost on a rocky escarpment. From Campo Maior take the N373 for 8km ,, towards the Spanish border. Castle signed. 2 mins, 39.0790, -7.0315 e6 13 CASTELO DE MARVÃO This is the first castle you would see when crossing the border from Spain. A marvellous castle with rambling battlements, gleaming turrets, stairways to the sky and echoing chambers below. Stunning views across Alentejo and Spain. Park outside the walls of Marvão and ,, wander in, following signs for the castle. Small entrance fee. 5 mins, 39.3961, -7.3792 e*u“q6 14 CASTELO DE VIDE – MARVÃO TRAIL This is an ancient way between two historical towns that passes farms, shepherds’ huts, churches, fountains and beautiful chestnut woodland. Some sections of this path are still along medieval flagstones.

Signed, linear trail PR3, 9km. The route ,, begins at the view point in Castelo de Vide on Rua da Circunvalação (39.4172, -7.4544) and ends at Porta de Ródão in Marvão(39.3959, -7.3774). 1.5 hrs, 39.4172, -7.4544 hz*e

wild picnics 15 ELVAS This is a wild town where wildlife abruptly meets the 13th century walls. Seen from above this walled fortress resembles a many-pointed star. The land falls away into lakes and grassland covered in wild flowers, with the odd goatherd or shepherd. This is a great place for birdwatching. From Elvas take the N4 for 2km towards ,, Badajoz. Opposite Continent supermarket take the road R and park at the end. Walk uphill through olive groves. 10 mins, 38.8771, -7.1375 h*W 16 TORRE DO ÁLAMO A 16th century tower said to have once belonged to the family of the poet Luis de Camões and where he wrote ‘Os Lusíadas’. Now a remote and beautiful place for a picnic in the long grass.

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From Cano take the N372 to Sousel, pass ,, the olive tree farm and take the dirt track on your R. Continue 4km along track and park. 2 mins, 38.9285, -7.7576 hW5

regional dishes 17 CAFÉ COZINHA ALENTEJANA, AVIS Try simple, regional and cheap dishes here with a great selection of local wines. Orange trees drop their fruit on the street outside. Avenida da Liberdade 17, 7480-103 Avis ,, +351 242 412 377 39.0534, -7.8912 sYe

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18 RESTAURANTE O MIGUEL Traditional dishes cooked for the locals with steps down from the narrow street to a cosy restaurant. The rabbit, coelho, is delicious with round-cut chips. Good house wine. Rua Almeida Sarzedas 32, 7320-115 ,, Castelo de Vide +351 245 901 882 39.4156, -7.4544 sYe

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19 CAFÉ RESTAURANTE OS CAÇADORES, ESPERANÇA This is where the locals go. A humble and friendly café with great porco preto, the regional black pig speciality. This is rich, dark and tender meat, strong and delicious, as the pigs have been allowed to roam freely for three years. The owner, Lara Evangelista, is an expert on rural farming here and how to rear and cook the ultimate in slow food. Largo 25 de Abril 1, 7340-111 Esperança ,, +351 245 561 042 39.1576, -7.1923 esY

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20 RESTAURANTE O PEDRO Regional dishes at this simple, cosy restaurant. Generous portions at good prices. This is the place to try the Alentejana pezinhos de coentrada, pigs’ feet cooked in a coriander sauce, a lamentably forgotten dish now. Avenida da Libertação, 7460-002 Cabeço ,, de Vide +351 245 634 224 39.1315, -7.5893 sYe

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21 PASTELARIA SOL NASCENTE Many regional and traditional dishes to try in this cosy café. If they have baked a slab of boleima de maça, try a piece of this unleavened pastry made with honey, apple, cinnamon and burnt sugar. R. de Olivença 31, 7430-000 Castelo de ,, Vide +351 245 901 789 39.4146, -7.4549 sYe

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rustic havens 22 MONTE ALTO, CAMPO MAIOR Curl up by a log fire in this luxurious country house with panoramic views across undulating farmland. A peaceful haven of luxury and rest but also deeply in touch with its agricultural heritage. Black pigs roam free-range around olive groves, oak orchards, cork montados and an allotment. Due to four lambing seasons there are often lambs here too. Ask to visit the santuário, fallow fields left wild with views over the reservoir, perfect for a picnic. Herdade do Monte Alto, Degolados, ,, 7370-191 Campo Maior +351 268 688 176, Montealto.com.pt 39.0787, -7.1236 sYeg6 23 HORTA DO MURO OLIVE OIL FARM Stay in the old farmhouse surrounded by 7ha of olive groves with horses, bicycles and an outdoor pool. The DOP Biocampo olive oil is produced here. Horta do Muro, 7370 Campo Maior ,, +351 268 688 431, Hortadomuro.com.pt 39.0189, -7.0234 sYegc 24 MONTE DA TORRE, ELVAS An elegant guesthouse surrounded by 210 hectares of working farmland. This is a peaceful retreat and natural haven. N from Elvas on N246; pass junction with ,, A6, continue for 4km, then R on dirt road. Monte da Torre, S.Vicente, Elvas +351 964 044 459, Montedatorre.pt 38.9399, -7.1854 esYg

wilder campsites 25 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO DA QUINTA DO POMARINHO, CASTELO DE VIDE A peaceful and small campsite in the hills of Serra de São Mamede Natural Park. On the site of a former farm, camp among olive trees with no electric light at night. Quinta do Pomarinho N246 km16.5, 7320,, 421 Castelo de Vide +351 965 755 341, Pomarinho.com 39.4007, -7.4866 sgY*hd 26 CAMPING OS ANJOS, CAMPO MAIOR A small and jolly rural campsite with a pool and beautiful views. Estrada da Senhora da Saude, 7370-150 ,, Campo Maior +351 268 688 138 Campingosanjos.com 39.0082, -7.0478 sqgd

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central alentejo: évora Our perfect weekend ,,Walk through wild woodland, guided by the Lucefécit river until Rocha da Mina ,,Run along the watchtower at the ruined Fortaleza de Juromenha ,,Pay homage to Aldeia da Luz, a village sunk under dark Alqueva waters ,,Watch the sunset in Portugal’s most ancient olive grove surrounding Anta do Olival da Pega ,,Lay along the fallen stones at Anta Grande do Zambujeiro, waiting for moonrise ,,Cast your wish at Rocha dos Namorados standing stone ,,Picnic by the wild flowers at Cromeleque do Xerez ,,Feast on mouthwatering bochechas de porco assada within the castle walls of Monsaraz ,,Toast the star-speckled night sky with a glass of oak-aged Conde d’Ervideira

Évora is famous for wine-making and abundant springtime flowers, but is as rich in history as it is rooted in viniculture. This is the district for dolmens, disputed borders, wild castles and forgotten shrines but it is also veined with rivers, riddled with vineyards and towns so far apart the lack of electric light reveals a dark sky bright with stars worth the journey alone. Camp wild and toast the heavens with Borba wine, produce of the surrounding land. At Anta da Olival near Monsaraz you can watch the sunset in one of Portugal’s oldest olive groves. As the sunlight catches the long grass you can crawl inside these gnarled trees like curled dragons, some two thousand years old, themselves surrounding a sleepy megalithic dolmen. Or watch the moonrise from Anta Grande do Zambujeiro, one of the largest dolmens in Iberia. Its monumental flint-knapped stones make it feel like a great Egyptian tomb. The damp grass at dusk is home to leaping hares, and a stream slips along nearby. If you visit in spring, take a dip in the streams matted with star-like crowsfoot blossom, tendrils streaming in the current. There are luxurious tipis at Azenhas de Seda in secluded spots along the banks of Ribeira da Raia, a river which stays deep enough for a dip all year.

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At Juromenha, the fortress’ contested history continues today. Due to its strategic position along the Guadiana river and frontier, it has been attacked down the ages, successively under Portuguese then Spanish possession. Abandoned in 1920, you can stare out through the ruined 17th century fortress walls at Spain. This 25km stretch of border line will not be defined in bold on your Portuguese map as, while it was waiting to be redrawn, the disputed territory of Olivenza/Olivença was designated a bicultural town.

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The Alqueva reservoir acts as another permeable border between the Évora and Beja districts. Monsaraz crowns this blue Avalon with its Templar castle rising up out of the watery scape. The terrace at Os Templários is our favourite place to dine and watch the sunset over the Alentejo panorama. Buried beneath the waters of the Alqueva is Aldeia da Luz, the poignantly named Village of Light, flooded in 2003. The road to the submerged town leaves from the new; take it to the water’s edge. From there it continues down to where, it’s said, church bells chime underwater. 196

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wild swims 1 ALDEIA DA LUZ, BARRAGEM DE ALQUEVA Stare out over the untroubled surface of Alqueva reservoir under whose dark waters Aldeia da Luz, the Village of Light, remains. The village was flooded in 2003, and a new village was built on the shores with a museum you can visit. The old village had Neolithic and Palaeolithic origins and a fountain which was said to have spouted miraculous waters. Now, at least, the healing waters are mixed with those of one of the largest reservoirs in Western Europe. From Aldeia de Luz take the road towards ,, the old village, turning R before the museum. Park and walk to the water’s edge. 2 mins, 38.3436, -7.3858 e1h* 2 RIBEIRA DO DIVOR This is a large cork montada or plantation that slopes down the river. You can walk in and wander but close the gates behind you. In spring there is water deep enough for a dip. From Mora take the N2 S towards Brotas. ,, After the second roundabout continue on N2 for 500m, turning R at brown sign for Ribeira do Divor. Continue for 10km as far as the river

crossing. Park and walk to river bank. 5 mins, 38.9030, -8.2607 1h*

castles & towers 3 TORRE DAS ÁGUIAS, BROTAS Eagles’ Tower is a deserted 16th century edifice. The eagles have left and only swallows dart in and out from its turrets. The outhouses are abandoned. It’s on private property but has public access as it is a national monument. From Brotas village follow signs for Torre ,, das Águias. This is on private farmland but access is allowed as it is a national monument. Open and close the farm gate securely behind you. Park by the outhouses. 5 mins, 38.8750, -8.1265 *h5e 4 CASTELO DE NOUDAR, BARRANCOS The battlements, staircases and vaulted interior of this border castle crowning the wild hills are medieval, but human occupation of this site dates back to prehistoric times. One of the legends that surround this mysterious place is that inside the castle dwells a serpent. Thought to be an enchanted Moorish princess, it only comes out at night.

From Barrancos take the N258 away from ,, Spain then follow signs to your R to Castelo de Noudar. 5 mins, 38.1781, -7.0628 eQuG 5 FORTALEZA DE JUROMENHA A ruined fortress on the still-disputed border before Olivença. Wild flowers have overgrown this 9th century fortress and its colourful history. Now you can ramble around battlements looking down to the Guadiana and Spain or peek into abandoned crypts. From Alandroal take the N373 for 16km ,, turning R at signs for Juromenha. Continue straight through the town following signs for Fortaleza. Parking. No entrance fee. 15 mins, 38.7380, -7.2402 eh6z

ancient & sacred 6 GRUTAS DO ESCOURAL, SANTIAGO DO ESCOURAL Discovered by accident in 1963, these caves contain Palaeolithic rock art some 10 – 40,000 years old. The earliest traces of human occupation in these caves date back 50,000 years. Book an appointment to visit the caves at ,, Centro Interpretativo do 3 Escoural

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XX 10 +351 266 857 000. Closed Sunday, Monday. 1 hr, 38.5444, -8.1376 n9Q“ 7 CAPELA DOS OSSOS, ÉVORA This 16th century chapel decorated with bones is in the less wild location of Évora town centre. But only step inside its shadowy hollows to feel a wild and mortal connection with the earth. The inscription over the door reads: “We bones that are here, waiting for yours” reflects the mindset of Franciscan monks. Built in order to remind us we are part of a wild cycle: made from earth, we will return to it. Follow signs to Jardim Público de Évora, ,, turn L onto Rua da República for 100m. 2 mins, 38.5689, -7.9082 e8

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8 SEPULTURAS MEDIEVAIS, ROSÁRIO Five or six deep-cut clefts in the rock formed medieval graves which are now filled with obsidian-black water and surrounded by olive trees. An impenetrable aura remains. An 8km circular and signed walking route begins in nearby Rosário village. From Rósario follow brown signs for ,, Sepulturas Medievais for 250m down the track. 2 mins, 38.6264, -7.3475 *hQ

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dolmens & stone circles 9 ANTA DO LIVRAMENTO, NOGUEIRINHA Just off the roadside, this dolmen has been made into a church, because stones that have stood for around 5,000 years clearly need buttresses. Nevertheless it is a sweet union of cultures and times in a sacred place. From São Brissos take the CM1079 towards ,, Santiago do Escoural. After Nogueirinha the chapel is on your left. Call +351 266 857 637/128/183 to open the chapel. 2 mins, 38.5248, -8.1292 8h*QW 10 ANTA GRANDE DO ZAMBUJEIRO, ÉVORA Watch the moonrise at dusk perfectly aligned with the portal of this massive dolmen. These enormous stones are flintknapped flat, covered with ancient marks, their mega weight resting on each other to create a dark chapel. You cannot enter but you can peer in from the mound behind. A sacred space built in about 4000 BC and thought to be the largest in Iberia. From Évora take the N380 then CM1079 ,, to Valverde and follow brown signs for Anta. Follow dirt track for 850m and park. Walk over the footbridge and up path. 5 mins, 38.5391, -8.0143 Qh*5

XX 11 11 CROMELEQUE DOS ALMENDRES, ÉVORA One of the largest groups of standing menhirs in Europe, 96 stones watch from a clearing in the cork oak woodland out over the plains of Nossa Senhora da Guadalupe. Some have swirling designs. Visit out of season for some peace with the stones as, though never busy, this is a popular circle. From Évora take the N114 towards ,, Montemor-o-Novo but after 18km turn left at brown sign to Cromeleque. Follow signs. 10 mins, 38.5575, -8.0611 h*5Qk 12 ANTA DE SÃO DINIS, PAVIA This dolmen was Christianised in the 17th century when an altar was constructed under its solid stones. Swallows dart in and out of the latticed doorway. You can buy beer and peanuts from Café Dolmen opposite. It’s less wild but it is a typical, sleepy Alentejo village with long streets, large chimneys and locals chatting on the corner in thickening evening light. The dolmen feels it’s been swept into the corner of the square, perfectly harmonised, always present. Take the N251 into Pavia and follow signs ,, for Centro Historico. 1 min, 38.8942, -8.0170 Qe

13 ROCHA DOS NAMORADOS Lovers’ Rock is a standing menhir in the olive fields by the village of Corval. Legend and locals tell of a strange custom: if you stand on top of the smaller stone and face away from the menhir aiming a pebble, left-handed, towards the menhir, you will determine the number of years to your marriage by the number of your attempts to hit the rock. The menhir is littered with thrown stones. Some must have endured longer than the marriages. From Reguengos de Monsaraz take the ,, M514 to Corval. Continue straight past and the rock is after the roundabout on your L. Parking. 1 min, 38.4450, -7.4755 Qe6 14 MENIR DA BULHOA Discovered fallen and broken in the late 1960s, this standing stone dates back to perhaps 5000BC. Now re-erected you can, depending on the light, see its sun motifs and the swirling lines that decorate its tall body. Just off the main road, it has a dramatic paved path leading up to it. The menhir stands tall in its flat fields. From Monsaraz take the M514 and follow ,, signs for Reguengos de Monsaraz. At the 2nd

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XX 16 roundabout, take the 1st exit and follow for 1km. Menhir is signed on L. 1 min, 38.4621, -7.3829 Qh* 15 ANTA DO OLIVAL DA PEGA Surrounded by Portugal’s most ancient olive grove is this 5,000-year-old dolmen. Further funerary structures in the nearby fields are disguised by olive roots. A beautiful place for sunset through the long grass. From Monsaraz take the M514 towards ,, Corval, and after about 3km look for a brown Anta sign to R and follow. 2 mins, 38.4514, -7.3989 Qeh*6

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16 CROMELEQUE DO XEREZ This stone circle with a prominent phallic central stone is a moving monument, in both senses. The stones were originally reerected in 1969 and then moved once again in 2004 at the construction of the Alqueva dam. Now they look out over an amazing view and remain fairly unvisited. From Monsaraz take the M514 to Ferragudo. ,, At the menhir roundabout take the 1st exit for the Conjunto Megalithico. Follow signs for the Convento and park before it. Take the R track and follow the cement path to the stones. 5 mins, 38.4533, -7.3709 Qh*56

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17 SANTUÁRIO DE ENDOVÉLICO DE ROCHA DA MINA A great rock juts up from the river Lucefécit and towers over the tree tops. This is Rocha da Mina, the site of the Lusitanian sanctuary to the pre-Roman god of healing, Endovélico. Climb the age-old rock steps up to the sacred place. Ribbons tied to a tree declare it still to be a place of worship. From Alandroal take the N373 towards ,, Redondo. After 7km turn L onto the dirt track for 2km. Park and walk along the path for 1km. Cross the footbridge. 20 mins, 38.6626, -7.4751 Q6hn* 18 ANTA DA CANDEEIRA In the hillside of Serra d’Ossa sheltered by cork trees sits this dolmen, one of the very few to have a port-hole window or a ‘soul hole’. From Redondo take the N381 N towards ,, Estremoz. After 7km turn R at brown signs for Anta. Follow signs 1km down dirt track. 5 mins, 38.7039, -7.5527 QW5*h

walks & villages 19 BROTAS Brotas is a small village with a beautiful fresh fountain dating from 1699. Here the

XX 18 Madonna healed a cow in the 16th century and it has been a site of pilgrimage ever since, by horse and by foot. The pilgrimage takes place on the second Sunday of August. Take the N2 into Brotas and park just ,, outside. Walk in to find the church, fountains and cafés. 10 mins, 38.8708, -8.1536 esgY8 20 GAMEIRO RIVER ROUTES, MORA Walk the river way or forest path through the Ecological Park of Gameiro: each is about a 2km circular walk. There is also a river beach. Signed off the N2 N of Mora. Ecological ,, Park of Gameiro, 7490-909 Cabeção +351 266 448 130 30 mins, 38.9544, -8.1073 zh*D45

regional dishes 21 RESTAURANTE PORFÍRIO’S, REDONDO Dine around dark wood tavern tables under the arches of this family-run restaurant. Try the feijão, bacalhau e poejos soup: a rich broth with cod, beans and the pennyroyal mint popular here. The wine selection is extensive, naturally, and the borrego no forno is beautiful – slow roast lamb with fried potatoes from the garden. The

encharcada, a regional conventual cake, made with egg yolk, sugar, almonds and cinnamon, is heaven. Rua de Montoito 59-61, 7170-040 ,, Redondo +351 266 909 737. Closed Mondays 38.6474, -7.5445 sY 22 CASA DE PETISCOS O CHOUPAL, ALANDROAL This unassuming House of Snacks is a great place to try regional dishes: carne de porco à Alentejana or barbo frito, the river fish for which this area is renowned. The portions are big enough for two. Travessa da Fonte 11, 7250-125 Alandroal ,, +351 962 064 835 38.7026, -7.4024 sY 23 RESTAURANTE OS TEMPLÁRIOS, MONSARAZ Dine on the terrace of Os Templários and look out from the walls of the ancient Templar castle at Monsaraz. Hidden behind the town’s oldest gate, the restaurant commands views out across the Alqueva dam, Beja and Spain. Naturally, the wine cellars are well-stocked at this restaurant in the heart of Alentejo’s wine region. Swirl a glass from Carmim, a world-renowned Monsaraz winery, and try

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the gooey baked goat’s cheese with olive oil, oregano and Alentejano bread to dip. Sopa de cação is a broth made with dogfish, worth a try, but the king of the dishes here is bochechas de porco assada, roast pig cheeks with potatoes and pumpkin. With the panoramic views, history, joy taken in the cooking and wines, this is a feast for eyes as well as your appetite. Rua Direita 22, 7200-175 Monsaraz ,, +351 266 557 166 38.4436, -7.3802 sYe

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24 RESTAURANTE O FORNO, PAVIA The owner confidently claims his is Arroz de cabidela, rice cooked in pig or chicken’s blood, is unlike any you’ve had in your life! He is not wrong. Rua 25 de Abril 2, 7490-448 Pavia ,, +351 266 457 579 38.8950, -8.0219 sY 24 XX

25 RESTAURANTE SOLAR DA VILA, MORA This is the place to try migas de espargos com carne de Alguidar: the Alentejana style migas (fried bread) with asparagus and marinated pork. Rua da Esperança 17, 7490-072 Mora ,, +351 933 818 943 38.9552, -8.0788 SY 26 RESTAURANTE BARBAS, VALVERDE A cosy restaurant with an enormous cowbell hanging from the curtains. Try the feijoada, a hearty bean stew with chouriço, beef on the bone and vegetables. Rua 25 de Abril 23, Valverde ,, +351 965 656 455 38.5330, -8.0212 sY

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regional sweets 27 PADARIA GALVÃO, BORBA This tiny bakery in the old walls of Borba castle has barely space enough for the locals who drop by for one its many cakes. Try the local biscuit bolo da gema made with fresh egg yolks. Avenida Povo, 7150-103 Borba ,, +351 268 890 606 38.8054, -7.4562 s

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28 PASTELARIA LANDROAL, ALANDROAL Here they make the traditional Portuguese custard-tart, pastel de nata, with a wild twist: acorn or bolota flour. The acorn flour is very light. A beautiful little pastelaria that also has a few guest rooms above.

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Rua António José de Almeida 7, 7250,, 138 Alandroal +351 268 449 662, Landroalresidencial.com 38.7028, -7.4037 sY 29 PASTELARIA CISTERNA, MONSARAZ Built over Monsaraz castle’s medieval stone water reservoir, this dark little pastelaria does excellent empadas de galinha, small chicken pies, to have with a beer. R. Direita 24A, 7200-175 Monsaraz ,, 38.4437, -7.3802 se

wine & vines 30 ADEGA COOPERATIVA DE BORBA The Borba wine shop where you can buy all the winemakers’ produce at retail prices. Wine-tastings and olive oil tours can be arranged. Largo Gago Coutinho e Sacadura Cabral, ,, 7151-913 Borba. To book a tasting call +351 268 891 660 or e-mail geral@adegaborba.pt. 38.8070, -7.4627 sY 31 ERVIDEIRA WINE SHOP This is the winery that buried cases of their oak-aged Conde d’Ervideira under the Alqueva dam. Here it matures with the darkness and regular temperature unachievable elsewhere. Indulge in a wine tasting and try their Invisível , a white wine made with a red grape: each grape is squeezed for a single drop, untouched by the reddening skins. Rua da Porta de Alcova, 7200,, 175 Monsaraz +351 266 557 099 ervideirawineshopmonsaraz@gmail.com 38.4429, -7.3807 Ye

rural stays 32 CASAS DE ROMARIA, BROTAS A number of quaint holiday rentals in the traditional houses of Brotas village. Confraria de Palmela is one of the houses, built in 1678; it sleeps two and is hidden up some steps between walls adjoining the church. Rua da Igreja 30, 7490-017 Brotas ,, +351 966 948 643, Casasderomaria.com 38.8709, -8.1534 sge8

wilder campsites 33 AZENHAS DA SEDA AQUATURISMO This is wild luxury, all the comforts of a rural retreat while sleeping out under the stars. Secluded tipis and tents by the River Raia

as it tumbles by the old watermill. This river never runs dry, even in the arid Alentejo summers. The campsite excels in canyoning, canoeing, hike and swim trips, and picnics with local produce. Signed off N251 between Mora and Pavia. ,, +351 266 448 036, Azenhasdaseda.com 38.9394, -8.0245 12T=hdgsW*

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34 CAMPING ROSÁRIO Wake up to endless views across Alentejo hills at this campsite near the Alqueva dam. From N273 E of Alandroal, exit for ,, Rosário. Follow signs with blue arrow and red caravan. Monte das Mimosas, 7250-203 Rosário - Alandroal +351 268 459 566, Campingrosario.com 38.6069, -7.3466 dh*z

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south alentejo: beja Our perfect weekend ,,Paddle in the clear mountain waters at Pego da Cascalheira ,,Doze among the wild flowers at Ribeira do Morgadinho ,,Gaze across the hushed and haunted fields from São Pedro das Cabeças ,,Discover hills inhabited only by wildlife at the hilltop settlements of Castro da Cola ,,Watch for eagles from the wild tumbling river at Cascata do Pulo do Lobo ,,Bivvy down at night by Anta das Pias and listen to the earth breathe ,,Indulge in a tosta mista, ham and cheese melted inside buttered, crusty Alentejo bread ,,Eat with the locals in the lively Café O Bombeiro with chalked-up daily specials ,,Stroke the rare Miranda do Douro donkeys at Alqueva Rural Camping in Pedrogão

Beja is a land of orange trees, colourful washing lines and bullfighting posters curling in the sun. Walk into any village and there will be low white houses and old men drinking outside the café. At Pedrógão, when the rich evening sun falls over the square, children run between café tables and race bicycles across the square. This is old Portugal, where everyone knows everybody. XX 2

Life runs at a leisurely pace as if, through a surfeit of ancient sites, some timelessness has rubbed off on the people who live here.

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At Pulo do Lobo, the Guadiana gushes through a rocky gorge so narrow it came to be known as the ‘wolf’s leap’. The legendary wolf leapt to safety onto the other side. It escaped its hunter and that is how it feels to arrive here, deep within the endless stretches of Alentejo. In the words of Nobel Prize-winning novelist José Saramago, Pulo do Lobo “... is not Portugal, it is something from another world… The waters roar, surge, beat, swirl around and gnaw away perhaps a millimetre every century, or every thousand years, a mere nothing in this eternity: the world will come to an end before the water has completed its task.” Further south, as the Alentejo flatlands break into the hills of northern Algarve, is the Pego da Cascalheira. If you take the mountain road from Santa Cruz to get here you will pass idyllic farmhouses, thatched huts and hills strewn with rock roses. Julieta of Santa Cruz, who years ago used to wash clothes in this stream, told us that the water was once as clear as she was once beautiful. The water at this river is still clear and laughs, as much as her, as it babbles over the rocks. The best Alentejana bread is to be found in the south. Pão Alentejana has air bubbles like ciabatta but a heavier crumb and thicker crust. Restaurante O Bombeiro at Castro Verde’s fire station is a busy, jovial canteen with baskets of this wonderful bread and regional dishes that make for a good lunch stop.

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Finally, climb back up from Pulo do Lobo to discover Anta das Pias. Steeped in time yet impervious to its ravages, this part-buried dolmen survives to greet each dawn. On a little hill rising above the Guadiana, it endures all changes. Rest there the night and it’ll be not only your breath rising and falling but that of the earth gently breathing too. 206

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river swims 1 PONTE ROMANA, ALMODÔVAR Built in the late 12th century this bridge, set just out of town, has Roman origins as Almodôvar was a strategic point along the trade road linking Beja to the Algarve. This is a place for a swim only in spring as Ribeira de Cobres will dry up in summer. Coming from the S, this bridge is just off ,, the N2 on your R as you enter town. 2 mins, 37.5118, -8.0547 e1W 2 PEGO DA CASCALHEIRA, SANTA CRUZ Here the terrain begins to shift from the flat plains of south Alentejo into the beginning of inland Algarve’s wild mountainous region of Serra do Caldeirão. There is water all year round at this swim spot in the Ribeira do Vascão, flooding the road and making a ford crossing. Deep enough for a swim, cradled by mountains. From Almodôvar head south on N2, turn ,, L after Dogueno at signs for Santa Cruz; follow this road for 2km, turn R at sign for Cascalheira (37.4322, -7.9545) and follow for 6km along mountain road. 5 mins, 37.4088, -7.9178 z1Wh*

3 RIBEIRA DO MORGADINHO Where the Ribeira de Oeiras widens its curves, the shallow water is warmed in the sun. A slow current here but a beautiful swim among the white crowsfoot flowers that grow star-like in scattered webs on the surface. This is a beautiful spot for stargazing. From Almodôvar this spot is 6km S on the ,, N2. After crossing the stream, and passing two curves, look out for a dirt track off the N2 at (37.4765, -8.0200) and slowly follow the track down to its end (very short). Park and walk down to the river. 2 mins, 37.4750, -8.0193 1W*h6 4 CASCATA DO PULO DO LOBO Known as the Wolf’s Leap, this 16m cascade is in the Vale do Guadiana Natural Park. You might catch glimpse of a black stork or eagle owl or golden eagle circling above this ancient river. See Anta das Pias (see 5) and follow track ,, down to the river. Or if you want to take the car continue into Pias and follow road to the river. 20 mins, 37.8041, -7.6334 =1hz*

ancient & sacred 5 ANTA DAS PIAS, VALE DO GUADIANA NATURAL PARK This is a forgotten dolmen, partially buried and located on top of a small summit with views across the Guadiana valley and the vast horizon. Although not considered a national monument, its strategic placing in the landscape and east-west orientation should be explored further. Aligned perfectly for watching the sunset and moonrise. From Corte Gafo de Cima take the road ,, N towards Pias. After 14km there is a sunbleached information plaque and a gravel path L. Park here. The Anta is hidden through bushes, on a slight hill, 11 o’clock, as you enter. 2 mins, 37.8153, -7.6504 h*Qz65 6 RUÍNAS ROMANAS DE SÃO CUCUFATE Wander around Roman ruins dedicated to the martyred Spanish Saint Cucufate. The beginnings of the convent were laid down in the 1st century and abandoned for the first time in the 5th century AD, then again in the 17th century. One hermit monk then remained. Now you can see remains of hot baths, two-storey ruins and medieval wall paintings.

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7 XX From Vidigueira take the N258 W for 4km ,, towards Vila Alva, turn R at brown signs for São Cucufate. +351 284 441 113 1 hr, 38.2236, -7.8453 “eQq 7 CASTRO DA COLA ARCHAEOLOGICAL CIRCUIT An Iron Age necropolis from about 1,100BC crowns this hill circled by the River Mira. The walk here is through woodland – rock roses, wild thyme, lavender, holm oak and cork – and a very wild stretch of river with no roads nearby. The Celtic settlement was later reinforced during the Arab occupation of Portugal and controlled a principal route of passage to the Algarve. The linear walk around here today is about 35km, signed and on a beaten earth track. There are 14 other archaeological sites – some dating from the Bronze Age – but the wild herbs obscure much of this to the untrained eye. Soak up the wild flora, fauna and timeless views instead. From Ourique take the IC1 6km S until a ,, brown sign R for Castro da Cola. Follow the signs through the villages, and park. Walk begins here. 1 day, 37.5787, -8.3004 zQ6h*e

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8 PONTE ROMANA DE SELMES On the outskirts of the village Selmes, where the allotments run down to the stream’s edge, is this possibly 16th century bridge. From the main square at Selmes walk down ,, Rua da Ponte. 2 mins, 38.1457, -7.7568 ze 9 CASTELO DE MÉRTOLA Mértola Castle crowns a rocky hill surveying the Guadiana river and surrounding natural park. The medieval castle in the centre of this quaint town has Islamic origins. The church was originally a mosque and retains a mihrab pointing to Mecca. From the N122 into town, park in the ,, covered parking area and walk up the hill into town, as far as the castle. 10 mins, 37.6389, -7.6636 h6Q

rural towns 10 PEDROGÃO Orange blossom in the square and children running about in the evening, skidding past café tables. A couple of good cafés and a restaurant in the square. This is a quiet village by all appearances, but if you stop by to ask directions, by the end of the day the

XX 12 whole town will know you. A little S of the Alqueva dam. From Moura ,, take the N258 W. 2 mins, 38.1177, -7.6473 esgY

sunset hilltops 11 MIRADOURO ALCARIA DA SERRA In the tiny village of Alcaria da Serra is this unlikely hill with beautiful views across all the flat plains of Barranco do Vale da Serra and beyond into Beja. Breathe in the views, with only the birdsong, wind in the trees and tinkling of distant cowbells. Look out for wild deer on the road between Marmelar and Alcaria. The farm used to breed them but now they run wild. Enter Alcaria on the road from Marmelar, ,, continue in and turn R at the end of town into Rua da Boavista; continue up hill, park and walk up to the white round tank. 5 mins, 38.2047, -7.7421 *6 12 SÃO PEDRO DAS CABEÇAS, CASTRO VERDE This 15th century chapel sits on top of a hill looking out over the legendary site of the Battle of Ourique. In July 1139 Dom Afonso Henriques defeated five Moorish kings and

so formed Portugal, which remains one of Europe’s oldest countries. After Afonso’s success, myths of his miraculous vision of Jesus Christ over this field began to spread and were used down the years to bolster borders threatened by Spain. Now the chapel is a pilgrimage site and a peaceful place to contemplate the endless views over Alentejo. From Castro Verde take the N123, turning ,, R towards Geraldos and follow brown signs for the Igreja. 2 mins, 37.6777, -8.0362 ez*h8

wine & dine

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13 RESTAURANTE CHARRUA, PEDRÓGÃO A locals’ restaurant, using fresh ingredients to make regional dishes and puddings. Good wine and Alentejo migas. Praça da República 13, 7960-026 ,, Pedrógão +351 284 455 153 38.1178, -7.6470 sY 14 ADEGA COOPERATIVA DE VIDIGUEIRA This adega was founded in 1960 but its history extends beyond as its roots are tangled with the history of the town Vidigueira itself. The name is derived from ‘videira’ meaning vine, referring to this

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abundant land. The explorer Vasco da Gama was made the first Count of Vidigueira in 1519. Bairro Industrial, 7960-305 Vidigueira ,, +351 284 437 240, Adegavidigueira.com.pt. Closed lunchtime 38.2080, -7.7995 Ye 15 RESTAURANTE CAFÉ O BOMBEIRO, CASTRO VERDE This is a restaurant in the fire station but, as these are run voluntarily, they are often the centres of the community. This is a lively restaurant with many tables crammed close, and a welcoming atmosphere. They do excellent lunches with hearty portions of traditional dishes. This is the place to get a basket of the real crusty Alentejana bread. Rua da Seara Nova 4, 7780-163 Castro ,, Verde +351 286 327 168 37.7035, -8.0845 sY

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16 RESTAURANTE O MOINHO, ALMODÔVAR A rustic restaurant, decorated with old farming tools. Wooden chairs and chequered tablecloths. The menu is based on dishes of the day, all regional dishes with homely variations. The grilled Alentejo pork abanicos or secretos, with chips, rice and salad, is a good choice, or try the stewed wild boar. Try the paio sausages to start. Great desserts and local Alentejo wines. Rua do Arco 38B, 7700-055 Almodôvar ,, +351 286 400 156, Restaurantemoinho.pt 37.5118, -8.0595 sYe

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17 RESTAURANTE O BRASILEIRO, MÉRTOLA Despite its name, this restaurant focuses on local produce to cook regional dishes. The menu is seasonal and includes wild asparagus with migas and pork ribs, wild partridge (perdiz açorda) and slow-cooked wild boar stew. For pudding try sopa dourada or the torrão real. The wines are local and excellent. Cerro de São Luís, 7750-296 Mértola ,, +351 286 612 660 37.6432, -7.6581 sYe

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wilder campsites 18 ALQUEVA RURAL CAMPING, PEDROGÃO As the Guadiana river continues its course south after the Alqueva dam, there is this farm with a camping and caravan park. Baby goats gambol under rare Miranda do Douro donkeys. Horses and llamas, black pigs, rabbits, ducks and peacocks all bring a happy energy to this small but vital farm. You can visit just to see the animals or stay the night,

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waking up to a cockerel calling dawn across the hills. Don’t forget to visit Solomon’s Throne, a natural seat in some of the giant rocks that litter the farmland. SE of Pedrogão, off the N258. 7960 ,, Pedrogão do Alentejo +351 213 552 070, Dosdin.pt 38.1173, -7.6352 sgh*d 19 CAMPING BARRAGEM MONTE DA ROCHA This is a jolly and basic campsite but it does have amazing sunsets over the reservoir, stunning Elysian views and swimming access to the water. Situated off the N261-4, W of the reservoir. ,, Barragem Monte da Rocha, Ourique +351 962 064 323 37.7173, -8.3021 s1gd

luxury havens 20 MONTE DA CORTE LIGEIRA An exquisite and luxurious guesthouse on an ancient Alentejo farm. Encircled by 250ha with cork oak montados, you can fish in several dams on the estate, hunt, taste the local wines, take a pony ride or a refreshing dip in the pool. 7800-631 Cabeça Gorda, Beja ,, +351 284 947 216 37.9024, -7.8268 esgY 21 HERDADE DOS GROUS A magnificent county estate hotel with olive groves, cork oak forests and vineyards. They make wine, olive oil and keep seven horses for guests. There is very little they don’t do – there is even a lake in the grounds. Take IP2/E802 N from Albernoa; 2km after ,, crossing the river, follow signs L for Turismo Rural. 7800-601 Albernoa, Beja +351 284 960 000, Herdade-dos-grous.com 37.8790, -7.9410 z1sYg 22 MONTE GOIS COUNTRY HOUSE & SPA Hidden in the Serra do Mú is this exquisite retreat. A typical Alentejo house has been renovated with plenty of hammocks, daybeds, a pool, colourful gardens and a spa. They serve glorious breakfasts with fruits, cakes, hams and cheeses, honeys and local breads. This is a zen environment. Come to be in touch with nature. From Almodôvar head S for 13km, turn R ,, just before Fonte Ferrenhas de Cima, follow dirt track keeping L for 3km. Monte Gois 212, 7700 Almodôvar +351 967 064 146, Montegois.com 37.4323, -8.0940 1sg*Ye

27 26

Setubal

24 20 Setúbal 32 3 30 11 5 6 15

6 9

28 22 17 8 34

Évora Evora

10 26

16 21 Alcáçovas

28 2333

Aguiar

14 31 Mourão

Viana do Alentejo

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6 Cuba

p185

p203

14 11 8

Região do Alentejo

Moura

1318 10

Beja São Domingos Serpa Aljustrel

40 5

27 14 515 19 3 22

p221

Ourique

15 Castro Verde 12

Odemira

32 19 2 39 30 33

17 9

Mértola

8 7 6 25 429 34 35 18 926 28

16 1

Almodôvar

22 11 10

17 37

p229

Monchique

17 15 2425

p237

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costa vicentina Our perfect weekend ,,Sail down the winding Mira river and watch for kingfishers and kestrels ,,Slow your pace as you go donkey-trekking along the Rota Vicentina ,,Follow ancient sailors’ steps down to deep sea behind Fortaleza de Belixe ,,Dash under the waterfall at the secret beach Praia da Amália ,,Bunk down under old eaves in the timeless rural village of Pedralva ,,Jump from a rope swing into the deep green river at Pego das Pias ,,Watch for baby storks in nests on the wind-torn cliffs of Cabo Sardão ,,Skinny dip in the Santa Clara lake with water so clear you can see your toes in the moonlight ,,Feast on fresh fish at Porto das Barcas and watch the boats come into harbour ,,Unwind by gentle fountains at Cerro da Borrega country house

It is said that to get to know Portugal “you must feel the earth under your feet”. Walking the Rota Vicentina, a 400km signed walking route from Cabo de São Vicente along the Alentejo coast up to Santiago de Cacém, is one way to do this. The route comprises old fishermen’s trails and smugglers’ tracks which, by their very nature, follow this coastline. Pass secret beaches, accessible only at low tide or by steep tracks running down. Perilous paths fork away from the advised Rota, too risky for any but the fisherman’s dog.

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Praia da Amália is one of these beaches accessible only from a narrow track. Portugal’s most famous rags-to-riches figure, the orange-seller turned Fado singer Amália, would escape from Lisbon to this beach. Her house is still hidden above what used to be her private cove where she learnt to swim. A freshwater cascade tumbles onto the sand from the hills, offering a natural shower after a salty swim. Slightly further north along the Rota Vicentina is Praia do Alvorião, with daunting access down narrow fishermen’s steps. Praias Machado and Carvalhal offer further wild blue sea coves along the trail. Slow the pace further and take a donkey-trek along this wild coast; with your supplies packed in panniers, you can go for a few days. Attune yourself to your peaceful donkey and see the coast as ancient people before.

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Inhabited since prehistory and protohistory, Costa Vicentina has retained the interest of curious and adventurous people down the ages. This borderland is fraught with the past, the most south-westerly peninsular of Europe, the last shape sailors could see as they departed for foreign lands, and the first emerging on their return. From behind cliff-top Fortaleza de Belixe, follow the ghostly way of long-gone sailors down rocky steps to a silent cove. Waves lap against the last step. Here is water deep enough for a heavy ship to drop anchor.

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Moorish castles and Christian fortresses line this coast, and far-flung monasteries, built by those who survived the sea, are now themselves falling into the sea. There is a constant battle between the land and sea, a slap and pull of the tide but also the thundering, elemental clamour for survival. In the midst of all this, at Cabo Sardão atop a cliff rock, a stork has its nest, withstanding the 150kph wind. 214

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wild swims 1 PEGO DAS PIAS Large sculptural rocks plunge into a green, slow river. A wild place off-season, with rope swings the only sign of human intervention. From Odemira take N120 for São Luís. At ,, Reguengo Pequeno, R and follow track for 200m following signs to Pego das Pias. Park at the fork. 10 mins, 37.6452, -8.6187 1qTh* 2 RIO MIRA A sleepy riverbank with a boardwalk out from Odemira. At the steps to the river, a boat once passed twice daily. Folklore tells of the modas or plaintive love songs sung over the river on days no boat passed. Enter Odemira by N120; park by petrol ,, station at the roundabout. Walk to the riverbank and follow the wooden walkway L. 2 mins, 37.5980, -8.6452 W1

secret beaches 3 PRAIA DE CAVALEIRO A secret sandy cove with crashing waves and dramatic rock strata in wet charcoal greys. The Rota Vicentina passes by here, a lovely

spot for a dip in the clear blue sea. From Porto das Barcas take the CM1158 N ,, for 7km, turn L at signs for Cabo Sardão and follow to lighthouse. Park and walk 1km down dirt track to R until wooden rail and track down to the beach. 3 mins, 37.6057, -8.8158 o1zh 4 PRAIA DA AMÁLIA, BREJÃO The famous Fado singer Amália had her retreat here: a secret beach where she could learn to swim. Shower in the fresh waterfall after a salty swim. Accessible by a small track or hike on Rota Vicentina (see 16). From Brejão take the coast road towards ,, Azenha do Mar. At the yellow flower sign turn R down track though raspberry fields. Park outside Amália’s house. L downhill and follow the track to the beach. 5 mins, 37.4828, -8.7941 o1=z6 5 PRAIA DA FRANQUIA, VILA NOVA DE MILFONTES Next to the old town by the river mouth is a sandy beach, protected by the curve of the Mira, hidden from the sea waves. From Forte in Vila Nova de Milfontes take ,, the coastal road in the direction of Praia do Farol. Parking near the beach bar.

5 mins, 37.7220, -8.7879 1kq 6 PRAIA DO MACHADO, CARVALHAL A secret sandy cove known only to locals. The rock promontory is known as Casteloa-Velha, popular with fishermen. Try the small sweet white gorse berries, eaten raw in autumn, known as camarinhas. Access from cliffs is difficult. From Brejão go to Carvalhal, L opposite the ,, camping park, pass the greenhouses, through the tunnel, park after R turn. Follow Rota Vicentina signs to first cove. 5 mins, 37.4927, -8.7934 1oz6h*v 7 PRAIA DO CARVALHAL A hidden cove with a sandy beach when the tide is out. Great cliffs shelter you from larger waves. From Praia do Machado (see 6) walk N along ,, Rota Vicentina to next cove. 10 mins, 37.4998, -8.7925 1o 8 PRAIA DO ALVORIÃO, CARVALHAL Quiet and secluded beach as access is hard. Sandy, rocks underwater. There is a fishermen’s route via some steps on the south. Take care.

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XX 10 See Praia do Machado (6), and follow Rota ,, Vicentina signs N to 3rd cove. 15 mins, 37.5035, -8.7918 1ovh

surf & sail 9 PRAIA DE ODECEIXE A beach bordered on three sides by water as river meets sea. Even on stormy days you can find calm water here if you follow inland to the river beach. From Odeceixe follow signs towards Praia. ,, Parking at the beach. 5 mins, 37.4419, -8.7967 1kq

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10 PRAIA DA ARRIFANA Five sandstone cliffs like orange giants slope down to this sheltered cove. A good restaurant before the long steps down. Popular in summer. Deserted from autumn. From Aljezur take the N120 S, R at the ,, brown sign to Arrifana. Follow to beach. 10 mins, 37.2942, -8.8657 1s 11 PRAIA DO MONTE CLĂ&#x2030;RIGO, ALJEZUR Long beach when tide is out. Good for surfers and strong swimmers. A few restaurants and snack bars for a beer

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nearby. Easy access to Rota Vicentina up the cliffs. From Aljezur take N120 south and R at ,, brown sign to Mte ClĂŠrigo. Follow signs. 5 mins, 37.3409, -8.8538 1zs 12 PRAIA DO CASTELEJO, VILA DO BISPO A cove at the end of a valley. A popular surfing spot on one side of the massive rock which rises out of the water like a Henry Moore sculpture. A couple of fishermen stationed on it. Beach deserted beyond this rock. From Vila do Bispo follow signs at the ,, roundabout for Castelejo. 10 mins, 37.1003, -8.9451 1o 13 PRAIA DA BORDEIRA A good family beach with a river and 4km of dunes. Busy in summer. From Vila do Bispo take N268 N towards ,, Aljezur. After 14km, L at the brown sign for Bordeira and follow to beach. 5 mins, 37.1998, -8.9010 1qk 14 DUCA BOAT RIDES Take a boat inland to Odemira from the coast and you will follow the Mira river, the cleanest in Portugal, as rich in history as in

XX 17 wildlife. Trace the ancient trading path and look out for osprey, herons and kingfishers. Pickup at the harbour in Vila Nova de ,, Milfontes. Call Rui: +351 969 372 176, Duca.pt 2 hrs, 37.7231, -8.7801 D2 15 SURF MILFONTES Get to grips with the board and the wild ocean with Felipe and Pedro. Passionate, patient and wave-wise teachers. Also calmer canoeing trips along the River Mira. Rua Custódio Brás Pacheco 38A, Vila ,, Nova de Milfontes +351 914 732 652, Surfmilfontes.com 2.5 hrs, 37.7278, -8.7783 1qo2

wild walks 16 ROTA VICENTINA Explore secret beaches, wild cliffs and smugglers’ routes along this 400km signed coastal walking route along the Alentejo coast. It begins in Cabo São Vicente and splits into the inland Historical Way and the coastal Fishermen’s Way, ending in Porto Covo or Santiago de Cacém. Strap on your pilgrim boots to walk part or the whole stretch. Contact Casas Brancas (19) for top quality rural accommodation, donkey walks

or great restaurants along the way. The way is signed from Cabo São Vicente: ,, green/blue for Fishermen’s Way and red/white for Historical Way. Rotavicentina.com 14 days, 37.0245, -8.9942 zo*h6 17 BURROS E ARTES, ALJEZUR Slow the pace and adjust your rhythm to the donkey’s peaceful mood. Sofia leads donkey treks along the coastal paths of Aljezur with a picnic stop along the way. Long walks for 2-7 days can also be organised, you with your donkey, in full communion with nature. Elsa leads workshops in local arts and crafts, pottery, bread-making and weaving. Vale das Amoreiras, Aljezur +351 967 145 ,, 306, Burros-artes.blogspot.com 2 days, 37.3380, -8.7775 zWeqh*x

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harbours & hospitality 18 AZENHA DO MAR A tiny cove where the fishing boats come in. Good crab at Restaurante Azenha do Mar. Near to the shore are two great rocks which locals say look like fighting animals. Behind Bar Palinhas, in their garden, is a lovers’ seat looking out over these rocks and the sea. Perfect for a sunset.

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XX 22 Signs to Azenha do Mar from Brejão. ,, 2 mins, 37.4645, -8.7958 *s 19 CASAS BRANCAS This association, formed by locals, picks the best of the region’s rural houses, farms, traditional restaurants and adventure activities. Ask here for donkey walks, breadmaking workshops or an excellent surfing school. This is thoughtful tourism caring for the region’s culture and nature. Travessa do Botequim 6, 7630-185 ,, Odemira. Casasbrancas.pt 1 min, 37.5987, -8.6449 sg2Ydx

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windswept walks 20 ECOVIA DO LITORAL This is a 214km cycle route which links Cabo de São Vicente in west Algarve with Vila Real de Santo António on the border with Spain. The signed way makes use of existing cycle paths and traffic-calm roads. About half the route is on unpaved and gravel trails, passing coastal nature reserves and small villages. Ciclovia.pt ,, 2 days, 37.0233, -8.9954 ch 20 XX

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21 VIA ALGARVIANA The Via Algarviana is a 300km long-distance walking route, starting at Alcoutim in the north-eastern Algarve, and ending at the south-western tip at Cabo de São Vicente. There are several places you can join this route between Cabo de São Vicente and Alte in western Algarve. It will take you through the Monchique mountains and inland villages away from the bustle of the coast. Maps and info at Viaalgarviana.org. ,, 10 days, 37.0258, -8.9901 ehz

clifftop highs 22 CABO SARDÃO The most westerly point of the Alentejo coast. High winds, tumultuous waves beating the sheer cliffs and, in the midst of chaos, storks building their nests. In spring look out for their young. From Odemira take N393 towards the coast ,, then CM1124 until you see the lighthouse. Park and walk along Rota Vicentina. 2 mins, 37.5986, -8.8170 z6h* 23 FORTALEZA DE BELIXE, SÃO VICENTE Over 100 rock-hewn steps lead down, behind the fort, to the deep blue sea. The last step

XX 24 is water – there is no beach – deep enough to put down anchor. Take a moment and contemplate the cliffs, stillness and birds. Imagine sailors’ first shaky steps back on land. From Sagres take coast road W towards ,, Cabo de São Vicente. Just before São Vicente pass the fort on L. Park and walk down steps. 2 mins, 37.0270, -8.9821 h*e 24 TORRE DE ASPA, VILA DO BISPO Part of an ancient defensive network and the highest point along the Algarve coastline, the Torre de Aspa controlled navigation and helped repel coastal attacks. From this point the alert would be given, with a chain of torches to warn the population. You can see Cabo São Vicente and Sagres from here. From Vila do Bispo take the road running ,, up to the L behind Restaurante A Eira do Mel and follow for 4km following signs to Torre de Aspa. Park by the empty house. 5 mins, 37.0855, -8.9518 *hQ

fresh fish 25 CAFÉ CENTRAL, BREJÃO The best salada de polvo in Portugal or, at least, a great example of the Alentejo way that octopus can be served, with

parsley, salt, onion and virgin olive oil. Mouthwatering local fish dishes and steaks are cooked on the charcoal grill at the back of the restaurant. Brejao, 7630-569 Odemira ,, +351 282 947 419 37.4803, -8.7667 sY 26 TABERNA DO GABÃO, ODECEIXE Choose your fish from the board. An actual board, that is, piled with the fresh, glossy catch. And try the regional sweet potato cake. Rua do Gabão 9, 8670-320 Odeceixe ,, +351 282 947 549 37.4334, -8.7709 sY 27 RESTAURANTE PORTO DAS BARCAS, VILA NOVA DE MILFONTES High up on windswept cliffs, Porto das Barcas specializes in stunning views and great fish. Choose your catch as you enter, fresh from the boats unloading in the harbour below. Try Alentejo cheeses with crisp local wine, octopus salad and fish-rice cooked in a clay pot. Estrada Canal, 7645-000 Vila Nova de ,, Milfontes, Odemira +351 283 997 160 37.7382, -8.8009 sY

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regional treats 28 ESPLANADA DO MAR, ODECEIXE A small café overlooking the beach, selling colourful smoothies and cakes. At Praia de Odeceixe, park by beach, walk ,, towards steps to river beach. Café tucked away R. 8670-325 Praia de Odeceixe +351 937 036 426 37.4410, -8.7973 s1q

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29 RESTAURANTE MIRAMAR Typical joyful Portuguese tasca: a choice of two dishes. House wine, bread baskets and loads of locals. Serradura or sawdust dessert is the mother’s invention: a deliciously rich mousse with biscuit crumbs. Next door to Café Central Brejão (see 25) ,, 37.4806, -8.7670 sYe 30 CHOCOLATES DE BEATRIZ Beatriz has created a small chocolate factory in the hills of Odemira. Inside the house is filled with aromas of dark chocolate. In the garden, nibble on fig, almond or chilli chocolate, looking over golden fields and the river below. Estrada do Cemitério, 7630-999 Odemira ,, +351 283 327 205 37.5950, -8.6438 s6

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slow food 31 RESTAURANTE A EIRA DO MEL, VILA DO BISPO An old farmhouse filled with antiques, and a restaurateur who believes slow food is the best way to feed your soul. Everything from Algarve farmers. Estr. do Castelejo, 8651-999 Vila do Bispo ,, +351 282 639 016 37.0834, -8.9139 sY

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32 RESTAURANTE O TARRO, ODEMIRA A less-than-wild location, opposite Odemira’s petrol station. But it’s close to the river and a great place to try amêijoas na cataplana, clams cooked in a giant copper clam-like pot. A huge array of regional dishes and wines. Estr. da Circunvalação, 7630-130 Odemira ,, +351 283 322 161 37.5989, -8.6451 sY

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33 TASCA DO BERNARDO, ODEMIRA A candlelit, welcoming restaurant with wine barrels and rustic farming paraphernalia. Try the porco preto, grilled pork with pineapple and garlic. Migas de pão Alentejo is a local delight. A beautiful place for an evening feast.

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rustic havens 34 CERRO DA FONTINHA, BREJÃO Old cottages rebuilt in traditional style, reclaimed mahogany beams and sea stones paving the showers. Visit in winter to enjoy woodburners, logs piled outside and bicycles to ride down to deserted beaches nearby. Just outside the village of Brejão, with a biopool in the garden. Fresh eggs, cheeses, fruit and bread left on a little tray by your door for breakfast. A heavenly place. 7630-575 S.Teotónio - Odemira +351 917 ,, 802 588, Cerrodafontinha.com 37.4695, -8.7606 sgYec* 35 CERRO DA BORREGA A new house built in ancient ways: the walls are of rammed earth and there’s an elegant courtyard. Enjoy the sensual side of nature with exquisite breakfasts, time-worn cork trees, tinkling fountains at night and medronho spirit, a fruit brandy, produced here specially for guests. A lavish haven. Vale Juncal, N120 km120, 7630-675 ,, São Teotónio - Odemira +351 966 043 306, Cerrodaborrega.com 37.4738, -8.7240 sYg* 36 MONTE DO ZAMBUJEIRO, VILA NOVA DE MILFONTES Several guesthouses, all with French windows looking out over sweeping mountain views and the winding River Mira. A swimming pool and a reading hammock in the garden. A beautiful place to open windows in the early morning with dawn mists rising. Herdade do Zambujeiro - Monte do ,, Zambujeiro, 7645 Vila Nova de Milfontes +351 283 386 143, Montedozambujeiro.com 37.7079, -8.7521 sY6*g 37 MUXIMA, ALJEZUR A luxurious African-inspired interior for this guesthouse, with a secret attic-library. Magical by candlelight. Daybeds on the veranda, a treehouse further down, bio-pool and woodland paths for children to run wild. Try the medronho fruit jam for breakfast. Montes Ferreiros 265A, Aljezur 8670-000 ,, +351 916 012 830, Muxima-montesferreiros.com 37.3004, -8.7951 sgY*1qzh

38 ALDEIA DA PEDRALVA Unwind and enjoy the village pace in one of these mountain cottages rebuilt by the ebullient owner, António. The loving restoration of this old Portuguese aldeia gives a strong sense, with narrow streets, old eaves and chatting on doorsteps, of what life was like in these hilltop villages. Bicycles for hire. Bobby, António’s big black dog, will accompany hikers along his stretch of Rota Vicentina for a biscuit. Rua de Baixo, Casa da Pedralva, 8650,, 401 Vila do Bispo +351 282 639 342, Aldeiadapedralva.com 37.1408, -8.8618 sgYehc

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39 QUINTA DO CHOCALHINHO, ALDEIA DA BEMPOSTA Stately dark-wood farmhouse with suites set in cork forest, and hills riddled with footpaths. Horses, donkeys and goats graze the hills nearby. A long swimming pool sheltered between the houses and hills. Fresh eggs, local cheeses, fruit and breads for breakfast. Estrada N263 km2, Bemposta, ,, 7630-028 Odemira +351 283 327 280, Quintadochocalhinho.com 37.6007, -8.6212 sYg

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40 TRÊS MARIAS, VILA NOVA DE MILFONTES A remote house with wide views of dusty Alentejo fields and olive groves: a menagerie of pigs, donkeys and sheep, complete with an ostrich, roam their fields. Relax in a hammock listening to the evening birdsong. Delicious dinners, an honesty bar and a delightful breakfast. Ribeira da Azenha, 7645-909 Vila Nova de ,, Milfontes +351 965 666 231, Tresmarias.pt 37.7929, -8.7575 sYg* 41 QUINTA DO BARRANCO DA ESTRADA Hidden in the midst of the Alentejo hills is a remote family-run guesthouse overlooking Santa Clara dam. Welcoming and relaxed, with dogs, log fires and a parrot. Rooms look out to a garden running down to the lake. The lake is so clear you can see your toes in the moonlight. Alentejo here is particularly rich in birdlife and Frank, the host, runs birding holidays – for longer periods or day trips – for twitchers and beginners, with infectious enthusiasm. Quinta do Barranco da Estrada, 7665,, 880 Santa Clara a Velha +351 283 933 065, Paradise-in-portugal.com 37.5322, -8.4425 sYg*hD1

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west algarve: monchique Our perfect weekend ,,Plunge into the cool waters of Queda do Vigário and swim under the pounding waterfall ,,Kayak into Benagil sea caves and glide under their vaulted ceilings ,,Clamber over the rugged limestone sides of Rocha da Pena’s climbing walls ,,Time-travel back to the dinosaurs with footprints left in time at Salema beach ,,Swim in the azure sea by Carvalho beach and explore cliffs riddled with secret passages ,,Discover the secret Convento do Desterro abandoned to the wild, ivy creeps up columns ,,Taste the best grilled fish and sample the local medronho spirit ,,Balance your prayer stone at the summit of Fóia, as the Algarve spreads out like a map below ,,Stay in a farm with mango, persimmon and carob trees at Quinta da Figueirinha

Inland from the central Algarve coast, limestone crags rise up from Barrocal, a land wild with olive, carob and myrtle trees. In autumn, folk here still rattle the olive branches, harvesting the olives in nets laid on the ground. Journey inland to discover a peaceful, farming Algarve attuned to seasonal tasks different to the tourism for which the coast is famous. Rocha da Pena, a hump-backed limestone hill, known here as a barroca, rises up from the Barrocal area to brood over the dusty olive groves below. Caves and grottoes are formed in its weather-beaten sides. Try to find the legendary cave, Algar do Mouro, which is said to have given refuge to fugitives down the ages. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a beautiful spot for a sunset as the last rays catch, turning the rock face orange.

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Westward stand the towering Monchique mountains, with FĂłia, the peak at 902m, an island emerging from clouds covering the hills below. At this summit, pilgrims leave stones balanced in prayerful columns, mariolas, representing a symbolic act of remembrance or unburdening. Lean into the wind, weightless, as your view soars over the Algarve to the dunes marking the border of land and sea.

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Time your trip well and you can find the Algarve coast vastly emptied out of season. Benagil cave, a watery Pantheon with sunlight streaming through a hole in its domed ceiling, is accessible only by sea: take a kayak in the early morning for magical solitude. Praia do Carvalho is also riddled with caves; rock-hewn steps lead down a sandy tunnel to the beach with further cliffcarved caves to explore at low tide. At Praia da Salema, head off the tourist track and discover 125 million-year-old dinosaur footsteps imprinted on the rock, whisking you off to a truly wild era. 7 1 XX

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Follow the coastal walking routes and discover a network of strategically built fortresses. Fortaleza de AlmĂĄdena is a yellow stone ruin looking out to the blue sea, its staircase leading to the sky. Sit in the open chapel and listen to the thunderous waves beneath. Inland, Paderne castle rises imperial; lit by the late sun, its ruins speak of a distant age, the perfect place for sunset dreams.

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sea caves 1 PRAIA DO CARVALHO, BENAGIL A tunnel hewn through rocks leads to the beach. Further up, narrow steps carved into the cliff-side lead to a secret place. Time the tide carefully. Exit N125 on M1154 S, 1.5km W of the ,, Porches junction, and follow signs to Benagil and further W to Carvalho. Parking. 5 mins, 37.0868, -8.4318 o91w 2 BENAGIL CAVES Take a kayak to explore the Algarve’s salty pantheon. Waves lap in on low tide beneath this sun-filled cavern, and blue sky is glimpsed through its high round window. Accessed only by water but you can peer in through the window down from land. Kayaks for hire on beach and in town. Call +351 969 617 828 or find the kiosk at Praia de Benagil. For directions, see Praia do Carvalho (see ,, 1). Park in town and walk down. 5 mins, 37.0870, -8.4238 29 3 PONTA DA PIEDADE Steps down to beautiful rock formations: water-filled womb-like caves, arches and pinnacles of red sandstone.

N125 to Lagos. Follow signs to Praia Dona ,, Ana and then Ponta da Piedade. 5 mins, 37.0798, -8.6685 k*9

secret beaches 4 PRAIA DA BOCA DO RIO A quieter beach where wetlands run down to the coast by the river mouth. From Salema follow signs towards Burgau. ,, Turn R at the T junction (Burgau is L), and head to the coast. 3 mins, 37.0664, -8.8092 h*1o 5 PRAIA DA SENHORA DA ROCHA A windswept chapel on a promontory above; beneath is a shell-strewn beach with crashing waves. Float on your back, ears underwater, listen to the sand shingling. Exit N125 at Porches and follow signs to ,, Senhora da Rocha. Park in town and walk down to the beach. 5 mins, 37.0973, -8.3857 n1q 6 PRAIA DOS ARRIFES Beautiful rocks to swim out and explore. A network of rock pools emerges when the tide is out.

Turn off N125 at Guia, head towards ,, Albufeira, then follow signs to Praia dos Arrifes. 2 mins, 37.0762, -8.2772 k1q 7 PRAIA DAS CABANAS VELHAS, BARRANCÃO A cove enclosed by beautiful orange sandstone cliffs. This sandy beach is popular with surfers due to its wild crashing waves. From Barrancão follow signs to the beach. ,, 2 mins, 37.0656, -8.7949 1ws 8 PRAIA DO CASTELO, EVARISTO Striking, yellow cliffs enclose this sandy cove with deep, blue sea. It can be a popular spot but there are several little rocky coves perfect for exploring. From Albufeira take the M526 W for 6km; ,, turn L at brown signs. Follow for 1km to beach. 2 mins, 37.0731, -8.2986 1qsk 9 PRAIA DA MARINHA Although this beach can get busy in summer, it is snorkelling heaven. There are plenty of nooks and crannies to explore under the clear waves, with countless colourful fish. From Lagoa take the N125 towards ,, Porches, after 2.5km turn R at signs for

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XX 12 Benagil. Follow the M1154 for 3km until a sign for Marinha on your L. 2 mins, 37.0897, -8.4124 1o-k 10 PRAIA DO CANAVIAL, LAGOS A beautiful sandy, naturist-friendly beach with staggering rocks and a calm, glassy sea. Several secret rocky nooks to explore when the tide is out. From Lagos take the coast road to the ,, Farol da Ponta Piedade Lighthouse (37.0810, -8.6693). Park and walk W along the dirt track. 30 mins, 37.0839, -8.6794 1h

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hidden springs 11 SÍTIO DAS FONTES, ESTÔMBAR This is a lovely park, about 18ha, with several places to jump into the River Arade. This is marshland and scrub, a few paths and a couple of ancient watermills. One mill dates back to at least the 15th century. From Estômbar train station it’s a 30 min ,, walk. Or take the road N to Fontes for 1km, turn L at brown sign. 30 mins, 37.1619, -8.4862 zhq1b 13 XX

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12 QUEDA DO VIGÁRIO The name ‘Fall of the Vicar’ conjures beguiling nymphs and heady sunlight. The waterfall and pool, with its deep cool water, flowery banks and a hidden cave, certainly creates the requisite Pre-Raphaelite backdrop. Inside the cave, stalactites drip like hundreds of guttering candles in a longforgotten chapel. From Alte head out along the N124 towards ,, the cemetery; at the roundabout go L and park just by the cemetery. Follow the track downhill until you reach the pool below. 10 mins, 37.2317, -8.1792 =T19 13 ALTE VILLAGE POOLS A quintessential Algarve mountain town with two old stone swimming pools filled by the rivers Fonte Grande and Fonte Pequena. From Loulé take the M525 N to Salir, head ,, W on the N124 to Alte. Arriving at Alte turn R at the sign for Fontes. Park before the bridge. 2 mins, 37.2375, -8.1732 1esg

ancient earth 14 PEGADAS DOS DINOSSÁURIOS, SALEMA At Praia da Salema, low tide reveals tracks left by dinosaurs 125 million years ago.

XX 14 The beach itself is busy but the footsteps, further off E, conjure another, wilder, time. Park uphill to W of Salema beach. Wooden ,, walkway down. 5 mins, 37.0644, -8.8265 nk 15 FÓIA At 902m this is the highest point of the Algarve. Watch as clouds skim over the mountain tops below and the land stretches out from hills behind to the southern coastline beyond. Bring a prayer pebble to place on top of the pilgrim stones, mariolas, left in tiny balanced towers. From Monchique take the N266-3, ,, following signs for Fóia. Park at the church. 5 mins, 37.3154, -8.5924 h*68 16 ROCHA DA PENA Rocha da Pena is a 497m high, steep cornice of very hard limestone rising up out from the Barrocal hills. Its 2km-long plateau is the highest point of the surrounding area and a perfect place for sunset. Its distinct outline is visible from all the surrounding villages and woodland. With luck you might see indigenous Bonelli’s eagles wheeling overhead. Its ravine is about 50m high and, after centuries of erosion, there are

many pockets and caverns. If you want to try climbing there are around 15 climbing sectors linked by a 5km walking trail from the Bar das Grutas in the village of Rocha. Free parking in Rua de Rocha da Pena. From ,, here follow the trail for 1km uphill. 15 mins, 37.2503, -8.0977 h6z

wild ruins 17 CONVENTO DE NOSSA SENHORA DO DESTERRO Abandoned by its sisterhood in the 1755 earthquake, the Convent at Monchique is now a sanctuary for wild things. Spiral staircases lead out into clear air, ivy climbs in, and birds nest in the chancel. In Monchique, park in Largo dos Chorões ,, (37.3180, -8.5566) and walk up the steps to the R side; follow brown signs from the church to the Convento above. 15 mins, 37.3199, -8.5595 8h*e 18 FORTALEZA DE ALMÁDENA Yellow ruins face the blue sea. Arabic arches and perhaps a chapel remain. Sit inside and listen to the birdcall and thunderous waves crashing below. From N125 in Budens, turn S opposite the ,,

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Restaurante Mira Rio, and follow signs to Praia Cabanas Velhas. Fort is signed just before. 2 mins, 37.0673, -8.8044 *h6 19 CASTELO DE PADERNE The 12th century castle glows yellow as its sandstone and rammed earth walls catch the last of the evening sunlight. This Barrocal hill has been a dwelling place since Lusitanian times (1st century BC). Now there is a signed 4km walking trail looping around the castle. From Paderne take the N270 W out of town, ,, pass the church and cross the river and follow signs S to Castelo de Paderne. 2 mins, 37.1570, -8.2005 zh*e6

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20 ABICADA ROMAN RUINS Forgotten Roman ruins are hidden under thickets in this abandoned farm. The 1st century BC villa must once have been a centre of agricultural production, even with its own quay onto the River Alvor. Oncebeautiful mosaics once decorated the floors with goblets, branches, wreaths and stars. Chances are the ruins are overgrown, but it is a lovely spot at sunset and perfect for a picnic or an explore. Turn off the E-bound N125 after Figueira ,, at (37.1619, -8.5952), turning at brown sign to Abicada. Park by railway track, and follow dirt track to the end. 15 mins, 37.1514, -8.5966 he6zWQ

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21 RESERVA RIA DE ALVOR This reserve covers an area of 1,500ha around the salt marshes of Alvor. From its boardwalks along the beach you can see hundreds of flamingos and walk along cliffs at Quinta do Rocha, and inland along the Alvor river. The area is a haven for birdlife. Call ‘A Rocha Life’ (see 22) for birding tours. From Alvor town follow signs to Praia, then ,, Praia Accessivel. Walks begin here. Parking. 30 mins, 37.1234, -8.5962 Dzh1

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22 A ROCHA LIFE BIRDWATCHING A small company of birdwatching enthusiasts who give tours in the wilder places of the Algarve: lagoons, rivers, abandoned salt pans, dunes or beautiful cliffs. Tailored to your time/place. Apartado 41, 8501-903 Mexilhoeira ,, Grande +351 282 968 380, Arochalife.pt 1 day, 37.1444, -8.6079 Dhz 30 XX

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hiking & biking 23 BOCA DO RIO – BURGAU A 5km walking route along the clifftops from Boca do Rio east to Burgau. It is not wonderfully signed but easy to follow and the tracks along the clifftops dip down to the beaches along the way. Begins at Praia da Boca do Rio (see 4) ,, 1 hr, 37.0660, -8.8094 z1oh 24 TRILHO DA FÓIA This 7km signed and circular trail will take you through the Monchique hills past strange stones and beautiful views across the Algarve. Begins and ends at Fóia mountain (see 15). ,, Follow yellow/red markings. 2 hrs, 37.3148, -8.5962 zh

local food 25 RESTAURANTE A CHARRETE, MONCHIQUE Ancient and local recipes in this bustling restaurant. R do Dr Samora Gil 30, 8550-461 ,, Monchique +351 282 912 142 37.3200, -8.5558 sY 26 RESTAURANTE SUL MAR, BENAGIL A jolly owner with a traditional coastal restaurant. Today’s catch brought over to help you choose. Exquisite local food. Enjoy a beer in the sun outside. Near Praia de Benagil, S of Lagoa. Estrada de ,, Benagil, Lagoa 8400-427 +351 964 458 647 37.0926, -8.4302 sY 27 RESTAURANTE ASAGRES A bare-brick, rustic restaurant in Sagres, Portugal’s south-western tip or Land’s End. Surrounded by the sea, this restaurant does not disappoint with its culinary celebration of the sea’s bounty. Try massinha do mar, with fish, clams, shrimp, coriander and a little pasta. Just a light plate of clams is a wonderful treat. Save a space for their lemon mousse or homemade desserts. Along the Ecovia do Litoral cycle path. Av. Infante D Henrique, Sagres ,, +351 282 624 171, A-sagres.com 37.0082, -8.9447 sY 28 QUINTA DOS VALES, ESTÔMBAR A winery and vineyards with beautiful sculptures exhibited throughout their gardens. You are encouraged to enjoy their

wines and art together. The guiding principle here is the age-old symbiosis between wine and art. Here, both certainly create a sense of the impossible made possible. From Estômabar take Rua 20 de Junho ,, E under N125 for 1km. Sítio dos Vales, 8400-031 Estômbar +351 282 431 036, Quintadosvales.eu 37.1497, -8.4763 esgY

surrounded by olive and carob groves with several pools. There is an oddly incongruous but fun hippy Irish bar at the end of the garden. Quinta da Figueirinha, 8300-028 Silves ,, +351 282 440 700, Qdf.pt 37.1861, -8.4059 sgYe

31 QUINTA DO MEL A farmhouse retreat within shooting distance 29 RESTAURANTE TÍPICO PONTE ROMANA, of the coast at Praia de Falésia, west of SILVES Vilamoura. The farm grows and brews an A quirky restaurant whose rustic decor and array of teas and herbs. Sweet smells of collection of little sewing machines have warm carob bread fill the hall. On the terrace, 15 transformed the space almost to a museum. 514 watch the moon rise beneath twinkling stars, Overlooks the Roman bridge and Arade darkness untouched by town lights. river from the south. If they have açorda de Quinta Do Mel, 8201-925 Albufeira ,, bachalau on, try this delicious brothy cod+351 289 543 674, Quintadomel.com fish stew with chunks of local bread. 37.0981, -8.1626 sgYe 1 Parque Ribeirinho de Silves, 8300-131 ,, Silves +351 282 443 275 32 QUINTA DO FREIXO 22 37.1863, -8.4375 esY Odemira Stay on a working farm with fig orchards,

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rustic havens 30 QUINTA DA FIGUEIRINHA, SILVES Mango, pomegranate and persimmon trees 8 hang their branches over the terrace. The 6 farmhouse is set in quiet countryside,

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cork and pine 33woodland, sheep and barley fields. Jams, honeys and carob bread for breakfast. A little W of Rocha da Pena. R de Quinta do ,, 41 Freixo, Benafim-Loulé, 8100-352 Benafim +351 289 472 185, Quintadofreixo.org 29 35 -8.1235 sgeY 34 37.2610,

wilder campsites 33 SALEMA ECO-CAMP SURF & NATURE A beautiful, green campsite surrounded by the wildlife and flora of the natural park of south-west Alentejo. This camping park is in a naturist-friendly zone near several beaches. Will organise surfing/kayaking/ bike activities here and more. Praia da Salema, 8650-196 Budens ,, +351 282 695 201, Salemaecocamp.com 37.0752, -8.8309 21ohcg

34 QUINTA DE ODELOUCA Camp out under the stars in this rural campsite surrounded by the peaceful hills on 19 the Algarve/Alentejo border. The Odelouca river is within walking distance. 15 Castro From São Marcos da Serra take the ,, 1 M542 S for 3.5km. +351 282 361718, Ourique Quintaodelouca.com 37.3395, -8.3741 h1g

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east algarve: faro Our perfect weekend ,,Follow springs, streams and rivers through the lush Benémola woodland ,,Paint your bodies with the mineral-rich mud of the Agua Mae salt flats along the Guadiana river ,,Stand and wonder at the carved menhirs of Lavajo, set in place on the hills by pre-Celtic ancestors ,,Watch for the hundreds of visiting flamingos at the salt marshes of the River Formosa ,,Run along the deserted sandy beaches of Ilha da Barreta ,,Feast on caldeirada da patarôxa, rich dogfish stew, at Olhão harbour ,,Stargaze from your tent by the anchor cemetery at Ilha de Tavira ,,Lace up your pilgrim boots and trek inland through dusty olive groves along the Via Algarviana

The coastline of the eastern Algarve is characterised by a 50km-long network of sun-drenched dunes and barrier islands which protect the marshes and flooded areas of Ria Formosa from the open sea. Small fishing boats navigate between sea and lagoon through the barras, small inlets between the sandy islands. The region has always depended on coastal and deep-sea fishing, the gathering of molluscs, especially the delicious amêijoa da ria or lagoon clam, and salt extraction. Castro Marim with its towering medieval castle, near the Guadiana river mouth, was a Phoenician stopping point and is still surrounded by shimmering salt pans. Roman fish-salting tanks can be found at the forgotten remains of Balsa, near Tavira, a once-heaving port city of the empire.

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The migration of birds is particularly visible at the salt pans near the River Formosa, a wonderful place to see hundreds of flamingos. In this area, the frontier between two continents, the lagoons offer birds a stopping point on journeys that for some, like sandpipers, reach as far as the Arctic tundra. XX 5

Walk the deserted sands of Ilha Barreta and contemplate the coastline, this meeting point between worlds, with its cycles of sea and land. The chapel, shrines, churches, watchtowers and fortresses that animate the coast, continue inland to wilder reaches of the lesser-known Algarve. Here the mountainous terrain of Loulé county runs parallel to the Atlantic coastline and reaches its peak in the Serra do Caldeirão mountain range. Cut inland from the coast, and the hills begin to rise with their wild rosemary, cork, olive, carob, oak and chestnut trees. There are also several springs inland. Fonte Benémola was said to have healing powers and still today miraculously gives water in even the most arid months. Gnarly roots reach the water and, while perhaps not a remedial spring, the water-rich habitat is a haven for kingfishers, moorhens and herons along with frogs, newts and salamanders. The surrounding woodland contains many trails and hidden spots for a river swim or a picnic.

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My favourite thing for a picnic is some fresh bread with a smoked sausage, o chouriço, from one of the surrounding mountain towns. The aldeia Tôr has a festival in January dedicated to smoked meats. It’s the perfect amalgam of a land blessed with water, rich vegetation and a love of good food. 232

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rivers & waterfalls 1 RIBEIRA DE ALGIBRE In the foothills of Barrocal, just outside the small farming village of Tôr, is this small river crossed by a medieval arched bridge. There is access to a shingle bank and the water is clear, deepening under the bridge. From Aldeia da Tôr take Rua Principal S, ,, turn L on M524 and follow first R until river. 2 mins, 37.1898, -8.0275 hz1e 2 FONTE BENÉMOLA, QUERENÇA Several springs in this natural park flow into the Benémola stream, which was once said to have miraculous healing properties. It is certainly still healing for the surrounding woodland as, even in the hottest, driest months, it gives water to the green vegetation. It remains miraculous in that the spring can produce over four million litres of water an hour. Green light filters through the leaves and gnarly roots bend into the stream. There are several signed walkways through the woods. From Loulé take the N396 to Querença, ,, follow brown signs to Fonte Benémola. Park at the entrance and walk. 30 mins, 37.2086, -8.0092 hzW1

3 PRAIA FLUVIAL DO PEGO FUNDO A beautiful river beach with sandy banks in the meanders of the Cadavais stream just before it joins the widening River Guadiana. Follow brown signs from the centre of ,, Alcoutim. Parking. 5 mins, 37.4721, -7.4768 1kWsq

boats and fishermen. Nice for a quiet paddle or swim in shallow water. Turn into the aldeia from the N125 ,, (signposted in Marim), head straight down and cross the railway, continue to the water’s edge. Park at the small pier. 1 min, 37.0364, -7.7963 1

4 PEGO DO INFERNO A waterfall dashes out between rocks and knotted vegetation into a deep green pool. Formed by the River Asseca before it joins the River Gilão, this swim spot is just inland from the Tavira coast. Several legends surround its depths: that a wagon and rider fell in but their bodies never surfaced, that secret flooded cavities lead to the River Guadiana and that the bottom can never be touched. The place suffered fire damage in 2012 but is gradually recovering. From Asseca take M514-2 for 2km until ,, crossroads. Turn L then R after 10m. Park here, then walk. 2 mins, 37.1553, -7.6960 =T1

6 ILHA DA FUSETA A relaxed waterfront with hundreds of small fishing vessels, a bar and sandy walks out to the island at low tide. Sandbanks create shallow swims with warm water, making it perfect for children. From Olhão take the N125 E, and after 7km ,, turn R following signs for Fuseta. Parking. 10 mins, 37.0512, -7.7437 q1

islands & harbours 5 ALDEIA DE MARIM Quiet lapping waves and waterfront with tiny

7 ILHA DA BARRETA Also known as Ilha da Deserta, this is one of the wilder islands around the Ria Formosa Natural Reserve. You can gather shells or conches along this 7km coastal strip, also a haven for birdlife. A signed, circular 3km walk begins at the jetty. Easily reached from Faro: regular ferries ,, from Porta Nova pier. 30 mins, 36.9692, -7.9245 h1Dz!

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XX 10 8 ILHA DE TAVIRA Sea winds sing through the pine trees lining the edge of a narrow railway track and footpath leading to this island. The wilder side, beyond the anchor graveyard, is Praia do Barril, which is a naturist beach. From Tavira head W on the N125, after 7km ,, turn L at signs for Ilha de Tavira and park along the road. Walk down to the bridge, cross and continue along the track. 15 mins, 37.0842, -7.6659 1z.

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9 SETE FONTES WALKING TRAIL A 9km signed, circular walking trail which, as the name suggests, passes seven springs. A beautiful walk through the dappled green Barrocal hills and into the protected woodland of Benémola. The way passes deep wells, and follows the Menalva stream to Benémola spring. From there it passes Olho waterfall and underground mines supplying water at Cerca Nova. The walk ends with the seventh fountain at Fonte da Silva and mountain views from Corcitos. It passes the Querença hunting grounds, so take care on days when hunting is permitted: Thursdays, Sundays and public holidays. From Loulé head towards Querença until ,, you see a sign to Salir, where you turn R. Pass the village of Corcitos and after 300m walk is signed on your R. 2.5 hrs, 37.2183, -7.9974 1hez3 10 VIA ALGARVIANA The Via Algarviana is a 300km long-distance walking route starting at Alcoutim in the north-eastern Algarve and ending in the south-western tip at Cabo de São Vicente. There are several places you can join this

route between Alcoutim and Salir in Eastern Algarve. It will take you along the Guadiana river and into the rugged hills of Loulé, passing the ancient menhirs of Lavajo, magical woodland and traditional villages. Begin at the pier in Alcoutim. Maps and ,, information at Viaalgarviana.org. 10 days, 37.4718, -7.4710 ehz 11 BARRANCO DO VELHO WALKING TRAIL This 5km signed, circular route takes you through the cork plantations or montados that dominate the Serra do Caldeirão mountain range. Enjoy stunning views of this area. There is also a little handicraft shop in the village with gifts based on cork, clay and honey, as well as medronho spirit. Take the N124 into Barranco do Velho and ,, park outside Gabinete Técnico Florestal. 2 hrs, 37.2366, -7.9377 6hzes 12 GUADIANA ROUTE GR15 This is a 65km signed and linear route that follows the Guadiana from Alcoutim to its mouth at Vila Real de Santo António. Here it connects with the Ecovia do Litoral (see p218). The route takes in the three Algarve terrains of coastal landscape, Barrocal limestone and the northern mountains. It has

XX 14 many picnic spots, views and river dips along the way. Follow yellow signage from the harbour ,, at V.R de Santo António (37.1967, -7.4145) or from Alcoutim (37.4715, -7.4725). 3 days, 37.4715, -7.4725 czh1

birdlife & wetlands 13 AGUÁ MAE, CASTRO MARIM You can take a mud bath in the mineralrich clay of the Guadiana and ancient salt flats within the Marshland Nature Reserve of Castro Marim and Vila Real de Santo António. The traditional flor de sal , salt crystals, are gathered here. Salinas de Castro Marim N122, 8950 ,, Castro Marim +351 965 404 888, Aguamae.pt 2 mins, 37.2138, -7.4361 e 14 RIA FORMOSA NATURAL PARK Explore the pine forest and salty wetlands home to egrets, storks, curlews and flamingos, to name but a few. There is also a restored tidal mill and several walking paths to choose. From Olhão take N125 E and turn R after ,, the campsite. Follow brown signs. Parking. 40 mins, 37.0339, -7.8192 qDz

15 BALSA There is little to be seen here in terms of ruins, but a magic stillness hangs over the air of this once-bustling Roman port now given over to the birdlife of the Ria Formosa lagoons and salt marshes. From Luz de Tavira take the road to the ,, station and park. Cross the tracks carefully and walk down the road opposite for 700m to the riverbank. 15 mins, 37.0830, -7.6970 bhD

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16 MENIRES DO LAVAJO Three carved menhirs, dating to around 3,500BC, stand on Lavajo hill just outside Alcoutim. Whether they designate ancient farming territory or sacred space, they command respect. Follow signs from Alcoutim; at signs for the ,, ceramic factory turn L, follow the dirt track, taking the R fork along PR route. Parking. 10 mins, 37.5016, -7.5349 Qh*

battlements with views over the reflective salt flats below. Visit in August for a huge medieval re-enactment festival with street theatre, banquets and music. Follow signs from Castro Marim to the ,, castle; parking outside. 2 mins, 37.2189, -7.4418 qeQ

17 CASTELO DE CASTRO MARIM This medieval castle was once a marooned island where ships could drop anchor. Now you can explore the ruins, chambers and

18 BELICHE DE CIMA A tiny aldeia , typical of the Algarve farming community unchanged for generations. Winding lanes and enduring hills, a perfect

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place for a walk in the wild. From Tavira take the N397 N for 20km. Turn ,, onto the M506 after Portela de Corcha and follow for 4.5km. 2 mins, 37.2643, -7.6654 ezh 19 CACELA VELHA An old fishing village on a hill overlooking the Ria Formosa lagoons. There was once a 10th century Moorish castle here, but the current fortress is 18th century. At the right side of the church, follow the ,, steps down straight into the park. Visit in mid-July for the Noites da Moura Encantada festivities with music, street food and artists paying tribute to its Arabic heritage. 2 mins, 37.1599, -7.5462 es

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local food 20 RESTAURANTE DE QUERENÇA A mix of regional Alentejano and Algarve dishes. Cosy inside, with nooks and small tables. There are local variations on regional dishes such as galinho cerejada, chicken stewed with chouriço, bacon and parsley, cherem com fritada de porco preto, black pig with tortilla, feijoada de javali, wild boar stew, as well as a good selection of local wines. Largo da Igreja 1, Querença, Loulé ,, +351 917 368 108 37.1988, -7.9871 sY

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21 RESTAURANTE VISTA FORMOSA, OLHÃO This is the locals’ restaurant where fish is grilled outside in the courtyard as everyone sits at covered tables. Try the caldeirada da patarôxa, a brothy dogfish stew; it’s delicious. If you’re lucky the chef might bring you a bowl of xerém, a maize-porridge made with fish stock. Just down the road from the entrance to ,, the Ria Formosa Natural Park (Olhão side) (see 14). Pinheiros de Marim, 8700 Olhão-Marim 37.0329, -7.8221 sYq

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22 CANTARINHA DA GUADIANA A great mix of regional dishes, with the signature Algarve orange and coriander garnishes, at this rural restaurant overlooking the Guadiana river. 9.5km S of Alcoutim. Rua da Laranjeiras 26, ,, 8970-029 Alcoutim +351 281 547 196 37.4031, -7.4579 sYh 23 FESTA DE SÃO LUÍS, TÔR The ancient village of Tôr, in the foothills of the Barrocal mountains, comes alive for this

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feast day to the patron saint of animals, São Luís. In true Portuguese spirit, the animals are celebrated with a festival to chouriço, smoked sausages. Everyone, visitors and villagers alike, is invited to the open church eucharist and afterwards to try a chouriço, drizzled with local wine. Late January. Aldeia da Tôr, Loulé ,, 37.1954, -8.0350 sYe 24 OLHÃO FISH MARKET A buzzing fish market with hundreds of choices from today’s catch, all at a good price. Located at Olhão harbour. Av. 5 de Outubro, 8700-515 Olhão ,, 37.0238, -7.8406 sq 25 NUNO’S BAR AND GRILL A simple traditional bar and grill facing the harbour in Fuseta but they do serve an excellent sopa da pedra (stone soup). R. Gen. Humberto Delgado C, 8700-011 ,, Fuseta +351 289 791 499 37.0537, -7.7463 s6

rustic havens 26 FAZENDA NOVA An elegant retreat, 9km north of Fuseta, with a mischievously curated art and design collection. The ten-suite house is surrounded by cleverly designed gardens with secret paths leading to wilder olive groves. This is an upmarket retreat in harmony with nature. The olive oil they produce has an intense flavour and is a real elixir to match the haven they have created. Estiramantens, Santo Estevao, 8800-504 ,, Tavira, +351 281 961 913, Fazendanova.eu 37.1211, -7.7553 sYhg 27 CASA DE CAMPO DO VALE DO ASNO A beautiful family-run farmhouse with ten rooms in the uplands of wilder Algarve, 5km north of Vila Nova de Cacela. Bedroom doors open out to a flower-filled garden with a biological pool and views over the hills. Vila Nova, Vale do Asno-Castro Marim ,, +351 918 778 902, Casacampovaledoasno.pt 37.2068, -7.5295 sh6 28 HERDADE DA CORTE A grand but welcoming country estate, some 15km north-west of Tavira. It has a highceilinged hall, fireplaces, swimming pool and terraces complete with elegant daybeds, all surrounded by spectacular views across the wooded valley. Monthly jazz and blues

nights are held here with live bands, popular for locals and guests, but it’s also a perfect place for stargazing with a glass of wine. Sitio da Corte, 8800-166 Tavira ,, +351 281 971 625, Herdadedacorte.com 37.1620, -7.7425 eh6sY*

farms & camping 29 QUINTA DAAlmodôvar FORNALHA A holistic and sustainable eco-farm just 16 outside Castro Marim, run by a family

whose ancestors moved here 250 years ago. 30 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO DA ILHA DE There are several guesthouses from which TAVIRA 917 Mértola to choose, surrounded by orange trees, A simple campsite surrounded by dunes on gardens and farmland. Organic products, this long island stretching away from Ria fruit, vegetables and homemade food all on Formosa. Wake at dawn for a swim and stroll offer. A voluntary programme also available along the deserted sandy beaches. in exchange for accommodation with tasks Ilha de Tavira, 8800 Tavira ,, such as building shelter for animals, labelling +351 281 320 580, Cm-tavira.pt products or painting. 37.1135, -7.6210 kq1gs Quinta da Fornalha, 8950-186 Castro Marim ,, +351 917 107 147, Quinta-da-fornalha.com 37.1986, -7.4832 hegsq p211

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Alcoutim

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32 16

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p229

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Loulé

17 13 Vila Real de Santo António

19 Tavira

30 15

Faro

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açores Our perfect weekend ,,Bounce over the waves to Ilhéu de Vila, a moon-shaped crater filled by the sea and hundreds of colourful fish ,,Dash between the waves at the tidal pools of Calhetas ,,Skinny dip in the volcanic crater lagoon, Lagoa Azul ,,Dig your toes deep into the black sand of Praia da Amora ,,Wild camp under the stars at São Jorge and listen to the ocean tide ,,Forage for wild clams at Fajã de Santo Cristo ,,Climb to Portugal’s highest peak at Pico Island ,,Spot silent, gliding whales beneath the sea at Ilha do Faial ,,Feast on cauldrons of steaming alcatra stew poured over sweet bread ,,Soak in the tidal pools at Ferraria warmed by volcanic energy and canopied by stars ,,Dive into the sea from the pumice rock just off Ribeira das Tainhas beach ,,Taste the healing waters that sparkle effervescent from Furnas

The Açores archipelago comprises nine volcanic islands some 1,400km west of mainland Portugal. Isolated in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, they are open to everything that nature hurls their way. Over time, this has given the Açoreans a strong, mystical, almost divine bond with the wild. Remember, these islands were formed by explosions of elemental force and you can still discover sulphuric steam issuing from volcanic vents. There are marvellous black rocks and soaring cliffs, but also hidden waterfalls, blue lagoons and oceans with dark depths, home to whales and dolphins.

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At Furnas on the island of São Miguel, muddy clay bubbles, pops and hisses within the crater. Locals bury pots of cozido stew in the steaming earth which slow-cooks it to perfection in this wild kitchen. Sulphuric fountains, some sparkling and others sweet, spring from the earth and mingle in healing bathing pools. Sit close enough to the steaming Pêro Botelho fumarole and you can hear Earth’s heartbeat. The ancient energy of the islands resides in a sense of things bubbling under the surface. Tidal pools are warmed by volcanic energy on the wild Ferraria coast on São Miguel. Visit at night to swim in a dark pool under the stars, warm as a bath, and feel the tug and give of the ocean. This submerged energy surfaces in Açorean legends. Some claim the Açores as the location for the lost island of Atlantis, others that the beautiful lagoon of Sete Cidades and its crowning peaks are all that survive of a flooded kingdom. Perhaps such myths took root with the brief emergence of a tenth island, Sabrina, along with immense clouds of smoke, in 1811. A Union Jack flag was hoisted, the island’s ownership was disputed and, after two months, arguments were resolved as it sunk back into the sea.

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Even the food resembles volcanoes, from the delicious barnacles and limpets like fresh, salty craters, and alcatra stews bubbling in earthen pots, to the cozido stew tasting of sulphur. On the island of Pico, Verdelho grapes are ripened under walls of volcanic stone. At sunset, relax with a glass of white wine and look out across your island, resembling a sleeping dragon, nose pointing out to sea.

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tidal pools 1 PISCINAS NATURAIS, SÃO MIGUEL These tidal pools are formed along the coast, just outside Calhetas, in the lava frozen midflow before the sea. The water is crystal clear as there is no sand. Step inside, between the waves, at low tide for a glorious swim. In Calhetas follow signs to Piscinas Naturais ,, and then signs to Zona Balnear. 10 mins, 37.8238, -25.6064 1h 2 PISCINAS NATURAIS CANEIROS, SÃO MIGUEL Tidal pools formed by the volcanic rock along the coast. Some of the pools get very deep, make sure you come at low tide when they are calm. Great for wild waves at high tide. Sunbathe on the warm rocks to dry off. From Mosteiros walk 300m N along the coast. ,, 3 mins, 37.8981, -25.8222 16 3 BISCOITOS, TERCEIRA Volcanic rocks form wild sculptural forms and tidal pools on the N coast of Terceira. From Biscoitos town take the road down ,, towards the beach. 2 mins, 38.8027, -27.2571 1

4 POÇA DO SIMÃO DIAS, SÃO JORGE The lava field of Fajã do Ouvidor along the N coast of São Jorge is slowly eroding. Many caves and grottoes have been formed as the sea encroaches on the rocks, as well as tidal pools, the largest of which is Poça de Simão Dias. The water is deep and crystal clear, perfect for a wild dive and snorkelling. From the village of Norte Grande head W to ,, the coast. 10 mins, 38.6786, -28.0552 -To91 5 SANTA CRUZ DA GRACIOSA Several tidal pools in the volcanic rocks provide sheltered swims. Nearby is a small fishing harbour. Take the N1-2 into Santa Cruz da Graciosa ,, and turn towards the coast after Rent-a-CarGraciosa. 1 min, 39.0872, -28.0073 1h 6 CARAPACHO, GRACIOSA A 19th century spa by the sea with warm, sulphurous water (between 36C and 40C) which has been used for rheumatism and skin diseases down the ages. There are also tidal pools, open to all, with crystal clear water. Rua Doutor Manuel de Sousa Menezes, ,,

Carapacho, 9880-152 Santa Cruz da Graciosa +351 295 730 505, Graciosahotel.com 2 mins, 39.0127, -27.9593 sg1“ 7 SANTA CRUZ DAS FLORES PISCINAS NATURAIS Several tidal pools in black rocks provide safe oases for a swim. Views out across sea to the mysterious Corvo island. Take the R1-2 into Santa Cruz and follow ,, brown signs for the pools. 2 mins, 39.4593, -31.1265 1*

hot springs 8 PONTA DA FERRARIA, SÃO MIGUEL Here the cliffs give way to a wide black belt of volcanic stone, a fajã , level with the sea. The rocks arch to form wild bridges where the waves crash under. But only 20m beneath this bedrock stirs molten lava and magma. At low tide, large rock pools fill with seawater warmed by bouts of heat issuing from these volcanic sea caves. Come at night, low tide, and take a dip under a canopy of stars. Feel the hot and cool waters mingle around you as you gaze up at the heavens and hold onto a tight rope as your body is gently pulled back and forth by the tide. There is an excellent

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12 XX for over 200 years but this valley is, in fact, a crater over 7km in diameter. Furnas became popular towards the end of the 18th century, due to the growing interest in the use of mineral water to treat health problems. It has hundreds of small springs and streams, all with different properties. The Terra Nostra garden is located in the midst of this crater’s magnificent water system. Take a dip in their warm, muddy sulphuric swimming pool or explore the gardens and volcanic flora. From Furnas follow signs for Terra Nostra. ,, 15 mins, 37.7729, -25.3145 1sg“

XX 11 restaurant in the spa nearby with rich regional dishes and Açorean wines. Try the alcatra , Açorean pot roast, made with octopus, dark red meat or beans. A healing place. Take the N9-1A N past Ginetes, turn L at ,, signs for Ferraria. Park by the Termas and walk down the steps to the L of the swimming pool to the natural pools. Rua Ilha Sabrina, Ginetes, 9555-102 Ginetes +351 296 295 669, Termasferraria.com 2 mins 37.8603, -25.8538 1*sY 9 TERRA NOSTRA, SÃO MIGUEL There has been a garden in the Furnas valley

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10 POÇA DA DONA BEIJA, SÃO MIGUEL A network of five different hot springs of varying temperatures and health properties. The pools, streams and tumbling waters are outside, under willow trees. Plenty of places to rest and relax. Take the N1-1A into Furnas. Lomba Das ,, Barracas, 9675-044 Furnas +351 296 584 256, Pocadadonabeija.com 2 mins 37.7692, -25.3190 1“

surf & coves 11 PRAIA DA SANTA BÁRBARA, SÃO MIGUEL Big waves at this surfers’ beach and also

popular with bodyboarders. To the W of this beach, where the black rocks start, are hidden bunkers constructed under these rocks in 1942 to house artillery. You can explore a little of their remains, and look out to the bright beach from their dark casements. For surfing lessons/boards: Azores Surf Center +351 915 970 726, azoressurfcenter.com. Or skyxpedition@gmail.com for paragliding. From Ribeira Grande follow signs. ,, 2 mins, 37.8166, -25.5490 s1 12 PRAIA DA VILA FRANCA DO CAMPO, SÃO MIGUEL A black sand beach just up from the harbour. There are a couple of cafés and, although less wild, a safe stretch of sand with much smaller waves. From Vila Franca do Campo follow signs to ,, the harbour and walk E from here. 10 mins, 37.7168, -25.4276 1qs 13 PRAIA DA RIBEIRA QUENTE, SÃO MIGUEL A stretch of blackish-grey sandy beach under dramatic hills, where the Ribeira Quente meets the sea. It’s known as the ‘Hot River’ as its waters are warmed by the volcanic springs at Furnas. A protected beach with a number of little cafés and big, rolling waves.

XX 16 Take the N2-2A into Ribeira Quente and ,, follow signs for Praia. Parking. 1 min, 37.7338, -25.3013 sq 14 PRAIA DE AGUA D’ALTO, SÃO MIGUEL A sandy cove with views of the steep wooded hills while you take a dip. From Agua de Alto follow signs to ‘Praia’. ,, 2 mins, 37.7157, -25.4636 kq1s

secret beaches 15 PRAIA DOS MOSTEIROS, SÃO MIGUEL This is a black sand beach and, although fairly empty, is popular mostly with locals. There are views out to four mysterious rocks called Ilhéus dos Mosteiros, so called as they resemble traditional Celtic sea monasteries. The sun sets just behind them. From Mosteiros follow the road to the shore. ,, 4 mins, 37.8880, -25.8238 1e6 16 RIBEIRA DAS TAINHAS, SÃO MIGUEL A black sand beach in a tiny cove between cliffs. Within easy swimming distance is a black rocky island jutting up from the waves. Locals jump from its many ledges. From Ribeira das Tainhas town follow signs ,,

to Praia. Parking. 3 mins, 37.7165, -25.4102 1T!o 17 PRAIA DA AMORA, SÃO MIGUEL This is a wild, black sand beach beneath the cliffs and rock strata. A beautiful place to gather the pau santo, the sacred and deeply scented wood which falls from the trees. It has big, crashing waves and is a good place to collect a pumice stone. Signed off the M527 from Ponta Garça. ,, Park by the old fountain and walk down dirt track. After 300m turn R down steps. 10 mins, 37.7220, -25.3566 v1h*o 18 PRAIA DA AREIA, CORVO This is the only sand beach on the island of Corvo. A sheltered little cove with sand grey from the volcanic ash and eroded basaltic rock. From Vila do Corvo follow signs W towards ,, Praia. 1 min, 39.6731, -31.1216 1q

hidden waterfalls 19 A BARQUINHA, SÃO MIGUEL A rocky promontory formed by lava flow and accessed along a dramatic cliff-side path.

XX 15 The Ribeira do Preto cascades alongside the path and reaches the sea, forming several small pools along its way. According to the chronicler Gaspar Frutuoso (1522-1591) it was once called the ‘Black Cave’ and a mysterious hermit lived here. Seagulls wheel overhead, heather and lichen cover the rocks and seaweed is caught in the clear waves. A perfect hermit’s refuge. From Lomba da Maia follow signs to Praia ,, da Viola and park at (37.8396, -25.3591) when you reach the cliffs. Follow walking signs for Praia da Viola. 5 mins, 37.8401, -25.3618 =zh*

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XX 20 20 PARQUE NATURAL DA RIBEIRA DAS CALDEIRÕES, SÃO MIGUEL Here you can find the Cascata da Achada waterfall, with its thundering freshness, but also several smaller waterfalls falling into natural pools. It has paths and a café, tended flora and an old watermill. There are private and secluded spaces for a dip and, although it is a tended park, its preservation of nature’s wilder beauty is enchanting. Follow signs towards Achada on the N1-1A; ,, at Achada take the road inland and follow signs. Parking. 15 mins, 37.8421, -25.2672 1=zsq 21 SALTO DO CABRITO, SÃO MIGUEL Known as the ‘Goat’s Leap’, this is a waterfall darting over 40m-high rocks like an arrow into the glassy, green pool below, bordered by ferns and slippery stones. Steep stairs follow the sheer rock up to a narrow bridge over the gorge. The stream sparkles through dense woodland. From Ribeira Grande take the N5-2A ,, towards Lagoa do Fogo; after 3km there is a sign to your L. Follow track until parking and walk upstream. The stairs lead from behind the hydropower plant. 2 mins, 37.7965, -25.4989 1T=zhw

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22 RIBEIRA DO MALOÁS, SANTA MARIA A strange geological formation which resulted from contact of the sea with a flow of lava. The rocks resemble a row of giant eels standing bolt upright. A waterfall plunges 20m over them and rushes down over its steps and ledges to the sea ahead. From Malbusca take the coastal road S for ,, 1km. Look out on R for short walking path. 10 mins, 36.9305, -25.0649 =n* 23 CASCATA DO AVEIRO, SANTA MARIA This waterfall streams over 100m of lichen and sheer rock into a deep pool. It flows on to fill several other tiers of bathing pools. From Santo Espírito take the EN1-2A to the ,, SE tip of the island, follow road L and N up the coast for 3km, park at end of road. 1 min, 36.9481, -25.0212 =1 24 FAJÃ DA CALDEIRA DE SANTO CRISTO, SÃO JORGE This low, green belt of land, level with the sea is a special ecological area, and the only place in the archipelago where clams, a local delicacy, grow. There is a beautiful waterfall and pool along a signed walk from here. The blue lagoon and beach is also a sanctuary for

XX 27 bodyboarding and surfing. From Fajã da Caldeira follow signs to beach. ,, 5 mins, 38.6269, -27.9281 13h0 25 CASCATA DO POÇO DO BACALHAU, FLORES A monumental waterfall slicing between craggy peaks and rushing into a myriad of cascades to fill a deep green bathing pool. From Fajã Grande take the road N for 1km. ,, The waterfall is on your R. 2 mins, 39.4586, -31.2561 T=1o*

skinny dips 26 CASCATA DA RIBEIRA DA SALGA, SÃO MIGUEL A secret waterfall, little known, tumbling over thick rock strata to fill a bathing pool. Hidden by a deep grassy valley, it faces the sea. Follow the stream, jumping over rocks, until its journey ends at the beach 200m away. From the coastal road from Salga to Lomba ,, de Maia (37.8497, -25.3120) follow signs for Miradouro da Rocha. Park at the viewpoint and follow steep road downhill. 10 mins, 37.8573, -25.3073 1h*T=o

27 LAGOA AZUL, SÃO MIGUEL The blue lake, forming half of the Sete Cidades lagoon, where a wild peninsula reaches out into the water which fills the impressive volcanic crater and makes a perfect spot for a skinny dip. Deserted but for the birds; a path through woodland leads down to gently lapping water. From N9-1 S, turn R before the bridge ,, separating the two lakes and keep L. Park after 500m and walk down. 5 mins, 37.8602, -25.7841 Wh1

wildlife wonders 28 SETE LAGOAS, FLORES Within the wide and flowering volcanic cauldron of Flores, the caldeira, are seven lakes named for their features: Lagoas Funda, Branca, Seca, Comprida, Rasa, Lomba and Negra (Deep, White, Dry, Long, Shallow, Crest and Black Lakes, respectively). The last is 100m deep. There is a 7km linear walk passing some of these lakes and ends at beautiful Poço do Bacalhau in Fajã Grande. The walk begins at the miradouro (viewpoint) ,, between Caldeira Negra and Lagoa Comprida. Follow the path which skirts the lagoon. 3 hrs, 39.4397, -31.2239 zh1*

XX 26 29 WHALES & DOLPHINS, SÃO MIGUEL The Azores are currently one of the world’s largest whale sanctuaries. Take a fishing boat out, along with a marine biologist, to see resident and migrant species, common and rare, that can be spotted around these islands. For those who want to plunge in, swimming with dolphins is also an option. Contact Futurismo +351 296 628 522 ,, Futurismo.pt or Picos de Aventura +351 912 525 356 Picosdeaventura.com. Both companies leave from the harbour of Ponta Delgada and must be pre-booked. 3 hrs, 37.7396, -25.6648 4

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XX 32 The green lake which forms half of the Sete Cidades lagoon, there’s a picnic park and a fountain of fresh mountain water here. Take a dip in the cool, deep lake and look up at the wooded sides of the volcanic crater. A 17km circular walking trail around Sete Cidades passes along here. From N9-1 S, head to Sete Cidades and turn ,, L before the bridge over the lakes. Follow as far as picnic park. 1 min, 37.8446, -25.7846 W1z XX 33 30 WHALE & DOLPHIN WATCHING, FAIAL Hortacetáceos is a local company based in Horta with a resident marine biologist who accompanies you on the small boat. The sea here is home to many different species, so keep a beady eye out for Risso’s dolphins and pilot whales. Cais de Sta. Cruz, Marina da Horta, 9900 ,, Horta +351 292 391 942, Hortacetaceos.com 3 hrs, 38.5293, -28.6266 4

crater lagoons 31 LAGOA VERDE, SÃO MIGUEL

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32 LAGOA DO FOGO, SÃO MIGUEL A blue lagoon reflecting the sky from the Água de Pau crater. Take a scrabbly track down through flowering bush and scrub to the still blue water. A perfect swim with long stretches of pebbly beaches and a dense overpowering silence. From Ribeira Grande take the N5-2A to ,, Lagoa do Fogo. Park at the signed viewpoint and walk down. 15 mins, 37.7626, -25.4925 1zh* 33 ILHÉU DE VILA, SÃO MIGUEL Bounce over the waves to Ilhéu de Vila, an island off an island, with wild fig trees and a turquoise lagoon. Its horseshoe-shaped volcanic crater is filled by seawater. Bring

goggles, there are hundreds of colourful fish. Boats leave every hour from the harbour at ,, Vila Franca do Campo and cost about €5. 15 mins, 37.7057, -25.4445 1qT-

picnic parks 34 PARQUE DE MERENDAS, O TÚNEL, SÃO MIGUEL A picnic park by the banks of Lagoa Azul. From here the discharge tunnel, built in 1937 to maintain the water levels of Sete Cidades, leads off to Mosteiros on the coast. A peaceful place with a little cave hidden to one side. From Sete Cidades village follow the road ,, along the W edge of Lagoa Azul for 1km. 2 mins, 37.8753, -25.7901 1qW 35 PARQUE DAS FRECHAS, TERCEIRA A little picnic park by the Ribeira da Agualva stream. There are several tumbling waterfalls and a shady lawn. Facing the church in Agualva, turn L down ,, Rua dos Moinhos and walk for 800m. 3 mins, 38.7687, -27.1819 Wh31q 36 MIRADOURO DA BALEIA, SÃO MIGUEL Known as the ‘Whale Lookout Point’, from

XX 34 this peak you can survey great swathes of deep sea and easily imagine the dip and flick of a whale’s fins. Several BBQs, picnic tables and fountains for communal use. Signed from Algarvia. ,, 1 min, 37.8516, -25.2312 Wq 37 LOMBA DO CAVALEIRO, SÃO MIGUEL A dramatic spot for a picnic on green grass overlooking fields towards the Atlantic Ocean and the Povoação valley. From Povoação take the coastal road W for ,, 3km towards Ribeira Quente. On your L. 2 mins, 37.7491, -25.2691 Wh 38 MIRADOURO DA MADRUGADA, SÃO MIGUEL This beautifully kept picnic place overlooks the ocean to the east. Come for a spectacular dawn over a blushing sea. Fountains and stone tables are hidden beneath oak trees. Take the N1-1A S from Nordeste for 8km. ,, Signed, parking. 1 min, 37.7891, -25.1465 Wh6 39 MIRADOURO DA FONTE GRANDE, SÃO MIGUEL A beautiful picnic park overlooking the

Capelas cliffs, perfect for a sunrise. There is also a spring with sweet, cool drinking water. Signed off the N1-1A between Santo ,, António and Santa Bárbara. 3 mins, 37.8701, -25.7080 W6 40 RESERVA DAS FONTINHAS, SANTA MARIA A cool and tranquil woodland reserve with many trails and secret picnic spots at Pico Alto, the island’s highest point. From Almagreira take the N1-2A for 4km ,, and look for signs. Parking. 3 mins, 36.9618, -25.0754 zWq

cliffs & peaks 41 RIBEIRINHA, SÃO MIGUEL Cliffs fall away into the crashing Atlantic and a silver stream gushes over the edge, droplets are wind-flung and dashed into a mist. From Ribeira Grande take the coastal ,, road up along the cliffs and over the small roundabout. Park and walk 500m. 5 mins, 37.8339, -25.5076 6hD 42 MONTANHA DA PICO, PICO The giant volcanic Mount Pico can be seen

XX 41 from almost every corner of Pico and various points of neighbouring islands. A 2,351m high basaltic stratovolcano and the highest point in Portugal. In its main crater is the lava cone Piquinho with many permanent, smoking fumaroles. There is a 4km trail up to the top of Pico. It is a challenge to reach this magnificent peak but the feeling of having conquered Pico is worth the effort. Begin the walk at Cabeço das Cabras, the ,, 1,231m peak in São Caetano parish. From São Caetano town, take the road N and the walk is signed after 9 km. 5 hrs, 38.4706, -28.4265 zh*v

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XX 44 From Várzea take coastal road N for 800m. ,, 1 min, 37.8714, -25.8415 6W

volcanic craters

XX 45 43 TORRE DE VIGIA, SÃO MIGUEL A beautiful lookout tower over the Capelas cliffs as far as Calhetas. Just downhill there is a wonderful, upcycled bathroom made from two upturned fishing boat prows. Turn into Capelas centro, then follow brown ,, signs for miradouro. Park at bottom of coastal hill and walk up 300m. 2 mins, 37.8408, -25.6836 6he 44 PONTA DO ESCALVADO, SÃO MIGUEL Amazing place to watch the cliffs turn pink and the Ilheú dos Mosteiros darken at sunset.

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45 CALDEIRA DO VULCÃO DAS FURNAS, SÃO MIGUEL Several cavities in the earth, with bubbling fumaroles or steaming pot-holes, crown the top of Furnas’ volcanic rocks. This is the closest you can get to what feels like a sleeping dragon. These sulphuric springs and steams have long been known to have medicinal properties: breathe in the healing steams as they blow your way. A number of hot springs and cool fountains mingle their waters in streams running nearby. Some springs are sparkling, some sulphuric and others a mix. From Furnas follow signs to Caldeiras ,, signed off N1-1A. Parking. Walk downhill for the springs and follow steam for the fumaroles. 10 mins, 37.7726, -25.3043 Qns 46 LAGOA DAS FURNAS, SÃO MIGUEL A quiet lake with unquiet fumaroles. Listen to the rumble, bubble and hiss of the volcanic heat released through the ground. This is nature’s very own kitchen: here locals bury cozido stews in the fumaroles, to be

slow-cooked over the course of six hours in sulphuric heat. You can bring your own stew to cook (€3) or visit a nearby restaurant which brings their cozido to cook here. There are long picnic tables in shady woodland nearby. Take the road along the N side of the lake, ,, park and walk down. 2 mins, 37.7675, -25.3319 *“e 47 CALDEIRA DE PÊRO BOTELHO, SÃO MIGUEL An ancient fumarole with many legends: one is that of Pêro Botelho, an evil man who many years ago fell into this muddy, slippery volcano vent. He never returned and his echoing cries led to it being known as ‘Boca do Inferno’, Hell’s Mouth. If you stand close, and stay quiet, you can hear a distant thud, like Earth’s heartbeat. See Caldeira do Vulcão das Furnas (see 45) ,, and walk down the steps below the park. 5 mins 37.7729, -25.3030 Qe 48 LAGOA DO CANÁRIO, SÃO MIGUEL Wild steps through mossy woodland lead to this deserted lake in a volcanic crater in the Serra Devassa. Mild, opaque water surrounded by dense woodland. There is a signed 12km trail which starts here and leads to Sete Cidades taking in amazing views.

XX 46 From Covoada take road N towards Sete ,, Cidades. After 7km turn R at signs for Lagoa do Canário. Parking. Walk down steps to L. 2 mins, 37.8367, -25.7583 1zWh 49 FURNAS DO ENXOFRE, TERCEIRA See the most visible remains of the latest volcanic eruption on Terceira, in the 18th century. Hot, sulphuric vapours billow out. From Angra do Heroísmo take the N3-1A ,, and turn R at signs to Furnas do Enxofre. 3 mins, 38.7286, -27.2310 Wh 50 MIRADOURO DO CALDEIRÃO, CORVO A 300m deep crater with a diameter of 2km. Some say that inside, between the lagoons and small mounds, you can see the outline of the nine islands of the Azores. A 5km circular trail which begins at this viewpoint. Take the main road from Vila do Corvo and ,, follow signs L for Caldeirão. Park and walk in. 5 mins, 39.7083, -31.0983 zh*

caves & grottoes 51 GRUTA DO NATAL, TERCEIRA A 697m-long lava tube with magnificent stalactites. Surrounded by the hills of the

Santa Bárbara and Mistérios Negros Reserve and just next to the lake and picnic spot Lagoa do Negro. There is a 5km circular trail which begins here and winds its way through purple heather, passing the Lagoa do Negro, several small lakes and Pico Gaspar hill. Path signed outside Gruta do Natal ,, Interpretation Centre along the M502 after it crosses the N3-1A. 1 hr 38.7374, -27.2687 nqh“9 52 GRUTA DAS TORRES, PICO Explore one of the longest lava caves in the world. It was formed by the flow and cooling of subterranean magma rivers about 1,500 years old and is 5,150m long. Certainly an eerie passage. In high season there are five group tours a day, booking recommended. Criação Velha, Pico +351 924 403 921 ,, 1 hr, 38.4944, -28.5025 n9zq“

wild walks 53 TRILHO DO SANGUINHO, SÃO MIGUEL This 4.5km circular route begins and ends in Faial da Terra and leads you through chestnut, acacia and densely perfumed woodland, past endemic sanguinho trees, along streams and old mills up to a magical

XX 48 waterfall, Salto do Prego. The way is signed from the old village Faial da Terra by the river. Once in Faial da Terra continue up the river ,, until you see yellow and red signs for the walking route. Park here and begin. 2 hrs, 37.7494, -25.2019 z1T=D4h* 54 CHÁ GORREANA TEA TRAIL, SÃO MIGUEL This 6km circular trail begins and ends near the Gorreana Tea Factory. The family-owned estate dates from 1883 and is the oldest surviving tea plantation in Europe. Walk through tea fields, past old farmhouses and mountain and sea views. Restore yourself

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XX 56 with a cup of chá on your return. Along N1-1A between São Bras and Maia. ,, Carefully cross the regional highway towards the main gate at the entrance of tea plantation. Keep straight until you see a sign to turn to L. 2 hrs, 37.8176, -25.4025 ze* 55 CAMINHO DAS LAGOAS, PICO The Achada plateau, on the E side of Pico, has around 200 volcanic cones and several beautiful lagoons. This linear trail, 22km long, passes Lagoas dos Grotões, Caiado, Rosada, Paul, Landroal, Peixinho and Negra. Begins at the crossroads next to the Forest ,, Refuge along the N2, 11Km inland from S.Roque and ends at Ribeirinha. 1 day, 38.4707, -28.3018 1zh*35 56 CALDEIRA WALKING TRAIL, FAIAL Caldeira means cauldron and this gigantic volcanic crater could serve as a bubbling cauldron for a witch of astronomical dimensions. Its smooth grassy sides open up to the heavens. Explore along a 7km signed circular walk. Walk begins at the Caldeira viewing point, ,, signed from the N2-2A 5.5km N of Flamengos. 2 hrs, 38.5803, -28.7064 zh*n

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cafés & cakes 57 CAFÉ GREENLOVE Just outside Sete Cidades village centre is this wilder option for a snack or a drink, with views out across the Lagoa Azul. Take a dip in the water or lay out on the grassy banks. Good Açorean cheese here. Or try the grilled morcela, blood sausage, with pineapple. Rua Arruamento Margem da Lagoa das Sete ,, Cidades +351 296 915 214 37.8636, -25.7925 s1, 58 QUEIJADAS DA VILA FRANCA DO CAMPO, SÃO MIGUEL From the divinely guided hands of the 17th century nuns at Convento de Santo André come these queijadas de vila, dense little cakes made with lemons, egg yolks and sugar. The recipe was for many years a secret but eventually it leaked through the convent’s heavy stone walls and reached the ears of Eduíno Morgado Medeiro. His family has kept the tradition alive since. Try them at their little bakery, Do Morgado. Rua do Penedo 20, 9680-146 Vila Franca ,, do Campo +351 296 581 183 37.7160, -25.4301 s

59 RESTAURANTE MOAGEM, SÃO MIGUEL Mountain and sea views, with little tables outside, this is a great place to stop for some shade, a slice of pizza (with Azorean pineapple) and a beer. On the coast road running N of Salga. ,, Estrada Regional 1, 9630-270 Salga +351 296 462 192 37.8504, -25.3004 sh 60 TASCA DO TRAGUITA, SÃO MIGUEL A friendly, locals’ place for a beer – Especial – and a tosta mista. Hundreds of coloured hats line the walls and photos of the hair-raising Red Bull Cliff Diving from Ilhéu de Vila. Rua Simões de Almeida 4, Vila Franca do ,, Campo 37.7157, -25.4327 s

slow food 61 RESTAURANTE O CHICO, SÃO MIGUEL A rustic, family-run restaurant with great fish dishes. A good place to try lapas, wild limpets, octopus or the fresh catch from the nearby fishing villages. Rua da Ponte 7, Mosteiros +351 296 915 500 ,, 37.8894, -25.8212 sY

XX 60 62 CERVEJARIA CASCATA, SÃO MIGUEL A beer-house with local brew Especial on tap, but also hundreds of local snacks and seafood dishes. You can choose lapas (limpets), salada de búzio (conch or seasnails), cracas (barnacles) from the counter, or there are fresh local fish dishes chalked up on the boards. Eat outside on tables in the cobbled square by the church. Largo Gaspar Frutuoso 7, 9600-513 Ribeira ,, Grande +351 296 473 162 37.8231, -25.5197 sY 63 RESTAURANTE AGUAS QUENTES, SÃO MIGUEL A good place to try the cozido nas caldeiras, stew slow-cooked in the Furnas fumaroles for six hours. Each mouthful is heaven, with a slightly sulphuric edge. A shrine with electric candles and saints sits at the back – it should be made to the cozido chef. Rua Água Quente 15, 9675-040 Furnas ,, +351 296 584 482 37.7675, -25.3187 sY 64 QUINTA DOS SABORES, SÃO MIGUEL A working arable farm between Lagoa and Rabo de Peixe, with plenty of fruit and veg on sale. There is a gorgeous restaurant open

in the evenings and culinary workshops. Caminho da Selada 10, Alminhas de Rabo ,, de Peixe +351 926 333 114, Quinta-sabores.blogspot.com 37.7916, -25.5830 sYh 65 RESTAURANTE OS MOINHOS, TERCEIRA This is a great place to try alcatra, the beef or fish stew cooked in an earthenware pot and served on chunks of massa sovada bread. Lots of fish dishes cooked Açoriana style and good wines. Log fires in winter. Rua do Arrabalde, São Sebastião, ,, Angra do Heroísmo +351 295 904 508, Restauranteosmoinhos.pai.pt 38.6645, -27.0856 sYe 66 MUSEU DO VINHO, TERCEIRA The landscape of Biscoitos is filled with vineyards. A specific type of wine is made from the Verdelho grape grown here. Try the wine and the Chico Maria liqueur also made here. Canada do Caldeiro, 9760-051 Biscoitos ,, +351 965 667 324 38.7927, -27.2587 Y 67 RESTAURANTE QUINTA DAS GROTAS, GRACIOSA

A rural Açorean house in an idyllic setting serving creative regional fish and meat dishes and good wines. Caminho das Grotas 28, 9880 Santa Cruz ,, da Graciosa +351 295 712 334 39.0560, -28.0379 seY 68 ADEGA A BURACA, PICO A wine cellar in a basaltic cavern where you can try Verdelho wines, local Pico wines and see how ‘Picarotos’ would traditionally have lived. There is a cooper’s shop and a blacksmith’s tent; workshops are run in straw, wool and wicker, all activities related to the wine-making process. Lodging available. Estrada Regional 35, 9940-232 Santo ,, António São Roque do Pico +351 292 642 119, Adegaaburaca.com 38.5349, -28.3416 sgeY 69 RESTAURANTE PÔR DO SOL, FLORES A cosy restaurant above the cliffs with amazing sunset views. They serve regional dishes such as linguiça, a morcela, yams and sweet potatoes and o bolo tijolo, brick cake. 9960-110 Fajãzinha +351 292 552 075 ,, 39.4336, -31.2540 esY6

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70 RESTAURANTE O TRAINEIRA, CORVO A family-run restaurant is the place to try local fish and seafood: stewed octopus, limpets and crabs, among others. Enjoy local cheese and homemade puddings. Rua da Matriz , Vila do Corvo, 9980-020 ,, Corvo +351 912 632 127 39.6714, -31.1115 sY

wilder campsites

XX 72

71 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO DA FEIRA, SÃO MIGUEL A beautiful, wilder campsite by the River Guilherme. Walk a few metres down to old mill-houses and a secluded swim spot. A signed walking route passes through here. Boca da Ribeira, 9630 Nordeste + 351 296 ,, 488 680 37.8400, -25.1522 W1g*hz 72 QUINTA DAS LARANJEIRAS, SÃO MIGUEL A great campsite, lovingly run by Renato, a true Açorean, and his dog Mordor. There is a communal kitchen with wood fire, a collection of walking maps and books on the island, chestnut trees, rainwater collection and several hidden camping areas and tipis. At the end of the garden you can survey the hills and coast from a lookout tower. Perfect for a sunset. Your country’s flag will be hoisted upon arrival (his mother stitches every one). Canada Roda do Pico 30, Areias, 9600,, 097 Rabo de Peixe +351 962 823 766, Azorescamp.com 37.7995, -25.5907 gh*

71 XX

XX 76

73 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO DOS BISCOITOS, TERCEIRA A simple campsite by the sea and close to the tidal pools. Caminho de Santo António, 9760-051 ,, Biscoitos +351 965 235 417 38.7994, -27.2565 g1 74 PARQUE DE CAMPISMO CALHETA, SÃO JORGE A camping park in São Jorge just metres from the ocean with dazzling views across to Faial and Pico. There is also a natural swimming pool, ideal for a dive. Rua Cabo Vicente Dias, Faja Grande, 9850,, 072 Calheta +351 295 417 366 camping.cht.sjz.2014@gmail.com 38.6073, -28.0333 h*g

78 XX

79 XX

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healing retreats 75 TERRA NOSTRA GARDEN HOTEL, SÃO MIGUEL Set within the Terra Nostra gardens of the Furnas crater are hot springs and healing sulphuric waters. Its botanical garden has a naturally heated geothermic pool which, if you visit in the evening once the day visitors have left, you can have all to yourselves. Rua Padre José Jacinto Botelho 5, ,, 9675-061 Furnas +351 296 549 090 37.7728, -25.3142 sgY 76 CASA DA LAGOA, SÃO JORGE Situated between the steep green slope of the hills and the blue sea, this is the perfect couples’ retreat. A typical Fajã house with a wood oven, sleeps two. Walking trail, surfers’ beach and lagoon all nearby. Fajã da Caldeira +351 919 828 685, ,, Azorescasadalagoa.com 38.6247, -27.9289 e1*g

historic houses 77 HOTEL TALISMAN, SÃO MIGUEL In the historical centre of Ponta Delgada, this 17th century building, made of traditional volcanic stone, has windows that open out to the sculptural trees and palms in the square. Rua Marquês da Praia e Monforte 40, Ponta ,, Delgada +351 296 308 500, Hoteltalisman.com 37.7389, -25.6719 sgYe 78 CASA TI’ JOSÉ BORGES, TERCEIRA Stay in a 19th century farmhouse complete with a stone oven and a ‘praying hands’ chimney. A lovely retreat for a young family. Help on the farm, hand-milking the cows. Donkeys in nearby fields. Rua Tio José Borges 10, 9760-279 Lajes, Praia ,, da Vitória +351 295 517 367, Tijoseborges.com 38.7606, -27.0995 heqgs 79 ALDEIA DA CUADA, FLORES Flores is one of the wildest islands of the Açores. Escape to a small village with only the chirruping of birdsong to disturb your peace. Aldeia da Cuada was abandoned in the 1960s but Teotónia and Carlos Silva have rebuilt the village – there are now a number of little cottages for holiday rentals, and donkeys live in the nearby fields again. 9960-070 Lajes das Flores ,, +351 292 590 040, Aldeiadacuada.com 39.4404, -31.2557 egz1h*

Corvo 18

50 70

Flores 25 79 28 69

7 67

Faial São Jorge

Graciosa56 São Jorge Terceira 6 Horta

Velas

3 73 4 51 35 78 49 74 24 76 orge

Terceira 74

52 42

55 66

Pico

3 73 49

24 76

Graciosa

6 78

Terceira

Faial

Angra do Heroísmo 66

3 73Jorge São

24 76

2 61 São Miguel 15 34 Terceira 44 57 8 31 27 39 66 48 43 1 113 73 26 72 6241 19 59 36 6451 2135 54 78 49 20 Ponta Delgada 7729 71 Nordeste 32 38 12 17 13 37 53 14 16 65 Angra do Heroísmo 33 60 58 10 9 45 46 63 75 47

51 5 35

56 Horta

51 do35 Lajes Pico

eroísmo

Graciosa

6749 Velas

78 5 Graciosa

6 4

Terceira

Graciosa

6 66 65 Angra do Heroísmo 3 73 68 2 52 74 24 76 61 São Miguel 42 15 34 51 35 78 49 445557 39 Faial 27 8 31 São Jorge 43 Pico 48 do Pico1São Jorge Lajes 11 65 26 Angra do Heroísmo 72 6241 Velas 5 59 36 56 64 2167 54 19 Velas Terceira Graciosa 77 20 Ponta Delgada4 29 71 Nordeste 32 Terceira 4 6 30 66 38 1216 Horta 73 3 37 66 17 13 68 52 74 24 76 14 53 3 73 33 24 76 68 52 42 6074 51 35 Santa Maria 58 78 51 35 49 10 9 45 55 42 Faial 78 49 46 63 75 47 55

Pico

Lajes do Pico Pico

orta

São Jorge

Lajes do Pico Velas

65 Angra do Heroísmo Angra do Heroísmo

52 42

Pico

67 Lajes do Pico

40 22 23

Terceira

24 76

Graciosa

3 73

51 35 78 49

253

254

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Wild Guide Portugal Words: Edwina Pitcher Photos: Edwina Pitcher and those credited Editing: Michael Waterton Lee Proofreading: Siobhan Kelly Design: Daniel Start Tania Pascoe Distribution: Central Books Ltd 1 Heath Park Industrial Estate, Freshwater Road, Dagenham, RM8 1RX Tel +44 (0)208 8525 8800 orders@centralbooks.com Published by: First edition published in the United Kingdom 2017 by Wild Things Publishing Ltd. Freshford, Bath, Somerset BA2 7WG, UK ISBN 9781910636114

the award-winning, bestselling adventure travel series, also available as iPhone and Android apps: • South West England • South East England • Lakes and Dales • Scotland • Wales (2018) • Scandinavia • Portugal

Photo credits / copyrights: Copyright © 2017 Edwina Pitcher. All rights reserved. The moral rights of the authors have been asserted. Maps contain data © Ordnance Survey 2016. All photos © Edwina Pitcher except the following, © to those named, used with permission or a CCBYSA licence (Abbreviations: Page, Right, Left, Middle, Top, Bottom): Diana Matoso p48 T, p106 B, p119 B, p207, p244 T & B, p245 B, p246 B; Rosino p81; Turismo en Portugal p82; António Miguel de Campos p83; Parque de Campismo Rural p86 B; Casa Valxisto p87; www.lynexistu.es p146 2nd; Quinta da Bazagueda p146 4th; Pedra Amarela Basecamp p171 B; Antonio Martinho p174 2nd; Mata Pequena p174 B; Camping Rosario p202 B; Azenhas da Seda Aquaturismo p203; Carole Raddato p206 B; Hugo Cadavez p209 M; muffinn p226 M; Carlos Pinto p230; Husond p232 T; Animaris p232 B; Ideias Debaixo do Telhado p240 B; Jose Luis Avila Silveria Pedro Noronha e Costa p241; Carlos Luis M C da Cruz p250. Author acknowledgements: I would like to thank Diana Matoso, who appears throughout this book and without whose knowledge of Portugal’s wild places and inexhaustible spirit of adventure, this book would not have been possible. For their generous support I would like to thank Carmel Fitzsimons, Richard & Elena Bridges, Tito & Cristina Manto, Lucinda & Patrick Horton, Michael & Solidade Harris, Pip & Harry Morton, Jenny & Lisa Wong, Hannah Fair, Helena Morrissey, Lindsay Nicholson, Gilli Fryzer, Ana Rita Sarzedas, Nikki Jones, Joe Duggan, Paul Nuki, Teresa Matoso, Kitty Walsh, Ginny Gascoigne, Nikolaj Munk Nielsen, Telma Pinto, Joe Fleming, Natasha Cossey, Charlotte Rixon, Carlos Leiria, Jota Susana da Costa Pinto and Chris Brennan. I would also like to thank Instituto da Conservação da Natureza, Casas Brancas, Turismo dos Açores, Ecomuseu de Barroso, Alfredo Noronha Peres. For their guidance Tania, Daniel and Michael Lee. For countless rescues when I arrived half ferrel on doorsteps - Daniela Neta Fonseca and Maria Olivia Neta. For wild spirit, love and support Ellie Doney & Terri Merceica, Tiago Fonseca, George & Mobbs Pitcher, my brothers, my cousins. Health, Safety and Responsibility: Like any water-based activity, wild swimming has risks and can be dangerous. The locations featured in this book are prone to flood, drought and other changes. The locations may be on private land and permission may need to be sought. While the author and publisher have gone to great lengths to ensure the accuracy of the information herein they will not be held legally or financially responsible for any accident, injury, loss or inconvenience sustained as a result of the information or advice contained in this book. Swimming, jumping, diving or any other activities at any of these locations is entirely at your own risk.

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