A decommissioned oil rig has been transformed into a giant piece of art on the seafront, distorting the skyline, injecting new life into the Somerset resort and adding to the appeal of an autumn break in Weston-super-Mare.

The See Monster, set on a 35m-high repurposed North Sea platform and one of the UK’s biggest art installations, opened last weekend after a longer-than-expected build. It is free to visit and open from 9am to 9pm until 5 November. Exploring its four levels is definitely an out-of-the-ordinary experience. The structure is lit up at night.

Weston’s cafes and restaurants have smartened up to greet a wave of culturally curious visitors, while Victorian shelters along the seafront are being restored. The resort’s traditional attractions include its Grand Pier, a two-mile sandy beach and a marine lake.

On either side of the beach, however, you will also find natural beauty, including wild Sand Bay; Brean Down, with its naval fort and burial mounds; a nature reserve at Sand Point; and saltmarshes at the mouth of the River Axe.

How to get there

Great Western Railways has direct services from Bristol and Cardiff. The See Monster and Grand Pier are a 10-minute walk from the station. Bus routes are plentiful; PlusBus passes add unlimited travel to a train ticket.

Where to stay

For sunsets across Sand Bay, the South Sands Hotel faces the dunes. Rooms have a subtle coastal theme, plus there is a beachside terrace bar. Doubles from £120. Buses run from the hotel into Weston, including the 1 coaster (every 30 minutes) and the number 50 (hourly).

Alternatively, Harmony Apartments offers doubles from £225 for a three-night minimum stay. They are set 50m back from Weston’s main beach and are modern and bright, with kitchenettes. One has a sea-view balcony.

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Day one

Up with the sun

Find a hearty vegan breakfast at Loves on West Street. The cafe displays local art and has a library of books to leaf through, while its menu spans pancakes to chana masala and butterbean mash with tomatoes.

Monster hunting

With shimmering scales and a crane boom for a neck, The See Monster sits behind the Tropicana, a disused lido. A 10m-high waterfall thunders off one side and there are coastal views from the old helipad up top. Artists and engineers have collaborated to create installations, such as a mist-making cloud machine, that celebrate British weather and encourage the use of renewable energy. Wild gardens are irrigated using solar and wind technology and the waterfall is powered this way too. Listen to the shipping forecast in the amphitheatre or jump in the spiral slide to whizz down to a lower level. Open on 5 November, entry free.

The See Monster has some natty merchandise at the Tropicana, in the shape of block-coloured T-shirts bearing its minimal logo.

Afterwards, head to the recently revamped Weston Museum to see an ichthyosaur skeleton. Other displays focus on local wildlife and on Weston’s growth from a small fishing village (entry free, closed Sun-Mon).

Don’t miss

As the tidal reach in Weston-super-Mare is one of the largest in the world, the Bristol Channel is often too far off for a paddle. Step forward Marine Lake, a sea-filled pool that was dredged to bring it back into use. Sunset swims are memorable and cold-water bathers regularly gather, though it’s closed until around 6 October.

Time for a sundowner

Captain’s Cabin is a down-to-earth pub with a sun terrace and frequent live music. Find it tucked around the headland, close to skeletal Birnbeck pier. Picnic tables overlook the sea.

Dinner reservation

At the northern end of the promenade, Il Michelangelo is an upmarket Italian restaurant with kitsch frescos, a conservatory and crisp, white linen. Opt for big portions of authentic pasta, such as ricotta and truffle-filled ravioli.

Day two

Hit the beach

Bring buckets and spades to Weston beach, where children can dig beneath the seafront or have a scoot along the promenade. Around the headland, north of Weston beach, Sand Bay is a more natural prospect. Backed by grass-tufted dunes, the sand and shingle is a place for blustery walks. Afterwards, head up through mossy Weston Woods to the remains of Worlebury Camp, an Iron Age hillfort.

Lunch time

A new restaurant in town, Ginger Pig Kitchen, should suit most tastes. Lunch options include burgers and open sandwiches, or choose from a short, two-course bistro-style menu.

Time to relax

The coast at Uphill, at the southern end of Weston beach, is another secret. Below the cliffs, weatherboard-fronted cafe The Boathouse offers coffee and cake. Then set out on a leisurely stroll beside upturned boats, grassland and saltmarsh, with Uphill Beacon as a backdrop.

A final treat

Marshfield Farm ice cream is some of the region’s best, with flavours such as blackcurrants in clotted cream. Grab a scoop and pay £1 for a walk along the Grand Pier, which was rebuilt after a fire in 2008. Prefer scones? Tiffany’s, at the end, serves all-day afternoon tea with sea views.

Three things you might not know about Weston-super-Mare…

1. The See Monster is not the first major piece of art at the Tropicana. In 2015, Banksy’s Dismaland – a ‘bemusement park’ – ran for five weeks, generating £20m in revenue.
2. Guglielmo Marconi sent his first successful radio message 125 years ago from Flat Holm, the flatter of the islands visible from Weston, to Wales opposite.
3. Weston takes super and Mare from the Latin to mean “above the sea”.