| Cruise through the klongs of Bangkok by longtail boat
Discover the Venice of the East
Did you know that Bangkok is also called the Venice of the East? Here too, people once lived on and along hundreds of canals. A large part of these have been filled up and replaced by roads, but in the old part of Thonburi some of these klongs remain. Here, people still live in wooden houses on high poles above the water level.
If you want to make a unique excursion in Bangkok, you should definitely take a longtail boat through the klongs. It is a very relaxing way to get acquainted with the classic Thai lifestyle, meet the friendly locals, spot sunbathing monitor lizards along the waterfront, and escape the busy city for a while.
Although the klongs are nothing like the grandeur of the famous Venetian Grand Canal and its branches, they make for an equally wonderful experience in their own unique way.
Quickly go to
Thonburi
The klongs (or khlongs) are canals branching off from the mighty Chao Phraya River, which separates the quiet Thonburi district from the modern part of Bangkok. Thonburi is located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. This is the old and original Bangkok that was declared the capital of Thailand in the late 18th century.
Since then, Bangkok has grown into a true metropolis, but the main changes have been to the east side of the Chao Phraya, the new city. Here you will find the bustling China Town and the Chidlom Ploenchit district with its skyscrapers and huge shopping malls.
In comparison, time seems to have stood still in Thonburi. It is quieter, greener and much less touristy. Instead of skyscrapers, you will find traditional wooden houses, local schools and many temples. Among these temples, you will also find the iconic Wat Arun, the Temple of the Dawn.
Meanwhile, Thonburi has become increasingly popular with wealthy Thais and expats, who are increasingly having luxury villas built here among the traditional homes. It is a more than remarkable sight. Bangkok is surrounded by contrasts, but nowhere are these more tangible than in the klongs.
The klongs
Old wooden buildings standing half-submerged in water, completely eroded, stand side by side with some of the most expensive residences in the city. Together, they are interspersed with golden temples and green passages (where locals grow water spinach), and the requisite monitor lizards swimming by.
Like the Chao Phraya River, the klongs are full of catfish, which the locals feed from the temple railings.
Often we could see them releasing more catfish into the water. “A prayer for luck and abundance”, our guide explained. We don’t know if the people will eventually find this abundance, but their prayers have certainly contributed to an abundance of catfish 😉.
A tour through the klongs is a relaxing activity, where you see the Thai people in this area going about their daily business, such as their prayers, but also the laundry, cooking, fishing and swimming. Near most of the houses, boats are moored that the locals use for their work or their shopping. On the edge of the houses or stairs, there is often a monitor lizard sunbathing.
During our tour through the klongs, we also came across a stray monkey, much to the delight of our guide. Apparently, this is the only monkey that lives freely in Bangkok and it was the first time he saw it here.
How to book a tour through the klongs?
There are various options for taking a tour through the klongs. We recommend doing this with an experienced tour operator with an English speaking guide to learn more about this area during the boat trip. Depending on the tour you book, you will also moor at certain spots and explore the area on foot.
During the tour we made, we stopped for this at the Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen Temple. An experience that we will never forget! Here, we suddenly found ourselves face to face with the now mummified body of a beloved monk. It had been displayed here for twelve years, so that the locals could continue to visit him. Gold leaf glistened on his remains, left there to commemorate his birthday. “When it gets really hot, they turn on the air conditioning,” our guide confided.
Another possible stop is The Artist House, a 200-year-old building where a traditional Thai puppet show is held on Saturdays. It is a gathering place for local artists and some tourists. You can join the artists here in their work by doing some sketching yourself, painting Thai wooden masks or decorating bracelets.
This tour will take you to all the places we have mentioned. Another option is to visit the klongs during one of Co van Kessel’s famed bicycle tours through Bangkok’s China Town and Thunburi. We did this years ago and it was also a great way to get to know a lot of this area in one day.
You can also visit the klongs without an organised tour. Go to Phra Arthit Pier, near Khao San Road, or the pier at BTS station Saphan Thaksin. Here you can hire a longtail boat. Please note that in that case you will not have an English-speaking guide in the boat and that you will not stop along the way. A boat trip through the klongs will take from one hour to one and a half hours (we would go for the latter option) and costs about 1000 bath (about €27 or $28) per person.
General information about the klongs
» The klongs can be visited every day between 7am and 6pm. For the best light and tranquillity it is best to go in the morning hours.
» A tour by longtail boat takes between 1.5 and 3 hours, depending on whether you stop anywhere along the way.
» Although not essential, we recommend booking in advance with an experienced tour operator so that you can really learn about this unique area from an English-speaking guide. These tours cost around 1450 bath (about €39 and $41) and take 2 to 3 hours.
» It is possible to combine a tour through the klongs with other attractions in Bangkok. For this, we recommend the Co van Kessel Classical bicycle tour through the city. Here you will get an overview of the klongs, the overwhelming China Town and a glimpse of Green Bangkok in Thonburi.
» It is also possible to combine a visit to the klongs with an organized tour of the Palace of Bangkok.
» Would you like to visit the klongs without a tour? Then go to Phra Arthit Pier or Saphan Thaksin Pier. Costs for a one and a half hours’ longtail boat trip are between 750 and 1000 bath per person. That is between €20 and €27 (or $21 and $29).
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