History of the Riverbottom Bar

Whether a hangout for Marines, Bikers, or thirsty locals in general, the Riverbottom Bar in the San Luis Rey Valley may date back to the 1870s. The bar was located in what was once the San Luis Rey Township, a rural but well established community by the 1860s.

Named because of its proximity to the Mission San Luis Rey, the township existed nearly two decades before the city of Oceanside was established in 1883. Residents in the valley came to the small village area because it offered a stage stop, Freeman’s blacksmith, Simon Goldbaum’s store, a post office and a school. San Luis Rey was featured in its own column in the San Diego Union newspaper, providing information on weather, crops and local happenings. Frank Whaley of San Diego’s Old Town eventually published a small newspaper called the San Luis Rey Star.

Early Map of the San Luis Rey Township in 1873. (Filed as Map 0076).
In 1920 the County would build a road through the north half of Block 2, eliminating lots 1 through 7.

In 1873 E. G. Locke, who had been appointed postmaster in 1870, filed an official map of the township, of which he was listed as the proprietor. The township of San Luis Rey consisted of ten blocks and 7 streets. The street names no longer exist but were as follows: Main Street, San Luis Avenue, Broadway, Spring Avenue, University, Mission Avenue (not to be confused with the present-day road) and Locke Avenue, named after Elbridge G. Locke himself.

Locke partnered with local rancher William Wallace, operating a store as well as a hotel together. Wallace married Locke’s daughter, Alice on July 9, 1874.

In 1876 Locke erected a new hotel at San Luis Rey, which he named the Locke Hotel. After the new town of Oceanside was established, several businesses in San Luis Rey relocated there, including the San Luis Rey Star newspaper which then became the Oceanside Star. The Locke Hotel was to Oceanside and became one of its earliest hotels.

The Tremont Hotel on the 300 block of North Cleveland Street was once the Locke Hotel and located in San Luis Rey.

William Wallace, Locke’s one time partner, died in 1892. His widow Alice Locke Wallace owned a strip of land which is present day North El Camino Real (east of Douglas Drive). She served as postmistress in San Luis Rey from 1893 to 1908 and her son Lee Wallace followed her in the position until 1912.

On January 13, 1912 it was announced that “Lee Wallace has resigned as postmaster at San Luis Rey, and a petition is being circulated for the appointment of John W. Bradley.”

John Bradley then became postmaster, and the new owner of the Mission Store where the post office was located. In 1915 Crutcher Morris purchased the Mission Store and was subsequently appointed postmaster in 1916. William P. Jensen acquired the Mission Store and served as the postmaster of San Luis Rey from 1917 to 1932.

In 1932 Roy and Marian Sager purchased several lots in the township including Lots 8 through 13 in Block 2 from William Jensen. In 1933 Marian Sager was confirmed as postmistress of San Luis Rey. She then applied for a new location for the post office, just across the street.

1937 aerial view of the San Luis Rey Township. The red arrow indicates the Mission Store location owned by Sager and what would become the Riverbottom Bar. The blue arrow is the present day San Luis Rey Bakery; the yellow arrow is the San Luis Rey Schoolhouse built on the grounds of the Mission, and the green arrow indicates the west portion of the Mission itself.

In 1942 Roy and Marion Sager, father and son, announced their intention to sell their interest in their “grocery and meat market business consisting of merchandise and stock in trade known as the Mission store” which was “situated” on Lots 11, 12 and 13 of Block 2. While the Sagers maintained ownership of the real property, they sold the Mission Store business to Phyllis Goggin and C. Shaw.

Phyllis Mary Goggin was the widow of Daryl Henry Goggin, who was killed during the bombing of Pearl Harbor December 7, 1941. His is listed as one of the approximately 390 “unknowns” from the USS Oklahoma at the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific. Phyllis Goggin died just two years later at the age of 38 in 1943.

The newly opened San Luis Rey Inn in 1946

By 1946/47 the building owned by the Sagers was leased to Andrew and Marguerite Weir and would become restaurant called the San Luis Rey Inn.

The San Luis Rey Inn had a flat roof, but the front façade and a portion of the west elevation featured a shed roof covered in clay tile. The front of building included five arched bays that resembled garage doors (an additional “bay” was also on the west end.)

A closer look at the building in several photos reveals a house on the west end, its sunken roof exposed to the elements, which was sometimes obscured from view by the leaves of the large Pepper Tree planted next door. (This structure is also clearly visible in Google Maps View from 2008 to 2019).

The San Luis Rey Inn building is similar in size and length to that of the Goldbaum Store and Hotel, once located in the San Luis Rey Township. A photo of Goldbaum’s store clearly depicts a house behind what is a “western store front”. This storefront could have easily been removed, along with the wooden parapet and then the porch enclosed. Even the name “San Luis Rey Inn” appears to be homage to Goldbaum’s San Luis Rey Hotel. As late as 1919 the building was used as polling place and believed to be used as the post office and store in the township in the 1920s.

Simon Goldbaum’s Hotel and Store in San Luis Rey. Simon is standing on the porch roof.

Simon Goldbaum was born in 1848 in Grabow, Prussia (now Germany). As a young man of about 18 he came to America. By 1868 he was living in San Francisco, but soon after moved to Los Angeles where he clerked at a general store.

Goldbaum became a Naturalized Citizen in 1871 and that year purchased a general store at Monserate (near Fallbrook). By 1873 Goldbaum moved to the San Luis Rey Township where he purchased a store and hotel building.

Ad for the Goldbaum Hotel, 1875

Simon had four brothers, William, Louis, Max and Albert who would all settle in San Diego County, namely San Luis Rey and the new town of Oceanside.

The Goldbaum his hotel and store was a social gathering spot with dances and other events held there. 1878 Simon Goldbaum was appointed postmaster of San Luis Rey and his hotel/general store would have housed the post office as was customary. He was appointed postmaster again in 1883 and 1885. He was so well known and liked, Goldbaum was called the Mayor of San Luis Rey.

He married Margaret Marks in 1886 and they had two daughters, Pearl and Helen. Pearl died in 1904 at the age of 16 due to pneumonia.

In 1901 Goldbaum was granted a license to sell alcohol at this San Luis Rey Store. He sold his business in 1907 and moved to San Diego. However, he still maintained ownership of nearly 1,000 acres of farmland in the San Luis Rey Valley. Simon Goldbaum died in 1915 at the age of 69.

If the Riverbottom Bar building was in fact the Goldbaum building, it certainly followed the historical trend as store, post office, hotel (of sorts) and saloon remodeled and transformed as the San Luis Rey Inn.

In 1947 the San Luis Rey Inn was owned by Andrew Weir and his wife Marguerite, who provided patrons food and drinks along with the opportunity to join in a community dance at what was referred to as a “Hoedown”. An ad from the 1947 Oceanside Blade Tribune read:

Big Okie Hoedown at the San Luis Rey Inn. Dance to the music of the Okie Hoedown. Hours from six to midnight.”

The San Luis Rey Inn was frequented by both locals and Marines from the nearby military base, Camp Pendleton, established in 1942. Although it was considered “out of the way” for Oceanside residents, it was a popular nightspot beckoning customers with the romance of “Mission Days”….

Tonight and every night in old Spanish settings, dining and dance at San Luis Rey” … “All lit up in neon and next to the large Texaco station.”

Betty Lanpher Miranda, born and raised in the San Luis Rey Valley, remembers as a child that the owner of the restaurant kept a monkey in the large, old Pepper Tree. It startled her one day as she was standing outside, but she also recalled it was tethered in some manner so as not to run away.

Owner Andrew Weir died suddenly of a heart attack in 1948, however, and wife Marguerite put the establishment up for sale by placing a classified ad in the local newspaper:

Must be sold San Luis Rey Inn. Beer, Cafe, party or club room. Living quarters, lease and equipment. Best offer takes.” (It is noteworthy that “living quarters” is mentioned in this ad, in what may have been the Goldbaum hotel.)

The following year the San Luis Rey Inn was under new management. New owners “Johnny and Nell” (Doris M. Danforth and Nellie Burdick) offered their clientele “home-cooked foods and Coors beer on tap.”

Richard Miranda, who came to Oceanside at a young age in the 1930s, remembered that he and his friends were sold beers by the bartender when they were still in high school. However, they were not allowed to stay and had to take their beers outside and drink elsewhere as they were underage!

The San Luis Rey Inn remained a popular eatery in the 1950s offering customers “specialty steak and one dollar Spanish plates” of “tacos, tamales enchiladas at reasonable prices.”

The small township benefited from increased traffic from the “Camp Pendleton Road” as Marines and farm workers traveled through. Its small business “district” expanded including Webster & Light Radiator Repair, Brandt’s Cut Rate Rocket Station and Rudy’s Auto Wrecking.

The town of San Luis Rey in 1958. (looking east)

In 1958 Nellie Burdick sold the San Luis Rey Inn to Gene and Ethel Weaver. A legal notice read:

All stock in trade, fixtures, equipment and good will of a certain cafe business known as SAN LUIS REY INN and located at across from the Post Office, Mission Road street, in the City of San Luis Rey, County of San Diego.”

The Weavers also owned the Base Café on North Hill Street (Coast Highway). They renamed their newly acquired establishment “Ethel’s Bar & Grill.” On February 13 1959, Tommy Duncan, a well known Western singer/songwriter performed at Ethel’s.

But the following month, in March 1959, a shooting occurred at Ethel’s and may have been the beginning of the establishment’s “reputation.”

Robert Abilez, a resident of Vista, entered the bar and asked fellow patrons to help him engage in a fight. When they refused Abilez pulled a .38 caliber revolver from his pocket but then dropped it on the floor. After picking up his weapon he sat next to two men, Almarez Vidales and Contreras Sanchez. As they drank their beers, Abilez insisted that the men go with him to fight. When they refused he drew the revolver again and fired. Sanchez stepped back and the bullet grazed his heavy leather jacket, and hit Vidales in the forearm. Lawrence Harris, the bartender, disarmed Abilez and held him while Ethel Weaver called the sheriff’s office.

The San Luis Rey Inn in 1958 before name change to Ethel’s.

Later Ethel’s would move to a location closer to the “back gate” of Camp Pendleton, and what was once known as the San Luis Rey Inn was renamed the Riverbottom Bar.

Even as Oceanside city limits expanded eastward, San Luis Rey remained a separate township, although the city of Oceanside limits surrounded it by the 1960s. It was even given its own zip code – 92068. By the 1970s it was annexed to the City. The Riverbottom Bar was given a new address of 473 North El Camino Real.

1969 Thomas Guide showing that the town of San Luis Rey and the Mission were part of the County and not city limits.

Roy Sager maintained ownership of the land that the Riverbottom and other businesses were located upon, (a total of 3 and half acres). In 1970 he sold Lots 8 through 13 in Block 2 and lots 1 through 7 in Block 3 to Roland House.

In 1976 William and Donna Justus, owners of Auto Parts and Salvage Inc. purchased the 3.5 acre property but continued to lease the building to various bar owners. In the 1980s Suzanne Ochoa owned the Riverbottom Bar. Her mother Eunice Walker ran the Long Branch Saloon in downtown Oceanside before it was demolished in 1982.

In July 1997 Charles and Patricia Baker became owners of the Riverbottom and ran it for several years.

It was both a favorite “hole in the wall” to some and a dump to others. One loyal customer wrote a review in 2013 and shared its long association with Marines:

Yes, it’s a dive bar. [It] has been here since roughly 1927. You grunts in Horno, cannon cockers in Las Pulgas, and grunts in San Mateo, ever heard of Iron Mike Hill? Well, he is real and he drinks here STILL! If you want off mainstream to have a blast come here!”

Riverbottom Bar, 473 North El Camino Real (Google view 2011)

Another reviewer in 2014 did their best in describing the Riverbottom Bar, while trying to keep expectations low:

This place is good. This place is a true dive. Dives aren’t glitzy, cutesy or thematic, despite what hipsters like to think. You don’t hang out there to pick up women; it’s not where the “crowd” hangs out. Your standard clientele are older Marines; you’ll get some Bikers and off duty Law Enforcement on some nights. It’s one of the older buildings in the area; it was built in the 1920s as a post office. It serves beer and bar snacks, nothing too special. I used to drink here with my grandpa (retired Marine). I always had a nice time there. If you behave yourself and keep your standards and expectations low you’ll have a nice time.”

The Riverbottom Bar (Google view 2015)

The Riverbottom Bar with its uneven floors, crumbling walls, aging booths and bar remained “unremarkable” and “unpretentious.” It was described as a hideaway, a low-budget watering hole and a “local artifact.” (Perhaps over 140 years old!)

Eventually the Riverbottom closed its doors. There were plans to reopen but it never happened. One day in 2020, the old building and its Pepper Tree were bulldozed. No one noticed as it happened during the pandemic, but a piece of history, perhaps dating back to the 1870s in the small Township of San Luis Rey, quietly disappeared.

Betty’s – Classic Oceanside

Beach concession stands have been around for 100 years or more, situated near and around Oceanside’s pier. They provided beach goers with many of the same essentials as they do today…food, cold refreshments, beach towels, etc.

One such amenity, however, has disappeared: the dressing room. Today folks come dressed for the beach — flip flops, bathing suit, cover-up or t-shirt and shorts. But oh so many years ago, flip flops and the bikini had yet to be “invented” and folks viewed trips to the beach a more formal affair — they came fully dressed.

In 1885 Founder Andrew Jackson Myers built a bathhouse below the bluff, north of the present day pier. Despite its name, it was not a place one could bathe, but instead change into “bathing attire” suitable for the beach. Dressing rooms remained in demand through the 1950s but as clothing and beach fashions change, they have since disappeared.

Myers’ bath house on the beach, circa 1888. Photo Oceanside Historical Society, Carpenter collection

Today restrooms sometimes double as a changing room, when needed. But in 1927 Ordinance 318 was passed which prohibited the Beach Comfort Station (aka beach restroom) as being used as a dressing room. There were several small dressing rooms operating on the beach (public and private).

In 1931 Archie Freeman built a small dressing room along The Strand, south of the Oceanside Pier and bandshell.  The building and surrounding area would soon after be purchased by the City of Oceanside.

Dressing room in background (right) in 1940. Oceanside Historical Society, Marjorie Johnson collection

The dressing room was leased out to various people who operated it during the tourist season and summer months. Marie Jones managed it in 1941 and in 1943 Mary E. Belew was given the lease. In 1944 sister-in-laws Orene and Lora Fay Guest were granted the lease. They operated the dressing rooms for 14 years. In addition to providing changing rooms, the facility also rented out beach equipment such as chairs, towels and flotation devices

Nadine McGill and Nadine Nadon in front of Dressing Rooms at the beach, 1946. Oceanside Historical Society

In 1943 the building was enlarged to serve Oceanside’s expanding population, which was growing at a rapid rate after the establishment of Camp Joseph H. Pendleton in 1942.

View of Oceanside Pier, parking lot and the dressing rooms, circa 1945. Oceanside Historical Society

In about 1950 a small restaurant was built just to the south of the dressing rooms. This beach concession was named “Betty’s” (sometimes referred to “Betty’s on the Beach” and Betty’s Place). The space was leased from the city and operated by Elizabeth B. Smith.

Dressing rooms, beach rentals and Betty’s on The Strand, 1950s. Oceanside Historical Society

Elizabeth Carpenter was born in 1904 in Plymouth, Pennsylvania. She met Charles Mayer Smith in Ohio where they both worked at a restaurant. (Charles had a daughter from a previous marriage named Betty.) Elizabeth and Charles married in 1924 and by 1938 moved to San Diego County, and lived for a time in El Cajon where they operated a restaurant. Their daughter Merry Jacqueline was born in 1939.

Elizabeth “Betty” and Charles Smith in one of their restaurants. Oceanside Historical Society

By 1949 the Smith family had moved to Oceanside where they purchased “Willard’s House of Good Food” located at 309 South Hill Street (Coast Highway). They renamed their establishment Smith’s Dining Room which operated for one year. Charles and Elizabeth Smith then began operating the beach cafe that would become a local fixture and beach hotspot.   

Dressing rooms and Betty’s on The Strand, 1950s. Oceanside Historical Society

Betty’s was a popular place for local teens and surfers. The adjacent parking on the Strand became nearly synonymous with the food stand. Betty’s remained on the Strand until the mid to late 1960s. Charles Smith died in 1964, Elizabeth in 1972. Both are buried at Eternal Hills Memorial Park in Oceanside.  

Betty’s and the parking lot that “old-timers” still call “Betty’s Lot” 1950s

Betty’s on the beach was so memorable to so many that although the restaurant was torn down decades ago, many locals still refer to the parking lot on The Strand as “Betty’s Lot”.

Magnus Tait, Survivor of Civil War Prison Camps

Just two years after Oceanside was established in 1883, Magnus Tait arrived here from Lawrence, Kansas. He purchased considerable property from Oceanside Founder Andrew Jackson Myers and Tait Street is named after him. His youngest son, Magnus Cooley Tait, followed his father and became the manager of the Oceanside water works, bringing water into town by wagon.

The elder Magnus Tait was born in 1837 in Scotland, coming to America with his parents as a child. The family settled in Joliet, Illinois. In 1858 Magnus Tait married Antoinette Cooley and fathered four children.

Sons of Magnus Tait: Walter, Magnus and Thomas, courtesy Magnus Warren Tait

In 1862 the Scotsman enlisted in the Union Army and was assigned to the 1st Illinois Light Artillery.  In 1864 his battalion went from Tennessee to Georgia to fight against the confederacy during the Civil War. He was captured and taken prisoner, in Camp Lawton, Blackshear and the infamous Andersonville Prison Camps, enduring with thousands of other Union soldiers, starvation, scurvy and torture. Near death he weighed just 67 pounds.

Original print of Magnus Tait’s Account

Magnus Tait wrote about his hellish experience, (note: insensitive language) published in a small booklet, which was then published in the South Oceanside Diamond newspaper in 1888 with the following headline:

IN LIVING HELLS!

A True Story of Rebel Prison Life!

By Magnus Tait,

Battery M 1st Illinois Light Artillery

            In writing an account of my prison life, I may err some in dates, as it is all from memory, having kept no regular Diary, and most of us felt that if we survived the war, we would want to forget all as soon as we could; “but all of which I saw, and part of which I was.”

             I enlisted in Battery M, First Regiment of Illinois Light Artillery, at Camp Douglas, Chicago, Illinois, on August 4th, 1862, and was mustered in the United States service on the 12th.  Was promoted to Sergeant of No. 6 Gun, and left for the seat of war, Sept. 27.

Magnus Tait, circa 1890, courtesy Magnus Warren Tait

            I will not follow our Battery from that time through all the different battles and skirmishes in which it was engaged, but leave for better hands to write its history.  Since the war, I have heard Gens. Sherman and Sheridan, and Col. Bridges (who commanded the Artillery of the 4th Corps.) praise its fighting qualities.

            After leaving Cleveland, Tenn., on the Atlanta campaign, and being engaged for about one hundred days–that is, some part of the day or night–the left section of the Battery was “turned over” as worn out and not considered safe for further use; so, at Marrieta, Ga., on June 30, 1864, No’s 5 and 6 Guns were “turned over”, most of the horses condemned and the men distributed among the other four gun squads.  I was then put on detached duty, sometimes as Orderly for Capt. Spencer of our Battery, making trips back to our wagon train, returning with forage for the horses, hard tack and ammunition, and then escorting refugees back through the lines, and at the same time had orders from one of Gen. Stanley’s Staff to do some detective work.

            At that time I had the only Chicago horse left in our Battery–the one I rode out of Chicago.  He knew the drill as well as I did.  I never had to go around a log or throw down a fence on the march.  At two different times, I owed my life to this.  Once in Georgia, I was alone, the rebels turned loose on me, after firing a volley, they started after me on the run.  After a two mile run, I discovered a squad of “gray coats” in the road ahead, waiting for me to run into them.  I turned, leaped the fence and headed for camp, and cleared three fences before I again struck the road.  His name was “Festus”.  When I was captured and a “Johnnie” rode him off–or rather, tried to–he turned his head and called, as much as to say–“Good-bye”.  The brine came to my eyes–I could not help it–the last time I ever saw him.  He was wounded twice–one only a scratch, at New Hope Church.  At Resaca, he had a ball in his leg below the knee.  I bound my handkerchief around it and after we got to camp, cut the ball out.  “Noble Festus”, may his ashes rest in peace! and, if intelligence live hereafter, may we meet again.

            ATLANTA, Aug. 25, 1864;–Today, the 4th Corps, with Sherman, swung around Atlanta.  All extra baggage was left behind.  Battery M had about four loads and a lot of stuff for Col. Bridges.  I was detailed by Captain Spencer to remain in charge of it.  His orders were verbal–about like this “Sergeant, you remain here and take charge of the ‘plunder’ until the wagons return for it, then you loan up and follow as quick as you can.”  He probably did not then know the magnitude of that “flank movement,” as he called it; for, before the Battery had got out of sight, one of Gen. Stanley’s Staff rode up and asked me what I was going to do with those supplies and what were my orders.  I told him my orders were from my Captain for me to remain there until the wagons returned for it.  He smiled and said he did not advise to disobey orders, but that the pickets then in my front would be removed at 12 o’clock that night, and thought it would be safe after that; but the pickets were withdrawn between 9 and 10, and all firing ceased at dark, and I was taken in somewhere near midnight, by the 58th North Carolina Cavalry.  They came from toward our lines, and I supposed they were our men until they sang out–“Surrender, you–Yank.”  Next morning I was taken to Atlanta, before a General Pember or Penter, and was there questioned for half an hour, about Sherman and his army.  He thought Sherman was on the back track towards Nashville, and that our army was out of grub, on account of Wheeler’s cutting the railroad so that we could not get supplies.  I said “Yes,” to all that, and in twenty-four hours, Sherman was in Atlanta.  This officer was an Englishman.  He said that Sherman was worse than any pirate and his men were robbers.  He said, “Your army has been firing into the city, with our women and children here, but have not killed anything but a wench and a mule, but this is not Sherman’s fault.”  I took good notice, as I passed through, that we had knocked many a hole in the buildings: nearly every one that did not have a cellar, had a hole dug back of the house, covered with pine logs and dirt, to crawl into when we would open with our batteries.  The night before the movement, our four guns fired one hundred (100) rounds, each.

            On the morning of Aug. 6th., we started for Macon.  Remained a few hours at East Point, where there were about 30 more “Yanks” brought in.  I could see that the “rebs” were very anxious to get us off.  If they had remained there a few hours longer, we would have been recaptured, as Sherman’s cavalry were up to the track next day.

             Reached Macon 27th.  Were put in a large building that looked like a warehouse.  The guards told us that it had held “heaps of you-uns, before.”  Here I was made to take off a good pair of artillery boots, almost new, and was given in exchange an old worthless pair of shoes, by a rebel officer.  One of my guards next took my jacket.  It was new–had drawn it only the week before and had not had time to put on my chevrons.  They gave me an old blouse, taken as they said, from a dead “Yank”.  The natives, all along the road, were very abusive and at some stations, the women were the worst.  We would have fared badly had it not been for our guards.

Captain Henry Wirz, known as “the Demon of Andersonville”

            Arrived at Andersonville, Aug. 29th., I think.  Was marched in front of old Wirz’s headquarters–that infernal devil that was hung for obeying Jeff. Davis’ orders, and the Arch Traitor allowed to go free and is living today, (Sept. 1888,) and if he wished, could be drawing his $16 pension per month from the government he tried so hard to destroy, while thousands of old soldiers who gave the best three years of their lives to serve and maintain the Government, and now in poor-houses, throughout the land–many without pensions.  But I have got off the track.

Illustration of Andersonville Prison, South View

            There were about thirty of us in the squad.  We all stood in single file.  Wirz ordered a “reb” to search “every Cott tam Yank.”  Those who showed any resistance were stripped.  Money, watches, pocket knives, pictures of wives, children or other dear ones, were taken.  One soldier had an ambrotype of his wife or mother, I did not learn which, as he was about half-way down the row and I was at the head.  He tried to retain it which made Wirz so mad he snatched it from him, and threw it on the ground and with his boot-heel rent it in pieces.  The boy made some remark for which he was taken off by two “rebs” and put in the stocks for six hours.

            We were then turned into the pen.  I will not attempt to describe it, for I could not do it justice; for, as comrade McElroy says in his book on Andersonville, that “would require a Carlyle or a Hugo,” so I would refer the reader to McElroy’s Book.  I can vouch for the truthfulness of his statement in the different prisons in which I was confined, and will add that he has not all, for the English language cannot describe it.  There had been 35,000 prisoners in there at one time; but at that date, there were reported to be 28,000, and the death-rate over 100 per day.  We were piled with questions about Sherman, and if the Confederacy would soon be “played out”, and if there was any news about exchange, and many questions to relieve the minds and bodies that were starving to death by inches.

            I wandered along, crossed the swamp near the rebel sutler’s tent and sat down on the ground and began to think what chance there was for me to live in such a place with not a thing to cook or even to eat my rations in, if I had any, except an oyster can a guard gave me in exchange for my tin cup, and an old jack-knife that I had slipped in my shoe with the photograph of my four children.  These I kept all through and brought home with me.

Illustration of Andersonville Prison, North View

            While sitting there, I could see the sand alive with “gray-backs,” so I got up and began to hunt for the “hundred” I was put in, but did not find it that night.  Another sergeant who belonged to an Iowa regiment, who was turned in with me, and I, lay down on the ground, but not to sleep.  We talked about what we had seen in the few hours we had been in.  He said, “It does not seem possible that our Government can know or believe that it is one-tenth as bad as this, or it would march an army here at once and release the prisoners.  Why if our women in the North, could even take one look in here, they would march down here and turn the ‘boys’ out!”  That is the way we talked, until the sentry on the box sang out, “Three o’clock and all is well!” when we closed our eyes.

            We did not find our squad next day, in time to draw our rations; but that did not trouble as much then as it did later on.  We thought we never could eat wormy peas and a piece of half-baked corn bread.  That night about sundown, I was beginning to feel as if I could eat something, if I could get it, so I went down to the “Providence Spring,” as it is now called.  It had broken out a few weeks before I came in after a heavy rain.  I think the water had dammed up against the stockade and followed along the bottom of a trench that it was set in, five or six feet deep, until it struck some of our tunnels, and then broke through on our side.  It was a Godsend to the prisoners, no matter where it came from, and it probably saved thousands of lives that the rebels intended should go by drinking from the swamp that received the filth of 35,000 prisoners.

            But to return:–I had taken a drink and filled my can and was returning, when I ran across Geo. Pickle, a comrade of the 100th. Illinois, captured at Chattanooga.  We had been school-mates.  We were both surprised and I was delighted to find some one in that hell I was acquainted with.  I went to his hole in the ground, covered with half a “pup tent”, and there took my first meal in Andersonville.  He had some soup made from cow peas, and every pea seemed to have from two to four bugs, and when he handed me some in my can I began to skim off the bugs, he smiled and said that in a few days I would be very glad to take my soup–bugs and all, which proved too true.

            In about three weeks, I was taken with bloody flux, and did not expect to recover.  Nothing but a determination to live and return, was all that kept most of us alive at that time.  I told my Iowa friend (I wish I could recall his name,) to take my photographs and write my wife if he should ever be released.  We had nothing over us, but lived in a hole scooped out of the bank.  I had half a canteen.  He had been watching for a rat he had seen come out of a hole near the cook house, and had made a snare from some horse hair to which he attached a string.  Then he put the snare over the hole, and would lie and watch for hours.  At last he “fetched him,” and I think he saved my life.  I was able to sit up, but could not walk.  I think I can taste that rat soup to this day!  I soon got so I could walk around once more.

            Some may think that swearing does not good.  Well perhaps not, in “God’s Country”; but I have seen prisoners so low that they could not stand, who, after damning the rebels for ten minutes, could get up and walk!

From Library of Congress

            Sometimes we would wish to be God for a while, and we should have the rebels suspended over hell, with a knife to cut the rope.  This, talking about “something good to eat”, and various plans of escape, and the prospects of being exchanged, were about all our conversation.  We wondered why our Government did not exchange us.

            Many tunnels were started.  Some of them were underway for months.  The rebels would find them out by one who was nearly starved, betraying his comrades for the chance of being taken outside and having full rations.  We would have killed them, if we could have got hold of them then, but now, when I look back and think it over, I cannot blame them, for in their starved condition, they were not accountable for what they did, when it was for something to eat.

            I worked nights for three weeks, in one of those tunnels.  We were all sworn to secrecy.  Our tools were case and butcher knives, a half canteen and a broken shovel.  We would haul the dirt up in bags made of meal sacks, hang them around our necks, and walk around the camp and scatter it as we went.  In the morning nothing could be seen.  We had dug under two of the stockades, (there were three around the prison,) and were waiting a favorable night to make a break, when it was discovered!  Some thought we had been betrayed, but we could never spot the man.  Some of the second row of logs of the stockade, began to sink.  We had run up too close to them.  The “rebs” began to dig, and soon found our hole.

            I never tried tunneling after that in Andersonville, for I now began to feel the effects of my prison diet.  Scurvy and diarrhea both began on me.  One of my legs began to swell.  My left foot got to be about twice the ordinary size.  My gums were swollen and my teeth were so loose, I could pick every one of the front ones out with my fingers.

            The few rags I had on were only kept together by sticks or stings.  I never saw, while I was there in any of the prisons, one garment of any kind, issued by thee rebel government.  The only way our supply was kept up, was by taking the clothing from the dead, and then we would draw lots for the different pieces.  We would tie a string (with something for a tag, attached, giving his name and regiment,) around the neck of the dead.  The rebels would throw the dead in the mule wagons like so many slaughtered hogs, and in the same wagons that they brought our rations in.  There were some prisoners brought in–a Tennessee regiment, that Wirz stripped almost naked because they were from a Southern State and when I left Andersonville, a great many of them had nothing on but a piece of old blouse or drawers around the waist, like Indians; but unlike them, they had no blankets and no covering at night, but would huddle together like hogs, to keep warm; and in January, that winter, ice formed thicker than window glass, a number of nights; and almost every night, there was white frost.

            Every day we would take of every rag we had on, and “esa” as we called it.  We would turn our clothes and pick off the “graybacks,” throw them on the ground and then dress.  When one became so weakly or negligent that he did not perform this duty every day, you could tell about how long he would live; for it was only a matter of time, if he had any clothes; for it would not take the “graybacks” long to suck out what little blood he had left in him, as the sand that we lay was alive with them.

            My leg and foot began to grow some better so I could walk around.  I dug some roots out of the swamp that received the filth of the camp, and pounded them up, steeped them in my can, and drank the tea.  I did not know or care what they were.

            About this time I sold some corn mean beer on commission, for a comrade who had in some way, smuggled in some greenbacks and bought a sack of meal.  He would put some in water and let it stand in the sun, then add a little sorghum, and in two weeks it made splendid beer–that is, we thought so.  For every four cups I sold, I got a 5 cent greenback or 25 cents “Confed”.  I think this sour drink helped my scurvy.

Graveyard at Andersonville Prisoner of War Camp, Library of Congress

            Our men did all the work of burying our dead comrades, and when any were taken out to do that work, they took an oath not to go over two miles from the camp, and they got full rations while out.  When I first got in the pen, I found a brother Scot by the name of John B. Walker, a shoemaker.  He was taken out to make shoes for Wirz’ wife and daughters.  He made them from Yankee boot tops, as leather was $60 to $70 per pound.  I sent work by a rebel driver, for Walker to get me out side to help in the cemetery, if possible.  In about a week, I was taken out with four others, and sent to the Yankee prisoners’ quarters.  I found Walker the man I think I owe my life to.  He was from a Pennsylvania regiment.  I forget the number.  He showed me a pencil sketch of the pen, and at the close of the war, he had it lithographed and sent me a couple of views.  I have not heard from him since.  The first night out, we all ate too much.  If it had not been for our friends, three of the five would soon have been laid in the shallow trenches that we went out to dig for others.  I never can forget that night’s eating, for we wanted to eat all the time.  It was good corn meal, not coarse stuff, such as was served to us inside.  Two were turned back in a few days.  I did not do one half my task, but some of my comrades helped me.

            The trench was six and a half feet wide and two feet deep.  The dead was laid in as close as they could be then a short board was put down at the head of each, with whatever name or regiment that was on the tag pinned on his rags or tied around his neck.

            I was out two weeks; but had to be returned inside, as I was too weak to do any work.  I saved about three pounds of meal to take back.  I made me a shirt from a meal sack, by cutting a hole for my head and one for each arm.  I had then been some time without any.  I also made a pair of pants from another sack.  I took in with me a hickory stick for a walking cane.  The shavings that I cut off in making it, served to cook my peas.  I have it yet.

             While outside, we could hear the chaplains pray every night, asking God to destroy the “Yanks”, and drive the invaders from the South; but not one of them ever came inside or said one word to us about this world or the other–I mean of the Protestant ministers.  There was a Catholic priest by the name of Hamilton–a pleasant-spoken man.  I think he came from Macon.  He would come among the prisoners and would perform the last rite of the church for one who wanted him to; but we could not get one word from him about how things were progressing outside.  I asked him one day, to bring a newspaper, but he shook his head–he did not trouble himself about such matters.  One day a little dog followed him inside the stockade.  Whether it was his or some “reb’s”, we never knew.  I followed him for nearly an hour, to catch the dog; but could not make it.  I think he mistrusted, for the dog never came again.  O, what a feast we would have had, if I had caught that dog!  I could have cut him up and sold him for 50 cts. greenback, and his hide would have been a fortune!

            To quote a few notes taken at the time–“Andersonville, Sept. 8th.  This morning, 2,000 of us were taken out and put on board the cars, 80 in a car.  The “rebs” told us we were going to be exchanged–300 having gone the day before.  Were two days and nights on the cars.  Were not allowed to get out for anything.  The guards would give us but little water.  Arrived at Savannah on 10th.  Entered the city on Liberty street.  Lay in the cars an hour, as the pen was not ready.  We were surrounded by the Stay-at-home guards and the belles of the city.  Some of the remarks of both, made us bite our lips; but we had to take it.

Sgt. Magnus Tait, posted by David Matthews, Findagrave.com

            We were then unloaded and marched up Washington street past a large prison, to the outskirts of the city and halted, as the fence was not quite finished.  It was a large enclosure somewhat like fairgrounds at the North–posts and strings with twelve foot boards nailed on the inside.  As we lay there on the grass, what a contrast to the lice and filth we had left!

            A few minutes after we were halted, a number of women with servants, carrying large baskets filled with victuals, covered with white clothes, asked permission to distribute them among the prisoners; but a rebel officer near me, ordered them to leave the grounds at once, or he would have them all arrested.  O! what a tempting sight were those white covered baskets!  They were so near the squad I was in so that we could smell the stuff, and I think I can smell it yet, after all these many long years!  Remember, we had had nothing for the trip but one “hard-tack” and whatever we had on hand to start with.

            We were turned inside Sept. 11th., the pen was so crowded that we could hardly lie down.  They had put 1,000 more in that they had calculated on.  They had been sent to some pen in South Carolina; but the “Yanks” had burned a bridge, so they were returned and put in there.  We drew rations that day–the best we had had in the Confederacy, and more of them; meal–1/2 lb., bacon one inch square, rice–1 pint, salt–one tablespoonful and wood to cook with–something we never received at Andersonville, although we were there in midst of a pine forest.  Every other day, we would get a small piece of beef instead of bacon.  This is about what our rations were, while we were at Savannah.  About once a week, they would drive in the pen with a barrel of poor molasses.  Some of the boys called it Sorghum.  Each one would get a small allowance.  It was fine for the scurvy.  Some would drink it and some would make beer with it and a little rice water.

            When I was turned in, I looked around to see if there were any one I knew, but could find none.  I sat down by the gate and wondered how long before we could see God’s country.  I had now an old quilt, a tin plate, half-pint cup, a spoon I had made out of a piece of tin, and a 50 cent greenback I had made peddling tobacco.  The quilt, cup and plate, I got from a comrade who was taken out for exchange.

            While sitting there, three members of the 5th Indiana Cavalry, came along.  Their names were Nathan Williams, Thompson Alexander and John Doughety.  We formed a squad by ourselves.  They had one blanket and one half “put tent”.  I took my 50 cents and bought some small poles.  We took the tent and blanket and made a cover to keep off the sun.  By lying close together and “spooning”, we could be covered at night with my quilt.

            That night I dug out under the fence, with my half canteen.  The ground was sand, and the boards were down only a few inches.  The night was very dark.  I went right into the city, for we had heard there were many Union people in Savannah.  I thought it I could only strike one of them and could be secreted until Sherman arrived, I would be all right.

            When I had got well down into the town, had crossed two railroad tracks, and was wishing I could meet some darkey, (for I knew he would direct me O.K.), when I ran right into two men who took hold of me and asked me who I was and where I was going.  I did not answer as quickly as I ought, and when I did, I gave myself away.  One was a rebel corporal.  He turned me over to the other who was a citizen.  He took me to his house and locked me up in his smoke-house.  Next morning I was given a corn pone and a bowl of milk–the first I had in the Confederacy.  I was then taken down to the pend and hurried in without any punishment, as the lieutenant in charge said it was his business to hold us, and our to get away if we could.

            The pen was terribly crowded.  They had put in one-third more than was intended.  The citizens were afraid we would breed some contagious disease.  The mayor and others told the officer in charge, that if it were not enlarged or some of us sent away, they would tear the pen down some night.  They did not care so much for our comfort as for their own health.  They then extended the pen and also dug a ditch on the inside, a short distance from the fence, which stopped all further tunneling under it.  The ditch also served as a dead line.

              One day, in the afternoon, a darky drove in with his four-mule team and the barrel of “long-sweetening”, as the boys called it.  It was a very warm day, and the jolting of the wagon had stirred it up, and when it was rolled off, it struck on the chimb, and the head blew out and scattered about one-half on the boys who stood around.  In the confusion, I crawled under the wagon and got up on the hounds.  When I had got in about as small space as possible, I looked around, and there lay another Yank on the front hounds!  We did not have long to wait.  The darky soon got up on the wheel-mule, took up his rope line and drove out the gate.  We went about two miles, to the edge of the timber to a wood camp.  I told my chum to lie quiet until dark, and we would then slip the city; but as soon as the driver unhitched and turned out his mules, he called to some other darky to come and help him “off wid de box an’ put on de wood-rack” to haul a load of wood to the prison next morning.  When they lifted the box, we scared them so badly they let it drop!  The white boss who was standing near, took charge of us, put us in one of the board shanties, gave us a good supper and breakfast and said he would have to turn us in, as there were two other white men there who saw us. This old man appeared to be for the Union, as much as he dared be.  He was seventy-five years old, and said the Confederacy has about gone to h–l and he was glad of it–that he had lost two sons fighting for the d—d slave-holders.

            We rode into the prison, next morning, under guard of one of the white men, armed with a fine English breech-loading shotgun.  We escaped punishment again but every wagon that went out after that was searched inside and out.  I never knew that comrade’s name, but he belong to an Iowa regiment, and if this should ever reach him, I wish he would write me at Los Gatos, Cal.

Map of Camp Lawton at Millen, Georgia. 8600 prisoners confined November 14, 1864, Library of Congress image

            Savannah, Ga., Oct. 12th.  This morning the rebels told us we were going to be exchanged–the old story, when they wanted to run us to some new place or “bull-pen”, as we called it.  We were put in boxcars, eighty to a car, and run to Millen, Ga., called Camp Lawton.  It is a new camp, with plenty of stump-wood.  The trees had all been chopped down and hauled away.  A stream of water runs by it like Andersonville, but no swamp.  As we were among the first arrivals, we had plenty of wood.  Rations not as good as Savannah-less meal and more cow peas.  The man who donated this land for our use, was a rebel captain.  His wife said they owned 900 acres of land there, and she hoped they would catch enough dirty Yanks to cover their entire tract.  (That man since represented this government in Austria–one of Cleveland’s appointments.)

            October 25th.  This morning Thompson Alexander died.  We drew lots for his clothes.  His boots fell to me.  I cut the tops off and traded them to a rebel guard for $5.00 worth of tobacco which I cut up in small pieces, half an inch wide, and peddled them around camp–sold them for 5 cts. greenbacks, or 25 cts. “Confed.” or one ration.  I limited myself to three pipes per day.

            Nov. 8th.  This morning the rebel captain came in and told us they were voting for Lincoln and McClellan, in the North, and he wanted the pen to vote, to see how we stood.  I was appointed one of the judges.  The Johnnies came in to see that we had fair play.  We used black beans for Old Abe and white ones for McClellan.  When we counted up, we had polled 4,500 for Old Abe.  At that time there were not over 6,000 in the pen.  The vote made the rebels made.  The keeper said he hoped that we would lay there until the maggots carried us out of the stockade.

            In about a week or ten days an order came to exchange 700 prisoners.  We never knew what the order from our Government was, but we heard it was to take 700 sick.  But they took very few sick men, unless they had a watch or $50 in greenbacks; or, if they were Masons they were O.K.  A $50 greenback, a gold watch, or even a silver one, was all that was needed to again see God’s country and Home!

            About the 20th of November, several rebel officers came into camp and told us our Government had forsaken us and was content to let us lie in prison and rot–that England and France were about to recognize the Confederacy, and that the best we could do was to enlist in the Southern army.  We would get good clothes and plenty to eat and the same pay as their soldiers.  A few went out, but I never knew how many.  I know that several were from New York city–mostly Irishmen who had been cursing Old Abe and praising McClellan, as much as they dared in the pen.  The next day they called out every foreigner and wanted every man who was not born in the United States, to go outside the stockade.  I supposed we were then going to be exchanged; but after drawing us up in line and separating the artillery, cavalry and infantry–each by themselves, they made about the same talk as the day before.  I was offered a lieutenant’s commission in a battery; if I would join the Confederacy and take the oath; but I told them NO!  I would do anything outside, that I was able to do, that did not require me to take an oath against my country–that I would try the pen awhile longer.  There were a few who availed themselves of this way to get out–some few in good faith, hoping to get a chance to desert to our lines; but the most who went were men who hated the “d—d Nagur.”  They said all the war was got up for was to free them.  They were going on the other side.

              Toward the last of November, we were ordered out and hurried into box cars–70 to 80 in a car, and given two hard-tack.  The most of us took what cooking utensils we had along, although the guards told us we were going to be exchanged; but they had lied so often to us that we could not believe them.  We heard rumors that Sherman was getting too close to Camp Lawton.  We were run to Savannah, then changed cars and went on the Gulf road.  We were five days going 80 miles.  All we had to eat on this journey, was the two hard-tack and a pint of shelled corn.  A great many died, when they came to eat the dry, hard corn.   The engine was about played-out and if it had not been for a Yank who helped repair it, they would probably have had to abandon it.  We arrived at Blackshear, Ga., Dec. 3d. 1864, in the night, and marched into an open field.  It was the coldest night I ever felt, while a prisoner.  Ice froze two inches thick.  We had only two log fires for all 4,000 men.  The strong kept away the weak ones from it.  I tried it, but was shoved away, and I wandered around trying to keep warm or from freezing.  I think I suffered more that night than nay other, while a prisoner–at least, I remembered it with greater horror than any other night!  In the morning stiffened bodies lay around in all directions!  I remember one place close to the track, where five men lay dead, with a thin, old blanket over them.  I never knew, nor have I ever heard, whether these bodies have been removed, or if there is anything to mark their resting place.  We never could get the right count; but we heard before we left, they had buried 300 Yanks, or, as the guards said:  “We have 300 less to guard.”  Others said there were only hundred and sixty.

Blackshear Prison, considered as a ‘corral’ for human beings.

            We remained at Blackshear a few days.  It was only a railroad station, in a heavy pine woods.  A few long-haired natives–very old and slab-sided women–came to see us.  They looked as if they thought we were some wild animals they had never seen before.  I heard one woman say she had not thought the Yanks were so black, and another said we did not have thick lips and curly hair like their darkies.  We were just as black as any Southern field hand, caused by the pine smoke from what little fire we did have and not having seen any soap from the time we went in.  One thing that looked strange to us was–all the young women (and the old ones, too,) seemed to be as straight as the pine trees that surround them.  Bosoms or busts they did not have, nor were there any visible, outward signs of any; and even the negro wenches we saw there, were not burdened in that way.  Some of the boys, while we were waiting at the platform for the cars to be backed up, were making observations about how the children were raised, and most of them tow-headed, when one Yank said the country was so d—d poor that the women could not give milk to their children, and they had to be raised on cow’s milk.  Some one in the crowd heard it and told the rebel captain.  He called the man out and asked if he made those remarks.  He acknowledged that he did, and told him what remarks they had been making about us.  It pleased the captain so much that he told the guard to “give that Yank an extra hard-tack.”  He said that the men who built that railroad through such a country ought to be hung; and if he remained there a few days longer, he would hunt around and kill all the cows and thereby cut off their supply, so they would have to move out, if they raised any more children.  That gave us the laugh, and we moved into the cars, and the natives took an extra dip of snuff!

            About Dec. 6th. or 7th., orders came to pull out, as Sherman was at Savannah; so we were again piled into cars, and run to Thomasville, the end of the Gulf R.R.  We were fifty-two hours making the trip, with an old, asthmatic engine, and four, small hard-tack to eat, for the entire journey.  That was all that was issued to us by the rebs; but there were a few who had some money, and they could some sweet potatoes and now and then, a pie which was sure death, unless the Yank who ate it, was able to walk around a few hours after.  I got some sweet potatoes twice, on the trip. I traded some Yankee buttons that I had cut from the jacket of a soldier who died in the car that I was in, which I did if I could get to them first or before the rebel guards came around.  The were just as good as greenbacks.

            My teeth and gums were so bad with scurvy that I could not use them.  I had a piece of hoop iron with one edge sharpened some on a stone.  This I would use as a knife to scrape the potatoes.  I began to improve from the first potato I got hold of.

            Thomasville is quite a town, on a rise of ground, and is surrounded by swamps–the county seat of Thomas County–was reported by the natives where we were there, to have 2,500 inhabitants.

            We were turned in the woods, and a strong guard placed.  Several of the boys got away.  Quite a number returned and gave themselves up.  They told me they waded in swamps waist deep.  They did not think it of use to try to escape, as the turnpike and railroad brides were both guarded but I heard of a few who did reach our gun-boats after terrible suffering.

            Our rations were mostly yams–very little bread, some rice and pure water: so most of the camp began to pick up.  A few of the very weak ones dropped away very quickly.

            About Dec. 10th., the rebel sergeant in charge of the rebel guard, (who was a Scotchman from Canada, and as all the men in his department had to enlist, he enlisted in Home Guards; but was a good Union man) came in and he and I had a few talks on the sly, from which I inferred that the Confederacy was about on its last legs.  One morning, he came to me and wanted to know if I could repair a piano.  If I could, I would be taken outside and up town, and have plenty to eat. I told him I used to make pianos, in the North; but was afraid I could tune one then, as I had been out of practice so long.

            Next morning, an order came from the captain, that I should go to headquarters and take an oath not to go two miles from the city, and must report every morning–the sergeant agreeing to stand for me.  He told the captain that our fathers were acquainted with each other, in Canada.  The sergeant told me that the furniture which I was to repair, belonged to one of the nobbiest families in town.  I am sorry that I cannot recall his name; but the man was a colonel of a Georgia regiment, then in front of Richmond, and had charge of a brigade.  I looked down at my baggy pants that I had cut and made myself, from meal sacks, and said I did not look presentable to go in a lady’s parlor; so he took me up to his quarters, and there, by the aid of soft soap, I did manage to take off most of the black that had been there from the time I first struck Andersonville.  It was the first wash with soap of any kind, in the Confederacy.  I had thrown away my old shoes that I had tied on my feet with strings, and had taken a very good pair from a dead comrade, in the cars, and I had just completed a shirt and a pair of pants, with very wide legs, from meal sacks.  The sergeant cut my hair as close as shears could do it, and he gave me an old hat and jacket, and I was fixed!  I lay around his tent that day, and that evening, went down to headquarters to report.  Some of my old bunkmates did not know me.  They thought I would not live long, I looked so white!  I told them about soft soap, and smuggled them in some peanuts which I got from a New York man–an engineer on the road–with a promise of more and an invitation to go to his house.

            The next morning I went to Mrs. Col. _____’s house with the sergeant, and was introduced as “Captain Tait, of the Yankee Army,” and was to remain there as long as she had work for me to do.  They owned sixty negroes, but most of the able-bodied men were at the front, working on fortifications, or had run away.  The negro quarters were full–or seemed so to me–of young ones, from babies up to fourteen.  They were of all colors, from very black to very light complexions.

            One of the casters had come off a leg of the piano, the rack that held the music was broken, some drawers in a bureau needed fixing, the runners had become loose, and the dining table needed some screws.  Well, glue was one thing I wanted.  She did not think there was any nearer than Savannah.  She was very kind, and was surprised at my weak and emaciated condition–asked me all manner of questions.  I told her if she thought I was thin, she ought to see some of those in prison.  She said it was a shame to treat the prisoners so, when the Yankee government gave their prisoners so much to eat.  She told me she had a brother captured in Shiloh, who was taken to one of the Northern prisons.  He was exchanged and went home, and could not say too much in praise of the amount and quality of food we issued to the rebels.

            It was there that I first beheld myself in a glass.  To tell the truth, I did not know myself!  If my photograph had been taken without my knowledge, and shown me, I should have asked who it was.

            I told the lady that if I had some glue and tools, I could fix her furniture.  She spoke to a servant and gave her a bunch of keys.  In a few minutes she came in with a tray on which was piece of gingerbread and a glass of wine.  She told me to take it–she knew it would help me, I looked so weakly.  Now, this time I had made up my mind not to eat or drink too much, as I did at Andersonville.  The wine, she said, was some that had run the blockade at Savannah, before our gun-boats got so thick.  I did not know the name of it.  I drank it.  She sent out for an old darkey who looked to be a hundred years old.  She told him to take me out to the carpenter’s shop, and see if I could find any tools, and to obey my orders, while I was at the house.  I went to the shop.  It was at one end of the negro quarters.  The darky told me he did not think there was anything in the shop but a few old, broken tools, as Jeff. Davis had sent for their carpenter to repair the railroad, and he had taken all the tools.

            I had just reached the shop.  He opened the door–all I could see was a work bench.  I remember taking hold of it as it came swinging around! and lay down on it.  Imported wine was too much for me! when I awoke, it was afternoon, and I felt rested.  The darky had closed the door to keep the young “trash” from crowding around the shop to get a peep at a real, live “Yank”.  I told him to tell his mistress that I could not find any tools around the plantation; that I would go down to the round-house of the railroad and see if I could find some and be up next day.  I took a back street to camp, to avoid being stared at by the natives.  When I had got half way back, a young lieutenant, who was home on furlough, came up and told me he would arrest me and take me back to camp, as someone had seen me come out of the negro quarters.  So I marched down and that young cub preferred those charges.  I thought now that I had got myself into a scrape.  I waited there about an hour, until the captain came.  I told my story of how I went to the quarters.  He wrote a note and sent an orderly up to the house.  I never knew what the note contained, nor what answer came from the colonel’s wife, but I was released when he read it.  He then gave me a pass that read something like this:  “TO ALL WHOM IT MAY CONCERN,–Know ye, that Sergeant Tait, Yankee prisoner, is allowed to go anywhere within two miles of the city.  He is to report at these headquarters every evening.  Captain, C.S.A.

            Next morning I went to the little repair shop and found my New York friend.  I there got some prepared glue made in London, and some tools–a wood-saw, a file and a gimlet, for Mrs. “F.” as I will call her had brought half a dozen silver-plated knives and forks without handles, and wanted to know if I could put wooden handles on them.  She seemed to think a “Yank” could do almost everything.  So next morning I went to work, and in a week, had Mrs. F. well fixed up, considering the tools and material I had to work with.  Every day, at dinner, when she was alone, I dined with her and the family.  My breakfast and supper, I took in the kitchen; alone, waited on by one of the house-servants.  The dinners consisted of milk, corn bread, bacon, and yams.  She had had very little to eat for six months.

            I was then invited to the New York man’s house, to dinner.  He and his wife were both Union people, caught South when the war broke out.  How anxious the wife was to return to her people!  She gave me half a bushel of peanuts and I took them to camp.

            I was afraid that I would then be again turned in; but about Dec. 20th, a carpenter by the name of Wood, from one of the New England States, came into camp and wanted to get some carpenters to out to work.  He had gone South a few years before the war, and was even more bitter against the abolitionists, than the men were who owned slaves.  He offered to give the carpenters good quarters and plenty to eat, and the oath we had to take was similar to the one I had taken.  Nathan Williams, John Dougherty, I and some others whose names I cannot now remember, took the oath.  [A few years ago, I had a letter from Comrade Dougherty who was then living in his native State, Indiana.]

            We were to build works for slaughtering hogs.  We had about 40 darkies to help us.  They did all the heavy work, as we were not able to use an axe.  We put posts in the ground about two feet, had them stick up seven feet and then pinned 2 x 10 pieces on them, flatwise.  Then, every four feet, we put in a stout peg to hand the hog on.  We put up several of these about ten feet apart, enough to hang up 200 hogs.

            We had just got ready to slaughter, when word came that we were too near Sherman.  An order came to drive the hogs to Oglethorpe 40 miles south of Macon.  Mr. Wood and the “Yanks”, and negro cooks, started for Albany, in a wagon.  There we took cars for Oglethorpe, a small town on the Southwestern R.R.  There we erected the same arrangements for slaughtering, as we had made at Thomasville.  We had good quarters in an old warehouse, where we found about 400 Bibles that were sent down from Boston before the war, to be distributed to the heathen.  I gobbled one, and have it in my house now.

            We slaughtered about 800 hogs, dry-salted the meat, and rendered the lard.  We had plenty of fresh meat and corn meal, but no vegetables.  Still, we could hardly do half a day’s work in a day.  The scurvy now began to appear, and the diarrhea that seemed to ease up somewhat when we first got out and received full rations, now came back worse than ever.

            There I saw the first slave woman stripped and whipped until the blood ran down her back.  She was a house servant–an octoroon, eighteen or twenty years old.  She was accused of stealing a turkey.  Her hands were tied to a limb of a tree, above her head.  Her feet were also tied.  An old man did the whipping.  The yard was full of white children and the rest of the slaves that I suppose, belonged to the place.  He gave her twenty lashes on the back.  She pleaded with her mistress to spare her, as she said she was innocent; but her mistress told her to confess and tell where the turkey had gone, and told the old devil to give her a dozen more.  Before he got through her clothes fell from around her waist, to the ground.  She appeared to swoon and hung by the rope that held her hands, stark naked, before the crowd.  The slave women took her down and carried into one of the cabins.  They did not know that a couple of Yanks were looking at them through cracks in the fence!  About a week after, one of the darkies in our gang, told me he knew the negro that took that gobbler, and the girl knew nothing about it.  It was over a week before we saw the girl out again.         

            Rumors began to come that “Sherman was raising h–l through Georgia.”  That is the way our boss put it.

            There were a few Union men there, but we could only converse with them after dark.  They were mostly old men who had always voted the Whig ticket.  I want to state here, that I never ran across a man in the Slave States, either while a prisoner or soldiering, who was a Union man and Democrat or had voted with that party; but every Union man had been a Whig and then was with the Republican party.  Major Bacon, the man who had control of the whole business, was a very bitter rebel.  He was quite old and had been in the Mexican War.  He owned several slaves, but most of them had run into the Yankee lines.  We said among ourselves, that we were making this bacon for “Uncle Billy” Sherman; and sure enough, the Union Calvary got every pound, but the live Bacon got away.

            About the 15th. of February, orders came to stop slaughtering hogs, as Sherman’s cavalry was too near, all “pa-roled” Yanks were ordered in.  We were told that we were to be taken back to Andersonville and there paroled; but we had been lied to so much, we did not and could not believe it.  We three talked much about making a break for our lines.  We had no means of knowing how close we were to them.  Had we known, at that time, that our cavalry was so near, we could have made a break and got to them in a few days.  We had about made up our minds to make the trail, when I broached the subject to Mr. Wood.  I told him plainly that as he had used us like men, we would not try, while we were in his charge.  We gave him our word that, while he had control, we would be on hand; but that the night that he might turn us over and get his receipt, we thought of taking “French leave.”  He advised me, on his word as a Northern man, that the Confederacy was on its last legs and could last but a few months longer, and he thought the quickest orad home, was to go ahead and be turned over; and; sure enough, it went to h–l in a few months after.

            We were taken to Albany and there met the remainder from Thomasville–between three and four thousand–I do not remember the number.

            We marched across Flint river, over a covered bridge.  When at the middle of the covered part, we met a darky with a mule team and a wagon loaded with ear corn, coming across.  The rebel guards ahead, made him haul up along one side and they went on.  By the time one third of the Yanks had passed, he did not have one ear of corn left.  Some of them got two, three and four ears.  I go two.  They came very handy before we got to our lines, but I felt sorry for the poor darky.  We wanted him to leave the team and go with us.

            We went by rail to Montgomery and Selma, and then to Meridian, Miss.  There we remained a few days, as the rest of the way to Vicksburg was to be made on foot.

            My left leg was swollen to twice its natural size with the scurvy, and the diarrhea had been my greatest trouble since I left Andersonville.

            Now, from there to the last day before we reached Black River, I do not remember anything.  It is all a blank to me.  All I know is what was told me by comrades who helped me along.  I should like to know their names.  One was a sergeant in the 5th or 8th Iowa.

            We were in charge of a rebel major.  It had been raining for several days, and we were the most deplorable-looking beings imaginable–scantily clothed, and what we had were rags.  We crossed Black River on pontoons, about four miles from Vicksburg, I think, and then took the cars for some point near town.

            I shall not try to describe the scene when we first saw the Old Flag floating over Vicksburg!  We had at last got sight of “God’s Country”!

The Battle of Vicksburg. The Union Army gained control, with the surrender of the Confederates, on July 4, 1863, over a year before Tait made it there. Library of Congress image

            Quite a number gave one cheer for that old flag and dropped down dead.  The excitement of being exchanged and getting home, had nerved them up to this time; but the emotional feelings were too much for them in their weak and starved condition.  As we marched or were carried, up the bank to the top of the hill where we were camped, we were served with coffee and whiskey, by colored soldiers who stood on each side.  Some were so weak that a cup of coffee made them drunk!

            We were then taken to McPherson Hospital, where our rags and “graybacks” were exchanged for a new suit of blue, but it took more than one scrubbing to get the black of prison-life, washed out.

            We were put in wards according to the States we were from.  Each State had agents from the Sanitary Commission, sent down with all kinds of delicacies.  The one from Illinois, was a Miss Lovejoy, a kind, loving young lady who never seemed to tire of ministering to our wants; for she was with us late at night and the first one we would see in the morning.

            The second morning, several of us were weighted by one of the sergeants.  My weight was 67 1/2 pounds, without hat or boots.  We were told that twenty were to be weighed and their weights sent to Washington, as evidence against Wirz; but I never knew whether they were sent for that purpose or to satisfy the scientific as to how poor and thin a man could get and live.

              With all the kind treatment we received, a great many died.  Some, when they got able to walk around, if no one watched them, would eat too much.  They were like children.  The day I got so I could walk outside with a crutch and cane, I could not go far.  I sat down under a pine tree, or rather a stump that a cannon ball from one side or the other, had taken the top off about thirty feet from the ground, during the siege.  Close to me lay a soldier, rolled up in his blanket–I supposed, asleep.  Soon a couple of guards came along and pulled the blanket off his head, when he jumped up and gave a yell, and tried to run but fell.  Under his blanket he had several loaves of bread, tin cups, canteens and tin plates!  He had recovered so he could walk around, still he was afraid the rations would be short, and he told the guard it would soon be as bad as Andersonville, and he would have some to start with!  That afternoon, he went into a tent where some colored soldiers stayed and ate all he could and carried off all that was left, so when he again went to Andersonville he would have a supply to start with.  That night, the poor fellow died, raving about something to eat.  Two days later, his wife came down, expecting to take him home.  He belonged to an Indiana regiment.

Example of man’s inhumanity — Starved to death. “Private Phillip Hattle, Co. I. 31st Pa. Vol’s. died June 25th 1865, caused by ill treatment while a prisoner of war in the hands of the rebels.” Library of Congress

            We were still in charge of the Rebel Major, and the way the bottom was being knocked out of the Confederacy, he found it very slow work to get a like number of rebs from Rock Island to exchange for us so he could make the trade and return South.  About two o’clock one night, we received the news that Lincoln had been murdered.  One who was not there cannot realize the feelings of those prisoners when they heard the account.  I think we felt worse than the soldiers in the field!  A few of us cut a rope from a tent and went for our rebel major with a firm intent to hang him to a pine tree that stood near, in retaliation, but in some way he got wind of our movements, and was gone, and next morning, he was nowhere to be found.  We kept quiet and said nothing about our “neck-tie party”.  I do not remember the names of any of the “party” or the regiments to which they belonged; but if this should ever be seen by any of those “boys”, I want to hear from them.

            The next morning, they began work to ship North all who were able to go.  The Sultana, a large boat, was loaded with over 2,000 persons.  I begged to be allowed to go; but the doctor in charge said I was not able and must wait for the next boat, which I did, going up the river on the Baltic, to Jefferson Barracks, Mo.  The Sultana, on the second night out, was blown up and some 1,600 lives lost, after they had braved death in the different rebel hells!  They were so near home and liberty and were to be either blown to pieces or find a watery grave, by the traitor’s devilish work of placing a torpedo in the boat’s coal.  The fiend who did it, acknowledged it in St. Louis, in 1887.

            I was now down again unable to walk, with a large abscess back of the knee of my left leg, and I had to be carried to the boat on a stretcher.  Before I was put in my berth, I saw a passenger run and jump overboard.  They had had hard work to get him on the boat, as he thought they were taking him to another rebel prison!  He had been lied to so much, and his mind being affected, he could not believe his own brother, who had come from Chicago to take him home.  I did not learn whether they recovered his body.  He belonged to the 85th or 86th Illinois.

            When we reached Jefferson Barracks, I was out of my head.  I do not remember anything about landing.  When I became rational, I found myself on a clean cot, and my blue suit replaced by a clean shirt and a pair drawers.  A man and woman were standing looking at me.  She asked him if he thought I would live.  He said the chances were against me.  I closed my eyes and heard them talk of my chances and what I had been talking about while out of my head.  They said I would talk about a wife and four children one minute, and d–n the rebels and old Wirz the next.  This surgeon and his good wife were from Wisconsin.  I would like to learn their names and address.  I wrote the Assistant Adjutant General of the State, several years ago, but he failed to find any record of them, as they were probably detailed from some headquarters.

Magnus Tait, circa 1890, photo courtesy of Magnus Warren Tait

            I heard him tell his wife to watch me closely and if I awoke in my right mind, to send for him at once, as he wanted to open the abscess and also to tell me that my wife would soon be there.  When I awoke, she gave me something to drink that had considerable whiskey in it.  She told me where I was and how I got there.  The first thing I asked for was something to eat.  I told her that it did not seem that our government was determined to finish the starving the rebs has so well begun; she smiled and said I could have anything I wanted, so I ordered six eggs; but do not remember what else; all of which she said I could have; but instead of getting them, the doctor came and took a look at my leg and told me it had to be opened at once or I would not live twenty four hours.  He said the surgeon at Vicksburg ought to be discharged for not attending to it before I was put on the boat.  I wanted him to give me some anesthetic while he ran his lance in, but he said–“No, you are too weak to stand it.  To be plain with you, now that you are in your right mind, the chances are ten to one against you.”  My leg was more than double its usual size.  While he had been talking to me, he had thrown off the cover.  The ward nurse had come in to assist in the operation.

            His wife put her arms around my neck, put her face down to mine and gave me a good hug; when he, at the same time, ran his lance into my leg.  His man was on hand with a basin.  I fainted, although there was no pain.  When I came to, I found they had taken out a pail of matter.

Antoinette Cooley Tait, wife of Magnus Tait, photo courtesy of Magnus Warren Tait

            I began to improve from that time.  I had written to my wife from Vicksburg, that we were to be sent to Jefferson Barracks, and I would be home as soon as I was able to travel.  A few days, (I do not remember how many,) after were the operation, as I lay on my cot, (I had not yet tried to walk or stand,) who should walk in with the doctor, but my wife and brother John!  To say that I was surprised, would be putting it too mildly.  It was rather too sudden for me just at that time, and they say I did not want to go home; but next morning they started with me.  With a pair of hospital crutches and their help, I could get along.

            The Post Surgeon would not let me go unless I took my discharge (June 19, 1865,) which I ought not to have done, as I did not do any work for years; and after twelve years, I received a pension of four dollars per month! and am still (June, 1888) drawing that amount, with a constitution wrecked by exposure and starvation in the five living hells I was confined in–Andersonville, Savannah, Millen, Blackshear and Thomasville, and the old arch traitor (who caused, or at least appointed and retained in office Wirz and Winder and sanctioned and approved their devilish methods of slaughter,) is still alive and enjoying all the blessings of this free country he tried so hard to destroy.  Hell will never be complete until he is there.  If Jeff. Davis is not consigned to the warmest corner of it, the other world should be entirely obliterated.

“Solider, rest, thy warfare o’er!”

Hie thee to thy home once more,

There may our saved, united land

Reward thee, with a grateful hand.

THE END

Notes to publisher from Antoinette Tait

Editor’s Prologue (K. Hawthorne): Captain Henry Wirz, of Andersonville Prison was arrested and “accused of committing 13 acts of personal cruelty and murders in August 1864: by revolver, by physically stomping and kicking the victim, by confining prisoners in stocks, by beating a prisoner with a revolver and by chaining prisoners together. Wirz was also charged with ordering guards to fire on prisoners with muskets and to have dogs attack a prisoner.” (Wikipedia). He was found guilty on several counts and hanged on November 10, 1865.

Magnus Tait survived his ordeal but was never the same physically and his experience as a prisoner of war and the cruelties he suffered and witnessed haunted his memories. He died September 19, 1906 in Santa Clara County, California.

Magnus Cooley Tait, son of Magnus and Antoinette Tait, owned a home, built in about 1886/87 at 511 North Tremont Street. It still stands today.

Home of Magnus Cooley Tait (son of Magnus Tait), 511 North Tremont Street, Oceanside, Cal. circa 1990

The History of Oceanside’s 2nd Pier and the Promise of Gold

After the demise of Oceanside’s first wharf in 1890, the beach was covered with its debris. Rather than let the lumber float away, or rot in the sand, Melchior Pieper, proprietor of the grand and beautiful South Pacific Hotel, began collecting the pilings and planks. He loaded them up on wagons and stored the material behind his hotel. Pieper even stamped his initials on the pilings and lumber.

What was his intention? He was looking to build interest and financial support for a new wharf to be built at the end of Third Street (Pier View Way). It would be beneficial to have a wharf at that location, attracting more business and more guests to the hotel, which was located just north of Third Street, but also moving the pier to a more central location in Oceanside’s small downtown.

The South Pacific Hotel. Melchoir Pieper and wife standing center.

Determined, Pieper even traveled to San Francisco in December of 1893 to meet with Anson P. Hotaling, owner of the South Pacific Hotel, (as well as considerable property throughout the city and South Oceanside) to attempt to persuade him to support the building a pier that would be beneficial for the hotel.  Pieper’s trip was successful, as Hotaling agreed to support the construction of a wharf. 

In April of 1894 a committee was formed and plans for the new wharf began. There was some resistance against the Third Street location, (a site between Second and Third was favored), but with Hotaling donating $350 and Pieper donating $100 and offering to board the workmen free, the disagreement was set aside.

Modest fundraising began with the Oceanside Silver Cornet Band holding a benefit ball at the Oceanside Opera House.  Tickets were just a dollar but the Benefit, hailed as a success, and raised $50 for the wharf fund.

Oceanside’s Silver Cornet Band played at local events, including the Wharf Benefit Ball.

Specifications for the new pier were listed in the local paper: “The wharf will be 400 feet long from high water mark, 12 feet wide, and four inch iron pipe will be used for piling, which will be strongly braced.  It will be floored with two inch planing and a wooden railing of 3 x 4 material will surmount it.  The entire length from the bluff will be about 600 feet.  The total cost will be about $1200.

By June over $1,000 was pledged and two weeks of labor donated. John A. Tulip, a member of the wharf committee, persuaded a resident in joining him in digging the first hole for one of the pilings to be used in the wharf’s approach.  Within days several bents and stringers were put in place and 200 feet of the approach were ready for flooring.

In June the wharf committee ordered 440 feet of iron pipe, which arrived from St. Louis in August.  In September of 1894 the Oceanside Blade reported that, “Work on the wharf is at last underway.  An overhang derrick, as it is called, has been constructed by Mr. Cook, the piles have been asphalted, the joints been banded and strengthened and the work of putting them in place begun.”

Work was done quickly, largely due to the diminished length of the new structure. Oceanside’s second pier was known as the “iron” wharf because of the iron that braced its pilings. When finished, the little iron wharf measured at a modest length of just over 600 feet. 

The new pier was not without its hazards, as there was no railing added for the safety of fishermen, pedestrians and especially small children. Even after a railing was added in February of 1895, there is some speculation as to how really safe it was.

The Oceanside Pier in 1894, note the rear of the South Pacific Hotel faced the ocean.

In August of that year 14-year-old Fannie Halloran was a near victim after she fell from the pier, as the Blade reported: [Fannie] “while fishing on the wharf last Saturday, caught a fish and in trying to land it got the line fastened about one of the pile, and, in leaning over trying to get it loose, lost her balance and took a header to the water below, a distance of about 14 feet.  She had learned recently to swim, immediately applied her knowledge in the direction to getting ashore, which, with some assistance from her father was easily accomplished.  No injury resulted, but quite a different report would no doubt have been the result had the young lady not exhibited great coolness and presence of mind.”

Still, Oceanside’s new wharf was popular with residents and visitors as the Blade noted, “A great many people from the back country are enjoying fishing from the wharf here. It is a great attraction and the best investment the people of this place ever made.”

Additional view of the “little iron wharf” in 1894. Note the bathhouses on the beach.

But noting that the approaching Independence Day celebration and festivities it also added: “We should not forget the wharf, and its further extension into the Occident.  [The] wharf is an investment that is an all-the-year standby. It will bring people as no other attraction here will or can.  Fishing is almost a passion with many, and from observation often confirmed, it is–by virtue of the little iron wharf at the foot of Third Street–a source of the only meat supply of many others. But its length will not warrant many persons fishing at once, and for boating facilities, for the same cause, it affords none.  The season should not be permitted to go by without extending it at least 200 feet further. As an investment to the town it is worth ten celebrations.”

That July 4th celebration in 1895 was a success but only highlighted the need for a longer pier, prompting a meeting by city leaders: “Dr. Nichols explained the call of the meeting to be for the above purpose and gave estimates which he had carefully compiled, based upon what work and expense had already been done.  The amount necessary to extend the wharf two hundred feet further would entail an expenditure of close to six hundred dollars.  He went on to state in his most eloquent fashion, the large benefit the wharf had already been to the city of Oceanside and that there was an assurance of a large number of families who would spend the summer here, and the cause of this was that Oceansiders were awake to the fact that to get the people from the hot interior towns to spend the heated, term, here, that inducements in the way of a pleasure and fishing wharf was an absolute necessity in connection with our natural inducements of climate, location, etc.

Talk continued to extend the wharf, one hundred, two hundred and even three hundred feet but nothing was done because of lack of funding. However, on September 17, 1896, Matthew W. Spencer and Melchior Pieper, members of the wharf’s Executive Committee, officially deeded the pier to the City of Oceanside.

In May of 1897, Giles Otis Pearce, a self-described “assayer, metallurgist and mining expert” from Colorado, collaborated with Oceanside inventor Wilton S. Schuyler, son of businessman John Schuyler.

Wilton S. Schuyler, circa 1948

A legitimate inventor, Wilton actually designed and built an early automobile in 1898 which he called the “Oceanside Express.” He received a patent for the vehicle in 1899. He then invented and patented a “wave motor” which Pearce wanted to use for a dubious method to extract gold from the ocean after it was affixed to the Oceanside pier.

A detailed and lengthy article from the Oceanside Blade explained, in part, how it was supposed to work: “Mr. Pearce is the inventor and patentee of a process for extracting gold from the waters of the ocean, which are said to contain, in solution, four cents of gold to every ton of water.  By the use of chemicals the gold is precipitated and caught in a deposit of charcoal in the bottom of a barrel or other receptacle. The cost of elevating the ocean brine into such receptacles has been the chief difficulty in the way of a successful solution of the question.  It is believed that the Schuyler wave motor will accomplish the desired result.

“From each barrel, filled and refilled the proper number of times, it is claimed by Mr. Pearce that $153 gold per year can be saved.  He also claims that every cubic mile of sea water contains $65,000,000 in gold.  It is understood that negotiations are under way whereby the two patents will be consolidated.  His patent is controlled by the Carbon Gold Precipitant Company of Colorado.”

While the extraction of gold was questionable, Schuyler’s invention may have been ahead of its time: “A test machine will be put in during the present summer. It is hoped it will prove a success, and that the almost unlimited power of the ocean breakers at our door will be turned to account.  If this can be done, electric lights, manufacturing, water galore for irrigation and every other purpose, a railroad up the valley, all will come as a result of the capital that will surely follow the demonstration.”

The city council granted permission to use the wharf for “scientific purposes”, and to “erect such machinery necessary for the purpose of extracting gold from the ocean, such machinery not to interfere with the travel on same.”

Giles Otis Pearce may have been one of the first to perpetuate this ruse and claim he could extract gold from the ocean but he wasn’t the last. In 1898 Prescott Ford Jernegan claimed to have invented what he termed a “Gold Accumulator” that could extract gold from seawater using a process with “specially treated mercury and electricity.” His hoax was exposed and he was sued by investors.

Schuyler’s wave motor seemed to be a legitimate apparatus but its use to extract gold brought expected skepticism. The editor of the Escondido Advocate newspaper challenged the veracity of the editor of the Oceanside Blade to publish such claims: “The article states that Giles Otis, a mining expert, who has patented a process for precipitating the gold in ocean water, was in that city last week consulting with John Schuyler, who has patented a wave motor, and these two will join issue and put in an immense plant at Oceanside. It is estimated that each ton of ocean water contains five cents in gold or $65,000,000 for every cubic mile. It is proposed by the parties interested to handle about a cubic mile of ocean water daily, and with the surplus water power which is as unlimited as the confines of the ocean, a system of electrical power will be put in along the San Luis Rey for pumping plants and the entire country is confidently expected by be submerged under twenty feet of water by the first of October.  They then will have electric lights and street railways for Oceanside with all kinds of manufacturing industries to follow.  Ed, we take off our hat and unanimously vote you the greatest prosperity liar of the age.”

Giles Otis Pearce was a litigious eccentric. He filed dozens, if not hundreds of lawsuits, including the estate of Theodore Roosevelt. If he lost a suit, he promptly filed an appeal.

Born in 1851 in Muscatine, Iowa, Pearce was well known for his wild claims, and considered a “crank” by locals. He changed, or rather, collected, occupations including printer, journalist, assayer, chemist, smelter, and lawyer. He served as a private in the Ohio Calvary from 1872 to 1873.

In 1885 Pearce ran for governor for the territory of New Mexico. After President Grover Cleveland appointed someone else to that position, Pearce sued the government. In 1886 he claimed to be under the influence of spirits, threatening the lives of family members. He was placed in an asylum in Endicott, Nebraska, but escaped. In 1890 he was “judged insane but harmless” and allowed to retain his freedom as long as he “behaved” himself.

After moving to Colorado, he disputed the recorded height of Pike’s Peak and said that he had determined the actual altitude, which upset and angered locals. He then claimed to have the capital and means of driving a 17 mile tunnel through the Rocky Mountains, at an expense of $25 million. He did not win over any support for his claims and the residents of Cripple Creek asked him to leave. After leaving Colorado, Pearce made his way to Yuma, Arizona, San Diego and then to Oceanside.

But before Schuyler’s wave motor and Pearce’s gold extraction device could be put to the test, the pier needed to be extended and that would take another year.  It was extended one hundred feet into the Pacific but it was far too short to provide “boating facilities.”

In June of 1898 work on the pier continued and the Blade provided this update: “Things are progressing nicely toward finishing the wharf.  The money will be available in a few days and next season will find us provided with good boating facilities. It is suggested that the work of superintending further extensions be placed in experienced hands so that our pier may be a thing of beauty instead of bearing a resemblance to a tortured snake.”

In October of that same year, Schuyler had placed his wave motor on the pier and demonstrated that it would in fact pump water “in sufficient quantities to warrant the putting in as an experiment of a Pearce filter for extracting gold from sea water.”

However, little to mention of gold extraction and/or Giles Otis Pearce was made after that time. The experiment was apparently abandoned.

Pearce left for Los Angeles where he married (for a second time) to a 21-year-old woman (he was 49) in June of 1900. Just months later during a contentious divorce he declared publicly that his wife was insane. He tied her up to keep her from leaving him and then made a complaint to law enforcement that his wife’s aunt was trying to have him killed and insisted that she be arrested.  Pearce died in 1924 at the age of 73 in the National Soldiers Home in Los Angeles. His hometown newspaper noted his passing and his “eventful life.”

From the San Francisco Call, February 18, 1906, page 39

On November 9, 1898, the board of city trustees met in adjourned session, where it was reported that the wave motor on the wharf was “straining that structure and Trustees Paden and Nicholas were appointed a committee to investigate and report on same.”

A year later the pier had still not been extended. In November of 1899 the Oceanside Blade published a plea to citizens to step up or see the second pier face the same demise as the first: “While the necessity is apparent of finishing our wharf in a substantial manner and extending it enough to make a good boat landing, the necessary lucre is not in sight as yet.  We should be glad to publish suggestions or communications from any of our citizens, on the subject.  Something should be done or we will wake up some fine morning after a storm and find the present wharf not present, so to speak.  In other words washed away…defunct.”

The Pacific Ocean continued its assault on Oceanside’s little iron wharf until a new pier was built in 1903.

View of Oceanside looking east from the South Pacific Hotel, circa 1890

The Legend of the Castle House on Mesa Drive

For decades the mystery of the castle on Mesa Drive has captivated a select number of Oceanside residents. There are several social media threads in which people inquire “do you remember the castle house?” There are no pictures and little information. Only the memories of children and teenagers who remembered that the castle was haunted or spooky. Rumors or perhaps truth, that an old man lived there, who would threaten them with a salt rock rifle. The house looked odd and eerie. It was made entirely of beach rock they said.

Yolanda Mitchell remembers as a little girl growing up in the 1960s that the house was two stories, made of stone. It both captivated and frightened young children. “None of us had the nerve to go in there. In fact, we thought if you went in there you might not come out. So, we never did,” Yolanda said. But the memory of the castle is so vivid, even to this day, every time she drives down Mesa Drive, she still looks for the “castle.”

But just who built this castle-shaped house? Who lived there and what became of it?

Noah Freeman purchased a portion of Tract 8 in the Ellery Addition in about 1929. The subdivision was established by Henry E. Ellery in 1925, which runs along Mesa Drive from Rose Place to the then city limits (which ended just about where Pajama Drive intersects Mesa).

1939 Map of Ellery Addition in 1939

Little is known about Noah Freeman, but he was born June 19,1880 in Boston, Massachusetts. In 1920 he was living in Michigan working as a machinist. It appears he was never married. At some point, year unknown, he made his way to California and purchased a vacant lot in Oceanside.

Freeman lived a solitary life on his property off Mesa Drive, which provided expansive views of the San Luis Rey Valley. He made his living as a farmer and doing odd jobs. But as inconspicuous as the life of Noah Freeman was, the small home which he built upon his triangular shaped plot of land would make the newspaper for curious reasons. And little did anyone know — would become the stuff local legends are made of.

On July 15, 1934, the San Diego Union published an extensive piece about Oceanside, detailing its establishment and then its amenities as a city. Included in this feature were images of different architectural styles, namely the Mission San Luis Rey, the Healing Temple of the Rosicrucian Fellowship, the Oceanside-Carlsbad Union High School, Oceanside Pier, AND, the home of Noah Freeman, “self-made architect.”

It included the only image of the house that at present can be found. Are there others out there? It is very likely, but they have yet to be shared.

Noah Freeman’s Castle, from the July 15, 1934 Sunday edition of the San Diego Union

The article read as follows: “On Mesa Drive, [at] the rim of the hills east of Oceanside, is a residence that’s unique. It has been built, piece by piece and over a five-year period, by Noah Freeman, its owner, and behind its size and form there’s a story.

“Freeman first built a cracker box stucco room as a base for tending his avocado trees. Then he picked up a wheel barrel load of field stone and stoned one wall of the stucco house. ‘I had some stones left over, so I started a stone garage,’ says Freeman.

“Every time I finish something I had stones leftover, and I started something else. Then I had to get more stones to finish it, and I got enough to start something else again. I followed no plan or idea, unless it was subconsciously, and if the various units harmonize, it is because of intuition, not design.”

The article goes on to describe what would be known in later years as the “castle”: “The spectacular feature of Freeman’s rambling rock establishment is a tower room above the garage, barely large enough to contain a single bed. It is reached by a ladder, set vertically in the rounded interior of the tower’s base, so that the climbing visitor fits into available space, almost as smoothly as a cylinder in a pneumatic tube.

“In a single room of this distinctive structure, Freeman lives and ignores economic conditions almost entirely. ‘I keep a goat,’ he explains pointing to a newly finished goat yard built of old bricks burned in Oceanside in the 1880s, ‘and the goat keeps me. Her milk, with a little fruit and some vegetables, is all I require. I do odd jobs for money when taxes come due, and my avocados will bear pretty soon.’

The article finishes by saying that “Freeman is one of the many who have adapted to their own tastes like the slogan ‘Oceanside, where life is worth living.’”

1937 aerial view of Mesa Drive, (C-4261-44) CSB Library Geospatial Collection


Freeman was mentioned again in the San Diego Union on November 7, 1934, when it noted that “Noah Freeman, Oceanside, self-made architect, who designed and built his “most uniquest” home east of town climbed El Morro, nine years ago.” It went on to describe the large hill and the steep pitch reported by Freeman, but just why this was newsworthy, is unknown, but it suggests that Freeman had come to San Diego County as early as 1925.  

Noah continued to occupy his property until 1938 when the Oceanside Blade Tribune announced on April 16 that “a ranch in the Ellery tract that was owned by Noah Freeman has been sold to Mr. and Mrs. George Babb of Kansas City.” The Babb’s did not occupy the property but may have leased it.

By 1940 Noah Freeman was living at the Self-Realization Fellowship in Los Angeles and working as a janitor there. The census record of that year has a notation that reads: “Wages in this institution are paid in board and room, plus small cash allowance.”

Two years later he was working and living at the Page Military Academy in Los Angeles. In 1950 he was living in a small house he owned on Quail Drive. Sadly by 1967 Freeman had been declared “incompetent” and his property sold. He died on May 29, 1968, and his passing was noted only by a small death notice published in the Los Angeles Times. No survivors or family members were mentioned.

Noah Freeman’s death announcement in the Los Angeles Times, May 28, 1968

While that marked the end of Noah Freeman’s life, the little castle on Mesa Drive lived on. In 1940 the stone house and the property it stood upon was sold to Karl Stebinger. If Noah Freeman was somewhat of an enigma, the same can be said about Stebinger.

Stebinger was born December 26, 1873, in Freiburg, Germany. He came to the United States in 1893 and became a naturalized citizen. In 1900 he was living in Riverside, California and making a living as a farmer. By 1917 he was in Kern County, California engaged in stock raising. Moving to his property in Oceanside he was listed as a “nurseryman” in public records.

Like Freeman, Stebinger never married and lived in solitude. He occupied his little “castle” but over the years apparently grew tired, then angry at curious passersby. Stories of Stebinger chasing off, or at least scaring, trespassers with a rifle were shared amongst neighbors.

One Facebook member posted her memories: “I grew up on South Barnwell Street from 1960-1972. There was an old man who lived in that castle in the early years who supposedly built it. I used to sell stationery and stuff for Camp Fire Girls and would be the only one who would go near it because the kids were afraid of it. The man was old, and not very friendly, maybe a little crazy. When I knocked on the door he just shouted, “NO SOLICITORS!”. My parents told me never to go to that house again. It was shaped like a castle, made entirely of beach rock and shells and mortar, and it stood out because it did not match any other houses in the whole neighborhood. Even back then it had very little if any landscaping, so it looked abandoned, but someone definitely lived there, did not have a car, and had a magnificent view of the valley from the rear.”

Karl Stebinger sold his property in 1964 to residents Dave and Barbara Jones, but he may have continued to live there until his death on November 10, 1968 (the same year as Noah Freeman died).

Now unoccupied, the “castle” could be explored by those brave enough to venture onto the property. One neighborhood resident remembered going to the castle with her friends in the early 1970s. She described it as “dirty” with “empty wine bottles around” likely left from other visitors.

Stories abounded and the legend of the castle grew. Tales spread like wildfire and rumors became truth solidified in ghost stories told at slumber parties. Many believed a witch lived there and surely it was haunted.

Frank Quan posted his memories which echoed the fear of many at just the sight of the castle: “I rode past there every morning delivering the Union. I’d pedal as fast as I could and try not look over there.”

Sean Griffin remembers that the castle looked right down at his house on Turnbull Street and can still picture its turret-like roof and the fear the castle evoked. “As a kid, I always thought it was huge, but I know it really wasn’t that big. Growing up on Turnbull Street in the 1960s, the rumors of how it was haunted scared most of the kids in the neighborhood. At night, I would always run home from my friend’s house because I was scared of the castle. The older kids would dare us to go up and touch the wall and we would run down the hill scared to death.”

By 1999 the land once owned by Noah Freeman was cleared, and the castle he built torn down. By 2000 four new homes were under construction and the property it sat on became part of suburbia. But the legend of the “castle” lives on in the memories (and perhaps nightmares) of a select number of locals who long for just one more glimpse of that rock house, to either satisfy their curiosity or make their heart pound with fear again.

Thank you to Sean Griffin, Janice Ulmer, Randy Carpenter and Yolanda Mitchell for sharing their memories.

Forced to Leave: The Story of the Fujita Family

Denkichi Fujita immigrated to the United States from Japan in 1900, his wife Fuji in 1910. Like many Japanese in the Oceanside area, Denkichi engaged in farming to support his family. In 1930 there were of 132 Japanese living in the Oceanside census district, including the Fujita family. In 1940 the census records indicate that number to be 349.

The Fujitas raised three children, all born in San Diego County, including Minoru Fujita, who was born on February 10, 1917. Minoru, along with his siblings Isamu “Sam” and Audrey, who has born in Carlsbad, attended Oceanside-Carlsbad Union High School.

1931 Oceanside-Carlsbad High School Baseball team. Isamu “Sam” Fujita is second from left, middle row.

Both Isamu and Minoru played sports, football, baseball and track. Minoru was notably involved in the high school student body. In 1941, Audrey Fujita was noted for “the fastest speed ever typed in competition in Southern California Commercial Meets” typing 79 words per minute.

Minoru Fujita with fellow classmates Jerome Green, Lula Ley. Class of 1934 Oceanside-Carlsbad Union High School.

All three Fujita children were mentioned prominently in the local paper for their participation in local clubs and activities. It seems they were included and accepted in the local community and given due recognition for their many achievements.

After the bombing of Pearl Harbor and during World War II, heightened anger and suspicion grew of Italian, German and Japanese immigrants. In February 1942, registration of “enemy aliens” began. The local paper reported that there was a “long queue of applicants” being registered of “non-citizen residents of Japanese, Italian and German parentage. Mrs. Ferrell Lauraine, assistant postmaster, and Harold Ulmer, of the post office clerical staff, are conducting the examinations and issuing the identification certificates which bear the photo, thumbprints and detailed data.”

The local paper reported on April 1, 1942 that “Arrangements to put one of the most successful of the Japanese ranches on the Santa Margarita Rancho into trust, for the duration, has been completed this week, according to Mr. M. Tachibana of the Aliso at Sycamore canyon, seven miles north of Oceanside.” Tachibana leased over 200 acres on the rancho which was being transformed into a military base.

Two weeks later the South Hill Market was offering free cabbage with the purchase of 50 cents of grocery or meat. The ad said, “This cabbage was obtained from an abandoned Japanese ranch. It is the finest cabbage you have ever had. Come in and get yours while it lasts.” Of course the ranch had not been willfully abandoned; its owners had been rounded up and sent away.

It was estimated in 1942 that Japanese grew and farmed 35 to 50 percent of the vegetables grown in California. The government scrambled to find farm workers to replace both the Japanese farmers who were being interred and men who had been drafted to fight in the war.

Locals had mixed feelings but largely supported the evacuation of the Japanese. While feelings of hostility were on the rise, some came to the defense of the local Japanese community and in a letter to the editor of the Oceanside Blade Tribune Bessie Lindsey Stewart wrote, “I do not feel however, that developing a hatred toward these worthy Japanese people who have won the affections of the residents of Oceanside and Carlsbad will remedy this situation in the least. They, like us, are caught in the torrent from a broken dam but can do nothing to stop the onrush of the water.”

The following month curfew for Japanese was enacted. Public Proclamation Number 3, issued by Lieut. Gen. J. L. DeWitt, U. S. Army, was received by Oceanside Judge W. L. Hart on March 27, 1942. The proclamation, became effective at 6 am and “established” the hours which “Japanese nationals and citizens alike may be on the streets.” The order went on to say, “at no time are they allowed on the streets between 8 pm and 6 am, and at all other times such persons shall be at their place of residence or employment or traveling between these places.” In addition, Japanese were prohibited from firearms, weapons, ammunition, bombs, explosives, short wave radios, transmitters, signal devices, codes or even cameras.

The next month J. Amamato, a 57-year-old native of Japan, was arrested for breaking the new curfew. He was staying at a boarding house (The Bunker House) but had ventured up to Hill Street (Coast Highway) where he was detained. Many felt that the boarding house should be immediately cleared of all Japanese inhabitants because of its proximity to the electrical utilities yard directly behind it. Citizens expressed fears of sabotage.

Boarding House aka Bunker House at 322 North Cleveland Street.

The “relocation” of Japanese immigrants, and Japanese Americans began in San Diego in late March and early April of 1942. The Oceanside Blade Tribune reported that “Three hundred Japanese are preparing to leave Oceanside by train Friday for the Parker reception center on the California-Arizona line, and 300 more will leave Sunday.  This will complete the evacuation of all Japanese from San Diego County. The Japanese all must go by train and are allowed to take only limited personal effects.  Their cars have been stored in San Diego for the duration.”

Isamu “Sam” Fujita was the executive secretary of the Japanese-American Citizens League and was noted for his “valuable assistance and cooperation in the Japanese evacuation.” During the registration process he and his sister Audrey served as interpreters to their fellow countrymen and women.

Isamu “Sam” Fujita

Included in this forced relocation was the Fujita family, who were sent to the Poston Interment Camp in Yuma County, Arizona. Sam Fujita was quoted as saying, “It is part of our duty as Americans to go. If our departure will improve public morale, it is our job to accept it in the spirit possible. This seems to be the best way we can be of service, and we are taking it in our stride.

Despite the fact that he and his family were incarcerated by the US government, Minoru Fujita enlisted in the Army on May 21, 1943. He was injured during combat by an artillery shell in 1944 and was discharged December 28, 1945. The internment camp where his family lived had closed just one month earlier.

It is unknown whether the family returned to the immediate area after they were released. Sam Fujita died in 2003, four months before his 90th birthday in La Mesa. Minoru Fujita died at the age of 92. Audrey Fujita Mizokami died at the age of 101 in Hawaii.

History of The Diamond House in South Oceanside and a Terrifying Day at the Wayside Inn

South Oceanside, a popular (and some would say “trendy”) neighborhood, was once a separate township of its own. Situated between the town sites of Oceanside and Carlsbad, it was established by John Chauncey Hayes, who was also heavily intertwined with the establishment of the City of Oceanside.

John Chauncey Hayes, founder of South Oceanside

Born in Los Angeles in 1852, he was the son of Judge Benjamin I. Hayes and Emily Chauncey. His father was the first judge of the district court to serve Los Angeles, San Diego and San Bernardino counties. The Hayes family moved to San Diego and the younger Hayes studied law in his father’s office until 1875, when he married Felipe Marron, daughter of Silvestre Marron.  The newlywed couple moved to San Luis Rey, where Hayes “engaged in locating government and state lands” along with farming and delivering mail. 

In the early 1880s Hayes bought 1200 acres of coastal land between Oceanside and Carlsbad. Even when he became the exclusive real estate agent for Andrew Jackson Myers, Oceanside’s founder, he also served as Justice of the Peace and postmaster. If that wasn’t enough for an enterprising, ambitious businessman, Hayes began to develop his new township of South Oceanside which included a depot, hotel, cemetery, a two-story brick schoolhouse and its own newspaper, The South Oceanside Diamond, of which he was the editor.

Map of South Oceanside, California State Railroad Museum

South Oceanside also had a brickyard just south of Kelly Street between Ditmar and Moreno Streets. The muddy clay from the nearby lagoon was used to fashion and fire bricks used to build buildings and no less than 10 homes. Hayes had a brick building erected to house his newspaper printing and real estate office.

Ad for South Oceanside in the South Oceanside Diamond Newspaper

In addition to these amenities, South Oceanside also offered a hotel for visitors. Located on the corner of Kelly and Tremont Streets (the exact location is unknown), Hannah Trotter operated The Diamond House. The name of Trotter’s establishment went along with the theme of South Oceanside, with its newspaper, the Diamond, and Hayes’ hyperbolic advertisement of “buying and wearing diamonds.”

Hannah Bell Trotter was born in 1836 in Pennsylvania. She married Thomas Trotter, a coal miner, in about 1866 and the couple had five children. After her husband’s death, Hannah and her children came to the new township of Oceanside as early as 1886. In 1887 Trotter acquired and filed her own addition to the town of Oceanside, a five acre tract in the northern part of town. It would be the first addition/subdivision in Oceanside established by a woman.

Hannah Trotter Addition, 1887

In March of 1888 it was first announced that the “foundations are being laid for Mrs. Trotter’s boarding house.  It will be a brick building, costing $3000.” (The foundation was brick, but the house was actually made of wood.) The house would be finished by May 1st and it was noted that Mrs. Trotter would “keep a first class place.”

Ad for the The Diamond Hotel in the South Oceanside Diamond Newspaper, 1889

The South Oceanside Diamond reported on May 18, 1888 that “The Diamond House, built and to be conducted as a hotel by Mrs. Hannah Trotter, is almost completed, and will be of great benefit to this community. The grounds surrounding the hotel will be highly ornamental, choice trees, flowers, grass, etc., having already been selected by the proprietress, who is adept in the art of floriculture.” The following month, the Diamond reported that “Hannah Trotter has opened her boarding, house and is ready to accommodate boarders.” Weekly advertisements were included in each edition stating that the Diamond House was “first class in every respect” and the “best table set on the coast.”

Hannah Trotter died in 1911 at the age of 76. Prior to her death the property upon which her boarding house was sold to Augusta Dickson Garden in about 1896 and the two-story home was featured in a grainy photo in the Oceanside Blade newspaper.

In 1913 Belle McWilliams bought what was then called the “South Oceanside Hotel” from Mrs. Garden. It was noted that Hannah Trotter had operated the hotel “in early days.” Belle McWilliams was said to have plans to make “considerable improvements to the property” which included an “amusement pavilion” and “facilities provided for catering to automobile parties.” It is likely that the building had been moved to front South Hill Street, or what was known as the Coast Route or Highway 101, as the hotel was referenced as “being on the auto route.”

Emma “Belle” Mitchell McWilliams was a native of Arkansas, born in 1863. She married Hugh Harris McWilliams in 1900 in Texas. Hugh McWilliams had a daughter, Murrie, from a previous marriage. The trio arrived in Oceanside from Texas in 1913.

On July 5th of that year, an opening celebration and dance was held at the former boarding house and hotel, renamed the “Ye Wayside Inn.” Admission to the dance was 75 cents but spectators were welcomed “free of charge.” It was announced that “parents can be sure that their daughters will be carefully chaperoned and no rowdyism permitted.” Perhaps there was concern by locals because Belle McWilliams had petitioned the county supervisors for a liquor license.

Belle operated her Wayside Inn with little incident but in 1915 a bizarre and tragic event unfolded there.

George Melvin Slobohm, superintendent of the state highway, overseeing road work on the Highway 101, had been staying at the Wayside Inn. Belle McWilliams would later state that the Slobohm “had been acting oddly for several days.”

On Sunday, August 8th, Slobohm, approached McWilliam’s 24-year-old daughter Murrie and asked to speak with her privately. While in the house, he proceeded to confess his love for her, but told Murrie that because he was already married he had decided to kill her and then himself, as a future together was not possible.

In spite of this terrifying news, Murrie McWilliams kept her wits about her, and convinced Slobohm that they should leave the house and walk down to the beach. As they walked out of the Inn, Slobohm was armed with a shotgun.

Murrie spotted her father and instinctively ran to him for help. The crazed man shot at her as she ran, but missed. Miraculously, just at that time Belle arrived at the property in a buggy, and witnessed the fearful scene. Father and daughter climbed into the buggy as Belle drove hard and fast to the home of Warren E. Spaulding, a dairy farmer, just to the east near Cassidy and Stewart Streets, to call for help on the telephone.

Warren E. Spaulding at his dairy ranch in South Oceanside

George Slobohm remained on the property and did not give chase. When local Constable DeBord, along with M. J. Maxey, George and Robert Borden responded to the emergency, they found Slobohm dead on the porch with a self-inflicted gunshot wound to the head.

But before he turned the gun on himself, Slobohm had set fire to the McWilliams’ house in several places, pouring gasoline on the floor in four of the rooms and setting it ablaze.  The officers managed to put out the fire and “save the house without much damage except in the laundry room which was pretty badly scorched.”

San Diego County Coroner Marsh came up that evening and a jury was summoned consisting of George A. Lane, Ben Higgins, John Osuna, D. A. Ellis, A. B. Curtis, and Josephine Jascen. They listened to the testimony of Murrie, Belle and Hugh McWilliams, viewed the scene and a verdict of suicide “was rendered accordingly.”

The Oceanside Blade stated that “Slobohm, who was about fifty years old, was a quiet man who bore a good reputation and was well liked by those who have had occasion to do business with him since he has been connected with the highway work here. He leaves a son, Henry, who has been living here, and two daughters and a widow in Los Angeles.” The next day George Slobohm’s wife and son came down from Los Angeles Monday and made arrangements for the removal of the body.

By the 1920s, Hugh and Belle McWilliams sold their Wayside Inn and moved closer to downtown Oceanside. Hugh McWilliams died in 1928 and Belle one year later.

1932 aerial of South Oceanside and Hill Street/Coast Highway (UCSB Library)

What became of the Wayside Inn, formerly the Diamond House and South Oceanside Hotel, is unknown. South Oceanside was annexed years prior and became part of the City of Oceanside. But it would stay a largely rural area for several years. Even as late as 1930 there were less than 10 homes or buildings fronting the coast highway. It wasn’t until the post war years when tracts of homes replaced the dairy cows, fields of crops and eventually the acres of flowers planted by the Frazee family.

History of the San Luis Rey Pioneer Cemetery

A small cemetery sits on a knoll in the San Luis Rey Valley. From its vantage point it provides panoramic views and a direct view of the Mission San Luis Rey and grounds.   It may go largely unnoticed by busy commuters driving past it while traveling on State Route 76 or Mission Avenue. Some of the earliest pioneer residents of the San Luis Rey Valley and Oceanside are buried there.

Decades before Oceanside was established, a small township was settled near the historic Mission San Luis Rey. The San Luis Rey Township was a vital, busy place with a post office, hotel, general store, and a newspaper called the “San Luis Rey Star. The township was also a stopping place for most travelers going to and from San Diego and Los Angeles before the railroad was built in 1881.

Simon Goldbaum’s store in San Luis Rey Township

Many families from various parts of the country (and even from abroad) came to settle in the area; families that included the Goldbaums, Lanphers, Libbys, Bordens, Hubberts, and Freemans.  They raised cattle, sheep and engaged in farming.

At that time there was only one cemetery in the area, that belonging to the Mission San Luis Rey, but it was in ruins. At some point in the late 1860’s land was designated for a cemetery, just south of the Mission. The first known interment in this burial ground was that of one-year-old Catherine Foss, who died in 1869. A few years later David and Rebecca Foss would lost another child, a boy who lived just three days.

Residents gather around the creamery building located in the San Luis Rey Valley.

Perhaps because of this initial burial of baby Catherine, and the imminent need of a proper cemetery, Isaac Kolb donated the land in 1875 to “reserve for public burying ground or cemetery where the same is now used for that purpose”.  The following year the cemetery was deeded to the San Luis Rey School District “to hold in trust for a public burying ground”.

Marker of Catherine Foss, along with her brother, father and mother. This headstone originally had an ornamental top which was likely stolen.

Among the arrivals to the valley were Andrew Jackson Myers and his wife Sophia, who settled there around 1875. In 1881, Maggie Myers, their infant daughter died and was buried at the cemetery.

In 1883 Myers received a land grant that would become the new town of Oceanside and Myers has his place in local history as the founder. But in 1886, tragedy struck the family again when another child died, his namesake, Andrew Jackson Myers, Jr.

The mortality rate for children in 1870 and 1880 was over 316 per thousand births, meaning over a third of children did not make it to their fifth birthday. Years later the Myers would lose two more older children to sickness, who also were laid to rest in the cemetery known simply as San Luis Rey.   

When Sophia Myers died in 1906, she was buried near her children. A year later, in 1907, Andrew Jackson Myers, died and was buried there as well. However, only two markers remained, that of little Maggie and Andrew, Jr.

The list of those buried in the modest country graveyard continued to grow, but was not chronicled. Life without modern medical care and antibiotics was a difficult one and even the most common ailments could turn deadly.

Susan Elizabeth Latimer Libby died at the age of 32 in 1900. She was the wife of Charles S. Libby and the mother of four children.  The newspaper reported that “A few weeks before her death she contracted a cold which resulted in pneumonia and a sudden turn for the worse caused her death.”

Death often comes suddenly and unexpectedly in tragic ways. In 1891 Dave Kitching was killed at the age of 22 in a farm accident.  The Diamond newspaper reported that the details, “The hay press guillotine had crushed his leg three days previous, and the shock was more than his constitution could stand. The young man had developed into a most promising worker and citizen, although his pathway was not strewn with flowers by any means. A dependent mother and several disconsolate sisters have lost their mainstay and support; San Luis Rey is deprived of its most exemplary young man.  Words cannot express the sorrow and grief of the community.  The Diamond sheds tears with the mourners who are legion and stand askance at the sad havoc cruel death has wrought of a sudden like a flash of lightening from a clear sky.” The paper further noted that the “untimely death of Dave Kitching has cast a gloom over the whole community” and that Ida Rooker, his fiancée was “prostated with grief.”

Marker of David Kitching, photo taken in 1989

In 1898 Antonio Subish, a resident of Bonsall, accidentally shot and killed himself. It was reported that he had placed his gun, “a short-barreled breech loader, against a log and as he picked it up by the muzzle and drew it toward him the weapon was discharged, the load entering the unfortunate man’s right breast causing death almost instantly.” Subish was 47 years of age, leaving behind a wife and several children. He was buried in the San Luis Rey Cemetery. 

Henry Lusardi, Jr. was buried in the hilltop cemetery, carried by his classmates after drowning in 1930. Henry drowned after swimming in what was described as a deep pool three miles below Lake Hodges dam. His lifeless body was submerged more than 24 hours while his family and friends waited frantically for crews to locate him. The Oceanside Blade reported that “efforts of officers to raise the body had been futile because Lusardi had taken off all of his clothes before stepping into the water, and grappling hooks failed to attach.” Finally, Lt. A. H. Brown, equipped in a diving suit, descended into the water and brought up the lifeless body. Thirty-three years later, his father Henry Lusardi, Sr. would be buried near his son.

Lucia Nares, who died in 1932 and Ramona Heredia, who died in 1934, were both buried in the San Luis Rey Cemetery after bouts will illnesses. The two young girls were buried next to each other as the families were very close.

Alford (Alfred) A. Freeman, the patriarch of the Freeman family who came to San Luis Rey from Texas in 1870, was buried there with his wife Permelia. Their graves are marked by two unusual handmade markers, fashioned by their son Almarine. Members of the Freeman family were buried in the southwest corner of the cemetery. At one time a row of wooden crosses (now since removed or eroded by weather and time) signified the burials of several individuals. Others have more traditional headstones and in recent years concrete crosses have been erected.   

While no official list was kept, it seems that most families were given a specific row or area in the cemetery. Walking the cemetery, one can see a distinct row for the Lanpher, Woodruff, Libby, Hubbert, and other families like the Abilez (aka Avilez) were buried in groupings.

One notorious burial was that of John W.  Murray, who gunned down Oceanside’s Marshal Charles C. Wilson in July of 1889. Wilson was in the process of arresting John W. Murray for disturbing the peace.  Murray who, with another man by the name of Chavez, had consumed more than his share of alcohol at a nearby saloon, was still wanting “to paint the town” after the saloons closed.  Marshal Wilson instructed Murray and Chavez to go home and behave themselves, according to newspaper accounts, but this only incited Murray. Wilson managed to arrest Murray’s cohort Chavez, and in the process, without warning, Murray rode up to Wilson and shot him in cold blood.  J. Keno Wilson, a constable, watched in horror as his brother collapsed.  He then fired after Murray, hitting his horse, but Murray escaped in the night. Charles Wilson died in his brother’s arms as Oceanside’s Dr. Stroud was called, but it was too late. 

Murray fled to his uncle’s house, that of Benjamin F. Hubbert, a rancher in the San Luis Rey Valley. Unaware of the murder, Hubbert obliged his nephew breakfast and Murray went on his way. A reward for Murray “dead or alive” of $1300 was posted and he later surrendered to John Griffin, who with others, took him by wagon to the court in San Diego.

The twenty-three old Murray went to trial for murder and was found guilty. His conviction was appealed but his sentence of hanging upheld. Murray fell ill while awaiting both his appeal and pending death sentence and died sometime in 1892. He is buried at the cemetery along with his Uncle Ben Hubbert and other family members.

Murray’s headstone, photo taken in 1989

In 1947 Maria Susan Salgado died and was laid to rest in the cemetery. Her obituary stated that she was born on the Rancho Guajome and that “she could recount that her father worked in the San Luis Rey mission in the early days, and she could also recount many of the interesting early days of California, which was built around the old California ranchos.”

Marker of Maria Salgado, great granddaughter of Tomasa Huisch

Salgado was a direct descendant of Tomasa Huisch, a Native American woman born as early as 1796. Tomasa was the mother of Josephine Silvas, the grandmother of Gertrude Salgado and the great grandmother of Maria Salgado.

As one of four Luiseno Indian women who lived near the Mission San Luis Rey, Tomasa told visitors stories of how as children they helped to build the Mission. The Oceanside Blade featured three of the women in a story in 1895 and said of Tomasa, [She] “is known to be more than a hundred years old and is put by some above 130.  She claims that she packed “dobes” when the mission was built, and, as its construction was begun the first decade of the present century, there is little ground for doubting that she is, at least, in her second century teens.  She was the mother of a large progeny, some of whom lived to be very old, she surviving them all.

Photo of three of the Luiseno Women, Rosaria, Tomasa and Vaselia circa 1892

Tomasa Huisch died on June 8, 1899, and was buried on June 10th in the Mission San Luis Rey Cemetery, her burial recorded on page 9, paragraph 38 in the cemetery records. The Oceanside Blade reported her death: “Tomasa the ancient Indian woman, one of the landmarks of San Luis Rey died Thursday night.  She was said to be over one hundred years of age and as a little girl helped at the completion of the old Mission.” 

There are several other Native Americans buried at this historic cemetery including Nick L. Beyota, Andrea O’Campo and Lee Duro.

It is not known if an actual burial map or even a burial list of the cemetery ever existed, but it seems unlikely, and none has ever been found. The San Luis Rey School District, although the legal owners of the cemetery, seem to have kept no official record of any kind. The San Luis Rey Township and surrounding ranches formed a tight-knit community, and the valley residents knew where their loved ones were placed (with or without a permanent marker) rested and must have assumed that someone would always know and remember. They likely never planned for what lay in store for the cemetery in later years, which came to be called the San Luis Rey Pioneer Cemetery. 

View of the Mission San Luis Rey in about 1908. This rare image provides the only historic view of the Pioneer Cemetery.
Cropped view of previous image highlighting the cemetery. The two “white” headstones right of the center are that of Stephen Lanpher and the Foss family.

San Luis Rey School Trustee and valley resident Shirley Anson Woodruff was responsible for pointing out available burial sites to families looking to bury their dead. For years he was the cemetery’s only “caretaker” but apparently kept no record of burials or placements of graves. He filed the yearly tax exemptions for the cemetery with the county.

Shirley Anson Woodruff

Over the years attempts were made to document persons buried there and one list contained an estimated 84 burials. There were at least two partial lists done between 1960 and 1980, decades after most of the earliest burials. The persons collecting the information likely counted and chronicled existing headstones. A realistic number based on death certificates and obituaries place that number above 120. 

When the Oceanside school district took over the San Luis Rey School District, it unknowingly acquired the cemetery as its trustee. Shirley Woodruff continued to file the annual tax forms for the cemetery until his death in 1989.  He was buried in a plot reserved for him several decades ago, alongside family members.

As the population grew and construction increased in the valley, the San Luis Rey Cemetery seemed all but forgotten except for the descendants of those early citizens. By 1989 the entrance, which was originally located off the south side of Mission Avenue, was changed to Rancho Del Oro a newer road between Mission Avenue and the Expressway. The cemetery had long been enclosed by a simple barbed wire fence, which was replaced by a chain link one. Grass and vegetation grew around the cemetery making it nearly invisible. Vandals frequented the cemetery, leaving beer cans and litter strewn about. Weathered wooden crosses were taken out of the ground and tossed and headstones were pushed off their bases. By the late 1980s the cemetery was overgrown, grass was nearly waist high.

Volunteers at 1991 cleanup

The Oceanside Historical Society, which was organized in 1985, began researching and documenting the cemetery in 1989. In 1991 the Society formed a cleanup, calling on their members, descendants of the pioneers, and interested residents to help. A group of Marines from Camp Pendleton volunteered and after much effort many bags of trash were removed, including a mattress, along with an entire dumpster of brush and weeds. Several headstones which could be lifted by simple “manpower” were placed back on their bases.

Photo of Leovi Cerda’s original headstone. Photo was provided by Cerda family and taken in about 1968.

Shortly after, it was discovered that headstones had been stolen. The markers of Leovi Cerda, Benjamin Neff, as well a “double” headstone for William E. and Catherine Libby.  A handmade marker for Frank Meza was destroyed. In addition, an attempt had been made to dig into three gravesites but did not get far due to the fact that the ground is hard clay.  

Handmade marker of Frank Meza, who died in 1937. Photo taken in 1989 before it was destroyed by vandals.

Also stolen was one of the oldest and most unique headstones, that of Steven D. Lanpher, who died in 1891. His granddaughter Betty Lanpher Kopcso filed a police report in January of 1996 after she had visited the cemetery and discovered his headstone was no longer there.

Unusual “tree stump” headstone of S. D. Lanpher, photo taken in 1989 before it was stolen and damaged.

This unusual theft was reported in the newspaper and one month later the Oceanside Historical Society was contacted by the Oceanside Police Department on December 2, 1996 informing us that the headstone had been dropped off at their station. An unidentified woman in Fallbrook had read about the missing Lanpher headstone and realized that it was the very one she had sitting in her front yard. She had the heavy granite stone loaded into a van, drove to the Police Station and told an officer that she wanted to turn it in.  She did not want to give any details, only that she had purchased the headstone for $100.  It took five police officers to remove the 400-pound marker from her van and place the headstone into “evidence”.

The headstone was then returned to its rightful place and although somewhat damaged, stands once again at the grave site of Steven Lanpher. The other headstones still remain missing, prompting the family of Leovi Cerda who died in 1934, to replace her headstone with a similar one.

In 1997 the unsightly chain link fence was removed and replaced with a barbed wire fence supported by wooden posts, which was more in keeping with the cemetery’s authenticity. Rancher Dave Jones donated a strand of barbed wire that had been saved from the original fence.

Near southwest corner of the cemetery in 1989, chain link fence in view. These wooden crosses were removed by vandals.

With a grant from the San Diego County Board of Supervisors, a sizeable donation from the Oceanside-Pacific Kiwanis Club, and generous donations from members and descendants, an archway and gate were erected providing a sense of dignity and history to the cemetery.

The Oceanside Historical Society placed a memorial headstone for both Sophia and Andrew Jackson Myers, founders of Oceanside, near where their two small children were buried, Maggie and Andrew, Jr.

On December 20, 2006 Oceanside Police Officer Daniel Bessant was killed while responding to a routine traffic stop. His family requested that a memorial marker be erected in his memory near the southeast corner of the cemetery so that his fellow officers would see it while driving on the 76 Expressway.  

Permission was given to erect this memoriam marker for fallen OPD officer Daniel Bessant

On April 27, 2013 a group of more than 100 people from the Carlsbad California Church Stake of the Church of Jesus Christ pf Latter Day Saints spent hours to clean headstones, trim, mow and upright fallen markers. The group also provided historical genealogies of many of the people buried there.

Volunteer cleaning headstone in 2013.

There are many who visit the cemetery and at times are alarmed at its appearance. In the summer there is little or no vegetation. During the rainy season the grass grows tall. It is important to note and remember that this cycle is the same as it has always been for over 150 years. It is not suitable to change this cemetery into a memorial park with a green lawn and landscaped shrubbery.

Looking northeast toward Ivey Ranch circa 1991

Currently the cemetery is being maintained by two dedicated volunteers who keep it mowed (after the rainy season), pick up trash and place flags on graves of veterans, most of which are from the Civil War and World War I.

In 2021 the Oceanside Unified School District transferred “ownership” to the Oceanside Historical Society as official trustees of the cemetery.

We encourage descendants and concerned citizens to donate to the Oceanside Society Historical, helping us maintain this precious historical cemetery and preserve the history of the people buried there.

Donate at https://oceansidehistoricalsociety.org/product/donations/

Killer Sally – A closer look at the true story

The story of Sally McNeil and the murder of her husband Ray McNeil (sometimes spelled McNeill) has generated a lot of buzz. “Killer Sally” was in the top 10 of Netflix shows, both globally and in the US.

While watching and then re-watching the three part series, something didn’t sit well with me. There’s always more to the story and I always want to know more. I want to share a different perspective about the murder of Ray.

Ray and Sally McNeil (Netflix)

Sally repeatedly claimed in the series that her body building husband was an abuser and that she was a battered wife – and was left with no choice but to shoot her husband in self defense.

However, Sally’s testimony to the Parole Board in 2019 and 2020 refutes her own statements in the Netflix series. It offers a completely different version of events that led up to the shooting of her unarmed husband.

I’ve also obtained court documents from the trial, which included written statements and police reports that documented Sally’s long list of violence against teenagers, her husbands, neighbors, women and police officers.

Ira Kelly (USMC, Ret.) Sally’s Staff Sgt. in 1986-87

Both Ray and Sally were in the Marine Corps stationed at Marine Corps Base Camp Pendleton. When Sally started bodybuilding she said her Staff Sergeant Ira Kelly, told her “You know, the bodybuilding contest isn’t just a bikini contest.” She ended up placing 4th in the Armed Forces Bodybuilding Championship in 1987.

Ray and Sally lived in a home on South Freeman Street, in Oceanside, California, after they were married. They would eventually move to an apartment at 1802 South Tremont Street in South Oceanside. The couple both belonged to Gold’s Gym, which was located on South Hill Street (Coast Highway) and both pursued bodybuilding. Sally also wrestled various “clients” across the country, many of which were filmed.

1802 South Tremont Street, Oceanside, California. Google view 2009

Sally presented herself as an abused and battered wife. And I believe she was. But Sally also abused and battered. The list of violence perpetrated by Sally includes:

  • Hitting her first husband, John Anthony Lowden, in the head with a lead pipe, requiring 8 stitches.
  • Assaulting numerous officers in two different police departments.
  • The assault of two teenage female babysitters and two unrelated adults.
  • Dropping weights on Ray’s car, while he was in it.
  • Arrested for willful cruelty to a child in 1990.

Despite her history of violence, she has garnered the sympathy of many and headlines echo Sally’s claims of self defense. The Guardian is one example with a headline that reads: “This is still happening today: the story of an abused wife accused of murder.” The byline opens by saying “A sensitive new docuseries considers the case of Sally McNeil, a woman who killed her violent husband in self-defense.”

In the Netflix series Sally recounts the terrifying moments leading up to the shooting of Ray while her two children were home.

Ray Fitzgerald McNeill, Dunn High School, Dunn, North Carolina, 1983

“First, he hit me. ‘Cause I told him, I said, “Well, you look like sh–.” “You’re not gonna place at all.” “You’re not striated in the contest.”

“So then he hit me. And then he started choking me. I got scared, and I thought, “He’s gonna kill me, and I’m not gonna make it through this night.” I scrambled away. I ran to the bedroom and retrieved the weapon. I grabbed two, um… two rоսnds, and, um, walked out to the living room, and loaded the weapon as I was walking out to the living room. I didn’t know what he was capable of doing. He had five different steroids in him. He was superhuman. He was super strong and he was super fast in a small apartment.

“So I tell him to get out, and he says, “No,” so I shot him.. He’s on the ground, so I go out and I grab the blanket, and I came in and brought it and covered him, to prevent shock.”

Transcript of 911 Call

Sally called 911 and said: “I just shot my husband because he just bеɑt me up.” She would repeat this at least two more times to the operator.

Operator: You shot your husband?

Sally: Yes. I’m at 1802 South Tremont Street.

Operator: Who’s crying?

Sally: My daughter.

Operator: Okay, is he dead?

Sally: He’s shot.

Operator: Okay. What’s your name?

Sally: My name is Sally McNeil. Don’t touch the door, Shantina!

Operator: How old is he?

Sally: He might bеɑt me up!

Operator: Ma’am! I just got bеɑt up.

Sally’s daughter describes how she heard her mother choking before Ray was shot. Sally told police the scratches on her neck were from Ray choking her.

Parole Hearing

But at her parole hearing she revealed the real origin of those marks:

PRESIDING COMMISSIONER THORNTON: I was looking back over my notes and I wanted to ask you, this is kind of jumping back a bit, but back at the life crime, you did have some marks on your neck? And I wanted to ask you where those marks came from? Did you hear my question?

INMATE MCNEIL: No. Ma’am. Can you repeat it.

PRESIDING COMMISSIONER THORNTON: At the time of the life crime the record it’s showed something about you having marks on your neck. So, where did those marks come from?

INMATE MCNEIL: I was wrestling the day before. I had a client and it probably came from there. There were scratches on the back of my neck too. They noticed them, I let them believe what they wanted to believe.

PRESIDING COMMISSIONER THORNTON: So, you said the marks were on your neck from wrestling the day before?

INMATE MCNEIL: Yes, ma’am.

PRESIDING COMMISSIONER THORNTON: And you said you let them believe what they want to believe. Who is them? And they?

INMATE MCNEIL: The police noticed, they noted that I had marks on my neck.

PRESIDING COMMISSIONER THORNTON: Okay. Did you say anything to the police about where you got those marks?

INMATE MCNEIL: I said he was choking me and that’s probably how it happened. And I probably scratched myself when I tried to stop him from choking me. That’s what I told them.

PRESIDING COMMISSIONER THORNTON: So, you told the police, the victim was choking you and that you had scratched your neck?

INMATE MCNEIL: Yes, ma’am.

PRESIDING COMMISSIONER THORNTON: Was that true?

INMATE MCNEIL: No.

In another portion of the hearing Sally McNeil concedes that she shot her husband in anger, not self defense.

INMATE MCNEIL: I admit what the DA said, I don’t have any arguments with him. I accept responsibility.

PRESIDING COMMISSIONER THORNTON: Today, do you say that the victim abused you at all?

INMATE MCNEIL: No. The victim did not — the victim did not abuse me that day.

PRESIDING COMMISSIONER THORNTON: And was there any element of self-defense that day?

INMATE MCNEIL: No, ma’am.

This testimony to the Parole Board belies the story Sally now tells on the popular Netflix series.

Prior Marriage

Sally Marie Dempsey was born September 30, 1960 in Allentown Pennsylvania. After a brief time in college, she joined the Marine Corps in 1981. She was stationed at Quantico, Virginia, working as a food specialist. She met a fellow Marine, John Anthony Lowden, and they married on September 3, 1982. Their first child, Shantina, was born 8 months later. Another child, John, followed in 1985.

The couple moved to California, presumably a duty transfer to Camp Pendleton. The marriage lasted less than four years. During the marriage Sally gave birth to a third child in 1986, but the baby was not fathered by John Lowden. The home was so tumultuous that the children were in the custody of Juvenile Court when the infant was just 4 months old. The baby was given up for adoption and never mentioned in the Netflix series, although the adoptive mother was featured as a supporter of Sally’s.

Sally filed for divorce in January of 1987 and married Ray Fitzgerald McNeil that same year.

John Lowden stayed in the area and fought for custody of the children. It was a contentious situation between John and Sally, as well as Ray and Sally.

Child Neglect

In statement given to police, neighbors who lived in the same apartment building recalled their experience. “We started hearing physical fighting between Ray and Sally during late December 18, 1989. The second or third time that we knew of something such as the fighting going on, my wife was so afraid that we had to leave the house. Our other neighbor, former apartment assistant manager, had already called the police.

My main concern during this period was the welfare of the kids. They were never dressed properly for the weather and always appeared dirty, primarily because of dirty clothing. Shortly thereafter, my wife started driving Shantina to the bus stop. She was never dressed for the weather, and could easily catch colds or worse.

During the afternoons, Shantina would usually be alone and unsupervised. Her brother would be supervised by a babysitter. Shantina complained and cried a lot about her mother not being home. Sally and Ray worked out daily bodybuilding and kept late hours.

On one instance, we had a power outage and Shantina asked if she could come into my house, because it was dark, and she was all by herself. She said she and her brother were left alone quite often.

The police came to their apartment on more than one occasion primarily for the purpose of spouse abuse. Sally gives the impression of hostility and I believe that’s because of the environment that she has created for her family.

During late June, Ray had not been at home for a while, maybe a week or two. Ray came home early one afternoon for the purpose of moving out. I did not witness the upcoming events but a police report was filed. Sally attacked Ray as he tried to move out. She ran out of the apartment and jumped on a guy’s truck that Ray was in. The guy was helping him move. Sally ran back up to the second floor apartment and threw an entire weight set over the balcony. She displayed no regard to safety of any individuals below her. Thank God no one was hurt. It was early afternoon and the only car that was hit by the flying weights was her husband’s.

Sally was handed an eviction notice that day. The police and the social services department came by a couple of times after that last incident. The kids were placed in a home while Sally moved out on her own.

A Call for Help

The Oceanside Police Department filed a Juvenile Contact Report on dated July 30, 1990 which is similar to the neighbor’s statement. In the report the office notes that a “child calling on 911, left home by Mother.” OPD arrived at the apartment of Sally McNeil at 3871 San Ramon in Oceanside.

Officer D. Cox wrote his “observations and actions” in the following narrative:

Officer Young and I went to the door where we contacted Shantina Lowden, 7, and John Lowdon, 5. Their mother, Sally McNeil had just returned home. I noticed the apartment was dirty, unkempt with clothing and trash thrown all over in every room. There was no fresh food in the kitchen. I noticed that cookies and ice cream were out on the table and appeared to be the only food available.

I explained to McNeil that we were there to investigate why her kids were left alone. She immediately became a defensive, grabbing both kids and attempting to take them down the hallway. I tried to explain to her that we were mandated by law to investigate any allegations of child abuse, or neglect. She begins screaming that we needed a search warrant. I asked her several times to calm down, that I wanted to talk with the kids alone. She screamed that I was not going to talk to them, then told the kids not to talk with me.

I asked Shantina if she had been left alone tonight. She nodded her head yes, while looking at her mother. McNeil screamed at Shantina, “What are you saying again?”

I explained to McNeil that we needed to talk to the kids. She refused by grabbing the kids and walking toward the bathroom. I told McNeil that if she didn’t allow me to talk with the kids, I would arrest her. She still continued toward the bathroom with the kids.

I told McNeil that she was under arrest as she was delaying me in the performance of my duties. I attempted to handcuff her right arm. She began to violently resist or attempts to handcuff her. McNeil is a bodybuilder and is very strong. She violently turned towards me as officer Young attempted a carotid restraint hold on her neck. He could not apply the hold, and she violently bent over, attempting to throw Young over her shoulder. I could not overcome McNeil’s strength with wrist holds/twists. I applied chemical mace to McNeil‘s face which caused her to lose her balance. All three of us went to the floor. I was able to cuff one wrist as the mace took affect.

McNeil was able to turn over with both Young and I on top of her. I applied mace again to McNeil’s face. She quit fighting and I was able to handcuff both wrists. McNeil was taken to OPD for booking. She was cited released to PMO.”

OPD included the Victim Statement: Shantina Lowdon told me that her mother frequently leaves her and her brother home alone. Tonight her mother left them both alone for about an hour. She said she phoned 911 because she was afraid to be alone. She also said she and her brother were placed in a foster home about a year ago when they lived on Camp Pendleton.

Sally McNeil’s statement: McNeil denied leaving her kids alone tonight. She said she was just out in the parking lot changing the tire on her truck. She denies leaving the kids alone frequently.

The report concluded: Shantina and John were taken into protective, custody and placed into Hillcrest Home.

Injuries: Officer Young sustained injury to his left wrist during the altercation. (Not treated.)

Apartments on San Ramon Drive where Sally and children were living in July 1990

OPD Responds Again

Just weeks later, at a new address, Oceanside Police were called by Sally’s ex-husband John
A. Lowden to 1802 South Tremont Street. On August 12, 1990 the responding officer wrote his observations in a report:

Upon arrival I met the victim, John Lowden and took his statements. The rear window and two side windows of his Honda Accord were smashed in. It appeared as if a heavy object was used to smash them as the window frame above the right rear window was dented in.

I also met the suspect, Sally McNeil, and took her statements. Lowden and McNeil are divorced, but have two children who reside with McNeil at 1802 S. Tremont Street, apartment No. 5.

After obtaining statements, Lowden signed a citizen arrest form against McNeil. I advised McNeil she was under arrest, but did not take her into custody. I issued her a citation number for 316914PC594 and PC242. Officer Schultz responded and took photos of the damage to Lowden’s car.

Victim statement: Lowden essentially stated the following: At about 13:45 hrs. he arrived at McNeil‘s to visit his children. He and McNeil started arguing about the children’s welfare. Lowden went down to his car to leave. McNeil followed him. As he got in his car, McNeil hit him in the face with her closed fist. She then grabbed his necklace and ripped it from his neck. Lowden hit her back in defense and pushed her back. McNeil went to her truck and retrieved a long metal bar. She started smashing in Lowden‘s car windows. Lowden told her that he would call the police. McNeil retrieved a small handgun from her truck. Lowden saw the gun and ran away to call the police. Lowden stated that McNeil has a history of being violent and he desires prosecution for battery and vandalism.

Both parties were issued mutual restraining orders but Sally was required to be drug tested with results being sent to Family Court Services.

Roommate Witnesses Sally’s Jealous Rage

Court documents in Sally’s murder trial included the testimony of Lloyd Jenkins, who met Ray McNeil in 1986 while in the Marine Corps and met Sally one year later. The narrative from the Statement of Facts is as follows:

Mr. Jenkins had lived with the couple at various times during their relationship. Mr. Jenkins has personally witnessed over 25 episodes of violence committed by the defendant against the victim. The witness has seen the defendant punch the victim numerous times, destroy property, and throw tantrums like a spoiled child. He describes the defendant as hostile jealous, and her moods cyclical.

In 1988 while the couple lived on base at Camp Pendleton, the defendant, in a jealous rage, threw a video camera, VCR and CD player out a second story window at the victim as he attempted to leave their apartment.

In 1990, Mr. Jenkins and the victim were leaving the couple’s apartment to go to a bar. As the victim told the defendant, the defendant started yelling and screaming at the victim. The defendant grabbed the victim around the legs and yelled at him to stay. The defendant yelled at Mr. Jenkins to make the victim stay.

The defendant then went into the kitchen and swept all the dishes from the counter onto the floor. The victim went to see what it happened, and the defendant slapped him in the face. The victim slapped her back. Both the victim and Mr. Jenkins ran out of the apartment and got into the witness’s car. The defendant ran to Mr. Jenkins’ car and dove through the open driver side window into the car. The defendant was screaming, ‘Please don’t leave, make him stop.’ The victim exited the car and ran up the stairs. The defendant followed. The victim ran back to the car, where he was able to leave with the witness.

The next morning, the defendant accused the victim of ‘screwing’ some girls. The defendant became violent and aggressive. The victim [Ray] and Mr. Jenkins went downstairs where the victim got into his car and attempted to leave. The defendant threw a 70 pound barbell from the second floor onto the victim’s car, nearly striking the victim. The victim was in the driver seat. The defendant then threw two 20 pound dumbbells onto the victim’s car. The Oceanside Police Department responded. Mr. Jenkins heard the defendant tell the police that the victim had hit her.

Between 1990 and 1993, Mr. Jenkins saw the defendant hit the victim under the eye with a picture frame, lacerating the skin. Mr. Jenkins states the victim punched the defendant in the nose causing injury.

Mr. Jenkins states during one incident in 1992, the defendant, angry because the victim was leaving to go to the gym, threw a TV set out of a window. The witness asked the defendant why she was doing that. The defendant replied the victim, had ‘screwed’ some girl. Mr. Jenkins asked how she knew, to which the defendant stated she just knows.

In late December 1994 or early 1995, the defendant stopped at Mr. Jenkin’s house in Orange County to call home. After the call, the defendant [Sally] slammed down the phone. The defendant yelled at Mr. Jenkins, ‘I’m gonna make sure he doesn’t see her tonight.’ As she left, she knocked down Mr. Jenkin’s chairs.

In late December 1994, Mr. Jenkins went to the victim’s home to take him to the gym. When [he] arrived at the couple’s apartment, defendant was in a rage. The defendant yelled at the victim and threw a glass at him. Defendant yelled at the victim not to go. The defendant jumped on the victim’s back and scratched his chest.

Wrestling Men

Sally could clearly hold her own with men, demonstrated by taking on police officers (more than once) and her two husbands. As featured in the Netflix series, Sally also wrestled men for money. One of her clients wrote a letter to the judge in support of Sally after her trial. He described Sally as easygoing and sweet and the experience of wrestling women as a sensual experience. While her clients supported her, Sally said the experience of wrestling them “disgusted” her.

September 26, 1996

To Honorable Laura Hamms, Superior Court, San Diego County

Your Honor,

I am a friend and wrestler wrestling client of Sally McNeil and I understand she is appealing her case, I would like to share some thoughts with you about Sally and her work. These dual relationships of friend and client did not begin until last year, while Sally was awaiting trial. I cannot speak about her from personal experience before the death of her husband. But I have known her since that time, and I think her my observations may be important to her case.

I met Sally last year when she came here to wrestle. She was in dire need of money. I remember thinking about, as I drove to the airport to pick her up, all I heard about her domestic life. In all honesty I was not sure what to expect. Because prior commitments prevented me from picking her up upon time, I had told her she would have to wait three hours at the airport. So I figured she would be in a nasty mood. I was not enthusiastic about meeting her.

I was surprised. The smallest woman, with the radiant face, sitting patiently on her luggage at the curb, and not the slightest complaint about the long wait. She appeared to me, in fact, to be one of the shyest, most undemanding innocent people I’ve ever met in bodybuilding, or anywhere else for that matter. And that impression was reinforced during the several days she was stayed with me by a disposition that was agreeable, easy-going, good humored, and downright sweet. Frankly, I was amazed!

Granted, I was providing an atmosphere for her that was stress-free more, vacation than work. And it is probable that given all that had happened, she was feeling chastened. And, I would have also expected that she would have been frightened at the prospect of going to prison. But at no time in her stay, or my conversation with her, did she ever express much concern for herself. She did, however, speak at length about her children. She seems to love them very deeply, and she worries about the effects of her absence on them. Most of the volume of very touching poetry that Sally has written is for her children. Whatever else you may find her, she is certainly a doting mother.

Then there is a matter of Sally’s wrestling. I hear a great deal about the activity being used to support the idea that she is a violent person outside her home life as well. One of the bodybuilding magazines did a short story recently on Sally and showed brochure marketing her with names like ‘Killer.’ Anyone who has watched professional wrestling on TV shows know that names like ‘Killer,’ ‘Strangler,’ ‘Destroyer,’ etc. are part of the trade. I understand some of the people who wrestle under those names are some of the most gentle people around. The names do not necessarily have anything to do with their nature.

But, perhaps it is the idea of a woman wrestling men for money that is least understood. As one of those men, I have some insights into what it is all about. And, I think the insights are important and understanding what Sally is, and is not about.

First, let me tell you why most of us wrestle women. Am I qualified to do so? I have had perhaps two dozen women stay with me through the years to wrestle me and other men in the area. I’ve come to count a few of these women among my close friends. I am also in regular contact with many of the video makers, who work professionally with the women. One of these videographers, a very bright articulate, and insightful man has been involved in the activity, since it began, and may have had more to do with its inception than anyone else. I have had extensive conversations with most of these people, including the clients about their own involvement. Their observations concerned my own.

In a word, we wrestle these women because most of them are very attractive. That is, we find their combination of physical beauty, athleticism and strength extremely compelling. There are many who would not agree with us. There are many more who I think would agree if they dared buck prevailing public sentiment. In truth, our tastes are no less, and no more valid than anyone else’s. Be that as it may, we truly appreciate these women, and know that, because most of us are not great looking athletes, the only contact we may ever have with them is through wrestling. It is a way to experience them.

So,’ you might well ask. ‘isn’t that a sex substitute?’ Absolutely. And a safe, legal, and healthy one at that. And we could probably think of several others in our society that are perfectly acceptable in most quarters. Do these women, then offer sex with wrestling used as a cover? Except in rare cases, no! There are always exceptions. But the women I have work with, and most of the others that I know of established very clear boundaries with their clients in terms of the physical contact that is to take place. And that physical contact is wrestling. Is there fantasy involved? Yes. Can it be sensual? Yes. Is there full body contact? Sure. And the prevailing atmosphere at many of these matches is of pure fun, laughter and mutual appreciation.

Yes, I said ‘mutual.’ These women have put on a staggering amount of time and discipline into their sport, in large part because they like the attention and admiration it can bring them. Wrestling achieves that in a very personal and satisfying way. It does so because, again, for most men the goal is not to win or lose necessarily but to experience and appreciate a person and a physique that are truly extraordinary. When the match is over, the woman often leaves with her need to be recognized, and appreciated met as well. And, this all happens in a way that is entirely within the law.

I know that this is very hard to accept for most of the American public. I would say an answer to that in a society where there are precious few acceptable ways to touch one another physically or emotionally (and given the establish view of the psychological community that touching is an important human need), this form of wrestling and is an innocent, playful and very healthy way to meet the legitimate needs of both men and women who enjoy it. There are enormous pressures acting on most of us. I wish more people would find their own way to releasing them. And, I hope these those ways are as healthy, satisfying and downright fun as the one we have found.

So, am I making Sally into a virtuous practitioner of some noble art? Heck no. She wrestled, I think, because it was fun, satisfying, and earned her badly needed money. And that is the point. Those who say she wrestled because she is vicious and violent tell me they know little of the sport, it’s practices it’s intent or its outcomes. Truth is, anyone who is violent is going to be very frustrated with the sport; it’s much too much fun. And, they will be weeded out very quickly; we all talk to each other. If Sally were taking out whatever violent tendencies she might have on her clients, she would’ve been gone from the scene long ago. Instead, she’s been around for years and has been one of the most respected, and sought after of any of the women.

Your Honor, it all comes down to this. I cannot tell you everything about Sally McNeil; I don’t know it all. If she is violent, maybe that violence died with the man who was beating her. Maybe not. She has certainly told me of her determination to get whatever therapy it takes to help her make better decisions about men. But, I cannot speak to any of this. What I can speak to you from my own experience with her, and that others, who I know, is very simple. She IS capable of controlling herself. She did it every time she wrestled us. If she had not, there would be a lot of a walking wounded out here and she would have been shunned by us years ago.

I look forward to a society that takes appropriate action with those who break its law. There are those that, at this point in our understanding of them anyway, are beyond our power to heal or alter them. They need to be away from those who would hurt. There are others who need and will respond to our benevolence, rather than our punishments. Punishment may leave us satisfied, but will make them worse instead of better. I believe Sally McNeil is one of those people. And I vote for better over worse any day.

Thank you for your attention your honor.

Sincerely,

[Name omitted for privacy]

The Murder of John Lowden, Jr.

Sadly, Sally’s son John Lowden, Jr. was murdered February 28, 2024 in Augusta, GA. He was 38 years old.  Lowden was a special forces weapons sergeant in the Army and did six tours in Afghanistan. Robert Ward was arrested in Lowden’s death. He was charged with murder and possession of a firearm during the commission of a crime.

Incredibly Sally has started a GoFundMe to raise money for her son’s burial, although a burial and service with full military honors is supplied by the Army at no charge. While she remarried after she was released from prison, it is odd that she is going by Ray’s last name, the one who she said abused her and that she killed with two shotgun blasts.

She wrote: “Hi my name is Sally McNeil and I am trying to raise money to bury my American War Hero Son John Lowden Jr. with dignity and Honor he deserves just like in the Song The Green Beret. This was unexpected, he was shot down unarmed in the streets of Augusta, GA. He deserves a Viking funeral. I want to send him off with the full Honors he deserves. Semper Fidelis

Watch news coverage of Sally’s arrest and trial from CBS 8 San Diego https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S87DZ5ZQ8g4

Vietnam War Protests in Oceanside and the History of the Green Machine

A small cottage home near downtown Oceanside, California was once the headquarters of an influential protest movement during the Vietnam War. Celebrities such as Jane Fonda and Elliott Gould made appearances at the house to encourage and show support to protest organizers and their followers.

519 South Freeman Street in about 1991

In June of 1969 an underground organization known as the “Green Machine” affiliated with the Movement for a Democratic Military (MDM) met in a small home near Vista, and encouraged planned demonstrations at both the Camp Pendleton military base and in the City of Oceanside.  

The meetings were modest in size, attracting between 30 and 75 persons. The Oceanside Blade Tribune newspaper identified the local movement as an anti-war organization similar to other “coffee house groups across the nation” operating “under the guise of providing entertainment for servicemen while spreading an anti-war and anti-military message.”

Letter written by Kent Hudson in 1969 to Marine Blues

The group was headed by Kent Hudson and Pat Sumi, attracting a following of both military and civilians, mainly students.

Kent Leroy Hudson was born in 1944 in Riverside County, California. As a youth he attended Vista High School, graduating in 1962. Hudson was also a Stanford graduate and a Navy Reservist. In 1965, Hudson spoke at the Vista-San Marcos Democratic Club about his experiences in Louisiana and voter registration of Blacks that summer. 

Kent Hudson at Vista High School in 1959

In July 1968, Hudson had joined what the San Luis Obispo Telegram-Tribune called a “16-person troupe” who had organized small campaigns to encourage protests of the draft and oppression. The newspaper described the group as “bone-tired” and that their two-week campaign had exhausted their funds with no great result.

Hudson would find the following he was seeking one year later when he relocated his efforts to the Vista and Oceanside area in San Diego County. He first applied for a permit to operate a coffee house in Oceanside but was met with resistance from the city council. The group settled on a small house at 2133 North Santa Fe Avenue and converted the garage into a meeting space.

Oceanside Police Sergeant John Key described the location: “The house in Vista was surrounded by slit trenches that had been dug all the way around the house. There had been concertina wire strung on barricades that could have been pulled across the access to the house. It was, for all intents and purposes, fortified.”

Sumi and Hudson held modest gatherings, looking for support. Folksinger Barbara Dane offered it in the way of a performance and held a concert at the Armed Services Center in Oceanside.

USO building, Southeast corner of Third (Pier View Way) and Tremont Streets.

Volunteer workers and staff at the center were “surprised” by the performance as they expected folk, not protests songs. It was reported that the largely military audience joined Dane in singing anti-war songs and shouting “Join the ASU”, short for the American Servicemen’s Union. Hudson himself reported that one person in the crowd stood up and shouted, “Shoot the Lifers!”

After her performance, group members held a party at the house in Vista and a movement was born. Meetings were announced through “handbills” which were passed out to Marines by Green Machine supporters on Camp Pendleton. Then members picked up the Marines, and others interested in the meetings, on Saturday nights at various pickup points.

The Oceanside Blade Tribune described a typical meeting: “There the audience gets a soft-sell anti-war take from Pat Sumi, an accomplished speaker.  They are also served free coffee and beans, and often treated to folk-singing of anti-war and anti-military songs. Recent meetings have featured a Black Panther leader from San Francisco, and nationally known folk singer Phil Ochs, an avowed pacifist. The meeting featuring the Black Panther leader included “liberation” films and speeches threatening black insurrection.”

In perhaps to alienate white readers from the group, the newspaper described the attendees as predominantly Black: “Approximately two-thirds of the audience of about 65 was black, most were Marines, but there were also two black students from Oceanside attending.”     

A list of “demands” was published and distributed by the group, which read in part:

  1. We demand the right to collective bargaining
  2. Extend all human and constitutional rights to military men and women
  3. Stop all military censorship and intimidations
  4. Abolish all mental and physical cruelty in military brigs
  5. We demand the abolition of present court-martial and nonjudicial punishment systems
  6. We demand wages equal to the minimum federal wage
  7. We demand the abolition of the class structure of the military
  8. End all racism, everywhere
  9. Free all political prisoners
  10. Stop all glorification of war now prevalent in all branches of the military
  11. Abolish the draft and all involuntary enlistment
  12. Pull out of Vietnam now

The immediate goals of the Green Machine were as follows:

  1. Disturbances involving police were to be escalated by the military personnel
  2. Military personnel were to wear black armbands while on liberty in civilian clothes
  3. To have mass meetings in the Oceanside beach area on December 15, 1969
  4. To have another mass meeting at Buddy Todd Park on March 15, 1970
  5. To start a newspaper called the Attitude Check
  6. Marines were to create problems aboard the base at Camp Pendleton

While similar groups were organizing all over the country, the Green Machine’s presence was an uneasy and unfamiliar one for Oceanside. For over two decades the city had embraced the military and their families since the base was established in 1942 during World War II. The population included many former military personnel who chose to make their home in Oceanside after their stint (long or short) in the Marines or Navy. Many residents and business owners were in angst over the anti-war messages the group espoused, because even if they themselves were not in favor of the war, they wanted to support the military.   

It was clear that Hudson just wasn’t against the war, but against the Marine Corps as a military institution when he wrote the following statements:

No clear-thinking man joins the Marine Corps, there are to (sic) many better alternatives.”

I have yet to meet the marine who joined to serve his country. He certainly exists, but in a tiny majority.”

The Force Reconnaissance trainees I have met are mostly acid heads.

The Green Machine sponsored a bus trip to Los Angeles where members could meet with Black Panthers, and the group continued on to San Francisco to participate in a march. The trip was paid for by Green Machine “allies.”

The MDM held its first rally in Buddy Todd Park in September of 1969, where it first attracted the attention of local officials and police, and the FBI was kept advised of its activities. They began publishing an underground newspaper called “Attitude Check” which was offered to Marines in downtown Oceanside.

Theresa Cerda, a local resident recalled in a 1999 interview that she got involved in the group after attending a “love-in” in Cardiff. Kent Hudson spoke and asked if anyone was interested in “organizing the G.I.’s to resist the war” to meet with him afterwards.

A 17-year-old high school student at that time, Cerda explained that the movement was funded by “rich lawyers” who “were willing to fund us to be their mouthpiece, but they backed us with money and legal.  They were more the fundraiser people, the glamour, the upper echelon, we were the grunts, and we went out and did all the work.”

Hudson and group members would take vans from their house in Vista and travel to downtown Oceanside and walk the streets passing out leaflets. Teresa remembered that they were met with both resistance and acceptance. “On Hill Street [or] Coast Highway — that was very scary because we had a mix of people.  I remember several times when some of the Marines would get really upset and take stacks of stuff away from me and burn them. There were times when other Marines would gather around me and protect me and say, ‘this is freedom of speech and I want to hear what she has to say’.  It was usually the Black Marines, the African American Marines that would protect me.  And then soon, it started snowballing and then after that we had a good mix.”

Organizers planned a beach rally in Oceanside in November of 1969, an event that set many in Oceanside on edge. City officials attempted to block the organized march, appeals were filed, and protestors vowed to march with or without a permit. The Oceanside Blade Tribune urged residents to remain calm with an editorial entitled “Keep Cool Sunday”.

            “The courts will decide today whether Sunday’s march and rally in Oceanside will be held with or without the sanction of a parade permit from Oceanside. The constitutional questions of right of free speech and assembly are the heart of the issue – and whether the city’s decision is a political one as charged or merely enforcement of city ordinances.

            But the court decision is really secondary to the march for it will happen regardless of the court’s ruling.

            March organizers have stated they plan to walk through the city on the sidewalks – rather than parade through the streets – to fulfill the march plans.

            Organizers say it is too late to call off the march, and it is too late.  Leaflets have been distributed to colleges in Southern California advertising the demonstration.

            The spectre of violence, and that possibility is high in the minds of law enforcement officials charged with the responsibility of maintaining law and order Sunday, is a main overriding factor.

            There are rumors of marines from Camp Pendleton staging a counterdemonstration to protest the anti-war and anti-military philosophies of the marchers.

            There is also going to be a relatively large contingent of Black Panthers in the march and recent events involving the organization would indicate no love lost on their part for law officials.

            Angela Davis, the communist college professor, is also scheduled to speak and the massive patriotism of the area may likely be sharply prodded by what she may say in her speech.

            The potential for violence is high.

            But if everyone – marchers, the speakers, the marines, the spectators, and those pro and con – will just cool it Sunday, everything will go off without a hitch.

            Although there are always troublemakers in marches of this nature, the main body of the marchers are quit determined to keep things peaceful.

            March leaders have informed The Blade-Tribune they intend to do all in their power to keep the peace and are bringing 200 monitors in to patrol the march.

            There will be little sense in letting passions and tempers, however justified by philosophy and belief, flare into violence.

            The only loser will be the city of Oceanside.

            The march will only be a memory after Sunday, and it would be much better as a peaceful memory.”

The day of the march the Blade-Tribune minimized and mocked the organizers and persons expected to speak.

            “There is a beautiful lineup of characters for the day:

            –  Former military officers who wouldn’t follow orders;

            –  Black Panthers who have preached hate and violence in this country since their organization was founded;

            –  A Communist teacher;

            –  Leftwing “peace-at-any-price” speakers;

            –  Unhappy military types who can’t take discipline and order;

            –  A full parade of fuzzy-thinking, fuzzy-looking creeps.

            There is nothing good; you can say about this march, unless you espouse the thinking of those who support it.

            So stay home today. There are very few area residents who will be supporting this march.  Don’t be counted among them. Don’t help the Communist cause.”

In contrast the conservative stance the local newspaper took, John Richardson, a nephew of Oceanside Mayor Howard T. Richardson, was an avid supporter of the march and saw “the protest movement in this country as a means of solving problems.”  An Oceanside High School math teacher, he encouraged his students to take part or at least an interest in the MDM’s message.

John Richardson, Teacher at Oceanside High School

The Blade Tribune reported a list Richardson’s views and remarks:  “He views the reaction of Oceanside Police and town officials to both [the] march and the Green Machine as “in conflict with the Bill of Rights.”

“I get just as upset when I read of the reaction of most people to the Green Machine as I did when I heard President Agnew’s attack on the press,” said Richardson. “My own personal opinion is that there are many needs in this country which are just beginning to surface.”

The article continued saying “Richardson explained the presence of Black Panthers at Green Machine meetings by saying black servicemen aboard Camp Pendleton had “expressed a desire to find out what the Panthers is all about.” Richardson, who has attended “five or six” meetings of the Green Machine said however he had never been present at a meeting of that group when a Black Panther spoke. Yet, he criticized an eye-witness account of a Green Machine meeting at which Panthers did speak, published in the Blade Tribune.

“He explained that he had been at other meetings where the Panthers spoke and said he felt in sympathy with the reporter who attended the Green Machine meeting only because he knew it “must have been the first time he had heard the Panthers speak.”

“It can be scary,” said Richardson, “especially the first time someone is exposed to it. After that however you realize that they are speaking from their hearts and from the heart of the black ghetto,” said Richardson. “Their language is the language of the ghetto, and the ghetto is not a happy place.”

“We need change, and we need it fast,” he said. “This need for change…for good change in the American political systems is why I support the movement in general and why I support the Green Machine in Oceanside. The movement is where the demand for change if being generated.  Fear of the movement and fear of change is the situation Oceanside is confronted with.” He cited Oceanside’s “over-reaction” to the Green Machine as a case in point.

Illustration of law enforcement by Frank Zincavage, Oceanside High School Yearbook, 1970

The Movement for a Democratic Military, along with Rev. William R. Coates of La Jolla, coordinated the planned march and rally which was sponsored by the Citizens Mobilization Committee (CMC), which secured a court order for the march permit when the city council refused to grant it.

The march began at Recreation Park, just east of Brooks Streets and made its way west to downtown. It was reported that 250 active-duty servicemen participated and that they represented “almost 40 per cent of ‘snuffies’ in the Southland who sympathize with the MDM.” Snuffies were Privates or low-ranking military members.

The vast majority of the marchers came from outside of Oceanside from other organizations and included the Peace Action Council of Los Angeles, the Socialist Workers Party of Los Angeles, the SDS of Los Angeles and San Diego, the Black Panther Party of Los Angeles and were joined by the Young Socialist Alliance, Student Mobilization Committee, the Clergy and Laymen Concerned and Medical Committee for Human Rights.

The Oceanside Blade Tribune described the scene: “Marchers carrying hundreds of signs, most calling for an end to the war in Vietnam.  Many of the signs also urged support for various anti-war and anti-military groups.  Most of the marchers were young, in their teens and twenties, but several middle-aged persons and a few elderly persons marched. The vast majority of the marchers wore hippie or mod clothes, but some of the marchers were dressed in business suits and fashionable clothing.

“Hippies” by Frank Zincavage, Oceanside High School Yearbook, 1970

“Marchers chanted, “One, two, three, four, we won’t fight your fascist war,” and “Peace, Now!” and “Two, four, six, eight, let’s destroy this fascist state,” and “Power to the People.”

“A march cheerleader atop a bus leading the parade kept up a continual banter of slogans, many in support of the Black Panthers. There were few Black Panthers present, despite a scheduled mass turnout.

“There were very few spectators along the mile-long march route until it reached the downtown business area.  Most of the spectators were obviously against the march, but a few joined the march as it progressed downtown.

“A crowd of about 200 spectators, mostly Camp Pendleton marines, was gathered along Hill Street between Mission and Third Street.  Some of the spectators jeered and booed the marchers.

“Just before the march reached the Beach Stadium, a brief scuffle broke out when an angry marine attempted to charge a marcher who was carrying a Viet Cong flag. His companions and police subdued him.”

A vehicle parked along the demonstration route greeted marchers with the slogan, “Better Dead Than Red” painted on its side.  As the march continued on Hill Street to Third Street (Coast Highway to Pier View Way) a vocal gathering at the USO challenged the anti-war group with their own signs and slogans.

Counter-protestors “The American Machine” as opposed to the Green Machine, 1969, San Diego History Center photo

The march culminated at Oceanside’s beach amphitheater where the keynote speaker was Angela Davis. The local newspaper described her as tall and lanky and added she “could have passed for a high fashion model.”

It had been reported that an “armed pro-war marine” was “perched somewhere in the crowd with a rifle, ready to gun down Angela Davis, the Marxist UCLA assistant philosophy professor.” A request was made for members of the MDM to form a “human cordon” around Davis. The Blade Tribune reported that “at first, only black marines showed up but several white marines showed up when a call was issued, ‘Let’s see some whites up here too.’”

Protests coming down Mission Avenue, San Diego History Center

A group of 10 to 12 men accompanied Angela Davis and her sister Fanta to the stage at the Oceanside bandshell. It was noted that while surrounded by her protectors, Davis was “barely visible” while she spoke.

She began her speech by calling “Richard M. Nixon, our non-president, a hypocrite who is a killer, a pig and a murderer.” She called for an end to “genocide” and other “imperialist action” against the Vietnamese people and the black community, specifically the Black Panthers.”

Crowds filled the Oceanside Beach Stadium, 1969, San Diego History Center

“There are people who will be shocked about My Lai but they will do nothing more than sit back and say how outrageous it is. They don’t realize that My Lai is no exception.  It is the essence of U.S. government policy in Vietnam, just like the Chicago and Los Angeles raids are the essence of policy toward the Black Panther Party.

“The Green Beret is trained to murder Vietnamese.  In Los Angeles, the police pigs have a special squad rained to murder Panthers – SWATS, the Special Weapons and Tactical Squad who came to present the warrants to our 11 black sisters and brothers in the Panther office.

“Why are the Black Panthers the target of attack? J. Edgar Hoover said it is because the Panthers pose the greatest threat to national security.

“And we pose the greatest threat to the Nixons, the Reagans, the Yortys, the Kennedys, the defense industry, the ruling class of this country … because they have shown the masses that it is necessary for all oppressed people to unite.”

Davis went on to set the following demands:

            – Immediate and unconditional withdrawal of all troops in Vietnam.

            – Victory for the National Liberation Front, political speakers for the North Vietnamese.

            – Recognition of the South Vietnam Provisional Revolutionary Government, set up for the Paris peace talks, as being the true representatives of the people.

            – That the occupying force be withdrawn from the Black Community.

            – That all political prisoners, including Panthers Bobby Seale, Huey Newton and Eldridge Cleaver, be freed.

            – That the liberation movement be victorious for the oppressed peoples.

Davis was followed by Susan Schnall, a former Navy nurse who was court-martialed for participating in anti-war rallies. Other speakers were Captain Howards Levy, United States Army (Retired) and Don Duncan, an ex-Green Beret.

The protestors and demonstrators were observed by approximately 190 law enforcement officers, representing every agency in San Diego County. No arrests were made although there were skirmishes between Marines and demonstrators and varying factions amongst the gathered groups. Law enforcement “covered every intersection” and “monitored the parade route.”

After the speeches were over, demonstrators and spectators began leaving the beach stadium, but a group of angry Marines remained behind police lines. They eventually “dashed through the stadium and into the streets behind the dispersing demonstrators.”

The Marines, a group estimated at 75 “charged into the main body of demonstrators on Third Street (Pier View Way) near the Santa Fe Railroad tracks” and nearly two dozen people openly fought in the street. Marine PFC Merl Windsor, 18 years of age, suffered a laceration after he was struck in the head by a rock thrown by demonstrators.  

Law enforcement separated the two groups which ran east toward Hill Street (Coast Highway) and stood on opposite corners. The Marines waved a large American flag, and “cheered their side of the issue” while the demonstrators hurled “an occasional taunt and threat.” There was no other violence reported.

To restore order, police dispersed the crowds and drew a “line of demarcation down the middle of Third Street, and attempted to keep traffic flowing on Hill Street. By 6:30 p.m. the situation was termed “secure” and by 7 p.m. downtown Oceanside was nearly deserted.

“It’s a tough job when you must provide protection for both sides the peace-marchers and the counter-demonstrators,” Police Chief Ward Ratcliff told the Oceanside Blade Tribune. He added that the rumor of an attempt to assassinate Angela Davis was unsubstantiated. Ratcliff noted that none of the “estimated 3,500 to 4,000 demonstrators were left stranded in town” and that he was “thankful for the community support the police department received.”     

“There were times when they [police officers] were challenged and they remained calm.  We could have very easily had a serious situation,” Ratcliff said.

Mayor Richardson said the march “Looked like an open sewer running through the streets.”

Mayor Howard Richardson, left; John Steiger, right.

A few months later, in March of 1970, the Movement for a Democratic Military opened a coffee house in the Eastside neighborhood of Oceanside at 418 San Diego Street. It was reported that Black residents clashed with members of the MDM and that one evening shots were fired but no one was injured.

Just days after the Eastside location was established, and perhaps because of the unexpected confrontations, it was announced that the “Green Machine,” would be headquartered at a small house at 519 South Freeman Street.

Purchased for $19,000, the two-bedroom house was obtained via a “double closing” which is the simultaneous purchase and sale involving three parties: the seller, a middleman and a final buyer. This double closing was likely done in order the conceal the identity of the purchaser(s).

The Oceanside Blade Tribune reported that the “purchase was handled by Strout Realty, who were unaware of the actual buyers of the house. A complicated chain of trustees and secondary brokers which winds back to a Beverly Hills-based broker and a Palo Alto resident purchased the house, telling agents of Strout Realty that the property would be used as ‘rental income.’ [The] actual owner of the house apparently is Paul Robert Moore, of Palo Alto, who purchased the house through the Lawrence Moore trust funds.”

After the house was purchased on South Freeman Street, Cerda recalled meeting celebrities like actress and activist Jane Fonda, her sister Lynn Redgrave, along with actors Donald Southland and Elliott Gould, who provided financial support to the movement. Katherine Cleaver, attorney, Black Panther activist and wife of Eldridge Cleaver provided political clout and legal support. While visiting the MDM headquarters celebrities and those with political status would build up the morale of members by visiting and eating “beans from a pot” with them.

A flyer was distributed that read: “The Green Machine Project and Movement for a Democratic Military invites you to an Open House and MDM Meeting.” It went on to say that “We are going to have political speakers Robert Bryan and others from the Southern California Black Panther Party, and special guest, Miss Jane Fonda.”

A leaflet was distributed in the downtown neighborhood which stated in part: “The Green Machine Project and Movement for a Democratic Military have moved into a staff house and meeting place at 519 S. Freeman. You have probably heard or read a great deal about us in the past few months, much of it negative. We would like to have a chance to counter many of the distortions and outright lies by opening our doors to you. We would be pleased if all our new neighbors would stop by and chat with us to find out what we are really all about. Our doors are usually open from noon until late in the evening every day except Monday.”

On Sunday March 22, Jane Fonda arrived at the small house on Freeman Street, accompanied by three members of the Black Panther Party. She met with approximately 30 guests at the MDM headquarters, stayed about two hours and then departed.

Jane Fonda at UCLA, Gary Leonard photographer

While the invitation passed around seemed welcoming, the house itself was fortified and its occupants armed. Sandbags had been stacked to create a barricade on the interior of the home. Gun ports made of bricks were spaced between the walls of sandbags. The attic contained a bell and a “light warning system.”  

Six weeks later, on April 28th, the house and its occupants were fired upon by an unknown gunman in a car. Eleven rounds were fired, one striking and wounding Pvt. Jesse Woodward, Jr., of Support Company, H&S Battalion, Camp Pendleton. Woodward was struck in the shoulder and taken to the Naval Hospital aboard Camp Pendleton. Identified as a “deserter from the Marine Corps” Woodward, age 19, had been absent without leave for over 4 weeks, a base spokesman said.

The Oceanside Police Department were called and dispatched to the residence at 11:55 p.m. Upon their arrival they found “about a dozen rounds of ammunition, probably .45 caliber, had been fired into the front of the house.” Police confiscated eight to nine rifles and shotguns in the possession of the MDM group.

An unidentified woman at the house was shaken, “We’ve known something like [this] might happen for a long time and our first reaction was to hit the floor.” She pointed to a large cut on her knee saying, “this came from crawling through the glass.”

Thomas Hurwitz, one of the organizers of the MDM claimed that the group was unaware that Woodward was a deserter and responded to the shooting advocating for peace: “We are urging those who attend to adopt a non-violent attitude. We don’t scare easy. We are angered and feel it was a political action.  This was meant to scare marines but all it will do is make them realize we are fighting for them. It didn’t scare them … people in the military are used to being shot at, but it did make them angry.” Hurwitz, who devoted several years to anti-war protests and activism would go on to be a notable documentary cinematographer, with two Emmy Awards and a host of other awards and accolades.

The Oceanside Blade Tribune condemned the shooting in an editorial that ran May 3, 1970, entitled “Dangerous Move.” 

The Movement for a Democratic military and its predecessor, the Green Machine, have raised a lot of hackles in the North County area since they were formed last year.

“The philosophy espoused by these anti-military, anti-war groups is a direct contradiction to the general philosophy of the average resident of North County. It is understandable that feelings are so firmly polarized about these two philosophies.

“Much of the North County is retired military men who believed in the Armed Services so strongly they made it their lives’ career. The small but determined group of people who compose the MDM and Green Machine have made themselves strongly felt in the area, while accomplishing little. Most people in the Tri-City area look upon the two groups as little more than troublemakers, and the two groups have done little to prove otherwise.

“The Blade-Tribune, which first brought the machinations of these groups to the public eye, questions the motivations and honesty of the MDM and Green Machine. They have publicly admitted that their intent is to tear down the military, the backbone of the nation’s defense. They hedge when asked where their funding comes from, and just who supports the non-working crew. They have done little but cause trouble in the community, from polarizing the dissident blacks at Camp Pendleton to attracting every unhappy “marine” who bit off more than he could chew when he enlisted. They stir up trouble, under the guise of “liberating the enlisted man.” They deserve all the public dislike and distrust they have generated.

“But no matter how vociferous the disagreement, the differences should never have come to the shooting which occurred on Tuesday night. That act is far more damaging to the situation in the north County than weeks of weak, ill-attended and poorly supported demonstrations by the MDM.

“The residents of this area should be relieved that no one died in that shooting of the MDM headquarters.  The 25 or so persons in the home at the time miraculously escaped the 11 shots fired. Had one of those persons been killed, it would have polarized the forces supporting the MDM, given the group a martyr, and likely prompted an influx of national leftwing radicals into the area.

“The North County can live with the MDM, despite how strongly most of the area’s residents oppose the group’s philosophies. But it cannot live with what will result from any more of the idiocy which prompted the gang-style shooting attack on the MDM staff house on Tuesday.

“The Blade-Tribune recommends those who disagree with the MDM make their protests in the form of staunch patriotism, not in midnight sneak attacks.”

On April 30, 1970, just two days after the shooting, the MDM organized a demonstration at Santa Fe Park in Vista. Several people were arrested for “disturbing the peace, parading without a permit and unlawful assembly.” Pleading not guilty were Michael Anthony Lawrence, 25, disturbing the peace and unlawful assembly; Thomas Dudley Horowitz (sic), 23, disturbing the peace and parading without a permit; Pvt. Maurice Carl Durham, 20, disturbing the peace; LCpl. William Curtis Chatman III, 21, violating the parade ordinance; James Nelson Snyder, 22, disturbing the peace; and Teresa Cerda, 18, disturbing the peace and parading without a permit.

MDM march from Tyson Street across tracks May 1970 (photo by Nick Bihary)

Just weeks later city leaders and downtown business owners would brace themselves for another “anti-war march and rally” expected to draw a crowd of 20,000. The city again denied a parade permit which the MDM appealed. U. S. District Court Judge Howard B. Turrentine temporarily upheld the city’s denial but set a hearing on the matter. Leaders of the protest said they would go forward with their planned demonstrations with or without a permit.

MDM March across railroad tracks May 1970 (photo by Nick Bihary)

Governor Ronald Reagan’s office issued a statement saying that that “the governor will keep a close watch on the situation in Oceanside, since receiving a telegram Thursday from U. S. Senator Alan Cranston (D-Calif.) in which the senator declared the demonstration ‘Poses a serious threat of possible violence.’” Adding that “If mutual aid is requested, we are ready to supply whatever assistance is needed.”

Law enforcement both city and county met to assess the pending protest. It was reported that the National Guard would “be on an alert, if the situation should get out of control.”

Riot police ready for MDM march at Pacific Street May 1970 (photo by Nick Bihary)

Mayor Howard Richardson stated that, “Oceanside has no intention of providing demonstrators with reasons for violence.  We shall do all within our power to assure the demonstration remains peaceful.”

An unidentified spokesperson for the MDM told the local newspaper that demonstrators would gather at the municipal parking lot at Third (Pier View Way) and Cleveland at 12:30 p.m. Saturday and that protestors would “march south to Tyson; west on Tyson to Pacific Street; South on Pacific to Wisconsin; West on Wisconsin to the Strand and north to the beach stadium.”

Tom Hurwitz stated that he was working with Oceanside police in an effort to keep the demonstration peaceful and added “we will have several hundred monitors to assist the police in controlling the march as it moves from the assembly area to the beach.”

Marchers at the intersection of Mission and Hill Street (Coast Highway) in 1970

On May 16, 1970 an organized march and protest was held but numbers were much lower than the 20,000 persons predicted. A reported 700 law enforcement officers and 200 monitors provided by the MDM watched as a crowd of 4,000 to 5,000 gathered on the streets of downtown Oceanside.

Kent Hudson declared the march a “tremendous success” and praised both the monitors and police for their handling of the situation. The march began with shouts of “Stop the War” and “Peace Now” as well as anti-Nixon, anti-war chants.

It was reported that some of the demonstrators lashed out at the military guards present, shouting obscenities, but the newspaper reported that they were, for the most part, “drowned out by anti-war chatter and hand-clapping by the protesters.”

Footage of 1970 protest from CBS 8 San Diego below:

As the march continued towards the beach, a Santa Fe freight train came into town, blocking the protesters from continuing on their route. After a disruption of ten minutes, the engineer was instructed to proceed south to San Diego without picking up his intended freight. Protesters then made their way south on Pacific Street to Wisconsin where they walked the Strand to the Beach Stadium.

March interrupted by Freight Train in downtown Oceanside, San Diego History Center photo

Tom Hayden, a founder of Students for a Democratic Society, who would later marry Jane Fonda, was the main speaker. There were a few clashes from counter protestors throughout a series of speeches but each were broken up by police.

It was noted that at the end of Hayden’s speech, several demonstrators raced from the stadium into Pacific Street when a small group of counter-demonstrators led by youths for American Freedom burned a Viet Cong flag” and that “during a brief melee between the counter demonstrators and MDM members, one protester was knocked to the ground.”

People’s Armed Forces Day, Oceanside Bandshell, May 1970 (photo by Nick Bihary)

The Oceanside Blade Tribune reported that near the end of the event “all servicemen were asked to stand and show their Military identification cards. Of those who rose to comply at least one burned his card, waving it in the air. Then he swallowed the ashes.”

The newspaper concluded its report that “Many of those present at the demonstration reeked of marijuana.  Others were stone-faced apparently bored by the whole affair or under the influence of drugs. But, the demonstration was peaceful. There were no injuries and no arrests.”

 The following day an editorial ran in the conservative leaning Oceanside Blade Tribune entitled “We Wonder.”

The Blade-Tribune wonders what makes a person like most of the 5,000 or so who marched in the anti-war march in Oceanside Saturday.

We wonder how far the rights of this small-minority of rabble-rousers extend.

We wonder where are the rights of the people who make this country work, who pay the bills, and protect the nation.

We wonder why there are so many leftwingers, communist sympathizers and communists involved in the “peace” movement.

We wonder where the money comes from to support these people who don’t work, but work at undermining our nation.

We wonder why these people are allowed to flaunt the law, marching without parade permits.

We wonder why we, the taxpayers, must foot the bill for their parades.  If they want to march, let them pay the bills.

We wonder why the Movement for a Democratic Military, our local radical group, and sponsor of the Saturday “anti-war” march, is so closely allied with the Black Panthers.

We wonder why so many of our teachers, who are shaping the minds of our children, are actively involved in supporting this movement.

We wonder why our school boards, boards of trustees, and other educational panels, haven’t got the guts to kick campus radicals off campus.

We wonder when the courts are going to get tough and stop bending over backwards to please these idiots.

We wonder if the news media as a whole isn’t encouraging these groups by poking television cameras and microphones and news cameras into their faces every time three of them get together and hold up a sign.

Finally, we wonder when it became unpopular to be a good American, to operate a profitable business, to serve the country, protect the nation.

We don’t think it is unpopular to do these things, but there are too many young radicals undermining this nation by degrading these principals.

Good Americans can only wonder what makes a protestor.  We’re getting a pretty good idea.

Artwork in Oceanside High School Yearbook, 1970

In the summer of 1970, cracks in the unity of the various groups began to show. In July of 1970 Pat Sumi left for North Korea with a group which included exiled Black Panther Leader Eldridge Cleaver. A spokesperson for the MDM said that Sumi’s trip was “financed by several liberal groups located in Southern California.” The group were guests of the Committee for Reunification of Korea.

Just one year later, in 1971, Pat Sumi did an interview and was asked about the Movement for a Democratic Military and if it still existed. She gave a rather defeated reply: “Well, MDM still exists in the minds of people—but that’s not an organization, we discovered. We discovered what the Black Panthers have since discovered—that mass sympathy does not at all mean mass organization. Mass sympathy does not give you the power to change anything. We didn’t understand what an organization was.”

She then offered a different perspective about the group’s efforts and its impact saying, “We really messed up some G.I.’s. A lot of them went to jail. Some had to go AWOL. A few went to Canada. We had no way really to organize power to protect G.I.’s when they were arrested or harassed.”

Of the shooting of the MDM headquarters at 519 South Freeman Street she said: “Finally, the thing that really broke us was in April of 1970, last year. Someone fired 12 rounds into the MDM house and nearly killed a G.I. That was when we discovered we had no organizational way to respond. That was it. That was the crisis. That was when the pigs decided to confront us. That was when we discovered we had no real power.

“After that, it was downhill for the organization. I didn’t understand all this. Last summer, I was running around in Asia telling everyone about MDM when, in fact, it was really falling to pieces. I came home and there was no MDM left.”

In 1972 Oceanside Police Chief Ward Ratcliff, along with Police Sergeant John Key, attended a hearing for the “Investigation of Attempts to Subvert the United States Armed Services” held by the Committee of Internal Security, House of Representatives.

At the hearing the two were called to testify about their knowledge of the Movement for a Democratic Military and its activities in and around Oceanside, along with its principals and the celebrities that supported their cause. By that time the MDM aka the Green Machine, was no longer in Oceanside. Key testified that problems amongst the group surfaced in June of 1970. The Black Unity Party, established by Black Marines, eventually split from the MDM.

In her 1971 Pat Sumi discussed the difficulties amongst the various groups and reflected upon the outcome of the group’s seemingly failed mission:

“I discovered that in relating to international revolutionary movements, you have to represent something. For most of us, except for the Panthers—and even now for the Panthers, it is a question of who do they really represent—you shouldn’t get a bunch of individuals to go. It’s not useful. I suppose what it did do was to heighten my consciousness of the real critical need in the American movement for a party; some kind of guiding force that can take leadership in struggle.

“We don’t have it yet. Everyone is floundering around, trying to find direction on their own. I suspect this period of pre-party struggle will last a great deal longer; in fact, too long. I think we’re going to find that we’ll have to have a party, because a whole lot of us are going to wind up in jail. There’s a good possibility in the next two, three, four years that there’s going to be a massive repression. I don’t think it’ll kill a whole lot of us—but it will put a whole lot of us away.

“People are going to understand what we understood when the pigs decide to confront us, that if you don’t have the organizational power to meet that crisis, then comes the question—’Can you make it, can you make an organization? Will you have that power?'”

In July of 1971 the Oceanside Blade Tribune reported that the “Last Combat Marines” were returning from Vietnam. Members of Support Company, 7th Communications Battalion and Forces Logistics Command aboard the USS St. Louis would arrive Monday, July 19th at Pier “E” at the Long Beach Naval Station. U.S. Military involvement in the Vietnam War continued until 1973.

519 South Freeman Street, 2020 Google view

Today the little house on South Freeman Street still stands. Its cottage-like architecture belies its role as headquarters of a war protest movement, which for a brief time was the gathering place for young activists, counter-culture revolutionaries and celebrity sympathizers.