Gay men and hair: It’s an issue as old as time itself. Or Oscar Wilde. Or La Cage.
Guys want to look amazing. But who can they turn to to get answers to their questions about their hair and how to get it right?
A gay barber or hairstylist, of course!
That’s why we connected with our network of gay (and LGBTQ-ally) hairstylists and barbers to get answers to the Q's you always wanted to ask.
1. How can I grow my hair faster?
Every gay man who is losing his hair has asked this question. Here’s the science, then the "short" answer.
Hair grows in three stages: The anagen phase is a period of active hair growth. It lasts from two to eight years. Hair stops growing during the catagen phase, which lasts four to six weeks. Then hair falls out during the telogen phase. What to do? Take Minoxidil!
Minoxidil, more commonly known as Rogaine, increases blood flow to the scalp and prolongs the anagen growth phase. Taking it is a proven way to increase hair growth and prevent loss.
Dietary supplements that promise to improve hair growth have been around for a long time. Yet, there is no scientific proof that they work.
However, a healthy diet and lifestyle can help you grow and keep your hair. Foods rich in biotin, also known as vitamin B7, are essential. In Germany, biotin has been referred to as vitamin H for Haar und Haut, German for hair and skin, for a long time.
Vitamins A, C, D, and E, plus biotin and minerals like iron and zinc, help keep hair healthy during the growth phase. A diet rich in vegetables and protein will meet these vitamin and mineral needs and help keep your hair healthy and growing.
In the end, Minoxidil and a sound diet and lifestyle are the surest ways to keep your hair looking its thickest and best.
2. How can I cut my own hair?
Guys, do not cut your hair. Self-done haircuts are NOT a smart way to save money unless you’re going to commit to a buzz cut.
There are excellent barbers and stylists out there at every price point. If you don’t have the time or money to maintain a hairstyle that requires a haircut every four to six weeks, let your barber know, and they will recommend a look that grows out well and needs less upkeep.
3. How can I grow my hair longer?
Hair grows about half an inch a month: that’s a total of six inches a year.
It’s important to know that growing your hair takes more than just time and patience. You also need to care for your hair, and work with your stylist, so that you look good while doing it.
Longer hair is older hair. Short hair can look fine even when damaged by things like styling and coloring because it’s more resilient. It’s essential to take extra care of older, longer hair that less healthy.
Take these steps to ensure your hair stays healthy while you grow it out:
Avoid using the hot setting on your hairdryer
Don’t shampoo every day because it dries hair out
Apply a conditioner every time you shower, whether you shampoo or not
Ask your hairstylist about oils and other treatments you can apply to your hair to keep it strong
Eat a balanced diet heavy on proteins and richly colored vegetables. It will provide the nutrients needed to grow healthy hair
If you color your hair, get it done professionally to avoid damaging it.
Finally, work with your barber or stylist to find a cut that grows out well and avoids awkward phases. Your hair still needs to be trimmed even while you’re growing it out.
4. What can I do if my hair is curly?
Getting a good haircut is critical for men with curly hair. It allows you to work with your natural waves and not against them. Men become frustrated with their curls when they reject them rather than embrace them.
Curly hair tends to be dry because the oils from the scalp cannot work their way down the hair shaft. Skipping shampooing whenever possible and using a conditioner will keep your hair softer and shinier.
When you style your hair, use a cream or other product made for wavy hair. Products should enhance your hair’s texture, not eliminate it. When you get your hair cut, ask your barber for tips on how to style it right.
5. How do I straighten my hair?
As I covered in the previous section, our experts believe it’s best for guys with wavy hair to embrace its natural texture. Still, if you want to wear a straight style for a special occasion, use a strong hold pomade on damp hair and comb it into a pompadour or side part style or whatever you imagine.
For more options, you can blow dry or flat iron hair. Always start with a heat protection spray to prevent styling damage. Coat hair and begin blow drying while pulling the hair straight with a round or flat brush. Keep going in sections until your hair is dry and styled to your liking. Spray hair to keep it in place. Don’t style your hair this way too often, or you could seriously damage it.
6. How can I make my hair look thicker?
Fine and thin hair can look fuller and thicker if you use the right products and styling tools. Fine hair means each strand of hair is thin. Thin hair means you have low hair density. In either case, here are some things our Gay Wellness experts recommend that you do to make your hair look fuller.
Thickeners
Hair thickening shampoos, conditioners, and sprays that contain polymers can make hair look up to 20 percent thicker. Use one or all of these products daily because they wash out. There are many more — and better — thickening products available for women than men, so don’t limit yourself to brands targeted to men.
Texture
Haircuts and products that enhance texture create separation and definition that make hair look thicker.
Talk to your stylist about whether it makes sense to cut your hair into a style that enhances its texture. Then try out some products like clays, putties, and creams that improve texture. Using salt spray before styling is another excellent way to enhance texture.
Volume
The number one way to make hair thicker is by increasing volume. Use mousses, styling powders, and dry shampoos to do so. When you use these products and style your hair with a blow dryer and brush, you can create high-volume looks that last all day like pomps, sweep backs, and spikes.
7. How should I part my hair?
To part or not to part, and if you do part, where? It’s a conundrum men face when they look in the mirror every day. The part is a minor detail that can make a big difference. While guys with medium and long hairstyles usually look good with a center part, a side part is universally flattering. However, where you place a side part can make all the difference.
When you get a haircut, a good barber or stylist should move your hair around to figure out what direction your hair grows in, so the part works with your hair. Try it yourself by pulling your hair back with your fingers and shifting hair to the left and then to the right to see which way it wants to go. You may find that you’ve been parting it in the wrong place all along.
8. How often should men wash their hair?
Not every day, that’s for sure.
Many guys shampoo their hair every time they shower to keep it from getting oily. Shampooing strips the scalp of oil, leaving it dry. When your scalp becomes dry, it produces more oil, which turns into an unending cycle.
To get your scalp to produce less oil, start by shampooing every other day for about a month. Then shampoo twice a week. There may be an adjustment period but continue to reduce how often you wash your hair until you find a good balance for yourself. You can still shower every day. Just rinse your hair with water and massage in a light conditioner when you don’t shampoo.
Just like you probably shower more in the hot weather months, you may end up shampooing more in the summer and less in the winter.
To freshen up on days you don’t shampoo, try using a dry shampoo. Just spray the powder into your hair at the roots and work it in. It will cut through oil and help increase hair volume.
Lots more tips here from Jonathan Van Ness:
9. What’s the right way to comb hair?
Combing and brushing hair does more than just styling and smoothing it. Brushing from roots to tips distributes the scalp oil onto your hair which is a natural form of conditioning. It also massages the scalp, increasing blood flow and exfoliating the skin. Brushing isn’t something reserved for guys with long hair. Daily brushing makes for a healthy scalp and hair for everyone. It can even help men experiencing hair loss keep more of it.
Wet hair is delicate and susceptible to breakage. Use a wide-tooth comb or wet brush to detangle hair right after you get out of the shower. Once your hair is damp or dry, use a comb or brush to guide it while blow-drying, defining a part, or styling it. First, comb hair in whatever direction it takes to remove tangles and then comb it in the direction you want it to go.
10. What’s the best way to blow dry hair?
Many guys don’t blow dry their hair anymore. However, it helps create volume and fuller or straighter hairstyles. Heat sets hair into place for styles that last longer, reducing your need to use products.
Here’s how to dry hair properly:
Start with damp, not wet, hair. Rub it with a towel or an old, clean t-shirt to remove drips. Let your hair air dry for a few minutes if you like.
Next, spray hair with a heat protectant to prevent styling damage and frizz. These products also add volume, help straighten hair, or fight frizz. No matter the case, they all help keep hair healthier when you heat dry it.
Then use a flat or round brush and your dryer on the medium setting with high airspeed to shape your hair into the hairstyle you want. To add volume to a pompadour, brush it up and back. To straighten curly hair, hairbrush it out from the roots applying some tension. Continue to work your hair until it’s dry and styled.
Finish off with a blast of air at the cold setting to set the look.
Finally, add a touch of hair product for all-day hold.
Blow drying for men is a really easy and effective way to up your hair game. Check out videos online or consult with your stylist if you find it hard to master blow-drying your hair.
Jonathan Van Ness has this amazing tutorial on giving yourself the perfect blowout:
11. What’s the best way to fade men’s hair?
Partner with a professional. Do not try this at home. A good fade takes expertise and a steady hand, not a mirror, clippers, and a Youtube video. Go to a barber or stylist.
12. How can men dye their own hair?
Similar to getting a fade, leave hair dye to the professionals, unless you’re simply using a semi-permanent color to cover some grey. This type of hair dye washes out slowly over four to six weeks, depending on the color, brand, and how often you shampoo. Because this type of product washes out slowly, there will never be any visible roots that tell the world you colored your hair.
For anything more dramatic than this, like going blond or adding rainbow highlights, turn to a professional with experience in coloring men’s hair. This isn’t something every barber and stylist can do well, so ask questions before turning over your locks to a colorist.
13. How can I twist black men’s hair?
The easiest way to create twists is with a curl sponge. There are several brands available. The size of the holes will determine the size of the twists. Select one with smaller holes for smaller, more dread-like twists or one with wider holes for larger twists.
Begin by applying a conditioner to dry hair. Rub it in and leave it for about a minute. Next, use the curl sponge at the side of the head and start working it in circles. Never change direction, or you’ll end up with a mess.
Just keep rubbing the sponge in circles all over your head until twists form. Keep going if you want to make dreads. When you’re done, you can leave your hair as it is or work in a pomade for extra hold.
14. How can I braid men’s hair?
Whether it’s the growing popularity of longer hairstyles or natural black hair, braids are a hot trend for gay men.
Viking braids or French plaits can be learned at home from a YouTube video or girlfriend with experience. A braid is just three strands of hair crossed over and over and over each other. It takes practice, but men can do this on their own and for each other.
Cornrows are another thing entirely. This type of braid is best done by professionals who can ensure even braids that are tight enough to last.
15. Can men bleach their hair at home?
Two words: Green hair. And not the good kind of green. Bleaching hair is another tactic better handled by professionals rather than at home.
And even worse than green hair, the harsh chemicals used in the bleaching process can cause burns, eye damage, and more. There’s a reason people get licensed to bleach hair, and you should respect it.
Got questions about your hair? Check out the barbers and stylists on the Gay Wellness site and message them. They’ll definitely be able to help you out.
