Is there anything better than Paris in the summer? Ok, maybe Paris in the winter (read my Paris winter travel guide here). Or maybe in the spring? Honestly, I don’t care what time of year it is. Audrey Hepburn was right…Paris is always a good idea! In my previous post, I shared my Paris summer wardrobe and tips for packing. Today I’m giving you my Eat+Stay+Play Paris summer travel guide, including our weeklong itinerary and travel tips!

If this is your first time in Paris, you may want to combine this travel guide with my winter travel guide for a more complete experience of Paris’ monuments and museums. This was our fourth time in Paris, so our itinerary looks a bit different than it would for a first-timer. That being said, we still haven’t seen or done everything there is to do in Paris. It’s a city that you just can’t fully know after your first time. But if you are able, you should definitely visit!

Know Before You Go

We traveled to Paris in July 2021. At the time, here is what was required for travel from the U.S. to France:

Proof of COVID vaccination or proof of negative COVID test. Antigen test accepted. CDC card accepted – Even though Paul and I are both fully vaccinated, we scheduled a rapid test with CVS the day before we left, just to be responsible travelers. Without either proof of vaccination or proof of a negative test, you are not allowed to board your flight.

You will also need proof of vaccination or proof of a negative COVID test to enter museums, cinemas, Eiffel Tower, and other places of cultural significance. In August, you will be required to show this to eat inside at restaurants.

A negative COVID test is required to return to the U.S. 

Signed sworn affidavit that you knowingly do not have COVID19 and have not been exposed to anyone who has COVID19. (However, no one asked to see these)

Passport – This one seems obvious, but since international travel has been off limits for some time, this is just a reminder to check your passport expiration date!

Keep in mind that rules and regulations change quickly and frequently, so be prepared to be flexible. Do your homework (i.e. research what is required of you and have everything gathered ahead of time). We had a very smooth travel experience because we were prepared!

For all museums, you will need to book your tickets ahead of time for a timed reservation.

Our Weeklong Paris Summer Travel Itinerary

Saturday – Depart San Antonio -> Washington D.C. -> Paris (overnight flight)

Sunday – Arrive in Paris in the morning and drop luggage at AirBnb. Official check in time is in the afternoon, but the owner allowed us to leave our things while the maid was cleaning.

Spend time walking around the neighborhood. We stayed right by Notre Dame and walked over to Luxembourg Gardens. 

Lunch from Pret-a-Manger and have a picnic in the park. Hit the grocery market for some provisions (bottled water, wine, snacks, etc). Unpack at the AirBnb and get ready for dinner at La Jacobine.

Monday – 

Paris sight-seeing: Musée de l’Orangerie and Eiffel Tower. 

Lunch at Caveau du Palais and dinner at AirBnb.

Tuesday – 

Day trip to Rouen. 

Lunch at Le Bistrot des Carmes with dessert at Dame Cakes. 

Dinner in Paris at Les Papilles (Michelin rated)

Wednesday – 

Paris sight-seeing: The Musée Carnavalet and Paris Night Tour in a vintage Citroën. 

Breakfast in Le Marais 

Lunch at L’as du Fallafel

Dinner at Les Epiciers

Thursday – 

Champagne Tour to Épernay (Moet & Chandon + others) and Shopping

Dinner at AirBnb

Friday – 

Paris sight-seeing: Louvre Museum, Palais Royal

Breakfast to-go from Bertrand’s (B’s) and eat on the Seine

Lunch at Les Deux Magots

Dinner at Trois Fois Plus de Piment

Saturday – 

Day trip to Chartres

Lunch at Cafe Bleu

Dinner in Paris at L’Ange 20

Sunday – 

Paris sight-seeing: Montmartre and Sacré-Cœur, Galeries Lafayette

Breakfast in Montmartre

Lunch at FTG (Frenchie To Go)

Dinner at Pee and Bee 

Monday – Depart Paris -> Washington D.C. -> San Antonio

Where to Eat

La Jacobine – This is our third time here and it never disappoints! It’s perfect any time, but especially that first night in Paris when you’re just a little tired but so excited to be there. La Jacobine is cozy and friendly with absolutely delicious food. They still have my favorite escargot. Eating here is like eating at your French grandmother’s house where she serves all your favorite dishes. 

Caveau du Palais – We hadn’t planned on eating here but when we walked through La Place Dauphine and saw it, we decided to give it a try. They have a beautiful outdoor area overlooking the square for the full French experience. The food was also really good (I had the octopus and it was delicious) plus they have nice wines by the glass.

Le Bistrot des Carmes (Rouen) – On our day trip to Rouen, we had lunch here under the shade trees in a lively square. I had a toasty sandwich with ham and feta that was really yummy. It’s a nice stop for a casual and filling lunch.

Dame Cakes (Rouen) – After walking off lunch a bit, head to Dame Cakes for dessert. They have a colorful assortment of all kinds of cakes, cookies, and pies in a feminine tea room setting. We sat in the outdoor courtyard in the back and enjoyed an orange cake and fresh squeezed juice.

Les Papilles – Back in Paris, we had dinner at this Michelin rated restaurant. I loved the experience from start to finish. As a wine shop, you have the opportunity to select your bottle from the beautifully curated shelves. Definitely do this! It’s a lot of fun. Then the food comes out and it’s a treat for all senses. The menu is pre-determined so go with an open mind and just enjoy what the chef has prepared. We loved the zucchini soup and braised beef. A cheese course of blue cheese and a stewed prune followed by panna cotta left us absolutely stuffed – in a good way. I highly recommend this place!

L’as du Fallafel – This place is worth the wait! You’ll see people lined up down the street for takeaway fallafel pita sandwiches. The shorter line is for those willing to eat inside. We ate here once before and came back for our fallafel fix! It’s so good and perfect for a casual lunch.

Les Epiciers – If you’re craving an amazing charcuterie dinner, this place is for you! We loved sitting outside and nibbling our way through dinner. They make one of the best boards I’ve ever had. Allow for a lot of extra time and just sip your wine. After a certain point, they close the street to vehicles and bring out more tables. Les Epiciers also has a couple of Vietnamese offerings on the menu. I loved it here and want to come back!

Bertrand’s (B’s) – This was our little neighborhood boulangerie and had the best croissants we had on the entire trip. We opted for takeaway so that we could eat it on the Seine, but they also have outdoor tables if you want that morning cafe vibe. The pain au chocolat here was amazing! 

Les Deux Magots – This place is a classic and just a fun experience. Eating outside is always fun but be sure to check out the interior, too. It dates back to 1812 but was moved to its current location in 1873, and it has been a Paris landmark ever since. Hemingway and Picasso both dined here. We enjoy lunch here when the weather is nice and we sit at one of the many quintessentially Parisian chairs overlooking the street. 

Trois Fois Plus de Piment – If you need a break from cafe food and you love a great noodle bowl, go here! They’re known for having the best noodles in Paris and I would have to agree. We loved it! There are 5 spice levels, but don’t go crazy. The level 1 is very hot, even to my spice loving husband. 

Cafe Bleu (Chartres) – Try to get an outdoor table with views of the cathedral. This little cafe had by far the best croque monsieur I’ve ever had. We enjoyed a leisurely lunch with rose under a shady umbrella. The staff is really friendly and you’ll be surrounded by locals. It’s definitely one of my favorite cafes from our day trips.

L’Ange 20 – Another absolute favorite! This is our fourth time dining here and we can’t get enough. Paul especially loves being able to see into the kitchen and watch the chef in action. The food is incredible and probably deserves a Michelin rating. We had chicken gizzards for the first time and they were amazing! The prawns, duck, and lamb were all exquisite. At L’Ange 20, everyone does a little bit of everything. Your waiter will also act as host and reservation taker. The bartender makes drinks and delivers food. Even the chef emerges to deliver plates to patrons. You’ll love the lively and intimate atmosphere plus the funky decor. It’s a really fun place to have a nice dinner in Paris. 

FTG (Frenchie To Go) – This concept was started by the team at Frenchie, a Michelin starred restaurant that we almost made it to (next time!). During 2020, FTG was offering food to-go, hence the name, but has since expanded to a few seats. The menu is fun and funky and really good. They do an exceptional fried chicken, which hit the spot after all our walking through Montmartre. FTG is worth a visit!

Pee and Bee – This became our little neighborhood favorite. If we lived in Paris, we would come here at least 1-2 times per month. Our first time here was just for cocktails but we came back for dinner. They have two things on the menu – pizza and burgers. Pee and Bee is short for Positano and Brooklyn. We had a pizza with a giant slab of burrata right in the middle with a bottle of red wine. It doesn’t get any better than that. The staff here is also really nice and the street views make it easy to stay awhile.

Where to Stay

We opted to stay in an AirBnb by Notre Dame. Our apartment was one block from the Seine and in a great location! It also had a large outdoor terrace that we enjoyed having wine on every evening. Having outdoor space is such a joy when we travel, and Paul likes the option of cooking with local ingredients. The apartment had enough space for us to relax in and we slept really well. The street is quiet and the owner is very kind and accommodating. You can view and book it here.

Where to Play 

Luxembourg Gardens – I love this beautiful park. Having a simple takeaway sandwich lunch on our first day was really just the best. My favorite part is watching the little wooden sailboats in the big fountain.

Notre Dame – The reconstruction efforts are still ongoing so you can’t get too close. But they’ve done a nice job creating an outdoor exhibit showing the timeline from the fire until now. She’s still beautiful of course.

Musée de l’Orangerie – This was our first time at this museum and I wish we’d done it sooner! It ended up being one of my all-time favorite museums. Monet’s Water Lilies are extraordinary! Take your time and really just sit with them for a while. 

Eiffel Tower – We’ve passed by her many times, taken numerous photos when she sparkles at night, and even had a nice little nap on the grass beneath her, but we’ve never actually taken the lift up. This was worth doing, especially now with fewer crowds. We didn’t pay to go all the way to the top. The best views of the city are from the second deck. Once you go all the way up it becomes difficult to recognize all the landmarks. Watch my Instagram Reels here to see the views (and without the tourists)!

The Musée Carnavalet – Another wonderful museum, especially if you’re a history buff! It just reopened after a major renovation and is worth a visit. Plan to spend a good long morning here as there is just so much to see. The museum takes up two large former mansions, so in addition to the interesting artifacts on display, the building itself is quite stunning. You can grab a bite of lunch at the cafe here too.

Paris Night Tour in a vintage Citroën – If you’ve never done this kind of tour, you absolutely must! We had loads of fun from the back of our roll-top circa 1980 2CV Citroën. Our driver really knew all the best hidden spots for amazing views of Paris’ most famous landmarks. He took us to places we never would have been on our own. The sun was setting during our tour and by the end we finished with a sparkling night view of the Eiffel Tower. Champagne was also included, which made it extra fun. Read even more about our experience in this post!

Champagne Tour to Épernay – This is a full day tour with a driver and tour guide. We visited 3 champagne houses and it included lunch. The first champagne house was Moët & Chandon, a remarkably stunning property and of course the granddaddy of them all. The tour was interesting, especially going down into the 20+ miles of chilly caves full of champagne. At the end you’re served a glass of champagne, so I wouldn’t really call this a tasting, but the experience was worth it. Our second stop was with a much smaller champagne producer for a champagne paired lunch. Our final stop included a medium size producer with a tour of the facilities and multi-glass tasting. Overall I enjoyed this tour, but I think we’ve been on too many wine tours at this point. I thought one of the best parts of the day was a stop we made at a hillside park with incredible views. Sparkling rose was served and the weather was perfect! Read even more about our experience in this post!

Louvre Museum – Gotta go here! It’s massive and can be overwhelming so prioritize what you want to see the most. The Mona Lisa is here and worth a look if you’ve never seen her before. My tip is to see her first then work your way through the remainder of what you want to see. She can get crowded, although right now the museum wasn’t full of people. I made a quick highlights video of my favorite Louvre exhibits on Instagram Reels – view it here!

Palais Royal – This place was the home to French royals until the Palace of Versailles was built. Now you can visit the black and white columned courtyard and gardens for photos in what has become one of the symbols of Paris.

Sacré-Cœur – We visited on Sunday and happened to arrive just before mass was starting. Seeing mass in Sacré-Cœur is an amazing experience as the sounds of the nuns singing fills the entire space. It sits on a hill with sweeping views of the city, and should be one of your stops when exploring Montmartre. Check out my Reels video here!

Galeries Lafayette – For more unbelievable views of Paris, head over to Galeries Lafayette and go to the roof. But first, take in this massive multi-story department store. It’s stunning in every way, and makes shopping seem so much more whimsical and fun. On the roof you’ll have unobstructed views of the Eiffel Tower, making it a great spot to catch your breath or snap some photos. 

I will be sharing a separate post detailing our day trips to Rouen and Chartres soon. Stay tuned for those!

What are your favorite places to visit in Paris? 

Thank you so much for reading! I hope this post helps you to plan your own Paris itinerary. 

Happy travels!

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xo – Erin

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