Ageratum Bougainvillea Bouncing Bet Chinese Trumpet Creeper Chrysanthesums Clerodendrum 'Ugandense' Coral Vine Cosmos Crapemyrtle Daisy Dianthus Duranta (Sky Flower) Dwarf Ruellia Esperanza Firebush Firespike Flax Garlic Chive Gloriosa Daisy Hibiscus Horsemint

Hummingbird Bush John Fanick's Phlox Katie Dwarf Ruellia Knockout Rose Lantana Lantana Denholm White Lantana Radiation Lantana - Variegated Larkspur Mexican Butterfly Weed Mexican Sunflower Milkweed Mistflowers Okra Pentas Periwinkle Petunia Philipine Violet Pincushion Flower Pink Bush Morning Glory Plumbago

Pride Of Barbados Purple Coneflower Red Shrimp Plant Salvia Salvia coccina Salvia regla Speedwell Spider Flower St. Augustine-Ginger Variegated Sunflower Sweet Autumn Clematis Texas Kidneywood Thryallis Toadflax Turk's Cap Verbena Vitex White Althea White Bush Morning Glory White Ruellia Yellow Rose Zinnia

 

It is easy to increase the number and variety of butterflies in your yard. Simply grow the plants the caterpillars like to eat, and plants that adult butterflies feed on! We provide great charts with pictures of plants that butterflies are attracted to (nectar/ food plants) and charts of caterpillar food plants (host plants). Several books are available at your local bookstore with butterfly plant lists and garden plans. Plants with varying blooming cycles can be placed together to keep your garden full of activity throughout the growing season. CLICK TO READ MORE OF OUR ARTICLE ON CREATING A BUTTERFLY GARDEN.

Butterfly Host Plants are important when you create your butterfly garden to provide a site for the butterfly to lay eggs and also food source for the emerging caterpillar. Be prepared for heavy munching on your host plants!

Because tiny caterpillars cannot travel far to find their own food, the female butterfly locates and lays her eggs on only the type of plant that the caterpillar can use as food. Most species of caterpillars are particular about the type of plants they can eat. If the egg was not placed on the correct plant, the caterpillar hatching from that egg will not survive. Many gardeners do not like to see plants in their gardens that have been chewed on by bugs. To avoid this, you may want to locate your butterfly host plants in areas that are not highly visible, but still a short distance from the butterfly nectar plants. If you do not provide host plants, you will have fewer butterflies.

Many native trees and other plants found in and around our yards are host plants for caterpillars. There are a variety of plants that can be included in a butterfly garden that are excellent host plants.

 

Butterfly Nectar/ Food Plants

	Below is a list of favorite nectar plants that will bring enjoyment to both the gardener and the butterfly!      Creating a Butterfly Garden involves planning your garden to attract, retain, and encourage butterfly populations to visit. You should select a variety of nectar-producing plants with the goal of providing flowers in bloom throughout the season. This will encourage a continuous succession of new visitors to your butterfly garden. It is especially important to have flowers in mid to late summer, when most butterflies are active. Flowers with multiple florets that produce abundant nectar are ideal. Butterfly Bush and Butterfly Weed are some of the most popular flowers used by butterfly gardeners.      For best results, plant your butterfly garden in full sun and plant the tallest flowers behind the shorter ones--so you'll be able to see all the flowers and butterflies that appear in your garden. It's important to refrain from the use of chemical insecticides, which will kill the butterflies you attract.	You can add a Butterfly Feeder to your garden to compliment your nectar plants

  

Butterfly Shrubs and Trees Abelia, glossy (Abelia) Autumn olive (Elaegnus umbellata) Buckeye (Aesculus parviflora; A. pavia) Buddleia (Buddleia davidii) Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) Blueberry (Vaccinium species) Hawthorn (Crataegus species) Mock orange (Philadelphus species) New Jersey tea (Canothus americanus) Pear (Pyrus communis) Plum (Prunus species) Privet (Ligustrum spp.) Redbud (Cercis) Rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) Silverling (Baccharis species) Spiraea (Spiraea species) Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) Viburnum (Viburnum species)   Butterfly Flowers: Annuals Cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus) Globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) Impatiens (Impatiens wallerana) Marigold, French (Tagetes patula) Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia species) Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) Sunflower (Helianthus species) Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota) Verbena (Verbena species) Zinnia (Zinnia elegans)

Wildflowers for Butterflies Butterfly weed (A. tuberosa) Coneflowers (Echinacea spp.) Ironweed (Vernonia spp.) Milkweeds (Asclepias spp.) New England asters (Aster novae-anglicae) Spearmint (Mentha spicata) Thistles (Centaurea spp. and Cirsium spp.) Verbena (Verbena spp.) Butterfly Flowers: Perennials Ageratum (Ageratum) Aster (Aster species) Bee-balm (Monarda didyma) Black-eyed susan (Rudbeckia species) Boltonia (Boltonia asteroides) Bugle (Ajuga reptans) Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) Coreopsis (Coreopsis species) Daisy, Shasta (Chrysanthemum maximum) Daylily (Hemerocallis species) False indigo (Baptisia australis) Gayfeather (Liatris species) Goldenrod (Solidago species) Hibiscus (Hibiscus species) Hollyhock (Althaea rosea) Ironweed (Vernonia species) Lantana (Lantana camara, L. species) Leadplant (Amorpha fruticosa) Lobelia (Lobelia cardinalis) Milkweed (Asclepias species) Mountain mint (Pycnanthemum species) Passion Flower (Passiflora species) Phlox (Phlox paniculata, P. carolina) Sage (Salvia leucantha; Salvia species) Sedum (Sedum species) Verbena (Verbena species) Yarrow (Achillea species)      Other Wildflowers: Some weedy wildflowers are not appropriate for formal garden settings, but could be used in a wild patch: Milkweed (Asclepias species), dogbane, Goldenrod (Solidago species), Ironweed (Vernonia spp.), Joe-pye weed (Eupatorium fistulosum), nettles, and Thistles (Cirsium species)

A butterfly garden is an easy way to both see more butterflies and to contribute towards their conservation, since many natural butterfly habitats have been lost to urbanization and other development. It is easy to increase the number and variety of butterflies in your yard. Simply grow the plants the caterpillars like to eat, and plants that adult butterflies feed on! We provide great charts with pictures of plants that butterflies are attracted to (nectar/ food plants) and charts of caterpillar food plants (host plants). Several books are available at your local bookstore with butterfly plant lists and garden plans. Plants with varying blooming cycles can be placed together to keep your garden full of activity throughout the growing season.

Butterfly gardens can be any size - a window box, part of your landscaped yard, or even a wild untended area on your property. When planning your butterfly garden, the following pointers will help. Learn the common butterfly species in your vicinity and include both their adult nectar plants and caterpillar food plants in the garden. Adult butterflies will visit for a longer period if they find plants to lay their eggs on. Patches of plants that Flower at the same time are more attractive to butterflies than a single plant with a few flowers. If you can let your lawn include some dandelions and clovers, you will see even more butterflies. Try to avoid or minimize the use of insecticides and herbicides. Plant your flowers in sunny places and provide some rocks or stone walls where they can "bask" in the morning to warm up. Also provide a few sheltered areas, like shrubbery or brush piles to protect them from wind and rain, and provide caterpillars a nice place to pupate. Butterfly Houses have slots the ideal size for keeping birds out while giving butterflies protection from the wind and weather, and are beautiful garden decorations. By having a nectar source close by, butterflies may be more likely to visit your butterfly house and garden. Maintaining a damp, slightly salty area in the yard may also help attract groups of butterflies. You can prolong the butterfly's stay in your garden and draw in others by providing both the food and shelter they need.

Butterflies are easy and fun to watch, so make sure you also plan a good place to watch the butterflies visiting your butterfly gardens. They have many interesting behaviors you will want to observe. For example, after rain you might see them "puddling," or sucking fluids from wet soil to obtain water and salts. On cool sunny mornings, they may bask on a rock to warm their bodies before flight. Males can be territorial and chase other males away. Females often have elaborate routines for choosing where to lay their eggs. If during your observation you notice you are missing a species you'd really like to see, include its favorite plant in your butterfly gardens next year! By creating a butterfly garden, you will not only create a natural habitat for butterflies but also for birds and other wild animals, which contributes to preserving our natural heritage.

Courtesy of David Cappaert

MORE BUTTERFLY GARDEN ARTICLES

 

It is important to know which adult butterflies are found in your area. This will help you determine the Butterfly Nectar Plants and Butterfly Host Plants you will want to plant when creating your butterfly garden.

 

Butterflies are among the most beautiful insects on earth---and one of the few insects we desire to see in our Flower gardens! Their colorful wings add a decorator's touch to our gardens as they flutter from Flower to Flower in search for nectar. Most gardeners wish to attract more butterflies to their property and thus, butterfly gardening is becoming a popular summer hobby.
   Attracting butterflies to your garden involves essentially two things: (1) planting the right flowers in the right place, and (2) refraining from the use of chemical insecticides. To attract more species of butterflies, you could add to the butterfly garden a mud puddle, a bowl of rotting fruit, and/or mammal manure. With or without these additional lures, however, many butterflies will be enticed to visit a garden that provides desirable nectar sources which are not poisoned with insecticides.
   The location of your property plays a role in determining how many butterfly species might visit your garden for Flower nectar. Some species of butterflies prefer open areas while others elect to reside near wet meadows or deciduous forests. Thus, a person living in an open rural area, near a stream or swamp, and adjacent to a deciduous forest will likely attract more species of butterflies to his or her garden than will a city dweller.
   The best position for a butterfly garden is in full sun. Butterflies are cold-blooded insects that can only fly well when their body temperatures are above 70 degrees F. You have probably noticed that butterfly activity is limited on cool, cloudy days and increased on warm, sunny days. Without warmth, butterflies are physically unable to fly.
   It is advisable to plant the butterfly garden in a location that is sheltered from the wind. Wind currents make flight maneuver difficult for butterflies and require the expenditure of extra energy as they try to feed, mate, and lay eggs. A wind break can be provided by simply planting evergreens to protect the garden from prevailing winds.
   When deciding on the plants to incorporate into your butterfly garden, choose a mixture of annuals and perennials. Annuals bloom all summer but must be replanted every spring (after the last frost). Perennials bloom year after year from the same roots but their blooming periods are typically limited to a few weeks or months.
   To enable the sight of most of the flowers (and butterflies) in your garden, plant the shortest flowers in front and the tallest ones in the back. Plant Flower species in masses as butterflies seem to choose those flowers that are most abundant. Being equipped with a highly sensitive sense of smell, butterflies are able to identify clusters of nectar flowers from quite a distance.
   Across the United States, there seems to be little consensus on the Flower color or Flower species that most attracts butterflies. Some experts claim that butterflies prefer purple, lavender, and pink flowers. Others proclaim red, yellow, and blue blossoms to be the color preference of nectar-seeking butterflies. Some butterfly gardeners insist that Lantana is an excellent butterfly-attracting plant while others insist that it is not.
   It is likely the case that different species of butterflies show a preference for different species of flowers. And since different species of butterflies inhabit different regions of the U.S., different flowers may be utilized for nectar in different regions.
   The selection of flowers offered as nectar sources also plays a role in what the butterflies choose as nectar sources. If a garden includes butterfly bushes, Mexican Sunflowers, and purple coneflowers, you will likely find most of the feeding butterflies on these flowers. If hungry butterflies do not have the option of feeding on butterfly bushes, Mexican Sunflowers, and purple coneflowers though, they will settle for something less desirable just to get their hunger satisfied.
   Though avid North American butterfly gardeners may disagree on many aspects of butterfly gardening, they tend to agree that every butterfly garden should include butterfly bushes (Buddleia davidii). Throughout the United States, the flowers of butterfly bush prove to be irresistable to many species of butterflies. Butterfly bushes grow 4' to 12' high, depending upon the variety chosen. Blooming mid July through frost, their fragrant Flower spikes may be white, lavender, pink, or purple.
   Among the best perennials for attracting butterflies to the garden for feeding are butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), Stoke's aster (Stokesia laevis), tickseed (Coreopsis), lavender (Lavandula), blanket Flower (Gaillardia aristata, Gaillardia grandiflora)), Joe-Pye weed (Eupatorium purpureum), and pincushion Flower (Scabiosa columbaria). Other perennials utilized as butterfly nectar sources include black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), dame's rocket (Hesperis matrolalis), hardy ageratum (Eupatorium coelestinum), heliopsis (Heliopsis helianthoides), ornamental oregano (Origanum lacvigatum), pinks (Dianthus), showy stonecrop (Sedum spectabile),  beebalm (Monarda didyma), goldenrod (Solidago), red valerian (Centranthus), daylily (Hemerocallis), hyssop (Hyssopus), Phlox, and Aster.
   To ensure the availability of nectar sources throughout the summer, long-blooming annuals should be planted between the perennials you choose for planting. Zinnia, tropical milkweed, Mexican Sunflower,  cosmos, verbena, lantana, pentas, strawflower, and heliotrope are good annual choices for the butterfly garden. Experiment with different Flower colors to determine what the butterflies in your area seem to prefer.
   Just by planting the right flowers in the right place, you will likely attract many species of butterflies to your garden. Amidst these butterflies will probably be Monarchs, Swallowtails, Painted Ladies, Red Admirals, Fritillaries, Hairstreaks, Coppers, and Crescents.
   While Flower nectar is the chief food source for most butterflies, a few butterfly species prefer to feast on rotting fruit, mud, and/or mammal manure. Red Admirals, Red-spotted Purples, Commas, and Mourning Cloaks are among those butterflies that sometimes dine on rotting fruit. Spring Azures, Eastern Tailed Blues, Sulphurs, and Swallowtails are known to extract nutrients from mud. Viceroys, Red Admirals, Meadow Fritillaries, and other butterfly species periodically feast on mammal manure.
   Butterflies add beauty to our world and fascinate people of every age. Entice butterflies to visit your own back yard by planting the flowers that most appeal to them. Enjoy your summer hobby of  butterfly gardening!

Introduction

There's something magical about the way that ugly little caterpillars can transform themselves into free-spirited butterflies. Butterflies go where they please, and they please where they go! If you would like to significantly increase the chance that butterflies will visit your yard, then butterfly gardening is for you. There are many ways to restore or improve natural butterfly habitats, or to create new ones by designing and creating butterfly gardens. Butterfly gardens can be created in window boxes, small Flower beds, entire backyards, vacant lots, parks, and even indoor greenhouses.

 

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Planning a Butterfly Garden

If you are contemplating the construction of a butterfly garden, take a few moments to assess your resources. How much time are you willing (and able) to invest in planting and maintaining your garden? How much money do you want to spend? Is the garden intended to be a formal or informal one? Are you going to provide butterfly nectar plants, caterpillar food plants, or both? How are you going to deal with pest problems without pesticides? Are you willing to discourage insect-feeding birds (no nest boxes or berry bushes)? The answers to these questions will help you determine the size and scope of your butterfly garden.

Butterfly gardens don't have to be big to be useful.  Even planters of flowers in urban and suburban settings can help feed hungry transient butterflies.

Step 1 - A Butterfly Survey. The first step in planning a butterfly garden is to conduct a butterfly survey for your area. You should plan on spending at least 4 or 5 hours a day (between mid-morning and early afternoon) on at least three warm, sunny days to determine the status of butterflies in your area. You will find binoculars or a net (for capture and release), a field guide, and a notebook useful. In your notebook record the butterfly species you see and their local nectaring choices.  Also inspect the site closely to determine what types of wildlife and insect life already live there. Try to disrupt the natural environment as little as possible.

Step 2 - Site Selection. The best site for a butterfly garden is one that is sunny (for at least 5-6 hours each day), calm (protected by a sheltering windbreak), and relatively undisturbed (only occasional visits and disturbances by humans). A water supply is also a valuable consideration. Keep this in mind: the more natural the area the greater the number and diversity of butterflies attracted.

Here is a good example of a small butterfly garden: it has a southern exposure, a windbreak (building) and a nice assortment of plants.

Determine what type of soil you have. Is it sandy, clay, wetland, well-drained, or very dry? This is very important to know when you select the plants.  It's a good idea to have the soil tested. This will provide you with valuable insight into the chemical makeup and condition (texture) of your soil. The soil testing lab will gladly provide you with suggestions for improving soil fertility and drainage, if needed.

What types of trees are in the area? This is important since most moth larvae eat tree leaves; leaves are also the food plant for some of the swallowtails and the mourningcloak.  Some trees also produce flowers attractive to adult butterflies.

Step 3 - Choosing Your Plants. Successful butterfly gardens incorporate two different types of plants (from the butterfly perspective, that is) - larval food plants and adult nectar plants. Larval food plants are those on which the eggs are laid and the caterpillars feed. Nectar plants provide nourishment for the adult butterflies. While it is possible to design a butterfly garden with only nectar plants, the number of butterflies visiting these gardens will be lower than those gardens that incorporate larval food plants. When you include larval food plants you give the butterflies a reason to "stick around" for longer periods of time by making it possible for them to mate and reproduce there, as well as get a good meal!

Generally speaking, the best butterfly nectar plants are those that are sunloving, purple, pink, yellow or white in color, and single-flowered rather than double flowered. Butterflies will seek nectar from many types of plants: ground covers (clover, alfalfa, and periwinkle), annuals (marigolds, petunias, verbena, and zinnia), perennials (butterfly weed, coneflowers, daisies, phlox, and many others), shrubs (azalea, butterfly bush, and lilac), and trees (plum, pear, and cherry).

You will also need to decide whether you want to use exotic (non-native) plants, native plants, or a mixture of both in your garden.  If you are looking for information on the native vs. non-native status of a plant, check our Planting Guide or visit the National Wildlife Federation's NativePlants Guide website.  Although there are many exciting exotic plants that attract butterflies, there are many benefits to using only native plants in your garden.  For example, they are likely to be better adapted to your specific local conditions, probably will require less watering, will not escape the garden and become invasive, and probably benefit wildlife more.

Obtaining plants for your garden can be accomplished by several means, and the method you choose will be determined by how fast you want to get your garden established and by how money you have to spend!

 

SOURCE	Pros	Cons	Tips
potted plants (nursery stock)	biggest plants, fastest results	most expensive method	buy plants at end of season sales; buy most plants from local sources and use mail-order sources to get rarer varieties only
divisions from established plants (transplants)	fast results	need to find a willing source	check to see if any garden clubs/wildflower groups in your area run plant exchanges; let friends and neighbors know you'll take surplus plants as they thin their gardens each spring or fall
cuttings from established plants	inexpensive or free	need to find a willing source; relatively time consuming	ask friends and neighbors if you can take cuttings from some of their plants
grow from seed	inexpensive (sometimes free)	longer time to establishment and sizeable plants	start seeds indoors in early spring; or, better yet - start seeds in special garden area in midsummer and transplant young plants to permanent locations that fall or the following spring; ask friends and neighbors if you can take seeds from some of their plants

There are four basic guiding principles in arranging your chosen plants: (1) place shorter plants in the front (or outside edges) and taller plants in the back (or center); (2) place larval food plants in hidden and less obvious areas; (3) plant in large groups of one color rather than single plants of different colors; and (4) plan for a continuous bloom through the entire growing season with spring, summer, and fall blooming plants. Before you put any plants in the ground, however, sit down and draw a sketch or two - remembering to consider sun, wind, and access to shelter and water. Only after considering all the possibilities is it time to visit the nursery!

Lone flowers are generally not very attractive to butterflies!

Butterflies can more easily find large, colorful plantings of flowers.

While it is often suggested that flowers be planted in clumps of the same types, we have found, from experience, that broadcasting a wide variety of seeds will also work. Think of it as a "Flower prairie." For one site, I purchased very inexpensive, good nectar Flower seeds and added some tomato, carrot, parsley and dill seeds. They were then mixed one part seeds to three parts sand and broadcast into a sunny area that had been prepared. This Flower prairie attracted many butterflies, but wasn't very successful in feeding the caterpillars. The larval food plants should be separate from the nectar sources. In some cases, the larval food plants should not be clumped together. The monarch eggs and larvae I have gathered in the wild are found more often on solitary plants rather than plants that are clumped together. There was a field filled with milkweed near where I lived, yet I gathered more eggs and larvae off the dozen plants on a nearby corner. On the other hand, larvae of the painted lady seem to be found more often when the thistles are clumped rather than solitary.

Step 4 - The Finishing Touches. Including any of the following items will improve the attractancy of your garden to butterflies: (1) damp spots or shallow puddles (for drinking); (2) large field stones (for basking); (3) pieces of fruit or a butterfly feeder (for supplemental nectaring); and (4) butterfly hibernation boxes (for overwintering). And don't forget, avoid the use of pesticides in and around your butterfly garden!

Butterflies love to sun themselves by sitting on rocks, so be sure to include some in your butterfly garden.

Hibernation boxes.  Many people wonder if these birdhouse-like boxes really work.  The truth is butterflies are not very likely to use them.  The boxes will get used by other insects and spiders, but generally not butterflies.  Why is this?  Well first of all, there are very few butterfly species that overwinter as adults.  Monarchs do (but they migrate to overwintering sites) and so do some brush-footed butterflies such as mourningcloaks, painted ladies, red admirals, and other anglewings.  However, the nymphalid butterflies are woodland inhabitants and they seem to prefer more natural overwintering quarters -- therefore you are more likely to provide shelter for these butterflies by building a lob-cabin style pile of 1-2" sticks topped with canvas and sod that is located along the edge of a woodlot, than with an expensive butterfly house.  Admittedly, a highly decorated butterfly house really looks great in a butterfly garden (along with butterfly crossing signs), and even though it's very unlikely, it could get used - so go ahead and include one if you wish.

A butterfly house (hibernation box) is mainly a decorative feature, as it is not likely to be used by butterflies.

Add a Butterfly "Table".  In addition to nectar feeders, you can also supplement the diet of butterflies through the use of a butterfly table.  There are two different types of butterfly tables.  One type has a 1' x1' platform with about a dozen equally spaced pegs (nails driven through the "table" and blunted for safety).  The table top should be sloped (about 20-30 degrees) and placed so as to face south.  A ledge made from 1" x 1" wood will help to capture juices that run down the table after a rain shower.  Pieces of fruit (citrus, banana, apple, peach, nectarine, and/or plum) are placed on the pegs.  Periodically rotate the fruit to expose the juicy side, and when the fruit is completely dried and/or shriveled, replace it.  If ants become troublesome, place a ring of petroleum jelly or tanglefoot around the post that holds up the table.

Another type of table can be made from plastic PVC pipe.  Use a 5' piece of 2" diameter pipe for a post and at the top glue a 2" to 4" (or larger adapter).  Find a shallow container that will set into this holder.  Place pieces of fruit, or fruit juices, into the container.  If you use fruit juices place a plastic dish scrubby in the container for the butterflies to perch on while feeding.  Be sure to periodically clean and sterilize the dish and scrubby!

 

Attracting Butterflies to the Garden by by P.A. Opler and W.S. Cranshaw 1

 

Quick Facts... Many kinds of butterflies can be found in Colorado. Encourage butterflies by planning a butterfly garden. Butterflies seek out areas with food plants for the caterpillar stage. Adult butterflies also feed on fluids such as nectar from flowers. Butterfly visits increase when environmental needs are met. Gardening practices to attract and retain butterflies often differ from regular gardening practices. Dozens of butterfly species commonly occur along the Front Range and eastern Colorado and are a welcome garden addition for many people. Butterflies often appear to be just passing through, occasionally stopping for a drink of nectar. You can prolong the stay of these colorful insects and draw in others by providing the food and shelter they need. Planning the Butterfly Garden Make a yard more attractive to butterflies by providing the proper environment. Most important are food plants used by the immature stages (various caterpillars), food sources used by the adult butterflies, and physical environment. Most butterflies prefer some shelter from the high winds common along the Front Range. At the same time, they like open, sunny areas. Windbreak plantings or other means of sheltering the butterfly garden can help provide a suitable physical environment. Certain kinds of butterflies (mostly males) often can be seen on moist sand or mud collecting around puddles of water where they feed. The function of these "mud-puddle clubs" is not fully understood, but it is thought that the water contains dissolved minerals needed by the insects. Maintaining a damp, slightly salty area in the yard may attract groups of these butterflies. Adult female butterflies spend time searching for food plants required by the immature caterpillar stage. Most butterflies have specific host plants on which they develop. For example, caterpillars of the monarch butterfly develop only on milkweed, while the black swallowtail feeds only on parsley, dill and closely related plants. When females find the proper host plant, they may lay eggs on it. Providing the necessary food plants for the developing caterpillars also allows production of a "native" population that can be observed in all stages of development. Most species, however, fly away as adult butterflies. Food for adult butterflies usually consists of sweet liquids, such as nectar from flowers, that provide energy. Some flowers contain more nectar, and are more attractive to butterflies. Often, specific types of flowers and Flower colors also are more attractive. Some species feed on honeydew (produced by aphids), plant sap, rotting fruit and even bird dung. When planning a garden, create a large patch of a Flower species to attract and retain butterflies. Consider flowers that bloom in sequence. This is particularly important during summer when Flower visiting by butterflies is most frequent. Flowers and flowering shrubs that might be good choices for an eastern Colorado butterfly garden are included in Table 1.

Table 1: Some nectar-bearing plants commonly visited by butterflies.
Asters (Aster spp.) Bee balm (Monarda) Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) Butterfly plant (Asclepias tuberosa) Bush cinquefolia (Potentilla fruticosa) Cosmos (Cosmos spp.) Gaillardia (Gaillardia spp.) Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)	Marigold (Tagetes spp.) Ornamental thistles Rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus nauseosus) Sunflower (Helianthus spp.) Sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus) Verbena (Verbena spp.) Zinnias (Zinnia spp.)

 

Common butterflies in eastern Colorado and the foods they use are shown in Table 2. Include these food sources to encourage a steady flow of butterfly visitors. Common Conflicts Many of the most attractive nectar plants are commonly considered as "weeds" in other settings. Good examples are various thistles and dandelion, all highly attractive to several common butterflies. The well-manicured and tended garden discourages some butterfly species that develop on wild types of plants. (Note: Canada thistle is considered a noxious weed. Areas that have formed weed districts prohibit by law the culture of Canada thistle.) A few butterflies also develop on certain garden crops and may be pests if the vegetable is considered more desirable than the insects. The European cabbage butterfly (on broccoli, cabbage and other mustards) and the black swallowtail (on parsley and dill) are common garden inhabitants in Colorado. Use insecticides sparingly because most are not compatible with attracting and increasing the number of butterflies in a yard. Most garden insecticides can kill the caterpillar stages of the insects. Adult butterflies also can be killed by resting on insecticide-treated surfaces.

 

Table 2: Food used by common eastern Colorado butterflies and skippers.
Butterfly	Flight period	Caterpillar food	Common nectar plants, adult food
Black swallowtail (Papilio polyxenes)	April-September	Dill, parsley, fennel, carrot	Butterfly weed, alfalfa, thistle
Checkered skipper (Pyrgus communis)	April-October	Mallow, hollyhock	Verbena, dandelion, Canada thistle, aster
Checkered white (Pontia protodice)	April-November	Tumble mustard	Alfafa, mustards, bee balm
Clouded sulfur (Colias philodice)	April-November	Alfalfa, clover	Alfalfa, phlox, rabbitbrush, aster, marigold
Edwards fritillary (Speyeria edwardsii)	June-September	Nuttall's violet	Rabbitbrush, gaillardia, bee balm
European cabbage butterfly (Pieris rapae)	April-October	Broccoli, cabbage (mustard family)	Many
Gorgone checkerspot (Charidryas gorgone)	May-September	Sunflowers	White clover, dandelion, Canada thistle
Gray hairstreak (Strymon melinus)	May-October	Many	Many
Hackberry butterfly (Asterocampa celtis)	May-September	Hackberry	Rotting fruit, sap flows
Melissa blue (Lycaeides melissa)	April-October	Wild licorice, alfalfa, etc.	Bee balm, sweet clover
Monarch (Danaus plexippus)	June-October	Milkweed	Cosmos, Canada thistle, rabbitbrush, etc.
Mourning cloak (Nymphalis antiopa)	February-November	Willow, aspen, cottonwood, elm	Rabbitbrush, milkweed, sap
Orange sulfur (Colias eurytheme)	April-October	Alfalfa, vetch, pea	Alfalfa, marigold, zinnia
Painted Lady (Vanessa cardui)	April-October	Thistle, hollyhock, Sunflower	Grape hyacinth, cosmos, zinnia, alfalfa, many flowers
Silver-spotted skipper (Epargyreus clarus)	May-July	Wild licorice, locust, etc.	Lilac, dogbane, zinnia, sweet pea, Canada thistle
Two-tailed swallowtail (Papilio multicaudatus)	April-August	Green ash, chokecherry	Geranium, thistle, milkweed
Variegated fritillary (Euptoieta claudia)	April-October	Various, including pansy	Rabbitbrush, Canada thistle
Weidemeyer's admiral (Limentitis weidemeyerii)	June-September	Willow, aspen, cottonwood	Sap flows, snowberry, dung
Western tiger swallowtail (Papilio rutulus)	May-July	Willow, cottonwood, chokecherry	Zinnia, lilac, butterflybush, thistle, milkweed
Wood nymph (Cercyonis pegala)	June-August	Grasses	Rabbitbrush, clematis, Canada thistle

 

Some Common Colorado Butterflies
Figure 1: Black swallowtail.	Figure 2: Black swallowtail larvae. Early instar (left), later instar (right).
Figure 3: Two-tailed swallowtail.	Figure 4: Two-tailed swallowtail larvae. Early instar (left), later instar (right).
Figure 5: Monarch.	Figure 6: Monarch larva.	Figure 7: Mourning cloak.
Figure 8: Mourning cloak larva.	Figure 9: Common sulphur.	Figure 10: Common sulphur larva.
Figure 11: Variegated fritillary.	Figure 12: Variegated fritillary larva.

 

Go to top of this page. Updated Monday, June 25, 2007.

 

 

Butterflies of North America by State:

Alabama Butterflies	Nebraska Butterflies
Arizona Butterflies	Nevada Butterflies
Arkansas Butterflies	New Hampshire Butterflies
California Butterflies	New Jersey Butterflies
Colorado Butterflies	New Mexico Butterflies
Connecticut Butterflies	New York Butterflies
Delaware Butterflies	North Carolina Butterflies
Florida Butterflies	North Dakota Butterflies
Georgia Butterflies	Ohio Butterflies
Idaho Butterflies	Oklahoma Butterflies
Illinois Butterflies	Oregon Butterflies
Indiana Butterflies	Pennsylvania Butterflies
Iowa Butterflies	Rhode Island Butterflies
Kansas Butterflies	South Carolina Butterflies
Kentucky Butterflies	South Dakota Butterflies
Louisiana Butterflies	Tennessee Butterflies
Maine Butterflies	Texas Butterflies
Maryland Butterflies	Utah Butterflies
Massachusetts Butterflies	Vermont Butterflies
Michigan Butterflies	Virginia Butterflies
Minnesota Butterflies	Washington Butterflies
Mississippi Butterflies	West Virginia Butterflies
Missouri Butterflies	Wisconsin Butterflies
Montana Butterflies	Wyoming Butterflies

Attracting Butterflies to the Garden	Explore the steps involved in planning a butterfly garden. Lots of photos of butterflies at various stages of life. By Colorado State University.
Butterflies and Larval Food Plants	Nice chart by the University of California.
The Butterfly Garden	A forum for the discussion of plants that both attract and provide habitat for butterflies.
Butterfly Gardeners' Quarterly	A newsletter for gardeners and butterfly enthusiasts. Also has a list of books on butterfly gardening.
Butterfly Gardening in Containers	Short article by the Texas Agricultural Extension Service.
Caterpillar Hostplant Database	Database provided by the London Natural History Museum.
Garden Community	A Garden Directory over 100 Categories to choose from, including Butterfly Gardening! Plus free news group access for many garden groups, garden zone finder, books, magazines, articles, free pictures and more.
Gardening for Butterflies	Great article with pictures by The Young Entomologist's Society. Also butterfly and larval food plant lists.
How to Make Butterfly Gardens	By the University of Kentucky. Lots of pictures and a list of butterfly nectar preferences and larval food plants.
MonarchWatch Host Plants	Chart of butterfly caterpillars and their preferred host plants.
MonarchWatch Nectar Sources	Chart of nectar sources to attract butterflies to your garden!
North & South Butterfly Gardening	Butterfly gardening information for 4 different regions in Canada including differences in recommended host plants by area.
Washington Area Butterfly Gardening	General butterfly gardening information as well as specific information for Washington, Northern Virginia, District of Columbia and Maryland areas. Lots of helpful links.

 

BUTTERFLIES AND THEIR LARVAL FOODPLANTS

(Animation by Lisa Konrad)

Photographed and compiled by Peter J. Bryant (pjbryant@uci.edu) Department of Developmental and Cell Biology, University of California, Irvine, CA 92717

Butterflies can be attracted to your garden by providing suitable flowers from which they can obtain nectar. Most butterflies can utilize a wide variety of flowers, including those of many cultivated varieties, as nectar sources. However, a more critical need is for the plants which provide food for the larval (caterpillar) stages, and most spaccept only one or a few species of plants at this stage. If a butterfly is found near your area, you can probably attract it and increase its population by planting the correct foodplants for the caterpillars. Althoecies will ugh the caterpillars will feed on the leaves of these plants, the damage is usually minor and only temporary. Caterpillars of some species feed on plants which are usually considered weeds, and you can benefit populations of these species by not removing all of the weeds.

The following table lists the larval foodplants for most of the butterfly species and a few of the more interesting moths found in Orange County. Many of the listed plants are available from Tree of Life Nursery in San Juan Capistrano. A more extensive discussion of the biology of our local butterflies can be found in Getting into Butterflies by Larry Orsak.

(Animation by Lisa Konrad)

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COMMON NAME GENUS/SPECIES	IMAGE	FLIGHT PERIOD	FOODPLANT	GENUS/SPECIES
Pale swallowtail, Papilio eurymedon		Feb-June	Redberry	Rhamnus crocea
			Calif. coffeeberry	Rhamnus californica
			California lilac	Ceanothus sp.
			Holly-leafed cherry	Prunus ilicifolia
Tiger swallowtail, Papilio rutulus		Jan-Sept	California sycamore	Platanus racemosa
			Willow	Salix sp.
Anise swallowtail, Papilio zelicaon		Feb-Oct	Non-native: Wild anise	Foeniculum vulgare
			Natives:  Southern Tauschia Woolly-fruited Lomatium Common Lomatium Pacific Oenanthe	Tauschia arguta Lomatium dasycarpum Lomatium utriculatum Oenanthe sarmentosa
Giant swallowtail, Papilio cresphontes		Jun, Aug- Sep	Various citrus species, Rue.
Sara orange-tip, Anthocharis sara		Jan-June	Rock cress	Arabis sparsifolia
California dogface, Colias eurydice		Jan-Aug, Oct	False indigo	Amorpha californica
Orange Sulphur butterfly, Colias eurytheme		Feb-Oct	Alfalfa	Medicago sativa
Nicippe yellow, Eurema nicippe		July-Nov	Senna	Cassia tomentosa
Cloudless sulphur, Phoebis sennae		June-Nov	Senna	Cassia tomentosa
Harford's sulphur, Colias alexandra harfordii		Apr-June	Locoweed	Astragalus douglasii
Dainty dwarf sulfur, Nathalis iole		Apr-July, Oct-Nov	Beggar-ticks	Bidens pilosa
Common white, Pieris protodice		Mar-Oct	Mustard	Brassica
Cabbage white, Pieris rapae		Jan-Dec	Mustard	Brassica
Striated queen, Danaus gilippus			Milkweed	Sarcostemma hirtellum
			Milkweed	Sarcostemma cynanchoides
			Milkweed	Asclepias erosa
Monarch, Danaus plexippus			Milkweed	Asclepias spp.
Viceroy, Basilarchia archippus			Willow	Salix sp.
			Cottonwood	Populus sp.
Sylvan wood nymph, Cercyonis sthenele silvestris			Grasses
California ringlet, Coenonympha california			Grasses
			Cottonwood
California sister, Adelpha bredowii			Canyon oak	Quercus chrysolepis
Gabb's checkerspot, Chlosyne gabbii				Corethrogyne filaginifolia
				Haplopappus squarrosus
				Heterotheca grandiflora
Chalcedon checkerspot, Euphydryas chalcedona			Figwort	Scrophularia californica
			Monkey Flower	Mimulus aurantiacus
				Penstemon antirrhinoides
Wright's checkerspot, Chlosyne leanira			Indian paintbrush	Castilleja spp.
Quino checkerspot, Euphydryas editha			Plantain	Plantago erecta
West coast lady, Cynthia anabella			Cheeseweed	Malva parviflora
			Nettle	Urtica holosericea
Painted lady, Cynthia cardui			Cheeseweed	Malva parviflora
			Lupin	Lupinus albus
			Thistle	Cirsium spp.
			Dwarf nettle	Urtica urens
			Fiddleneck	Amsinckia spp.
Virginia lady, Cynthia virginiensis			Cudweed	Gnaphalium spp.
			Pussytoes	Antennaria spp.
			Sagebrush	Artemisia spp.
				Anaphalis margaritacea
Lorquin's admiral, Limenitis lorquini			Willow	Salix spp.
Mourning cloak, Nymphalis antiopa			Willow	Salix spp.
			Chinese elm	Ulmus sp.
Satyr, Polygonia satyrus			Nettle	Urtica holosericea
California Tortoiseshell, Nymphalis californica			California lilac	Ceanothus spp.
Buckeye, Precis coenia			Plantain	Plantago erecta
			Plantain	Plantago lanceolata
			Monkey Flower	Mimulus spp.
			Snapdragon	Antirrhinum sp.
Comstock's fritillary, Speyeria callipe comstocki			Violets	Viola pedunculata Viola quercetorum Viola purpurea
Red admiral, Vanessa atalanta			Nettle	Urtica holosericea
			Baby tears	Soleirolia soleirolii
Gulf fritillary, Agraulis vanillae			Passion-Flower vine	Passiflora spp.
Mormon metalmark, Apodemia mormo			Buckwheat	Eriogonum fasciculatum
Wright’s metalmark, Calephelis wrighti			Sweetbush	Bebbia juncea
Dusky metalmark, Calephelis nemesis			Bush Sunflower, Mule Fat	Encelia californica, Baccharis glutinosa
Purple hairstreak, Atlides halesus			Mistletoe	Phoradendron tomentosum
Western pygmy blue, Brephidium exilis			Saltbush	Atriplex sp.
			Goosefoot	Chenopodium sp.
			Tumbleweed	Salsola iberica
Bramble hairstreak, Callophrys dumetorum			Buckwheat	Eriogonum fasciculatum
			Deerweed	Lotus scoparius
Echo blue, Celastrina argiolus			California lilac	Ceanothus spp.
Southern blue, Glaucopsyche lygdamus			Deerweed	Lotus scoparius
Boisduval's hairstreak, Habrodais grunus			Canyon oak	Quercus chrysolepis
Nut-brown hairstreak, Satyrium saepium			Buck Brush	Ceanothus cuneatus
Reakirt's blue, Hemiargus isola alce			Mesquite	Prosopis sp.
Western elfin, Incisalia augustinus			Dodder	Cuscuta spp.
Marine blue, Leptotes marina			Leadwort	Plumbago sp.
Tailed copper, Lycaena arota			Gooseberry	Ribes californicum
Gorgon copper, Lycaena gorgon			Buckwheat	Eriogonum elongatum
Purplish copper, Lycaena helloides			Wild rhubarb	Rumex spp.
Bernardino blue, Philotes battoides			Buckwheat	Eriogonum fasciculatum
Sonora blue, Philotes sonorensis			Live forever	Dudleya lanceolata
Acmon blue, Plebejus acmon			Deerweed	Lotus scoparius
Trabuco blue, Plebejus icarioides			Bush Lupine	Lupinus excubitus var. hallii
			Buckwheat	Eriogonum fasciculatum
Sylvan hairstreak, Satyrium sylvinus			Willow	Salix spp.
Common hairstreak, Strymon melinus			Hibiscus	Hibiscus sp.
			Cheeseweed	Malva parviflora
			Hops	Humulus sp.
			False indigo	Amorpha
			Buckwheat	Eriogonum spp.
			Senna	Cassia sp.
Avalon hairstreak, Strymon avalona			Deerweed	Lotus scoparius
			Buckwheat	Eriogonum fasciculatum
Funereal duskywing, Erynnis funeralis			Deerweed	Lotus scoparius
Mournful duskywing, Erynnis trystis			Coast live oak	Quercus agrifolia
Large white skipper, Heliopetes ericetorum			Bush mallow	Malacothamnus fasciculatus
Juba skipper, Hesperia juba			Grasses
Fiery skipper, Hylephila phyleus			Bermuda grass	Cynodon dactylon
Rural skipper, Ochlodes agricola			Grasses
Woodland skipper, Ochlodes sylvanoides			Grasses
Wandering skipper, Panoquina panoquinoides			Salt grass	Distichlis spicata
Umber skipper, Paratrytone melane			Bermuda grass	Cynodon dactylon
Checkered skipper, Pyrgus albescens			Alkali mallow	Sida hederacea
Sandhill skipper, Polites sabuleti
	Salt grass
Distichlis spicata

 

--> Here are some possible sources of plants and seeds:

--> California Native Plant Society (Dan Sonster) (949) 768-0431
Theodore Payne Foundation (818) 768-1802
oon Mountain Wildflowers (805) 684-2565
Larner Seeds (415) 868-9407
S&S Seeds (Jody Miller, - Manager) ssseeds@silcom.com (805) 684-0436.

--> Other lepidopteran web sites

--> --> Orange County:
XERCES SOCIETY ANNUAL BUTTERFLY COUNT

--> --> California:
Birds and Butterflies of San Diego County
Butterflies of the San Gabriel Mountains
Current Butterfly Report for the Front Range of the San Gabriel Mountains
Garden Butterfly Report for the Pasadena-San Gabriel Valley Area
Lanaba

--> --> Other U.S.:
SE Arizona butterflies
The Moths of Southeastern Arizona
Northern Mexico butterflies
CATERPILLAR HOSTPLANTS DATABASE
Butterfly House at the Devonian Botanic Garden
The Butterfly WebSite Picture Gallery.
Butterfly WebSite Mario Maier Picture Gallery XX.
Wings of summer

--> --> Europe:
European butterflies
The butterflies starting page

--> --> General:
Endangered Butterflies

--> Return to Natural History of Orange County, California

A group of containers massed in a bright, sunny area can be very beautiful and also attract butterflies. Petunias, lobelia, and sweet alyssum have a wonderful scent as well as color. Other nectar flowers to consider are ageratum, cosmos, daylily, and rudbeckia daisies. Shrubs such as butterfly bush and hibiscus also grow well in containers, and vines such as wisteria, trumpet vine, or passion vine make a beautiful backdrop. The herbs fennel, dill and parsley will attract butterflies for feeding and serve as host plants for laying eggs. In shadier areas, on trellis ends, or in gazebos, consider using hanging baskets of impatiens.

An alternative food source for butterflies is a homemade feeder filled with a solution of 4 parts water to 1 part granulated sugar. Boil the solution for several minutes until sugar is dissolved, and then let cool. Serve the solution in a shallow container with an absorbent material such as paper towels saturated with the sugar solution. Bright yellow and orange kitchen scouring pads may be placed in the solution to attract butterflies and give them a resting place while they drink. Place the feeder among your nectar flowers on a post that's 4-6 inches higher than the tallest blooms. Extra solution can be stored in your refrigerator for up to a week.

Butterfly gardening can become more than just watching your garden visitors. You may find yourself keeping a journal of the different species that visit and the various plants they prefer. Your journal can lead to discoveries and the planting of new varieties to attract more of your favorites!

 

 

Basics of Butterfly Gardening
by Claire Hagen Dole

 

Many butterflies, such as swallowtails, are well adapted to urban and suburban life, finding habitat in nearby parks and undeveloped areas.  My motto, "If You Plant It, They Will Come," applies beautifully to your garden if you remember a few basic rules:
 

Location.  Find a sunny, sheltered spot where they can perch to feed and warm themselves.  Large rocks or a stone wall make great basking spots for these cold-blooded insects.  Afternoon sun will not only bring in lots of butterflies, but will provide glorious light for viewing and photographing them.  It's a plus if you can watch from your kitchen or living room window.

Water.  Male butterflies appreciate a patch of wet sand or dirt.  They sip salts and other minerals from the sand, a behavior known as puddling.  The minerals are passed on in a sperm packet during mating, to enrich the eggs.

Larval food plants.  While adult butterflies will sip nectar from a number of flowers, they are particular about where they will lay their eggs.  Many larval host plants aren't desirable in a small garden (nettle, thistle, willow), but there are exceptions.  Try fennel for the Anise Swallowtail; lupine for blues; hollyhocks and borage for the Painted Lady; and grasses for satyrs and skippers.  If you live near a park or wooded area, it may provide habitat for Mourning Cloaks, admirals, and tiger swallowtails, who will foray into your yard for nectar.  Caterpillars are voracious eaters; if they're consuming all the foliage on a plant, move some of them to another (same) plant.  Pick up a regional guide book for more complete host plant listings.

Nectar plants.  Fragrance and color will draw in a passing butterfly; plant in masses for best effect.  Good access to the nectar is important--showy double blooms and hybrids don't provide a good perching or feeding source.

Plenty of choices abound for perennials, so you can choose your favorites among the following:  aster, Shasta daisy, purple coneflower, globe thistle, daylily, scabiosa, goldenrod, phlox, dianthus, stonecrop (especially Sedum telephium 'Autumn Joy'), verbena, liatris, hollyhock, delphinium, nasturtium, musk mallow. Yarrow and Queen Anne's lace are popular with butterflies, but can be aggressive spreaders.

Reserve some space for colorful annuals like zinnia, marigold, calendula, alyssum, and cosmos.  And be sure to include herbs: fennel, oregano, lavender, bee balm, and sage.

You may want to include the aptly-named butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii).  This large shrub (up to 10 feet) is a magnet to butterflies.  In mild-winter areas, its delicate silver foliage adds a pleasing contrast to evergreens.  Cut back to about 18" in late winter; it will grow quickly!  In a small garden, stick to one of the dwarf varieties, which reach about five feet (Nanho blue, petite indigo and others). Buddleiais now considered an invasive plant in coastal areas.  Watch for and remove seedlings.  If you live near a natural area, plant an alternative such as native wild lilac (Ceanothus spp.).

Deadheading spent blossoms on Buddleia and flowers like marigold will encourage new blooms and prolong your garden's butterfly appeal.  If you can spare a corner out of the garden limelight, encourage dandelions and clover; these humble plants are attractive nectar sources.  Don't tidy up too much, either.  A few rotten apples left under your tree might entice a Red Admiral to stop and eat.  This striking butterfly supplements its diet with amino acids from decaying fruit, even animal scat. A brush or wood pile can give shelter to overwintering adults and larvae of several species.

No pesticides.  Butterflies are extremely susceptible to pesticides, including Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis).  Try to hand-pick pests.  The more habitat you provide for birds and beneficial insects (a patch of tall grass is choice), the less you will be troubled by infestations.

Shelter.  Where do butterflies go when it rains?  (You won't see many butterflies on cloudy days; they seem to sense when life-threatening rain is imminent.)  Look in the foliage of trees and shrubs, under eaves, in a brush or wood pile.  Don't tidy up too much in the fall; whether a butterfly overwinters as egg, caterpillar, chrysalis or adult, it needs a place to hibernate during the cold months.  Meadow grass harbors the tiny caterpillars of ringlets and satyrs.  The newly hatched larva makes itself a shelter (hibernaculum) by bending a grass blade together and fastening with silk.  Wait until spring to mow, or at least leave a patch untouched.  An undisturbed wood pile will shelter a diverse group of insects and small animals, including adult butterflies like anglewings.

When you begin watching the amazing, daily dramas in a backyard wildlife garden, you'll wonder at the appeal of resource-intensive, manicured lawns.  Skippers, bumblebees and hummingbirds know which garden they prefer: they'll flock to a yard full of colorful, nectar-rich flowers.  Put your lawn chair in a quiet spot and grab your camera!
 

 

Common North American Butterflies
and Their Host Plants

Monarch.  Photo by Tom Boyden.
 

Buckeye (Junonia coenia).  Brown and orange with large eyespots. Wingspan: 2-1/4". Originates in South or near California coast, and emigrates to most of U.S. during summer. Habitat: open, weedy areas. Host plants: plantain, verbena, snapdragon, monkeyflower. Likes to bask on open ground, visits puddles.

Cabbage White (Pieris rapae).  European; introduced to North America in 19th century.  Off-white with gray wingtip.  Wingspan: 2".  Highly adaptable and widespread.  Host plants: cabbage and other mustards, nasturtium.

Eastern Tiger Swallowtail (Papilio glaucus). Large, yellow butterfly with "tails" that frequents gardens throughout summer. Black vertical bands and wing margin. Wingspan: to 5-1/2". Range: eastern U.S. Host plants: willow, birch, black cherry, ash, tulip tree. Female lays eggs high in tree canopy. Related butterfly: Western Tiger Swallowtail (Papilio rutulus) is smaller (4"); occurs in western U.S. Host plants: willow, aspen, poplar, Oregon ash, bigleaf maple, sycamore.

Gray Hairstreak (Strymon melinus).  Widespread.  Gray with orange spots near hindwing tails. Wingspan: 1-1/4".  Habitat: suburbs, sunny disturbed areas. Host plants: many; prefer legumes and mallows, but also choose corn, strawberry, hops, sedum, buckwheat, cotton and others.

Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae).  Belongs to family of tropical longwings; not a true fritillary. Range: Southern U.S.  Orange with spotted brown border on hindwing. Wingspan: 2-3/4". Habitat: Fields, woods' edge, urban/suburban areas. Host plant: passionflower.

Monarch (Danaus plexippus). Probably the best-known butterfly in North America, the Monarch undertakes yearly migrations to overwintering sites in central Mexico (eastern Monarchs) or the California coast (western Monarchs). Orange with black margins (white-dotted) and black vein markings. Wingspan: 4". Habitat: gardens, open areas. Host plant: milkweed. Look-alike impostor: Viceroy, an admiral, has horizontal band across hindwing; wingspan 3-1/4".

Mourning Cloak (Nymphalis antiopa).  Large, dark brown with blue-spotted, yellow margin.  Glides through forest clearings; overwinters as adult so often seen early in season. Wingspan: 3". Widespread. Habitat: woods, streams, suburbs. Host plants: willow, elm, birch, hackberry, cottonwood.

Painted Lady (Vanessa cardui).  Most widely distributed butterfly in the world; undertakes seasonal emigrations in North America and Europe. Brown with orange markings and white wingtip. Wingspan: 2-1/2".  Habitat: fields, urban/suburban areas. Host plants: prefers thistle, but will eat over 100 plants, including mallow, hollyhock, borage, mint, Sunflower. Related butterflies: American Painted Lady, West Coast Lady.

Question Mark (Polygonia interrogationis).  Anglewing with "punctuation mark" on underside of hindwing. Range: Eastern U.S. Burnt orange with wide brown margin and dark spots down wings' center. Wingspan: 2-3/4". Habitat: woods, open sunny areas and streams. Host plants: nettle, elm, hackberry, hops. Overwinters as adult; attracted to tree sap. Related butterflies: Comma, Satyr, Zephyr.

Red Admiral (Vanessa atalanta). Widespread member of nymphalid family (related to Painted Lady, not admirals). Fast and flighty; likes to sip from tree sap and rotten fruit. Dark brown with orange band (vertically across forewing and along hingwing margin); white wingtip. Wingspan: 2-1/2". Habitat: fields, urban/suburban areas. Host plants: nettle, false nettle, pellitory.

Silver-spotted Skipper (Epargyreus clarus). Member of large super-family of skippers, a group of moth-like butterflies with fat, hairy bodies. Dark brown with band of dark-gold square spots. Underside of hindwing has broad silver band; forewing underside has gold band. Wingspan: 2". Holds wings at an angle while at rest. Widespread except for arid West. Habitat: open woods, parks, suburban gardens. Host plants: wisteria, locust, licorice, beans.

Spring Azure (Celestrina ladon).  Widespread; early spring butterfly.  Iridescent, powder blue with white border (male); black border (female).  Wingspan: 1".  Habitat: woods, nearby open areas.  Host plants: dogwood, viburnum, ceanothus, blueberry.  Larvae feed on buds and flowers; associate with ants.  Related butterflies: coppers; Silvery Blue; Eastern and Western Tailed Blues.

White Admiral (Limenitis arthemis ssp. arthemis).  Black with white band and blue chevrons along wing margin. Wingspan: 3". Range: Northeast U.S., Great Lakes. Habitat: edge of deciduous woods, open areas. Host plants: birch, willow, poplar, aspen.  Related butterflies: Red-spotted Purple (Limenitis arthemis ssp. astyanax) is lustrous blue-black with blue chevrons on wing margin. Range (eastern U.S.) overlaps with White Admiral, and the two subspecies interbreed, producing fertile hybrids. Red-spotted Purple larvae feed on willow, aspen, poplar, wild cherry, hawthorn, apple.
 

 

Zinnias:  Colorful, Butterfly-Approved

by Claire Hagen Dole

 

A Popular Flower

Grown any zinnias lately?  If so, you’re in good company.  These cheerful annuals are enjoying renewed popularity as more colorful, disease-resistant varieties appear on seed racks.  Zinnias are a natural for the butterfly garden, attracting many butterflies throughout their long blooming season.  Kids find zinnias quick to germinate and easy to grow.  And zinnias excel as cut flowers; their rigid stems hold long-lasting blossoms that don’t drop petals.

Native to Mexico and Central America, the genus Zinnia was named after Johann Gottfried Zinn, an eighteenth-century German botanist.  During the nineteenth century, European hybridizers worked on Zinnia elegans, a drab purplish wildflower, to develop brightly-colored double forms, such as dahlia-flowered zinnias.  The W. Atlee Burpee Company picked up the torch during the 1920s and introduced large cactus-flowered zinnias (named for their resemblance to cactus-flowered dahlias, not to cacti).

Recent introductions are making even bigger waves.  This year, Zinnia ‘Profusion Cherry’ and Z. ‘Profusion Orange’ were chosen as All-America Selections award-winners.  These bushy, single-flowered zinnias bloom for months, hiding spent blooms under new growth.  They are heat-tolerant and highly resistant to powdery mildew.  Flowers are up to 3” across on 12-18” plants; they resemble Burpee’s Pinwheel series.  Seeds are widely available.

The American Association of Specialty Cut Flower Growers was equally impressed with two new giant zinnia series, descended from Z. elegans:  Blue Point (Benary’s Giant) and Oklahoma.  These fully-double flowers exhibit bright, uniform colors, sturdy stems with mildew-resistant foliage, and a long vase life.  Blue Point zinnias are truly giants (to 4’), forming 5” blossoms on sturdy stems.  Oklahoma (3’) is very mildew-resistant, with 2” blossoms.

Test gardeners across North America (except southern Florida) gave high ratings to Oklahoma and Blue Point in Organic Gardening [January 1998].  Long-time gardeners in California and New York called Blue Point zinnias “the best we’ve ever grown.”  Blue Point zinnias come in a dozen colors, such as ‘Purple Prince’ and ‘Scarlet Flame’, as well as in a formula mix (contains equal numbers of each color, rather than random assortment).

Testers also gave good ratings to ‘Cherry Vanilla’ and ‘Golddust’ zinnias, part of the Pinwheel series.  OG’s Florida tester singled out ‘Golddust’ as being very tolerant of heat and humidity.

Plenty of Zinnias

Most of the zinnias on the market are derived from Zinnia elegans. These garden zinnias have double or semidouble flowers on stiff stems.  Low-growing garden zinnias (6-18”) bear names that denote tininess: ‘Thumbelina’; ‘Lilliput’; Peter Pan and Lollipop series.

Taller garden zinnias include doubles/semidoubles (Oklahoma and Splendor  hybrid series, ‘Whirligig’, ‘Sunbow Mix’, ‘Cut and Come Again Mix’, ‘Candy Stripe’, and ‘Envy’—a unique chartreuse-green Flower); dahlia-flowered (‘Giant Flowered Mix’, Blue Point/Benary’s Giant and Border Beauty series); cactus-flowered (‘Cactus Flowered Mix’); and scabious-flowered (‘Scabiosaflora Mix’).

If these Dolly Parton blooms aren’t to your taste, consider growing old-fashioned zinnias with single, daisylike flowers.   Start with Zinnia angustifolia (also known as Z. linearis).  This Flower of the Aztecs grows in profusion from June until frost on a bushy, spreading plant about a foot high.  A great container plant, Z. angustifolia is drought-tolerant and mildew-resistant.  Classic Z. angustifolia bears 1” flowers with orange petals around a yellow center.  The Star series offers orange, gold or white flowers.

I’m partial to the coppery tones of Zinnia haageana (syn. Z. mexicana), an easy-care zinnia that performs until frost.  ‘Persian Carpet’ bears 2” double and semidouble flowers in a riot of autumn colors and patterns; plants reach two feet.  Mahogany petals tipped with gold characterize the 2” flowers of ‘Old Mexico’ (mostly double) and ‘Chippendale’ (single); plants are about 18” tall.

I also like the old-fashioned look of Peruvian zinnias (Z. peruviana, syn. Z. pauciflora), a Flower that was favored by Thomas Jefferson.  The 1” single blossoms of ‘Red Peruvian’ fade with age from terra cotta to a soft brick red, perfectly illustrating zinnias' nickname, “Youth and Old Age.”  ‘Yellow Peruvian’ fades to a soft gold; both plants reach about two feet on stiff stems.  Peruvian zinnias may also be marketed as ‘Bonita Red’ or ‘Bonita Yellow’.

Native to the Southwest are two perennial zinnias: desert zinnia (Z. acerosa) and plains zinnia (Z. grandiflora).  Desert zinnia bears 1” white, daisylike flowers on a low, spreading plant.  Narrow leaves are evergreen, making Z. acerosa a good ground cover.  It prefers well-drained soil that is low in organic content.  Plains zinnia, with a similar growth habit, has yellow flowers.  It is more tolerant of cold, but it can be difficult to establish.

Butterflies Make Surprising Choices

Which zinnias are most attractive to butterflies?  Surprisingly, single-flowered, species zinnias aren’t the uncontested favorites.  In eastern Washington, where summers are hot and dry, Patti Ensor found Peruvian zinnias to be moderately attractive to small butterflies, such as skippers.  However, they didn’t hold a candle to the appeal of the large double, ‘Cut and Come Again’.  With its sturdy landing platform, this zinnia was a major attraction for Western Tiger Swallowtails, who lingered to sip nectar.  ‘Cut and Come Again’ blooms from midsummer to frost, in hot shades of pink, yellow, orange and scarlet.

Minnesota gardener Cathy Leece devotes a sizeable Flower bed to zinnias of many shapes and colors.  She has found fritillaries to be the most avid visitors, alternating between the zinnias and swamp milkweed on sunny afternoons.  Last year, Leece planted single-flowered Peruvian zinnias in expectation of fabulous butterfly viewing.  She says, “I was surprised at how much the zinnias branched out and how tall they got.  They filled half the bed, crowding out the other varieties behind them.”

In spite of their enthusiastic growth habit, the Peruvian zinnias did not attract butterflies.  Blue Point Formula Mix and ‘Royal Purple’ [a Blue Point zinnia from Park Seed]  have been the most popular zinnias in Leece’s garden.  In particular, the big purple flowers are a magnet for fritillaries, American Painted Ladies and Eastern Tiger Swallowtails.  Moderately attractive zinnias include giant cactus-flowered, ‘Sunbow Mix’ and Z. angustifolia ‘Crystal White’ [Park Seed’s name for ‘Star White’].  Leece has found that ‘Envy’, scabious-flowered and (to her surprise) Z. haageana ‘Persian Carpet’ have not attracted visiting butterflies.

The Star series of Zinnia angustifolia proved to be most popular in Denise Gibbs’s Maryland garden.  Gibbs says, “‘Star White’ was the best, attracting blues, sulphurs, hairstreaks, skippers, Red Admirals, Painted Ladies and others.  It made a beautiful display, cascading over the edge of a planter on my deck.  ‘Star Gold’ was also attractive, but I saw little activity on ‘Star Orange’.”

Gibbs also grew Zinnia ‘Profusion Orange’ and ‘Profusion Cherry’.  In spite of their single flowers, they did not attract many butterflies.  The very similar Pinwheel series, however, attracted a diversity of species well into October.

Zen on a Stem

At Redbud Farms in rural Michigan, Sharon Baller has plenty of company in the zinnia patch.  Swallowtails, hummingbirds and sphinx moths seek nectar from zinnias and other nearby flowers, such as cleome.  Monarchs make forays from the milkweed in nearby fields, sometimes landing on her shoulder as she works.  Says Baller, “Butterflies love zinnias!  I have even observed hummers attracted to the zins, and the moths flit from Flower to Flower, staying longest on the four o’clocks, petunias and zins.”

Part of the 15-acre farm is left wild for the grass-nesting birds, bees and small animals who also live there.  Pine, spruce, maple, aspen, birch, black cherry and redbud grow in small groves, providing shelter and food for wildlife.  The farm contains many fruit trees and shrubs—a magnet for wildlife—and the Ballers have planted nut trees (hickory, black walnut, butternut, hazelnut) obtained from Michigan Department of Natural Resources' tree/ornamental shrub/wildlife packets, sold in spring and fall.

Baller takes armloads of cut zinnias and seeds to nearby farmers’ markets from midsummer to fall.  Van Dyke Zinnias, a business acquired by the Baller family last year, creates two seed mixes (each offered in various colors) from the many open-pollinated zinnias grown at Redbud.  The Supreme Variety Mix (Zen on a Stem) includes many large dahlia-flowered, cactus-flowered and double zinnias, such as ‘Cut and Come Again’.  The Mini Mix is made up of single, double and pompon zinnias up to two feet tall.

The Ballers plan to offer several other Flower mixes this coming year, including a butterfly garden mix (see nursery list, following).

Growing Zinnias

Zinnias will reward you with bundles of colorful blooms from early summer until frost, provided that you give them rich, loamy soil in a sunny spot.  Don’t overwater; zinnias like hot, dry summers.  Cut frequently to encourage branching and to prolong blooming.  Resist the urge to line plants up singly as an edging; zinnias are more appealing (to us and to butterflies) as an irregular mass of bright colors.  Because each plant forms many side branches, weeds aren’t likely to be too troublesome in the zinnia patch.

Wait until after the last frost to direct-seed in the garden, and then remove the weaker seedlings so that plants are 6-18” apart (depending on plant size).  For continuous blooming, reseed every couple of weeks until midsummer.  If you’re tempted to start seeds indoors under lights, be aware that zinnias dislike root disturbance.   Harden them off gradually by setting flats outdoors for a few hours each day.  Transplant carefully after weather is reliably warm, trying not to expose the roots.  Water the seedlings upon planting but infrequently during summer.  When growth resumes, give them a light application of fertilizer.

The hairy leaves of zinnias are prone to powdery mildew in humid areas and during late summer and fall, when dew is heavy.  Space plants for adequate air circulation and avoid overhead watering, which spreads the mildew spores.  Choose mildew-resistant varieties, such as Blue Point, Oklahoma, Profusion and Pinwheel series.  And remember, no one will notice if you have removed infected leaves before filling a vase with an assortment of festive zinnias.

Magazine Articles:

Lee, Rand B.  “Zinnias.”  The American Cottage Gardener, April 1998, pp. 4-6.
McClure, Susan.  “Rediscovering Zinnias.”  National Gardening, May/June 1999, pp. 49-52, 82.
Meyer, Scott.  “Zinnias!”  Organic Gardening, March 1996, pp. 90-96.
Winterrowd, Wayne.  “Zinnias.”  Horticulture, June/July 1999, pp. 28-30.

Mail-order Nurseries:

W. Atlee Burpee & Co., Warminster, PA 18974.  (800) 888-1447; www.burpee.com
J. L. Hudson, Seedsman, Star Route 2, Box 337, La Honda, CA 94020. $1.
Johnny’s Selected Seeds, 1 Foss Hill Rd., RR 1 Box 2580, Albion, ME 04910-9731. (207) 437-4301; www.johnnyseeds.com
Park Seed Co., 1 Parkton Avenue, Greenwood, SC 29647-0001.  (800) 845-3369; www.parkseed.com
Select Seeds, 180 Stickney Hill Rd., Union, CT 06076-4617.  (860) 684-9310.
Shepherd’s Garden Seeds, 30 Irene St., Torrington,CT 06790-6658. (860) 482-3638; www.shepherdseeds.com
Territorial Seed Company, PO Box 157, Cottage Grove, OR 97424. (541) 942-9547; www.territorial-seed.com
Van Dyke Zinnias @ Redbud Farms, 3820 Stillson Road, Stockbridge, MI 49285.  (517) 851-8194; www.redbudfarms.com

Article by Claire Hagen Dole, Publisher/editor of Butterfly Gardeners' Quarterly. #23, winter 1999-2000.  Issue also includes articles on hairstreaks and Marie Selby Garden (Sarasota, Florida). $2.50 ppd. from BGQ, PO Box 30931, Seattle, WA 98103.

Return to Butterfly Gardeners' Quarterly Index
 

© copyright 1999 by Claire Hagen Dole; all rights reserved.
 

Marigolds: Best Varieties for Butterflies

by Claire Hagen Dole

 

Butterfly Garden Standby

Check a plant list in any butterfly gardening publication and you’re sure to find marigolds, especially French marigold (Tagetes patula). What makes this old-fashioned species so desirable to butterflies?

Compared to pompon-type hybrids, the French marigold remains close to its wild relatives in
Mexico and Central America. A member of the composite family, it has a daisy-like cluster of tubeflowers, surrounded by a single (or double) row of petals. A medium-sized butterfly, such as an American Painted Lady, can comfortably perch and sip nectar from the many florets.

Although a butterfly may be drawn into a garden full of bright orange and yellow hybrids, it won’t
find easy access to nectar in the frilly blooms. Triploids, which are infertile crosses between French and African (T. erecta), are unable to set seed, so they can keep blooming for months. As you might suspect, they have nothing to offer pollinators.

Out of the New World

Should you find yourself in a Mexican village for El Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead,
November 1st), be sure to visit the local cemetery. You’ll see elaborate wreaths, festooned with
orange and gold marigolds, on the gravesites, as families hold candlelight vigils to welcome the souls of departed loved ones.

There are about fifty species of annual or perennial marigolds from the Southwestern U.S. to
Argentina, with most species occurring in Mexico and Central America. Marigolds were taken to
Europe during the sixteenth century by Spanish conquerors. When Huguenot refugees introduced
T. patula to England in 1573, the Flower gained the name of French marigold. Thomas Jefferson
planted French marigolds at Monticello in 1812, and they grow today at Old Sturbridge Village in a recreated nineteenth-century garden.

The equally misleading name of African marigold may refer to the fact that T. erecta, returning with the Spaniards, became naturalized along the North African coast. It was introduced from Africa into France in 1535, when the armies of Emperor Charles V fought in Tunis. Burpee calls this species American marigold.

To further muddy the geographical waters, the genus Tagetes derives from the Etruscan deity,
Tages, grandson of Jupiter, whose specialty was soothsaying.

A Versatile Plant

Used to heat, drought and lean soil, marigolds reward the most casual of gardeners--perhaps a
reason for their enduring popularity. Seeds can be planted outdoors when the soil has warmed, or started indoors and transplanted in early summer. Space seedlings six to twelve inches apart; don’t overwater or you’ll get leggy plants with fewer blooms. Plant in masses to attract butterflies, and deadhead to prolong bloom.

Marigolds are used in household crafts and in cooking. Their flowers can be boiled with alum
mordant to make a vivid yellow dye for wool and silk yarn. The citrus-scented leaves of signet
marigold (T. tenuifolia, also known as T. signata), can be dried for potpourri. Signet marigold’s
tiny, edible flowers brighten salads or decorate a cake.

And Mexican tarragon (T. lucida), also known as mint-scented marigold, Mexican marigold mint
or cloud plant, has aromatic leaves that can be used as a substitute for French tarragon or as a
stimulating tea.

Nematodes, Begone!

It’s as a natural insect repellent, though, that marigolds have gained fame. They’ve long been
interplanted among vegetables and roses to deter whiteflies, aphids and soil nematodes, and to
attract beneficial insects. While their strong smell gets credit for repelling above-ground pests, the
action underground is more complex.

Chemicals in root secretions of marigolds, especially T. patula, make nematodes ineffective by
inhibiting their detection of target plants (such as potato). You may be able to rid the soil of
nematodes by densely planting an area with marigolds, then turning the plants under and letting the soil lie fallow for the rest of the season.

At least a couple of seed companies promote the insecticidal qualities of marigolds. Burpee’s offers T. patula ‘Nema-gone’, a 4’ fast-growing plant with golden flowers. Richters sells Mexican marigold (T. minuta), dubbing it the ‘Weedkiller’. This 6’ plant, which rarely flowers in temperate zones, packs an even greater punch: in addition to its effectiveness against nematodes, mosquitoes and other pests, it has been shown to kill noxious weeds, such as ground elder and bindweed, that are growing close to its roots.

New Introductions

Thanks to the efforts of W. Atlee Burpee’s son, David, marigold offerings have been greatly
expanded during this century. Of the 29 AAS (All-America Selections) medals awarded to
marigolds from 1933-50, fourteen were Burpee introductions, including the still-popular T. patula ‘Naughty Marietta’ (1947).

One of this year’s AAS Bedding Plant Award Winners is T. patula ‘Bonanza Bolero’. Its large
(2-1/4") double flowers are distinctive because of their irregular gold and red pattern, with the red markings on petal tips rather than as vertical stripes. The plant reaches a foot high and up to two feet wide. It is available from Park Seed.

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange offers T. patula ‘Tashkent #1’. During a People-to-People trip to Uzbekistan in 1992, grower Bob Bell collected seed from French marigolds growing next to an old Muslim school. One can only guess how these flowers made their way halfway around the world, to grow in obscurity until an heirloom aficionado appeared! ‘Tashkent #1’ is said to be
unusually fragrant, with numerous single-petalled flowers (to 2" across) that are velvet mahogany
with a fine orange border and yellow center. As petals mature, they change from mahogany to
orange-red. The plant grows to 16", with dense, deep-green foliage.

‘Pesche’s Gold’ is an intriguing selection of the usually-hybridized African marigold, new this year
from Seeds of Change. Single golden petals are lightly ruffled along the edges; blooms are large
(2-1/2") on stocky, broad-leaved plants (to 2’). The Seeds of Change catalog notes a strikingly
similar offering (now unavailable) in a 1918 British catalog, Sutton’s Seeds.

Marigold Choices for a Butterfly Garden

Tagetes lemmonii (mountain marigold). Bushy perennial (to 3’), native to S. Ariz. canyons.
Clusters of 1" yellow flowers from Sept.-Mar. Attracts butterflies, but strong, unpleasant odor
discourages browsers. However, Mountain Valley Growers calls its scent tangerine or lemon-mint.

T. lucida (Mexican tarragon). Tender perennial from Mexico. Small gold flowers on anise-scented, toothed foliage; to 3’. Blooms in fall. Leaves used as seasoning or tea.

T. patula (French marigold). The premiere marigold for butterfly gardens. Annual from Mexico.
Single or double petals (to 2-1/2") of golden, dark orange and brick red. Many selections, often
with striped petals (‘Mr. Majestic’, ‘Striped Marvel’). Height 10"-24"; two 4’ selections offered by Seeds of Change.

T. tenuifolia (signet marigold). Also known as T. signata. Annual from Mexico. Dwarf (8"-12")
with many tiny flowers and citrus-scented foliage. Not day-length sensitive so blooms well into fall.  Great container plant. Look for ‘Lemon Gem’, ‘Orange Gem’ and ‘Paprika’.

Mail-order Nurseries:

Burpee Seeds, Warminster, PA 18974. (800) 888-1447; www.burpee.com. Free catalog.
Mountain Valley Growers, Inc., 38325 Pepperweed Road, Squaw Valley, CA 93675. (559)
338-2775; www.mountainvalleygrowers.com. Free.
Park Seed, 1 Parkton Ave., Greenwood, SC 29647-0001. (800) 845-3369;
www.parkseed.com. Free; ask for Flower/vegetable catalog.
Richters, Goodwood, ON, Canada L0C 1A0. (905) 640-6677; www.richters.com. Free.
Seeds of Change, PO Box 15700, Santa Fe, NM 87506-5700. (888) 762-7333;
www.seedsofchange.com. Free.
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, PO Box 170, Earlysville, VA 22936. (804) 973-4703;
www.southernexposure.com. $2.
Thompson & Morgan Inc., PO Box 1308, Jackson, NJ 08527-0308. (800) 274-7333;
www.thompson-morgan.com. Free.
 
 

Article by Claire Hagen Dole, Publisher/editor of Butterfly Gardeners' Quarterly. #20, Spring
1999. Issue also includes "Photographing Butterflies and Flowers". $2.50 ppd. from BGQ, PO
Box 30931, Seattle, WA 98103.
 
 

Return to Butterfly Gardeners' Quarterly Index

© copyright 1999 by Claire Hagen Dole; all rights reserved.
 

 

Converting a Traditional Yard to a Wildlife Habitat

by Claire Hagen Dole

 

The huge old rhododendron, with its weed-trapping fibrous roots, had to go. It occupied a sunny
backyard site that was perfect for a butterfly garden. After many hours of pruning, digging, and
finally whacking the trunk with a sledgehammer to dislodge it, I gazed at the spot. What
possibilities!

Within a few short years, a thriving wildlife habitat has evolved in its space. A small pond is home
to Pacific tree frogs and a host of fascinating creatures like damselfly nymphs and freshwater
shrimp. Behind the pond, burrowing insects work over a rotting log, its hollow edges bordered by iris and speedwell. The tangle of flowers and grasses in this wild garden gives shelter to birds and frogs seeking an insect meal.

Such a gratifying garden transition didn't stop there, of course. The butterfly garden began to
expand sideways in the Flower bed, which is bordered by a fence behind and concrete driveway in front. This seldom-used drivewaytwo narrow strips which lead into the basement garage of my
1929 house separates the butterfly Flower bed from a fruit/vegetable/herb garden and small lawn.

Flush with the success of my wildlife garden, I looked across this concrete divide at raspberries and chives in bloom. That long ribbon of lawn between driveway strips had to go! In its place,
low-growing herbs and strawberries now create a visual connection between gardens. Lavender,
thyme and oregano buzz with bees all summer; skippers are abundant in fall. Bumblebees made a
nest in the pile of decomposing turf, giving the undesired grass its greatest wildlife value in sixty-plus years of existence.

The new herb planting bridged a distance of mere feet between gardens, but it signifies an important addition to the wildlife garden: safe corridor for travel. I'm always pleased to hear throaty croaks from the brush pile by the alley, indicating that a frog has crossed the driveway safely.

What's next? Big changes in the front yard, with its parking strip re-do and gradual inclusion of
more native plants, especially berry-producing shrubs.

Make a Plan

My seat-of-the-pants gardening style is probably typical of many gardeners with established
plantings. A little long-range planning, though, can result in a wildlife habitat that is perfect for your site.

Wildlife experts recommend spending a year observing your yard, gathering resource information and creating a scale drawing to try out design ideas. My front-yard project actually followed the one-year rule, but for logistical reasons that had to do with approaching winter. When I finally
broke ground last fall, I'd refined my design and located a great native plant source.

What observations should you be making on your property? List your major trees and shrubs;
evaluate their location and benefit to wildlife (remember that evergreens provide winter shelter for
birds, as well as cones/berries). Keep a record of wildlife sightings during the year, both in your
neighborhood and in nearby parks, where native plant communities may be found.

Evaluate microclimates and soil (this needn't include a soil test; most likely you know the conditions of your yard). Then listen to Ken Druse, author of The Natural Habitat Garden: Don't fight the site.

This sentiment is echoed by Sara Stein in Planting Noah's Garden, when she advises not to
correct soil deficiencies. She writes, The right choice of vegetation will do well under existing
conditions and in time improve them. The key is to emphasize use of native plants and to put them
in the right spot for healthy growth.

A problem spot in the garden is often an opportunity for wild gardening. A poorly drained, soggy
corner could be the ideal spot for a bog garden. And that sparse, weedy patch of lawn might do
better as a colorful wildflower meadow, its flowers perfectly adapted to nutrient-poor soil.

If you're hesitant to remove lawn, start with an island of wildflowers, including some tall composites like aster, goldenrod and coneflowerall highly attractive to beneficial insects. Native clump-forming grasses will feed and shelter skippers, wood nymphs, satyrs and ringlets.

Gather resources (see book list); connect with local native-plant and wildlife groups. Take guided
nature walks to learn about local flora and fauna. Spend winter months poring over plant/seed
catalogs, especially those of regional native-plant nurseries.

And create a scale drawing of your lot, however rough and sketchy. Map existing plantings,
traffic patterns, wind, sunlight, views. It can be useful to include features of neighboring properties: trees, view or annoyance such as traffic noise (which might be alleviated by constructing a berm of plants). Get some crayons and have fun experimenting on tissue-paper overlays with plant groupings, paths, and activity areas. Take before pictures; make photocopy enlargements and draw on them.

Basic Needs of Wildlife

Even a small yard can provide the wildlife basics of food, water, shelter and space.

Butterflies, birds, mice, snakes and countless other animals are drawn to the space where habitats
overlap: a clearing in the woods, a hedgerow through fields. This edge is where everything
happens--feeding, mating, sheltering young. It's wildlife theatre at its best.

You can maximize the edge effect by creating irregular borders and curving paths that complement or mimic natural terrain. You may want to remove some existing paths to provide more cover for wildlife. My narrow back yard, split by its driveway, doesn't offer much design leeway. I did inject a curve, however, where lawn and blueberry patch meet. I also removed a strip of lawn to deepen the Flower bed, which is densely planted with perennials and shrubs.

Stone pathways and patios, with spaces between pavers for creeping thyme or small flowers like
alyssum, multiply edges by a hundredfold. Peek under the ground cover and observe a beetle's
paradise! As you know if you've tried to weed between bricks or tightly-set pavers, it's helpful to
leave wider spaces for easier weeding.

The sunlit clearing along this edge is an important space for butterflies. Patrolling males will spend
hours at vegetation's edge, darting into the clearing to chase away intruders or to initiate mating with a passing female. A mating pair may spiral upwards in a courtship dance. Even more spectacular is the mating display of many male hummingbirds, who repeatedly dive from heights of fifty feet or more.

Whether in a bird bath or in a mud puddle, water is an integral part of the wildlife garden. Moving water is even bettertrickling over a rock or forming a fine mist that is irresistible to hummingbirds.  Male swallowtails and blues are particularly attracted to mineral-rich wet sand or dirt. If neighborhood cats are a problem, get the butterflies off the ground by putting wet sand in a
birdbath.

It should be obvious to the wildlife gardener that pesticides and herbicides have no place in the
garden. New converts to wildlife gardening may need patience while a balance between pests and predators develops. According to Charlotte Seidenberg (The Wildlife Garden), predators and parasites don't show up until the pest is numerous enough to attract them. Over time, there will be cycles of pest and predator abundance. It may be difficult to achieve a balance in an isolated urban garden.

You can tip the balance by including native plants that attract beneficial insects. Seidenberg writes, "The patch of my garden that, to me, epitomizes the concept of the wildlife garden, is the one planted with indigenous members of the composite, mint, lobelia, and dayflower families. On sunny days from spring to late fall it is absolutely teeming with life. If I stand quietly by blooming
goldenrod and wild ageratum, I see nature's miniature version of The Young and the Restless, with dramas more intense and infinitely more complex and interesting!"

Plant Choices

A diversity of plants generates a diversity of wildlife. Vary plant heights, from ground cover to
understory to tree canopy. Focus on native plants to foster native birds and insects rather than
opportunists like starlings. Larval host plants are the key to attracting and keeping butterflies in the neighborhood; check a local guidebook for host-plant choices.

Plant large trees along the property line, where they will form the forest canopy. If there are
wildlife-friendly trees across the fence, consider extending the grove in your yard. Imagine the
shade that will be cast by full-grown trees; leave gaps for sunny clearings and to create a flyway
that will bring wandering butterflies to your yard searching for nectar and host plants.

In Gardening for Wildlife, Craig Tufts and Peter Loewer suggest underplanting existing shade
trees with smaller trees such as evergreens, maple, birch, serviceberry, dogwood and redbud.
Space them so that their canopies will overlap slightly at maturity.

Should you remove a mature tree to make room for a native species or a different garden layout?
Seidenberg cautions that it will take many years for a young tree to equal the wildlife value of a
large tree, even if a less appropriate species. Mature trees attract bark-boring insects,
woodpeckers and sapsuckers. Sapsuckers, in turn, have their own following: Mourning Cloaks and anglewings seeking sap, and hummingbirds looking for other insects drawn to the sap.

On the other hand, don't be sentimental about removing a tree or shrub that absolutely has to go!  If removal of the stump is prohibitively difficult, leave it to rot gradually (unless it's prone to sucker growth, like a fruit tree or a lilac bush). Put a bird bath or potted plant on the stump, even a sundial.  Eventually the stump will sprout ferns and interesting fungi.

A dying tree can be turned into that most valuable habitat, a snag. Prune for safety; if desired, girdle the trunk to hasten the process (cut away a horizontal strip of bark around the trunk).

Can't decide whether to remove a tree? Leave it standing during the yard re-do, then evaluate it
against a less cluttered background. It will either stand out like a sore thumb, or it will suggest a
new planting scheme.

If you've been clipping shrubs into tight circles and squares, retire those shears! Pruning into
unnatural shapes removes blossoms and berries, and the resulting dense growth makes access
difficult for birds. Gradually allow the shrub to regain its natural appearance, pruning selectively for shape.

A tightly-managed hedge might be converted to a hedgerow, depending on species. However, the greatest wildlife value is offered by a hedgerow of varied plantings, emphasizing those that produce berries and are somewhat brambly for shelter.

It's important to remember that a plant like non-native holly can invade a wide area when its seeds are dispersed by birds. Consider replacing with natives like serviceberry and ceanothus.

During summer months, deadhead flowers to prolong blooming and nectar production for
butterflies. When blooms begin to decline, stop deadheading and leave seed heads for birds to
forage in winter.

Other Enhancements

Sun-warmed rocks, along a pathway or built into a rock wall, make great basking spots for
cold-blooded butterflies. A rock wall, left unmortared, provides many nooks and crannies for
insects and amphibians. A pile of rocks over a shallow hole in the ground makes a perfect toad
house.

Brush piles and woodpiles are home to many insects, amphibians and small mammals. If you're
bothered by appearance, grow a hummingbird-pleasing vine like trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera
sempervirens) over the pile. Or grow hops (Humulus lupulus), a larval plant for anglewings, Red Admirals, Gray Hairstreaks, Mourning Cloaks and Spring Azures. And don't forget a patch of nettles behind the brushpile, to attract anglewings and Red Admirals.

Lawn, Begone!

With all the great ideas you've assembled for your wildlife habitat, you may be wishing for more
space. Unless you've already espoused xeriscaping (landscaping with drought-tolerant plants), you probably have more lawn than you need for the occasional croquet game.

Picture this: a summer weekend lazing in the hammock, surrounded by chirping birds and fluttering swallowtails, while your children play in the meadow and watch tadpoles in the pond. Now, ready to dig up that turf?

Stevie Daniels (The Wild Lawn Handbook) lists three options for lawn removal: smothering,
removing mechanically, and chemical (a glyphosate-based herbicide such as Roundup--not
recommended by Daniels or by other wildlife gardeners).

Smother the turf with newspaper (about 20 sheets thick) that is covered with a layer of bark or mulch. With this method, you can dig planting holes for new perennials, shrubs and trees.  Loosen compacted soil around the planting hole, but use your soil rather than a planting mix for best long-term growth. Another option is to build a raised bed over the grass.

If you live in a new subdivision, it's likely that your lawn was installed over ground scraped bare of topsoil. Smother the lawn with newspaper and mulch, amended with organic matter or clean
topsoil. Don't bring in fill dirt whose background is unknown; it may contain undesirable weed
seeds, even toxic chemicals. Go gently on fertilizer use; overfertilizing kills beneficial microorganisms and drives away earthworms.

Turf removal calls for a sodcutter or a shovel and a strong back. The sodcutter, available for rental, removes strips that can be rolled up and composted. The strips can be piled to make a landscaping berm, then covered with soil or bark.

My method of digging edged squares of turf is admittedly labor-intensive, but I wanted to remove
taprooted weeds like dandelions (which are numerous in back, where they provide nectar and
finch-approved seeds). After digging squares, I shake out as much dirt as possible, then pile them
upside-down, uncovered. The resulting compost (six months to a year) is rich and crumbly.

Craig Tufts (The Backyard Naturalist) also uses the strong-back method, but he turns squares
upside-down in place, sprinkles with granular lime, then adds 2-3" of soil, 1" of compost and 3" of bark mulch.

Here's another benefit of lawn reduction--no more raking of leaves! In fact, you'll want to let them decompose in place, to add a soft layer of mulch where skippers and moths will pupate over the winter. Leaves can be shredded (look for insects first!) by running a lawn mower over them.

Meandering

What's the payoff for all the research and hard work? In The Backyard Naturalist, Tufts sums up the end result: "Yard patrol is one of my gardening joys. Armed with binoculars for spying on the avian and lepidopteran denizens of my quarter acre, I spend hours meandering: checking out the shadbush crop, looking for the monarch eggs on milkweeds, verifying that first mourning warbler back in the scrubby tangle that marks the property line."

Doesn't that sound like more fun than pushing a power mower?

Publications:

Alcock, John. In a Desert Garden. W.W. Norton & Company, 1997.
Daniels, Stevie. The Wild Lawn Handbook. Macmillan, 1995.
Druse, Ken. The Natural Habitat Garden. Clarkson Potter, 1994.
Ernst, Ruth Shaw. The Naturalist's Garden. Globe Pequot Press, 1993.
Harper, Peter. The Natural Garden Book. Simon & Schuster, 1994.
Knopf, Jim et al. Natural Gardening. The Nature Company/Time Life Books, 1995.
Nature's Gardens. Better Homes and Gardens, 1995.
Schneck, Marcus. Your Backyard Wildlife Garden. Rodale Press, 1992.
Seidenberg, Charlotte. The Wildlife Garden. University Press of Mississippi, 1995.
Stein, Sara. Noah's Garden. Houghton Mifflin Company, 1993.
______. Planting Noah's Garden. Houghton Mifflin Company, 1997.
Stevenson, Violet. The Wild Garden. Penguin Books, 1985.
Tufts, Craig. The Backyard Naturalist. National Wildlife Federation, 1993.
Tufts, Craig and Peter Loewer. Gardening for Wildlife. Rodale Press, 1995.
Wild Ones Handbook. Natural landscaping resource booklet published by The Wild Ones, P.O.
Box 23576, Milwaukee, WI 53223-0576. $7.

Backyard Wildlife Habitat Program:
National Wildlife Federation, 8925 Leesburg Pike, Vienna, VA 22184-0001. (703) 790-4434;
www.nwf.org/habitats. $12.95 for yard certification kit; includes The Backyard Naturalist. (410)
516-6583 to charge order.
 

Article by Claire Hagen Dole, Publisher/editor of Butterfly Gardeners' Quarterly. #16, spring 1998.  Issue also includes articles "Wild Gardening, the Spirit of Place" and "A Place for Something Wild". $2 ppd. from BGQ, PO Box 30931, Seattle, WA 98103.
 

Return to Butterfly Gardeners' Quarterly Index

© copyright 1998 by Claire Hagen Dole; all rights reserved.
 

Herb Gardens for Butterflies

by Claire Hagen Dole

 

In a modest neighborhood under the Sea-Tac flyway, Janice Peltier's nursery, Herban Renewal,
sends bursts of color and exuberant foliage sprawling out to the parking strip. Six-foot fennel
brushes the mailbox, its fronds be-decked with green and yellow Anise Swallowtail caterpillars.

As I walk through the gate, I feel as if I've discovered a secret garden of flowers and herbs, buzzing with bumblebees, honeybees and hummingbirds, fluttering with butterflies' wings. Curving paths and herb beds fill the space once taken by a circular driveway. Western Tiger Swallowtails and Lorquin's Admirals glide among rose campion and opium poppy. Later in the summer, skippers will mob the border of lavender. When it's time to harvest the blossoms, they'll move to the nearby flowering oregano.

While Peltier didn't set out to attract butterflies, she was quick to notice that her yard's abundance of nectar-rich herbs and flowers drew in bees and butterflies by the score. An expert on medicinal plants, she gives lectures and garden tours on that topic. Lately she's expanded her outreach to include butterfly gardening. "I'm always learning something new about butterflies," she says. "It's
very true that if you plant it, they will come." [Herban Renewal, 10437 19th Ave. S.W., Seattle,
WA 98146; (206) 243-8821. By appointment only.]

Herb Garden Mystique

Are you fascinated by the history and lore of herb gardens? With choices like medieval monastic
gardens, Elizabethan knot gardens, cottage gardens, Colonial physic gardens, Chinese medicinal
gardens, and kitchen gardens, you could landscape several yards and barely make a dent in the pile of books written about herbs.

The truth is, butterflies don't care how you approach herb gardening, so long as you set out their
favorite nectar and larval plants. And as I've discovered on my tiny parcel of land, a bit of creative mixing can be attractive and enjoyable. Then, too, you get to spend hours explaining the history and uses of each herb to your unwary acquaintances.

Herbs are enjoying renewed popularity as xeriscaping (drought-tolerant gardening) takes hold,
especially in the arid Southwest. They're tough customers, used to the spare soil and dry heat of the Mediterranean region, where many originated. They'll also do well in cooler, wetter climes,
although they may die back in winter.

And what a knockout visually! Picture the textures and colors of spiky lavender spilling over a
pathway, the stone crevices softened by creeping thyme. How about the dense green foliage of
rosemary, with its tiny blue blossoms, or ferny yarrow with its fat clusters of red or cream
blossoms? Why would anyone prefer a lackluster lawn or a tangle of juniper tams?

Bees, butterflies, and a host of beneficial insects make their preference abundantly clear: they flock to a rich habitat of herbs, flowers and grasses, while ignoring conventional lawns and shrubs (which may offer little as nectar or larval host plants and which may contain pesticides).

Design Considerations

While bees and butterflies don't object to a jumble of plants, you'll be happier with an herb garden that has been thoughtfully planned. Consider, along with your own personal style and plant
preferences, a pleasing combination of plant sizes, colors, textures, and seasons of bloom.

In The Herb Gardener [Garden Way, 1996, $29.95], Susan McClure suggests sticking with a
color scheme of two or three main colors, then picking a contrasting foliage for background. For
example, set silver artemesia behind purple- and pink-flowering sages. Or try bronze fennel behind the red blossoms of pineapple sage. Give variegated-leaf sage a plain backdrop like the deep green of sweet basil.

Leaf and Flower texture are an important design element, too. The fine leaves of thyme can soften
nearby coarse foliage, but too much fine texture can look fussy. Medium-textured leaves like basil fill a space nicely, but are boring in excess. And use a coarse-leaved plant like angelica sparingly, as an accent.

Coordinating seasonal blooms does more than provide you with a constant show from spring to
fall. Beneficial insects depend on the nectar these blooms provide. In return, they'll help to keep
your garden pest-free. A chart in The Herb Gardener helps you to plan a sequence of blooms,
from lamb's ears and violets in spring, to beebalm and lavender in summer, to pineapple sage and
garlic chives in fall.

Growing Herbs

There's another reason to choose herbs, and it has vast appeal for beginning gardeners: herbs are
easy to grow. Some, like mint or the shameless self-seeders borage and lemon balm, are so easy
that you may have a hard time keeping them in check! Perennials like rosemary, once established,
need minimal care beyond a yearly clipping (after blossoming). Should they grow too large, prune
back hard.

A brick or stone pathway sets off herbs and provides countless niches for creeping thyme,
chamomile and other low growers. Butterflies use the sunny stones as basking spots, creating
beautiful photo opportunities for you! Make sure your path is wide enough to let lavender and other plants droop over the edge.

The "soft and fuzzy" approach to butterfly gardening applies well to herbs. Control your urge to
control nature! For example, a classic herb garden feature is a clipped hedge. Often created from
boxwood shrubs, a hedge or border can also be made of plants like rosemary, santolina, lavender, or germander (stick to one plant for a sense of unity). Instead of pruning fastidiously, let the hedge soften and bloom to attract butterflies and bees; cut back in late summer.

In her delightful book, The Herb Garden [Francis Lincoln Ltd., 1984], Sarah Garland states that
"all herb gardens make wonderful feeding grounds for bees and butterflies as herbs are usually
highly scented, rich in nectar and closer to their wild forms than many scentless and hybridized
garden plants."

Which Variety?

Are certain varieties of popular herbs like oregano more attractive to butterflies than others?
According to Jim Becker, owner of Goodwin Creek Gardens in Williams, Oregon, you'll generally do better with ornamental than with culinary varieties. He points to the purple flowers of wild marjoram (Origanum vulgare) as an irresistible nectar source. Two other purple oreganos,
Origanum laevigatum 'Hopley's' and 'Herrenhausen,' are especially attractive to skippers and
whites. A butterfly-pleasing oregano for hedges is Origanum vulgare 'Aureum,' with its golden
leaves and pink flowers.

You could build your entire herb garden around sage because there are hundreds of varieties, from annuals to biennials to tender or hardy perennials. Salvia coccinea, with its tubular red flowers, will appeal more to hummingbirds, but other red varieties will bring in butterflies: cherry sage (Salvia greggi), pineapple sage (S. rutilans), honeydew melon sage (S. elegans), and the annual variety, scarlet sage (S. splendens). Tall, blue-flowered sages for butterflies include Mexican bush sage (S. leucantha), blue sage (S. Clevelandii), bog sage (S. uliginosa), and anise-scented sage (S. guaranitica).

Nurseries are apt to offer a dazzling assortment of lavenders, too, because the plant is so popular.  While I confess a fondness for the showy Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas), I have to admit that the more traditional English lavender (L. angustifolia) seems to attract more butterflies. A Massachusetts gardener credits a new patch of lavender with bringing Gray Hairstreaks into his garden for the first time. The butterflies, which have probably found a nearby host plant, seem to prefer the lavender's nectar almost exclusively.

Creeping thyme (Thymus pseudolanguinosus) makes a lush groundcover; its purple blossoms are beloved by butterflies. Don't be put off by its tongue-twisting Latin name; most thymes are
attractive to bees and generalist butterflies like skippers.

Cilantro (also known as coriander) offers you a management choice-grow in the shade and keep
trimmed to harvest its delicious leaves, or let it Flower in the sun to produce its aromatic seeds.
While it's flowering, it will be covered with butterflies, bees and many beneficial insects like wasps.

Native Herbs

Look for herbs that are native to North America, like mountain mint (Pycnanthemum spp.) or
dotted mint (Monarda punctata). Nectar of this Midwestern beebalm is favored by the Karner
Blue, an endangered butterfly. Other beebalms to try are wild bergamot (M. fistulosa), lemon mint (M. citriodora), plains beebalm (M. pectinata), and Oswego tea (M. didyma). This species has been bred into the varieties that are commonly sold in nurseries, including 'Cambridge Scarlet,' 'Gardenview Scarlet,' 'Croftway Pink,' and 'Marshall's Delight' (which is mildew-resistant).

While beebalm is often mentioned in butterfly-garden plant lists, its appeal may be stronger for
hummingbirds. But at Well-Sweep Herb Farm in Port Murray, New Jersey, Louise Hyde sees
plenty of butterflies on Monarda, with a preference for brightly colored varieties of M. didyma.

To reduce mildew problems, give each plant space for air circulation, and thin out stalks. It's an
enthusiastic spreader, so divide in the fall and share with friends.

Controversial Plants

Another questionable butterfly plant is hyssop. Last year, a lively discussion of its merits took place on the Internet. Unfortunately, most participants didn't clarify which hyssop they were critiquing: true hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) or anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), which is neither anise nor hyssop. It's fragrant and attractive, though, and both plants attract bees and some butterflies.

If cats abound in your neighborhood, you've probably given up on raising catnip (Nepeta cataria).  However, two butterfly pleasers are giant catmint (Nepeta sibirica) and Six Hills Giant Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii). Cats and butterflies also enjoy true valerian (Valeriana officinalis). It's worth noting that a cat-attracting plant (cat thyme, Teucrium marum, is another) will impact populations of birds, frogs, ground beetles, and other wildlife.

Larval Plants

As you'll see from the larval plant list, Black and Anise Swallowtails are herb aficionados, so long
as the herb hails from the Umbelliferae family (characterized by plants with large Flower heads made up of separate blossoms). Their caterpillars are attractive, in stripes and spots of green, black and yellow. Plant extra dill, fennel, or parsley to feed them, and you may be rewarded with a stunning population of black and yellow swallowtails. Lovage will also serve as a host plant, while rue may attract the Black or Giant Swallowtail. Handle rue carefully; oils in the plant can burn sensitive skin.

Rub your fingers against a curry plant (Helichrysum angustifolium), and you're bound to want
one for your garden. While the plant isn't used to make the culinary spice, its fragrance is a dead
ringer for curry. Its silver foliage contrasts nicely to its tiny mustard-colored flowers.

Virginia writer Jeanne Hart Pettersen tells of carrying a twig of curry plant to a garden lecture and
finding a Painted Lady caterpillar on it. The spiky, red, black and yellow-striped caterpillar was the hit of the talk! Pettersen's booklet, Gardening for Butterflies in Hampton Roads, contains a wealth of plant information [$4.50 ppd.; Plants with a Purpose, P.O. Box 2884, Chesapeake, VA 23327-1686].

Herb Garden Maintenance

What care should you give an herb garden in the autumn? If you've grown your annuals in a
separate area, remove dead plants (save seeds for next year) and put in a cover crop like clover to enrich the soil over the winter. Or plant bulbs of garlic and saffron (Crocus sativus), or seeds of parsley, dill, caraway, sweet cicely, and mustard. These seeds will germinate better when subjected to winter's freezes and thaws than when they are spring-planted.

Do some judicious weeding and divide hardy perennials. Woody shrubs like rosemary can be
trimmed and covered with burlap for protection from heavy snow. An airy mulch of pine boughs
will help to protect tender herbs; pull it back on warm winter days to make sure some critter isn't
dining in the comfort of a warm home.

Your own aesthetic will dictate how much you trim and tidy up. But consider the words of Violet
Stevenson in The Wild Garden [Penguin, 1985]: "With the exotic lavender and marjoram growing near the house or in the butterfly border, you will be able to enjoy the antics of goldfinches, house finches and chickadees as they walk the stalks to collect the oil-rich seeds. Such species as fennel, sweet cicely, parsley and chervil will be visited time and time again during the lean months until only the skeleton ribs of the umbels remain silhouetted against the winter sky."

Larval plants (butterfly species noted):

Achillea millefolium (yarrow). Painted Lady
Anethum graveolens (dill). Black Swallowtail; Anise Swallowtail
Angelica spp. Black Swallowtail; Anise Swallowtail
Artemesia absinthium (wormwood). Painted Lady
Artemesia dracunculus 'sativa' (French tarragon). Oregon Swallowtail
Borago officinalis (borage). Painted Lady
Carum carvi (caraway). Black Swallowtail; Anise Swallowtail
Dictamnus spp. (gas plant). Giant Swallowtail
Foeniculum vulgare (fennel). Black Swallowtail; Anise Swallowtail
Glycyrrhiza spp. (licorice). Silver Spotted Skipper
Helichrysum angustifolium (curry plant). Painted Lady
Humulus lupulus (hops). Gray Hairstreak; Comma; Question Mark; Red Admiral
Levisticum officinale (lovage). Black Swallowtail; Anise Swallowtail
Melissa officinalis (lemon balm). White Peacock
Mentha spp. (mint). White Peacock, Painted Lady
Petroselinum crispum (parsley). Black Swallowtail; Anise Swallowtail
Pimpinella anisum (anise). Black Swallowtail; Anise Swallowtail
Ruta graveolens (rue). Black Swallowtail; Giant Swallowtail. Warning: oils can burn sensitive
skin; wear gloves when handling.
Salvia spp. (sage). Gray Hairstreak; Painted Lady; West Coast Lady
Symphytum officinale (comfrey). Painted Lady
Tanacetum vulgare (tansy). Painted Lady
Tropaeolum majus (nasturtium). Cabbage white
Viola odorata (sweet violet). Fritillaries

Nectar plants:

Achillea millefolium (yarrow)
Agastache foeniculum (anise hyssop)
Allium schoenoprasum (chives)
Angelica spp. (angelica)
Chamaemelum nobile (chamomile)
Coriandrum sativum (cilantro)
Heliotropum arborescens (heliotrope)
Hyssopus officinalis (hyssop)
Inula helenium (elecampane)
Lavandula spp. (lavender)
Melissa officinalis (lemon balm)
Mentha pulegium (English pennyroyal)
Mentha spp. (mint)
Monarda didyma (beebalm)
Monarda punctata (spotted mint)
Myrrhis odorata (sweet cicely)
Nepeta spp. (catmint)
Ocimum basilicum (basil)
Origanum laevigatum (oregano)
Origanum majorana (marjoram)
Prunella vulgaris (selfheal)
Pycnanthemum spp. (mountain mint)
Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary)
Salvia spp. (sage)
Santolina spp. (lavender cotton)
Saponaria officinalis (soapwort)
Satureja hortensis (summer savory)
Scuttelaria laterifolia (skullcap)
Tagetes spp. (marigold)
Taraxacum officinale (dandelion)
Teucrium spp. (germander)
Thymus spp. (thyme)
Trachelium caeruleum (throatwort)
Tropaeolum majus (nasturtium)
Tussilago farfara (coltsfoot)
Valeriana officinalis (true valerian)

Plant/Seed Catalogs:

Companion Plants, 7247 N. Coolville Ridge Road, Athens, OH 45701. Free; plants/seeds.
Dabney Herbs, P.O. Box 22061, Louisville, KY 40252. $2; plants/seeds.
The Flowery Branch, P.O. Box 1330, Flowery Branch, GA 30542. $3; seeds.
Goodwin Creek Gardens, P.O. Box 83, Williams, OR 97544. $2; plants/seeds.
The Herbfarm, 32804 Issaquah-Fall City Road, Fall City, WA 98024. Free; plants/seeds. E-mail:
Herbordr@AOL.com.
Johnny's Selected Seeds, Foss Hill Road, Albion, ME 04910-9731. Free; seeds.
Mountain Valley Growers, Inc., 38325 Pepperweed Rd., Squaw Valley, CA 93675. Free; plants.
Richters, Goodwood, Ontario, Canada L0C 1A0. Free; plants/seeds. E-mail:
catalog@richters.com. Website: http://www.richters.com.
Sandy Mush Herb Nursery-BQ, 316 Surrett Cove Road, Leicester, NC 28748-9622. $4 (deduct from order); plants/seeds.
Well-Sweep Herb Farm, 205 Mt. Bethel Rd., Port Murray, NJ 07865. $2; plants/seeds.
 
 

Article by Claire Hagen Dole, Publisher/editor of Butterfly Gardeners' Quarterly. #10, Fall 1996.  Issue also includes "Skippers: Late Summer Gold". $2 ppd. from BGQ, PO Box 30931, Seattle, WA 98103.
 

Return to Butterfly Gardeners' Quarterly Index
 

© copyright 1998 by Claire Hagen Dole; all rights reserved.
 

Butterflies Found in Other Countries

Back Garden Moths	This site is designed to encourage the awareness and study of UK macro moths within their local habitats.
Butterflies and Moths in the Netherlands	Lists and pictures of butterflies and moths they have encountered, studied and photographed so far in Zoetermeer, The Netherlands.
Butterflies and Moths of Belize	These pages is part of a larger site on the biodiversity of Belize. The species lists provide a checklist to all butterflies (and some moth families) of Belize. Other pages give information on butterfly-plant relationships and general ecology.
Butterflies from France & French Guyana	Identification of a large number of butterflies.
Butterfly Photography in Norway	Photos of Norwegian butterflies in their natural surroundings. Scientifically classified.
Butterflies of Ireland	This guide to the Butterflies of Ireland is divided into four family groups of butterflies containing brief details of all of the species of that group that are found in Ireland.
Butterflies of Poland	Describes all butterfly species from Poland. Most species are illustrated by author and other people. Available in Polish and partially in English and German.
Butterflies of Serbia	Full list of butterfly species living in Serbia, divided into families. 1 picture available for roughly 1/2 of species.
Butterfly Watching in Ontario	Designed by Gord Gallant to help butterfly watchers in Ontario.
Captain's European Butterfly Guide	Destinations within Europe for seeing butterflies. Now including checklists for all European countries.
Derbyshire Butterflies	This site has been created to illustrate the wide diversity of butterfly species that can be found in the rolling hills of Derbyshire.
Hants Moths	Images, information and distribution maps for the moths of Hampshire, England.
Matt's European Butterflies	Many European Butterflies are shown with a discussion and photographs of each species. Matt aims to show the beauty and variety and the depth of enjoyment from the challenges of finding, filming and identifying them
Moths and Butterflies of Europe	This website provides a gigantic collection of European moth, butterfly and caterpillar pictures as well as info on their foodplants, breeding, and life cycles. Sorted by scientific names. Highly recommended!
Offwell Butterfly Page	From the Offwell Woodland & Wildlife Trust, lots of pictures of butterflies found in the British Countryside.
Peter Eeles British Butterfly Website	An educational site containing information and photos of all of British Butterflies.
Yale Peabody Museum: Entomology	Entomology The Lepidoptera Listserver (LEPS-L).